I was just sitting down to tackle this very project today when I thought to check youtube for any tips. I'm so thankful I ran across your video, Chris! I appreciate the quality of presentation, the pace, and your willingness to provide all information needed. Thank you so much for sharing! :)
Thank you!! Your method is exactly what I’m looking for. I have watched so many photo transfer to wood videos that were more time consuming and mediocre at best. Your did an excellent job of demonstrating. Cheers!!
Excellent idea. I have used mod podge for other tasks, such as representing water for dioramas. One trick I learned that might could help for your final top coat would be to thin it a little with water. That would reduce the viscosity and might allow you to smooth it out good enough while rolling it for a single coat. But I totally get why you sand it and then apply the second coat. I do the same when sealing many of my scale models. Makes for a very smooth finish. BTW, the main reason for watching this is because I want to add a small picture to the wooden base of my diorama frame so trying to see the best way to do that.
@zorawthustra I will be honest I am not sure. I would think you would have to sand allow it unless trying to thin it with water. Can you explain what you are trying to achieve.
Thanks a whole bunch for this video Chris. I was actually looking for something else but ended up watching this video a couple of times :). I'm also a photographer and have prints for sale in a gallery. This mounting project will allow me another avenue for print sales.
Thank you very much for the very detailed video Chris. I have been searching for something exactly like this video. I appreciate your dedication, and excellence in making this. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us all. It is much appreciated.
Thank you for sharing your step by step process, I consider myself a serious hobby photographer and looking for my next advanced step as my long term plan was to try and sell some of my images, I do sell stock images have been for the past 3 years not enough to say hey I'll quite my day job tho. I do grade my images as in send seconds off to stock and hang onto the ones that deserve a frame as to say.
@@cgardinerphoto... If you ever planning a trip to South Africa, you can give me a shout. Would love to connect and show you around one of the most diverse cities in the world, from the beautiful coustlines, to the majestic mountains, to the wine valleys.
a very generous offer! Thank you Francois. I'd love to visit one day but I think it might be a while before I get to travel again, since we've got a 2 year old and a one month old right now.
I have a suggestion. I make these boxes and I never use mod podge. I find using a spray adhesive like Gorilla Spray on adhesive or 3M 77 works fast and is a solid adhesive for almost any surface. And is it smooth. And for a sealer, I suggest a mat spray sealer, it goes on smooth and looks flawless, plus its quick drying - about 3 minutes and the results look super professional.
awesome!! thanks for your comment Mullins Toys. I've played with a variety of sealers and adhesives, including some of what you've mentioned and they all have their own set of benefits and drawbacks in my experience.
Would gorilla spray work with a normal photo on photo paper by a print. Shop ? I’m searching for something that I can stick my photo prints onto wood so far says mod podge won’t stick a normal photograph ?
Michael Rhodes personally I've not had great experience with any of the spray adhesives I've used. and when it comes to gorilla brand adhesives (never tried a gorilla spray though) I've actually not liked it at all. Though I haven't used them in this sort of application either. Are you able to get a test piece of paper from your print shop (I'm thinking like one inch square) you can do a trial run onto wood with? My problems with spray adhesives are the fumes for one, and the mess - you're bound to get adhesive on something you don't want it on (sometimes even other parts of your work piece), and in turn create a lot of unnecessary waste doing it. Your mileage may vary though. Good luck and thanks for your comment and for watching!!
@@michaelrhodes9614 Gorilla spray adhesive works incredibly well with photo prints. Works well with any paper actually. I personally do not use mod podge.
If I am making several prints or mounting A3+ prints I have found using an inexpensive gravity feed automotive spray gun and mixing the sealant with about 20% water gives a really smooth finish without sanding or worrying about texture. Cleaning the gun takes a couple minutes using clean water.
Just the spray. Light coats but no sanding.@@zorawthustra I'm going to try a more viscous mix to lay down the glue between the backing and the print. Kind of like 3M 77 without the toxins.
hi Jeff, thanks for your question. Yes I did let it dry before top coat. the times I didn't, it seemed I would get more warping and wrinkling in the paper more easily.
Nice! I did try once with a metallic paper. Was MOAB brand. I seem to remember some soak through of adhesive on back changing the finish on the front (was a while back now). So I’d start with one small one and do the full process. If all goes well - finish the 10 afterward.
Much appreciated. Good tutorial and helpful. Will pass on the finish as I’m using archival art paper....possible use a less dramatic finish if needed.....I’ll see how I go. Thanks again.
thanks for your comment. Yes, they're the same in most cases. I only ever used the basic modpodge for the adhesive and then experimented with different ones for the top layer. worth trying out whichever varieties you can to find out what you'll like best and what will match your work best.
glad you like it. I used the Epson Stylus photo 1400 here, its an older printer now. Canon and Epson make great photo printers. Paper - just use the heaviest photo type paper you can find with the finish you like. usually glossy, matte, or some middle ground. I tend to like the ones in the middle of full gloss and full matte.
Modern podge is not a waterproof sealer. But they do have an Acrylic spray sealer that is. I use that to finish after two coats of Satin finish. Use the right brush or you get coarser finish with the more wiry ones ...if you don't have a roller.👍
Also try a waterbased polycrylic. Don't get the satin finish. Your a bit OCD and I think you will like the outcome of a polycrylic better. I love modpoge too but the polycrylic will help your bank account and feed that OCD need.
thanks for the tip, i'll have a look. and you can call it OCD maybe, I call it precise. haha. (side note, can't believe there is anything easier on the bank account than mod podge!?)
@@cgardinerphoto Yes easy to buy. So it's about 10 bucks right? So is a small can of polycrylic. The polycrylic glaze will make it more of a sellable product. Also you want your art to transcend time for a bit longer. I'm assuming. I found out it's easier to get a more professional and precise look if it dries in a dust free environment. If you find a good way to do it will you let me know. LoL. Take it easy.
hey Troy. thanks for your comment. If you're thinking of poster paper like of the thickness you'd find in a Wal Mart poster section (thinner materials than the photo paper ive used), I would say experiment first if at all possible, but the thinner papers, did have issues with bubbling more easily, in my experience. Good luck with it!
Your work looks really nice, thanks for sharing you knowledge, would you mind providing description of productos you used like glue to attach picture and the one used to provide protective coat, I want to find similar ones in my countr, thanks again.
Thank you so much for your tip on mounting a photograph to a wood panel. Have you ever thought of putting a high glass varnish instead of Mod Podge on top of that photograph? That is my project coming up.
Hi Mary thanks for your comment. Yes I have done that too. I have a video on here to do with envirotex and I think I have an art resin one up somewhere as well.
Any suggestions to help get a uniform texture? I used the Satin Modpodge on Matte photo paper. It would apply nice with a sponge roller, but then the modpodge would start to pool up on itself, even after several layers of application. I basically had to keep rolling it as it started to dry, but that made it almost impossible to get a consistent finish. I have an acrylic ultra matte varnish that I'm going to try to finish my next one with, but wanted to check to see if you had any suggestions.
hey Samantha. if the modpodge is pooling in any way, you may be applying too much at once. it should be just enough to coat it once over. And give it a chance to dry fully between each application. Are you using any sandpaper to smooth it out? Once I get a few layers in, I'll give a good light sand with high grit, and then one more finishing coat on that. I like using art resin as a finish as well. I am working on a new video to show all the different finishing styles I used and should be coming soon. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Hi. I had to look up Fevicol on Wikipedia. we don't have that brand here in Canada. It may be similar, but Mod Podge is it's own brand name, it's a craft glue which dries clear and still has adhesive properties.
@@subodhrai4481 if you have a very fine grit paper, and have applied at least two thin coats with it completely dried, it should be very difficult to take off so much of the top coat that you start to scratch the picture underneath.
thanks for your comment - and is that prints from a dye-sub printer? if so - I'd say yes you should be able to without any issue, but maybe test on a small 2x3 or something first.
Hi, one question. Did you let the modge podge dry on the bottom before doing to top? I'm having an issue with buckling when I apply to modge podge to the top.
Hey Uly. Good question. I probably could have addressed that in the video. Yes I do try to let them dry before top coat. a few other things you can try; go lighter on your first top coat of mod podge, and just do more coats after that one dries - usually very quick dry time on the top. also, you can try heavier paper, since I think thinner paper will be easier to buckle.
Thank you for sharing this video.. I actually do something like this myself, but on either tile or hard board. Do you find that you get air bubbles when using regular photo paper, and if so, how do you remedy that?
Maria Morrow I don't usually get air bubbles in my process. I'll typically put one edge down and then gradually press across the paper to the opposite side. -- imagine your print was rolled up and you gradually unrolled it across the board if you do it this way you shouldn't be able to trap pockets of air because you're applying the print in one direction while forcing the air out from under it .
for the print back, it was a plywood, 1/4" usually. For the edges, in most cases, I was using fir strips, they had some joinery in them, which I would try not to cut corners on top of but otherwise the price was right, nice size, and they had a nice bevel already. I often scale up the materials the larger the print size though as well.
Hi-Are you using your own table saws are is there a place where you can rent time on one? I thought I heard you refer to one, but I could not understand what it was you said.
Hi Allen, thanks for your comment. Now I can't remember what it was that I had said on that topic, but I am using my own saws. As for getting things cut down to size for you - when you pick up your materials at somewhere like Home Depot, they'll occasionally be able to cut pieces down to more manageable sizes. But that is the extent of what I am aware of as far as people cutting your material for you. The 45 angles won't be so nice, but much of what I show here can be accomplished with a jigsaw if table and chop saws are out of the question for you.
THANKS Chris for the information. One last question (for now anyway!)...Better to use Art Resin, or go with ModPodge? Art Resin seems pricier, but if you think it gives a better result, I'd like to know. Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
Hi Geoff, Yes I would say that art resin makes a more striking finish. It's a little more work to get it there, and has it's own challenges (particularly with managing the drips off the back of the block) but it does look great when done well. Needs a little more space to be able to work in, a little more time to finish, and you can work on less of them at once, so it could depend on your goals.
for the sides, I've used anything I can get my hands on, at a range of sizes and wood varieties. . Usually I go for something at least 1inch so that it can stand up freely if sat on a table or bookshelf to display. and then for the front panel, it's a 1/4 inch ply board. Even something like MDF should work in it's place, the only thing I wouldn't try is OSB type boards. Thanks for watching and for commenting! Good luck with it.
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Always good info Chris, thanks for helping with all ur replies I have been reading through.. thumbs up and subbed.. you make really beautiful work : ) thanks for sharing.
Hi Paz. Thanks for your comment. When I’m sanding the sides it’s probably using something around 80 grit on the disk sander. When I’m doing it by hand on the top it would have been higher like 120+ for less abrasion and more fine smoothing.
hi rbpankey1, yes, generally whatever I use on the top I will wrap around onto the sides as well. Thanks for watching and leaving your comment! all the best
Great video. Can I ask what wood you're buying for the cradle parts of the panels? I go to Home Depot and never see anything that would be suitable. So much of it is rough grade lumber or I'd have to rip my own strips from a bigger board to cut for the mitred pieces. Thanks.
hey thanks for your comment! yes. my home depot has some fir strips, about 1.25" width, and maybe a 0.75" thickness. buying in something around 6-8 foot lengths. Last I bought them - about $3 each but probably much more than that now. that wood does tend to have have some joinery in it, which isn't always ideal, but it certainly does the trick.
@@cgardinerphoto Thanks, Chris. I see we're both in Ontario. Online at Home Depot I'm not seeing an option for what you're getting where you are. I'll have a closer look and ask next time I'm in the store. Alternatively, to avoid the joinery, I have had some woodworking craftsmen friends suggest some local independent wood suppliers where I might find better wood for these purposes. Sometimes I do yakisugi or staining treatments on the side, so joins are best avoided in that case. Thanks again for the video and happy creating!
thanks for your comment Ella. glad you found it helpful. before I was making them, I bought them at Michael's craft store, in Canada, not sure if they're USA or elsewhere as well. Also, some of the smaller independent art stores carry similar products, but likely something you'd have to locate locally. even some dollar stores seem to carry similar products in the craft supply areas.
What type of DeWALT is that?, for you said it is a staple gun but it looks like it fires a single small nail. Any info on that tool and accessories would be great. Also what wood are you using? Cheers.
Mod Podge is typically available - where I am anyways - at places like dollaramas and Wal-marts. I assume you'd find it at a craft store like Michaels too. You may have better success finding it online if you spell it "Mod Podge" as well. yellow bottle with white and red writing. thanks for watching and leaving a comment, all the best!
Hi great video. My question is what type of paper are you using and was it printed inkjet or laserjet? Do i have to seal lustre photo paper that was printed using inkjet
Hi Chris, I know you did this videos 3 years ago but I was just wondering when you put the glue on to seal the photo the first time do you have to sand it or can you leave it and apply your second coat? Also do you use filler to fill in where the backing comes together with the frame or do you just leave it as is? Excellent video and I've actually started using your technique to mount my own photos in our house. Thank you very much.
Hey Mark. IMHO, you can see a lot of work of this nature with higher price tags that what people may readily pay. Which you can try of course and maybe you'll find your unicorn, but I like to price things in such a way that it will make many people want to buy them with minimal hesitation. Figure out your time and materials, and then add a bit on for yourself. Smallest ones (triptytch of 2x3s I did for about $75 CAD, and larger 11x17 I did for about $300) Also consider if you're putting in a gallery / art shop, to include their cut on top.
Hello Chris 😄🎈 WOW ,, thanks for sharing. I found that ur ideas is much much better than others. Instead of using the wet towel and remove the skin paper just to show the picture.. well this is much better and clean way to follow. Thanks again. Happy Halloween 🎃
3 QUESTIONS: 1)With the ModPodge, which kind (they have several)? I saw an 8 oz. bottle of Medium Clear for a Matte finish. Is this the one to use? 2) You also mentioned something called "Beautitone" (I think) black paint...what kind of paint is that and is there a brand that you'd recommend? and 3) I think you said "22-grit" sandpaper, but couldn't find it. Where can I get that? THANKS Chris, this video was what I'm looking for.
Hey Geoff. 1) I've tried multiple mod podges, but medium clear with matte finish is what I like best. You can try the glossier version but it shows more texture from roller and brush which I don't always like. 2) Beauti tone is a brand name of paint from hardware store, made for walls in your house. I'm sure any paint made for interiors like BEHR or Benjamin Moore, etc, will work fine. I liked using this kind of paint because you get a choice in range of glossiness/finishes and a wide range of colors to choose from. 3) I might have said 22 grit, 22 grit is very coarse though so it takes a lot of wood off. So I know I wouldn't leave a 22 grit as a final sand. Something like 120 grit makes a much smoother finish. Sanding you really cant ruin your whole piece with a little experimentation, so try to get a few range of grits and figure out what effects you like best, or when each grit will work for you. Definitely good to have something in the 40-60 range and something 120 or higher though. Thanks for watching and for your comment - good luck with your work!
After you sand, how do you wipe it down? I applied a photo to wood and used Mod Podge to seal, but ended up with little bubbles in the Mod Podge. I will need to lightly sand to get rid of the bubbles, but have never done this before. Looking for guidance.
Hey Kris, Thanks for your comment. after sanding, usually a good cloth will be sufficient to wipe it down. As for the bubbles, every time I've encountered, it typically had to do with the type of paper I was using being too light/thin. can you share any sort of information on your paper (brand / product name / gsm ). Also there could be something to do with the amount of glue used. It should be thin enough that you can still see wood through the glue and if it's enough that you're noticing small pools, puddles of it, it's probably too much. imagine the amount of glue left behind by a glue stick, and aim for approximately that amount. hopefully that helps. Thanks for watching and for your comment. All the best, this could be a great project for everyone shut indoors now.
that seems to be the main question everyone has. And I don't know which of the things I do help it - the amount of glue (minimal) the heavy weight paper, or the careful application of paper to the glue, ideally in one direction so any air gets pushed forward and not trapped underneath paper. hope that helps!
Hi, this is exactly what I was looking for. I am looking at doing a 20x60 panoramic. Any tips? I'm a little worried about the mod podge drying out on one end before I've coated the wood. Have you done any larger prints like that and had any issues?
Joey, In my experience in applying large artwork like yours of 20 x 60, I first apply a coat of the ModPodge to the wood panel and let it dry completely. Sometimes a light second coat as well if the plywood is a little rough. This "sizing" method makes the paper much easier to apply to the wood, since dry, bare wood immediately absorbs the glue into it's pores, and starts drying out faster than you can work. Similar to installing wallpaper, same approach.
Hey, interesting idea, and well executed. What dimensions are you using for lumber? Is that 1/4' plywood? What about for the framing of the box? 1x2"? And what kind of tacks or brads are you using to attach the wood pieces? Staples? Nails? Are you using wood glue as well?
Hey Madhu, Thanks for your comment. Lumber, I tend to use whatever I have available as scrap. home depot has these $2 strips of fir, maybe 1-1/2" x 1/2", so when I'm not using scrap, thats what I tend to buy. I use brads through the plywood, and brads to pull in the corners on the side. Sometimes I've used staples on the back to straddle where the 45 angles meet but I don't think its necessary really. I have started using wood glue as well, although I didn't in this video. Hope that helps, have fun making your own!
That helps. I'm definitely using this technique soon. Getting my shop all put together. I've borrowed a mitre saw, skill saw, and sander from friends. All I need now are the materials and I'm off to the races. Do you think the photos would mount to particle board or wafer wood? And is that 3/8 plywood you're using? Thanks again! Loved the tutorial.
I worry about Mod Podge not being acid free. I did use it to mount the fine art paper I do my mixed media on. Then I read it isn’t acid free and I worry will it break down the paper over time ?
Good question Janine. You're right that it's not acid free (or so I've heard as well - never actually looked into it). I've not done any truly scientific tests but I have prints going beyond ten years mounted in this format and no visible ill-effects yet. If you're concerned about the aesthetic of your work decades from now, maybe it's best for you to source a more pH balanced adhesive. Personally, in an age where so much is consumed digitally, I'm just happy to have a relatively easy, creative outlet to make a nice looking hard-copy of something.
subcook691 thanks for your comment and for watching. As for sizing - it's a mix. Sometimes depends on how much wood I have to use up and sometimes depends on the prints I already have on paper. I've done everything from 4x6 to 18x24. Mostly non standard sizes. One of the great things about making your own boxes and printing on your own printer.
you can get prints quite large. biggest I've done is about 13x19. getting a clean drop onto the glue will get more and more precarious as the paper size increases I would think.
I'm watching your video as I am trying to find an adhesive to use on wood where the print wont bubble up or basically stay flat. When i saw you use Mod Podge I felt I should add my experience with it. And I have a lot. Depending on the type and brand of paper you are using, you could end up with a great big fail using ModPodge. The paper I use is for prints is Canon Satin Photographic Paper (170 gsm, 36"x100' Roll). Modge Podge will not work on it. In fact, I have yet to find fool proof adhesive that works because I "think" it is because this paper i'm using is not porous.
thanks for sharing your experience Jim! I agree, there's lots of experimentation necessary to find combinations that work in one specific case or another. Do you still get bubbling if you apply the blue sparingly to back of print instead of panel, and then roll it onto the panel, from one side to the other?
Hey would normal digital print work ? I got a print done from office works a shop in aus. read heaps saying won’t work ? What’s your opinion on normal digital prints will they work ? Or do I need just use normal printer? What’s best paper you’ve found
i've used a variety of papers. the one i use most may not be available in australia. It's called "Staples Photo Supreme" very heavyweight. has a good finish on it and it's a nice plain back on it. I've never tried mounting with the type of paper you'd get from a department store photo kiosk, though they do seem pretty smooth finish on the backside, so I don't know if the adhesive would grip and hold them well. One thing you can try (again if you had the option to use a non important tester) is just roughing up the adhesive side with a fine grit of sandpaper like 100 grit or so, just so it has a bit more of something to grip with. that is untested territory for me though so i'm just spitballing here. hopefully that helps.
hi, here's a list; fir strips from home depot - 8ft for about $1.50 wood panel, about $12 for 4/ish square feet stapler and staples, saw, or mitre box and hand saw easy enough too. stapler which is also brad nailer, and brad nails sander 120 grit, and a lower grit if your wood needs more cleaning up hammer paint brush, paint roller, black paint (any) - i've also stained them, mod podge and roller epson 1400 any thick good, photopaper. that is about it. :D good luck with it! and thanks for your comment and for subscribing.
looks like it's worth a shot actually. for the finishing on top anyways. Not sure how it would be as an adhesive. I've never used it. I would start with a cheap wal-mart printed 4x6 and test it on a piece of whatever board you're using for your block. I've tested a lot of methods and most you know pretty quick if it's a good one or not. day or so. only a few problems take longer to show. experiment and don't be afraid to give each piece it's own twist in the finishes.
I've not gone that big with this method so I can't say for certain. Everything that size I've seen is always done with a more solid epoxy resin type of finish. As for building the box, I'd include some more wood for support through the middle to minimize warping over time, and I'd probably step up the gauge of nails from what I've got here too. To apply the print - I'd probably put the paper on the floor display side down, apply glue to the box, and then put the glued box onto the paper instead of other way around - trying to prevent bubbles on that big of scale would be crucial since having to get them out would probably ruin the piece. Again, none of that from experience, just the problems I can imagine arising right away and how i'd try to avoid them.
i've not used metallic finish paper myself, but I'd be inclined to say you should always have a top coat, since it is that extra layer of protection. I'm not sure how well the metallic look will hold up under this type of top coat though, sorry I couldn't be more help. Thanks for watching and your comment though! Good luck.
@@cgardinerphoto thank you anyway. I'm not pro, neither really info photography. I just took some cool photos at Badwater Basin in The Death Valley (California) and wanted to display them in my living room. It turned ok. I used adhesive display foam board and I'll apply protective spray I got in local art shop. Thank you
Hey Abdulaziz, at the time I was using the Epson Stylus 1400. Very old now - hard to find probably, but they have newer versions available for sure. Hopefully they're as good now as this one was then. Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Little help. Doesn’t the wood you’re mounting the photo to have to be smooth? I’m wanting to mount a photo to some reclaimed barn wood 24”long x4”wide strips which are somewhat rough. Thanks
Hi Steve. Thanks for your comment. Barn board will make a great piece with lots of character to it, I’m sure. You’re right about the smoothness for gluing the paper. I’d consider using a ply board for the top (since it will be covered by a print anyways) and save the barn board for the decorative sides only. Or you could sand down the barn board but it may depend on how old and worn down the boards are.
@@cgardinerphoto thanks Chris. I’ve been sitting here all night thinking about that, I swear, about 15 min before I received your reply, I started wondering if some type of thin backing for the photograph wood (pun) work. The wood is not so much worn, just rough grain in need of a good 60 grit sanding, but then that would defeat the purpose. Thanks again.
Did these pictures do ok with this process as I was about to do this....someone told me that it wouldn't work because a regular print would have a chemical reaction and not look good in time....did you find this to be true? I wanted to ask before I went ahead and did it... because I like what you have done and got my pictures printed and wood is ready.
Hi Teresa, Thanks for watching. No complaints with them yet, and they've held up as well and/or better in some cases, versus some other more 'professional' alternatives to the mod podge. If you're ready to go, and excited to do it - I say do it. You'll always be able to find a million reasons not to do something. All you should need is one good reason to do actually do it. :D The feeling from finishing something you're proud of is many times greater than the fear that it 'may have held up better' in twenty years from now.
@@cgardinerphoto Thank You so much...I am so ready but this is a gift for someone and just wanted to check with you first...everyone says laser print but when I saw you did a regular photo I got so excited because that's what I wanted to do in the first place... so I'll get to it. The only things different is I have the Mod Podge Super gloss (One coat finish ) product. I think all the Mod Podge products are basically the same...just this one will have a really glossy finish which is what I was kind of looking for as I painted and also did some wood burning on another portion of this wood so I just wanted it to be really glossy to bring out all the colors and the part with the wood burning.... I am also adding the photo which I will follow your process let dry sand apply another coat ans with that put a coat around the rest of the wood...does this sound like a good plan?
Hi Teresa. Happy to help. Yes that sounds like a great plan. Strange about the laser printing, was that for photo transfers they were talking about? I've never actually seen a color laser print that looked as good as an inkjet photo print, or dye sub for that matter. Wood burning is cool! I actually do that to finish some of my boxes instead of paint as well. I'm sure your finished piece will look great. The one thing with the high gloss mod podge I've found is that you see a lot of the texture from the application in the finished product, so the finest roller you can get is probably a good option. Two coats is a good minimum but it would never really hurt to do more.
@@cgardinerphoto Thank You! Well..it says it's like glass ha ha so we will see. One thing that concerns me it says it takes 4 weeks to cure and I would like to ship it off before 4 weeks......what has been your experience?
I have been using a Walnut Hollow burning tool but might try a little hotter one from TimberlineUSA would also like to try some for the carving tools as well...I am also a photographer (semi-retired) and enjoy doing wood products as add ons or I do them as gifts etc...I enjoy it.
If you're good at keeping a nice smooth finish and no dripping excess paint, then there is no reason why you couldn't spray paint instead. Might even work better in some ways.
In this, I demonstrate with mod podge, but I've used a lot of different options in the past. Mod podge is good because its quick and easy, but something like art resin or envirotex looks way better. IMHO.
Wow this is brilliant!! Thanks for making the choice to share your process. Those of us who make good on this owe a debt of gratitude to you sir.
Glad it was helpful!
I was just sitting down to tackle this very project today when I thought to check youtube for any tips. I'm so thankful I ran across your video, Chris! I appreciate the quality of presentation, the pace, and your willingness to provide all information needed. Thank you so much for sharing! :)
happy to be able to help you Christianne and very happy to hear everything you appreciate about my video. All the best!
Thank you!! Your method is exactly what I’m looking for. I have watched so many photo transfer to wood videos that were more time consuming and mediocre at best. Your did an excellent job of demonstrating. Cheers!!
Just the type of solution I've been looking for: easy, good looking, inexpensive solution. Thanks Chris!
Excellent idea. I have used mod podge for other tasks, such as representing water for dioramas. One trick I learned that might could help for your final top coat would be to thin it a little with water. That would reduce the viscosity and might allow you to smooth it out good enough while rolling it for a single coat. But I totally get why you sand it and then apply the second coat. I do the same when sealing many of my scale models. Makes for a very smooth finish. BTW, the main reason for watching this is because I want to add a small picture to the wooden base of my diorama frame so trying to see the best way to do that.
He said that you dont need to sand it if you use the yellow mod podge, so can you please Tell me what I have to do in exchange if I dont sand it?
@zorawthustra I will be honest I am not sure. I would think you would have to sand allow it unless trying to thin it with water. Can you explain what you are trying to achieve.
Thanks a whole bunch for this video Chris. I was actually looking for something else but ended up watching this video a couple of times :). I'm also a photographer and have prints for sale in a gallery. This mounting project will allow me another avenue for print sales.
I hope its going well for you Ian, thanks for watching and leaving your comment!
Excellent, your steps of mounting the photo on the wood is exactly what I wanted! Thank you :)
happy to have been a help to you! enjoy!
Great I will try now, this very minute. Thanks have a good New Year. From Shropshire in UK
happy to hear that. All the best with it!
Thank you, nice instructions. Clear voice and easy to understand. Thanks again.🎉
glad you like it Lauralee! I appreciate your comment.
Thank you for this! I have been trying to find a video showing a photo printed on an inkjet and not laser jet. This is perfect! Can’t wait to try it!
glad it was helpful, hope its been going well for you if you've given it a shot already.
Thank you very much for the very detailed video Chris. I have been searching for something exactly like this video. I appreciate your dedication, and excellence in making this. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us all. It is much appreciated.
Superb video. Thank you.
thanks for leaving a comment Steven!
Great how-to video, thanks!
Thank you for sharing your step by step process, I consider myself a serious hobby photographer and looking for my next advanced step as my long term plan was to try and sell some of my images, I do sell stock images have been for the past 3 years not enough to say hey I'll quite my day job tho.
I do grade my images as in send seconds off to stock and hang onto the ones that deserve a frame as to say.
Wonderful work ! Pictures are beautiful and you tutorial is very clear. Thank you very much
glad you enjoyed it Aurelien. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing. Great tutorial.
Glad it was helpful!
Greetings from Cape Town - South Africa... Thanks for your tutorial, nice photos...
Francois Groenewald happy to hear you've enjoyed it! Thanks!!
@@cgardinerphoto... If you ever planning a trip to South Africa, you can give me a shout. Would love to connect and show you around one of the most diverse cities in the world, from the beautiful coustlines, to the majestic mountains, to the wine valleys.
a very generous offer! Thank you Francois. I'd love to visit one day but I think it might be a while before I get to travel again, since we've got a 2 year old and a one month old right now.
Nice work, nice taste.
This was a good video. Thanks Chris.
I have a suggestion. I make these boxes and I never use mod podge. I find using a spray adhesive like Gorilla Spray on adhesive or 3M 77 works fast and is a solid adhesive for almost any surface. And is it smooth. And for a sealer, I suggest a mat spray sealer, it goes on smooth and looks flawless, plus its quick drying - about 3 minutes and the results look super professional.
awesome!! thanks for your comment Mullins Toys. I've played with a variety of sealers and adhesives, including some of what you've mentioned and they all have their own set of benefits and drawbacks in my experience.
Would gorilla spray work with a normal photo on photo paper by a print. Shop ? I’m searching for something that I can stick my photo prints onto wood so far says mod podge won’t stick a normal photograph ?
Michael Rhodes personally I've not had great experience with any of the spray adhesives I've used. and when it comes to gorilla brand adhesives (never tried a gorilla spray though) I've actually not liked it at all. Though I haven't used them in this sort of application either. Are you able to get a test piece of paper from your print shop (I'm thinking like one inch square) you can do a trial run onto wood with? My problems with spray adhesives are the fumes for one, and the mess - you're bound to get adhesive on something you don't want it on (sometimes even other parts of your work piece), and in turn create a lot of unnecessary waste doing it. Your mileage may vary though. Good luck and thanks for your comment and for watching!!
@@michaelrhodes9614 Gorilla spray adhesive works incredibly well with photo prints. Works well with any paper actually. I personally do not use mod podge.
Mullins Toys thanks heaps look into it
Thank you very much , very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Chris, I never even thought doing it this way. Especially seeing I have the miter saw.
very good Henry, happy to have given you the idea then!
If I am making several prints or mounting A3+ prints I have found using an inexpensive gravity feed automotive spray gun and mixing the sealant with about 20% water gives a really smooth finish without sanding or worrying about texture. Cleaning the gun takes a couple minutes using clean water.
It’s ok even if you dont sand it? Or you do something else in exchange?
Just the spray. Light coats but no sanding.@@zorawthustra I'm going to try a more viscous mix to lay down the glue between the backing and the print. Kind of like 3M 77 without the toxins.
Great tips. We just bought an Epson EcoTank injet to try this. Do your inkjet colors smear or run when applying yhe sealer?
When you mounted the photograph to the board did you let it dry before you added the topcoat?
hi Jeff, thanks for your question. Yes I did let it dry before top coat. the times I didn't, it seemed I would get more warping and wrinkling in the paper more easily.
I have 10 prints on metallic pearl paper that I need to do this for, and I'm excited and also immensely nervous to do all of this lol
Nice! I did try once with a metallic paper. Was MOAB brand. I seem to remember some soak through of adhesive on back changing the finish on the front (was a while back now). So I’d start with one small one and do the full process. If all goes well - finish the 10 afterward.
@@cgardinerphoto thank you!!!
Much appreciated. Good tutorial and helpful. Will pass on the finish as I’m using archival art paper....possible use a less dramatic finish if needed.....I’ll see how I go. Thanks again.
nice video.. The Mod podge are all the same? to glue the photo and to protected?
thanks for your comment.
Yes, they're the same in most cases. I only ever used the basic modpodge for the adhesive and then experimented with different ones for the top layer. worth trying out whichever varieties you can to find out what you'll like best and what will match your work best.
use timeless varnish, or glamour 2, if you want something a little nicer. they will work as adhesive too.
Great art nice job,keep it up😃👍...
Thank you! Cheers!
You just saved me about $300! Thank you!!!!!
wooo!
Many thanks for this. Very clear and definitely inspires me to try it myself. Thank you!
Wow! U made this look so easy!!! Would you please give more information on the type printer and its paper. Where can one get these.
glad you like it.
I used the Epson Stylus photo 1400 here, its an older printer now. Canon and Epson make great photo printers. Paper - just use the heaviest photo type paper you can find with the finish you like. usually glossy, matte, or some middle ground. I tend to like the ones in the middle of full gloss and full matte.
I heard very good opinions about the Woodglut plans.
I heard you have to pay for those? why would you when this is free? go throw your money away I guess...
Perfect plans Greg
Oh! And great video!! Very helpful to me!!
Nice job
Modern podge is not a waterproof sealer. But they do have an Acrylic spray sealer that is. I use that to finish after two coats of Satin finish. Use the right brush or you get coarser finish with the more wiry ones ...if you don't have a roller.👍
Fantastic projects.Thank youuuuuu
Glad you like them!
Also try a waterbased polycrylic. Don't get the satin finish. Your a bit OCD and I think you will like the outcome of a polycrylic better. I love modpoge too but the polycrylic will help your bank account and feed that OCD need.
thanks for the tip, i'll have a look. and you can call it OCD maybe, I call it precise. haha. (side note, can't believe there is anything easier on the bank account than mod podge!?)
@@cgardinerphoto Yes easy to buy. So it's about 10 bucks right? So is a small can of polycrylic. The polycrylic glaze will make it more of a sellable product. Also you want your art to transcend time for a bit longer. I'm assuming. I found out it's easier to get a more professional and precise look if it dries in a dust free environment. If you find a good way to do it will you let me know. LoL. Take it easy.
Could you do poster paper this same way?, probably dumb question but im dumb when it comes to this
hey Troy. thanks for your comment. If you're thinking of poster paper like of the thickness you'd find in a Wal Mart poster section (thinner materials than the photo paper ive used), I would say experiment first if at all possible, but the thinner papers, did have issues with bubbling more easily, in my experience.
Good luck with it!
hello, these prints are on photographic paper or cotton (fine art) ???
hi Danilo, thanks for your comment. these are on photographic paper
Keep the wide piece of wood against the saw fence to cut small strips off, like the conversation over the video, helpful for meditation. Thanks.
Caught that too. It's a real drag having to stop mid project to pull plywood out of your rib cage. Otherwise, great tutorial.
Your work looks really nice, thanks for sharing you knowledge, would you mind providing description of productos you used like glue to attach picture and the one used to provide protective coat, I want to find similar ones in my countr, thanks again.
Oh PS. Fantastic Job 👍
thanks for your comments Anna!
Great video and nice pics.....
thank you Piero.
Thank you so much for your tip on mounting a photograph to a wood panel. Have you ever thought of putting a high glass varnish instead of Mod Podge on top of that photograph? That is my project coming up.
Hi Mary thanks for your comment. Yes I have done that too. I have a video on here to do with envirotex and I think I have an art resin one up somewhere as well.
All the best with your upcoming project!
Any suggestions to help get a uniform texture? I used the Satin Modpodge on Matte photo paper. It would apply nice with a sponge roller, but then the modpodge would start to pool up on itself, even after several layers of application. I basically had to keep rolling it as it started to dry, but that made it almost impossible to get a consistent finish. I have an acrylic ultra matte varnish that I'm going to try to finish my next one with, but wanted to check to see if you had any suggestions.
hey Samantha. if the modpodge is pooling in any way, you may be applying too much at once. it should be just enough to coat it once over. And give it a chance to dry fully between each application.
Are you using any sandpaper to smooth it out? Once I get a few layers in, I'll give a good light sand with high grit, and then one more finishing coat on that.
I like using art resin as a finish as well.
I am working on a new video to show all the different finishing styles I used and should be coming soon.
Thanks for watching and for commenting!
Hello... was it fevicol the white thing which you used ???
Hi. I had to look up Fevicol on Wikipedia. we don't have that brand here in Canada. It may be similar, but Mod Podge is it's own brand name, it's a craft glue which dries clear and still has adhesive properties.
After keeping it to dries and then applying shine paper on it will it not damage the picture ??
@@subodhrai4481 if you have a very fine grit paper, and have applied at least two thin coats with it completely dried, it should be very difficult to take off so much of the top coat that you start to scratch the picture underneath.
Curious…What kind of paper was used for this?
I used a heavyweight photo paper with a lustre finish. (halfway between matte and gloss basically).
@@cgardinerphoto Cool, thanks!
Love your video I have a question could I use sublimation pics?
thanks for your comment - and is that prints from a dye-sub printer? if so - I'd say yes you should be able to without any issue, but maybe test on a small 2x3 or something first.
@@cgardinerphoto thank you so much I’ll try it and let you know
@@cgardinerphoto thank you very much
Hi, one question. Did you let the modge podge dry on the bottom before doing to top? I'm having an issue with buckling when I apply to modge podge to the top.
Hey Uly. Good question. I probably could have addressed that in the video. Yes I do try to let them dry before top coat.
a few other things you can try; go lighter on your first top coat of mod podge, and just do more coats after that one dries - usually very quick dry time on the top. also, you can try heavier paper, since I think thinner paper will be easier to buckle.
Thank you for sharing this video.. I actually do something like this myself, but on either tile or hard board. Do you find that you get air bubbles when using regular photo paper, and if so, how do you remedy that?
Maria Morrow I don't usually get air bubbles in my process. I'll typically put one edge down and then gradually press across the paper to the opposite side. -- imagine your print was rolled up and you gradually unrolled it across the board if you do it this way you shouldn't be able to trap pockets of air because you're applying the print in one direction while forcing the air out from under it .
Maria Morrow and thanks for your comment and watching my video! I hope it's helped in some way
Thanks a lot for sharing. Video was very helpful.
pretty cool
Appreciate your detailed video but failed to catch type of wood on back is it a solid or 1/2 plywood? Other edge pieces appears to be
1x4s.
for the print back, it was a plywood, 1/4" usually. For the edges, in most cases, I was using fir strips, they had some joinery in them, which I would try not to cut corners on top of but otherwise the price was right, nice size, and they had a nice bevel already.
I often scale up the materials the larger the print size though as well.
Hi-Are you using your own table saws are is there a place where you can rent time on one? I thought I heard you refer to one, but I could not understand what it was you said.
Hi Allen, thanks for your comment. Now I can't remember what it was that I had said on that topic, but I am using my own saws. As for getting things cut down to size for you - when you pick up your materials at somewhere like Home Depot, they'll occasionally be able to cut pieces down to more manageable sizes. But that is the extent of what I am aware of as far as people cutting your material for you.
The 45 angles won't be so nice, but much of what I show here can be accomplished with a jigsaw if table and chop saws are out of the question for you.
@@cgardinerphoto Thanks for such a quick reply - helped.
THANKS Chris for the information. One last question (for now anyway!)...Better to use Art Resin, or go with ModPodge? Art Resin seems pricier, but if you think it gives a better result, I'd like to know. Thanks again and Happy Holidays.
Hi Geoff, Yes I would say that art resin makes a more striking finish. It's a little more work to get it there, and has it's own challenges (particularly with managing the drips off the back of the block) but it does look great when done well. Needs a little more space to be able to work in, a little more time to finish, and you can work on less of them at once, so it could depend on your goals.
Thank you!!
You're welcome!
Good work 👍 thank you 🙏
Welcome 👍
What kind of board are you using for top and sides? Thanks
for the sides, I've used anything I can get my hands on, at a range of sizes and wood varieties. . Usually I go for something at least 1inch so that it can stand up freely if sat on a table or bookshelf to display. and then for the front panel, it's a 1/4 inch ply board. Even something like MDF should work in it's place, the only thing I wouldn't try is OSB type boards.
Thanks for watching and for commenting! Good luck with it.
Always good info Chris, thanks for helping with all ur replies I have been reading through.. thumbs up and subbed.. you make really beautiful work : ) thanks for sharing.
thank you for watching!
Nice love it
Hi what type of sand paper did you use ? Thanks
Hi Paz. Thanks for your comment. When I’m sanding the sides it’s probably using something around 80 grit on the disk sander. When I’m doing it by hand on the top it would have been higher like 120+ for less abrasion and more fine smoothing.
What's the best kind of paper do you use printer or photo paper?
I use photo paper.
Question...Do you apply the glossy modpodge to the sides of your print box? You didn't say so in the video that I remember! Bob
hi rbpankey1, yes, generally whatever I use on the top I will wrap around onto the sides as well.
Thanks for watching and leaving your comment! all the best
Thank you so much
Thanks.. Great video.. I put my 12x18 image on MDF but used your technique.
Brad Warren awesome!
awesome! I find the bigger the print, the more challenging it gets. Good luck with it Brad!
Great video. Can I ask what wood you're buying for the cradle parts of the panels? I go to Home Depot and never see anything that would be suitable. So much of it is rough grade lumber or I'd have to rip my own strips from a bigger board to cut for the mitred pieces. Thanks.
hey thanks for your comment! yes.
my home depot has some fir strips, about 1.25" width, and maybe a 0.75" thickness. buying in something around 6-8 foot lengths. Last I bought them - about $3 each but probably much more than that now.
that wood does tend to have have some joinery in it, which isn't always ideal, but it certainly does the trick.
@@cgardinerphoto Thanks, Chris. I see we're both in Ontario. Online at Home Depot I'm not seeing an option for what you're getting where you are. I'll have a closer look and ask next time I'm in the store. Alternatively, to avoid the joinery, I have had some woodworking craftsmen friends suggest some local independent wood suppliers where I might find better wood for these purposes. Sometimes I do yakisugi or staining treatments on the side, so joins are best avoided in that case. Thanks again for the video and happy creating!
Great tutorial- Question though, before you started making your own panels where did you purchase them?
thanks for your comment Ella. glad you found it helpful.
before I was making them, I bought them at Michael's craft store, in Canada, not sure if they're USA or elsewhere as well.
Also, some of the smaller independent art stores carry similar products, but likely something you'd have to locate locally.
even some dollar stores seem to carry similar products in the craft supply areas.
What bradnailer are you using?
What type of DeWALT is that?, for you said it is a staple gun but it looks like it fires a single small nail. Any info on that tool and accessories would be great. Also what wood are you using? Cheers.
i believe its a stanley brad nailer, fires single brad nails or staples. very convenient for this work.
What is “MODGE PODGE”? Seriously, show the container. Where is this product available?
Mod Podge is typically available - where I am anyways - at places like dollaramas and Wal-marts. I assume you'd find it at a craft store like Michaels too. You may have better success finding it online if you spell it "Mod Podge" as well. yellow bottle with white and red writing. thanks for watching and leaving a comment, all the best!
Hi great video. My question is what type of paper are you using and was it printed inkjet or laserjet? Do i have to seal lustre photo paper that was printed using inkjet
hey, thanks for your questions. I have been using photographic paper - usually lustre or satin finishes - printed from an inkjet printer.
Appreciate your reply
thank you! what material was the picture printed on?
i did regular heavyweight photo paper
Hi Chris, I know you did this videos 3 years ago but I was just wondering when you put the glue on to seal the photo the first time do you have to sand it or can you leave it and apply your second coat? Also do you use filler to fill in where the backing comes together with the frame or do you just leave it as is? Excellent video and I've actually started using your technique to mount my own photos in our house. Thank you very much.
Excellent tutorial Chris. Do you have any recommendations on pricing for these types of prints?
Hey Mark. IMHO, you can see a lot of work of this nature with higher price tags that what people may readily pay. Which you can try of course and maybe you'll find your unicorn, but I like to price things in such a way that it will make many people want to buy them with minimal hesitation. Figure out your time and materials, and then add a bit on for yourself. Smallest ones (triptytch of 2x3s I did for about $75 CAD, and larger 11x17 I did for about $300) Also consider if you're putting in a gallery / art shop, to include their cut on top.
and thanks for your comment!
Hello Chris 😄🎈 WOW ,, thanks for sharing. I found that ur ideas is much much better than others. Instead of using the wet towel and remove the skin paper just to show the picture.. well this is much better and clean way to follow. Thanks again. Happy Halloween 🎃
3 QUESTIONS: 1)With the ModPodge, which kind (they have several)? I saw an 8 oz. bottle of Medium Clear for a Matte finish. Is this the one to use? 2) You also mentioned something called "Beautitone" (I think) black paint...what kind of paint is that and is there a brand that you'd recommend? and 3) I think you said "22-grit" sandpaper, but couldn't find it. Where can I get that? THANKS Chris, this video was what I'm looking for.
Hey Geoff.
1) I've tried multiple mod podges, but medium clear with matte finish is what I like best. You can try the glossier version but it shows more texture from roller and brush which I don't always like.
2) Beauti tone is a brand name of paint from hardware store, made for walls in your house. I'm sure any paint made for interiors like BEHR or Benjamin Moore, etc, will work fine. I liked using this kind of paint because you get a choice in range of glossiness/finishes and a wide range of colors to choose from.
3) I might have said 22 grit, 22 grit is very coarse though so it takes a lot of wood off. So I know I wouldn't leave a 22 grit as a final sand. Something like 120 grit makes a much smoother finish. Sanding you really cant ruin your whole piece with a little experimentation, so try to get a few range of grits and figure out what effects you like best, or when each grit will work for you. Definitely good to have something in the 40-60 range and something 120 or higher though.
Thanks for watching and for your comment - good luck with your work!
After you sand, how do you wipe it down? I applied a photo to wood and used Mod Podge to seal, but ended up with little bubbles in the Mod Podge. I will need to lightly sand to get rid of the bubbles, but have never done this before. Looking for guidance.
Hey Kris, Thanks for your comment.
after sanding, usually a good cloth will be sufficient to wipe it down. As for the bubbles, every time I've encountered, it typically had to do with the type of paper I was using being too light/thin. can you share any sort of information on your paper (brand / product name / gsm ).
Also there could be something to do with the amount of glue used. It should be thin enough that you can still see wood through the glue and if it's enough that you're noticing small pools, puddles of it, it's probably too much. imagine the amount of glue left behind by a glue stick, and aim for approximately that amount. hopefully that helps.
Thanks for watching and for your comment. All the best, this could be a great project for everyone shut indoors now.
How do you get it not to bubble? I have an issue with mine bubbling
that seems to be the main question everyone has. And I don't know which of the things I do help it - the amount of glue (minimal) the heavy weight paper, or the careful application of paper to the glue, ideally in one direction so any air gets pushed forward and not trapped underneath paper. hope that helps!
Hi, this is exactly what I was looking for. I am looking at doing a 20x60 panoramic. Any tips? I'm a little worried about the mod podge drying out on one end before I've coated the wood. Have you done any larger prints like that and had any issues?
Joey, In my experience in applying large artwork like yours of 20 x 60, I first apply a coat of the ModPodge to the wood panel and let it dry completely. Sometimes a light second coat as well if the plywood is a little rough. This "sizing" method makes the paper much easier to apply to the wood, since dry, bare wood immediately absorbs the glue into it's pores, and starts drying out faster than you can work. Similar to installing wallpaper, same approach.
Hey, interesting idea, and well executed. What dimensions are you using for lumber? Is that 1/4' plywood? What about for the framing of the box? 1x2"? And what kind of tacks or brads are you using to attach the wood pieces? Staples? Nails? Are you using wood glue as well?
Hey Madhu,
Thanks for your comment. Lumber, I tend to use whatever I have available as scrap. home depot has these $2 strips of fir, maybe 1-1/2" x 1/2", so when I'm not using scrap, thats what I tend to buy.
I use brads through the plywood, and brads to pull in the corners on the side. Sometimes I've used staples on the back to straddle where the 45 angles meet but I don't think its necessary really.
I have started using wood glue as well, although I didn't in this video. Hope that helps, have fun making your own!
That helps. I'm definitely using this technique soon. Getting my shop all put together. I've borrowed a mitre saw, skill saw, and sander from friends. All I need now are the materials and I'm off to the races. Do you think the photos would mount to particle board or wafer wood? And is that 3/8 plywood you're using? Thanks again! Loved the tutorial.
Did you seal the photo side with clear acrylic before you mounted it or will the mod podge not smear it.
for my paper and ink combination, there was no sealing needed and haven't encountered smudging.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What type of coater did you use? If I might ask... Thanks
I worry about Mod Podge not being acid free. I did use it to mount the fine art paper I do my mixed media on. Then I read it isn’t acid free and I worry will it break down the paper over time ?
Good question Janine. You're right that it's not acid free (or so I've heard as well - never actually looked into it). I've not done any truly scientific tests but I have prints going beyond ten years mounted in this format and no visible ill-effects yet. If you're concerned about the aesthetic of your work decades from now, maybe it's best for you to source a more pH balanced adhesive. Personally, in an age where so much is consumed digitally, I'm just happy to have a relatively easy, creative outlet to make a nice looking hard-copy of something.
This is an awesome video! If I may ask, what size do you make the boxes? 5x7, 4x6, 8x10 or a mix?
subcook691 thanks for your comment and for watching. As for sizing - it's a mix. Sometimes depends on how much wood I have to use up and sometimes depends on the prints I already have on paper. I've done everything from 4x6 to 18x24. Mostly non standard sizes. One of the great things about making your own boxes and printing on your own printer.
What's the biggest photos can be printed?
you can get prints quite large. biggest I've done is about 13x19. getting a clean drop onto the glue will get more and more precarious as the paper size increases I would think.
excellent idea nice work...
Thanks Bill! Glad you enjoyed the video.
I'm watching your video as I am trying to find an adhesive to use on wood where the print wont bubble up or basically stay flat. When i saw you use Mod Podge I felt I should add my experience with it. And I have a lot. Depending on the type and brand of paper you are using, you could end up with a great big fail using ModPodge. The paper I use is for prints is Canon Satin Photographic Paper (170 gsm, 36"x100' Roll). Modge Podge will not work on it. In fact, I have yet to find fool proof adhesive that works because I "think" it is because this paper i'm using is not porous.
thanks for sharing your experience Jim! I agree, there's lots of experimentation necessary to find combinations that work in one specific case or another. Do you still get bubbling if you apply the blue sparingly to back of print instead of panel, and then roll it onto the panel, from one side to the other?
What printer and ink do you use?
that was epson 1400.
Hey would normal digital print work ? I got a print done from office works a shop in aus. read heaps saying won’t work ? What’s your opinion on normal digital prints will they work ? Or do I need just use normal printer? What’s best paper you’ve found
i've used a variety of papers. the one i use most may not be available in australia. It's called "Staples Photo Supreme" very heavyweight. has a good finish on it and it's a nice plain back on it. I've never tried mounting with the type of paper you'd get from a department store photo kiosk, though they do seem pretty smooth finish on the backside, so I don't know if the adhesive would grip and hold them well. One thing you can try (again if you had the option to use a non important tester) is just roughing up the adhesive side with a fine grit of sandpaper like 100 grit or so, just so it has a bit more of something to grip with. that is untested territory for me though so i'm just spitballing here. hopefully that helps.
Might rough one up see how it goes thanks heaps bud
Great video, could you please elaborate the list of things you used in this video? Also which type of printer and paper ? Just trying to make sure...
hi, here's a list;
fir strips from home depot - 8ft for about $1.50
wood panel, about $12 for 4/ish square feet
stapler and staples,
saw, or mitre box and hand saw easy enough too.
stapler which is also brad nailer, and brad nails
sander 120 grit, and a lower grit if your wood needs more cleaning up
hammer
paint brush, paint roller, black paint (any) - i've also stained them,
mod podge and roller
epson 1400
any thick good, photopaper.
that is about it. :D
good luck with it! and thanks for your comment and for subscribing.
Would minwax polycrylic work instead of mod podge?
looks like it's worth a shot actually. for the finishing on top anyways. Not sure how it would be as an adhesive. I've never used it. I would start with a cheap wal-mart printed 4x6 and test it on a piece of whatever board you're using for your block. I've tested a lot of methods and most you know pretty quick if it's a good one or not. day or so. only a few problems take longer to show. experiment and don't be afraid to give each piece it's own twist in the finishes.
does this scale easily to a poster of 200x140 cm?
I've not gone that big with this method so I can't say for certain. Everything that size I've seen is always done with a more solid epoxy resin type of finish. As for building the box, I'd include some more wood for support through the middle to minimize warping over time, and I'd probably step up the gauge of nails from what I've got here too. To apply the print - I'd probably put the paper on the floor display side down, apply glue to the box, and then put the glued box onto the paper instead of other way around - trying to prevent bubbles on that big of scale would be crucial since having to get them out would probably ruin the piece. Again, none of that from experience, just the problems I can imagine arising right away and how i'd try to avoid them.
Great video! If my print has metallic finish or lustre finish, would I still need top layer?
i've not used metallic finish paper myself, but I'd be inclined to say you should always have a top coat, since it is that extra layer of protection. I'm not sure how well the metallic look will hold up under this type of top coat though, sorry I couldn't be more help.
Thanks for watching and your comment though! Good luck.
@@cgardinerphoto thank you anyway. I'm not pro, neither really info photography. I just took some cool photos at Badwater Basin in The Death Valley (California) and wanted to display them in my living room. It turned ok. I used adhesive display foam board and I'll apply protective spray I got in local art shop.
Thank you
Hey chris...
what kind of printer you use?
Hey Abdulaziz, at the time I was using the Epson Stylus 1400. Very old now - hard to find probably, but they have newer versions available for sure. Hopefully they're as good now as this one was then.
Thanks for your comment and for watching!
Thank you for being kind ❤️
Have a good day ❤️
Little help. Doesn’t the wood you’re mounting the photo to have to be smooth? I’m wanting to mount a photo to some reclaimed barn wood 24”long x4”wide strips which are somewhat rough. Thanks
Hi Steve. Thanks for your comment. Barn board will make a great piece with lots of character to it, I’m sure. You’re right about the smoothness for gluing the paper.
I’d consider using a ply board for the top (since it will be covered by a print anyways) and save the barn board for the decorative sides only.
Or you could sand down the barn board but it may depend on how old and worn down the boards are.
@@cgardinerphoto thanks Chris. I’ve been sitting here all night thinking about that, I swear, about 15 min before I received your reply, I started wondering if some type of thin backing for the photograph wood (pun) work. The wood is not so much worn, just rough grain in need of a good 60 grit sanding, but then that would defeat the purpose. Thanks again.
What type of printer are you using?
Thank for he video too, very informative!
i used an epson 1400 for several years, including at the time I made this. Thanks for watching and for your comment.
Did these pictures do ok with this process as I was about to do this....someone told me that it wouldn't work because a regular print would have a chemical reaction and not look good in time....did you find this to be true? I wanted to ask before I went ahead and did it... because I like what you have done and got my pictures printed and wood is ready.
Hi Teresa, Thanks for watching. No complaints with them yet, and they've held up as well and/or better in some cases, versus some other more 'professional' alternatives to the mod podge. If you're ready to go, and excited to do it - I say do it. You'll always be able to find a million reasons not to do something. All you should need is one good reason to do actually do it. :D The feeling from finishing something you're proud of is many times greater than the fear that it 'may have held up better' in twenty years from now.
@@cgardinerphoto Thank You so much...I am so ready but this is a gift for someone and just wanted to check with you first...everyone says laser print but when I saw you did a regular photo I got so excited because that's what I wanted to do in the first place... so I'll get to it. The only things different is I have the Mod Podge Super gloss (One coat finish ) product. I think all the Mod Podge products are basically the same...just this one will have a really glossy finish which is what I was kind of looking for as I painted and also did some wood burning on another portion of this wood so I just wanted it to be really glossy to bring out all the colors and the part with the wood burning.... I am also adding the photo which I will follow your process let dry sand apply another coat ans with that put a coat around the rest of the wood...does this sound like a good plan?
Hi Teresa. Happy to help. Yes that sounds like a great plan. Strange about the laser printing, was that for photo transfers they were talking about? I've never actually seen a color laser print that looked as good as an inkjet photo print, or dye sub for that matter.
Wood burning is cool! I actually do that to finish some of my boxes instead of paint as well. I'm sure your finished piece will look great. The one thing with the high gloss mod podge I've found is that you see a lot of the texture from the application in the finished product, so the finest roller you can get is probably a good option. Two coats is a good minimum but it would never really hurt to do more.
@@cgardinerphoto Thank You! Well..it says it's like glass ha ha so we will see. One thing that concerns me it says it takes 4 weeks to cure and I would like to ship it off before 4 weeks......what has been your experience?
I have been using a Walnut Hollow burning tool but might try a little hotter one from TimberlineUSA would also like to try some for the carving tools as well...I am also a photographer (semi-retired) and enjoy doing wood products as add ons or I do them as gifts etc...I enjoy it.
Would spray painting the wood change the results or affect?
If you're good at keeping a nice smooth finish and no dripping excess paint, then there is no reason why you couldn't spray paint instead. Might even work better in some ways.
nice work,what is the liquid for use coat
In this, I demonstrate with mod podge, but I've used a lot of different options in the past. Mod podge is good because its quick and easy, but something like art resin or envirotex looks way better. IMHO.
oh and thanks for watching and for your comment!