Those LED panels are totally unsmoothed. The LEDs strobe at 100Hz on the rectified DC and use very simple current regulation, so the LEDs tend to only light for the upper part of the sinewave. Hopefully yours was actually earthed, as some of the earth wires are not connected internally. That's not good, because a common failure mode of these lights is for a failed LED to arc and potentially burn through the insulating layer to the aluminium panel it's mounted on. That results in DC biased leakage.
@BigClive.... As much as I thouroughly enjoy your channel, I don't understand why the flickering stopped when plugged into the ring back at the workshop.
Today I walked past the gallery in Belsize Lane where James was tidying the BT cables. OpenReach van there, barriers up around the bit where James was working.
Love this channel and I don’t think people realise how much work goes on in the background. One of my favourites to watch and Tom is such a laugh. The fact they can fix their cars there and stick around just because they want to means there’s a great manager there. Stick together guys!
Thanks for all the great content , as an apprentice , I can say that your content is great not only fucking hilarious , but also educational , learn some great life skills from your content , thank you , I did my first year doing highways but recently switched out to commercial industrial , and it’s a good throw back to see you starting in the highways sector
James: Are you folks still using Posidrive or Philips screws? You need to be using #2 Square Drive/Robertson, once you use them, you'll never use anything else. And they make hex driver bits for impacts and drivers. I use these all day, everyday.
I'm guessing there's enough of a voltage drop on that cable to cause the light to flicker and the other brand is just better at handling that. Also, that 75W is assuming the light has unity power factor, it's probably closer to 60W.
I can highly recommend lights from Ledvance (which is a brand from Osram). They have floodlights in 6500, 4000 and 3000 K, with an competetive price and I very rarely had any problems with them. I don't know how the availability is in the UK, but in Austria/Germany you can get it at the wholesalers really quickly. Also they have other lights too (commercial / industrial), so it's worth checking out!
18:16 - To quote Big Clive, instead of trying (and failing) to prevent any water from getting *_in,_* make sure the water has an easy way to get *_out._*
Anyone else spotted the welsh lad taking a BT 18 off the wall ? No wonder he doesn't recognise the whirring , it's a telephone DP or distribution point ( probably redundant , but a bit of a gamble to remove/work on ) . BTW not having a go at you or the channel , just an observation ;)
Someone else left a comment claiming they walked past there afterwards and there was an Openreach van and barriers around the bit where James was working 😂
TLC sell a full range of LED LITE brand warm white floodlights. Arguably not a 'quality' associated brand but from personal experience - they've been reliable. They have a 3 year warranty too.
These cheap floodlights are cheaper because they use less LED cobs and over drive them, so they are proper bright and pull the full amount of energy and heat up a lot. But they last way less than a proper floodlights. You can mod a 100W cheap floodlight to use 50 to 60% of the power so they last forever without issues even if you get less light.
If you want to change the colour of the light, and you can open it, you could try a photographic gel (plastic sheet) inside and convert from the cool white to warm white, you'll lose a bit of power output and you'll need to be careful of heat (although you can get heat resistant ones too).
Lower wattage LED floodlights normally last quite well as they run cool. However the cheap 100w ones run very hot, combine that with lightweight inadequate cooling fins and an early demise is inevitable.
Hi the bosch Multi Purpose Construction Drill Bits have been around for a long time ive been using the a few years now they are great bits and cheap too and the van looks great with black rims.
My guess is that those floodlights picked up noise on the line. There was something about a dimmer---is there one on their line, too? In that case the dimmer may cut the sine wave down so far that the zero-transition gets so long that the naked eye can see it as flicker.
Flicker could be caused by a mix of the cheaply constructed LED driver circuit and the already choppy supply feeding it. All those other lights on the same supply feed have their own switch mode supplies which will have an impact.
A small noisy ripple superposed on the 230V AC won't be noticeable with any meter (or oscilloscope; a spectrum analyzer could be useful, not really an electricians tool however) I would try to add a small 230V rated capacitor in parallel with the lamp, it should take care of the (majority) of the noise...
Most of the lighting I install is Ansell. They do Calinor in warm and cool white. I've got them all down a drive and washing up trees etc on a hotel. Most of them have been facing the sky for 6 years and she thus far survived the Scottish elements
Regarding the gel... I spoke to a rep from Wiska at Elex last month who enlightened me about why IP66 boxes get wet inside. It is due to pressure differentials throughtout the year. Inside the box, being a vacuum, draws in moisture from the air from chages between hot weather and cold weather causing condensation inside the box BUT they have an answer to boxes above ground (not buried under ground which do need gel) in the form of VentGland or VentPlug which equalise the pressure throughout the year.
I work in a wet environment and they say a box is ip rated until you drill a hole in it. After that as you say the atmospheric conditions heating cooling and water vapour cause water ingress.
Hang on.: You say that the inside of the box contains a vacuum - yes? - So how does a box that contains a vacuum draw in moisture from the air? If that were the case then the vacuum seal would have to be broken first.
@@Sharron-Idol that is what was explained to me as being the case - the seal is broken by the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to warming up and cooling down and drawing in the moist air which condensates inside it.
@@harrymcgill6291 from what he describes it sounds like a fault to earth... which can't occur with selv... probably due to moisture in buried junction boxes rather than damaged cable. But yes you'd have to test first to know that you still have at least two continous cores that aren't directly shorted to each other.
@@mrfrenzy. They won't corrode that quickly infact, but even a couple of years would give them the option of working lights until they're ready to relay the drive and replace cables
Have you checked the supply Voltage at the tree 🎄..? Cheaper fittings have less voltage tolerances than expensive ones... That's why it'll work fine in the workshop because short cable runs... Long cable runs in the garden = volt drop...
Flicker on the floodlight will be the cheapo power supply inside. If you fancy tinkering just put a quality capacitor on the PSU output. That will smooth it and take the flicker out.
I know over time they get quite rusty and they are inefficient, but if you wanted a warm white floodlight use a 500w halogen one. They are Super bright and warm white
@Thomas Nagy could the flickering LED panels have been caused by the low outside temperatures ? .. and bringing them back to the warmer warehouse is what made them work again.
We typically put a gel junction box under the metal trunk of these Bega lights because most of them don’t allow two lines to go in and shorten the attached blue Kabel a bit but leave enough so that you can pull the cans out of their trunk. To be honest we don’t know how that could be done better, except of the metal trunks allow to connect the lines in their again…. And warm white floodlights we use A lot of ledvance/ osram and another companie I currently don’t know the name…
Hi Tom , I am an electrician from Scotland and I personally use the Collingwood flood lights as they are colour changeable as well as very robust fittings, a bit on the pricey range but I have fitted many of them and so far no call backs. Worth a try if you get a chance out of CEF.
Had a frantic phone call from a neighbour on his mobile recently because he’d removed some ‘redundant’ phone cables and cut their phone and internet off. When I got there his daughter was cursing him and his wife offered to give me all his tools as this isn’t the first Captain Chaos incident he’s caused.
Here in belgium we dont fix boxes with screws we always use white stuff called knauf and it works great never had a box come loose even after 50+ years
Try a normal cool white light and then use a filter / fitting over the led panel? Like vinyl or something? Maybe increase the wattage to cover for the reduction of light
On the driveway lights with the failed underground cable... it looks like you've got three core (2 + earth) flex. Would it be an option to work out which of the cores are faulty, say there's a line-earth short, connect them together and swap the whole thing to 12 or 24V? So your brown and yellow/green would be +12 and your blue would be 0. Or whatever combination of cables that makes it function. You'd have to be very careful to label everything, oversleeve, put an obvious sticker where it's fed from saying "it's like this because" etc. etc. but it might work.
@@mrfrenzy. you're quite right, I hadn't considered that aspect! Not that the original install was done in such a way to make it anything close to permanent 😅
@@mikeZL3XD7029 if you've got 6 lamps at 3W each running at 24V it's less than an amp. And the cable looked like it could have been 1.5mm so that doesn't seem too out of whack? Clearly a 50W halogen at each point is going to be problematic!
Collingwood do a flood light range that are CCT and you can set the colour temp switch on the back. We use them all the time now and they are quite reasonably priced. Decent warranty on them too👍
We make led floodlights in power outputs up to 10000 lumens polycarb bodies and replaceable boards and driver colour temps down to 2400k. Not the cheapest but every component driver board etc etc is replaceable so pretty economical in the long run, we hate the idea of all the work going into making and shipping these products and they just end up in the bin. Water finds its own width !!! I have been making IP rated products for over 25 years it's hard !!!! Love the Gel connectors simple effective solution.
You should have measured the voltage exactly at the point of termination with a decent multimeter for those lights. It may be that voltage was out of their range, so volt drop maybe a factor. A lot of electronics requires between 220v and 240. I have seen electronic equipment that has stated 230v and that’s that. Come in any lower and it won’t work right or won’t last long
OTOH, the grid is allowed to fluctuate quite a bit (+/-10%, i.e.between 207 and 253 V)t and devices connected to it must be capable of dealing with it.
Flicker will be from electrical noise from the supply or items on the supply feed. Out of interest was the LED transformer on the supply feed for the flood light. Those cheap LED lights have no smoothing in the circuit usually so that could cause the flicker.
I have 5 of them lights or very alike.I had an issue like that.and my sparky said it was the coldness outside that was causing that.I find that odd.but all 5 are working well now
Re the flickering floods, try asking on the IET wiring & regulations forum, as there may be an electrical/electronics engineer who knows the answer (my guess is harmonics).
You sure you dont have a fair vdrop by the time you get to that light Tom? Would probably explain the flickering if it was to low.... Imagine would effect some makes / models and not others, just depends on how good / bad the fittings are.... Could also explain why that LED strip driver wasnt working?! Might have been right on the voltage limit and happened to be ok again when new one went in, just a thought!
Like Clive said he has dealt with a few of those types.. i recon the voltage at the JB was just low enough to be an issue for the driver circuit. In fairness those 2 look better quality than the ones Clive took apart.. defo check the earth like Clive mentioned.
Electric forklifts have hydraulic motors so the are rock solid. At my old unit, one of the guys had a right ropey forklift with old crusty batterys. It always run out of guts on the small incline of the alley drive way. Forever asking the engineere to give it a tow in his automatic jeep thing with the fork lift barley powering its pump. Asked me once, but I said get stuffed, I'm not riding my clutch for 3 minutes pulling 5 tonnes of scrap up the drive. BTW, stick that flood light in the fridge or freezer, bet it flickers then.
LED Technologies do a warm white flood but 60W not 100W, you need to look at architectural LED lighting suppliers not the box shifting wholesalers. You can also get the Robus HiLume 100W in Warm white.
Those 2V cells in the fork-lift batter look to be what we called submarine cells, supposedly because they were used in subs. Their virtue was that they suffer little degradation from deep discharge. The can't move if no power at all is probably a "safety feature". But if so not having some way of negating the interlock in an emergency is daft engineering.
Those cheap led fittings are usually over driven hard & all the ones I've used have lasted about 13 months (typical) & then one led chip will fail & drag the rest down so it'll flicker or run dim
Agree regarding the boxes and grip filling…has an apprentice put them in on first fix and had the same issue with a single skin wall and grip filled in…but put them in so pissed it was like a diamond! Had to yank them out and it was a nightmare!
I am sure you can get a collingwood fitting which you can choose the light output I am supposed to be fitting one tomorrow and collingwood gear is usually very good cef sell them don't get why they would not have told you. Been loving the content, a real spark showing how all good electricians work none of this fake stuff telling us we should never work on a live cu and lots of other rubbish that is not realistic for us to do.
I have 2 of those floods which I use indoors with plugs on the flex. They don’t flicker , but, they do get hot enough they you can’t touch them. I can’t imagine they’ll last that long in that condition.
I love watching your videos every week and I love them but please change the lamp in the light in the kitchen area of the unit please hahahaha it’s making my brain go nuts 😂😂😂 but seriously I love watching every week .
Gripfill: Sorry mate, tried that stuff on a job, very, very not good. Took ages to go off, and until it did, the box moved around on the wall; so running cables into it was a no go. Expanding foam however, very fckn good. Use that stuff whenever poss. if you've got a line of accessories in a row, that stuff's great for setting them up properly, keeping them exactly where you want them. Jolly good, carry on 😁
Might be the rectifying circuit that is under a certain voltage and causes flickering. I once had a light that flickers when the line and neutral was swopped.
The Waterproof gel is an excellent idea it's the first time I've seen it. Just wondering would clear silicone do the same job, as it's non conducting & Waterproof?
Thanks for this Tom. As for your flickering flood.... what is the voltage drop at the tree? It looks like it might be a fair way from the house and sharing the supply. The driver might be sensitive more than the spot next to it. Instead of using a plastic coated hand screwdriver attachment, why not buy a long bit James? London is full of angry people all rushing, or wanting to rush somewhere but with the amount of traffic most of your day is sat still in traffic jams really chilling out those already angry people....... not. I don't see an issue with using adhesive, you would deform the steel of the back box before the adhesive would give way and is stronger than a lot of mechanical fixings of a screw and red plug. Perfect pairing of Skittles, Smarties and M&Ms BTW, the question is peanut or chocolate? 👍😊
In that cold weather maybe you had 30mins-1 hour until that Wiska Gel (Magic gel, I call it) was getting hard. On temperatures above 20C yeah, you have 5 minutes to work with it :)
Could those LED panels have such a lousy driver circuit that it jams RCDs like a D-Lok? If so, it'd be worth checking that it's wired properly and not got N-E reversed (which would work fine on TN-S or TN-C-S but would not be happy on a TT supply).
1:52 The same case of San Pellegrino water at Costco here in the USA is over $20 now. I guess shipping water from there to here with as expensive as shipping containers are is the reason! 🤦♂️😊🍻
Those LED panels are totally unsmoothed. The LEDs strobe at 100Hz on the rectified DC and use very simple current regulation, so the LEDs tend to only light for the upper part of the sinewave. Hopefully yours was actually earthed, as some of the earth wires are not connected internally. That's not good, because a common failure mode of these lights is for a failed LED to arc and potentially burn through the insulating layer to the aluminium panel it's mounted on. That results in DC biased leakage.
i could actually hear your voice whilst i was reading this Clive
I'm pretty sure at some point big Clive will just be uk electrical advice service for all UK yt. Barry, ashen Tom you name it
As soon as Tom asked the question - I just knew that you would know the answer. So pleased that you saw it and have provided a solution.
Would be great if Tom sent one of them over to Clive for a tear apart
@BigClive.... As much as I thouroughly enjoy your channel, I don't understand why the flickering stopped when plugged into the ring back at the workshop.
that redundant wiring removed was a BT distribution point....😬 be an engineer back there to install a new block and tail before long!
I guess that's a roundabout way to get it sorted... eeek. I can only hope all the pairs weren't chopped too short....
Today I walked past the gallery in Belsize Lane where James was tidying the BT cables. OpenReach van there, barriers up around the bit where James was working.
Judging by the look of those wires, i wonder if all the residents will see a nice boost in their internet speeds with some fresh terminations.
Love this channel and I don’t think people realise how much work goes on in the background. One of my favourites to watch and Tom is such a laugh. The fact they can fix their cars there and stick around just because they want to means there’s a great manager there. Stick together guys!
Thomas must be paying his dentist good money. Because his smile lights up brighter than any LED floodlights in the dark.
You're not suggesting he's had a "Hammond" are you? ;-)
Thanks for all the great content , as an apprentice , I can say that your content is great not only fucking hilarious , but also educational , learn some great life skills from your content , thank you , I did my first year doing highways but recently switched out to commercial industrial , and it’s a good throw back to see you starting in the highways sector
James:
Are you folks still using Posidrive or Philips screws?
You need to be using #2 Square Drive/Robertson, once you use them, you'll never use anything else.
And they make hex driver bits for impacts and drivers.
I use these all day, everyday.
I'm guessing there's enough of a voltage drop on that cable to cause the light to flicker and the other brand is just better at handling that.
Also, that 75W is assuming the light has unity power factor, it's probably closer to 60W.
I can highly recommend lights from Ledvance (which is a brand from Osram). They have floodlights in 6500, 4000 and 3000 K, with an competetive price and I very rarely had any problems with them. I don't know how the availability is in the UK, but in Austria/Germany you can get it at the wholesalers really quickly. Also they have other lights too (commercial / industrial), so it's worth checking out!
18:16 - To quote Big Clive, instead of trying (and failing) to prevent any water from getting *_in,_* make sure the water has an easy way to get *_out._*
Anyone else spotted the welsh lad taking a BT 18 off the wall ? No wonder he doesn't recognise the whirring , it's a telephone DP or distribution point ( probably redundant , but a bit of a gamble to remove/work on ) . BTW not having a go at you or the channel , just an observation ;)
I knew several ppl weren’t gonna be happy with that. And thats just the local residents
Someone else left a comment claiming they walked past there afterwards and there was an Openreach van and barriers around the bit where James was working 😂
TLC sell a full range of LED LITE brand warm white floodlights. Arguably not a 'quality' associated brand but from personal experience - they've been reliable. They have a 3 year warranty too.
Fitted loads there good 👍
@@danielhearnden3776 *they’re*
@@danielhearnden3776 Where is good?
we use petroluem jelly/vaseline to reliably keep moisture out of connectors
works for years
Also highly flammable
These cheap floodlights are cheaper because they use less LED cobs and over drive them, so they are proper bright and pull the full amount of energy and heat up a lot. But they last way less than a proper floodlights. You can mod a 100W cheap floodlight to use 50 to 60% of the power so they last forever without issues even if you get less light.
If you want to change the colour of the light, and you can open it, you could try a photographic gel (plastic sheet) inside and convert from the cool white to warm white, you'll lose a bit of power output and you'll need to be careful of heat (although you can get heat resistant ones too).
And lose any warranty you might have had.
Lower wattage LED floodlights normally last quite well as they run cool. However the cheap 100w ones run very hot, combine that with lightweight inadequate cooling fins and an early demise is inevitable.
What's the voltage drop on that garden supply by the time you get to the fitting? It might be fine for 1 brand, but not the other?
Exactly what I was going to write.
Absolute madness the turn this channel has taken 👍loving the Welsh fella !
Hi the bosch Multi Purpose Construction Drill Bits have been around for a long time ive been using the a few years now they are great bits and cheap too and the van looks great with black rims.
My guess is that those floodlights picked up noise on the line.
There was something about a dimmer---is there one on their line, too? In that case the dimmer may cut the sine wave down so far that the zero-transition gets so long that the naked eye can see it as flicker.
Flicker could be caused by a mix of the cheaply constructed LED driver circuit and the already choppy supply feeding it. All those other lights on the same supply feed have their own switch mode supplies which will have an impact.
A small noisy ripple superposed on the 230V AC won't be noticeable with any meter (or oscilloscope; a spectrum analyzer could be useful, not really an electricians tool however) I would try to add a small 230V rated capacitor in parallel with the lamp, it should take care of the (majority) of the noise...
Maybe it was to cold outside
Better lamps will have better capacitive filtering on the driver output. More components, more £££.
@@laurensscheldeman4121 You could probably swipe a capacitor out of an old fluorescent unit.
Most of the lighting I install is Ansell. They do Calinor in warm and cool white. I've got them all down a drive and washing up trees etc on a hotel. Most of them have been facing the sky for 6 years and she thus far survived the Scottish elements
There should be a jar at the unit so that everytime Tom says "You know" he puts a quid in it. When it's full, donate it.
Make more with one for repeating himself 😄 Great presentation.
Regarding the gel... I spoke to a rep from Wiska at Elex last month who enlightened me about why IP66 boxes get wet inside. It is due to pressure differentials throughtout the year. Inside the box, being a vacuum, draws in moisture from the air from chages between hot weather and cold weather causing condensation inside the box BUT they have an answer to boxes above ground (not buried under ground which do need gel) in the form of VentGland or VentPlug which equalise the pressure throughout the year.
I work in a wet environment and they say a box is ip rated until you drill a hole in it. After that as you say the atmospheric conditions heating cooling and water vapour cause water ingress.
Hang on.: You say that the inside of the box contains a vacuum - yes? - So how does a box that contains a vacuum draw in moisture from the air? If that were the case then the vacuum seal would have to be broken first.
@@Sharron-Idol that is what was explained to me as being the case - the seal is broken by the expansion and contraction of the plastic due to warming up and cooling down and drawing in the moist air which condensates inside it.
@@olly7673 I understand what you're saying and the point you're making; but vacuum it is not. :)
@@Sharron-Idol a better term would be "sealed", or as wiska put it, "hermetically sealed"
You should put some mini eggs in the dispenser
I was surprised to see that in your warehouse full of electrical equipment stock, you didn't have a spare 13A plug 😂 Great video
Them items of stock are chargeable, to be used on jobs only.
Do you even contract?
Theft and modification of Openreach property is a bit of a liability boys.
Re driveway lights, if possible insert a transformer after the switch and convert the ground lights to 12v selv, then they can't trip and will be safe
But ist there a damaged wire underground or short
@@harrymcgill6291 from what he describes it sounds like a fault to earth... which can't occur with selv... probably due to moisture in buried junction boxes rather than damaged cable. But yes you'd have to test first to know that you still have at least two continous cores that aren't directly shorted to each other.
@@lewistempleman9752 👍🏻👍🏻
The connections will corrode away anyways even if you get it working for a short while.
@@mrfrenzy. They won't corrode that quickly infact, but even a couple of years would give them the option of working lights until they're ready to relay the drive and replace cables
I know how you feel we have been really cold here lately and we have been getting snow here too.
As someone who has watched your channel from the start you have come a long way. Love the banter.
Have you checked the supply Voltage at the tree 🎄..?
Cheaper fittings have less voltage tolerances than expensive ones...
That's why it'll work fine in the workshop because short cable runs...
Long cable runs in the garden = volt drop...
Flicker on the floodlight will be the cheapo power supply inside. If you fancy tinkering just put a quality capacitor on the PSU output. That will smooth it and take the flicker out.
True. But it'll also increase the mean voltage, which could cause premature failure.
Collin wood stock a flood light and you can change the colour on it from warm white to cool white. screw fix are stocking them at the moment.
I was about to suggest sending it to Big Clive and as I scroll down the man himself is there!
I know over time they get quite rusty and they are inefficient, but if you wanted a warm white floodlight use a 500w halogen one. They are Super bright and warm white
@Thomas Nagy could the flickering LED panels have been caused by the low outside temperatures ? .. and bringing them back to the warmer warehouse is what made them work again.
We typically put a gel junction box under the metal trunk of these Bega lights because most of them don’t allow two lines to go in and shorten the attached blue Kabel a bit but leave enough so that you can pull the cans out of their trunk. To be honest we don’t know how that could be done better, except of the metal trunks allow to connect the lines in their again….
And warm white floodlights we use A lot of ledvance/ osram and another companie I currently don’t know the name…
Hi Tom ,
I am an electrician from Scotland and I personally use the Collingwood flood lights as they are colour changeable as well as very robust fittings, a bit on the pricey range but I have fitted many of them and so far no call backs. Worth a try if you get a chance out of CEF.
Did everyone's phone and broadband stay working after removing those redundant wires ?
That was definitely a working BT DP lols 😂😂😂
Had a frantic phone call from a neighbour on his mobile recently because he’d removed some ‘redundant’ phone cables and cut their phone and internet off. When I got there his daughter was cursing him and his wife offered to give me all his tools as this isn’t the first Captain Chaos incident he’s caused.
TLC are great for warm white floodlights - they do 10, 30, 50 & 100W. They're all I fit now 👍
Yes sir Mr Nagy I got pack of sweets and gonna enjoy this what more could as for on Monday !!!!
Here in belgium we dont fix boxes with screws we always use white stuff called knauf and it works great never had a box come loose even after 50+ years
Try a normal cool white light and then use a filter / fitting over the led panel? Like vinyl or something? Maybe increase the wattage to cover for the reduction of light
We get 30 and 50 watt osram floods in 3000k , they do exist , love the videos mate 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Maybe minstrels for a dispensing chocolate?
Love your Videos by the way only just found your channel so Iam binge watching !!!
Didn’t realise what you said until now 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for all your help! ❤️ from George @ GoBob
Did the forklift charge ok?
@@Fanta.... yes it did, I think Thomas Nagy should start up his own emergency recovery service for electric warehouse machinery 🤣
On the driveway lights with the failed underground cable... it looks like you've got three core (2 + earth) flex.
Would it be an option to work out which of the cores are faulty, say there's a line-earth short, connect them together and swap the whole thing to 12 or 24V? So your brown and yellow/green would be +12 and your blue would be 0. Or whatever combination of cables that makes it function.
You'd have to be very careful to label everything, oversleeve, put an obvious sticker where it's fed from saying "it's like this because" etc. etc. but it might work.
That's only a temporary workaround. Soon the connections in the water filled box will corrode away.
No, it doesn't work that way, the cross-sectional area with 12V would have to be a LOT larger to carry the required current.
@@mrfrenzy. you're quite right, I hadn't considered that aspect!
Not that the original install was done in such a way to make it anything close to permanent 😅
@@mikeZL3XD7029 if you've got 6 lamps at 3W each running at 24V it's less than an amp. And the cable looked like it could have been 1.5mm so that doesn't seem too out of whack?
Clearly a 50W halogen at each point is going to be problematic!
This guy "shlep" is a piece of work, we need to find this guy 😉
Collingwood do a flood light range that are CCT and you can set the colour temp switch on the back. We use them all the time now and they are quite reasonably priced. Decent warranty on them too👍
Was that Betty crockers drive way?😄
Philips ledinaire do warm white, nice tidy unit. Only fitted cool white but been reliable for me so far!
We make led floodlights in power outputs up to 10000 lumens polycarb bodies and replaceable boards and driver colour temps down to 2400k. Not the cheapest but every component driver board etc etc is replaceable so pretty economical in the long run, we hate the idea of all the work going into making and shipping these products and they just end up in the bin.
Water finds its own width !!! I have been making IP rated products for over 25 years it's hard !!!! Love the Gel connectors simple effective solution.
You should have measured the voltage exactly at the point of termination with a decent multimeter for those lights. It may be that voltage was out of their range, so volt drop maybe a factor. A lot of electronics requires between 220v and 240. I have seen electronic equipment that has stated 230v and that’s that. Come in any lower and it won’t work right or won’t last long
OTOH, the grid is allowed to fluctuate quite a bit (+/-10%, i.e.between 207 and 253 V)t and devices connected to it must be capable of dealing with it.
Flicker will be from electrical noise from the supply or items on the supply feed.
Out of interest was the LED transformer on the supply feed for the flood light.
Those cheap LED lights have no smoothing in the circuit usually so that could cause the flicker.
Try Hudson lighting for decorative lighting. Support British 🇬🇧🇬🇧
They also manufacture wiska spikes for mounting boxes on outdoors
I have 5 of them lights or very alike.I had an issue like that.and my sparky said it was the coldness outside that was causing that.I find that odd.but all 5 are working well now
Re the flickering floods, try asking on the IET wiring & regulations forum, as there may be an electrical/electronics engineer who knows the answer (my guess is harmonics).
You sure you dont have a fair vdrop by the time you get to that light Tom? Would probably explain the flickering if it was to low.... Imagine would effect some makes / models and not others, just depends on how good / bad the fittings are.... Could also explain why that LED strip driver wasnt working?! Might have been right on the voltage limit and happened to be ok again when new one went in, just a thought!
We have been using Collingwood floods from Electric Center, switchable from cold to warm really nice fittings to install
The flickering will be because of a voltage drop that affects this brand but not all led lights
I am not a spark, but I gripfilled all the boxes in my house. No chance they are going anywhere!! :)
Like Clive said he has dealt with a few of those types.. i recon the voltage at the JB was just low enough to be an issue for the driver circuit. In fairness those 2 look better quality than the ones Clive took apart.. defo check the earth like Clive mentioned.
Electric forklifts have hydraulic motors so the are rock solid. At my old unit, one of the guys had a right ropey forklift with old crusty batterys. It always run out of guts on the small incline of the alley drive way. Forever asking the engineere to give it a tow in his automatic jeep thing with the fork lift barley powering its pump. Asked me once, but I said get stuffed, I'm not riding my clutch for 3 minutes pulling 5 tonnes of scrap up the drive.
BTW, stick that flood light in the fridge or freezer, bet it flickers then.
Could someone ask the Welshman, is it true they buy their wellies 2 sizes bigger than normal?? ;-)
🐑🐑 baaaaaaaa
Another great video has always Thomas 👍👌
All m&m’s. Crispy. Peanuts. Chocolate.
LED Technologies do a warm white flood but 60W not 100W, you need to look at architectural LED lighting suppliers not the box shifting wholesalers. You can also get the Robus HiLume 100W in Warm white.
Send the dodgy flickering floodlights to Big Clive for a twardown
Collingwood FL03 have a selector on the back you can choose warm cool or daylight
Use a wiska box to mix the gel poor it back in the jug mark the line for that size wiska box saves wasting to much and speeds it up 👌
Those 2V cells in the fork-lift batter look to be what we called submarine cells, supposedly because they were used in subs. Their virtue was that they suffer little degradation from deep discharge.
The can't move if no power at all is probably a "safety feature". But if so not having some way of negating the interlock in an emergency is daft engineering.
Those cheap led fittings are usually over driven hard & all the ones I've used have lasted about 13 months (typical) & then one led chip will fail & drag the rest down so it'll flicker or run dim
That's a BT DP. The wires are phone lines!!
Agree regarding the boxes and grip filling…has an apprentice put them in on first fix and had the same issue with a single skin wall and grip filled in…but put them in so pissed it was like a diamond! Had to yank them out and it was a nightmare!
Check the earth wire inside its either poked under something or not connected at all.
I am sure you can get a collingwood fitting which you can choose the light output I am supposed to be fitting one tomorrow and collingwood gear is usually very good cef sell them don't get why they would not have told you. Been loving the content, a real spark showing how all good electricians work none of this fake stuff telling us we should never work on a live cu and lots of other rubbish that is not realistic for us to do.
KSR do a warm white floodlight, with colour changing buttons on the back
Thought this was a big Clive video from the title
I personally use Luceco floodlights, they are very good products and don’t break the bank!
I've had that jacket for three years, on the red setting you must been boiling in that warehouse😅
I have 2 of those floods which I use indoors with plugs on the flex. They don’t flicker , but, they do get hot enough they you can’t touch them. I can’t imagine they’ll last that long in that condition.
I love watching your videos every week and I love them but please change the lamp in the light in the kitchen area of the unit please hahahaha it’s making my brain go nuts 😂😂😂 but seriously I love watching every week .
I got a tri-colour floodlight in CEF last month. Collingwood I think, bought it for the warm white option.
Gripfill: Sorry mate, tried that stuff on a job, very, very not good. Took ages to go off, and until it did, the box moved around on the wall; so running cables into it was a no go.
Expanding foam however, very fckn good. Use that stuff whenever poss. if you've got a line of accessories in a row, that stuff's great for setting them up properly, keeping them exactly where you want them.
Jolly good, carry on 😁
All the coffee area needs…. Is some coffee!! Cant see a machine. Only some warmer thing from your grans house
Might be the rectifying circuit that is under a certain voltage and causes flickering. I once had a light that flickers when the line and neutral was swopped.
The Waterproof gel is an excellent idea it's the first time I've seen it. Just wondering would clear silicone do the same job, as it's non conducting & Waterproof?
Cowboy job more like use the gel best stuff ever
2:20 ...Chocolate raisins, 100% all day.
Thanks for this Tom. As for your flickering flood.... what is the voltage drop at the tree? It looks like it might be a fair way from the house and sharing the supply. The driver might be sensitive more than the spot next to it.
Instead of using a plastic coated hand screwdriver attachment, why not buy a long bit James? London is full of angry people all rushing, or wanting to rush somewhere but with the amount of traffic most of your day is sat still in traffic jams really chilling out those already angry people....... not.
I don't see an issue with using adhesive, you would deform the steel of the back box before the adhesive would give way and is stronger than a lot of mechanical fixings of a screw and red plug.
Perfect pairing of Skittles, Smarties and M&Ms BTW, the question is peanut or chocolate? 👍😊
Love a good food light 🤣
In that cold weather maybe you had 30mins-1 hour until that Wiska Gel (Magic gel, I call it) was getting hard. On temperatures above 20C yeah, you have 5 minutes to work with it :)
Could those LED panels have such a lousy driver circuit that it jams RCDs like a D-Lok? If so, it'd be worth checking that it's wired properly and not got N-E reversed (which would work fine on TN-S or TN-C-S but would not be happy on a TT supply).
Colingwood do cct ones just got a switch on it and can change colour to what you want 👌
Watch a big Clive video about them lamps it will be in need of a capacitor to smooth the flicker
1:52 The same case of San Pellegrino water at Costco here in the USA is over $20 now. I guess shipping water from there to here with as expensive as shipping containers are is the reason! 🤦♂️😊🍻
TLC do a warm white LED floodlight 100w, but you pay for it though £80+VAT
3m make weather proof underground connectors. They, for usability sake, beat the crap out of gell pack junctions.
Have you considered a filter or something to diffuse the light?
Check the voltage on your sockets in the unit compared to the tree location