A good prop on the water is important in rugby and on the water both give you good go forward and better economics... Hull shot sounds like it would be a red card offence in rugby though. Thanks for the video Sammy, great info as usual!
Great video, I found the prop is just as important as the motor and boat. You don't realise it until you find the right prop for performance. Some boat dealers don't give any information on props as the deal is already done?
Good tip at the end: up here in territory where we fish shallow rock bars etc alloy prop is the go. Definitely saves the gearbox when you hit them with an alloy vs a stainless 👍
I coducted a similar experiment myself, testing cans (aluminium) versus stubbies (glass). I also tested various colours of glass from the standard brown to green and even the clear. Unfortunately i cant remember which was best....
I tried out one of them paper propellers, and the waxed one worked best?,, however none of them lasted very long!,, I also tied a cat on my propeller shaft, and my boat screamed around all day long! ,, it sure had a lot more grip on the water at any speed!,, but stopping the boat climbing up tree's was a bit hard!, but the big bonus was the boat pulled itself out the water and up onto my trailer when it was time to go home!,, now were has that kittycat propeller gone now?,, here pussy pussy,, let's go for a ""spin!""
I just put a brand new white colored suzuki 140hp motor. It came with a 17 pitch aluminum propeller and I'm hitting the Rev limit and I'm not yet but very close to full throttle. Do you think a stainless 17 pitch prop will be better so I can get to full throttle and not over Rev?
Great video! I know it’s been awhile since you’ve purchased the prop but what brand is the stainless prop you finally decided with? I cannot find a Suzuki made 13 7/8 stainless prop? Is yours a different brand? Looking to change out my Suzuki Aluminum 14x19 on my df140 too.
As long as at wide open throttle you can reach your top rev range it’s fine, if you can only get to 4500rpm the motor is not going to like that and you will get oil dilution
If one a tight budget, start hunting around your local motor repairers prop pile, prices start from about $50 each depending on condition, and a good oxy welder can resolve minor dings, so you could literally pay 1/4 of a new prop, but be mindful of the inner vulcanized centre as they do lte go after a few good years in dark storage
I have a stainless prop on my 150hp zuke. Great props, really happy with it. I get unreal fuel economy and mid range speed. Interesting to see the alloy performed not that far back from the stainless. would be a good backup prop.
@@SammyHitzkeFishing so on my old 1992 v4 Johnson 140hp I have a stainless prop fitted,, and I get a whopping big,, 3.5 MPG,, 14 gallons an hour top speed!,, (English gallon,, "8 pint's")
What fuel economy were you getting with the old yamaha. My 115b gets 3.3km per litre same speed and rpm. Should add speeds to the video in subtext. Nice one sammy 👌
@@SammyHitzkeFishing ok I am not a mind reader so please tell me what 2.3 to 2.4 is and also what 1.8 is?,, are they in ltr or gallons,, (US or BRITISH?)
Most people don’t know that the astm speck for all cotter pins reads “ the pin is required to be bent ONE time and not show any evidence of cracking. “
you try telling my pall that!,, he uses them over and over and over,, and if they brake,, well he just whacks in a steel nail!,, he has the boat of death!
Well he was very helpful, stainless is the was to go outside, BUT there is one other option that gives better results across the board, A 4 blade prop.. l ordered one from Solas Prop's, even the pitch on the blades were taken into account, including boat brand and size, motor, expected boat weight, whether conditions, and prefered speeds. the prop l got was smaller than my original but put out far more thrust using less rev's and Fuel. unfortunately l sold that prop when l upgraded boats, didnt think fast enough.. My last 3 boats have all run stainless props, with backups on board,.. including a decent shifter, extra grease, nut, washer and split pins. why the extras, because they don't float
It would be interesting to try a 4 Blade out actually! Maybe in the future! Yeah that's a great idea with all the kit in the boat. good piece of mind on the longer trips!
A number of propeller manufacturers are now using improved hub systems that prevents a lot of the damage folks were experiencing with traditional pressed in hubs (though I think folks with the new style hubs and who operate their vessels in waters with a lot of underwater hazards probably ought to carry spare hub parts in addition to spare props).
It's a "cotter" pin, gentlemen... After old man Cotter that invented them...! It better be an improvement for $400 US... lol (Lower Pitch = Lower Gear Higher Pitch = Higher Gear)...
No , that is not a cotter pin. a cotter pin is like a sort of wedge on one side of a round pin going into a hole. cotter pins were use on old cycle peddle arms... split pin is the correct name. invented in England and we all call it a split pin.....just because the usa uses the wrong words dont make it correct.. a lot of words get bastardised in the usa......
The performance is less important . if you hit a stone or wood close to the coast or on deep waters you know what the difference is on your repair costs. an aluminium prop between $ 100 and $ 200 a complete drive about $2000 enjoy your SS prop.
Stainless props are always superior to alloy. altho if your the type that struggles to back your trailer down the ramp, you can blame drive line failures On the prop to cover your poor navigation.
A good prop on the water is important in rugby and on the water both give you good go forward and better economics... Hull shot sounds like it would be a red card offence in rugby though.
Thanks for the video Sammy, great info as usual!
Great info mate. I lose a little top end for hole shot and manoeuvrability, makes for safer bar crossing 👌👍
Brett O'Leary yeah mate 100%. It’s not often you can go flat out offshore anyway. I’d rather be able to get out of the way quick too 🍻🍻
Great video, I found the prop is just as important as the motor and boat. You don't realise it until you find the right prop for performance. Some boat dealers don't give any information on props as the deal is already done?
tim ford Cheers Tim, appreciate it mate. I reckon your spot on as well! 🍻🍻
Good tip at the end: up here in territory where we fish shallow rock bars etc alloy prop is the go. Definitely saves the gearbox when you hit them with an alloy vs a stainless 👍
The_Red_ Life yeah definitely don’t want to find those rock bars with a stainless! 🍻🍻
so use a jet boat!,, problem solved!,, then thing's will work in an inch or two of water!
Steamed past a pretty good prawn/threadfin spot a few times 👍 these videos are great to see, G'day guys!
mathew hyde might have to go back for a sound around then! 🎣 🎣 😉😉
I coducted a similar experiment myself, testing cans (aluminium) versus stubbies (glass). I also tested various colours of glass from the standard brown to green and even the clear. Unfortunately i cant remember which was best....
Rob Berlin hahah maybe I should conduct the same experiment and see what results I get as well 🤣
I tried out one of them paper propellers, and the waxed one worked best?,, however none of them lasted very long!,, I also tied a cat on my propeller shaft, and my boat screamed around all day long! ,, it sure had a lot more grip on the water at any speed!,, but stopping the boat climbing up tree's was a bit hard!, but the big bonus was the boat pulled itself out the water and up onto my trailer when it was time to go home!,, now were has that kittycat propeller gone now?,, here pussy pussy,, let's go for a ""spin!""
I really like this vid mate. Not much out there with this info. I trialled 3 props before getting a winner for my 140 Zuke. Keep the vids coming mate!
Cheers Craigo!
Did the SS 17"" pitch prop cause the engine to exceed the motor's rated WOT RPMs or hit the limiter at WOT?
I just put a brand new white colored suzuki 140hp motor. It came with a 17 pitch aluminum propeller and I'm hitting the Rev limit and I'm not yet but very close to full throttle. Do you think a stainless 17 pitch prop will be better so I can get to full throttle and not over Rev?
Great video! I know it’s been awhile since you’ve purchased the prop but what brand is the stainless prop you finally decided with? I cannot find a Suzuki made 13 7/8 stainless prop? Is yours a different brand? Looking to change out my Suzuki Aluminum 14x19 on my df140 too.
As long as at wide open throttle you can reach your top rev range it’s fine, if you can only get to 4500rpm the motor is not going to like that and you will get oil dilution
i know next to nothing about boats but that was still somewhat enjoyable
Riley Campbell it’s all good big fella, plenty of fishing come at you on Sunday to put some lead in your pencil 😉😉
If one a tight budget, start hunting around your local motor repairers prop pile, prices start from about $50 each depending on condition, and a good oxy welder can resolve minor dings, so you could literally pay 1/4 of a new prop, but be mindful of the inner vulcanized centre as they do lte go after a few good years in dark storage
another good bit of advice mate! cheers!
off topic, what simrad display are you using?
I have a stainless prop on my 150hp zuke. Great props, really happy with it. I get unreal fuel economy and mid range speed. Interesting to see the alloy performed not that far back from the stainless. would be a good backup prop.
Ahmed A yeah it wasn’t far off the mark, I think over the life of the motor stainless is definitely the way to go though 🍻🍻
@@SammyHitzkeFishing so on my old 1992 v4 Johnson 140hp I have a stainless prop fitted,, and I get a whopping big,, 3.5 MPG,, 14 gallons an hour top speed!,, (English gallon,, "8 pint's")
Ohhh nice...i may have to upgrade on my suzuki. 🤙
OldMate Adventures at least check them out mate and see if it makes a difference or not 👍👍
What fuel economy were you getting with the old yamaha. My 115b gets 3.3km per litre same speed and rpm. Should add speeds to the video in subtext. Nice one sammy 👌
David Mcleish I averaged at about 1.7-1.8km/L so this is a fair wack better. My boats quite heavy with the glass, gear and a 220L fuel tank. 🍻🍻
You could try a 4 blades prop gives my boat more performance.....Mercruiser 425 HO... stainless steel gives more galvanic corrosion....
What is your average fuel economy with the new motor at sea?
David Taylor at cruising speed probably about 2.3-2.4. A lot better than 1.8 I was getting.
@@SammyHitzkeFishing ok I am not a mind reader so please tell me what 2.3 to 2.4 is and also what 1.8 is?,, are they in ltr or gallons,, (US or BRITISH?)
michael thorpe
That’s probably Km / Liter
Most people don’t know that the astm speck for all cotter pins reads “ the pin is required to be bent ONE time and not show any evidence of cracking. “
you try telling my pall that!,, he uses them over and over and over,, and if they brake,, well he just whacks in a steel nail!,, he has the boat of death!
Keep the smaller prop on hand in case you need catch a 3 metre flatty
danieltodd22 then what? Belt it on the head with it? 😂😂
Good video mate
How many split pins and bolts did you drop in water😂👍
Josh Knight hahah if it was me changing them we would have lost them all, Ben was a bit more careful and didn’t lose 1!
Found this really interesting. Probably won't put a stainless on my 40hp 2 stroke, but when that upgrade comes, I'll be informed 👌👍
Snagd Fishing glad you enjoyed it mate 🍻🍻
Do you live on the sunny coast mate?
Brisbane mate
Simple🤗Big engine: Stainless, Small engine: alloy 😉
Black Sniper Sounds good to me! 🍻🍻
Well he was very helpful, stainless is the was to go outside, BUT there is one other option that gives better results across the board, A 4 blade prop.. l ordered one from Solas Prop's, even the pitch on the blades were taken into account, including boat brand and size, motor, expected boat weight, whether conditions, and prefered speeds. the prop l got was smaller than my original but put out far more thrust using less rev's and Fuel. unfortunately l sold that prop when l upgraded boats, didnt think fast enough.. My last 3 boats have all run stainless props, with backups on board,.. including a decent shifter, extra grease, nut, washer and split pins. why the extras, because they don't float
It would be interesting to try a 4 Blade out actually! Maybe in the future! Yeah that's a great idea with all the kit in the boat. good piece of mind on the longer trips!
no they don't,, do they?,,,, so I tie any tool I am using to the boat now!,, if I drop it I just pull it back up!,,
Excellent explanations, good video but please put those who thought the background music in jail: unbearable 🤬
Rad Man!
I never go stainless because if you hit something there is no give except destroying the lower drive.
Stop running into the ground then. Lol. Not the stainless props fault u don't know where your going.
A number of propeller manufacturers are now using improved hub systems that prevents a lot of the damage folks were experiencing with traditional pressed in hubs (though I think folks with the new style hubs and who operate their vessels in waters with a lot of underwater hazards probably ought to carry spare hub parts in addition to spare props).
The prop doesn’t matter if you hit something hard enough to break the gearbox.
I’ve never had issues with stainless props bouncing over debris.
It's a "cotter" pin, gentlemen... After old man Cotter that invented them...! It better be an improvement for $400 US... lol (Lower Pitch = Lower Gear Higher Pitch = Higher Gear)...
No , that is not a cotter pin. a cotter pin is like a sort of wedge on one side of a round pin going into a hole. cotter pins were use on old cycle peddle arms... split pin is the correct name. invented in England and we all call it a split pin.....just because the usa uses the wrong words dont make it correct.. a lot of words get bastardised in the usa......
@@philldownes8685 Apparently you have forgotten that you actually LOST in 1776... Winners RULE...!
The performance is less important . if you hit a stone or wood close to the coast or on deep waters you know what the difference is on your repair costs. an aluminium prop between $ 100 and $ 200 a complete drive about $2000 enjoy your SS prop.
Jindalee ramp?
That's the one!
Stainless vs aluminum
Wherewere.you.on.the.hawkesbury.
Nah the Brisbane river mate
@@SammyHitzkeFishing oh.my.big.mistake.sorry.i.watch.you.videosand.i.thought.you.were.a.hawkesbury.lad.the.similarities.are.unbelievableyou.must.be.a.long.way.up.from.here.it.looks.like.the.territory.weel.above.wisemans.ferry.regards.leeroy.😀😀😀😀😎😎😎😎
Stainless props are always superior to alloy. altho if your the type that struggles to back your trailer down the ramp, you can blame drive line failures On the prop to cover your poor navigation.
stainless is an alloy
How much dollars we talkin
Around the $500-600 mark mate
Could you please reupload it without that horrible tiring background music 🤮
Stainless shits all over alloy in every way.
Can really understand anything with the annoying music in the background
Couldn't watch with music over it makes no sense
Thanks for your feedback 🙂