It helps to relief cut the floor of the pocket in the jaws to only only allow part to touch floor around the perimeter of the part or on several isolated pads. With a large surface on the floor of the jaws, If/when the jaws lift near the center from pressure, the part will be rocking on the high point. When you tap with a dead blow it could randomly rock in different direction on each part causing parallel and OAH issues.
I see that a lot on those older self centering vices without an angled lock to suck the floating jaw down. Some of them lift so bad it creates that high crown in the center where the part rocks. I had to do exactly as you mentioned to get them to lay flat at a company I worked for previously. Glad you mentioned it! 🤙
I usually take a 1/8 and cut about .02 below the floor on the profile to relieve the bottom corner radius (even a square endmill will leave a little R in the bottom). Helps to keep the part from lifting when tightening
Anytime you get vibration from roughing hard it will cause those nasty black spots on your part if not gripped well enough. Little parts usually don’t have that issue since you can’t rough as hard. :)
Really solid information. I agree with your ideology of clamping the parallel close to the clamping region in -Z-...I would like to add my own pseudomachinist perspective to help... I personally use pins/ shims to clamp my vice on, before cutting jaws to allow for a taper to the jaw. You can also get creative and change clamping pressure at the finish spring pass(like a few inch pounds). Adding dovetail reliefs is my secret sauce, similar to what you were describing in those radia, to areas I imagine needing some flexibility when touching inconsistent surfaces.... Hopefully that makes sense, but overall your strategy is absolutely great pseudomachinist knowledge
I sometimes use 1/8" thick aluminum scraps right at the top of the soft jaws and cut the profile, mimicks rhe flaring of a part accurately and you're not cutting steel parallels.
The dovetail trick is the best when needed. I almost brought it up but I think I will save that for when I have a part that actually needs the profile undercut on the jaws. Decided having a visual would be best for the audience vs just talking about it. 🤙
Strip of sheet aluminum for the shim, and you can cut it no problem (no risk of ruined parallel or tool) and you get the force at the top where the part is held.
What a dream. Thanks for this video. @Practical Machinist can you make some content covering the business side? Accounting/insurance/odds and ends stuff like that?
Sure thing, thank you for the suggestion! Have you checked the our Machine Shop Talk series? Ian does a great job at sharing his experience running a machine shop.
It helps to relief cut the floor of the pocket in the jaws to only only allow part to touch floor around the perimeter of the part or on several isolated pads. With a large surface on the floor of the jaws, If/when the jaws lift near the center from pressure, the part will be rocking on the high point. When you tap with a dead blow it could randomly rock in different direction on each part causing parallel and OAH issues.
@@reeves29456 that's a good tip
I see that a lot on those older self centering vices without an angled lock to suck the floating jaw down. Some of them lift so bad it creates that high crown in the center where the part rocks. I had to do exactly as you mentioned to get them to lay flat at a company I worked for previously. Glad you mentioned it! 🤙
It came out beautiful
I usually take a 1/8 and cut about .02 below the floor on the profile to relieve the bottom corner radius (even a square endmill will leave a little R in the bottom). Helps to keep the part from lifting when tightening
Great Work!!
good job..thanks for your time
This was helpful, I'm just learning how to run my mill, the point about the witness lines from the part moving was new to me, Thank You.
Anytime you get vibration from roughing hard it will cause those nasty black spots on your part if not gripped well enough. Little parts usually don’t have that issue since you can’t rough as hard. :)
Shawn's awesome 😎
Gold knowledge, ty for the video, I always wondered how you machined your own softjaws
Really solid information. I agree with your ideology of clamping the parallel close to the clamping region in -Z-...I would like to add my own pseudomachinist perspective to help... I personally use pins/ shims to clamp my vice on, before cutting jaws to allow for a taper to the jaw. You can also get creative and change clamping pressure at the finish spring pass(like a few inch pounds). Adding dovetail reliefs is my secret sauce, similar to what you were describing in those radia, to areas I imagine needing some flexibility when touching inconsistent surfaces....
Hopefully that makes sense, but overall your strategy is absolutely great pseudomachinist knowledge
I sometimes use 1/8" thick aluminum scraps right at the top of the soft jaws and cut the profile, mimicks rhe flaring of a part accurately and you're not cutting steel parallels.
The dovetail trick is the best when needed. I almost brought it up but I think I will save that for when I have a part that actually needs the profile undercut on the jaws. Decided having a visual would be best for the audience vs just talking about it. 🤙
I’ve used TIG welding rod to get the jaws to kick. My parallels are not small enough and create a flat portion, I want the jaws to flex.
Super helpful! Thanks!
Run 3 times also?
Strip of sheet aluminum for the shim, and you can cut it no problem (no risk of ruined parallel or tool) and you get the force at the top where the part is held.
Shawn is just a cool dude 😎
Thanks for the tips!
What a dream. Thanks for this video. @Practical Machinist can you make some content covering the business side? Accounting/insurance/odds and ends stuff like that?
Sure thing, thank you for the suggestion! Have you checked the our Machine Shop Talk series? Ian does a great job at sharing his experience running a machine shop.
@@PracticalMachinist I will explore that as well tyty.
Or just run two finish passes. If there is a small radius or sharp inside corner, then you need to relieve it.
Now i know, thankyou
That's right! It's a ring around tool!
Ring around the Rosie!
Banding strap works good to set the gap to, if you don’t have the thin parallels
There you go. Cheap, effective, I like it!
i do dislike soft jaws in a vice , i use a 4 jaw self centring milling chuck and its perfect ,
I call it the swirly whirly or the oh shit I cut myself again
They have no mercy for human skin! 😵
Do you have job for me my friend cnc milling operator ,I am from India