As you say Steve, the Martin dado approach is extremely accurate. I use a custom blade that does not require any setup except for a change to the blade/computer inventory and a slight change move to a scribed mark on the stop on the left side of the blade. It is amazing to be able to do the steps with the Martin dado computer and it is a perfect fit (if you have true wood). If you do beam work or fancy mail box posts, the Martin really shines.
Thanks Steve, I just got a Martin T60 and your video really helped with how to do dado's on the saw. People had mentioned the computerized method but you made it very easy to understand. I replaced a Felder slider with this on. Cannot compare with the fit n finish of the Martin.
Tony Spotorno which Felder slider did you have? I have been looking at the Felder 700 series, but I am also giving the Felder Format 400 series some serious consideration assuming I can get over the bad case of sticker shock it gave me. What made you want to upgrade to the Martin from your Felder?
I had the K700S. The saw did not come calibrated from the factory... After spending several hours myself, I ended up flying out a factory tech to attempt to calibrate the table and fences. He spent hours and it never got to my satisfaction really. The dust collection is not great. The rip fence adjustment is on the Martin is much easier to use, and when you move the cross cut fence it snaps back to it's original position without having to realign everything again...
Interesting. My crosscut fence on my (small) K700P came with stops so that it can be easily returned to 0" and 90 degrees without any trouble. It also came factory calibrated. Delivered at the end of February this year. No idea if the DC is better or worse than the Martin. It's not as good as I want, but it's better than the old Delta I used to have. Hard to tell. I do really like the rip fence adjustment on the Martin in this series. It keeps you on the correct side of the tool, so no walking over to manually adjust the fence.
Having a few Felder machines and a Martin sliding table saw; the Martin has enclosed servo motor-screw adjustment as its main thrust (no maintenance). The Felder machines have a less expensive approach that can give you pain if you do not maintain with grease. The general fit and finish of the Martin even surpasses that of the Altendorf models I have examined. If you can keep track of maintenance, the latest model Felders will do just fine except for fitting the 700 series and I believe the Format4 with the larger blades and still have room for the scoring blade. Check it out. The layout on the Martin saw allows a 400MM dia with scoring blade in position. I rarely use the scoring but that 4 X 8 sheet with a face side of walnut or oak really needs the score blade. You will find the sliding table on the Martin to be superior and the general beef of the machine has command.
Hi Steve, Thank you for making this line of Videos. I am in the market for a sliding table saw in the next year and your information is very educational, I have watched all of them and several of the others on your channel. A Martin is likely out of my budget unless I can find a nice used one.
Hi Mark, I am glad you are finding the information useful. It is always good to hear feedback one way or the other. I completely understand the budget thing and the used market is often hit or miss. If looking for used, patience is the key and if a good deal shows up on a machine in good condition, act quickly as they don't last long. Steve
Steve; I have a simpler model T60 classic with dig parallel outrig and the dig fence with same program you have. I have the flat fence on the rigger. I find the multiple groove program is top of the line for finger jointed boxes. Have you set your saw for larger run wood boxes with finger joints? I think you mentioned your box work in another video. One project over here in the shop is 9600 walnut board cuts and with the T60 program-multiple grooves I can knock it out in 3 days. the fit is good as long as the wood is true and the blade is sharp.
Hi Steve, can you use a dial a dado blade on a slider? I think there might be some interference but I am interested if you have tried using such a blade and what you think of those. Thanks.
Hi Joe. I had a Freud SD608 dado set when I had my Unisaw and it was a superb set that usually got the setup correct the first time. It would not work on either the Felder or Martin saws because of the arbor size and dual pins in the arbor which would severely limit the adjustment of the dado width. I could also see how the adjustment ring may be an interference problem with the dust collection cover over the blade (I just never got that far). In the US, the only slider that I am aware of that such a dado stack may work on is the Minimax which has a 5/8" arbor and no blade pins. If you are interested in that line of machine, I would suggest calling Sam Blasco (or heading over to his UA-cam channel( ua-cam.com/channels/lnXdL8DGhsXQsV3_QnboGQ.html ). I am pretty sure he uses a dado stack on his MInimax combo and likely knows the answer to your question. Steve
how far apart are your securing pins of the arbor from centre to centre of the pins? a machine that well build should probably have the pins set apart so that they can use the biggest variety of blades on your saw. im just really curious. hope that you can help me.
Thanks Scott. I do make dados using the router either with the routertable or handheld using a guide. Where possible, I will always default to the adjustable groover on the shaper. Steve
Impressive saw and as always great video! When choosing Martin did you consider any other European manufacture such as Felder, etc ? Thanks for posting.
Thanks Richard. I looked at both Felder and Altendorf before going the Martin route. For anyone considering a slider I do recommend going to a show such as the IWF or AWFS to see the various options first hand. Having the makes you are considering all under one roof helps the decision making considerably. I think I visited the Martin booth 3 or 4 times asking various questions that I hadn't thought of after looking at the other makes. Steve
Would love to hear your questions, the answers you got, and what made you decide on the martin. I am looking at Felder/Martin, etc. and have to decide.
Howard, that is an interesting story that was about 10 years ago. I don't remember the specific questions but what I do remember is this. Martin had a technical representative (an older gentleman from Germany) and he went over the machines features in detail. We started with the T60 Basic and then on to the T60 Classic. He just simply addressed my questions and was very patient with me. Overall, the Martin just fit the bill for me better than the others with the deciding factor being the rip fence operation from the operator side of the machine and the computer interface. After looking at the machines and how the features addressed my needs, I was armed with the information I needed to make the best decision for me. Steve
Hi Steve, your work is perfect and videos are very useful. Only one thing I cannot understand, why use imperial and metric system in same project, video e.t.c. Using only metric system Is simple for application, realization, imagination..... much easier than 1/3, 1/16, 1/7.....sorry little off topic but I must to ask. Best wishes
Steve, thank you for this great series on sliding table saws. I have an entry level Hammer K3 and, despite the dado tooling, find the process of cutting dadoes complicated and time consuming. Are you cutting the majority of your dadoes using your slider or on another piece of equipment? Thanks again.
Thanks Mo. Most of my dados are for drawer or small box construction and I cut them on the shaper using adjustable groovers. The adjustable groover is a split cutter with shims to adjust cutting width and is much the same as the Felder and Hammer dado sets. If I have need for a one off or short run of dados that cannot be performed on the shaper, I will use the saw or the router. Steve
Thanks for the reply Steve. I've also been resorting to using the router table and a 1/4 inch grooving bit for my drawer boxes (lock rabbet joint on 1/2 inch baltic birch ply), and a handheld router and guide for my wider cabinet dadoes. I was actually wondering if it was worthwhile to purchase a used cabinet or hybrid table saw and dedicate it to dado tooling. Shop space is really the limiting factor (as it is for all of us). Again, many thanks for your excellent channel.
I have been operating horizontal and vertical panel saws for 15 or more years. smci, altendorf, holtzer. but I just got a t75 prefex in the shop a month or so and hands down perfection. Smoothest fastest to change or maniplate to difrent cutting apictions. I have used the cross cut fence to cut cove cut crown mold. like butter even with shit tooling. it out performs any saw I've ever touched. like all machines it has some limitations but nothing to cry to hard about. if the money is to much it's understandable but I've had new saw out the crate suck balls. so gamble all u won't with your money. don't get me started on edge banders
Hi Dennis, the blade used in the video for that operation was a Forrest WWII with a #1 OD tooth style (WW10401125). It makes a flat bottom and clean cuts but it should at its price point. Fortunately, I picked this up used with a bunch of other blades so it didn't hurt as badly. Steve
As you say Steve, the Martin dado approach is extremely accurate. I use a custom blade that does not require any setup except for a change to the blade/computer inventory and a slight change move to a scribed mark on the stop on the left side of the blade. It is amazing to be able to do the steps with the Martin dado computer and it is a perfect fit (if you have true wood). If you do beam work or fancy mail box posts, the Martin really shines.
Thanks Steve, I just got a Martin T60 and your video really helped with how to do dado's on the saw. People had mentioned the computerized method but you made it very easy to understand.
I replaced a Felder slider with this on. Cannot compare with the fit n finish of the Martin.
Hi Tony, thanks for the feedback. It is hard to judge just how much detail to go into on the videos so your feedback is helpful. Steve
Tony Spotorno which Felder slider did you have? I have been looking at the Felder 700 series, but I am also giving the Felder Format 400 series some serious consideration assuming I can get over the bad case of sticker shock it gave me. What made you want to upgrade to the Martin from your Felder?
I had the K700S. The saw did not come calibrated from the factory... After spending several hours myself, I ended up flying out a factory tech to attempt to calibrate the table and fences. He spent hours and it never got to my satisfaction really. The dust collection is not great. The rip fence adjustment is on the Martin is much easier to use, and when you move the cross cut fence it snaps back to it's original position without having to realign everything again...
Interesting. My crosscut fence on my (small) K700P came with stops so that it can be easily returned to 0" and 90 degrees without any trouble. It also came factory calibrated. Delivered at the end of February this year.
No idea if the DC is better or worse than the Martin. It's not as good as I want, but it's better than the old Delta I used to have. Hard to tell.
I do really like the rip fence adjustment on the Martin in this series. It keeps you on the correct side of the tool, so no walking over to manually adjust the fence.
Having a few Felder machines and a Martin sliding table saw; the Martin has enclosed servo motor-screw adjustment as its main thrust (no maintenance). The Felder machines have a less expensive approach that can give you pain if you do not maintain with grease. The general fit and finish of the Martin even surpasses that of the Altendorf models I have examined. If you can keep track of maintenance, the latest model Felders will do just fine except for fitting the 700 series and I believe the Format4 with the larger blades and still have room for the scoring blade. Check it out. The layout on the Martin saw allows a 400MM dia with scoring blade in position. I rarely use the scoring but that 4 X 8 sheet with a face side of walnut or oak really needs the score blade. You will find the sliding table on the Martin to be superior and the general beef of the machine has command.
Hi Steve, Thank you for making this line of Videos. I am in the market for a sliding table saw in the next year and your information is very educational, I have watched all of them and several of the others on your channel. A Martin is likely out of my budget unless I can find a nice used one.
Hi Mark, I am glad you are finding the information useful. It is always good to hear feedback one way or the other. I completely understand the budget thing and the used market is often hit or miss. If looking for used, patience is the key and if a good deal shows up on a machine in good condition, act quickly as they don't last long. Steve
Steve; I have a simpler model T60 classic with dig parallel outrig and the dig fence with same program you have. I have the flat fence on the rigger. I find the multiple groove program is top of the line for finger jointed boxes. Have you set your saw for larger run wood boxes with finger joints? I think you mentioned your box work in another video. One project over here in the shop is 9600 walnut board cuts and with the T60 program-multiple grooves I can knock it out in 3 days. the fit is good as long as the wood is true and the blade is sharp.
Hi Steve, can you use a dial a dado blade on a slider? I think there might be some interference but I am interested if you have tried using such a blade and what you think of those. Thanks.
Hi Joe. I had a Freud SD608 dado set when I had my Unisaw and it was a superb set that usually got the setup correct the first time. It would not work on either the Felder or Martin saws because of the arbor size and dual pins in the arbor which would severely limit the adjustment of the dado width. I could also see how the adjustment ring may be an interference problem with the dust collection cover over the blade (I just never got that far). In the US, the only slider that I am aware of that such a dado stack may work on is the Minimax which has a 5/8" arbor and no blade pins. If you are interested in that line of machine, I would suggest calling Sam Blasco (or heading over to his UA-cam channel( ua-cam.com/channels/lnXdL8DGhsXQsV3_QnboGQ.html ). I am pretty sure he uses a dado stack on his MInimax combo and likely knows the answer to your question. Steve
how far apart are your securing pins of the arbor from centre to centre of the pins? a machine that well build should probably have the pins set apart so that they can use the biggest variety of blades on your saw. im just really curious. hope that you can help me.
Hi Steve, Thanks for sharing another informative video. Do you do any dados when required with a router as well? Thanks. Scott
Thanks Scott. I do make dados using the router either with the routertable or handheld using a guide. Where possible, I will always default to the adjustable groover on the shaper. Steve
Impressive saw and as always great video! When choosing Martin did you consider any other European manufacture such as Felder, etc ? Thanks for posting.
Thanks Richard. I looked at both Felder and Altendorf before going the Martin route. For anyone considering a slider I do recommend going to a show such as the IWF or AWFS to see the various options first hand. Having the makes you are considering all under one roof helps the decision making considerably. I think I visited the Martin booth 3 or 4 times asking various questions that I hadn't thought of after looking at the other makes. Steve
Would love to hear your questions, the answers you got, and what made you decide on the martin. I am looking at Felder/Martin, etc. and have to decide.
Howard, that is an interesting story that was about 10 years ago. I don't remember the specific questions but what I do remember is this. Martin had a technical representative (an older gentleman from Germany) and he went over the machines features in detail. We started with the T60 Basic and then on to the T60 Classic. He just simply addressed my questions and was very patient with me. Overall, the Martin just fit the bill for me better than the others with the deciding factor being the rip fence operation from the operator side of the machine and the computer interface. After looking at the machines and how the features addressed my needs, I was armed with the information I needed to make the best decision for me. Steve
Thanks, much appreciated.
Hi Steve, your work is perfect and videos are very useful. Only one thing I cannot understand, why use imperial and metric system in same project, video e.t.c. Using only metric system Is simple for application, realization, imagination..... much easier than 1/3, 1/16, 1/7.....sorry little off topic but I must to ask.
Best wishes
The Forrest box set I have is only imperial. I normally work 100% metric.
Steve, thank you for this great series on sliding table saws. I have an entry level Hammer K3 and, despite the dado tooling, find the process of cutting dadoes complicated and time consuming. Are you cutting the majority of your dadoes using your slider or on another piece of equipment? Thanks again.
Thanks Mo. Most of my dados are for drawer or small box construction and I cut them on the shaper using adjustable groovers. The adjustable groover is a split cutter with shims to adjust cutting width and is much the same as the Felder and Hammer dado sets. If I have need for a one off or short run of dados that cannot be performed on the shaper, I will use the saw or the router. Steve
Thanks for the reply Steve. I've also been resorting to using the router table and a 1/4 inch grooving bit for my drawer boxes (lock rabbet joint on 1/2 inch baltic birch ply), and a handheld router and guide for my wider cabinet dadoes. I was actually wondering if it was worthwhile to purchase a used cabinet or hybrid table saw and dedicate it to dado tooling. Shop space is really the limiting factor (as it is for all of us). Again, many thanks for your excellent channel.
I have been operating horizontal and vertical panel saws for 15 or more years. smci, altendorf, holtzer. but I just got a t75 prefex in the shop a month or so and hands down perfection. Smoothest fastest to change or maniplate to difrent cutting apictions. I have used the cross cut fence to cut cove cut crown mold. like butter even with shit tooling. it out performs any saw I've ever touched. like all machines it has some limitations but nothing to cry to hard about. if the money is to much it's understandable but I've had new saw out the crate suck balls. so gamble all u won't with your money. don't get me started on edge banders
Hi Heath, you have one awesome machine. Steve
Steve, What blade do you use for your digital fence saw blade dados? Are you using a rip-blade to get a flat bottom on the dado?
Hi Dennis, the blade used in the video for that operation was a Forrest WWII with a #1 OD tooth style (WW10401125). It makes a flat bottom and clean cuts but it should at its price point. Fortunately, I picked this up used with a bunch of other blades so it didn't hurt as badly. Steve