Do you have a video on the 150PEB ?? (did the Diaphragm assembly & Selonoeid replacement) and have a drip (earlier spray) where the adapter for the selonoed meets the bonnet.. What's with the two (2) slots on the nut portion of this bushing ??? if they were not there i don't think i'd be my drips .. Thanks in advance ..
Hi John, thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have a vid for the PEB. They're very rare in my area, so I'm not really familiar with them. I'm not sure about this one, but one of the valves doesn't actually need the adapter below the solenoid. I'm not sure about the two slots. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one. It's possible that the bonnet is cracked, you might have to cut the valve out and replace it.
Found the error of my ways ... by reading the instructions and finding a grommet/ O-ring that was for the selonoid to bonnet adapter (came with Selonoid Assembly)@@Proirrigationtraining
I'm betting that the picture on the Amazon listing is actually of a 2" model. The listing specifically says it's for a 1" product, but pretty sure its the wrong picture.
I find the flow too high for the thread diameter, is it common to use a reduction coupling ? By the way, a little tip. I have an old one that was working fine, but I decided to open it up for cleaning... It started leaking between the bonnet and body after that and I opened and closed it up many times trying to figure out what it was. There are some spurs that form on the body where the screws go, bellow the bonnet. These can preclude the bonnet to make good contact with the body so it's sometimes a good idea to sand, or cut them, I found this on a forum. But be very careful when doing this because an exacto knife or whatever you're using can slip and damage the diaphragm seat. I my case though, it didn't make a difference, so I ended up concluding that it was the yellow seal, because the diaphragm worked ok on another valve!! I'm still waiting for a replacement from my dealer and I wasn't assured there are replacements for sale though, which is a pain. If I don't find them I'll try to hack something to test if it's that seal, I'm pretty sure it is because the leak is allways on the front and I have since disassembled a second valve with exactly the same behavior (working ok but got messed after cleaning, and leak is on the front on what seems to be the yellow seal area ....).
Hi there, thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. Although I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean that the flow coming into the valve is too much for the valve? In that case, just use the next size larger valve to insure that you keep friction loss low. Or do you mean the minimum flow rating for the valve is higher than the flow coming into it? In that case, find a valve that has a low-flow rating or use a smaller valve. Thanks for the tip! I've never seen a situation personally that the burrs caused a problem with the diaphragm, but I can see how it could happen. I usually just rub the pieces of plastic off with my fingers if it seems like a lot, and always have a cup of water to flush out everything before you put it back together. In your case, it might be that the yellow seal has been flatted a little and now it doesn't seal back up properly. My advice though, is to just replace the entire valve with a new one. My rule is that i try to rebuild or reassemble twice, and if it doesn't work, replace the valve. There's always the possibility that the lower valve body has a hairline crack that you can't see.
@@Proirrigationtraining Well thanks for taking the time to answer. Regarding the flow, I meant that the specifications of the valve imply for it to be used with a flow range that's normally used with a pipe larger in diameter than the valve threads of just 1". So that's why I asked if it's common practice to use a reduction, I meant a reduction from the pipe's larger diameter to 1" corresponding to the valve threads... That's how I'm using it and I was curious to know if that's what others are doing, I mean you don't normally use 1" pipe for those flows in the case of a large drip irrigation, due to the pressure losses... Or maybe people are using it for gardens anyway, I don't know, but I made some calculations and the pressure losses for those flows with 1" pipe are too high... Yeah, I must've dis/reassembled it about 7 times now, getting crazy, but today I found out that it doesn't leak with a custom seal replacing the yellow seal! I also found out that if I use a seal that's too thick it starts to leak again... Crazy to think I was about to get a new valve I now got 6 of them on the same situation and they're the 1 1/2" version, so I'm sparing 600$ ;) Cheers
@@machannel8746 Gotcha. I have seen people using a 1" valve on 1 1/2" pipes and corresponding flow rates. Even though the valve specs show a higher flow range, you should use a matching valve size to keep the friction loss down. I'm surprised that you found a new seal that perfectly matches the one on the valve, but glad you did. Those 1 1/2" valves are expensive! Thanks for watching and commenting. I always hope that the comments help other people looking for solutions, I know my videos aren't perfect and can't cover every situation, but we're all out here working, just trying to get er done.
Would the valve work with a inlet pressure of 13 psi?
The website of Rain Bird says that the minimum is 15 psi.
Do you have a video on the 150PEB ?? (did the Diaphragm assembly & Selonoeid replacement) and have a drip (earlier spray) where the adapter for the selonoed meets the bonnet.. What's with the two (2) slots on the nut portion of this bushing ??? if they were not there i don't think i'd be my drips .. Thanks in advance ..
Hi John, thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have a vid for the PEB. They're very rare in my area, so I'm not really familiar with them. I'm not sure about this one, but one of the valves doesn't actually need the adapter below the solenoid. I'm not sure about the two slots. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one. It's possible that the bonnet is cracked, you might have to cut the valve out and replace it.
Found the error of my ways ... by reading the instructions and finding a grommet/ O-ring that was for the selonoid to bonnet adapter (came with Selonoid Assembly)@@Proirrigationtraining
@@jp89702123 Fantastic!
Thanks for the video! Just curious why yours has 6 bolts to open up, while the Amazon link shows 10 or 12???
I'm betting that the picture on the Amazon listing is actually of a 2" model. The listing specifically says it's for a 1" product, but pretty sure its the wrong picture.
@@Proirrigationtraining Thanks for the heads up!
I find the flow too high for the thread diameter, is it common to use a reduction coupling ?
By the way, a little tip. I have an old one that was working fine, but I decided to open it up for cleaning... It started leaking between the bonnet and body after that and I opened and closed it up many times trying to figure out what it was. There are some spurs that form on the body where the screws go, bellow the bonnet. These can preclude the bonnet to make good contact with the body so it's sometimes a good idea to sand, or cut them, I found this on a forum. But be very careful when doing this because an exacto knife or whatever you're using can slip and damage the diaphragm seat.
I my case though, it didn't make a difference, so I ended up concluding that it was the yellow seal, because the diaphragm worked ok on another valve!! I'm still waiting for a replacement from my dealer and I wasn't assured there are replacements for sale though, which is a pain. If I don't find them I'll try to hack something to test if it's that seal, I'm pretty sure it is because the leak is allways on the front and I have since disassembled a second valve with exactly the same behavior (working ok but got messed after cleaning, and leak is on the front on what seems to be the yellow seal area ....).
Hi there, thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. Although I'm not sure I understand your question. Do you mean that the flow coming into the valve is too much for the valve? In that case, just use the next size larger valve to insure that you keep friction loss low. Or do you mean the minimum flow rating for the valve is higher than the flow coming into it? In that case, find a valve that has a low-flow rating or use a smaller valve. Thanks for the tip! I've never seen a situation personally that the burrs caused a problem with the diaphragm, but I can see how it could happen. I usually just rub the pieces of plastic off with my fingers if it seems like a lot, and always have a cup of water to flush out everything before you put it back together. In your case, it might be that the yellow seal has been flatted a little and now it doesn't seal back up properly. My advice though, is to just replace the entire valve with a new one. My rule is that i try to rebuild or reassemble twice, and if it doesn't work, replace the valve. There's always the possibility that the lower valve body has a hairline crack that you can't see.
@@Proirrigationtraining Well thanks for taking the time to answer. Regarding the flow, I meant that the specifications of the valve imply for it to be used with a flow range that's normally used with a pipe larger in diameter than the valve threads of just 1". So that's why I asked if it's common practice to use a reduction, I meant a reduction from the pipe's larger diameter to 1" corresponding to the valve threads... That's how I'm using it and I was curious to know if that's what others are doing, I mean you don't normally use 1" pipe for those flows in the case of a large drip irrigation, due to the pressure losses... Or maybe people are using it for gardens anyway, I don't know, but I made some calculations and the pressure losses for those flows with 1" pipe are too high...
Yeah, I must've dis/reassembled it about 7 times now, getting crazy, but today I found out that it doesn't leak with a custom seal replacing the yellow seal! I also found out that if I use a seal that's too thick it starts to leak again... Crazy to think I was about to get a new valve I now got 6 of them on the same situation and they're the 1 1/2" version, so I'm sparing 600$ ;) Cheers
@@machannel8746 Gotcha. I have seen people using a 1" valve on 1 1/2" pipes and corresponding flow rates. Even though the valve specs show a higher flow range, you should use a matching valve size to keep the friction loss down. I'm surprised that you found a new seal that perfectly matches the one on the valve, but glad you did. Those 1 1/2" valves are expensive! Thanks for watching and commenting. I always hope that the comments help other people looking for solutions, I know my videos aren't perfect and can't cover every situation, but we're all out here working, just trying to get er done.