I had to go out of my way and make sure I logged in to thank you for making this video. I had to replace my spark plugs and took the upper manifold out so apparently when I put everything back together, I reversed the locations of the two vacuum hoses that you are talking about in your video. I'm a DIY guy also and I like to pay it forward when I can by making a video that may help another do it yourselfer. Thanks again Joe!
Thanks for your feedback! I'm glad this was helpful. That spark plug job is enough work without having to figure out these vacuum lines. Glad to hear you're back in business.
Great video with detailed troubleshooting steps that should help a lot of people. Can you tell me if vacuum should leak from the black cap on the right side of the solenoid at idle. Both the original and new solenoids leak vacuum from that cap. This is my granddaughters Murano and there have been many unskilled hands under the hood that cause me to question everything. Thank you!
That’s a good question. I’m not 100% sure. I do know that some people have found the two vacuum lines swapped around. I do know the cap is there to allow venting under certain circumstances…just not sure what those circumstances are.
Hey Joe, I have a 2006 Murano, sometimes (sometimes I can't reproduce it no matter how hard i try) I have clattering sounds coming from the engine only under acceleration. It doesn't occur if engine is revved while the car is stationary. No one has really been able to tell what exactly the cause is. Someone even suggested the top gaskets might be going flat. I'm not much of a mechanical guy so pardon my ignorance
Izi E That’s a tough symptom to guess at without seeing the car. My best advice to you would be to always make sure the oil is full. You might be dealing with a timing chain that is not as tight as it should be any longer. Or you might be hearing some valve train noise. Sorry I can’t be more helpful. I haven’t dealt with that particular issue before.
I'm getting a pinging noise only when I accelerate, and no one has figured it out yet.I was thinking of changing the pressure valve actuator. It's driving me crazy 🤪
Hey Joe, my wifes Nissan is throwing this code but also throwing p0300 multiple misfires. Would this part cause misfires and the car to run extremely rough or is it spark plug/ignition coils that are causing this part not to work right?
This shouldn’t cause misfires. If you’re 100 k miles or higher you’re due for plugs. It also shouldn’t make it run rough. If that’s the case use the same plugs as originals.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Wow that's cheap! I searched Amazon and found one with a few hundred positive reviews for $18, supposed to arrive Sunday. Thanks for the quick reply.
My solenoid was bad. The beginning of the video shows how the new solenoid works correctly. The rest of the video teaches you how to test the old solenoid to determine if it’s bad or not.
My Murano starts but when I put it in drive and step on the gas, it takes forever to take off and sometimes it feels like the wheels makes the car rumblr...any ideas?
I’ll answer those things separately because I’m not sure they’re happening at the same time or not. Engine stumbling from a complete stop could be an air intake boot leak or vacuum leak. There’s a recall for the air intake boot. The rumbling could be a bad whee bearing which is also a common repair that these cars need. Best of luck to you.
Hey my 2004 Nissan Quest is going the exact same thing! I have the service engine soon light on and the code P1800 comes up. When I press the gas it takes forever to take off and sounds strange. And also hear rattling from the tires area maybe or under the hood. Did you find a solution for yours?
Would like to know where I'd be able to purchase the vacuum hose AND the wirings that come with the vias control solenoid valve. Damn rats ate 3 of the vacuum hoses and 4 of the wires. Please help.
Vacuum hose can be bought off a roll at any good auto parts store or even Lowes sometimes. If your electrical connectors themselves are good, the old wires can be soldered together by a GOOD technician. If your connectors are shot or damage is very close to connectors you could go to a pick your own part junkyard and cut the harness off an otherwise junk car. Best of luck to you.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Wow Thank you very much sir. Thought I'd have to wait a long time for answer. lol. The connectors are fine. It's the wires that they chewed through. Would have to buy the wires to connect to each end then cover with black tape. But I'll check Lowes for the vacuum hose. Once again I thank you very much.
June Bug I strongly suggest you use solder and then heat shrink over that. If you’re not familiar with heat shrinking you could get away with tape as long it’s tightly wound in a couple layers. The tape will be less impervious to moisture but should last for a while. I would absolutely solder the wires tho.
Hey joe, I have an 07 murano and it’s having a hard time accelerating while on a hill. Do you think it has to do something to do with it? Thanks in advance.
If you don’t have an engine code for this, then it’s probably not the problem. I don’t know about your cars history but I’d look at: spark plugs (around 100k miles), fuel system cleaner treatment, cracked rubber air intake boot (recall issue), and maybe change your CVT fluid. Those are the most common issues I’ve had that made my Murano act weird. The only other one was when I did some work and accidentally left the knock sensor unplugged…the car had significantly reduced power without the knock sensor connected.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY the cars about 72k. Maybe the spark plugs and cvt is overdue. Do you think I also need to change the fuel rail system, injectors? When I start the car, oil light blinks then goes away. Do you ever have that problem joe? Ty sir.
@@GHOST51168 Okay. With that info I would change the CVT fluid ASAP. It’s easier than an engine oil change. Buy 6 qts Nissan NS-2 fluid. I would do the spark plugs next. Use the original equivalent Iridium plugs. That’s a project if you haven’t done it before - the upper intake manifold has to come off. It’s not terrible, just more work. I would not change your fuel rails. I have 281k on my original injectors. I would run a bottle of SeaFoam or other quality fuel system cleaner through the car. Then do it again. Oil light should come on briefly (like your other dash warning lights) when you start the car. Maybe for 3 seconds? Not exactly sure. If the light goes out quickly then it’s acting correctly. If the oil light is staying on, or comes on any other time then you have an oil pressure issue. Common oil leaks are the oil filter cooler seal, and the oil pan if it’s rusty.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY when I drain the cvt fluid it sums up to 6qts joe? Do I have to put all 6 qts in? Yeah changing the spark plugs on this cars can be a hassle. 1,3,5 are in the back. Can an average person do the spark plug in this car? Also it’s better to replace the manifold gasket while at it right joe? Ty sir.
@@GHOST51168 I think it takes a little under 6qts. You should double check that amount. The Nissan dealer where you get the fluid can also tell you. I usually buy 6qts for some reason. Spark plugs: the average mechanic can do the spark plugs no problem. The average person who’s comfortable removing an intake manifold and doing spark plugs will also do just fine. Someone who’s never taken off a manifold should not attempt it.
Hello friend, good day, my 2003 murano when I get to the side and brake at a stop it does not want to accelerate anymore but I turn it off and turn it on again, it returns to normal, it accelerates very well, you think it is the solenoid. Thank you so much
Good afternoon. I know this is 4 years old. I am hoping you still see this. I have a 2014 Nissan Altima, 3.5L. I have a P1801 VIAS control solenoid valve 2 code. I have purchsed the little part that you test in the 2nd half of your video. I disnt realize till i went in to change it, there looke to be 3 of them. Does the 2 in the name designate which one is faulty? Thank you in advance. Jason.
On your engine (based on a brief Google search) you do have more than one of these. It looks like there’s one for the passenger side and one for the driver side of the engine. I’m not sure where the third one could be The “2” probably refers to “bank 2” of this V6 engine. Bank 2 is the side of the engine that does NOT have cylinder #1 in it. I think that sensor 2 (and bank 2) is the driver side of this engine for you.
@Joe's Car Smarts-NY thank you very much. This helps a lot. I could be mistaken that there is a third. Nonetheless. I really appreciate your response and semi-confiming my suspicion on the "2" being a second one i.e. bank 2. The good thing is both are up front and don't have to remove anything extra. No for me to figure out which is which this afternoon. Again, thank you very much. Your time and expertise are greatly appreciated.
my 2006 nissan murano engine stop after 45 min runn, to starting again at least need 10 or 20 min. in computer checking there is no any failer code. what can Ido to resolve the car problem?
That’s a tough one. It sounds like something is getting warm and shutting down. Usually that’s something electronic. When it’s NOT starting properly you need to check for fuel and spark. That’s the beginning of a “no start” troubleshooting process. Need to check for fuel and spark. Those are the two things that are most commonly failing to allow the car to start. Good luck.
That could be several things. Basics: check oil, change oil (if it’s overdue), try using a fuel injector cleaner additive in the gas tank. Also, spark plugs should have been done at 100k miles. Fouled spark plugs can also do some of this.
Hi Joe, do you think the Vias Solenoid would cause my Nissan Murano to stall while im driving it down a road? My car just cuts off and i coast to a stop.
Probably not just the VIAS solenoid. This system only changes the internal air path of the intake plenum (where air comes in). If the solenoid doesn’t operate the engine still gets plenty of air, just through a slightly different pathway so to speak. You should be getting engine codes if your car is doing this. You should have the codes pulled and see what information the car is telling you about why it might be shutting down. Most car parts stores will pull the codes for free to get you started. Good luck to you.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you so much. Going to try the Crankshaft sensor next. Im not getting any codes now after replacing the Vias Solenoid but i havent test drove it yet. However, i did find out if the crankshaft sensor is bad, it doesnt always set off the check Engine light. Thanks for your kind response!
@@Iheartcatz Okay. If you’re not getting codes with this symptom, I’d recommend the camshaft sensors first. They are easier to access and are known to fail. They also don’t set an engine code all the time. I have a video for that project as well. ua-cam.com/video/A6nPeRl_510/v-deo.html
@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok i ordered those too. I just need a smaller ratchet. Couldnt get 10mm screw off. Its in a tight space. Im on it. Thanks so much Joe!
So a neighbor helped me change both sensors. I was able to start and drive the car beforehand, it just died while driving. Now, i cant start it. It revs up but no start. I feel defeated. I paid him $100 for his work.
Carlos If you’ve built up pressure from the engine running, then you should have vacuum at the reservoir with solenoid off. When the solenoid activates (opens) it sends the vacuum to the actuator on the side of the intake. If you’re not building vacuum at the reservoir you may need to check the feed line to the reservoir or see if the reservoir holds a vacuum by itself.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you for replying. So, just to confirm: if the hoses from the intake manifold to the reservoir is in good condition, and the one coming out of the reservoir to the solenoid is in good condition as well and the reservoir builds vacuum, you should have vacuum at the VIAS solenoid from the hose coming out of the reservoir?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I am going to deal with the code p1800 on a Nissan Murano soon. I am just making sure that I know how to diagnose it quickly before I start working on the truck. I watch videos where people just go after the VIAS solenoid without checking for vacuum at the solenoid. The way I will do it is let the truck warm up and check for vacuum at the solenoid. If I find vacuum, I will use my scanner to command the solenoid on and look for vacuum out of the solenoid. No vacuum out of the solenoid, ( with good power and ground at the solenoid)I will replace the solenoid.
That is a good question. I’m not really sure. Here they call it an “Emissions Vacuum Tank”. Don’t know if that’s the official name or not. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183243031312
I replaced the vias control solenoid on my 2004 maxima but it was a used part from like a junkyard instead of brand new, I don’t get any engine light or codes anymore but when I rev it, the actuator doesn’t flip, so any suggestions? should I try to get a new actuator or vacuum canister or maybe try a brand new solenoid?
@@ricardoharris651 Like, it’s missing? Wow. That’s special. Is there a block off plate or something on the end of the intake? That’s not common, but sometimes people defeat the whole system and block off that end of the intake with a special plate.
Okaaay…two things: 1 - This video is four years old and prices can change 2 - If you had clicked the “buy your part here” link in my video you could have bought it for $13 on Amazon. Or…rockauto.com sells for as low as $100. I like AutoZone, but they are good for convenience, not for the lowest price.
I had to go out of my way and make sure I logged in to thank you for making this video. I had to replace my spark plugs and took the upper manifold out so apparently when I put everything back together, I reversed the locations of the two vacuum hoses that you are talking about in your video. I'm a DIY guy also and I like to pay it forward when I can by making a video that may help another do it yourselfer. Thanks again Joe!
Thanks for your feedback! I'm glad this was helpful. That spark plug job is enough work without having to figure out these vacuum lines. Glad to hear you're back in business.
Thanks for free information 🤩🤩
All i want for Christmas is that scanner lol
Gracias por tu tiempo para explicar bien el funcionamiento y lograr hacer un mejor diagnóstico saludos desde Guatemala
Thankx man great video loved how u explained it in multiple ways...
Great information I've been recently dealing with this and this is good how you explained it... thank you....
Excellent video! Thank you!
Excellent video brother, thank you so much,
my good man wonderfully said and put!! Scan tools help a million great vid thx, i can definitely do this fix
Thanks so much i think you have solved my problem
Very helpful, thanks 👍
Great video with detailed troubleshooting steps that should help a lot of people. Can you tell me if vacuum should leak from the black cap on the right side of the solenoid at idle. Both the original and new solenoids leak vacuum from that cap. This is my granddaughters Murano and there have been many unskilled hands under the hood that cause me to question everything. Thank you!
That’s a good question. I’m not 100% sure. I do know that some people have found the two vacuum lines swapped around. I do know the cap is there to allow venting under certain circumstances…just not sure what those circumstances are.
Good explain
What size line is that, I’m looking on Amazon. Is it 6mm opening with 3mm thick wall?
Hey Joe, I have a 2006 Murano, sometimes (sometimes I can't reproduce it no matter how hard i try) I have clattering sounds coming from the engine only under acceleration. It doesn't occur if engine is revved while the car is stationary. No one has really been able to tell what exactly the cause is. Someone even suggested the top gaskets might be going flat. I'm not much of a mechanical guy so pardon my ignorance
Izi E That’s a tough symptom to guess at without seeing the car. My best advice to you would be to always make sure the oil is full.
You might be dealing with a timing chain that is not as tight as it should be any longer. Or you might be hearing some valve train noise.
Sorry I can’t be more helpful. I haven’t dealt with that particular issue before.
Check the egr valve....same thing he is talking about here. That plate that moves could be loose and rattling. Common problem on this engine
Same thing here, I've given up at this point trying to fix it.
I'm getting a pinging noise only when I accelerate, and no one has figured it out yet.I was thinking of changing the pressure valve actuator. It's driving me crazy 🤪
Are you using 93 octane fuel? This generation Murano is designed for it.
Hey Joe, my wifes Nissan is throwing this code but also throwing p0300 multiple misfires. Would this part cause misfires and the car to run extremely rough or is it spark plug/ignition coils that are causing this part not to work right?
This shouldn’t cause misfires. If you’re 100 k miles or higher you’re due for plugs. It also shouldn’t make it run rough.
If that’s the case use the same plugs as originals.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY thanks turned out to be the alternator.
Daniel Nelson AHA. Good information.
Where did you find the off-brand part? My local chain store wants $140 for their OE-replacement part. Thanks for sharing the video.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163742962325
Here’s one option.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Wow that's cheap! I searched Amazon and found one with a few hundred positive reviews for $18, supposed to arrive Sunday. Thanks for the quick reply.
@@Konvinced89 when you replaced the vias solenoid with aftermarket cheap replacement, did it work and more importantly did it last? Thanks
Thanks for video. Curious tho, your were getting a p1800, but the solenoid was good. So, what ultimately was the problem?
My solenoid was bad. The beginning of the video shows how the new solenoid works correctly. The rest of the video teaches you how to test the old solenoid to determine if it’s bad or not.
My Murano starts but when I put it in drive and step on the gas, it takes forever to take off and sometimes it feels like the wheels makes the car rumblr...any ideas?
I’ll answer those things separately because I’m not sure they’re happening at the same time or not. Engine stumbling from a complete stop could be an air intake boot leak or vacuum leak. There’s a recall for the air intake boot. The rumbling could be a bad whee bearing which is also a common repair that these cars need. Best of luck to you.
Hey my 2004 Nissan Quest is going the exact same thing! I have the service engine soon light on and the code P1800 comes up. When I press the gas it takes forever to take off and sounds strange. And also hear rattling from the tires area maybe or under the hood. Did you find a solution for yours?
It’s your step motor for code p1800
Hello, do you have to activate the intake manifold runner valve
Nope. This valve is plug and play.
Would like to know where I'd be able to purchase the vacuum hose AND the wirings that come with the vias control solenoid valve. Damn rats ate 3 of the vacuum hoses and 4 of the wires. Please help.
Vacuum hose can be bought off a roll at any good auto parts store or even Lowes sometimes. If your electrical connectors themselves are good, the old wires can be soldered together by a GOOD technician. If your connectors are shot or damage is very close to connectors you could go to a pick your own part junkyard and cut the harness off an otherwise junk car. Best of luck to you.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Wow Thank you very much sir. Thought I'd have to wait a long time for answer. lol. The connectors are fine. It's the wires that they chewed through. Would have to buy the wires to connect to each end then cover with black tape. But I'll check Lowes for the vacuum hose. Once again I thank you very much.
June Bug I strongly suggest you use solder and then heat shrink over that. If you’re not familiar with heat shrinking you could get away with tape as long it’s tightly wound in a couple layers. The tape will be less impervious to moisture but should last for a while. I would absolutely solder the wires tho.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you. Will look into that.
Like you video, Thanks Brother, God bless you.
Thanks for your feedback. I’m so glad the video was helpful.
Hey joe, I have an 07 murano and it’s having a hard time accelerating while on a hill. Do you think it has to do something to do with it? Thanks in advance.
If you don’t have an engine code for this, then it’s probably not the problem. I don’t know about your cars history but I’d look at: spark plugs (around 100k miles), fuel system cleaner treatment, cracked rubber air intake boot (recall issue), and maybe change your CVT fluid. Those are the most common issues I’ve had that made my Murano act weird. The only other one was when I did some work and accidentally left the knock sensor unplugged…the car had significantly reduced power without the knock sensor connected.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY the cars about 72k. Maybe the spark plugs and cvt is overdue. Do you think I also need to change the fuel rail system, injectors? When I start the car, oil light blinks then goes away. Do you ever have that problem joe? Ty sir.
@@GHOST51168 Okay. With that info I would change the CVT fluid ASAP. It’s easier than an engine oil change. Buy 6 qts Nissan NS-2 fluid. I would do the spark plugs next. Use the original equivalent Iridium plugs. That’s a project if you haven’t done it before - the upper intake manifold has to come off. It’s not terrible, just more work.
I would not change your fuel rails. I have 281k on my original injectors. I would run a bottle of SeaFoam or other quality fuel system cleaner through the car. Then do it again.
Oil light should come on briefly (like your other dash warning lights) when you start the car. Maybe for 3 seconds? Not exactly sure. If the light goes out quickly then it’s acting correctly.
If the oil light is staying on, or comes on any other time then you have an oil pressure issue. Common oil leaks are the oil filter cooler seal, and the oil pan if it’s rusty.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY when I drain the cvt fluid it sums up to 6qts joe? Do I have to put all 6 qts in? Yeah changing the spark plugs on this cars can be a hassle. 1,3,5 are in the back. Can an average person do the spark plug in this car? Also it’s better to replace the manifold gasket while at it right joe? Ty sir.
@@GHOST51168 I think it takes a little under 6qts. You should double check that amount. The Nissan dealer where you get the fluid can also tell you. I usually buy 6qts for some reason.
Spark plugs: the average mechanic can do the spark plugs no problem. The average person who’s comfortable removing an intake manifold and doing spark plugs will also do just fine. Someone who’s never taken off a manifold should not attempt it.
Hello friend, good day, my 2003 murano when I get to the side and brake at a stop it does not want to accelerate anymore but I turn it off and turn it on again, it returns to normal, it accelerates very well, you think it is the solenoid. Thank you so much
This solenoid would not cause your car to do this. It sound like your transmission might be in limp mode.
Good afternoon.
I know this is 4 years old. I am hoping you still see this.
I have a 2014 Nissan Altima, 3.5L. I have a P1801 VIAS control solenoid valve 2 code. I have purchsed the little part that you test in the 2nd half of your video. I disnt realize till i went in to change it, there looke to be 3 of them.
Does the 2 in the name designate which one is faulty?
Thank you in advance.
Jason.
On your engine (based on a brief Google search) you do have more than one of these. It looks like there’s one for the passenger side and one for the driver side of the engine. I’m not sure where the third one could be The “2” probably refers to “bank 2” of this V6 engine. Bank 2 is the side of the engine that does NOT have cylinder #1 in it. I think that sensor 2 (and bank 2) is the driver side of this engine for you.
@Joe's Car Smarts-NY thank you very much. This helps a lot. I could be mistaken that there is a third.
Nonetheless. I really appreciate your response and semi-confiming my suspicion on the "2" being a second one i.e. bank 2. The good thing is both are up front and don't have to remove anything extra.
No for me to figure out which is which this afternoon.
Again, thank you very much. Your time and expertise are greatly appreciated.
@@Nvable I’m glad to help. Good luck with the project.
Hello i have this code but would it cause the vehicle not to go above 20 mph? I have a 2007 maxima
That shouldn’t cause that symptom I don’t think. Do you have any other codes?
It’s probably your transmission cvt
@@johnmarshel6616 no it’s a sensor, my car did the same, CVT TRANSMISSION, and it was a sensor 🤦🏽♂️
my 2006 nissan murano engine stop after 45 min runn, to starting again at least need 10 or 20 min. in computer checking there is no any failer code. what can Ido to resolve the car problem?
That’s a tough one. It sounds like something is getting warm and shutting down. Usually that’s something electronic.
When it’s NOT starting properly you need to check for fuel and spark. That’s the beginning of a “no start” troubleshooting process. Need to check for fuel and spark. Those are the two things that are most commonly failing to allow the car to start. Good luck.
I have a 2005 Nissan murano engine has ticking and after warmed up and driving car begins to shake when accelerate, should add dark smoke at start up
That could be several things. Basics: check oil, change oil (if it’s overdue), try using a fuel injector cleaner additive in the gas tank.
Also, spark plugs should have been done at 100k miles. Fouled spark plugs can also do some of this.
Hi Joe, do you think the Vias Solenoid would cause my Nissan Murano to stall while im driving it down a road? My car just cuts off and i coast to a stop.
Probably not just the VIAS solenoid. This system only changes the internal air path of the intake plenum (where air comes in). If the solenoid doesn’t operate the engine still gets plenty of air, just through a slightly different pathway so to speak.
You should be getting engine codes if your car is doing this. You should have the codes pulled and see what information the car is telling you about why it might be shutting down. Most car parts stores will pull the codes for free to get you started.
Good luck to you.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you so much. Going to try the Crankshaft sensor next. Im not getting any codes now after replacing the Vias Solenoid but i havent test drove it yet. However, i did find out if the crankshaft sensor is bad, it doesnt always set off the check Engine light.
Thanks for your kind response!
@@Iheartcatz Okay. If you’re not getting codes with this symptom, I’d recommend the camshaft sensors first. They are easier to access and are known to fail. They also don’t set an engine code all the time. I have a video for that project as well.
ua-cam.com/video/A6nPeRl_510/v-deo.html
@@JoesCarSmartsNY ok i ordered those too. I just need a smaller ratchet. Couldnt get 10mm screw off. Its in a tight space.
Im on it. Thanks so much Joe!
So a neighbor helped me change both sensors. I was able to start and drive the car beforehand, it just died while driving. Now, i cant start it. It revs up but no start. I feel defeated. I paid him $100 for his work.
You should have vacuum at the solenoid from the reservoir with the solenoid OFF, right?
Carlos If you’ve built up pressure from the engine running, then you should have vacuum at the reservoir with solenoid off. When the solenoid activates (opens) it sends the vacuum to the actuator on the side of the intake. If you’re not building vacuum at the reservoir you may need to check the feed line to the reservoir or see if the reservoir holds a vacuum by itself.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY Thank you for replying. So, just to confirm: if the hoses from the intake manifold to the reservoir is in good condition, and the one coming out of the reservoir to the solenoid is in good condition as well and the reservoir builds vacuum, you should have vacuum at the VIAS solenoid from the hose coming out of the reservoir?
Carlos Yes. It’s sounds like you’re not getting vacuum on the output of the reservoir?
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I am going to deal with the code p1800 on a Nissan Murano soon. I am just making sure that I know how to diagnose it quickly before I start working on the truck.
I watch videos where people just go after the VIAS solenoid without checking for vacuum at the solenoid. The way I will do it is let the truck warm up and check for vacuum at the solenoid. If I find vacuum, I will use my scanner to command the solenoid on and look for vacuum out of the solenoid. No vacuum out of the solenoid, ( with good power and ground at the solenoid)I will replace the solenoid.
Can you replace the VIAS solenoid without disconnecting the battery?
That should be fine
Curiosity what is the actual name for the vacuum rosevoir?
That is a good question. I’m not really sure.
Here they call it an “Emissions Vacuum Tank”. Don’t know if that’s the official name or not.
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183243031312
The large tank, they just call it the "Vacuum tank" from the OEM manual.
I replaced the vias control solenoid on my 2004 maxima but it was a used part from like a junkyard instead of brand new, I don’t get any engine light or codes anymore but when I rev it, the actuator doesn’t flip, so any suggestions? should I try to get a new actuator or vacuum canister or maybe try a brand new solenoid?
I don’t think the solenoid opens just because you rev the engine. If your code is gone I’d say you’re good to go.
Can the vacuum reservoir go bad ?
It’s possible. You can find out by drawing a vacuum on it and seeing if it holds vacuum or leaks down.
Will this also cause you to use more fuel
Not too sure, but it’s possible. If this solenoid is faulty you should have an engine code.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY I have engine code p1800
@@ricardoharris651 Replacing this solenoid solved my P1800.
@@JoesCarSmartsNY yea I just checked my engine bay out and whoever had this car before I guess took it off
@@ricardoharris651 Like, it’s missing? Wow. That’s special. Is there a block off plate or something on the end of the intake? That’s not common, but sometimes people defeat the whole system and block off that end of the intake with a special plate.
Delete it. Remove it. Safe as no more problems
Wasn’t it easier just buy the piece smh
You mean just replace the part without testing it?
Wrong!!!! the price for that valve is 150 bucks. I just bought it in autozone
Okaaay…two things:
1 - This video is four years old and prices can change
2 - If you had clicked the “buy your part here” link in my video you could have bought it for $13 on Amazon. Or…rockauto.com sells for as low as $100.
I like AutoZone, but they are good for convenience, not for the lowest price.