It's SOOOO disturbing that Gosha can be totally boycotted and shunned from one suspect and one anonymous poster while James Charles has at least 15 credible accusations and he's still out here thriving.
@@МаруЦубеphobia is apllicable only when the fear is unreasonable. When Russia constantly threatens to bomb everything and everyone from western EU, to baltic states, to Berlin, to New York, the fear is very much warranted.
I've gotten to the point where I watch all of your videos whether I know the designer or not. Your take towards the end was really interesting, its crazy how the algorithm seems to reward negativity across the board. Thank you again for an insightful and well researched piece.
I dont even know if its only the algorithm? The news focuses on negative or fearful stories too, it predates algorithms because we as humans are more drawn to that and I dont know why
@@understitchYTI think because holding onto negatives is part of our survival mechanisms. Negative stuff might hurt us, so we have to remember it so we can avoid it next time. We're drawn to that kind of knowledge because we want to be prepared. But now that negativity can be more than just that which relates to our survival, it can be gossip about people we don't know too, but we still seem to be inherently interested in it
Thank you so much for sharing this research! My graduation thesis was about how Gosha, Demna, and Lotta illuminated the subculture of post-Soviet "gopniki" from the shadows into the spotlight of our times. Amidst the encroachment of war, Central Asia now stands at the crossroads, transitioning from the "post-Soviet" context to the path of "new regional integration" I think. And I'm eagerly anticipating how this trio will gracefully shape the future of mainstream aesthetics. The thoughtful debate on fashion media in the conclusion resonates with me as well, this is one of the best video I have watched from you 🙌🙌🙌
Ah I could have done with you in the research for this!! It was so so hard to find any reviews or thoughts on his early work at all, and I was googling and searching in englsh and russian simultaneously 😂
This is one of the BEST UA-cam channels out here. I can’t get enough. Quality. Research. Objective outtakes. And even some self critique. You were born for this!
This series really helps me learn more on fashion and fashion history definitely an interesting one. (Also u did my favourite brand justice so extra points) I’d love to see you do a video on alaïa it seems so rich in history and i feel not enough people know about it.
Gosha trousers and knits were unmatched. Perfect middle ground aesthethic of being "put together" but also being laid back and cool. Also GR-Uniforma Mephistos were seriously underrated and if they were released now would probably sell quite well. Very much looking forward to his new work
Exceptional as always. You're so well-read and researched - I've been obsessed with your videos for the past few weeks. I have learned a TONNE. They MUST take a while to make; do you work in the industry? I'm curious as to how you achieve this degree of familiarity!
Currently Im not in the industry, I have before but I never found a role that stuck. Ive just truly always had a fascination both with fashion and with retail, so Ive been reading on it since I was a child (back when the business of fashion was free 😶🌫️)
@@understitchYT Really interesting! I'm grateful you've turned that passion for fashion and fashion journalism into this fantastic series. And on BoF- it rather sucks, as literally today, I was looking into getting a subscription in an effort to deepen my knowledge of the industry casually but there's not a single subscription service that's catered towards an interest reader.
It's interesting that you mentioned that the word "fall" garners attention to your videos. It's very fascinating as human beings how some of us gravitate and/or seems to take a perverse pleasure in seeing others at their worse. It's incredibly sad! It's almost like if you're going to talk about the success of a person, no one wishes to hear it smh unbelievable!!
I remember when this brand came out and it rocketed to popularity. I was rather obsessed at the time and I have/had a few items. Some of my favorites including the suspenders, their sweaters, “hardcore” beanie, and the collaboration long sleeve with 032C magazine. There was one particular sweater that was all black but the front had a bunch of scarves stitched in the front that I really wanted but couldn’t get at the time. I may be wrong, but I believe the “skate” company Paccbet/Rassvet is a sister company that’s still around. I think what attracted me to the brand is how it looked depressing/angsty. The only other brand that I like in the same way is Enfant Riches Deprimes. Like you could see influences of punk and skateboarding (like with a lot of the companies around that time), but Gosha was a bit more striking in my opinion, especially with their presentation. This is also during the time where skaters used to get way more angry about fashion in general than they do now and I remember there was a lot of controversy around their “Epic Aces” sweater which straight up stole the logo from the FA/Hockey skate company. If I’m being honest, I don’t know how long the brand could’ve survived at the time anyway despite its popularity. There was a bunch of angsty brands from that time that don’t exist/barely release anything anymore or are the complete opposite of how they started. Edit: Sorry for the long post, this is just one of the few brands on this channel I was very into. Plus it was around that Supreme price range of a bit more expensive but not super high end prices aside from a few items.
The buzz around the label was inescapable,, I’m glad that you bought some pieces pre-controversy. I’m not sure about the diffusion line if it is still available, but because Dover Street market cut ties in 2022, I would imagine it’s gone now, because they did the production, marketing and distribution. I will be interested to see what the brand looks like when it is re-launched in 2024, just because of how hype it was the first time around. And I also want to know about their logistics, gosha never had any of that, so how is he going to set that up from scratch when it was a huge barrier previously?
still I love your channel that gives me more information about the fashion business and fashion industry.. maybe in the future I will take the pathway in the fashion industry.. who knows..
It was surprisingly tricky, I ended up having to contact a few people for it (few of whom were actually even able to help bcs it was so niche and so long ago)
@@understitchYT Video came out great! Team work pays off, really good job! It is very well put together and gives clue about sudden appearance in mainstream. Thanks again for educating us :)
@@ma_martin Thank you so much, I'm gld you enjoyed it! Hopefully one day Ill be able to go to these events myself so Ill personally have pictures to share and experiences to describe
probably one of the most talented designers of the 2010's, I own a lot of his stuff and unlike a lot of other brands, the clothes are very wearable and can be mixed well with other brands. I hope he does a new collection soon. But there's still some pieces I want to get from his older collections.
It still has a high resale price too which is unusual for a designer of his level, but it must have resonated with a lot of people because its so hard to get for even just RRP nowadays (the good stuff at least)
Your content has been really fascinating and engaging as I run up to start a fashion art direction degree in September. I'm always in search of the weird and am finding a lot of identity consolidating in brutalist and grungy aesthetics so much so I recently bought a Gosha hoodie i envisioned myself in immediatly at seeing it. Wouldn't have happened if not for this video, and the artists Gosha has worked with.
Interesting analysis of the Gosha scandal. His work does tend to focus a lot on teen boys though, which might be a big reason why the suspicions were there in the first place. Personally I think fashion's obsession with youth culture, and especially with producing images that eroticise young people, is disturbing and unhealthy. There really should be an industry moratorium on the minimum age of fashion models before they can appear in more adult-oriented fashion spreads, shoots, catwalks, ads, etc. 16 is just too young. 18 should be the minimum.
Actually a long time ago Anna Wintour decided Vogue would only ophotograph models 18+ and a lot of the industry followed suit, so its not as much an issue today as it was back then. But the exception seems to be in photography where its still the wild west of models
This is exactly why I always loathed Larry Clark and his creep obsession with sexualizing teens. I'm really surprised he went under radar. I heard he's dead now. Oh well-
@@mikiminach-i2j I'll just keep it kinda fashion related.. And Yo I ain't some no-life conspiracy nutter, so it's not like I got this crazy theory I spend ages on.. It's just a thought.. But first Gosha. Completely cancelled over minor stuff compared to a lot of stuff people let go in fashion. Then this new eastern European / (mainly) Russian streetwear esthetic was really catching on. Metal / Tattoo / Witchcraft inspired designs and stuff. Then ofc covid made it hard for them to sell in Europe but then the Ukraine thing and bam, cancel Russia. Maybe fair, but still really harsh considering what people let slide with other countries (just look at Israel now). Now only the brands that already had established branches in EU are still here and hardly anyone know about them. Then only Demna was left and we all know what happened at Balenciaga. You could probably find way more examples if you want to.
@@KidCracken thanks for providing some context I was genuinely interested and will do some research as well, all I will say is any normal person with a brain can see how fucked up Israel is, im not well versed in the russia-ukraine war but the wests governments hypocritical response to Israel vs Russia does make me believe you have a point there.
His clothes individually early on were not special, yes, it was his world-building around that and ability to sell it with photography that made it desirable
I love your educational videos ! Also, about all the Nikes collaborations. I love peaceminusone collaborations. I couldn’t get them actually😅 I know the founder is Gdragon.
I haven't heard this name since 2018 and I swear I just learned about the allegations and I don't have an opinion on that. Anyway, when he peaked in 2016, it was wild - seeing the Kardashians/Hadids and who else rocking gopnik style sweatpants made by fellow russian. I never found his designs groundbreaking, probably was too used to seeing simular simplistic stuff in my every day life or maybe I was just mad cause I couldn't afford his things as a teen. Wasn't crazy about Рассвет either. I hate all these gopnik stereotypes in general. Maybe to the western world his work was like a breath of fresh air, and kinda surreal - seeing Kim Kardashian wear a red hoodie with soviet flag. Well, at least at that time people understood the irony of this soviet avant-garde/post-soviet nostalgia, but now everyone seems to think he was shamelessly promoting stalin's regime or something. He even stated that unhinged patriotism was not the end goal, but inspiration, as he was raised with a different, more westernized culture, compared to russian boomers. I have to say, to accuse anyone having cyrillic alphabet on their clothes of violence endorsement and propaganda is pure demented. I'm genuinely glad to know he's got such a huge opportunity recently, with the way people openly discriminate against anything/anyone russian (even this comment section is full of mindless hate). Too bad he's associated with Kanye tho, wish it was literally anyone else. Hopefully he produces something unique and slightly controversial (which it will be anyway), not another skater or plain ye leggings type of s, which I'm done with.
Yesss, this! Also, I highly believe his road would be way less bumpy if he weren't Russian. The diaspora is so discriminated against and people just ignore it bc obviously all of us Eastern Euros are just "evil commies".
I will wait the "The Rise and Rise of THE ROW" video.. for me still shockingly a bit that it didn't talk about yet about the brand THE ROW.. specifically the brand are getting more seen wears by celebrities specifically the bags
There are things that you should never do when in public eye and that’s a no brainer. We had few designers that were ruined by doing something crazy or saying something bad.
thanks for the information about fashion business and some unknown fashion designer to be introduced to us/on me abd their business and work in fashion.. what a year.. 2023 is the year discovered this channel.. belated Merry Christmas and a lil' bit Happy New Year.. enjoy your holiday vacation and more power in 2024...
If his photography and casting choices were half naked 16yo girls he would be cancelled. middle aged men surrounding themselves with topless barely legal teens is questionable. I feel the same way about Hedi Slimane
Unrelated to the video (which is amazing btw), but would you consider making a video on Alexander Wang ? His “return“ to fashion is kind of infuriating. I do understand why he's sooo adored especially in the Asian market because of idols wearing his name , but omg is it painful to look at. His sport-infused 90’s style is so uninspired and cheap, would love to hear your opinion on this ☺️
I was against it in the past, I just don’t want to give them the promotion. But not im not sure if thats exactly why I should. I take a lot of pride in trying to be unbiased, so is it biased to choose not to cover someone?
@@understitchYT I think it's so unfair the way he got away with everything, and when u search his name anywhere, nothing hints to that, it's as if it never happened, and to me that's infuriating! I respect your decision to not speak about him, it is promotion at the end of the day, but still I think someone (not you necessarily ) should speak about the brand and “history“ because I feel like so many people are not aware of the past. Thank u!
I'm not sure what to think on this one. The skater culture, sort of the evolution of "heroin chic" tends to focus on the emaciated skinny malnourished look. That in turn can make the models look quite a bit younger than they really are, but if your target audience is in that age group, you have to represent it in your public shows and art, and perhaps an older audience that yearns to look that way as well. I have known many a person wearing these kind of clothes that are way too old to be doing so to the point it makes you cringe. That said, Gosha, who I would assume was aware of the culture, should have been a lot more careful. It only takes one disgruntled teen to open Pandora's Box...which seems to be what happened here. You want to believe alleged victims, but as you said, none of the parties involved with the incident ever really said that anything illegal happened. Borderline inappropriate behavior...perhaps. Certainly not career ending
Inappropriate, yes, I think that’s the word. In my opinion, I think that his flaw was that because he was so close to everyone he was working with. He never suspected they could turn on him. He trusted them too much. You’re right that the label, and the aesthetic of the brand was all very geared towards that younger audience, and I’m sure there was something in it that made him believe that they were part of this movement together, that they were championing each other to success. But, he didn’t realise was that, like you said, just one disgruntled teen had the power to take it all down
I got the black version of the "Sport" jumper from AW16 and remember how buzzed I was. It truly felt fresh at the time. I've since sold it but still have some GR-Uniforma and Paccbet pieces. 🤐
i was in clueless kids gc when the kid showed us the screenshots of what gosha was saying and telling him to do. nothing can change what i saw, he is a predatory pervert
Thank you so much for making this video! I've jsut recently discovered understitch, and underskin, and watched every single video! Just one notion though. I understand that you made an good effort of pronouncing Rassvet in a sort of Russian way but please, Russian "r' sound is never harsh or tough, it's almost always soft as most of Russian consonants. It made my ears hurt each time when you said it. Especially because Rassvet means "sunrise" in Russian.
I worried it was too long? Not catchy enough? My click through rate was poor because I was initially demonetised (its been manually reinstated by YT) so In trying to recooperate the lost reach by shortening the name and making it snappier 🤍
I disagree. Their fashion concept, i Think you refer "looking up what youths are wearing" is well known since S 3 X times in 70s. This works, but results are different if you look up to youth in Paris and youth in Moscow. Typical Hedi look is far away from typical GR. Photography, if you do portraits, random shoots on streets, I think it will always be somehow familiar, we need to pay more attention to details.
@@ma_martin 1. Recycling archive looks referring to a certain youth subculture of the past, with little interpretation. 2. Using "documentary" approach in their photo diaries, quite similar aesthetically (choice of subject, theme, mood, lighting, etc.) 3. Integrating minimalism/reductionism into their work, referring to a certain sense of 'concept'. 4. Playing with well-known fashion iconography (think GR 'Tommy Hilfiger' hoodies or SLP 'Jordans', etc.) 5. Creating minimalist art exhibits as a means to manifest their conceptual, 'holistic' vision.
@@XX-mu2gh I see what you mean. Although the concept/subject may be similar, the output and final product for consumers is totally different than Hedi's and that means the most I think. Gosha has showed teenagers different way to dress. I remember Russian skater aesthetic blowing up and putting hedi boys in the corner. Also GR photos/films/fashion feel more authentic. I find hedis work also beautiful, but it feels less true and more staged to me.
I mean, I did too, I'm certainly guilty of believing what I read on social media, thinking that they were reliable sources. It's a shame because I held that belief for so many years, but I do agree with you about contacting minors, he shouldn't be doing it personally, nor through his personal account, but with a verified agency so everything can be kept obviously above board to avoid situations where this can be believed. We of course dont truly know if anything did happen as a result, and that makes it a very tentative brand to support
Looking back at his passion of teens with oftentimes a lot of skin showing, some of the graphics and the facetime/whatsapp situation in particular, one has to be delusional calling it walking a fine line of inspiration. He’s exactly what he’s thought to be, it’s only harmful creating excuses for obvious evil
that theme of half naked skinny kid with their head crudely shaved is not uncommon in post-soviet Russian art and is def not limited to gosha's works. it kind of has poverty, Russian prison culture, feeling of being abandoned and vulnerable compressed into a person. so, he might like fiddling with kids but the photos' imagery is hardly an argument
That’s the thing, it wasn’t that he had the images in the first place, because that was just part of his art, that was part of the aesthetic of what he was doing, it was the accusation in combination with the photography that made it plausible, that made it plant a seed of doubt
I think GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY is might not a fall it might be silent comeback in fashion industry.. I didn't know about GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY until this video.. so I get more know GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY.. thanks to @understitch work..
I kind of hope he will stay in shadows. No proofs, yet he is not an artist, but cannibalistic sales representative of the cannibalistic era of the cannibalistic regime. He was popular only because Cyrillics is as exotic, as kanji. That’s it.
He's not an artist, thats true, he just kind of found a way to market an already existing aesthetic to the world. I do think he has design talent there too, otherwsie his collabs would have been much less successful. But I agree that a lot of his popularity came from exoticism
this makes me sad of once upon a time this brand was big and I saw wore by celebrities back and forth then.. now this brand is now on edge of silent in the fashion industry.... I am talking about Tommy Hilfiger.. so when "The Rise and Fall of TOMMY HILFIGER"
Fashion is so trash. It’s like streetwear and hip hop destroyed fashion. From once something with class and real actual style just became a Good Will & Thrift Store throw ons. So pathetic.
Given Russia's actions in Ukraine and globally, it's extremely challenging to endorse any content that promotes or supports Russia in any form. In my opinion, it seems Gosha received funding from the Russian government, acting as a tool to alter public opinion regarding Russia's image. Apologies for introducing geopolitical context, but this appears to be a plausible course of action given the current circumstances, especially considering the reluctance of any reputable brand to invest in any product from russia.
you could have googled Gosha Rubchinskiy in russian, and then you would know that he opened his bar REX in Moscow during the war in Ukraine. he did not make any claims about the war, neither positive nor negative. however, looking at his merch design for Yeezy, which features double-headed eagles very similar to the nazi reichsadler, I think everything is pretty straightforward
Most of the information in this video was found in Russian and Google translated, I try not to focus so much on personal projects because I’m talking about the brand itself instead of the person, although in this case, his scandal was more of a personal scandal so maybe his designs for Ye would have been fitting
This is not really a “Eastern European style” such «white trash» sporty look has been popular in late 80-90s rave/hardcore scene across Europe(the most basic example 90s Thunderdome). The only thing is that as Western Europe became richer, all that white skinhead gangsta look became socially unacceptable and gradually went underground, becoming nearly forgotten. So all what makes his “genius” is slapping cyrillic words on stuff and charging 100x it’s worth.. in 2010s. Ngl, nobody in post soviet countries think of him as some “brilliant” designer, especially taking into account that “gopnik”-gangsta style that he is marketing to Westerners, has a lot of negative connotations and is hugely associated with crime and violence. Also imo it’s pretty stupid to collab with russians (whoever really) during war that they’re waging rn, when there are Other Eastern European countries that have way more talented designers that also deserve spotlight and don’t, through marketing, romanticize country that is committing war crimes.
The thing is, its never really been about design ability or talent. Today its all about how they brand themselves, market themselves and sell, all of which Gosha did very well
Uhhh yeah, Balenciaga is still VERY much popular, especially globally. That ad campaign was entirely distasteful, but it was an example of internet trolls turning offense into libel and spreading it around like wildfire.
It's SOOOO disturbing that Gosha can be totally boycotted and shunned from one suspect and one anonymous poster while James Charles has at least 15 credible accusations and he's still out here thriving.
🙊
yeah and then people say russophobia isn't real
@@МаруЦубеphobia is apllicable only when the fear is unreasonable. When Russia constantly threatens to bomb everything and everyone from western EU, to baltic states, to Berlin, to New York, the fear is very much warranted.
nooooooooo not russophobia@@МаруЦубе
Same with Alexander Wang
I've gotten to the point where I watch all of your videos whether I know the designer or not. Your take towards the end was really interesting, its crazy how the algorithm seems to reward negativity across the board. Thank you again for an insightful and well researched piece.
I dont even know if its only the algorithm? The news focuses on negative or fearful stories too, it predates algorithms because we as humans are more drawn to that and I dont know why
@@understitchYTI think because holding onto negatives is part of our survival mechanisms. Negative stuff might hurt us, so we have to remember it so we can avoid it next time. We're drawn to that kind of knowledge because we want to be prepared. But now that negativity can be more than just that which relates to our survival, it can be gossip about people we don't know too, but we still seem to be inherently interested in it
@@hhhenge🎯💯
Thank you so much for sharing this research! My graduation thesis was about how Gosha, Demna, and Lotta illuminated the subculture of post-Soviet "gopniki" from the shadows into the spotlight of our times. Amidst the encroachment of war, Central Asia now stands at the crossroads, transitioning from the "post-Soviet" context to the path of "new regional integration" I think. And I'm eagerly anticipating how this trio will gracefully shape the future of mainstream aesthetics. The thoughtful debate on fashion media in the conclusion resonates with me as well, this is one of the best video I have watched from you 🙌🙌🙌
Ah I could have done with you in the research for this!! It was so so hard to find any reviews or thoughts on his early work at all, and I was googling and searching in englsh and russian simultaneously 😂
Hey, would you be ok to transfer your graduation thesis ? I’m really interested to read about it and I think that would be a great start :)
@@estevanbourquard3913 I'd also like to read it if youre sending it out :)
Me too me too!! I’d like to read if it’s open for public to read :)
hi, I'm here now but this sounds so interesting! is it open to read?
This is one of the BEST UA-cam channels out here. I can’t get enough. Quality. Research. Objective outtakes. And even some self critique. You were born for this!
Thank you so much
This series really helps me learn more on fashion and fashion history definitely an interesting one. (Also u did my favourite brand justice so extra points)
I’d love to see you do a video on alaïa it seems so rich in history and i feel not enough people know about it.
Hes a totally important designer! I really do need to do Alaia, such an interesting brand history
Gosha trousers and knits were unmatched. Perfect middle ground aesthethic of being "put together" but also being laid back and cool. Also GR-Uniforma Mephistos were seriously underrated and if they were released now would probably sell quite well. Very much looking forward to his new work
Exceptional as always. You're so well-read and researched - I've been obsessed with your videos for the past few weeks. I have learned a TONNE. They MUST take a while to make; do you work in the industry? I'm curious as to how you achieve this degree of familiarity!
Currently Im not in the industry, I have before but I never found a role that stuck. Ive just truly always had a fascination both with fashion and with retail, so Ive been reading on it since I was a child (back when the business of fashion was free 😶🌫️)
@@understitchYT Really interesting! I'm grateful you've turned that passion for fashion and fashion journalism into this fantastic series. And on BoF- it rather sucks, as literally today, I was looking into getting a subscription in an effort to deepen my knowledge of the industry casually but there's not a single subscription service that's catered towards an interest reader.
Always a pleasure tuning in to your channel.
Thank you so much 🙌
It's interesting that you mentioned that the word "fall" garners attention to your videos. It's very fascinating as human beings how some of us gravitate and/or seems to take a perverse pleasure in seeing others at their worse. It's incredibly sad! It's almost like if you're going to talk about the success of a person, no one wishes to hear it smh unbelievable!!
Ive had people tell me explicitly in the past that they only watch fall videos but they couldnt tell me why 🤷
I still adore his artistry and perspective. Hope he gets a chance to come back and showcase his creativity
2024 looks to be the year
I remember when this brand came out and it rocketed to popularity. I was rather obsessed at the time and I have/had a few items. Some of my favorites including the suspenders, their sweaters, “hardcore” beanie, and the collaboration long sleeve with 032C magazine. There was one particular sweater that was all black but the front had a bunch of scarves stitched in the front that I really wanted but couldn’t get at the time. I may be wrong, but I believe the “skate” company Paccbet/Rassvet is a sister company that’s still around. I think what attracted me to the brand is how it looked depressing/angsty. The only other brand that I like in the same way is Enfant Riches Deprimes. Like you could see influences of punk and skateboarding (like with a lot of the companies around that time), but Gosha was a bit more striking in my opinion, especially with their presentation. This is also during the time where skaters used to get way more angry about fashion in general than they do now and I remember there was a lot of controversy around their “Epic Aces” sweater which straight up stole the logo from the FA/Hockey skate company. If I’m being honest, I don’t know how long the brand could’ve survived at the time anyway despite its popularity. There was a bunch of angsty brands from that time that don’t exist/barely release anything anymore or are the complete opposite of how they started.
Edit: Sorry for the long post, this is just one of the few brands on this channel I was very into. Plus it was around that Supreme price range of a bit more expensive but not super high end prices aside from a few items.
The buzz around the label was inescapable,, I’m glad that you bought some pieces pre-controversy. I’m not sure about the diffusion line if it is still available, but because Dover Street market cut ties in 2022, I would imagine it’s gone now, because they did the production, marketing and distribution. I will be interested to see what the brand looks like when it is re-launched in 2024, just because of how hype it was the first time around. And I also want to know about their logistics, gosha never had any of that, so how is he going to set that up from scratch when it was a huge barrier previously?
still I love your channel that gives me more information about the fashion business and fashion industry..
maybe in the future I will take the pathway in the fashion industry.. who knows..
🧠🧠🧠
Great video as always. Could you maybe do a video about Lacroix in the future? I've always been interested in hiw his brand stayed afloat for so long.
I desperately want to, but LVMH was why it stayed afloat for so long 🥰
Searching for early GR is hard. Thank You for putting lots of efford
It was surprisingly tricky, I ended up having to contact a few people for it (few of whom were actually even able to help bcs it was so niche and so long ago)
@@understitchYT Video came out great! Team work pays off, really good job! It is very well put together and gives clue about sudden appearance in mainstream. Thanks again for educating us :)
@@ma_martin Thank you so much, I'm gld you enjoyed it! Hopefully one day Ill be able to go to these events myself so Ill personally have pictures to share and experiences to describe
probably one of the most talented designers of the 2010's, I own a lot of his stuff and unlike a lot of other brands, the clothes are very wearable and can be mixed well with other brands. I hope he does a new collection soon. But there's still some pieces I want to get from his older collections.
It still has a high resale price too which is unusual for a designer of his level, but it must have resonated with a lot of people because its so hard to get for even just RRP nowadays (the good stuff at least)
Your content has been really fascinating and engaging as I run up to start a fashion art direction degree in September. I'm always in search of the weird and am finding a lot of identity consolidating in brutalist and grungy aesthetics so much so I recently bought a Gosha hoodie i envisioned myself in immediatly at seeing it. Wouldn't have happened if not for this video, and the artists Gosha has worked with.
Im so glad you find all this interesting, the marketing moves to get to where they got to fascinate me, so its nice not to be alone in my interest
Interesting analysis of the Gosha scandal. His work does tend to focus a lot on teen boys though, which might be a big reason why the suspicions were there in the first place.
Personally I think fashion's obsession with youth culture, and especially with producing images that eroticise young people, is disturbing and unhealthy.
There really should be an industry moratorium on the minimum age of fashion models before they can appear in more adult-oriented fashion spreads, shoots, catwalks, ads, etc. 16 is just too young. 18 should be the minimum.
Actually a long time ago Anna Wintour decided Vogue would only ophotograph models 18+ and a lot of the industry followed suit, so its not as much an issue today as it was back then. But the exception seems to be in photography where its still the wild west of models
agree, there was at the very least a strange fixation there that needed interrogation. people get away with too much weird shit
This is exactly why I always loathed Larry Clark and his creep obsession with sexualizing teens. I'm really surprised he went under radar. I heard he's dead now. Oh well-
Super video 😮👍🏻👍🏻 btw happy holidays !!🎆🌠🎆 best wishes 2024🎉
happy new year!! I'm glad you enjoyed it
I stopped following Diet Prada a long time ago
They keep posting off topic stuff 🤷
Really enjoyed this video ❤
Thank you so much, Gosha is very interesting
It's interesting how every time Russian / Eastern European culture gains popularity in the west, some controversy pops up to knock it down again.
There are few that stick around yeah. But my fav is Turkish called Rifat Ozbek ❤️
@@understitchYTTurkish - easter european ???
im interested in hearing more about this anti Russian theory can you provide some links or examples
@@mikiminach-i2j I'll just keep it kinda fashion related.. And Yo I ain't some no-life conspiracy nutter, so it's not like I got this crazy theory I spend ages on.. It's just a thought..
But first Gosha. Completely cancelled over minor stuff compared to a lot of stuff people let go in fashion.
Then this new eastern European / (mainly) Russian streetwear esthetic was really catching on. Metal / Tattoo / Witchcraft inspired designs and stuff. Then ofc covid made it hard for them to sell in Europe but then the Ukraine thing and bam, cancel Russia. Maybe fair, but still really harsh considering what people let slide with other countries (just look at Israel now).
Now only the brands that already had established branches in EU are still here and hardly anyone know about them.
Then only Demna was left and we all know what happened at Balenciaga.
You could probably find way more examples if you want to.
@@KidCracken thanks for providing some context I was genuinely interested and will do some research as well, all I will say is any normal person with a brain can see how fucked up Israel is, im not well versed in the russia-ukraine war but the wests governments hypocritical response to Israel vs Russia does make me believe you have a point there.
His ''collections'' are so derivative of random street clothes worn by Russian underclasses that it could have been assembled by ChatGPT.
His clothes individually early on were not special, yes, it was his world-building around that and ability to sell it with photography that made it desirable
you and bliss foster offer some of the best fashion videos on youtube - Thank you!
thank you so much 🙌🙌
Understitch has a MUCH nicer voice though and just better content. Bliss gets annoying fast.
Love your honesty.
Thank you
I love your educational videos ! Also, about all the Nikes collaborations. I love peaceminusone collaborations. I couldn’t get them actually😅 I know the founder is Gdragon.
I really want to do a video about peace minus one, but I didn’t know how many people knew it. GD has been my bias for forever 🥰
It’s so interesting watching this while he’s coming back into the game with the help Ye
Thats kind of why I made it, I think West is trying to do a Wintour/Galliano situation
I'm in desperate need of a video on Versace
Its a mystery, but its also another brand I want to do extremely well, so I want to give it the research time it deserves
I haven't heard this name since 2018 and I swear I just learned about the allegations and I don't have an opinion on that. Anyway, when he peaked in 2016, it was wild - seeing the Kardashians/Hadids and who else rocking gopnik style sweatpants made by fellow russian. I never found his designs groundbreaking, probably was too used to seeing simular simplistic stuff in my every day life or maybe I was just mad cause I couldn't afford his things as a teen. Wasn't crazy about Рассвет either. I hate all these gopnik stereotypes in general. Maybe to the western world his work was like a breath of fresh air, and kinda surreal - seeing Kim Kardashian wear a red hoodie with soviet flag. Well, at least at that time people understood the irony of this soviet avant-garde/post-soviet nostalgia, but now everyone seems to think he was shamelessly promoting stalin's regime or something. He even stated that unhinged patriotism was not the end goal, but inspiration, as he was raised with a different, more westernized culture, compared to russian boomers. I have to say, to accuse anyone having cyrillic alphabet on their clothes of violence endorsement and propaganda is pure demented. I'm genuinely glad to know he's got such a huge opportunity recently, with the way people openly discriminate against anything/anyone russian (even this comment section is full of mindless hate). Too bad he's associated with Kanye tho, wish it was literally anyone else. Hopefully he produces something unique and slightly controversial (which it will be anyway), not another skater or plain ye leggings type of s, which I'm done with.
Yesss, this!
Also, I highly believe his road would be way less bumpy if he weren't Russian.
The diaspora is so discriminated against and people just ignore it bc obviously all of us Eastern Euros are just "evil commies".
You're a very impressive investigative journalist.
Thank you so much 🥰
I will wait the "The Rise and Rise of THE ROW" video.. for me still shockingly a bit that it didn't talk about yet about the brand THE ROW.. specifically the brand are getting more seen wears by celebrities specifically the bags
It was planned here indtead of Gosha but bcs of the news I bumped Gosha up
my gosha collection was insane, I say was bc yk as a fashion head the clothes cycles but I'll always support the good gosha where and when I can
Ah its all gone?
Your videos are so amazing 😻
Thank you so much, Im so proud of this one especially
damn you work fast, didnt Kanye post gosha for the first time last night?
It was about a week ago and I thought I was slow with this 😂 I was very begrudgingly doing my actual job all week knowing I could be working on this 💀
There are things that you should never do when in public eye and that’s a no brainer. We had few designers that were ruined by doing something crazy or saying something bad.
Not just designers too, celebs, youtubers, policitians
Most of his first pieces would be selling in nyc right now -actually begging for em
They still resale for a decent price
thanks for the information about fashion business and some unknown fashion designer to be introduced to us/on me abd their business and work in fashion..
what a year.. 2023 is the year discovered this channel.. belated Merry Christmas and a lil' bit Happy New Year..
enjoy your holiday vacation and more power in 2024...
Thank you for always watching and commenting! Happy new yearr 🤍
"The Resurrection of FERRAGAMO" I will wait for the video
I really want to, I adore them
Do something on MISBHV & Natalia Maczec I think her rise is very important
You’re watching Understitch✨
📺
If his photography and casting choices were half naked 16yo girls he would be cancelled. middle aged men surrounding themselves with topless barely legal teens is questionable. I feel the same way about Hedi Slimane
I dont think we know Gosha’s secuality actually, but obviously we have to assume he is straight just for his own safety in Russia
@@understitchYT yikes, sorry. I’ve edited my original comment
Unrelated to the video (which is amazing btw), but would you consider making a video on Alexander Wang ? His “return“ to fashion is kind of infuriating. I do understand why he's sooo adored especially in the Asian market because of idols wearing his name , but omg is it painful to look at. His sport-infused 90’s style is so uninspired and cheap, would love to hear your opinion on this ☺️
I was against it in the past, I just don’t want to give them the promotion. But not im not sure if thats exactly why I should. I take a lot of pride in trying to be unbiased, so is it biased to choose not to cover someone?
@@understitchYT I think it's so unfair the way he got away with everything, and when u search his name anywhere, nothing hints to that, it's as if it never happened, and to me that's infuriating! I respect your decision to not speak about him, it is promotion at the end of the day, but still I think someone (not you necessarily ) should speak about the brand and “history“ because I feel like so many people are not aware of the past. Thank u!
You missed on Gosha venture with GR uniform
No, its in there, towards the end I added the adidas collab
I'm not sure what to think on this one. The skater culture, sort of the evolution of "heroin chic" tends to focus on the emaciated skinny malnourished look. That in turn can make the models look quite a bit younger than they really are, but if your target audience is in that age group, you have to represent it in your public shows and art, and perhaps an older audience that yearns to look that way as well. I have known many a person wearing these kind of clothes that are way too old to be doing so to the point it makes you cringe. That said, Gosha, who I would assume was aware of the culture, should have been a lot more careful. It only takes one disgruntled teen to open Pandora's Box...which seems to be what happened here. You want to believe alleged victims, but as you said, none of the parties involved with the incident ever really said that anything illegal happened. Borderline inappropriate behavior...perhaps. Certainly not career ending
Inappropriate, yes, I think that’s the word. In my opinion, I think that his flaw was that because he was so close to everyone he was working with. He never suspected they could turn on him. He trusted them too much. You’re right that the label, and the aesthetic of the brand was all very geared towards that younger audience, and I’m sure there was something in it that made him believe that they were part of this movement together, that they were championing each other to success. But, he didn’t realise was that, like you said, just one disgruntled teen had the power to take it all down
You are never too old!
Seriously fuck the idea that your style has to "mature" when you get older.
cringe is dead
I got the black version of the "Sport" jumper from AW16 and remember how buzzed I was. It truly felt fresh at the time. I've since sold it but still have some GR-Uniforma and Paccbet pieces. 🤐
I got one of the vests, and I felt so buzzed
i was in clueless kids gc when the kid showed us the screenshots of what gosha was saying and telling him to do. nothing can change what i saw, he is a predatory pervert
Thank you so much for making this video! I've jsut recently discovered understitch, and underskin, and watched every single video!
Just one notion though. I understand that you made an good effort of pronouncing Rassvet in a sort of Russian way but please, Russian "r' sound is never harsh or tough, it's almost always soft as most of Russian consonants. It made my ears hurt each time when you said it. Especially because Rassvet means "sunrise" in Russian.
Im glad you enjoyed my videos, thank you so much for the tips in Russian 🤍
@@understitchYT thank you for your immense amount of work!
Wonder why the original title of "The Rise, Fall and Potential Return of Gosha Rubchinskiy" was changed.
I worried it was too long? Not catchy enough? My click through rate was poor because I was initially demonetised (its been manually reinstated by YT) so In trying to recooperate the lost reach by shortening the name and making it snappier 🤍
Wow, thanks that's much more in-depth than I expected. Love your channel.@@understitchYT
Thanks
Thank you so much 🥰
Please do Thebe Magugu 😭
Oh I'd love to so much
His photography style + fashion concept + art installations are literally emulating HEDI SLIMANE.
I disagree. Their fashion concept, i Think you refer "looking up what youths are wearing" is well known since S 3 X times in 70s. This works, but results are different if you look up to youth in Paris and youth in Moscow. Typical Hedi look is far away from typical GR. Photography, if you do portraits, random shoots on streets, I think it will always be somehow familiar, we need to pay more attention to details.
@@ma_martin 1. Recycling archive looks referring to a certain youth subculture of the past, with little interpretation. 2. Using "documentary" approach in their photo diaries, quite similar aesthetically (choice of subject, theme, mood, lighting, etc.) 3. Integrating minimalism/reductionism into their work, referring to a certain sense of 'concept'. 4. Playing with well-known fashion iconography (think GR 'Tommy Hilfiger' hoodies or SLP 'Jordans', etc.) 5. Creating minimalist art exhibits as a means to manifest their conceptual, 'holistic' vision.
@@XX-mu2gh I see what you mean. Although the concept/subject may be similar, the output and final product for consumers is totally different than Hedi's and that means the most I think. Gosha has showed teenagers different way to dress. I remember Russian skater aesthetic blowing up and putting hedi boys in the corner. Also GR photos/films/fashion feel more authentic. I find hedis work also beautiful, but it feels less true and more staged to me.
Can you Do Marine Serre
I've done her! ua-cam.com/video/GKvmvwifGWY/v-deo.htmlsi=SfRJsqsqVDxLBdUv
My bad. I def rushed to judge him however he needed to know that in the us communication with minors is very dicey aa a non parent
I mean, I did too, I'm certainly guilty of believing what I read on social media, thinking that they were reliable sources. It's a shame because I held that belief for so many years, but I do agree with you about contacting minors, he shouldn't be doing it personally, nor through his personal account, but with a verified agency so everything can be kept obviously above board to avoid situations where this can be believed. We of course dont truly know if anything did happen as a result, and that makes it a very tentative brand to support
Looking back at his passion of teens with oftentimes a lot of skin showing, some of the graphics and the facetime/whatsapp situation in particular, one has to be delusional calling it walking a fine line of inspiration. He’s exactly what he’s thought to be, it’s only harmful creating excuses for obvious evil
that theme of half naked skinny kid with their head crudely shaved is not uncommon in post-soviet Russian art and is def not limited to gosha's works. it kind of has poverty, Russian prison culture, feeling of being abandoned and vulnerable compressed into a person. so, he might like fiddling with kids but the photos' imagery is hardly an argument
That’s the thing, it wasn’t that he had the images in the first place, because that was just part of his art, that was part of the aesthetic of what he was doing, it was the accusation in combination with the photography that made it plausible, that made it plant a seed of doubt
I think GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY is might not a fall it might be silent comeback in fashion industry..
I didn't know about GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY until this video..
so I get more know GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY.. thanks to @understitch work..
I dont doubt itll have a huge comeback in 2024, esp if its got Kanye working in proximity
I kind of hope he will stay in shadows. No proofs, yet he is not an artist, but cannibalistic sales representative of the cannibalistic era of the cannibalistic regime. He was popular only because Cyrillics is as exotic, as kanji. That’s it.
He's not an artist, thats true, he just kind of found a way to market an already existing aesthetic to the world. I do think he has design talent there too, otherwsie his collabs would have been much less successful. But I agree that a lot of his popularity came from exoticism
this makes me sad of once upon a time this brand was big and I saw wore by celebrities back and forth then.. now this brand is now on edge of silent in the fashion industry.... I am talking about Tommy Hilfiger..
so when "The Rise and Fall of TOMMY HILFIGER"
Thats a must, a big must
I really like his work
It was so solid
Fashion is so trash. It’s like streetwear and hip hop destroyed fashion. From once something with class and real actual style just became a Good Will & Thrift Store throw ons. So pathetic.
maybe/I feel is coming the BALENCIAGA "The Rise and Fall of Balenciaga" video this channel.. maybe... only @understitch knows.. 😅
Well i did balenc before as a rise and rise (pre-scandal) but I feel like I would just be repeating myself to do another so soon after
I hope the relaunch of Yeezy goes smoother than Ye's new Vultures album drop.
He has some very dedicated fans
Given Russia's actions in Ukraine and globally, it's extremely challenging to endorse any content that promotes or supports Russia in any form. In my opinion, it seems Gosha received funding from the Russian government, acting as a tool to alter public opinion regarding Russia's image. Apologies for introducing geopolitical context, but this appears to be a plausible course of action given the current circumstances, especially considering the reluctance of any reputable brand to invest in any product from russia.
It would be extremely interesting if that turned out to be true as youre right that Russia has struggled with global perception for a while
Why would the Russian government fund a queer artist who’s work frames the aesthetic for the dissolution of the Soviet Union?
@@ben-wm6yc what other options do they have?
@@lh5331 ?
@@lh5331what does this even mean? To not do it is another choice. This isn’t exactly framing Russia in a positive light either
you could have googled Gosha Rubchinskiy in russian, and then you would know that he opened his bar REX in Moscow during the war in Ukraine. he did not make any claims about the war, neither positive nor negative. however, looking at his merch design for Yeezy, which features double-headed eagles very similar to the nazi reichsadler, I think everything is pretty straightforward
Most of the information in this video was found in Russian and Google translated, I try not to focus so much on personal projects because I’m talking about the brand itself instead of the person, although in this case, his scandal was more of a personal scandal so maybe his designs for Ye would have been fitting
This is not really a “Eastern European style” such «white trash» sporty look has been popular in late 80-90s rave/hardcore scene across Europe(the most basic example 90s Thunderdome). The only thing is that as Western Europe became richer, all that white skinhead gangsta look became socially unacceptable and gradually went underground, becoming nearly forgotten. So all what makes his “genius” is slapping cyrillic words on stuff and charging 100x it’s worth.. in 2010s. Ngl, nobody in post soviet countries think of him as some “brilliant” designer, especially taking into account that “gopnik”-gangsta style that he is marketing to Westerners, has a lot of negative connotations and is hugely associated with crime and violence. Also imo it’s pretty stupid to collab with russians (whoever really) during war that they’re waging rn, when there are Other Eastern European countries that have way more talented designers that also deserve spotlight and don’t, through marketing, romanticize country that is committing war crimes.
The thing is, its never really been about design ability or talent. Today its all about how they brand themselves, market themselves and sell, all of which Gosha did very well
Why are you pronouncing Рассвет so hard. I think it's meant to be spoken soft
I have no idea how to speak russian, I did my best
You did fine! Also dietprada has become absolutely ridiculous, woke and sensationalist.
😂 Why does it matter to you any way? Это видео не на русском языке…
@@alexmillion25пускай учатся уважать чужие произношения.
I was a fan of his aesthetic but anyways I think we really have to separate art from the artist.
Where is the line for you? Im guessing Marchesa is out the picture 😂
I don’t know about this one given Balenciaga still hasnt return to its popularity ….
You dont think it has? That last collection was everywhere
Uhhh yeah, Balenciaga is still VERY much popular, especially globally. That ad campaign was entirely distasteful, but it was an example of internet trolls turning offense into libel and spreading it around like wildfire.
😁😇🎉
고마워용 🤍
it's pederasty not pedophilia...those are two different things
Did you learn that from that one comedians set that went viral?