I hope you guys enjoyed my How to Build a Lithium Battery tutorial series. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
Yeah, it's great. Question: since you wire 3 batteries in parallel, do you have anything that monitors that particular "cell" and tell you that it went bad ? I am thinking on the bad case that one or more individual cells is going down and the indicator would tell you which so you wouldn't have to disassemble the entire pack and test them all.
Hey EbikeSchool.com I am using 13cells in series and 18 such series connected in parallels so should I use only one 13s bms aur 18 13s bms in my battery pack?
Dude! I love you. Bought all your books, but actually seeing the mechanics behind the building is priceless. I’m a novice w/LI batteries, but after a year of reading, watching and buying a spot welder and 95% pure nickel roll, I’m gonna attempt to build a replacement 48v, 10.5 ah battery for my smallest (grocery-getter) e-scooter.
Thank you so much man. Now I can finally finish my build. I connected my b- directly to the controller and it didn’t work. Thanks to you I know now that the p- goes to the controller👍🏼
Bro, I've watched all of your videos for this. It's amazingly put together. I never understood the whole buckle strip placement, but now I do. One thing I'm getting my head around are the BMS wires , but I'm sure I'll get it after watching the same video a few times.
FANTASTIC VIDEO mate!!! You're the number #1 ebike educating dude..... LOVE watching your videos, reading your educational articles, your educational battery build kits... man... you rock!! Well done.. great job as usual =]
Connect the sense wires and the power wires BEFORE plugging in the sense cable to the BMS. The circuitry that the sense wires connect to contain MOSFETS which are static sensitive. It is also a good idea to use a static wrist strap when installing the BMS for the same reason.
enjoying your YT videos. I do recommend redoing your older YT videos with the music turned down. Or make one with music and one without music. or maybe I will just hit the cc button. thanks, Boss, keep up the outstanding work!
There seems to be a lot of comments from people connecting the wires on a bms in the wrong order and blowing them up. Is there a specific order that they should be connected and disconnected when removing a BMS?
Wondering if you are able to essentially put this pack in series with other packs with each of their own bms all connected to a charger via their respective leads?
im still learning about bms. i do have 12.6v and i dont have p- c-. my bms has only one way in and out for both charger and the load. thats why im having issues using these batteries as backup power during power interruptions. while looking at 3:13 diagram is it a good idea to wire directly the - from charger to the - side of the 3s 12v battery and dedicate the bms output for the load to what seems the p+ and p- of the bms?
i could post links of a picture if necessary,. currently my bms output is constantly hook both to a charger and the tv at the same time. i haven't measured the current draw yet but i guess the bms since it has balancer and over charge protection somehow cut off the charging voltage while powering a tv
as im posting here, its 2pm here and power will resume at 5pm. we usually have these power outages start from 5am to 5pm but not every month or so just sometimes. thats why im planning to build a 12v backup for lights, router, etc
On this BMS, the sense wires are to be fixed to each cell + , but you solder them between the + and -- . If the BMS required that they were to be soldered on the -- end , where would they go ? In the same place ? As you fixed them in between the + and -- of the cells, what determined that they were fixed to the + ? Is it the direction of flow ?
You are awesome! been searching videos trying to find a simple and straight to the point explanation, You nailed! Others should learn from you! Short and simple 🤘😃🤘 you just got a new subscriber.
So, Micah, I hope you've learned to use flux and a higher wattage, higher temperature soldering iron since this video. It's a great video other than the fact that all your connections are "cold." A hotter iron will heat the working area to the proper melting temp of the solder before that heat has a chance to migrate away to the batteries.
If the battery cells don't have 60A nor have the ability to deliver the true 60A but can deliver less than 50A then the BMS will not be triggered to shut the battery off..
May I know what is the real difference between a BMS with negative charge connected to C- and one BMS without the C-? Is either one better than the other or what is the real advantage?
For those who wonder which connectors to use. After trying different type of connectors, I recommend XT60 or XT90. XT90-S is good for powerful batteries.
Thank you for sharing, it's a very cool and instructive series of videos. I'd like to know what is the best way to make a 20s24p battery pack for a e-moto I'm building. I know I need look for a 20s BMS, but should I weld the 24 batteries in parallel? Or would it be better to make 20s battery packs with, let's say 12 parallel cells, each one with a BMS, and then connect the battery packs into a larger battery pack. Thank you
micah nice video i think i understand what to do but in a previous video you talked about putting 2 bms onto the battery pack in case one failed if so do you connect both identically and if one failed would the other seamlessly take over?
awesome guids, the ratings speak for themselves. I didn't see if you cover the heatsink of the BMS, and sometimes for higher power BMS the heatsink would melt the glue... all FETs and heatsinks benefit from capton/clearence/fets can melt nearby plastics/heatsink can be hot.
Hello and regards from Spain! I have a question regarding the connections for the BMS. I made 3 lines of ten batteries in series (36V) and then connected them in parallel (~10Amp) . Shall I just connect the wires of my BMS to the positive terminals of just one line of batteries? Or shall I make a kind of bridge connection between each individual BMS wire and its corresponding three-cells set? Thank you very much for your effort and instructive videos. You really motivated me to start up my personal projects!
I have a 13s BMS board that has a B- port and two P- ports. Do i need to use both P- ports ? I'd like to use the same XT60 battery lead for charging and discharging. Thanks for these great videos !
That's interesting, I haven't seen two P- ports before. Can you look at the traces on the board to see if they are electrically connected? I'm guessing that's just so that you can solder to both and double current carrying capacity (as long as it stays within the limits that the BMS is rated for). I can't be positive though.
Why you solder main positive and negative all along the four cells. Wouldn’t it work just soldering those wires to any spot in thar nickel since they are already connected ?
again enjoyed your video , just wondered if when you are soldering wires onto your nickel strips if you are using acid core, rosin core, or just plain solder?
are bms supposed get hot??mine gets real hot i am afraid to leave it plugged in??as it melts the hot glue??polarity is good seams to not work ass its drains the battery from 16.8volt to 13.5 volt thanks for your videos
I plan to build a battery pack with 18650 cells, one 3S5P, to power my LED lamp torch and I will add one BMS on my pack. How do you know when the pack is fully charged when I use one BMS with my pack? I also have TP4056 charger to charge 18650 cells individually; when the cell is fully charged, the LED "CHARGED" turn on. Do you know if some BMS will display the status of the pack "charged" ? Thank you in advance and thank you very much for your video, very helpfull. Jean-Jacques
Excellent video's, thanks. I am replacing a BMS on my 36v bike battery pack and I have got the same BMS you show in the video. You don't mention wiring a switch. Are they the two connections on the left hand side of the 10 wire connector? If this is correct, shouldn't these connectors be bridged if no switch is used. The existing battery pack switch had small gauge wires to connectors on the BMS.
Thanks one more. You even show us how to solder nicely.. Is there any way we can check if the BMS has indeed a balancing function? And another question: Is it worth it to find BMSs with temperature sensor? Thanks.
Hey man I really appreciate your information and making this video but I have a little problem I'm getting power from my battery pack but it is not delivering to my bike. I have two other batteries and they work great and I've troubleshot everything. Do you have any suggestions or what am I look for?
The p- and c- ports on my bms are right next to each other and the metal contacts on the board actually touch. Does this imply that while I could connect two wires to it, I'm essentially using a shared c- and p- port? Based on this, it seems like it would be useless to add a second charge cable and instead just have a single discharge/charge connector.
Is it possible to use the BMS just for charging? So not connecting the p- on the bms but directly to the connector? Would be cheaper because you can use a lower amp bms then... Or is this not recommended?
This is possible. Just be warned that you lose the discharge protection this way. So you can accidentally discharge your pack too much since the BMS can't protect it by cutting discharge. If you are careful and monitor pack voltage though, it shouldn't be a problem.
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I have a question why there are Lithium batteries with many exterior wires and other with only two. In my case I have a 6 batteries Lithium. With two thick wires ( black and red) and five small wires ( yellow, blue, red, black, white). What are the function of the 5 wires? Does those batteries has a BMS?
I'm a bit confused as to what does what. I understand that lithium batteries need constant current / constant voltage charging. When you use a BMS, do you also need a "lithium charger" to do that, or is that functionality contained in the BMS, so that a simple regulated power supply + BMS is sufficient?
I gather that solder heat will damage the batteries, so I am wondering why it is OK to use the high temperature glue. From Amazon it would be about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you comment on weather LFP batteries are more or less sensitive to temperature. Thank you for the great videos.
Can discharge port and charging port connect together? To make 1 port 2in1 discharge and charging. For this bms in your picture. Or is it i need to buy a bms board that only have 1 port?
Dont like having the bms on the pack, after a bms failed on me i have it connected to the charger now instead and just plug the balance lead from the pack in to the bms, and the xt 60 from the pack in to the bms xt60 + and -. This way if the bms fails it does not kill the pack (has happened to me and discharged a parallel section of batteries to 0v, killing the cells). Use an in line 40a fuse to the speed controller as your protection.
hi, very nice work, i follow your advices and everything go right. It works! The only thing i'm not sure about is the foam. My english is too bad to understand evrything you say. Can you tell me, please, what kind of foam is it and where i can find it. thx
Thank you very much, was stuck for months with this. My inverter charge and discharge on the same positive and negative, thus -p and -c will use my inverters negative split into two to solder them into the bms. Thanks. GOD bless.
Hi, I'm trying to replace batteries of my booster board v1. I got the new batteries and like to understand what is the sequence of steps I need to follow to solder the balancing ends to avoid shorting and frying the BMS. I need to make 12SP1.Do I connect all the cells in series with the and then start to solder the pack to the bms from main '-' then the balancing end all the way to the main '+' ? Appreciate your help
Seems to be a gr8 video but all additional terminals or wires don't really make sense until explained in detail. Example is there an overload protect included and how does it work? Why more then 1 wire from the bms to the same terminal??
I have a 36V 11Ah Lithium bike battery and I accidentally shorted it. None of the cells are damaged but it seems the BMS 10s is. It does have a temperature sensor (twin black wire joined at the end in a resin cover). I wonder if there could have a fuse in the BMS and how to find it... Also, compared to the components shown in your video there are two more wires connecting the on/off button of the battery. Are they special or all BMS have them? Finally, since you said that I need to know the amperage to know what BMS I need, my 5x10 cells are 2200mA and 37V and my bike engine is 500w. Is that enough to calculate the needed BMS amperage?
Hi Ebikeschool I want to ask if I need to connect the holes in B- and C- ? I wonder i have a type of BMS there are two holes each connection B- and C-. If i will connect 1 wire in 1 hole is it okay??or I need to connect both two holes? The B- can connect in last negative which is the last positive also?? Or two holes connection in 1 wire to 1st negative?
is there a limit to the number of batteries in a parallel group? for instance would it be possible to make a battery pack of 3.7 v with 20 batteries, then connect 3 packs in series for a 12 volt pack?
Hello ! I have a Samsung SDI battery (36.3v 10.0Ah 363.0Wh)... I'm looking for a BMS board to replace it, but I can not find the same one. Can I use any kind of BMS ? Thanks in advance.
I noticed in one of your posts you said you could parallel 2 BMS together to double your amperage would you be terminating all of the wiring on building a 20 S5P battery and I could only find 40 amp BMS for 20 S if I was to wire both would I terminate all 20 wires on each BMS identically I'm praying you can answer
Hello I have a query I am designing a bank of batteries for a 48v ebike and I have bought a bms of 13s 20A and when it is loading the cells a few LEDs are lit but not all the LEDs have been lit when the charger is already disconnected and not Load more and the other is when I am testing it and it exceeds 20A of the bms it disconnects the system, which recommends me. thank you very much.
Useful hint: Some of the cheaper BMSs (like I can afford) are *rated* for 50A but need the channels reinforcing when you go above 20 (at least they were honest). A layer or two of pre-tinned solar cell ribbon along the power lines in the board will add the extra carrying capacity you need relatively easily and for cheap. It's also really easy to cut into the right shape and size. How much current goes through the sense wires? Those I have are good enough for signals but not for power so I need to know whether or not they need replacing. Any reason you're soldering the negative wires all the way along an already conductive nickel strip?
What if your bms on your battery has a on off switch an the one your replacing it with doesn't? Does this matter is there a way to wire ot in ? Pls help
My scooter build requires me to use 4 battery packs. Each pack is 12s1p, which are then all wired in parallel to make 12s4p. Is it possible to wire a bms to this frankenstien battery? Obviously if they were all in a single simple cube shape, like a normal 12s4p battery it would be possible, but I have no idea how I'd go about wiring the balance wires to my 4x48v battery packs...
Super valuable video. You are great at teaching things. Calm, professional and telling all the details like nickel thickness for certain amps. Highly appreciated video series. Maybe you could record something newer for the knowledge and experience you have in 2021? :)
Hi! I have bought a bms and it doesn't have a C- wire. In stead, there are 2 P- wires and the manual says that I should connect the P- wires to the charger and the controller. Pls help.
There seems to be a lot of different types of BMS's (charge and discharge) , could you explain this and how they work - I have an electronics background
I am building a 48v 20ah and I have no idea what wires/connectors to buy to connect the battery to my controller and to charger. I need specific name of wires and connectors
The 48V BMS you had had 4+11 prongs for 15 total,minus 1 prong for ground.So this is for 14 cell battery,right?I am still trying to wrap my head around this,thanks.
if i want to build a 96v, 20ah battery, you indicated i would need a 96v bms. usinga 30s2p configuraiton. but could i use one bms with a 16-channel bms since there are two parallel batteries?
If using LiFePo4 cells on a car starter battery, where do have the BMS-charge /-discharge lines to be connected, because on a motorcar there are two connections only covering charging (from alternator) and discharging (to the starter motor) same time! 🤔
I’m new to this process and was wondering about the BMS system. Does it matter which BMS system you use for which ebike? If i build a battery like you with a new BMS- Will all of it work on any ebike or do I need to do something else also to get it to work?
Hello.... Can i use a 14 gauge copper wire instead of 14 gauge silicone wire for the positive and negative terminal of the battery pack ? thank you for your videos ❤️♥️♥️
nice videos.i was hoping i could salvage 2, 48v 6ah bottle style batteries.i dont see any videos with them opened up.i used the throttle to much when i first installed 1000w the front wheel kit.i use a 12ah bat.now and have a 6ah for backup.after i ruined the 2 batteries i mostly use pedal assist so to manage and save my batteries.
I hope you guys enjoyed my How to Build a Lithium Battery tutorial series. If you want to learn even more, I hope you'll consider checking out my Amazon #1 Bestselling book, DIY Lithium Batteries, available in paperback and ebook formats. a.co/iDtWdPX
Yeah, it's great. Question: since you wire 3 batteries in parallel, do you have anything that monitors that particular "cell" and tell you that it went bad ? I am thinking on the bad case that one or more individual cells is going down and the indicator would tell you which so you wouldn't have to disassemble the entire pack and test them all.
Why would one need a BMS?
Brother can we 16 s bms in 15 s cell battery
@@thekaiser4333 why wouldn't you use one?
Hey EbikeSchool.com I am using 13cells in series and 18 such series connected in parallels so should I use only one 13s bms aur 18 13s bms in my battery pack?
Dude! I love you. Bought all your books, but actually seeing the mechanics behind the building is priceless. I’m a novice w/LI batteries, but after a year of reading, watching and buying a spot welder and 95% pure nickel roll, I’m gonna attempt to build a replacement 48v, 10.5 ah battery for my smallest (grocery-getter) e-scooter.
Thank you so much man. Now I can finally finish my build. I connected my b- directly to the controller and it didn’t work. Thanks to you I know now that the p- goes to the controller👍🏼
Bro, I've watched all of your videos for this. It's amazingly put together.
I never understood the whole buckle strip placement, but now I do.
One thing I'm getting my head around are the BMS wires , but I'm sure I'll get it after watching the same video a few times.
I'm an American modding an e-moto in China for fun and this is saving my life.
FANTASTIC VIDEO mate!!!
You're the number #1 ebike educating dude..... LOVE watching your videos, reading your educational articles, your educational battery build kits... man... you rock!! Well done.. great job as usual =]
Connect the sense wires and the power wires BEFORE plugging in the sense cable to the BMS. The circuitry that the sense wires connect to contain MOSFETS which are static sensitive. It is also a good idea to use a static wrist strap when installing the BMS for the same reason.
enjoying your YT videos. I do recommend redoing your older YT videos with the music turned down. Or make one with music and one without music. or maybe I will just hit the cc button. thanks, Boss, keep up the outstanding work!
Hello, in the diagram on my BMS from Vruzend the P- is a blue wire, if you look (3:27) the C- is the blue wire.
There seems to be a lot of comments from people connecting the wires on a bms in the wrong order and blowing them up. Is there a specific order that they should be connected and disconnected when removing a BMS?
Wondering if you are able to essentially put this pack in series with other packs with each of their own bms all connected to a charger via their respective leads?
im still learning about bms. i do have 12.6v and i dont have p- c-. my bms has only one way in and out for both charger and the load. thats why im having issues using these batteries as backup power during power interruptions. while looking at 3:13 diagram is it a good idea to wire directly the - from charger to the - side of the 3s 12v battery and dedicate the bms output for the load to what seems the p+ and p- of the bms?
i could post links of a picture if necessary,. currently my bms output is constantly hook both to a charger and the tv at the same time. i haven't measured the current draw yet but i guess the bms since it has balancer and over charge protection somehow cut off the charging voltage while powering a tv
as im posting here, its 2pm here and power will resume at 5pm. we usually have these power outages start from 5am to 5pm but not every month or so just sometimes. thats why im planning to build a 12v backup for lights, router, etc
Great video, and thanks! Quick question.... can I ignore the P- and just use it for charging the pack?
On this BMS, the sense wires are to be fixed to each cell + , but you solder them between the + and -- . If the BMS required that they were to be soldered on the -- end , where would they go ? In the same place ?
As you fixed them in between the + and -- of the cells, what determined that they were fixed to the + ? Is it the direction of flow ?
You are awesome! been searching videos trying to find a simple and straight to the point explanation, You nailed! Others should learn from you! Short and simple 🤘😃🤘 you just got a new subscriber.
So, Micah, I hope you've learned to use flux and a higher wattage, higher temperature soldering iron since this video. It's a great video other than the fact that all your connections are "cold." A hotter iron will heat the working area to the proper melting temp of the solder before that heat has a chance to migrate away to the batteries.
What happens if your motor wants to draw 60amps from the 50amp bms? will it shut down then come back on?
If the battery cells don't have 60A nor have the ability to deliver the true 60A but can deliver less than 50A then the BMS will not be triggered to shut the battery off..
How do I wire it to charge and discharge through a single connector?
so the discharge port is basically the power out that goes to the bike's controller?
What if my discharge and charge connectors are the same? Specifically, it is just one XT60 connector.
Yes same
May I know what is the real difference between a BMS with negative charge connected to C- and one BMS without the C-? Is either one better than the other or what is the real advantage?
For those who wonder which connectors to use. After trying different type of connectors, I recommend XT60 or XT90. XT90-S is good for powerful batteries.
thanks for professional advice
Thank you for sharing, it's a very cool and instructive series of videos.
I'd like to know what is the best way to make a 20s24p battery pack for a e-moto I'm building.
I know I need look for a 20s BMS, but should I weld the 24 batteries in parallel? Or would it be better to make 20s battery packs with, let's say 12 parallel cells, each one with a BMS, and then connect the battery packs into a larger battery pack.
Thank you
micah nice video i think i understand what to do but in a previous video you talked about putting 2 bms onto the battery pack in case one failed if so do you connect both identically and if one failed would the other seamlessly take over?
awesome guids, the ratings speak for themselves. I didn't see if you cover the heatsink of the BMS, and sometimes for higher power BMS the heatsink would melt the glue... all FETs and heatsinks benefit from capton/clearence/fets can melt nearby plastics/heatsink can be hot.
Waiting to know how you found the bms replacement
Hello and regards from Spain!
I have a question regarding the connections for the BMS. I made 3 lines of ten batteries in series (36V) and then connected them in parallel (~10Amp) . Shall I just connect the wires of my BMS to the positive terminals of just one line of batteries? Or shall I make a kind of bridge connection between each individual BMS wire and its corresponding three-cells set?
Thank you very much for your effort and instructive videos. You really motivated me to start up my personal projects!
You need to buy the book good luck..
I'd recommend using a liquid flux when soldering.
Soldering acid helps also.
Want kind of charger i need to use for this
I have a 13s BMS board that has a B- port and two P- ports. Do i need to use both P- ports ? I'd like to use the same XT60 battery lead for charging and discharging. Thanks for these great videos !
That's interesting, I haven't seen two P- ports before. Can you look at the traces on the board to see if they are electrically connected? I'm guessing that's just so that you can solder to both and double current carrying capacity (as long as it stays within the limits that the BMS is rated for). I can't be positive though.
Do you need to solder the B- and the B+ to each spot in between all cells ? Or can you just do on one end of the nickel strip?
Hi. Great vid again. Just purchased you book and I'm very impressed. I would recommend this book to all. Keep up the good work.
is there a special reason why the P- cable is so thick compared to the other ones?
Mike,
If I build a LiFePO4 pack,does the little chips on top of each cell do they same as a BMS?
Very good video. I just have 1 question. What kind/size of cable do you use to connect BMS B- to my batterypack?
Why you solder main positive and negative all along the four cells. Wouldn’t it work just soldering those wires to any spot in thar nickel since they are already connected ?
thanks, can the BMS be reset in this setup
where did the thermistor go to? glued to the BMS cover or a battery?
i just want to ask what kind and size of wire to be use when wiring those 18650's
i was actully wondering would it be ok to hook 2 48 volt battier packs in series to a 3000 watt ebike kit thats supposed to have about 98 volt pack
any problem in working power pack,please upload image how connect it
hello super cool videos , i have question where can i find 72v or 96v bms ?
again enjoyed your video , just wondered if when you are soldering wires onto your nickel strips if you are using acid core, rosin core, or just plain solder?
are bms supposed get hot??mine gets real hot i am afraid to leave it plugged in??as it melts the hot glue??polarity is good seams to not work ass its drains the battery from 16.8volt to 13.5 volt thanks for your videos
Is the bms here plug and play? I don't see any mention of how to program them
I plan to build a battery pack with 18650 cells, one 3S5P, to power my LED lamp torch and I will add one BMS on my pack.
How do you know when the pack is fully charged when I use one BMS with my pack?
I also have TP4056 charger to charge 18650 cells individually; when the cell is fully charged, the LED "CHARGED" turn on.
Do you know if some BMS will display the status of the pack "charged" ?
Thank you in advance and thank you very much for your video, very helpfull.
Jean-Jacques
Excellent video's, thanks. I am replacing a BMS on my 36v bike battery pack and I have got the same BMS you show in the video. You don't mention wiring a switch. Are they the two connections on the left hand side of the 10 wire connector? If this is correct, shouldn't these connectors be bridged if no switch is used. The existing battery pack switch had small gauge wires to connectors on the BMS.
Thanks one more. You even show us how to solder nicely.. Is there any way we can check if the BMS has indeed a balancing function? And another question: Is it worth it to find BMSs with temperature sensor? Thanks.
Hey man I really appreciate your information and making this video but I have a little problem I'm getting power from my battery pack but it is not delivering to my bike. I have two other batteries and they work great and I've troubleshot everything. Do you have any suggestions or what am I look for?
The p- and c- ports on my bms are right next to each other and the metal contacts on the board actually touch. Does this imply that while I could connect two wires to it, I'm essentially using a shared c- and p- port? Based on this, it seems like it would be useless to add a second charge cable and instead just have a single discharge/charge connector.
Is it possible to use the BMS just for charging? So not connecting the p- on the bms but directly to the connector?
Would be cheaper because you can use a lower amp bms then... Or is this not recommended?
This is possible. Just be warned that you lose the discharge protection this way. So you can accidentally discharge your pack too much since the BMS can't protect it by cutting discharge. If you are careful and monitor pack voltage though, it shouldn't be a problem.
Hello, thanks for all your videos. I have a question why there are Lithium batteries with many exterior wires and other with only two. In my case I have a 6 batteries Lithium. With two thick wires ( black and red) and five small wires ( yellow, blue, red, black, white).
What are the function of the 5 wires? Does those batteries has a BMS?
If I have a b+ connection on the original bms i have can I use a bms that doesn't have a b+?
What is the input voltage rating for 3s bms
You are the most honest person and amazing
I'm a bit confused as to what does what. I understand that lithium batteries need constant current / constant voltage charging. When you use a BMS, do you also need a "lithium charger" to do that, or is that functionality contained in the BMS, so that a simple regulated power supply + BMS is sufficient?
I gather that solder heat will damage the batteries, so I am wondering why it is OK to use the high temperature glue. From Amazon it would be about 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Can you comment on weather LFP batteries are more or less sensitive to temperature. Thank you for the great videos.
Do you have a video on wiring the battery packs in parallel? To power a 72 or 96v system?
Can discharge port and charging port connect together? To make 1 port 2in1 discharge and charging. For this bms in your picture. Or is it i need to buy a bms board that only have 1 port?
Will 60/40 Electrical Rosin Core Solder AM31604 work fine to solder a battery pack and not melt fast? Melting temp is 374 Fahrenheit
Does the bms with b positive have p positive instead????
Dont like having the bms on the pack, after a bms failed on me i have it connected to the charger now instead and just plug the balance lead from the pack in to the bms, and the xt 60 from the pack in to the bms xt60 + and -. This way if the bms fails it does not kill the pack (has happened to me and discharged a parallel section of batteries to 0v, killing the cells). Use an in line 40a fuse to the speed controller as your protection.
When the battery is fully charged the charger stops the charge process. Does the charger stop it or is it the BMS in the battery that stops it?
hi, very nice work, i follow your advices and everything go right. It works! The only thing i'm not sure about is the foam. My english is too bad to understand evrything you say. Can you tell me, please, what kind of foam is it and where i can find it. thx
Would the power on/off switch connect some where along the discharge? if so would it require a fuse with packs amp rated?
What about a 2 wire bms with only P- and B-? Should minus on charge connector go together with P minus on bms?
i watched a video were a guy put the discharge connector negative on the c- instead of P- and it still worked...i am so confused!
The power wall people dont use a bms, why should they or why do you need to when they dont need to?
Thank you very much, was stuck for months with this. My inverter charge and discharge on the same positive and negative, thus -p and -c will use my inverters negative split into two to solder them into the bms. Thanks. GOD bless.
Hi, I'm trying to replace batteries of my booster board v1. I got the new batteries and like to understand what is the sequence of steps I need to follow to solder the balancing ends to avoid shorting and frying the BMS. I need to make 12SP1.Do I connect all the cells in series with the and then start to solder the pack to the bms from main '-' then the balancing end all the way to the main '+' ? Appreciate your help
The BMS I am using only has a B- and P- which I have connected to a XT90 connector. What type of charger do I need?
it tooks me 1 minute watching you video to get information i need. thank you.
I received the book as you promised thank very much!
Can you please tell me the name of the liquid glue you used to glue the bms to the foam?
It is just generic, hot melt glue
Thanks
Seems to be a gr8 video but all additional terminals or wires don't really make sense until explained in detail. Example is there an overload protect included and how does it work? Why more then 1 wire from the bms to the same terminal??
I have a 36V 11Ah Lithium bike battery and I accidentally shorted it. None of the cells are damaged but it seems the BMS 10s is. It does have a temperature sensor (twin black wire joined at the end in a resin cover). I wonder if there could have a fuse in the BMS and how to find it... Also, compared to the components shown in your video there are two more wires connecting the on/off button of the battery. Are they special or all BMS have them?
Finally, since you said that I need to know the amperage to know what BMS I need, my 5x10 cells are 2200mA and 37V and my bike engine is 500w. Is that enough to calculate the needed BMS amperage?
Hi Ebikeschool
I want to ask if I need to connect the holes in B- and C- ? I wonder i have a type of BMS there are two holes each connection B- and C-. If i will connect 1 wire in 1 hole is it okay??or I need to connect both two holes? The B- can connect in last negative which is the last positive also??
Or two holes connection in 1 wire to 1st negative?
is there a limit to the number of batteries in a parallel group? for instance would it be possible to make a battery pack of 3.7 v with 20 batteries, then connect 3 packs in series for a 12 volt pack?
Hello ! I have a Samsung SDI battery (36.3v 10.0Ah 363.0Wh)... I'm looking for a BMS board to replace it, but I can not find the same one. Can I use any kind of BMS ? Thanks in advance.
I noticed in one of your posts you said you could parallel 2 BMS together to double your amperage would you be terminating all of the wiring on building a 20 S5P battery and I could only find 40 amp BMS for 20 S if I was to wire both would I terminate all 20 wires on each BMS identically I'm praying you can answer
what soldering iron are you using,thanks
Hello I have a query I am designing a bank of batteries for a 48v ebike and I have bought a bms of 13s 20A and when it is loading the cells a few LEDs are lit but not all the LEDs have been lit when the charger is already disconnected and not Load more and the other is when I am testing it and it exceeds 20A of the bms it disconnects the system, which recommends me. thank you very much.
Useful hint: Some of the cheaper BMSs (like I can afford) are *rated* for 50A but need the channels reinforcing when you go above 20 (at least they were honest). A layer or two of pre-tinned solar cell ribbon along the power lines in the board will add the extra carrying capacity you need relatively easily and for cheap. It's also really easy to cut into the right shape and size.
How much current goes through the sense wires? Those I have are good enough for signals but not for power so I need to know whether or not they need replacing.
Any reason you're soldering the negative wires all the way along an already conductive nickel strip?
What if your bms on your battery has a on off switch an the one your replacing it with doesn't? Does this matter is there a way to wire ot in ? Pls help
My scooter build requires me to use 4 battery packs. Each pack is 12s1p, which are then all wired in parallel to make 12s4p. Is it possible to wire a bms to this frankenstien battery? Obviously if they were all in a single simple cube shape, like a normal 12s4p battery it would be possible, but I have no idea how I'd go about wiring the balance wires to my 4x48v battery packs...
Super valuable video. You are great at teaching things. Calm, professional and telling all the details like nickel thickness for certain amps. Highly appreciated video series. Maybe you could record something newer for the knowledge and experience you have in 2021? :)
Hi! I have bought a bms and it doesn't have a C- wire. In stead, there are 2 P- wires and the manual says that I should connect the P- wires to the charger and the controller. Pls help.
If you use a bms with to high of amps , does it mess up your controller? Please respond I need help with my battery
I f I conect to P- power and charging cable, what when be wrong, then will no be overcharge protection?
Okay i saw the entire video. what is BMS device and what does it do? why is that necesary?
There seems to be a lot of different types of BMS's (charge and discharge) , could you explain this and how they work - I have an electronics background
I am building a 48v 20ah and I have no idea what wires/connectors to buy to connect the battery to my controller and to charger. I need specific name of wires and connectors
The 48V BMS you had had 4+11 prongs for 15 total,minus 1 prong for ground.So this is for 14 cell battery,right?I am still trying to wrap my head around this,thanks.
Does all batterys have bms
i have 3 12v lead acid batteries, how do i connect them?
if i want to build a 96v, 20ah battery, you indicated i would need a 96v bms. usinga 30s2p configuraiton. but could i use one bms with a 16-channel bms since there are two parallel batteries?
Hi mike iam trying to find where to buy BMS from..I have a 13S 48V 25A
If using LiFePo4 cells on a car starter battery, where do have the BMS-charge /-discharge lines to be connected, because on a motorcar there are two connections only covering charging (from alternator) and discharging (to the starter motor) same time! 🤔
I’m new to this process and was wondering about the BMS system. Does it matter which BMS system you use for which ebike? If i build a battery like you with a new BMS- Will all of it work on any ebike or do I need to do something else also to get it to work?
Hello.... Can i use a 14 gauge copper wire instead of 14 gauge silicone wire for the positive and negative terminal of the battery pack ? thank you for your videos ❤️♥️♥️
i have a question can i connect to the bms batteries with the same voltage but different current like one of 500mah and one of 2000mah??
nice videos.i was hoping i could salvage 2, 48v 6ah bottle style batteries.i dont see any videos with them opened up.i used the throttle to much when i first installed 1000w the front wheel kit.i use a 12ah bat.now and have a 6ah for backup.after i ruined the 2 batteries i mostly use pedal assist so to manage and save my batteries.