Thank you Mike I bought a sorby parting tool and was afraid to use it bc gota a catch right away and didn't know which way to use the tool compared to what the directions was showing.i will watch this video again very informative.
I had to watch this video a second time didn't want to miss anything.my opinion but the parting tools are a great asset.they also build confidence by not being afraid to use them there kinda safe.
I learned the point of sharpening a parting tool or a scraper to put a burr on to make it cut. And the burrs on the side help give the tool space in the cut to help it from binding.
I just discovered, thanks to you, I've been using my Sorby parting tool wrong. Question Sorby's instructions? Mike, you're a rebel! I like your calipers tip;I'll try that next time.
The way Mike showed it is how I started using the Sorby tool, it just seems like the natural way to use it. My Sorby didn't come with any instructions, so I guess that was a good thing.
Glad to have your confirmation about using some of these tools upside down, Mike. I discovered this advantage 2 years ago, and have been kicking myself over previously lost time when parting off harder woods, which is a step I hate, often finishing with a fine toothed saw Also, I've had a diamond shaped tool from the start, but rarely use it; so you have prompted me to experiment further: thanks. Bernard.
Thanks for this excellent video, Mike! I've been watching your stuff for a while, and it's always informative, but this one in particular is a revelation. There's so much good info packed in here! 🤯 I have recently turned handles for, and made my first three bowl gouge chisels with some purchased blades, and did some reshaping on one of those into an Ellsworth/swept-back grind, which has now got me starting to think about fashioning my own tool blades. This video has gotten me excited to pick up some HSS tool steel blanks and work on fashioning some new custom tools, now that I know that I can make handles for them. Thanks for the inspiration! Please keep up the awesome work! 👍
I find your videos very helpful withe problems I was getting. The problem i have that I haven't seen help on is a layout of tools. What i mean is I have three different sizes of chisels, four jaw chuck, a number of centers and a few other pieces that I use when turning, but not a real good design of keeping them tidy and in place. Most of me chisels are laying on top of my table saw.I do have a spot for my lathe that could have a dedicated back wall. But i can't seem to come up with a plan to keep things organized.
I was struggling with the narrow parting tool. Turning it "upside down" and putting that little bevel on it really helped. I am very new to this and it felt very unsafe and I was burning the cuts until I watched this. Thank you.
I am new to turning And I just got a set of Benjamin’s best wood turning chisels and the parting tool I got was not the diamond shape I was used to seeing and I was concerned so I went to look for videos on parting tools and found this one and it was hugely informative. Thank you so much Mike. I subscribed and enjoy your content very much!
Thank you Mike for this informative video!! As a beginner, I cling to every word from the tool manufacturers and the Sorby fluted parting tool instructions were in direct conflict with how I've seen this tool used. It never made sense to me to have the fluted edge against the tool rest as the manufacturer's instructions state. You confirmed this for me. Thanks again!!
Thanks, Greg. I am a big believer in reading, understanding and following the manufacturers guidance. Until you have enough experience to know why you should not! Note this video ua-cam.com/video/YqtSqsc2D7M/v-deo.html
Another user of the Sorpy parting tool upside down. It seems like the only way to use it. I have most if not all of the parting tool types you show. But the one I use most is the 1/16" carbide tip WoodPeckers tool. It seems to cut much quicker and more cleanly than any of the other tools I have. I wasn't aware of your back surgery. I hope it went well. I wish you continued good health. Thank you for sharing.
Interesting. I learned to use the thin parting tool from one of your earlier videos and never realized it was upside down. I have since made a few of my own (thanks to your videos) and have learned that if you listen, your tools "talk" to you via way of tactile feedback. It more of a discussion that is felt that you can't read about or see on a video but the tools know what they like and you can feel how they best perform.
Thanks for a nice update of the various parting tools available. One additional parting tool to consider is the D-Way parting tool that the thickness of the blade tapers from .080" to .060" to help cut down on binding. With the Sorby tool having the fluted edge it would seem like after a several sharpenings it would be used up as the blade continues to get shorter and then you would be back to a "standard" blade so to speak. Thanks for all you do for the hobby--Myles
I actually had a picture of the Dway parting tool but decided it was too expensive and too specialized to cover. You can sharpen the fluted tool easily by just honing that flat front edge. Do not put it on the grinder!
Mike please think about moving camera closer. When you were describing the parting tool and parting off the piece. You mentioned cutting in then cutting a second it and going back and forth so as not to bind. It would have been cleared for me if I could see the side of the spindle and the cut rather than 3ft away and from the side. Liked the video. Thanks.
Another very good instructional video, Mike. Thank you for sharing so much with our community. A couple of comments: First, for an alternative to severing the fibers at the beginning of the cut by 'cutting straight in', you can make a v-cut with the corner of the parting tool on the 'finish side' of the part. The v-cut will severe the fibers cleanly. You can then make a peeling cut. It leaves a very crisp edge. I like this approach because the v-cut clearly marks where parting cut is to stop. Second, Alan Lacer teaches using a hacksaw for parting items from the lathe. You make a v-cut where you want to part and then, with the lathe running in reverse (or standing on the backside of the lathe) rest the hacksaw blade in the v-cut. Let the lathe and the weight of the saw do the work, and you'll quickly part-off the item. This trick is great for boxes, because the thin kerf makes grain matching much easier. Two words of caution: Only do this with a sturdy (a/k/a, not a cheap) hacksaw. Second, keep the speed down. It's not a race and, even with an rpm of 500 - 750 rpm, it's a lot faster than a parting tool.
Nice review Mike. Even us old timers can benefit from watching. My "go to" parting tool is a 1/8 (approximately) diamond tool from Sears. It is probably 35-40 years old but still does the job. I started turning with it and although I have others, I still like it the best.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Yup. It was my first set and I still have and use it. Parting tool is the one I use the most. I have plenty of others, mostly Sorby and carbide, but I guess you always remember your first time!
Spot on - you did a very good job explaining all the aspects of the "humble " Parting tool. You covered all aspects of this tool and answered all my wonders about it. I can't say enough about how you have helped me get started. I am so grateful that you took your passion and share the fundamentals with others. For a newbie- of all the parting tools you demonstrated which do you recommend? PS I loved your tip on the caliper when you pulled it off the spindle instead of pushing it on.
Glad it was helpful! Ivery much appreciate your detailed feedback. Most folks do fine starting out with whatever they get in a set. I do a lot of spindle work so probably use my shopmade 8mm beading and parting tool the most followed by my shopmade 1/8" PT. My Penn State 1/16" thin parting tool does not get as much use now as it did before I made my 1/8" tool but it still gets a fair amount of use. Safe turning my friend.
I was sharpening a gouge on my grinder using the Wolverine jig and the tool tip caught on the wheel resulting in my finger being slammed against the bottom of the wheel guard. The results were a damaged white grinder wheel and a three hour visit to the emergency room the get 6 stitches. The only thing that saved me from tendon damage was that it was a slow speed grinder. I wish I could attach a picture to show you my finger. I printed off a copy of the photo and have it hanging over my grinder station.
I have always used the sorby type parting tool upside down I also thought I had more control if i parted off with it and the centerline was closer to the centerline of the tool rest.
Excellent A question about the thin (PSI) parting tool - I find that it builds up so char/creosote on the flat edges of the tool over time. I think that this is a result of friction and heat that draws sugars and other chemicals out of the wood. How do you clean that off? Solvent - sandpaper - diamond home? I understand that you don't want to actually hone the flat faces - they need to remain parallel, and too much honing will eventually cause them to be out of parallel.
Good question. Always make the opening wider than the tool and keep the speed down. Maybe do not press too hard and let the wood come to the tool. Concentrate on peeling rather than scraping. But it happens to me too!
This is a great video! What grit should we use for a slip stone to knock the burr of the edge of a parting tool or gouge? I'm looking to purchase one but don't know which grit to use. Thanks!
Thanks Mike for all your very useful information. I just watched another of your videos about parting tools and have ordered the HS steel blank to make one similar to yours. One question concerns the bevels on the tools. Most parting tools that I've seen have two bevels and you added a second bevel to your 1/16" short parting tool ( from Penn State ). I have that same tool, also from Penn State and have found it useful without adding the second bevel. I also have a 1/8" mini parting tool from Henry Taylor that only has one bevel. I've used it with good results on small projects within its size range. Is there a strong reason that I don't know about to have two bevels or will one work just as well? Just asking so that when I make my new tool I'll have an idea of which way to go.
I like the extra bevel as I think it makes sharpening faster. It also seems to be easier to use without adjusting the toolrest as it puts the cutting edge at the same height used for the spindle gouge. But it will work fine without the extra bevel.
Hi Mike, I also use the Sorby parting tool upside down. What is the technique for using a parting tool when turning mixed grain, like the outside of a bowl? Keep well, Rob
Be very cautious when using a parting tool for mixed grain. It can get very grabby. Avoid it if there is a better techique although I use for fine turning a tenon or making a recess.
Hi Mike, thanks for your interesting video. I have a question about your shop-made tools: how much of the 200mm HSS bars you keep exposed, and how much inside the tool handle? Do you have any calculation for that?
Here is some general guidance. Smaller tools like awls maybe an inch. For round-tang tools, the hole’s depth should be one fourth to one third of the tool’s length. (1 1/2” to 2 1/2” )For flat-tang tools, the hole should house the entire tang-almost to the tool’s shoulder. I guess I would make the tang about 1 1/2 to 2". I have a video back in 2015 on making tool handles.
Hey Mike.. yes on the Sorby fluted parting tool. Funny I was just getting ready to call Sorby as I purchased this tool and the instructions had me baffled. Way too far overhanging tool rest just didn't feel safe even! Does your method null the effect of the flute I'm wondering 🤔. Although now it cuts as any gouge with their flutes always up ! Thoughts?
@@weathormantom7206 Have you heard of tradition? I find few large manufacturers quickly correcting mistakes. Record Power still sells 5" faceplate rings in a box marked 4". I pointed this out more than a year ago to their rep at a major turning event.
Thanks for your video, I’m new to turning and this video really helped me understand how to use the tools. Again thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you Mike I bought a sorby parting tool and was afraid to use it bc gota a catch right away and didn't know which way to use the tool compared to what the directions was showing.i will watch this video again very informative.
Glad I could help
I had to watch this video a second time didn't want to miss anything.my opinion but the parting tools are a great asset.they also build confidence by not being afraid to use them there kinda safe.
Watch my lantern video to really appreciate my shop made beading and parting tool.
Newbie here, great info/video! Will subscribe. Thanks for the good advice and investing the effort for our benefit!
Awesome, thank you!
Great simple and clear to understand
Glad you think so!
I learned the point of sharpening a parting tool or a scraper to put a burr on to make it cut. And the burrs on the side help give the tool space in the cut to help it from binding.
Thanks for sharing that, Bob. Not sure I thought about a burr on the sides.
Very informative! I’m a newby . Thanks!
Welcome!
I just discovered, thanks to you, I've been using my Sorby parting tool wrong. Question Sorby's instructions? Mike, you're a rebel! I like your calipers tip;I'll try that next time.
Thanks, Paul
The way Mike showed it is how I started using the Sorby tool, it just seems like the natural way to use it. My Sorby didn't come with any instructions, so I guess that was a good thing.
Thanks, Mike, for creating these learning videos.
My pleasure!
Glad to have your confirmation about using some of these tools upside down, Mike. I discovered this advantage 2 years ago, and have been kicking myself over previously lost time when parting off harder woods, which is a step I hate, often finishing with a fine toothed saw Also, I've had a diamond shaped tool from the start, but rarely use it; so you have prompted me to experiment further: thanks. Bernard.
thanks mr mike for your instruction wonderful videos
You are very welcome
I'm just a beginner and the detail you provide is invaluable. Great videos!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for this excellent video, Mike!
I've been watching your stuff for a while, and it's always informative, but this one in particular is a revelation. There's so much good info packed in here! 🤯
I have recently turned handles for, and made my first three bowl gouge chisels with some purchased blades, and did some reshaping on one of those into an Ellsworth/swept-back grind, which has now got me starting to think about fashioning my own tool blades.
This video has gotten me excited to pick up some HSS tool steel blanks and work on fashioning some new custom tools, now that I know that I can make handles for them.
Thanks for the inspiration! Please keep up the awesome work! 👍
I appreciate the feedback, Patrick. Stay safe my friend.
I find your videos very helpful withe problems I was getting. The problem i have that I haven't seen help on is a layout of tools. What i mean is I have three different sizes of chisels, four jaw chuck, a number of centers and a few other pieces that I use when turning, but not a real good design of keeping them tidy and in place. Most of me chisels are laying on top of my table saw.I do have a spot for my lathe that could have a dedicated back wall. But i can't seem to come up with a plan to keep things organized.
LOts of possibilities. Check out my playlist on tool storage ua-cam.com/play/PLG3S-gdoXeXUJlIwl80X_aK7RBp7QYMHl.html
I was struggling with the narrow parting tool. Turning it "upside down" and putting that little bevel on it really helped. I am very new to this and it felt very unsafe and I was burning the cuts until I watched this. Thank you.
Glad it helped!
Thank you...appreciate the video!
My pleasure!
Great video. Thanks
You bet
Many thanks Mike, that has been very useful for me as a beginner 👍
Glad it was helpful!
I am new to turning And I just got a set of Benjamin’s best wood turning chisels and the parting tool I got was not the diamond shape I was used to seeing and I was concerned so I went to look for videos on parting tools and found this one and it was hugely informative. Thank you so much Mike. I subscribed and enjoy your content very much!
Welcome aboard!
Great video by the way. 😀👍👍🇨🇦
Thanks 👍
Mike I am a new turner and your videos have been a great help for me. Many thanks! (jet 12"vs)
Great to hear! Keep it safe.
Great video, Mike. I'm new to turning and your videos have been so helpful and inspiring. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Mlne works great. I made it myself.
Feels good to use a tool you made, doesn't it?
Pretty interesting, Mike!!! Thanks for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks! You too!
great tips as always mike . always enjoy the show . thanks buddy
Thanks 👍
good to see youre staying healthy Mike. Im about to go check out you woodturned angel video cus its time to start making christmas presents!
Thanks, Dylan. I am still recovering from back surgery on Monday. Yes, I need to come up with a new ornament video soon.
Outstanding content..really enjoying your channel...turned my first 3 pieces today...thank you for your instruction
Have fun!
Thank you Mike for this informative video!! As a beginner, I cling to every word from the tool manufacturers and the Sorby fluted parting tool instructions were in direct conflict with how I've seen this tool used. It never made sense to me to have the fluted edge against the tool rest as the manufacturer's instructions state. You confirmed this for me. Thanks again!!
Thanks, Greg. I am a big believer in reading, understanding and following the manufacturers guidance. Until you have enough experience to know why you should not! Note this video ua-cam.com/video/YqtSqsc2D7M/v-deo.html
Another user of the Sorpy parting tool upside down. It seems like the only way to use it. I have most if not all of the parting tool types you show. But the one I use most is the 1/16" carbide tip WoodPeckers tool. It seems to cut much quicker and more cleanly than any of the other tools I have. I wasn't aware of your back surgery. I hope it went well. I wish you continued good health. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks, Glen. Recovery is slower than I expected but I am walking without a cane and am turning.
I have learned something new today. No wander I've been having trouble. Great to know.
Thanks
Great to hear!
The woodworking chef
Interesting. I learned to use the thin parting tool from one of your earlier videos and never realized it was upside down. I have since made a few of my own (thanks to your videos) and have learned that if you listen, your tools "talk" to you via way of tactile feedback. It more of a discussion that is felt that you can't read about or see on a video but the tools know what they like and you can feel how they best perform.
Absolutely. You have to hear and feel.
Thanks for a nice update of the various parting tools available. One additional parting tool to consider is the D-Way parting tool that the thickness of the blade tapers from .080" to .060" to help cut down on binding. With the Sorby tool having the fluted edge it would seem like after a several sharpenings it would be used up as the blade continues to get shorter and then you would be back to a "standard" blade so to speak. Thanks for all you do for the hobby--Myles
I actually had a picture of the Dway parting tool but decided it was too expensive and too specialized to cover. You can sharpen the fluted tool easily by just honing that flat front edge. Do not put it on the grinder!
Mike please think about moving camera closer. When you were describing the parting tool and parting off the piece. You mentioned cutting in then cutting a second it and going back and forth so as not to bind. It would have been cleared for me if I could see the side of the spindle and the cut rather than 3ft away and from the side. Liked the video. Thanks.
Thanks for the specific feedback. I will try to be more aware.
Another very good instructional video, Mike. Thank you for sharing so much with our community.
A couple of comments: First, for an alternative to severing the fibers at the beginning of the cut by 'cutting straight in', you can make a v-cut with the corner of the parting tool on the 'finish side' of the part. The v-cut will severe the fibers cleanly. You can then make a peeling cut. It leaves a very crisp edge. I like this approach because the v-cut clearly marks where parting cut is to stop.
Second, Alan Lacer teaches using a hacksaw for parting items from the lathe. You make a v-cut where you want to part and then, with the lathe running in reverse (or standing on the backside of the lathe) rest the hacksaw blade in the v-cut. Let the lathe and the weight of the saw do the work, and you'll quickly part-off the item. This trick is great for boxes, because the thin kerf makes grain matching much easier. Two words of caution: Only do this with a sturdy (a/k/a, not a cheap) hacksaw. Second, keep the speed down. It's not a race and, even with an rpm of 500 - 750 rpm, it's a lot faster than a parting tool.
Good tips, thanks, David.
Nice review Mike. Even us old timers can benefit from watching. My "go to" parting tool is a 1/8 (approximately) diamond tool from Sears. It is probably 35-40 years old but still does the job. I started turning with it and although I have others, I still like it the best.
That is the dark brown handled tool? Lot of those old Craftsman HSS turning tools around.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Yup. It was my first set and I still have and use it. Parting tool is the one I use the most. I have plenty of others, mostly Sorby and carbide, but I guess you always remember your first time!
Spot on - you did a very good job explaining all the aspects of the "humble " Parting tool. You covered all aspects of this tool and answered all my wonders about it.
I can't say enough about how you have helped me get started. I am so grateful that you took your passion and share the fundamentals with others.
For a newbie- of all the parting tools you demonstrated which do you recommend?
PS I loved your tip on the caliper when you pulled it off the spindle instead of pushing it on.
Glad it was helpful! Ivery much appreciate your detailed feedback. Most folks do fine starting out with whatever they get in a set. I do a lot of spindle work so probably use my shopmade 8mm beading and parting tool the most followed by my shopmade 1/8" PT. My Penn State 1/16" thin parting tool does not get as much use now as it did before I made my 1/8" tool but it still gets a fair amount of use. Safe turning my friend.
Very interesting. Well presented I'm especaly interested in the !/16 parting tools for bowl from a board Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I had a really bad day -- someone died. So thanks for a great video to help cheer me up.
So sorry. Turning can take our mind off of life's concerns.
I was sharpening a gouge on my grinder using the Wolverine jig and the tool tip caught on the wheel resulting in my finger being slammed against the bottom of the wheel guard. The results were a damaged white grinder wheel and a three hour visit to the emergency room the get 6 stitches. The only thing that saved me from tendon damage was that it was a slow speed grinder. I wish I could attach a picture to show you my finger. I printed off a copy of the photo and have it hanging over my grinder station.
Ouch! I hope you have full feeling back. We always have to be on our guard, don't we?
I'm amazed how fast you cut threw the wood. Why can't I do that?
Practice?
I have always used the sorby type parting tool upside down I also thought I had more control if i parted off with it and the centerline was closer to the centerline of the tool rest.
Greatminds think alike!
Thanks...
You're welcome!
Excellent
A question about the thin (PSI) parting tool - I find that it builds up so char/creosote on the flat edges of the tool over time. I think that this is a result of friction and heat that draws sugars and other chemicals out of the wood. How do you clean that off? Solvent - sandpaper - diamond home? I understand that you don't want to actually hone the flat faces - they need to remain parallel, and too much honing will eventually cause them to be out of parallel.
Good question. Always make the opening wider than the tool and keep the speed down. Maybe do not press too hard and let the wood come to the tool. Concentrate on peeling rather than scraping. But it happens to me too!
thank you
You're welcome
This is a great video! What grit should we use for a slip stone to knock the burr of the edge of a parting tool or gouge? I'm looking to purchase one but don't know which grit to use. Thanks!
I find a 600 grit diamond on CBN hone works well. Not a stone! Here is a great source woodturnerswonders.com/collections/HONES
Thanks Mike for all your very useful information. I just watched another of your videos about parting tools and have ordered the HS steel blank to make one similar to yours.
One question concerns the bevels on the tools.
Most parting tools that I've seen have two bevels and you added a second bevel to your 1/16" short parting tool ( from Penn State ). I have that same tool, also from Penn State and have found it useful without adding the second bevel. I also have a 1/8" mini parting tool from Henry Taylor that only has one bevel. I've used it with good results on small projects within its size range.
Is there a strong reason that I don't know about to have two bevels or will one work just as well? Just asking so that when I make my new tool I'll have an idea of which way to go.
I like the extra bevel as I think it makes sharpening faster. It also seems to be easier to use without adjusting the toolrest as it puts the cutting edge at the same height used for the spindle gouge. But it will work fine without the extra bevel.
Hi Mike, I also use the Sorby parting tool upside down. What is the technique for using a parting tool when turning mixed grain, like the outside of a bowl? Keep well, Rob
Be very cautious when using a parting tool for mixed grain. It can get very grabby. Avoid it if there is a better techique although I use for fine turning a tenon or making a recess.
Mike Peace Woodturning Thanks Mike, I got some really nasty catches and was wondering if there was a safe/better way to do it. Keep well, Rob
Hi Mike, thanks for your interesting video. I have a question about your shop-made tools: how much of the 200mm HSS bars you keep exposed, and how much inside the tool handle? Do you have any calculation for that?
Here is some general guidance. Smaller tools like awls maybe an inch. For round-tang tools, the hole’s depth should be one fourth to one third of the tool’s length. (1 1/2” to 2 1/2” )For flat-tang tools, the hole should house the entire tang-almost to the tool’s shoulder. I guess I would make the tang about 1 1/2 to 2". I have a video back in 2015 on making tool handles.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thank you very much. I specifically interested in turning tools handles, with these 200mm bar stock. Is 2" enough?
@@shacharweb2706 Yes that should be plenty
Hey Mike.. yes on the Sorby fluted parting tool. Funny I was just getting ready to call Sorby as I purchased this tool and the instructions had me baffled. Way too far overhanging tool rest just didn't feel safe even! Does your method null the effect of the flute I'm wondering 🤔. Although now it cuts as any gouge with their flutes always up ! Thoughts?
No, I think my way better uses the flute just fine.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks for responding Mike! Enjoying your channel
I didn’t realize I was using my sorby parting tool upside down.
Or Sorby did not realize they were using upside down!
That's what I've been thinking. I'm wondering if their logo on the side of the blade gets flipped over some time soon.
@@weathormantom7206 Have you heard of tradition? I find few large manufacturers quickly correcting mistakes. Record Power still sells 5" faceplate rings in a box marked 4". I pointed this out more than a year ago to their rep at a major turning event.
what speed are you running at
I part off about 1000