Thanks for sharing this. My first two gstormelectro units just arrived. I had to go with the 101-VCO and output expander as I plan to build a monster bass machine. The flexibility these two offered is what made my selection!
I've built a couple of euro modules and other synth diy stuff for myself the last couple of years using this method, but I've never been able to get so nice results. I have to note though, that I've always used an iron. I'm going to try and get a laminator and do it this way, thank you for the video! Cheers!
"I'm kind of sad and happy all the time. Just kind of like feeling, you know, full of life and confident, and at the same time terrified. I'm all those things at once." -BBT
Great video man! What graphics software did you use to design the faceplate? I haven't found a program that lets you design dimensionally accurate graphics easily yet.
Hey! Great video! To the point, informative and well put together. I just have one question: what is the paper used onto which you print the track layout and panel art?
Oklahoma City. This process is great for building one-off modules. Recently started using a PCB fab house and getting my panels waterjet cut. All my money goes to Mouser, nobody around here carries electronics parts supply other than telecom products.
Yeah, that's the reality of internet sales. I hope to see a video that has much more detail on seeing your first mockup of the circuit, I assume on perfboard? Then seeing how you actually translate that to software and looking at the screen while you are using the software. Very cool videos.
BEAUTIFUL!! Super Brilliant! The timing with which I came across this video made it a very ‘YES! Anyone can do it!’ Sort of moment for me. Is that sort of paper a whole lot less hassle than these other toner-style/iron transfers? Also, maybe if you knew the size of the drill bit for the through hole stuff, or is it the same as the regular holes on boards? That liquid tin is something I’m surprised to have not seen in any video before. Last but not least, I see you’ve made the Turing Machine, with the expander that uses the fader potentiometers that have the little LEDs in the slider, did you have an easy time sourcing those? I haven’t found any that are actually economical for me. Thank you, that was awesome.
Hole sizes vary quite a bit, I measure all component leads w/ a set of small digital calipers from Harbor Freight. The wire gauge bits are specialty size not carried in general hardware stores. I bought a set from from Woodcraft if you're in USA www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-20pc-wire-gauge-size-drill-set. Word of caution, using liquid tin requires respiratory, eye and skin protection. I don't have a Turing Machine, but Mouser carries the Bourns slider pots w/ LEDs.
@5:15 this is something I used to do when testing for the first time, or troubleshooting, a circuit is to see if the power supply pins actually measure what they are supposed to be. For example, if the +12v rail on the module actually measures 0v I know I've got a problem and probably shouldn't plug it into my eurorack system for further testing until it is resolved. It's ok if you don't have a test lab setup like mine, you can still do a quick check of the power supply pins. And this easier method is what I do these days. With the module power unplugged, use a DVM to check for continuity between +12v and ground, then -12v and ground, then +12v and -12v. If it shows 0 ohms there is a short - usually a solder blob somewhere.
gstormelectro awesome that makes sense. I have a few good tools,a bench supply and a scope, a multimeter. Your videos are great. I watched u fix that key on the ms2k, super inventive dude keep it up! keeps folks like me trucking on!
I changed out the resistor so it could get a bit hotter. There's YT videos out there that show how to do do it. However I bricked 2 of the cheap laminators during use - they're just not made to handle it. Better to spend a bit more for a machine made to handle the extra heat.
Woa slow down buckaroo. These are notoriously intimidating/difficult to build, 0603 size SMD resistor/capacitors the size of a pinhead. The ARM processor legs usually get solder bridged, easily lifted pads, and shorted by ANY residual flux in that area. Not to mention all the hoops to jump through programming the ARM processor w/ the mutable code. There's a thread loaded w/ failed attempts at www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143366 My advice, start w/ the easier, thru-hole stuff. Then work your way towards tiny SMD stuff later, maybe my 2xADSR PCB/Panel (1206 size SMD parts, easier to deal with). Every SMD build I do from now on involves solder paste and a custom made SMD stencil. Also, there's no shame buying off-the-rack mutable modules from a store. I may do that w/ the Plaits for all the reasons above.
i remember the old days of hand etching PCBs I'm too lazy for now now unfortunately... i should go . back to doing that instead of my ghetto ass premade protoboards
"Xxx is done" ... by aliens? Remember your English teacher saying "passive voice is bad"? This isn't a 1940s instructional film ... Say "I design the CAD", "I cut the board" ...
Thanks for checking it out. LOL, I was watching too many episodes of "How It's Made" around that time. If I shot that footage again today I'd definitely try to loosen it up a bit to sound less...routine. :D
Thanks for sharing this. My first two gstormelectro units just arrived. I had to go with the 101-VCO and output expander as I plan to build a monster bass machine. The flexibility these two offered is what made my selection!
Wow. I thought you were about to build from a kit. You straight up made a pcb.
This is how I got started, I used to DIY the PCBs. A ton of work. As demand has increased I now have the PCBs manufactured.
And now we know why they cost so much, this was beautiful work man,
I've built a couple of euro modules and other synth diy stuff for myself the last couple of years using this method, but I've never been able to get so nice results. I have to note though, that I've always used an iron. I'm going to try and get a laminator and do it this way, thank you for the video! Cheers!
You sound like Bob Thorton. I love it
"I'm kind of sad and happy all the time. Just kind of like feeling, you know, full of life and confident, and at the same time terrified. I'm all those things at once." -BBT
Great video man! What graphics software did you use to design the faceplate? I haven't found a program that lets you design dimensionally accurate graphics easily yet.
These days I design the pcb/panel side-by-side in Kicad using the PCB Layout Editor.
❤️ ya Dude 👍🏾
masterpiece!
Not sure if I heard correctly, but did you say the printer is specially designed for PCB prototyping? If so, what printer is that?
The printer is normal. At 0:34 the layout was printed on a special paper for electronics prototyping. Specifically PCB Fab-In-A-Box Pulsar paper.
Ah cool, replayed it now, louder now that baby is awake heheh, "special paper"
3:30 "eye, hand, and respiratory protection is a must"
also no gloves
YEET
Oops :D
good job!
hi do you recommend that audio jacks for smooth insertion??
Hey! Great video! To the point, informative and well put together. I just have one question: what is the paper used onto which you print the track layout and panel art?
Ah, asking my trade secrets. That's Pulsar Fab-in-a-box transfer paper from Mouser. No kit required to use it.
Great stuff. What city are you in?
Oklahoma City. This process is great for building one-off modules. Recently started using a PCB fab house and getting my panels waterjet cut. All my money goes to Mouser, nobody around here carries electronics parts supply other than telecom products.
Yeah, that's the reality of internet sales. I hope to see a video that has much more detail on seeing your first mockup of the circuit, I assume on perfboard? Then seeing how you actually translate that to software and looking at the screen while you are using the software. Very cool videos.
BEAUTIFUL!! Super Brilliant! The timing with which I came across this video made it a very ‘YES! Anyone can do it!’ Sort of moment for me. Is that sort of paper a whole lot less hassle than these other toner-style/iron transfers? Also, maybe if you knew the size of the drill bit for the through hole stuff, or is it the same as the regular holes on boards? That liquid tin is something I’m surprised to have not seen in any video before. Last but not least, I see you’ve made the Turing Machine, with the expander that uses the fader potentiometers that have the little LEDs in the slider, did you have an easy time sourcing those? I haven’t found any that are actually economical for me. Thank you, that was awesome.
Hole sizes vary quite a bit, I measure all component leads w/ a set of small digital calipers from Harbor Freight. The wire gauge bits are specialty size not carried in general hardware stores. I bought a set from from Woodcraft if you're in USA www.woodcraft.com/products/woodriver-20pc-wire-gauge-size-drill-set. Word of caution, using liquid tin requires respiratory, eye and skin protection. I don't have a Turing Machine, but Mouser carries the Bourns slider pots w/ LEDs.
What exactly are you doing when running the voltages through the PCB? Testing junctions? I'm new to all this so I'm always just asking questions.
@5:15 this is something I used to do when testing for the first time, or troubleshooting, a circuit is to see if the power supply pins actually measure what they are supposed to be. For example, if the +12v rail on the module actually measures 0v I know I've got a problem and probably shouldn't plug it into my eurorack system for further testing until it is resolved. It's ok if you don't have a test lab setup like mine, you can still do a quick check of the power supply pins. And this easier method is what I do these days. With the module power unplugged, use a DVM to check for continuity between +12v and ground, then -12v and ground, then +12v and -12v. If it shows 0 ohms there is a short - usually a solder blob somewhere.
gstormelectro awesome that makes sense. I have a few good tools,a bench supply and a scope, a multimeter. Your videos are great. I watched u fix that key on the ms2k, super inventive dude keep it up! keeps folks like me trucking on!
How did you modify the laminator Machine?
I changed out the resistor so it could get a bit hotter. There's YT videos out there that show how to do do it. However I bricked 2 of the cheap laminators during use - they're just not made to handle it. Better to spend a bit more for a machine made to handle the extra heat.
i want to buy mutable's clouds PCB and try building it, but i have no idea what i'm doing....but maybe i should just go for it.
Woa slow down buckaroo. These are notoriously intimidating/difficult to build, 0603 size SMD resistor/capacitors the size of a pinhead. The ARM processor legs usually get solder bridged, easily lifted pads, and shorted by ANY residual flux in that area. Not to mention all the hoops to jump through programming the ARM processor w/ the mutable code. There's a thread loaded w/ failed attempts at www.muffwiggler.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=143366 My advice, start w/ the easier, thru-hole stuff. Then work your way towards tiny SMD stuff later, maybe my 2xADSR PCB/Panel (1206 size SMD parts, easier to deal with). Every SMD build I do from now on involves solder paste and a custom made SMD stencil. Also, there's no shame buying off-the-rack mutable modules from a store. I may do that w/ the Plaits for all the reasons above.
i remember the old days of hand etching PCBs I'm too lazy for now now unfortunately... i should go . back to doing that instead of my ghetto ass premade protoboards
"Xxx is done" ... by aliens? Remember your English teacher saying "passive voice is bad"? This isn't a 1940s instructional film ... Say "I design the CAD", "I cut the board" ...
Thanks for checking it out. LOL, I was watching too many episodes of "How It's Made" around that time. If I shot that footage again today I'd definitely try to loosen it up a bit to sound less...routine. :D
You should use gloves when using acetone