Thanks for the great video. My scope arrived today and I'm gonna take it out in the morning and zero the scope and set the zero stop. Thanks for your help.
Love everything about it. The turrets are great with the nice audible clicks. Also they are zero reset and have the zero stop feature. I have many scopes, and this one is my favorite.@@DerekEvan
@@D148521 that’s cool. I’m looking forward to getting mine. New here to setting up a scope… So do you zero in the scope making up/down left/right adjustments FIRST? Then set this zero stop? I’m looking for EP5 scope setup 101 lol
Once you use your scope and decide what you want your zero point to be (25, 50,100 etc yards). And that is up to you. What is best for you and what type of shooting you do, then just follow what the fellow in this video does. Real easy, and can be changed later if you want.@@DerekEvan
Thanks for the quick video. I sighted in an EPL-4, but haven’t reset the turrets to zero, or set the zero stop, and thanks to your video, I don’t have to study the owners manual, on how to do it. 😊
What happened to the "2 clicks down" part of the setup? Arken says to turn the turret 2 clicks down and then tighten the zero stop. You don't do that? Looks like it worked fine for you... just have no idea why they say to do that.
Because if the zero on the cap is off a hair or not perfectly centered, and you don't go up 1 or 2 clicks, the screw can hit the shelf that's raised up and it won't work. The 2 clicks up just guarantees it'll go down enough without hitting the metal shelf it stops on.
Excuse my greenness here but you want it to stop and not go the other way because you have it set to say 100 yards and you only need to adjust for bullet drop, not because you’re aiming too low and hitting high?
The purpose of the Zero stop is to have a known return point. Once you begin twisting the turret all around different directions and in full rotations you need to be able to get it back to the spot you zero the rifle ..in your case the 100y setting. Without the stop you could actually be off a full rotation and not know it. This way you just crank it all way til stops.
Nice video and simple, but the two clocks not explained in Arken manual, I tried it and found that idea of leaving two clicks down might me practical . What do you think ?
The extra clicks are not in manual. This is a preference thing some shooters may do for a range of shots may be closer than zeroing distance. Generally having it stop at zero is best.
Hi Bob. Do you know the full range of elevation clicks on the EPL4 6x24? On a Huben PCP I want to reach out to 150-200 yards. My zero i want at 35 yards. So where would you recommend, in clicks, should my 35 zero be? For optimal scope performance
The stainless steel screw on top was unscrewed when you turn the camera back on. Do you have to loosen that screw before you set the other three that screw down on to the turret?
What size rings did you get. I ordered mediums. Wasn’t sure if lows would be to low but I like my scopes as close to barrel as possible. Any thought or make a vid showing your scopes and stating what ring heights they are like a arsenal tour?
Then I’m assuming you can only go one way which is dialing down. Since you have a zero you can either hold at MOA or dial left or down to desired dope or range ?
Yeah that’s what I mean prob just said it wrong. My score was low from the factory so I had to dial UP CLOCKWISE to zero. Now with zero stop on you’re set at zero so the only way you can dial is counter clockwise so if you need to dial 3 MOA FOR say 300 yards you dial and boom you’re at 3 center hold. Then back to a 100 yard zero You can turn it blindly back to zero.
Can you do a video on how to reset the turrets back to factory settings? After you have already zeroed a caliber if I decide to change it to another set up. How do I get full MILs in torrent back ?
Well I could do my best. But generally what you would do is back the top zero stop screw out. Spin the turret l way down then all way up. Count the revolutions and perhaps then set it at the mid point.
Do you think that lock tite is necessary for those screws? I got extra large mits and don't like to handle small screws unless I got a thousand on standby. Great video
Loctite might be a bit much. Would need heat to loosen them if you ever want to adjust. I would use something like a thick wax or a dab of even Rtv silicone etc. Though mine not come lose i may put a drip of reloading primer seal on them...its kind of like a clear fingernail polish (would also prob work).
I do all those steps but Mine still stops before the zero every time about 2 clicks before zero. I did the instructions in booklet about clicking 2 up before tightening the azs screw but it still stops before the 0 got me puzzled i understand how simple it is but mine is just not coming together.. also my top screw its high even when all the way down. About 1/8th of an inch high i see everyone else's sits into the threaded hole.
Your cap might possibly be too low. I would loosen the 3 set screws, remove the cap, loosen the brass set screw and thread your zero stop in just below the surface, drop the cap on and tighten your 3 set screws. Then back the zero stop screw out just a hair and tighten the brass set screw. That should take care of it.
I also have an Athlon scope. I pull off the turret, clamped in onto my drill press , drilled top and sides then tapped in some threads. Used brass screws for both set screws, it worked. I preemptively ordered an elevation turret from Athlon, just in case of a failure (mistake) moral of the story...every manufacturer should do this, just make sure you place screw hole to where it will hit turret plate.
Great video guy thanks for sharing I got a dumb question I've never owned a milrad scope I'm setting up a new Arken for a friend my question is the bottom numbers are mils what are the top numbers
It's only locking the cap from going lower than zero. The ability to return to zero is important. Without a stop you could be a full rotation low and not know it.
Can you run the scope WITHOUT the top zero-stop screw engaged (backed out and locked)? There's a little micrometer scale on the housing to show how many turns (or something).
Thanks, RGD. I haven't seen that micrometer scale referenced anywhere. I backed off the top screw, ran the elevation DOWN to "0" on the micrometer then adjusted the turret to "0". So, now I've got "0" on "0" and I think that's a good starting point for heading out to the range for the first time. I'm assuming I've got a centered reticle(or close to it) and Burris Signature rings that can roughly add/subtract elev/windage. Thanks again, your video helped me gain a little understanding of the AZS. @@RugerGundog
I have a problem with my sh4 42-16 power. The first time I tried to use it after it was mounted and leveled I was shooting way left and I tried to bring my when did bar in the scope back to the right but what happened is I can only get it within an inch of being where needs to be before the turret bottoms out do you have any ideas
Question. It stops at zero. I get that, but what if I was making a far shot and needed to pass zero? Does is go through zero or does it stop on that zero too?
As you dial "up" the elevation turret also goes up, which will allow you to dial past the zero stop. When you dial back down, the stop will make contact again where you have your turret zeroed, if that makes sense.
The zero stop is opposite of what you are thinking. It's limits the turret downward spin to stop at your zeroing distance. The turret will spin upward for farther shots. Now if you mean you zero at 200 and want to shoot 50..then you would need to use retical.
Loosen the 2 screws and adjust it the exact, I had to play with mine, it acted funny when I over tightened the screws my snug is way to tight apparently lol
When you "zero" a rifle that is the spot on that turret that you have a known impact for a known distance. Most people its 100 yards. The zero stop is a return to that spot stopper. When you begin to dial in twists of that turret up and down and in full rotations a user and lose track of the starting point (zero) for the next shot.
Im in canada and imposible to get hold of anyone in Arken optic warranty So far its living a bad taste for me . Being sold in canada but good luck with warranty.
New to Arken and quality scopes here. With my EP5 sitting on medium rings and a 20 moa base, I run out of elevation having to hold under 18" to hit the target bullseye at 100 yards. I am unfamiliar with zero stop and have not messed with it on the scope yet. Am I able to zero this at 100 yards by losening the zero stop or do I need a 0 moa rail on my tool?
I have the EP 5 on a 20moa rail. I was able to get it zero'd in at 100 yards. I was doing the zero stop today and then tried to do mechanical zero to count how many clicks each way to get back to zero in case something happens and it gets moved but the set screw on top backed out as I was turning the turret so now it's back to the range again and start over. Lol. Something is wrong with your set up I'd guess because it can be done..I had it dead on the cross hairs point of aim was point of impact. Did a 6 shot 2 inch group. Maybe Arkin can assist if you call them.
you who are the most famous UA-camrs and maybe the arken company will listen to it, tell them to make that same grid, but not like a pine tree 🌲, it's better to be a cross -:- that's cleaner and better image you will give us
They have offered of SH retical on ep4 and the sh4 gen1, as i own it. The retical you speak of with hold overs or tree shape is more popular for hold over vs turret use.
Thank you for the short and simple video and not complicating something that seemed complicated.
You did well.
You are welcome.
More scope manufacturers need to adopt the ease of this zero stop. Thanks for the clear explanation 👍.
Whats wrong with the baggie containing eleventy different washer thicknesses that you need to stack up just right in a vortex? 😂
I agree
Thanks for the great video. My scope arrived today and I'm gonna take it out in the morning and zero the scope and set the zero stop. Thanks for your help.
I just ordered my EP5 yesterday. How did you make out? Liking the scope?
Love everything about it. The turrets are great with the nice audible clicks. Also they are zero reset and have the zero stop feature. I have many scopes, and this one is my favorite.@@DerekEvan
@@D148521 that’s cool. I’m looking forward to getting mine. New here to setting up a scope… So do you zero in the scope making up/down left/right adjustments FIRST? Then set this zero stop? I’m looking for EP5 scope setup 101 lol
Once you use your scope and decide what you want your zero point to be (25, 50,100 etc yards). And that is up to you. What is best for you and what type of shooting you do, then just follow what the fellow in this video does. Real easy, and can be changed later if you want.@@DerekEvan
@@D148521 ok cool. I will want it to be at 100 yards for sure. Thanks for the responses. Appreciate it.
Thanks for the quick video. I sighted in an EPL-4, but haven’t reset the turrets to zero, or set the zero stop, and thanks to your video, I don’t have to study the owners manual, on how to do it. 😊
great to hear
Thanks Rugergundog, much appreciated.
No problem
Thanks a bunch man, very clear and quick!
Your welcome
What happened to the "2 clicks down" part of the setup? Arken says to turn the turret 2 clicks down and then tighten the zero stop. You don't do that? Looks like it worked fine for you... just have no idea why they say to do that.
I would assume it's so if you see something to shoot at just short of your zero you have at least a little play going downward. But who knows.
Because if the zero on the cap is off a hair or not perfectly centered, and you don't go up 1 or 2 clicks, the screw can hit the shelf that's raised up and it won't work. The 2 clicks up just guarantees it'll go down enough without hitting the metal shelf it stops on.
@@PkwyDrive13nice explanation and I think it is correct
Never heard that
I learned back off 2 clicks for the same reason as PkwyDrive13. From a real gunsmith.
Thanks for this totally informative vid! made it look so easy, when reading it sounded so complicated! 👌🏻🙏🏻
You are welcome
Simply fkng outstanding! Thank You!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Your welcome
Just set mine up today. Used a little low strength loctite on the three screws. Have read that some people have had problems with them coming lose.
Nice. Good call. Thanks for the reply
Mine keeps coming loose on my 308 SFAR. I didn't know locktite was an option. Thank you
Looks so easy that even I could do it. Cool beans.
Heck yea
Thanks for this.
No worries!
Good show! Thanks for sharing!
Your welcome
Excellent Thank you
You are welcome!
great video!
Thanks!
Thank you
Thanks Sir.
No problem
THANKS
Excuse my greenness here but you want it to stop and not go the other way because you have it set to say 100 yards and you only need to adjust for bullet drop, not because you’re aiming too low and hitting high?
The purpose of the Zero stop is to have a known return point. Once you begin twisting the turret all around different directions and in full rotations you need to be able to get it back to the spot you zero the rifle ..in your case the 100y setting. Without the stop you could actually be off a full rotation and not know it. This way you just crank it all way til stops.
Yeah man ! Thanks
Your welcome
Nice video and simple, but the two clocks not explained in Arken manual, I tried it and found that idea of leaving two clicks down might me practical . What do you think ?
The extra clicks are not in manual. This is a preference thing some shooters may do for a range of shots may be closer than zeroing distance. Generally having it stop at zero is best.
The fact that people need a video how to is embarrassing...😂 It's in the instructions in the box.
....can't say I don't disagree.
Awesome. Thanks 👍👍
No proble
Hi Bob. Do you know the full range of elevation clicks on the EPL4 6x24? On a Huben PCP I want to reach out to 150-200 yards. My zero i want at 35 yards. So where would you recommend, in clicks, should my 35 zero be? For optimal scope performance
20mrad or 68moa of elevation adjustment with the Turret.
The stainless steel screw on top was unscrewed when you turn the camera back on. Do you have to loosen that screw before you set the other three that screw down on to the turret?
The screw on the top is what you spin down to bottom it out once you aling the zero. Then snug in the brass screw to lock that top one in place.
@@RugerGundog Thanks
What size rings did you get. I ordered mediums. Wasn’t sure if lows would be to low but I like my scopes as close to barrel as possible. Any thought or make a vid showing your scopes and stating what ring heights they are like a arsenal tour?
Medium
perfect
thank you
Then I’m assuming you can only go one way which is dialing down. Since you have a zero you can either hold at MOA or dial left or down to desired dope or range ?
Can only spin counter clockwise....or up numerically to raise shot beyond zero.
Yeah that’s what I mean prob just said it wrong. My score was low from the factory so I had to dial UP CLOCKWISE to zero. Now with zero stop on you’re set at zero so the only way you can dial is counter clockwise so if you need to dial 3 MOA FOR say 300 yards you dial and boom you’re at 3 center hold. Then back to a 100 yard zero You can turn it blindly back to zero.
Can you do a video on how to reset the turrets back to factory settings? After you have already zeroed a caliber if I decide to change it to another set up. How do I get full MILs in torrent back ?
Well I could do my best. But generally what you would do is back the top zero stop screw out. Spin the turret l way down then all way up. Count the revolutions and perhaps then set it at the mid point.
I had to use blue loctite on the turrets. too many times they became loose on SCAR 17S.
Scar will rattle ya bones too lol
Do you think that lock tite is necessary for those screws? I got extra large mits and don't like to handle small screws unless I got a thousand on standby.
Great video
Loctite might be a bit much. Would need heat to loosen them if you ever want to adjust. I would use something like a thick wax or a dab of even Rtv silicone etc. Though mine not come lose i may put a drip of reloading primer seal on them...its kind of like a clear fingernail polish (would also prob work).
I do all those steps but Mine still stops before the zero every time about 2 clicks before zero. I did the instructions in booklet about clicking 2 up before tightening the azs screw but it still stops before the 0 got me puzzled i understand how simple it is but mine is just not coming together.. also my top screw its high even when all the way down. About 1/8th of an inch high i see everyone else's sits into the threaded hole.
Your cap might possibly be too low. I would loosen the 3 set screws, remove the cap, loosen the brass set screw and thread your zero stop in just below the surface, drop the cap on and tighten your 3 set screws. Then back the zero stop screw out just a hair and tighten the brass set screw. That should take care of it.
I agree.
I also have an Athlon scope.
I pull off the turret, clamped in onto my drill press , drilled top and sides then tapped in some threads. Used brass screws for both set screws, it worked. I preemptively ordered an elevation turret from Athlon, just in case of a failure (mistake) moral of the story...every manufacturer should do this, just make sure you place screw hole to where it will hit turret plate.
Yea that will work.
Great video guy thanks for sharing I got a dumb question I've never owned a milrad scope I'm setting up a new Arken for a friend my question is the bottom numbers are mils what are the top numbers
The top are same numbers as your pass one full rotation. Think of hands on a clock going... 11, 12, 13, 14....vs 1-12.
I'm hitting 4' high at 100 yds, out of adjustment. Do I change zero stop procedure to gain more clockwise elevation? Thanks
Back the zero stop out until done zeroing
Then you would recommend setting the zero stop for 25 yards then you would be able to turn he reticles up ?
I zero some .22lr at 50y. Everything else at 100 or 200 for ease of math when making adjustments.
This may be a dumb question but with the zero stop set, why would you want to lock out the ability to turn the turret up?
It's only locking the cap from going lower than zero. The ability to return to zero is important. Without a stop you could be a full rotation low and not know it.
Can you run the scope WITHOUT the top zero-stop screw engaged (backed out and locked)? There's a little micrometer scale on the housing to show how many turns (or something).
Yes but that just gets you within a spin or so. Could be off.....but if astoot yes.
Thanks, RGD. I haven't seen that micrometer scale referenced anywhere. I backed off the top screw, ran the elevation DOWN to "0" on the micrometer then adjusted the turret to "0". So, now I've got "0" on "0" and I think that's a good starting point for heading out to the range for the first time. I'm assuming I've got a centered reticle(or close to it) and Burris Signature rings that can roughly add/subtract elev/windage. Thanks again, your video helped me gain a little understanding of the AZS. @@RugerGundog
I have a problem with my sh4 42-16 power. The first time I tried to use it after it was mounted and leveled I was shooting way left and I tried to bring my when did bar in the scope back to the right but what happened is I can only get it within an inch of being where needs to be before the turret bottoms out do you have any ideas
I would ensure your rings are on the rail correct first and not pushed to one side or other. Also the rail itself and mounting not crooked.
Question. It stops at zero. I get that, but what if I was making a far shot and needed to pass zero? Does is go through zero or does it stop on that zero too?
As you dial "up" the elevation turret also goes up, which will allow you to dial past the zero stop. When you dial back down, the stop will make contact again where you have your turret zeroed, if that makes sense.
The zero stop is opposite of what you are thinking. It's limits the turret downward spin to stop at your zeroing distance. The turret will spin upward for farther shots. Now if you mean you zero at 200 and want to shoot 50..then you would need to use retical.
Is there a way to set it so I have a couple of clicks of down dial? So if I'm 0 at 300 and need to dial down 1 moa I can.
Yes just ease your zero stop set screw up a Itty bit.
When I'm zerod for 100 the elevation dial is always -.25 on the turret for zero. It drives me nuts. How do I fix that
Loosen the 2 screws and adjust it the exact, I had to play with mine, it acted funny when I over tightened the screws my snug is way to tight apparently lol
You loosen it and spin it a smidgen
What is the purpose of the zero stop? I have sh4 gen3 I bought a longtime ago and just started to use it.
So once you zero it and begin twisting Elevation for different shots and forget...did I go a way around..1, 2 times?......spin all way to your stop
I had no idea the zero stop inside my scope was so mechanically simple.
It sure is!
I was wondering about the 2 clicks as well lol
:)
whats the point of zero stop? why would you only want to go down and not up?
When you "zero" a rifle that is the spot on that turret that you have a known impact for a known distance. Most people its 100 yards. The zero stop is a return to that spot stopper. When you begin to dial in twists of that turret up and down and in full rotations a user and lose track of the starting point (zero) for the next shot.
Is the new arken epl4 a good hunting scope what's your opinion
Sure is, my favorite Arken.
Im in canada and imposible to get hold of anyone in Arken optic warranty
So far its living a bad taste for me .
Being sold in canada but good luck with warranty.
What do you mean. Email to Canada should be no issue.
New to Arken and quality scopes here. With my EP5 sitting on medium rings and a 20 moa base, I run out of elevation having to hold under 18" to hit the target bullseye at 100 yards. I am unfamiliar with zero stop and have not messed with it on the scope yet. Am I able to zero this at 100 yards by losening the zero stop or do I need a 0 moa rail on my tool?
Are you sure you installed the scope correctly? These scopes should have LOTS of elevation adjustment, to where you shouldn't run out.
I have the EP 5 on a 20moa rail. I was able to get it zero'd in at 100 yards. I was doing the zero stop today and then tried to do mechanical zero to count how many clicks each way to get back to zero in case something happens and it gets moved but the set screw on top backed out as I was turning the turret so now it's back to the range again and start over. Lol. Something is wrong with your set up I'd guess because it can be done..I had it dead on the cross hairs point of aim was point of impact. Did a 6 shot 2 inch group. Maybe Arkin can assist if you call them.
Have you backed it out?
If you set the zero stop at 100 yards ,then you cant shoot at targets at 50 yards? Is this true?
Well...you couldnt dial down, but you could use your retical just fine.
Click up about 1/2 an MOA to be perfect your going to be an inch or less low at 50 yards
I'm not trying to be a wise guy I'm just not scope worthy, the last time I had a scope was 1964, a 3x9 n a German Mauser K 98 no zero stop .
The new stuff these days really is great.
you who are the most famous UA-camrs and maybe the arken company will listen to it, tell them to make that same grid, but not like a pine tree 🌲, it's better to be a cross -:- that's cleaner and better image you will give us
They offer another retical called SH that is not the tree.
@@RugerGundog I have SH 4 and all arken scopes are tree 🌲
They have offered of SH retical on ep4 and the sh4 gen1, as i own it. The retical you speak of with hold overs or tree shape is more popular for hold over vs turret use.