Excellent, and for anyone watching, this is ALMOST EXACTLY how it works on the 3G Acura TL as well. Great video! Thank you for making the effort to do this.
I just saw all these comments. Thank you all for watching and the feedback. sorry it was so shaky I was trying to do it by myself. with a cell phone. the reason you change the pressure switch is out is because automatic transmission switch gears based off of air pressure. after a while those pressure switches go out and make stop building up the appropriate amount of pressure to change gears. as far as throwing a code, no it was not. The only reason I knew I had something wrong was because my car was not changing gears smoothly or at all. the pressure switches actually ended up not being the issue there was an issue with the computer that told the engine when to change gears. I got that fixed for about $1,000. now the car runs great. 250k 12 yr old.
GARRETT Can you please provide us with a response as to what was wrong with the $1000 computer issue? Maybe you can check your service records or simply call the shop that performed the repair & then provide us with an update by replying here, this is an unsual issue & more details would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Soooooo Helpful and sooo kind of you to take this messy dirty trouble to show us this "how to" .... it really saved me the time and trouble to get it right .... Thanks a million ... we really do appreciate it.
Hi Garrett does reverse have a pressure switch or a transmission solenoid .. my car doesnt go into reverse but goes in drive.. and drives fine..thanks bro
I have an Accord Tourer 2.4 vtec year 2003; do you know how many oil pressure switches it has? I'm talking about the P0700, automatic transmission pressure switch. Thank you!
Is this the "fourth gear pressure switch"? I need to change mine on an 04. Has new rebuilt trans but now I am told I need to change the sensor. If so I can DIY with this video let me know and thanks.
hello there I am trying to find out where my ac pressure switch on my 2004 honda accord ex 2.4 liter engine is located please if you know , thanks in advance
I have the same make and model ('03 Honda Accord EX 3.0 V6) and I have issues shifting from 2nd-3rd, or 3rd-4th gear. The car acts like it's hesitating to switch gears. Reach the high range of your RPMs, then the car feels like it sets in Neutral for over a second before grabbing the next gear. If you're heavy on the throttle while it does this, it can be very VERY unsettling. Took it to the Honda dealership, paid for their "Master Mechanic" to diagnose the overall problem, and their ultimate solution was that I need a brand new transmission($4,000). You really can't make this stuff up! lol I am going to do more research, but this video helps out a lot and probably going to replace some of these pressure switches and see if that helps. Anyone else have similar issues with Shifting on these older Hondas???
Kyle Cooper that’s exactly what the Honda dealer mechanic told me on my Honda Accord 07 ,over 250,000. They checked it afterwards it ran normal for 2 weeks before the problem came back. I’ll try and change the pressure switches and trans fluid and see. I would rather buy another car than replace the transmission for $3,000 to $4,000
I’m having the exact same issue on my 03 V6 accord except it’s only does in 3rd gear once it goes into 3rd gear it’s like it’s it’s in neutral up until it engages at 4000 rpm but instantly looses power in 3rd when dropping down rpms never has down this before regular atf dw1 change plus filter I’m assuming mines needs a rebuild or replaced if these pressure switches don’t change shi
@@kylet3986 My 03 v6 has the exact same symptoms as you mentioned...Did you find a solution? I have changed the Transmission fluid, two cycles of 3.1 quarts, In my case it is random..may go several weeks till the symptom shows up again, third gear..appears to go into neutral then high rpms, let off gas it goes into gear..Car only has 60,000 miles one owner never abused. Well maintained.
Could a Check Engine Light (CEL) code: P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or stuck off for a '04 Honda Accord EX 2.4L 4-Dr Sedan Automatic (approximately 259,000 miles) just be a Solenoid issue or something else (Pressure switch, etc) if the car is not going into Reverse for up to 2 minutes & the same thing for Drive (Have to wait a few seconds up to 2 minutes) Drive light blinks, Check Engine Light is on & that is the only code displayed; P0756 Shift Solenoid B performance or Stuck Off (Other issues: Sometimes there's a quick grinding sound when the car is switching into gear usually after the car is stopped at a stop sign/light then moving again, RPMs rev up high but the speedometer stays low & takes a while to switch gears. After the CEL had been cleared the car drove fine in all gears, 65mph no problem, etc then when the CEL & blinking Drive light came back on it had the issues listed above). Other Notes: Honda dealership recently drained/filled with new transmission fluid approximately 3 weeks later while up in the mountains I had a loose negative battery connection; dashboard lights flickered, RPMs reved high with harder shifting, after I realized it was a loose negative battery connection I used a Shim to fill the gap>Battery connection issue fixed but then I started experiencing transmission issues; Just delayed shifting (High RPMs before kicking into gear) took the shim off which obviously involved disconnecting the negative battery cable then lone behold the car was shifting fine. Had to put the shim back in (loose connection) then the same transmission problems started to occur again & became progressively worse as mentioned above. Later after the car finally kicked into Drive it was taken to a transmission shop & they said they were barely able to get it into their bay by pushing it (While in Neutrel) They said it needed to be driveable to run their scan tool to pull codes/test the transmission & their final result is they said it needs a rebuilt transmission ($4500+) no code scans, test drive, they believe it couldn't just be the solenoid, etc. Since it delays so long and or doesn't go into Reverse gear or drive (Not sure how long they actually waited to give the car a chance to go into those gears). If the transmission is actually no good I will take it to a shop that takes the exsisting original transmission out & rebuilds that $2000-$2800 instead of this shop who only orders comptely rebuilt ones for $4500+ (They said they don't rebuild transmissions on foreign cars because they had too many issues & only rebuild original transmissions on American vehicles). Just wanted some feedback, opinions if they still could've scanned the vehicle properly since it starts & even if it can't kick into gear to test drive it and also based on this info if it still could be a Solenoid fix etc (Lengthy info in case this is helpful to determine the issue better & in case this is beneficial to anyone else experiencing similar issues).
@@milehighbuilt6373 Damn! Mine just go in first gear and reverse, once that I move the gear shift from P to Neutral, D or 1st the D goes blinking, I already changed both solenoids but still the same, would you recommend me to change the transmission pressure sensors too?
@@j4n83benja I'd do more research or ask someone more familiar with transmissions first, check the trans fluid and see if it's dark=Not a good aign. Maybe also see if there's some free estomates from reputable transmissions shops. You're kinda stuck in the middle since you already started repairs....just make wise decisions going forward>Do your research first, if you end up going with a transmission rebuild make sure it's a high rated quality shop with warranty in writing and report any issues immediately even unusual sounds>Motor mounts might need to be adjusted, etc.
Excellent, and for anyone watching, this is ALMOST EXACTLY how it works on the 3G Acura TL as well. Great video! Thank you for making the effort to do this.
I just saw all these comments. Thank you all for watching and the feedback. sorry it was so shaky I was trying to do it by myself. with a cell phone.
the reason you change the pressure switch is out is because automatic transmission switch gears based off of air pressure. after a while those pressure switches go out and make stop building up the appropriate amount of pressure to change gears.
as far as throwing a code, no it was not. The only reason I knew I had something wrong was because my car was not changing gears smoothly or at all.
the pressure switches actually ended up not being the issue there was an issue with the computer that told the engine when to change gears. I got that fixed for about $1,000. now the car runs great. 250k 12 yr old.
Garrett Christian great vid
Garrett Christian so the culprit is the transmission control module? Please my Accord is also not going into gear well or at all sometimes
GARRETT Can you please provide us with a response as to what was wrong with the $1000 computer issue? Maybe you can check your service records or simply call the shop that performed the repair & then provide us with an update by replying here, this is an unsual issue & more details would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Soooooo Helpful and sooo kind of you to take this messy dirty trouble to show us this "how to" .... it really saved me the time and trouble to get it right .... Thanks a million ... we really do appreciate it.
We have the same exact vehicle. This was precisely what I was needing to know. Many many thanks to you!
Damn man i love it best video I've seen yet
Well explained - thank you. good stuff mate
Are those switches in the same general area for the 4 cylinder? i have a tsx and cant find anything on it, i guess ill start exploring as you did
Hi Garrett does reverse have a pressure switch or a transmission solenoid .. my car doesnt go into reverse but goes in drive.. and drives fine..thanks bro
What was the reason that you switched them out
I have an Accord Tourer 2.4 vtec year 2003; do you know how many oil pressure switches it has? I'm talking about the P0700, automatic transmission pressure switch. Thank you!
Is this the "fourth gear pressure switch"? I need to change mine on an 04. Has new rebuilt trans but now I am told I need to change the sensor. If so I can DIY with this video let me know and thanks.
hello there I am trying to find out where my ac pressure switch on my 2004 honda accord ex 2.4 liter engine is located please if you know , thanks in advance
Great job. thank you so much for helping us.
note: one little comments please keep the camera stable. Thanks
Hi. My accord has oil all over that side. Like a leak or something. Does a bad pressure switch cause to leak. Let me know. Thanks
truejey 747 did you ever fix it?
What part number did you use for this?
Thank you 🙏🏼
Hello Garret. Where is the 1st to 2nd pressure switch....my CL7 has a jerk going to 2nd from 1st .
Did you get this fixed ? I’m having the same issue. Hard down shift from 2nd- 1st
Yes. I got it fixed.
@@kadeers Was it the pressure switch?
Yes it was Brian
Hello. My car missing second gear when speeding down. She comes from 3rd to first. Can you u please help me out.
Which part is the pressure switch under the vtec?
Thank you!!!!!!
Do you happen to know which switch Is what part number?
I have the same make and model ('03 Honda Accord EX 3.0 V6) and I have issues shifting from 2nd-3rd, or 3rd-4th gear. The car acts like it's hesitating to switch gears. Reach the high range of your RPMs, then the car feels like it sets in Neutral for over a second before grabbing the next gear. If you're heavy on the throttle while it does this, it can be very VERY unsettling. Took it to the Honda dealership, paid for their "Master Mechanic" to diagnose the overall problem, and their ultimate solution was that I need a brand new transmission($4,000). You really can't make this stuff up! lol I am going to do more research, but this video helps out a lot and probably going to replace some of these pressure switches and see if that helps. Anyone else have similar issues with Shifting on these older Hondas???
Kyle Cooper that’s exactly what the Honda dealer mechanic told me on my Honda Accord 07 ,over 250,000. They checked it afterwards it ran normal for 2 weeks before the problem came back. I’ll try and change the pressure switches and trans fluid and see. I would rather buy another car than replace the transmission for $3,000 to $4,000
I’m having the exact same issue on my 03 V6 accord except it’s only does in 3rd gear once it goes into 3rd gear it’s like it’s it’s in neutral up until it engages at 4000 rpm but instantly looses power in 3rd when dropping down rpms never has down this before regular atf dw1 change plus filter I’m assuming mines needs a rebuild or replaced if these pressure switches don’t change shi
@@kylet3986 did changing the pressure switch help
@@kylet3986 My 03 v6 has the exact same symptoms as you mentioned...Did you find a solution? I have changed the Transmission fluid, two cycles of 3.1 quarts, In my case it is random..may go several weeks till the symptom shows up again, third gear..appears to go into neutral then high rpms, let off gas it goes into gear..Car only has 60,000 miles one owner never abused. Well maintained.
which obd code is this related to ?
P0746 or p0777. God bless
Goog job. I have a cuestión. May you. Teld me. My R in my trany. Doesent work. I dont know. If there are. Some electric Valve to R funcion
Could a Check Engine Light (CEL) code:
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or stuck off
for a '04 Honda Accord EX 2.4L 4-Dr Sedan Automatic (approximately 259,000 miles) just be a Solenoid issue or something else (Pressure switch, etc)
if the car is not going into Reverse for up to 2 minutes & the same thing for Drive (Have to wait a few seconds up to 2 minutes) Drive light blinks, Check Engine Light is on & that is the only code displayed;
P0756 Shift Solenoid B performance or Stuck Off
(Other issues: Sometimes there's a quick grinding sound when the car is switching into gear usually after the car is stopped at a stop sign/light then moving again, RPMs rev up high but the speedometer stays low & takes a while to switch gears. After the CEL had been cleared the car drove fine in all gears, 65mph no problem, etc then when the CEL & blinking Drive light came back on it had the issues listed above).
Other Notes: Honda dealership recently drained/filled with new transmission fluid approximately 3 weeks later while up in the mountains I had a loose negative battery connection; dashboard lights flickered, RPMs reved high with harder shifting, after I realized it was a loose negative battery connection I used a Shim to fill the gap>Battery connection issue fixed but then I started experiencing transmission issues; Just delayed shifting (High RPMs before kicking into gear) took the shim off which obviously involved disconnecting the negative battery cable then lone behold the car was shifting fine. Had to put the shim back in (loose connection) then the same transmission problems started to occur again & became progressively worse as mentioned above. Later after the car finally kicked into Drive it was taken to a transmission shop & they said they were barely able to get it into their bay by pushing it (While in Neutrel) They said it needed to be driveable to run their scan tool to pull codes/test the transmission & their final result is they said it needs a rebuilt transmission ($4500+) no code scans, test drive, they believe it couldn't just be the solenoid, etc. Since it delays so long and or doesn't go into Reverse gear or drive (Not sure how long they actually waited to give the car a chance to go into those gears). If the transmission is actually no good I will take it to a shop that takes the exsisting original transmission out & rebuilds that $2000-$2800 instead of this shop who only orders comptely rebuilt ones for $4500+ (They said they don't rebuild transmissions on foreign cars because they had too many issues & only rebuild original transmissions on American vehicles). Just wanted some feedback, opinions if they still could've scanned the vehicle properly since it starts & even if it can't kick into gear to test drive it and also based on this info if it still could be a Solenoid fix etc (Lengthy info in case this is helpful to determine the issue better & in case this is beneficial to anyone else experiencing similar issues).
Damn bro! So at the end what did you do? It was only the transmission computer or it was the whole transmission itself?
@@j4n83benja ended up being the whole transmission>Rebuilt according to two places around 2k
@@milehighbuilt6373 Damn! Mine just go in first gear and reverse, once that I move the gear shift from P to Neutral, D or 1st the D goes blinking, I already changed both solenoids but still the same, would you recommend me to change the transmission pressure sensors too?
@@j4n83benja I'd do more research or ask someone more familiar with transmissions first, check the trans fluid and see if it's dark=Not a good aign. Maybe also see if there's some free estomates from reputable transmissions shops. You're kinda stuck in the middle since you already started repairs....just make wise decisions going forward>Do your research first, if you end up going with a transmission rebuild make sure it's a high rated quality shop with warranty in writing and report any issues immediately even unusual sounds>Motor mounts might need to be adjusted, etc.
Part numbers for both
Why couldn’t you show the fourth gear
Title needs to be changed.
wow what a messy shaky video !!! you need new front tires too bro !