Great video just adding a suggestion when removing cap on front brake master cylinder it's a good idea to remove some of brake fluid because when pushing the pistons in on the calipers it may cause brake fluid to overflow
@@FatHeadCycles it looks like you also skipped the part about pushing the pistons back in before removing the old brake pads. Not doing so will lead to a rookie discovering that the new pads won't fit over the rotors, so they could end up damaging the new pads.
Think you said you had 25k on those pads. Do you normally just do pads and not rotors? My bike has 25k and the rotors and they seem almost untouched. Was going to toss some pads on but wasn't sure if I should do the rotors as well. Thoughts?
My FLHX has 30,000 miles on the original brakes and rotors. I just got done replacing the front pads today. The OEM pads were worn about half of the pad compared to the new pads. I only replaced the pads as described in this video. Easy maintenance, no need to take it to a shop. I just test drove the bike to go pick up a 6 pack, all is good.
To my knowledge the abs sensors can be finicky so I’m guessing it’s to give it slack so it doesn’t get tugged around and cause a sensor to on the fritz. Not that it would hurt the bike, if anything it would disable your abs and require a shop to diag and fix unless you know your way around that stuff.
Good video, but I'm assuming this is to teach someone who doesn't already know how to change the pads. No disrespect here, just adding a few points that should be explained to someone who is doing this for the first time. If they followed this, they might be in a little trouble. Removing the master cylinder cap and bleeding the lines is essential, and explain how to do that while old pads are still in place. Then checking the fluid level after squeezing the handbrake is very important. Again, for a beginner, they should know the torque specs for putting the brake caliper bolts and pad pin back on. Ride on Brotha..
"Removing the master cylinder cap and bleeding the lines is essential" Changing the pads doesn't introduce air into the system. I would recommend changing the fluid, and bleeding, but it's not strictly necessary for a pad change.
Great video just adding a suggestion when removing cap on front brake master cylinder it's a good idea to remove some of brake fluid because when pushing the pistons in on the calipers it may cause brake fluid to overflow
Thanks for the knowledge,Great video easy step by step directions!
It is our pleasure to share what we have learned with everyone. Thanks for watching!
Great video and instructions .. Great idea to do a full clean while you're in there , Cheers From Newfoundland Canada >>
Thanks Chris for the great video, do you have one on changing the rear pads as well? I ride a 2009 FLHTC EGLC.
Thanks man that was real easy
Very Helpful! Thank you!
What! no purple or green latex gloves 😄. Thanks for the video. I have 30,000 miles on the OEM front brake pads, I'm gonna change them tomorrow.
Glad that we could help. Thanks for watching.
Love the driveway series!
Thanks for the great video! Ride 2012 FLHTK
Thanks for watching!
It's always good to have eye protection.
Thanks for the video
good video
Great video! Any idea of OEM pads lifespan? 15K miles or 60K miles? Roughly? I have 8K miles in my 16’ Road King.
Good video. Just one thing: You didn´t show how you pressed the pistons back a bit to be able to fit the new pads. How do you do that?
Now on to the front fender
You didn't show how you compressed the pistons in .
Tried this on my 2014 Ultra. Calipers on both sides won't open enough to go back on rotors.
Does the dealer have to bleed the brakes on an ABS bike or can it be done with a vacuum bleeder at home?
You didn’t show compressing the Pistons earlier!
Which i know to do while the Old Shoes are still on
Do you know if the stock pads are sintered?
How did you keep the piston open
Wow so it's like a 30 min job. How much will a shop charge for this
My pin won't pop out to allow the pads to come out. Do you have to force it?
Need to check the master cylinder fluid level. Could over be filled after pushing pistons back with new pads
Very good point. I forgot to mention that. Thanks for the add
@@FatHeadCycles it looks like you also skipped the part about pushing the pistons back in before removing the old brake pads. Not doing so will lead to a rookie discovering that the new pads won't fit over the rotors, so they could end up damaging the new pads.
friend do you know how to fix error code U1040 Road king 2008?
I’m trying to do that but my brake pin are stuck anyone have this problem
Think you said you had 25k on those pads. Do you normally just do pads and not rotors? My bike has 25k and the rotors and they seem almost untouched. Was going to toss some pads on but wasn't sure if I should do the rotors as well. Thoughts?
My FLHX has 30,000 miles on the original brakes and rotors. I just got done replacing the front pads today. The OEM pads were worn about half of the pad compared to the new pads. I only replaced the pads as described in this video. Easy maintenance, no need to take it to a shop. I just test drove the bike to go pick up a 6 pack, all is good.
No loctite on the 10 point bolts
Don’t you have to change both sides?
Are you using the EBC HH Sintered pads or organic pads?
Nobodys used organic since the 80s unless you have a track bike
I thought there was some grease or something to go on the back of the pad between the piston and the pad?
It’s just like car pads, they work the same way.
Don’t you have to push the caliper pistons back in ?
Yes you do. That part must have got edited out.
Non complicated instructive explanation of simple tasks for us novus's
Why is it necessary to clip the speed sensor zip ties before removing the caliper?
To my knowledge the abs sensors can be finicky so I’m guessing it’s to give it slack so it doesn’t get tugged around and cause a sensor to on the fritz.
Not that it would hurt the bike, if anything it would disable your abs and require a shop to diag and fix unless you know your way around that stuff.
He said that wire for add on lights was connected with it so probably didn’t want to pull on wire for lights if didn’t clip zip ties
That we compressed earlier..... you never compressed them, never opened up the fluid reservoir, never mentioned the torque specs.
NEVER have torque settings, Why is that??????
Who needs torque settings???
Great video, but if you're going to show how to do breaks then show everything. Including the proper way of compressing the caliper
You don’t have to open the master cylinder up
Someone needs to take that can of brake cleaner away from you.
Good video, but I'm assuming this is to teach someone who doesn't already know how to change the pads. No disrespect here, just adding a few points that should be explained to someone who is doing this for the first time. If they followed this, they might be in a little trouble. Removing the master cylinder cap and bleeding the lines is essential, and explain how to do that while old pads are still in place. Then checking the fluid level after squeezing the handbrake is very important. Again, for a beginner, they should know the torque specs for putting the brake caliper bolts and pad pin back on. Ride on Brotha..
"Removing the master cylinder cap and bleeding the lines is essential"
Changing the pads doesn't introduce air into the system. I would recommend changing the fluid, and bleeding, but it's not strictly necessary for a pad change.
This neanderthal using his fingers only 2 years ago. About 5 years after we became aware of incells....