Two things to add. In addition to toeing the pads, also check for being parallel to the brake surface. This comes into play more if you are switching between traditional aluminum rims and the newer style carbon rims. Also, on aluminum wheels, sandpaper the pads lightly then inspect closely with magnifying glass and light, for tiny aluminum shards that may have come off the rim and embedded themselves in the rubber of the pad. This issue will cause more of a scraping sound than a squeak type noise.
This comes at a perfect timing. My brakes have been producing a scraping noise and this is despite having removed all aluminium bits in the pads just 2 weeks ago. Thank you!
My Vbrakes were like extremely loud, so much that I stopped the bike with my feet. I tried toeing them in, I didn't expect it to work, but holy shit my bike is like new now! Thank you for helping me!
I have always thought that the brakes on my road bikes were always a little bit noisy. I had always just kind of assumed that the noise was simply a by-product of carbon wheels/ carbon brake pads... Needless to say, I tried the little tip to reposition the brake shoes so that pads are toe-in. Low and behold, the shoes and pads were not positioned correctly and now that they are, the brakes are significantly quieter. They also stop much better. Thanks Simon.
I toe in v-brakes as well...works wonders. Disc brakes I clean them with Rubbing alcohol and a clean tooth brush to the rotors. The pads I clean with alcohol and rub them in a figure 8 with 1000 grit sandpaper. Takes a few tries but it works. Blow torching them is when you get oil on the pads.
I've had disk brakes on my MTB for a very long time. Step one when they start making noise is to take some gauze or other very clean cloth, put some alcohol on it, and clean the rotor. Step two is usually to take the pads out and take some sandpaper to them. I put the sandpaper on a very flat surface and rub the pads on the paper that way. This helps keep them true/flat.
Funnily enough my brakes got very squeaky *after* I washed my bike per your full bike cleaning video. After a few intentional hard stops the harsh squeak seems to have gone away. If it comes back I'll try the other methods. Could be the WD40 I sprayed on the components (was a tip from your in depth cleaning video). Worth noting the pads are a month or two old.
hello, i would like to play a game, what you see here is i have squeeky breaks you will have 30 seconds to get out of the way or you will be ran over and turned into a tire waffle. use your eyes and mostly your ears if you would like to survive. the choice is yours lol
What works to stop honking disk brakes is to take the pads out and rub them on a clean cement sidewalk or the like. Something in the cement along with the fact you have taken the sheen off them seems to stop the noise.
Thanks for that. My brakes were extremely loud. The washing didn’t do it which is good as it means my muddy bike rides in the park aren’t causing the problem but the filing the pad combined with the toeing made a massive difference but how much pressure should I use on the brakes when toeing them??
1:45 That's crazy that was my issue actually. Washed the wheel, cleaned the brakes and tighten the caliper didn't help. It was so noisy I could use the rear brake as a clacson 🤣
...make sure you are using the correct type of pad for the brake surface. Carbon and alu use different compounds, and that can cause squealing. Check the rim manufacturer for their recommended brand of pad, as using the wrong brand could cause failure and void a warranty. Last, don't use the same pad when switching carbon and aluminium wheels. Both types of surface will leave residue on the pad that can increase wear on the other.
Yes that's actually a common practice among mountain bikers. Take them off the bike first. Personally I'd just swap out the old pads for a new set (I run TRP Spyres on my TCX).
For shimano 9000/6800 dual pivot brakes, there is a roller inside the brake body that can seize up. Drip some chain lube onto it, wipe the excess off and you're done!
Gordon Moat you can't normally fix them completely in place, but you do need to adjust the springs which keep them centred. This is usually done with a small Allen bolt. Otherwise one pad will contact the rim before the other one.
My front disc squealed like buggery.... I tried everything ....cleaning sanding new pads etc etc.... In the end what helped was a long long steep downhill keeping my brakes on just below the squeal.... have no idea what the scientific reason is but this worked and the squeal is gone...
It helps to bed in the pads and the rotors, with a build up of pad sediment on the rotors, and the removal of any contaminants that are why the squeal happened :)
I've been riding and ignoring the scratchy sound from the front brakes. Turns out there were tiny pieces of metal embedded in the pad. I wonder if I screwed up the rim permanently? Damn!
When my rim failed I replaced it and the pads. Made absolutely no difference to the brake noise. Seems that sometimes its the geometry of the brakes and the way they are set up.
Metal rim-brake wheelsets will require a brake pad made of rubber. Carbon rim-brake wheelsets usually need cork brake pads or some other non-rubber friction material
On a slightly related issue, when I put away my summer bike for the winter in my garage the aluminium brake tracks start growing white Aluminium oxide fur! If I don't clean it off regularly then the brake tracks become pitted. I know a thin layer of oil or grease would stop this, but for obvious reasons I don't want to apply this to my brake tracks. Any other thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Please!
I have a handlebar with ICR. Also, my brake lines are hydraulic ( hydro rim brakes ) . It is hell to properly route the cables. You can start with a very thin fishing line using the vacuum cleaner method, then use thicker fishing line attached to the end of initial line and as soon as the strong line passes through attach to it both shifting/braking cables .
You forgot to address classic caliper brakes without the adjustable "cups" like my Mafac Racers and Weinnman750-999s. (The modern calipers with adjustable-toe-in pads are a snap by comparison.)
I have a question. It seems that everytime it rains, and unfortunately my bike must be outside (school), riding back home my v-brakes make some noise for a little time and after that work as normal. It's sometimes really irritating. What could be the cause? I have my wheels centered.
The mudguards on the Canyon are Crud Roadracer MK3, they're absolutely crap if you've got calliper brakes. I bought a set and what a total waste of cash, I bought SKS Raceblade Pro XL instead, waaaaaaay better quality
The braking surface on my rim has a tiny laceration which makes a rather nasty sound when the brake pads go over it. Any idea on how to get rid of that?
It's got something to do with the harmonic resonance of your brake track rubbing against the brake pad. With toe-in, you're setting the pad in such a way that it decreases the resonance, which is the source of the noise.
It seems your rim is disintegrating! When some dirt is captured by the brake pads and is rubbed against the rim when braking, it acts like a sandpaper. After a while, the metal dust also gets embedded into the pads, eroding the rim even further. That's why is very important to wipe the rims clean before or after every ride. Disc brakes, being afar from the ground, are less prone to that kind of erosion damage.
Trollolol498 This happened with my brand new RS81's. I took my finger and felt around the braking surface and I felt all sorts of "bumps" and sharp edges. Then i simply toon a file and filed the edges down very carefully. finished with some sandpaper and a proper wash. Never seen aluminium bits in the brakes again.
Ok I need some advice I've cleaned my rims, tires, and brake pads and they still screech even when used lightly. so I roughed up the brake pads with 660 grain sand paper they still screeched so I bought new brake pads and they're louder than before but the brakes work like a dream. Any advice
@@Soapy_Sophie23 ahhhh okay yeah i forgot in some places its still strict restrictions reason why i ask because i was having the same promblem with my brakes and the bike shop fixed it Dont worry about it as soon as as they open they wilk for sure fix it for you. You tried everything that can fix the promblem but the promblem still exist, they can more in depth for yah. Hope you get the promblem fixed!
If brake pads are contaminated with lubricant, oil or other contaminants dropping the pads out and cleaning them with degreaser or brake cleaner usually works, If this does not remove all the contamination and the brakes still squeal then drop the pads out again and use a blow torch or high temperature heat gun to heat the pads enough to boil off and evaporate contamination leaving the pads clean. I have done this many times to silence brake squeal after riding on disused coal mine sites and places where dirt bikes & quads have left oil or fuel in the mud. If degreasing and cleaning fails, heating for a short time to remove contaminants is the answer :-)
mine making noise whenever i move the 'handlebar' to the right n left , im still trying to figure out how to stop the noisy sound cuz its srsly stressing me out 🥴 i almost give up XD
Get Shimano 105 or similar grade calipers. It's actually #1 and the must upgrade for the budget bikes. I am not counting quality tires as an upgrade since it's just the plain must, especially if one gets a bike with overstock 23c while 28c is the way to go.
+ LisaPet That's actually a very good suggestion. I'm riding a cheap road bike and now I think about it the only thing that really lets it down is the brakes. I replaced the cheap 23c tyres with Continentals very early on.
Ed R We are on the same page. I had to use a will power to restrain from typing "Continental". The first road bike I have was bought to "try it out". That, as in your case, is a budget one with three requirements (minimal acceptable Shimano groupset, reasonable weight, and double-wall wheels). After being lucky not to crash in one episode, I started looking for descent tips. Found GCN Channel, immediately got set of Contis "as seen on GCN". I figured out on my own that 28c are way to go. Later - upgraded the brakes. Pretty decent commuter bike I have now. The second "road looking" bike I got from adventure-gravel-alternate-(chooseYourOwnClassifier) field - few months before GCN declared 2016 a Year of Adventure bikes That long posting is to show a case when GCN had helped a lot. One year of watching - not a minute (Except unboxing series) of wasted time - they are my remote coaches.
Luckily only my front brake always makes the screeching noise,so i don't use then,plus since i usually go at higher speeds i don't even use the front brake,on the other hand when my back brakes get some water poured on them(when it's raining or when i go through a puddle)and when they start screeching I'm like nah fam i ain't riding you today,no embarrassment for me
And for you disc brake riders... put a bigger disc on front if you continue to have squealing noise... I am 87 kg rider and once I changed to bigger rotor all noise stopped on heavy downhill braking.. and all other braking situations.. stock rotors are made for 70 kg riders not us big boys ! Ride safe.
My breaks doesn't squeak, but they work very poorly (I have to pull very hard to get them to break just a bit). They worked well, then I washed my bike and since then, they've been crap. I hadn't done anything other than wash my bike, but after they turned crap I re-adjusted them and lubricated them without luck. Anyone else this has happened to, that may be able to lend some advice on what to do, cause I feel like I tried a bunch and nothing worked.
baconfromhell666 oh okay, also if the cables are old they can wear down and the outer gives and stretches when you pull the lever which means a big part of the force you apply at the levers gets lost in the cable before even teaching the break caliper. I changed my cables about a month ago and it made my brakes work like new. So yeah, if you can change the brake cables, inner and outer. Good luck mate
Luciano Narno The bike is less than a year old, so the cables aren't that old. Also, if it was because they were worn, it wouldn't just go from feeling fine to crap in an instant.
well all I can think about is glazed pads then, sand them down a little and I even went as far as to sanding my training wheels' brake track with 1000 grit to remove the perfect polish and make the pads grab better. worked perfect
TheDaschoeber When cycling in winter you don't want freezing water to get on your ass, fenders are protected under the cycling self defense act of 1974.
Guys, let me drop this here. You have to, I mean... HAVE TO, interview this guy: instagram.com/luescher_teknik/ He's en eminency on carbon fiber. Really amazing knowledge. There are few videos on youtue out there which are amazing, and put carbon frames into a delicate situation due to their way of manufacturing.
Yuri Rayzberg You don't want to get lubricant in the brake system, it relies on friction to work so lubrication will make your brakes not work properly or at all.
Thanks for all the good suggestions mates! I'll lube the pads, the rims and remove the annoying cables to improve the aerodynamics. Should be fast as fk on my way back today. I will report back about the results tonight!
I know someone that actually did this. They brought there bike to me at work complaining about his brakes not working. They had lube all over the pads and rims. When I asked WTF, he replied that they were squealing so he lube them.
And if after all that they still squeak, give up road cycling and become a velodrome cyclist. They don't even have brakes, so no more squealing! :-) (Or, become a bicycle messenger. They don't have brakes either, nor do they need them since they ignore red lights anyway! :-)
Two things to add. In addition to toeing the pads, also check for being parallel to the brake surface. This comes into play more if you are switching between traditional aluminum rims and the newer style carbon rims. Also, on aluminum wheels, sandpaper the pads lightly then inspect closely with magnifying glass and light, for tiny aluminum shards that may have come off the rim and embedded themselves in the rubber of the pad. This issue will cause more of a scraping sound than a squeak type noise.
This comes at a perfect timing. My brakes have been producing a scraping noise and this is despite having removed all aluminium bits in the pads just 2 weeks ago. Thank you!
Same here 😊
My Vbrakes were like extremely loud, so much that I stopped the bike with my feet. I tried toeing them in, I didn't expect it to work, but holy shit my bike is like new now! Thank you for helping me!
If I lose friends because of noisy brakes they were no friends of mine and so can sod off :)
Trick is not to have any friends in the first place
@@LiquoriceMick big-brain-plays
@@davidclark3636 sigma male
I personally like the brake squeak, it tells anyone around that I'm slowing down, since I don't have brake lights on my bike.
What if you leave it squeak will something happen ?
I have always thought that the brakes on my road bikes were always a little bit noisy. I had always just kind of assumed that the noise was simply a by-product of carbon wheels/ carbon brake pads...
Needless to say, I tried the little tip to reposition the brake shoes so that pads are toe-in. Low and behold, the shoes and pads were not positioned correctly and now that they are, the brakes are significantly quieter. They also stop much better.
Thanks Simon.
I toe in v-brakes as well...works wonders. Disc brakes I clean them with Rubbing alcohol and a clean tooth brush to the rotors. The pads I clean with alcohol and rub them in a figure 8 with 1000 grit sandpaper. Takes a few tries but it works. Blow torching them is when you get oil on the pads.
I've had disk brakes on my MTB for a very long time. Step one when they start making noise is to take some gauze or other very clean cloth, put some alcohol on it, and clean the rotor. Step two is usually to take the pads out and take some sandpaper to them. I put the sandpaper on a very flat surface and rub the pads on the paper that way. This helps keep them true/flat.
Thanks for the great video. No more embarrassing bike rides.
Well coordinated gcn & gmbn. Perhaps we could have a video to see if all 7 of you can fit together in the bike shed.
Thanks for this, I just got a new bike and I couldn’t figure out what the problem was at all
Mud guards! Sanity. Thumbs up for the GMBN guy's bike.
My brakes have been squeaking since I bought it new, just cleaning the rim with some iso was all I needed! Cant believe thats all it took lol
Thanks for this. Toeing in the breaks made it work
Funnily enough my brakes got very squeaky *after* I washed my bike per your full bike cleaning video. After a few intentional hard stops the harsh squeak seems to have gone away. If it comes back I'll try the other methods. Could be the WD40 I sprayed on the components (was a tip from your in depth cleaning video). Worth noting the pads are a month or two old.
Why bother my front brake is realy loud it saved the cost and weight of those bells and people jump out of the way unlike the bell!
Gillenz Fluff lol this is so true. People hear it and get out of my way.
hello, i would like to play a game, what you see here is i have squeeky breaks you will have 30 seconds to get out of the way or you will be ran over and turned into a tire waffle. use your eyes and mostly your ears if you would like to survive. the choice is yours lol
😂😂
Thank you! The cardboard trick fixed up the squeak for me.
That Canyon looks sick!
It's the 2017 Endurace, I believe.
Maybe it has corona virus.
What works to stop honking disk brakes is to take the pads out and rub them on a clean cement sidewalk or the like. Something in the cement along with the fact you have taken the sheen off them seems to stop the noise.
Thank you guys, you've really helped me.
Love these crossovers
Thanks for that. My brakes were extremely loud. The washing didn’t do it which is good as it means my muddy bike rides in the park aren’t causing the problem but the filing the pad combined with the toeing made a massive difference but how much pressure should I use on the brakes when toeing them??
great tips , thanks very much
Thanks for the tips guys !
Crud road racer MK. 3!
Wow man this really works thanks
Very helpful thanks ❤️
I recommend using windex as an all purpose brake cleaner for any type of brake
1:45 That's crazy that was my issue actually. Washed the wheel, cleaned the brakes and tighten the caliper didn't help.
It was so noisy I could use the rear brake as a clacson 🤣
A DELIVEROO RIDER THANKS YOU
...make sure you are using the correct type of pad for the brake surface. Carbon and alu use different compounds, and that can cause squealing. Check the rim manufacturer for their recommended brand of pad, as using the wrong brand could cause failure and void a warranty. Last, don't use the same pad when switching carbon and aluminium wheels. Both types of surface will leave residue on the pad that can increase wear on the other.
where do you get that specific mud guard. i wanna have in on my canyon aeroad when im commuting to school.
for disc rotors you should also clean them with brake cleaner and rags...
Did he say use a blow torch to boil the oil off the disc pads? I reckon it will do more than that to my bike.
take the disk off first... :P try rubbing mud onto them first, this works really well, although is pretty counter intuitive
Yes that's actually a common practice among mountain bikers. Take them off the bike first. Personally I'd just swap out the old pads for a new set (I run TRP Spyres on my TCX).
This is good!
1:25 Isn't the trailing edge the rear part of the pad!?
Ah, fair play
Nope, as the wheel turns the trailing edge of the pad is the front pad , it's the same for rear and front brakes ;)
For shimano 9000/6800 dual pivot brakes, there is a roller inside the brake body that can seize up. Drip some chain lube onto it, wipe the excess off and you're done!
I just searched on your channel but there is nothing about the brand Votec, have you ever tried their bikes?
interesting mudguards. Anyone know the make and the model of those?
"interesting" would be the first word and "awful' would be the second one
my question is little bit far from the subject but what is the model of that CANYON bike's mud guard?
Do modern caliper brakes self centre? On my ancient bicycle I needed to adjust centering to eliminate brake noise.
Gordon Moat you can't normally fix them completely in place, but you do need to adjust the springs which keep them centred. This is usually done with a small Allen bolt. Otherwise one pad will contact the rim before the other one.
Seems that the video could've been a bit longer.
I've tried everything and nothing is working!!! They (pad brakes) still sing like the Vienna Boys Choir!! Help!
@gcn chaps - what mud guards are on the Canyon your mate from GMBN chats about disc brakes on? These look awesome!
My front disc squealed like buggery....
I tried everything ....cleaning sanding new pads etc etc....
In the end what helped was a long long steep downhill keeping my brakes on just below the squeal.... have no idea what the scientific reason is but this worked and the squeal is gone...
It helps to bed in the pads and the rotors, with a build up of pad sediment on the rotors, and the removal of any contaminants that are why the squeal happened :)
alot of after fit brake pads like swisstop flash pro already designed with toe in
what fenders are those ???
Crud Roadracer Mk3s, attached with industrial Velcro. I'm testing some at the moment, so far haven't got them to fall off.
I was told to use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean disc breakes. Is this any good?
It is. It helps wash off any oils or dirt, especially when used on a brake rotor with a paper towel.
I've been riding and ignoring the scratchy sound from the front brakes. Turns out there were tiny pieces of metal embedded in the pad. I wonder if I screwed up the rim permanently? Damn!
When my rim failed I replaced it and the pads. Made absolutely no difference to the brake noise. Seems that sometimes its the geometry of the brakes and the way they are set up.
Try swapping the entire bike - could be it's you who are squeaking!
i had faced the same problem and solved it by wearing earplugs
1:24 - the front of the pad is the leading edge, not the trailing edge!
+ Ben I Just what I was going to say, the video is correct.
nice crud guards si. not sure I can condone them being on a canyon and with no tape for protection but what are your thoughts on the mk3?
Is there a difference between brake pads for carbon rims compared to a traditional rim?
Yes. There are special brake pads for carbon braking surfaces. Usually if you buy a wheelset they come with suitable brake pads.
Metal rim-brake wheelsets will require a brake pad made of rubber. Carbon rim-brake wheelsets usually need cork brake pads or some other non-rubber friction material
On a slightly related issue, when I put away my summer bike for the winter in my garage the aluminium brake tracks start growing white Aluminium oxide fur! If I don't clean it off regularly then the brake tracks become pitted. I know a thin layer of oil or grease would stop this, but for obvious reasons I don't want to apply this to my brake tracks. Any other thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Please!
Cheers mate👍
Thank you very much! I fixed my pad issue cleaned it// MUch blessing you way
Hi GCN! Are there any tips for integrated bar/stem cable routing?
Johan hi I think this was their last video for maintenance Monday have a look on the channel mate
SuperMadBoyHD Thanks mate
I have a handlebar with ICR. Also, my brake lines are hydraulic ( hydro rim brakes ) . It is hell to properly route the cables. You can start with a very thin fishing line using the vacuum cleaner method, then use thicker fishing line attached to the end of initial line and as soon as the strong line passes through attach to it both shifting/braking cables .
I used to get so cheesed off with other riders not having correctly adjust brakes in the bunch when racing.
also, disk breaks always squeal when wet, its just something you have to accept :(
V breaks are loud af
You forgot to address classic caliper brakes without the adjustable "cups" like my Mafac Racers and Weinnman750-999s. (The modern calipers with adjustable-toe-in pads are a snap by comparison.)
I have a question. It seems that everytime it rains, and unfortunately my bike must be outside (school), riding back home my v-brakes make some noise for a little time and after that work as normal. It's sometimes really irritating. What could be the cause? I have my wheels centered.
where I can buy the same mudguard like on the red bike?
The mudguards on the Canyon are Crud Roadracer MK3, they're absolutely crap if you've got calliper brakes. I bought a set and what a total waste of cash, I bought SKS Raceblade Pro XL instead, waaaaaaay better quality
The braking surface on my rim has a tiny laceration which makes a rather nasty sound when the brake pads go over it. Any idea on how to get rid of that?
Does si ride this orca anymore?
Could you perhaps talk us through why toeing in your brakes eliminates noise? #torqueback
It's got something to do with the harmonic resonance of your brake track rubbing against the brake pad. With toe-in, you're setting the pad in such a way that it decreases the resonance, which is the source of the noise.
Neil and Simon in one video? What is this, a crossover episode?
I have the problem that my break pads are always full of alloy bits. What could be the cause oft that?
Trollolol498 Yes that will happen with aluminium rims. Just use a flat headed screwdriver and dig them out every now and then.
It seems your rim is disintegrating! When some dirt is captured by the brake pads and is rubbed against the rim when braking, it acts like a sandpaper. After a while, the metal dust also gets embedded into the pads, eroding the rim even further. That's why is very important to wipe the rims clean before or after every ride. Disc brakes, being afar from the ground, are less prone to that kind of erosion damage.
Trollolol498 This happened with my brand new RS81's. I took my finger and felt around the braking surface and I felt all sorts of "bumps" and sharp edges. Then i simply toon a file and filed the edges down very carefully. finished with some sandpaper and a proper wash. Never seen aluminium bits in the brakes again.
buy a different brand of pads. kool stop and swisstop make higher quality pads that don't do this. they also stop better in the rain.
Ok I need some advice I've cleaned my rims, tires, and brake pads and they still screech even when used lightly. so I roughed up the brake pads with 660 grain sand paper they still screeched so I bought new brake pads and they're louder than before but the brakes work like a dream. Any advice
Did you ever find a soulution
Nope they still squeak
@@Soapy_Sophie23 did you try taking it to your local bike shop?
@@funnymastercay2735 unfortunately with the virus going on they won't even take a look at it
@@Soapy_Sophie23 ahhhh okay yeah i forgot in some places its still strict restrictions reason why i ask because i was having the same promblem with my brakes and the bike shop fixed it Dont worry about it as soon as as they open they wilk for sure fix it for you. You tried everything that can fix the promblem but the promblem still exist, they can more in depth for yah. Hope you get the promblem fixed!
what bar tape is that?
pls make mountain bike version
I think it's pretty poor how they don't show you what sound they're on about before getting into the maintenance cmon gcn what's up
blowtorching oil?
If brake pads are contaminated with lubricant, oil or other contaminants dropping the pads out and cleaning them with degreaser or brake cleaner usually works, If this does not remove all the contamination and the brakes still squeal then drop the pads out again and use a blow torch or high temperature heat gun to heat the pads enough to boil off and evaporate contamination leaving the pads clean. I have done this many times to silence brake squeal after riding on disused coal mine sites and places where dirt bikes & quads have left oil or fuel in the mud. If degreasing and cleaning fails, heating for a short time to remove contaminants is the answer :-)
mine making noise whenever i move the 'handlebar' to the right n left , im still trying to figure out how to stop the noisy sound cuz its srsly stressing me out 🥴 i almost give up XD
My squeaky brakes just needed a light sanding…squeak went away, now it’s just a whimper. Lol.
Would have been nice to have had the disc brakes segment more visual.
Is Si the most mechanically inclined presenter ? Or just the right man for the job ?
#torqueback
How to prevent caliper bolt rust? (Especially the one behind the fork)
use an aluminum bolt, or maybe try coating it in an anti-rust solution
I would use stainless steel, not sure if aluminium will be strong enough. If the thread is metric its not too hard to find a stainless alternative.
Get Shimano 105 or similar grade calipers. It's actually #1 and the must upgrade for the budget bikes.
I am not counting quality tires as an upgrade since it's just the plain must, especially if one gets a bike with overstock 23c while 28c is the way to go.
+ LisaPet That's actually a very good suggestion. I'm riding a cheap road bike and now I think about it the only thing that really lets it down is the brakes. I replaced the cheap 23c tyres with Continentals very early on.
Ed R We are on the same page. I had to use a will power to restrain from typing "Continental". The first road bike I have was bought to "try it out". That, as in your case, is a budget one with three requirements (minimal acceptable Shimano groupset, reasonable weight, and double-wall wheels).
After being lucky not to crash in one episode, I started looking for descent tips. Found GCN Channel, immediately got set of Contis "as seen on GCN". I figured out on my own that 28c are way to go. Later - upgraded the brakes. Pretty decent commuter bike I have now.
The second "road looking" bike I got from adventure-gravel-alternate-(chooseYourOwnClassifier) field - few months before GCN declared 2016 a Year of Adventure bikes
That long posting is to show a case when GCN had helped a lot. One year of watching - not a minute (Except unboxing series) of wasted time - they are my remote coaches.
I barely noticed the mudguards on that Canyon
My front disk brake screams only when wet. Any advice on that?
disks always squeal when wet... unfortunately in the uk...
Tarik * So does my girlfriend.
Are we still practicing on Dans bike?
Anyone know the brand of those awesome mudguards on GMBN's canyon?
Crud Road Racer Mk3 Mudguards 700c
Road Bike Maintenance idea : how to center tires on the rims.
How can breaks squeak while getting pushed on carbon fibre?
Luckily only my front brake always makes the screeching noise,so i don't use then,plus since i usually go at higher speeds i don't even use the front brake,on the other hand when my back brakes get some water poured on them(when it's raining or when i go through a puddle)and when they start screeching I'm like nah fam i ain't riding you today,no embarrassment for me
Forum coffee. Like your style si
And for you disc brake riders... put a bigger disc on front if you continue to have squealing noise... I am 87 kg rider and once I changed to bigger rotor all noise stopped on heavy downhill braking.. and all other braking situations.. stock rotors are made for 70 kg riders not us big boys ! Ride safe.
My breaks doesn't squeak, but they work very poorly (I have to pull very hard to get them to break just a bit).
They worked well, then I washed my bike and since then, they've been crap. I hadn't done anything other than wash my bike, but after they turned crap I re-adjusted them and lubricated them without luck. Anyone else this has happened to, that may be able to lend some advice on what to do, cause I feel like I tried a bunch and nothing worked.
baconfromhell666 You don't lubricate breaks, that makes them not work.
Luciano Narno Okay, I didn't lubricate the breaks themselves, but the break shifters.
baconfromhell666 oh okay, also if the cables are old they can wear down and the outer gives and stretches when you pull the lever which means a big part of the force you apply at the levers gets lost in the cable before even teaching the break caliper. I changed my cables about a month ago and it made my brakes work like new. So yeah, if you can change the brake cables, inner and outer.
Good luck mate
Luciano Narno The bike is less than a year old, so the cables aren't that old. Also, if it was because they were worn, it wouldn't just go from feeling fine to crap in an instant.
well all I can think about is glazed pads then, sand them down a little and I even went as far as to sanding my training wheels' brake track with 1000 grit to remove the perfect polish and make the pads grab better. worked perfect
i put my earphones in and turn the music louder and bääääm, no noisy breaks to hear,hehe. just joking, nice video guys.
Man street dogs almost got me.. I was braking and then it produce lot of noise which makes those dogs crazy
Or you can just coat the rims/discs and pads with a thick layer of grease. ;)
Goodluck braking
You are an extremely attractive guy and your accent is something over the top
Fenders on a road bike: 6th crime against cycling!
TheDaschoeber When cycling in winter you don't want freezing water to get on your ass, fenders are protected under the cycling self defense act of 1974.
Riding in the UK through the winter, fenders make lots of sense.
They are attached with Velcro so easy to remove. In the UK they really are useful, me and my bike stay a lot cleaner and dryer.
Am I the only one who likes an insanely loud cassette and squeaky brakes?
No, there must be some others in the world too as the human population rises every year
I think you must be!
Trailing edge is the back, the front is the leading edge. You're welcs
My bmx brakes are so load I just decided to go brakeless
mine started squeaking after it got wet :(
Guys, let me drop this here. You have to, I mean... HAVE TO, interview this guy:
instagram.com/luescher_teknik/
He's en eminency on carbon fiber. Really amazing knowledge. There are few videos on youtue out there which are amazing, and put carbon frames into a delicate situation due to their way of manufacturing.
if the brakes are squeaky, just lube the brake pads. Clearly the logic is telling me that should work, no?
Yuri Rayzberg You don't want to get lubricant in the brake system, it relies on friction to work so lubrication will make your brakes not work properly or at all.
Yes obviously. Another more reliable solution is to remove the break cables. This is more aerodynamic and, more important, no squeaky breaks!
Thanks for all the good suggestions mates! I'll lube the pads, the rims and remove the annoying cables to improve the aerodynamics. Should be fast as fk on my way back today. I will report back about the results tonight!
I know someone that actually did this. They brought there bike to me at work complaining about his brakes not working. They had lube all over the pads and rims. When I asked WTF, he replied that they were squealing so he lube them.
Joe Irving 😂😂😂
S
And if after all that they still squeak, give up road cycling and become a velodrome cyclist. They don't even have brakes, so no more squealing! :-) (Or, become a bicycle messenger. They don't have brakes either, nor do they need them since they ignore red lights anyway! :-)