⚠‼⚠Hello my whoop friends. A new learning video/how to video for you! If you like it and would like to support my work then make sure you run the whole video (for the UA-cam algorithm). And send it to your friends or share it on social media. Please also note the other videos on this channel, the option to subscribe to this channel and my other channels. If you still have any questions, please ask them in the comments of this video. I will answer you as soon as possible (two weeks max.) If my work has some value for you and you appreciate it then consider buying BetaFPV products from the following links: Betafpv shop in general: bit.ly/3Lt4mwV It's an affiliate link and it doesn't cost you anything! Betafpv gives me a small share of the sale which helps me to be able to buy products for my hobby and this channel. Thank you in advance my friends! In return, I promise you that my findings will always remain public as before. I will always work for the community! Link to the video where I show you the all the modifications of my Betafpv Meteor 75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition: ua-cam.com/video/2C1fCqvQK1I/v-deo.html My playlist of all my videos about the Betafpv Meteor 75 Pro or Meteor 75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition: ua-cam.com/video/tFV4iYxI8_U/v-deo.html Professional Meteor 75 Pro PID Tune from Uavtech for free: ua-cam.com/video/pfDMKg0XJ14/v-deo.html In case you don't know whether you should buy the Betafpv Meteor 75Pro or the Betafpv Air75: ua-cam.com/video/o1GGBDw7bAY/v-deo.html
@@scottbattaglia8595 Not myself. But the other components. And other pilots have already done it. There is no longer any doubt that removing the plugs reduces the weight. However, weight is not the main reason. The better electrical connection is the main reason for removing the plugs. This whoop is now 29.6g with all the modifications (stock is 31.5g)
@@butterflyfpv it's only 1s 3.7v, there is almost no resistance and the bt 2.0 is a solid connection, so which one is it weight or the resistance in the connection? What really helped my meteor was putting on a set of 18000kv motors......
Thank you for your feedback! Yes it's worked great for me. In combination with connecting the motor cables to the struts of the frame with dental floss..
Been while with these motor plug was great and simplify motor selection ans best way to troubleshoot FC on site. The bad wasn't the socket pin on FC, but the sockets on the Motor Brushless. If could found better motor socket for the Motor only it would be Great, i found out that the very much solution if you couls fix the Tentioneer of the motor Sockets.
Yes, I've almost only had good experiences with it so far. Except once it tore off my solder pad in a very unlucky crash. But this can also happen otherwise. I think the risk is a little higher that the solder pad will come away if things go very badly and something pulls strongly on the motor cable in a crash. But that is very, very rare. It is much more common for the motor cable to break at the soldering point. And with this method this risk is much lower. The average durability of the cables is so much longer.
Great tutorial. I dont use flux when joining the three pins together because at this point i dont want it beading apart (the main point of flux) - I grab the flux after the plug is removed. Also what is the reason for cutting the plug to desolder (I guess maintaining max wire length?). I had many problems with motor wires breaking due to the crimping at the plugs, so i prefer to remove that crimp completely. On FCs where there isnt a big solder pad, you can fit the wire through the original pin hole. Glad to see soldering being recommended though!
Thank you for your feedback! Appreciate it! Honestly, in the end it doesn't matter how you do it. The main thing is that you can remove the plugs. Everyone has to somehow learn for themselves what the best path is for them. I don't insist that my way is the best. It's just the one that works for me. Basically I just want to motivate people to try it out for themselves. Because there will never be a complete tutorial that fits everyone anyway. Leaving 2/3 of the crimped portion on the cable provided more durability in my experience. I do it very successfully at all whoops where I have enough space for it. But the same applies here: Try it out. It is also important that the motor cables are secured to the struts with the tooth side. This contributes a lot to the durability of the motor cables! My ultimate goal is always that my whoop lasts as long as possible without any repairs (apart from propellers).
@@Tokyo_Dom Exactly! And there are so many factors. For example, I solder lead-free. Many people still solder with lead. That alone makes a difference and requires different procedures
Nive video thanks for sharing. Can you show a closer look at the connection part? I'd like to see closer how you oriented your wires to the pads before applying heat to connect them.
Appreciate your feedback. Did you watch the last part of the video? You should actually see it in the last part where I solder the cables. Or do you mean the orientation of the crimp parts remaining on the cable to the board? I orient them with the flat side towards the board. And I solder them to the side of the pad on the board. About 0.5mm protrudes upwards so that I can solder them easily. But orientation doesn't play that much of a role. You can solder them in the way that works best for you. Otherwise I'll take a photo in the near future and post it in my UA-cam community tab.
I find it much easier to wiggle the plugs off the board with pliers, and then just heat up the pins and they fall out. Also its much easier to solder the wires to the board if you remove them from the frame
Thank you for your feedback! Appreciate it! Until now I've never managed it like you say. But I'll try it again! I think in the end it doesn't matter how you do it. The main thing is that you can remove the plugs. Everyone has to somehow learn for themselves what the best path is for them. I don't insist that my way is the best. It's just the one that works for me. Basically I just want to motivate people to try it out for themselves. Because there will never be a complete tutorial that fits everyone anyway.
@@butterflyfpv thats fair enough! I also ended up buying the air75 frame just because the design allows the motors to slide through so you don’t have to solder while theyre in the frame
@@itsjase92 I understand you! But with the motorcables soldered to the side of the pads on the board like in the video, it really isn't difficult. You get used to it. But with the Air75 you definitely have a great whoop. Not as durable as the 75Pro but otherwise very good..
Yes the tiny whoop pinch cam does fit in the higher cam angle cam mount of the 75 Pro canopy. It is a little bit loose in there. But you can secure the cam with glue or with dental floss..
Order doesn't really matter, since the worst that can happen is the motor direction is reversed. Not a problem, as this is easily fixed in betaflight configurator.
Guys let me ask . Why is this meteror 75bpro 1s so agile and powerful yet the any 2s tiny whoop is very sligish and pitch forward at a very small amout ? I🤔. !?
Because of the weight. Every 2S whoop in every size is heavier (and therefore bigger discload) than a 1S whoop. Less weight is more agile on small and medium racetracks or environment.. watch this video on minute five : ua-cam.com/video/0P3PREMKdDc/v-deo.html. he explains it well why light whoops are more agile..
Why not remove one of the spokes from the 75pro frame and solder outside. The frame is massively overbuilt in thickness so it shouldnt be a problem 🤔 and u are saving a bit of weight. Im talking about the spokes going directly to the front. The whoops are connected there anyway with the thick walls so it shouldnt have much of an impact on durability if u dont drill these and u can solder the motors outside.
You still can't solder the motors on outside because they don't fit through the narrow hole next to the battery holder. But as you can see in the video, it's no problem to solder the motors inside the frame. But try it. You can always try.
⚠‼⚠Hello my whoop friends. A new learning video/how to video for you! If you like it and would like to support my work then make sure you run the whole video (for the UA-cam algorithm). And send it to your friends or share it on social media.
Please also note the other videos on this channel, the option to subscribe to this channel and my other channels.
If you still have any questions, please ask them in the comments of this video. I will answer you as soon as possible (two weeks max.)
If my work has some value for you and you appreciate it then consider buying BetaFPV products from the following links:
Betafpv shop in general:
bit.ly/3Lt4mwV
It's an affiliate link and it doesn't cost you anything! Betafpv gives me a small share of the sale which helps me to be able to buy products for my hobby and this channel. Thank you in advance my friends! In return, I promise you that my findings will always remain public as before. I will always work for the community!
Link to the video where I show you the all the modifications of my Betafpv Meteor 75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition: ua-cam.com/video/2C1fCqvQK1I/v-deo.html
My playlist of all my videos about the Betafpv Meteor 75 Pro or Meteor 75 Pro ButterflyFPV Edition:
ua-cam.com/video/tFV4iYxI8_U/v-deo.html
Professional Meteor 75 Pro PID Tune from Uavtech for free:
ua-cam.com/video/pfDMKg0XJ14/v-deo.html
In case you don't know whether you should buy the Betafpv Meteor 75Pro or the Betafpv Air75:
ua-cam.com/video/o1GGBDw7bAY/v-deo.html
Betcha that 2 balls of solder probably equal said plastic connector......🤔
@@scottbattaglia8595 No not at all..
@@butterflyfpv did you weigh it?
@@scottbattaglia8595 Not myself. But the other components. And other pilots have already done it. There is no longer any doubt that removing the plugs reduces the weight. However, weight is not the main reason. The better electrical connection is the main reason for removing the plugs.
This whoop is now 29.6g with all the modifications (stock is 31.5g)
@@butterflyfpv it's only 1s 3.7v, there is almost no resistance and the bt 2.0 is a solid connection, so which one is it weight or the resistance in the connection? What really helped my meteor was putting on a set of 18000kv motors......
Ballsy gapppin' next to the pool!! 😂. Nice build, dude! 👀🔥
😃🤜🤛 The pool is empty! No water in the pool!
Good stuff bud. Enjoying all these tutorials
Thank you for your feedback and support my friend!🤜🤛
Keeping these metal parts on wires is a good idea, actually. Thank you for the video
Thank you for your feedback! Yes it's worked great for me. In combination with connecting the motor cables to the struts of the frame with dental floss..
good video as always - my next mod for sure
Thank you for your support!
Thx, I always wondered how to do it in an easy way. I will try your method...
Been while with these motor plug was great and simplify motor selection ans best way to troubleshoot FC on site.
The bad wasn't the socket pin on FC, but the sockets on the Motor Brushless.
If could found better motor socket for the Motor only it would be Great, i found out that the very much solution if you couls fix the Tentioneer of the motor Sockets.
Thank you so much again!
And thank you for the camera work!😃👍
More great content. Great idea on where to snip motor plugs off 🫡
Yes, I've almost only had good experiences with it so far. Except once it tore off my solder pad in a very unlucky crash. But this can also happen otherwise. I think the risk is a little higher that the solder pad will come away if things go very badly and something pulls strongly on the motor cable in a crash. But that is very, very rare. It is much more common for the motor cable to break at the soldering point. And with this method this risk is much lower. The average durability of the cables is so much longer.
Great tutorial. I dont use flux when joining the three pins together because at this point i dont want it beading apart (the main point of flux) - I grab the flux after the plug is removed. Also what is the reason for cutting the plug to desolder (I guess maintaining max wire length?). I had many problems with motor wires breaking due to the crimping at the plugs, so i prefer to remove that crimp completely. On FCs where there isnt a big solder pad, you can fit the wire through the original pin hole. Glad to see soldering being recommended though!
Thank you for your feedback! Appreciate it! Honestly, in the end it doesn't matter how you do it. The main thing is that you can remove the plugs. Everyone has to somehow learn for themselves what the best path is for them. I don't insist that my way is the best. It's just the one that works for me. Basically I just want to motivate people to try it out for themselves. Because there will never be a complete tutorial that fits everyone anyway.
Leaving 2/3 of the crimped portion on the cable provided more durability in my experience. I do it very successfully at all whoops where I have enough space for it. But the same applies here: Try it out.
It is also important that the motor cables are secured to the struts with the tooth side. This contributes a lot to the durability of the motor cables!
My ultimate goal is always that my whoop lasts as long as possible without any repairs (apart from propellers).
@@butterflyfpv got it. There are many ways to do it I guess! As long as we are soldering it's going to be a good result
@@Tokyo_Dom Exactly! And there are so many factors. For example, I solder lead-free. Many people still solder with lead. That alone makes a difference and requires different procedures
Nive video thanks for sharing. Can you show a closer look at the connection part? I'd like to see closer how you oriented your wires to the pads before applying heat to connect them.
Appreciate your feedback. Did you watch the last part of the video? You should actually see it in the last part where I solder the cables. Or do you mean the orientation of the crimp parts remaining on the cable to the board? I orient them with the flat side towards the board. And I solder them to the side of the pad on the board. About 0.5mm protrudes upwards so that I can solder them easily. But orientation doesn't play that much of a role. You can solder them in the way that works best for you. Otherwise I'll take a photo in the near future and post it in my UA-cam community tab.
@@butterflyfpv You answered my question thank you!
I find it much easier to wiggle the plugs off the board with pliers, and then just heat up the pins and they fall out.
Also its much easier to solder the wires to the board if you remove them from the frame
Thank you for your feedback! Appreciate it! Until now I've never managed it like you say. But I'll try it again! I think in the end it doesn't matter how you do it. The main thing is that you can remove the plugs. Everyone has to somehow learn for themselves what the best path is for them. I don't insist that my way is the best. It's just the one that works for me. Basically I just want to motivate people to try it out for themselves. Because there will never be a complete tutorial that fits everyone anyway.
@@butterflyfpv thats fair enough! I also ended up buying the air75 frame just because the design allows the motors to slide through so you don’t have to solder while theyre in the frame
@@itsjase92 I understand you! But with the motorcables soldered to the side of the pads on the board like in the video, it really isn't difficult. You get used to it. But with the Air75 you definitely have a great whoop. Not as durable as the 75Pro but otherwise very good..
Sorry for the random question on this video, but my question is, Tiny whoop pinch camera can be mounted on meteor 75pro canopy ? Thanks and keep up =)
Yes the tiny whoop pinch cam does fit in the higher cam angle cam mount of the 75 Pro canopy. It is a little bit loose in there. But you can secure the cam with glue or with dental floss..
How do You have so much space? Do u take advantage of public space?
Yes this is a school. A public space on the weekends..
out of the 3 motor cables how do you know which one to solder onto which pad on the board? I mean does the order matters?
Order doesn't really matter, since the worst that can happen is the motor direction is reversed. Not a problem, as this is easily fixed in betaflight configurator.
I'll do it like @BenjaminMeasures said..
Guys let me ask . Why is this meteror 75bpro 1s so agile and powerful yet the any 2s tiny whoop is very sligish and pitch forward at a very small amout ? I🤔. !?
Because of the weight. Every 2S whoop in every size is heavier (and therefore bigger discload) than a 1S whoop. Less weight is more agile on small and medium racetracks or environment.. watch this video on minute five : ua-cam.com/video/0P3PREMKdDc/v-deo.html. he explains it well why light whoops are more agile..
Why not remove one of the spokes from the 75pro frame and solder outside. The frame is massively overbuilt in thickness so it shouldnt be a problem 🤔 and u are saving a bit of weight. Im talking about the spokes going directly to the front. The whoops are connected there anyway with the thick walls so it shouldnt have much of an impact on durability if u dont drill these and u can solder the motors outside.
You still can't solder the motors on outside because they don't fit through the narrow hole next to the battery holder. But as you can see in the video, it's no problem to solder the motors inside the frame. But try it. You can always try.
war im pool wasser drin
Ohhhh noooo.. gut trocknen lassen.. Und dann weiter gehts mit üben😎
@@butterflyfpv nein ich meinte war wasser in dem pool das man im Video sieht
@@nilshaller Ach so xD Nein war kein wasser drinn!