That's almost certainly a CVT issue. The belt is shuddering as the clutch engages and that causes the bike to shake. The centrifugal clutch might have a broken spring or the clutch shoes might be glazed. If the bike is under 12 months old, then the Honda warranty is still in effect, so I'd go that route first. If the warranty is expired, then a new performance variator, rear drive assembly (pulley, springs, and centrifugal clutch), and belt will set you back around $200-250. Good luck with the diagnosis, and let me know if you need any help... I've been down that road many, many times! 😉👍 --QM
The Minimoto God himself has spoken! 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻 I’m happy to know my diagnosis seems to be pointing in the right direction, and even happier to know that all those parts can be had for so cheap! 😂 I’ll keep you in the loop if I run into anything crazy! 👌🏻
Had a similar issue on a scooter years back and disassembled the variator/CVT transmission for troubleshooting. Found the issue right alway and it was the weights in the variator that had desintegrated partly. I think you need to remove the cover of the final drive and you will probably see right away what the issue is. Quasimotard has extensive knowledge in cvt transmissions and you already know him.
My money is on stripped splines or threads either variator or clutch side. Easy to mess up with an impact wrench. But a big enough mistake to warrant just selling it at MSRP.
I’d definitely take advantage of that warranty, best case scenario you fix it for basically free, worst case scenario you’re in the same spot you’re in now, nothing to lose by just letting them look at it
i was going to say this exact thing, if he had to pay anything itd just be a couple hundred for diagnostic but at least he would have the knowledge, and if its under warranty itll all be free
Right exactly. Even if it’s not covered under warranty and you end up paying for the diagnostic, the mechanic will at least be able to tell you what’s wrong with it and you can determine if: a) you can fix it yourself; or b) the price for them to fix it is worth it to you to let them do it. Good luck man I know this is stressful
I had a 2017 Honda Ruckus which had a similar issue around 1200 miles. Turned out it was the variator weights. Easy repair and cheap. Keep us posted when you find out . I suggest not destroying the Navi but make it a learning experience for all of us. Keep up the great work!
I have this exact same issue on mine. It ended up being the CVT spring, was snapped at the end. Honda covered it under warranty. Otherwise you can buy them pretty cheap and you can actually get them upgraded along with lighter weights for quicker acceleration.
It's funny to listen to everyone guessing. It could be lots of things like you said in the video. It takes less than 5 minutes to pull off the cvt housing to inspect. You don't know if any components are aftermarket. I've modded my navi, and have had positive and negative results. First thing that comes to mine without being able to see inside, is there is an aftermarket clutch, or bell housing that's the wrong size. Next could be a bad combo of rollers or wrong size rollers. Over torqued variator bolt, causing the belt to stick, or possibly over torqued so bad it crushed the drive shaft bearing and its crank walking (check oil for shinys). My guess if the engine sounds good is that there is a broken clutch spring so the clutch is engaging even. That's 3 dollar, 20 mintue fix. FYI, I bought my navi because of your videos. Good luck, keep us posted.
Definitely sounds like the clutch and would also explain why it is worse once the bike warms up. Since you mentioned that it feels faster than your stock Navi it almost makes me think some has played with the CVT. I personaly would take it apart and try to fix it. The parts are cheap and there are tons of UA-cam videos out there showing how to work on the Navi CVT.
As soon as you described the issue the clutch was the first thing that came to mind. I would definitely take advantage of the warranty I don't see any reason they would deny it with only 800 miles on it.
I think you're definitely on the right track. It would be well worth checking on yourself, just pulling the cover to look at everything wouldn't be difficult. If you read this comment and want some help, I'd be happy to help walk you through things. I work as a tech at a powersports dealership so I have access to specs and parts diagrams to help you with it.
My first bike was a 50cc genuine Roughhouse scooter. It was cvt and essentially what you were describing is the variator I had a similar issue. I changed out the rollers inside the variator and that solved my issues it is essentially a wear item so it depends on the mileage. Being so new there shouldnt be a problem but that would be an easy cheap fix. Love the channel been watching for a bit here good luck!
So the vibration is most likely coming from the variator, the first part of belt engagement . This variator is controlled by a set of rollers that spin outwards. If the rollers are dirty they may stick for a second causing vibration (so clean). Or a set of damaged rollers flat spots , but are very cheap parts to change and installing 12 gram or 13 gram rollers can also increase pickup (variator closes faster) squeezing the belt, engaging the secondary clutch more quickly. I would check also polished variator surface causing belt chatter of course everything must slid on the boss freely and must be torqued to specs. Lastly possibly belt damage also very cheap I always have a spare anyway . The cvt cover is easy to remove 1 tricky bolt has a spacer . The cover wiggles out with a little wiggling back and forth the starter cap sticks a little and is finicky to reinstall. This is really easy to do with a metric socket set . And torque wrench. It will teach you how to tune CVT . Hight performance snowmobiles next month.
I agree with you about the clutch. I had the same issue with a scooter and I removed the clutch bell and sanded the contact surface of the clutch bell which cleared up the harsh vibration when accelerating from a stop.
It’s the cvt clutch engaging and disengaging. You need to give it more gas to fully engage clutch. Also just take off the cvt cover and check variator and clutch/rear pulley
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe something misaligned in the clutch. It's almost like how a full size vehicle would act when you let the clutch out to fast, or don't press the clutch when you come to a stop.
"How to disassemble/assemble a Honda Navi clutch" Video incoming :D (hopefully). I also bet on the centrifugal clutch and it would be cool to see some mechanical DIY stuff.
I would make sure the previous owner hasn't done anything to the CVT, I know there are some UA-cam videos about changing the clutch/springs/weights to increase the acceleration of these bikes. Definitely would be my first look.
My dads Honda lead has the exact same rattling and shaking however he doesn’t acknowledge it as a problem and he has had it for over 10 years now he has not had a problem with it I personally wouldn’t worry about it
Even though the guy passed-the-title, he doesn't owe you anything. This is part of the game and once you paid the money, the vehicle is yours, including the problems. You should be ready for that going into buying used vehicles. I really enjoy your channel btw
Agreed! A deal’s a deal and I should’ve checked better. Just trying to figure out what to do next. Live and ya learn! I knew better, but didn’t do better 😂 I appreciate the support dude!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
If it were me, the first stop would be the dealer for warranty evaluation for sure. You can always decide to torture test it for clicks later, but if it’s obviously abused, the dealer definitely won’t cover it under warranty later.
This is one of the reasons why I think America is total s***, you don't run into these problems in Japan. Buy used vehicle (from a dealer) and you get a guarantee that the vehicle will be in perfect operating condition upon it's sale.
Your idle speed rpm is faster than the rpm that you're turning the throttle at so when it syncs up it probably just stops really quick and catches after or the belt could be pinching. Take off that side plate with the kick stand. Those transmissions are only 3 parts. Clutch, belt and the variator( if you don't include the flywheel and clutch bell lol) super super super easy to work on. Rolling wrench would probably point you in the right direction. Keep that thing. The fix is gonna cost $100 and half an hour
My first bike I bought from this very nice couple who also had another Rebel and some Grom's, but the title of the bike they were selling me wasn't in their name yet but was signed to transfer over to them from the previous owner. I had absolutely no problem getting the title into my name and notarized. I definitely do agree, though, with what you said. It was sketchy AF and I just got a hell of a deal. $4,800 for a Rebel 500 last year.
Nice deal dude!! Definitely can be sketchy with title situations like that, but best to feel the situation out. It’s usually kinda easy to tell if the person is trustworthy or not. Just gotta hope your gut instinct is right! 😅
I bought a bike amd sold it 2 weeks later before I transfered it to my name. No issues. I hadnt signed the link yet so I just gave the pink to the dude how I got it from the seller and everything was gucci
My wife’s bike was similar to that I just adjusted the carb a little. And it helped. First just start with the simple adjusting just the throttle screw yes the rear wheel will try to turn or move the bike but at least it will make it rideable
2 things it probably could be from my experience. Either flat spots on the variator rollers seems to be common. 20 bucks fix or a bad belt thats less than 20 bucks. Even if you had to replace the stock clutch or variator and you wanted to stay stock cvt and not upgrade to better performance parts you would spend less than 100 bucks. If you can use a socket set you can do this yourself.
You have the right idea for the cause. Its a variator weight issue. When you give it gas the variator moves to make the belt diameter larger that is causing the issue. Not a big fix. But it was ridden hard by previous owner. I have rebuilt them on Yamaha 50 cc , 125, and one 400 cc scooter that I rode hard.
Really sounds like a CVT issue to me. Maybe weights or springs, I'd see if it could be warrantied out before I went digging around. When you said it feels faster top end, I figured someone had been in that thing.
Yea I think warranty is the first step for sure. I’ve considered whether someone had swapped out some stuff previously, but it doesn’t seem to have been opened up before. And Nina and I took the Navis out together last night and it actually didn’t seem faster than hers like I thought, so I don’t know 😅
@@LifeOfBurch These CVTs are not that complicated. Could just be a belt or a varitor adjustment. Maybe check out ua-cam.com/video/229726ox3fc/v-deo.html
Yeah I agree it sounds like a a CVT issue. Maybe the original person tried to do some upgrades and possibly didn't reinstall either the clutch or variator back correctly.
clutch pads and clutch bell can become glazed and overheated. I resurface the pads with some 60 grit sandpaper to remove glazing, and hit the clutch bell with a drill mounted 3M pad- removes buildup and puts a nice crosshatching on the surface.
The clutch bell is out of round. It sometimes happens if they have overheated. The only way to fix it is to replace it. It shouldn’t be too expensive. Another possibility is a weak or broken centrifugal clutch spring. Also cheap to fix.
Is the CVT clutch, you should keep it build up over time make it yours ROI will be better than just trashing it. I don’t know if is just me being a mechanic But I like watching this kind of videos. Definitely try to do the warranty first.
Yes I concur.. Please, just don't thrash turd Navi, for the sake of thrashing. I would take the CVT cover of and look around. Now that Birch have 2, it is even better to get intimate with the Navi's!
It's weird that the front rattles so much if it's a CVT issue, but I also do feel like it's a CVT issue since it happens on take off. The CVT is pretty simple (variator spins with engine, uses rollers to push the v-plate outward which moves the belt up and engages the clutch and changes the gear ratio), and it almost sounds like your belt is super loose. It's like 6 8mm bolts to pop that CVT cover off and take a look; super quick and easy. You can run it with the cover off and get a much better idea of what might be happening. Changing the rollers in the stock variator is one of the cheapest upgrades for the money that can really change performance. The stock rollers are 17grams and a lot of people go down to 12 or 13g for more acceleration. This previous owner could have done this and reinstalled incorrectly. I'm still banking on a loose belt which you would see right away when you pop that cover off. Hope you get it figured out! Looking forward to a follow up video.
Long time lurker, I came across your channel looking for rider review on the Rebel 1100, and now im hooked on this journey with you. I feel there would be much more value in going the warranty route, telling that story and continuing to give real talk about how to solve these issues, than the instant click bait of destruction/stress video's. My other concern is the kind of message it sends to destroy a bike with only 800 miles on it, go for the bigger victory my dude!
Check the oil to! Cvt comments also sound like it might be in the right place violent shaking sounds like the clutch is not opening up all the way to grab the belt
I just watched another UA-cam video on the Honda Navi where a guy took the variable trans apart, put in newer light weight rollers in the front and a new smaller clutch in the back to squeeze faster times and higher speed from his navi. It looked pretty easy to take apart and put back together. Famous last words...
Heard it said on a previous video, that the spark plug wire has been know to come loose; make and break. Just shove the spark plug wire back in place. Food for thought.
Centrifugal clutch..you can pick up different weight sliders if you really don’t think it’s engaging enough. I really feel it’s the carb. I may not have worked on one (yet) but I’ve done a bunch of research in preparation to work on my inherited vfr750 rc36. At idle it may be fine but under acceleration it sputters and rattles.. you have two sets of jets. Your idle which from what you’re describing wouldn’t be the issue. Your primary jet is what I’d say is the culprit. Pull the spark plug and check it’s colour. I doubt it’d be the sync since it’s a single cylinder…but worth a try. Run a vacuum test (look it up as carburetor balancing) All the research I’ve done says that on a carbureted engine most of the problems you’ll encounter can usually be traced to the carb body
My old 125cc CVT scooter used to do this. It was the CVT belt. I never fixed it and it rode fine. I eventually sold it and got a Trail 125 (which is so much better).
Could be a CVT issue but check the spark plug wire. If there’s a cut in the wire it could arc to the frame or motor and it will get worse when it warms up. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and when the engine warms it actually becomes more resistive to send a pulse to the plug. When that happens the current will spit out of any where it can like a cut in the wire insulation.
If you’re allowed to go to these high and condos upscale living quarters sometimes a lot of the times they will have a message board in the main area bulletin board where residence can someone passively communicate with each other a lot of the times they will leave items for sale.
That’s why the old saying is true “buyer beware” & Never ever make a purchase of anything in a hurry. I’m sorry you’re going through this but at least you have another bike to ride.
Im not an expert, but i worked at a scooter shop. It soulds like the belt or weights are screwing up. If its not covered under warranty, you can upgrade the whole cvt system, pretty cheap.
I bought a Navi for my first bike about four weeks ago I wrecked it on Halloween no broken bones my arms a little jacked up but it’s gonna be fine my front tire was bent to the left
My Suzuki Burgman does a similar thing but only when it’s really cold outside and only does it until it gets a little heat in it I’ve deduced. Usually when I pull out of my driveway and by the time I get to the end of my street, it doesn’t do it again. I would definitely say your not over reacting tho because if mine did it that bad/often I would be worried as well. Good luck with it, I’m sure it’s something simple since it doesn’t do it the entire time.
I'm not being a dick but I don't get the amount of UA-camrs who buy shit under warranty then make videos complaining or trying to get people troubleshooting off a video. First off it's not brand new and it has 800 miles on it. So there was time for someone to mess with the CVT and change things, or it's new and despite Hondas reputation new things can go bad. That's what warranty is for. Seems like the seller is pretty stand up by telling you to bring it in but warning you if someone messed with it it won't be covered. Obviously the guy who sold it didn't do it or run it to know. And everyone skips titles it's not a sign of anything. I don't because I can get a title in a reasonable time where I live but if you get something on trade or are flipping you don't want to wait weeks to sell it.
i would agree with you. I think its the clutch or worst case the whole transmission. Im no expert or have ever had a scooter or mini moto or know about cvt's but that would make the most sense.
i had a similar issue with a yamaha c3,it was vapor lock,i had to blow into gas tank to pressurize it several times and that fixed it for the time,do it through a rag to avoid getting gas in mouth
From PH here.. We've had CVT bikes for years now and in most cases, the rattling you mentioned is what we actually call dragging.. The main cause of it are dust.. Either carbon dust, normal dust, or dust from the belt and clutch lining.. That's pretty normal especially if all the CVT parts are brand new since it needs to break-in.. All you have to do is open your CVT, disassemble everything, clean it with either a de-greaser or a carb cleaner, and then re-assemble it again.. Just don't forget to add high temp grease again on parts where the grease needs to be.. You can watch Pinoy CVT cleaning tips here on YT.. You'll learn how to maintain a CVT type bike in no time..
My own Honda Click 125i started dragging at 300km.. Some CVT drags early and some don't but as a rule of thumb, clean your CVT every 3000km - 5000km depending on your riding condition.. If the area is dusty, you'll need to clean it earlier..
Check out the cvt. I wonder if someone put different rollers in the cvt since you said it’s faster than the other Navi. I got a Honda pcx and I put ncy golden transmission kit in it with after market rollers and occasionally when I take off from a dead stop the belt slips and it chatters and jerks like that.
That thought had crossed my mind, but it doesn’t look like anyone’s opened it up before 🤔 Half of me wants to start digging into it, the other half of me wouldn’t know what I was looking for even if I did 😂 and if it is warranty thing, I don’t want to ruin that by doing anything myself. Decisions, decisions…
Check the torque on the nuts. The clutch and pulley have a nut that’s is torques on to hold everything together. Might just be a loose nut and the assembly is falling apart.
@@LifeOfBurch I say fix it or try to. Lots of people have navis. Could make a whole trouble shooting the Navi cvt series. Probably have a lot of views from it.
Auotmatic transmissions suck like Nissan CVTs. You should dig into the problem one piece at a time. You will definitely learn how to disassemble and reassemble as you go along. Lay the parts out in order, only to put them back the same way. Most importantly take your time and don't rush. Quality beats quantity everytime.
My first guess is the clutch. Pull the cover and watch the action of the clutch (rear) and variator pulley (front). You'll have elevate the rear wheel before doing that.
My vote is to fix it. You haven't done it before, but that just means a chance to learn. CVTs aren't overly difficult to fix/upgrade and it's pretty cheap to boot.
Fix it. Try the warrently first, if not new rollers for the cluch are probably less than 40 bucks. Another option is upgrading the clutch for a couple hundred. I happen to be a ctv guy. This has a ctv that uses 6 barrel rollers to engage. There is some issue with them; maybe a few are stuck, not sure. But that rollers are what cause the clutch to engage with this system. The shaking is caused from the clutch not fully engaging the belt. So it could also be the clutch itself; gotta look at it and see whats going on. It's very accessable and easy to get to it. Just take the cover off.
This has been an issue with Honda for ages! I had the same problem with a Honda Scoopy way back in 1987! On that the belt is supposed to ride on cone shaped system, but at idle it's resting on a straight axle. When you rev up, the belt is supposed to smoothly go up the cone, but it slips. Never got it sorted. Thought Honda had managed to sort it out in the last 35 years....
Go the warranty route first and let the shop take a look at the bike first. If it is something the warranty doesn't cover at least you'll have a answer what the noise is. I think the noise has something to do CVT/belt. I've worked on bikes many years and would be able to figure out how to fix it. Getting a Honda Navi service manual would also help. One thing also, please don't destroy this bike, I think this Navi can be fixed for a reasonable cost. I still think you still got a good deal on a used Navi.
A different set of weights in the CVT will definitely cause that to happen! Could also be damage to the clutch mechanism like a spring or a variator plate. But most likely, different weights are causing the clutch to shudder because you need some more engine speed to actually stretch the belt.
Do a video of you fixing it yourself, change weights and belt or see if they do a polini kit for it, that can make it go a bit faster also? Videos are on UA-cam, you will benefit from the experience and knowledge, knowing how to change belts and roller weights will save you money in future anyway... do not stress test it, it's a lovely machine that probably has minimal fault I love the colour if it too... we don't get them in UK but I wish we did, the only thing I would like to see is fuel injection on them..
Before you said it I was thinking clutch, see if they replaced it. A lot of people in my Navi group swapped for an aftermarket clutch, and some had issues after the swap
My Navi after a few hundred miles started to shake and bog down when taking off. Finally it just wouldn’t start, Turns out the spark plug cap was mot screwed into the spark plug wire. Just a thought. Gary
i'm not a bike guy. but i like to think im a mechanic ( no not just a guy down the street that only does spark plugs that come pre gapped but i have my A&P and i'm obsessed with cars carburetor and fuel injected ) if i'm going to guess yes its the clutch too ( if not the clutch then a part on the clutch that gets jammed and once unjammed works good at any speed above the engagement speed ( or stall speed). should be under warranty if im guessing only because it seems like with 800 miles it still should not need a lot of maintenance. if not i dont think that the part is alot just sux that its something you may need to buy that may bump up the cost to more than MSRP. :( good luck and i hope it's covered. im looking into getting a NAVI, i go to car shows a lot and would like one for the pits or shows.
Honestly def start with the warranty then I would take a peek at the belt, because maybe its slipping when the belt gets warm. I suggest a high quality gates belt
Definitely a centrifugal clutch issue. Maybe there's oil on the clutch, or maybe a spring is broken. Suggest looking at two UA-cam videos, "2022 HONDA NAVI CLUTCH INSTALL!" and "Honda Navi clutch broke / how to change clutch"
just take it in and see how much to fix the clutch. if it's not covered, fix it yourself and make a how-to-fix-it series. the navi is popular and if this issue is common then it'll be a popular video getting consistent hits even after it's a few months old
Its the cvt transmission, take the cover off and check the clutch and rollers there are videos to show you how, someone, probably changed rollers and didn't do it right
Just noticed a red one across the street. The kid that owned it was working on it feverishly but couldn't get it running. Hard to believe this is a Honda.
Pretty much like a moped clutch and belt id assume, my friend decided to take his mopeds one apart. Theres alot of springs and plates in it and if you dont get fhem assembled right the bike does this or in his case wouldnt go over 30mph and reving super high
That's almost certainly a CVT issue. The belt is shuddering as the clutch engages and that causes the bike to shake. The centrifugal clutch might have a broken spring or the clutch shoes might be glazed.
If the bike is under 12 months old, then the Honda warranty is still in effect, so I'd go that route first. If the warranty is expired, then a new performance variator, rear drive assembly (pulley, springs, and centrifugal clutch), and belt will set you back around $200-250. Good luck with the diagnosis, and let me know if you need any help... I've been down that road many, many times! 😉👍 --QM
The Minimoto God himself has spoken! 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
I’m happy to know my diagnosis seems to be pointing in the right direction, and even happier to know that all those parts can be had for so cheap! 😂 I’ll keep you in the loop if I run into anything crazy! 👌🏻
Had a similar issue on a scooter years back and disassembled the variator/CVT transmission for troubleshooting. Found the issue right alway and it was the weights in the variator that had desintegrated partly. I think you need to remove the cover of the final drive and you will probably see right away what the issue is.
Quasimotard has extensive knowledge in cvt transmissions and you already know him.
My money is on stripped splines or threads either variator or clutch side. Easy to mess up with an impact wrench. But a big enough mistake to warrant just selling it at MSRP.
@@LifeOfBurch is it still under warranty? I'm really invested in this story now lol
Damn you both! You're making me want a busted Navi to fix up! :P
I’d definitely take advantage of that warranty, best case scenario you fix it for basically free, worst case scenario you’re in the same spot you’re in now, nothing to lose by just letting them look at it
True that! I like that line of thinking 🤘🏻
i was going to say this exact thing, if he had to pay anything itd just be a couple hundred for diagnostic but at least he would have the knowledge, and if its under warranty itll all be free
Right exactly. Even if it’s not covered under warranty and you end up paying for the diagnostic, the mechanic will at least be able to tell you what’s wrong with it and you can determine if: a) you can fix it yourself; or b) the price for them to fix it is worth it to you to let them do it. Good luck man I know this is stressful
Clutch studder my beo, 181 cc does that as standard operating for that model. Sort of trashy. 😁
I was thinking the same thing There has to be a warranty.
I had a 2017 Honda Ruckus which had a similar issue around 1200 miles. Turned out it was the variator weights. Easy repair and cheap. Keep us posted when you find out . I suggest not destroying the Navi but make it a learning experience for all of us. Keep up the great work!
The variator weights will make the rattling sound but they're not going to shake the bike like that.
You’re making a simple thing unnecessarily complicated. Just get it fixed under warranty. It has only 800 miles, right?
I have this exact same issue on mine. It ended up being the CVT spring, was snapped at the end. Honda covered it under warranty. Otherwise you can buy them pretty cheap and you can actually get them upgraded along with lighter weights for quicker acceleration.
It's funny to listen to everyone guessing. It could be lots of things like you said in the video. It takes less than 5 minutes to pull off the cvt housing to inspect. You don't know if any components are aftermarket. I've modded my navi, and have had positive and negative results. First thing that comes to mine without being able to see inside, is there is an aftermarket clutch, or bell housing that's the wrong size. Next could be a bad combo of rollers or wrong size rollers. Over torqued variator bolt, causing the belt to stick, or possibly over torqued so bad it crushed the drive shaft bearing and its crank walking (check oil for shinys). My guess if the engine sounds good is that there is a broken clutch spring so the clutch is engaging even. That's 3 dollar, 20 mintue fix. FYI, I bought my navi because of your videos. Good luck, keep us posted.
Definitely sounds like the clutch and would also explain why it is worse once the bike warms up. Since you mentioned that it feels faster than your stock Navi it almost makes me think some has played with the CVT. I personaly would take it apart and try to fix it. The parts are cheap and there are tons of UA-cam videos out there showing how to work on the Navi CVT.
This sort of thing just worries me so much. Imma get a grom real soon and it really makes me want one straight from the dealership
As soon as you described the issue the clutch was the first thing that came to mind. I would definitely take advantage of the warranty I don't see any reason they would deny it with only 800 miles on it.
I think you're definitely on the right track. It would be well worth checking on yourself, just pulling the cover to look at everything wouldn't be difficult. If you read this comment and want some help, I'd be happy to help walk you through things. I work as a tech at a powersports dealership so I have access to specs and parts diagrams to help you with it.
My first bike was a 50cc genuine Roughhouse scooter. It was cvt and essentially what you were describing is the variator I had a similar issue. I changed out the rollers inside the variator and that solved my issues it is essentially a wear item so it depends on the mileage. Being so new there shouldnt be a problem but that would be an easy cheap fix. Love the channel been watching for a bit here good luck!
So the vibration is most likely coming from the variator, the first part of belt engagement .
This variator is controlled by a set of rollers that spin outwards.
If the rollers are dirty they may stick for a second causing vibration (so clean). Or a set of damaged rollers flat spots ,
but are very cheap parts to change and installing 12 gram or 13 gram rollers can also increase pickup (variator closes faster) squeezing the belt, engaging the secondary clutch more quickly.
I would check also polished variator surface causing belt chatter of course everything must slid on the boss freely and must be torqued to specs. Lastly possibly belt damage also very cheap I always have a spare anyway .
The cvt cover is easy to remove 1 tricky bolt has a spacer . The cover wiggles out with a little wiggling back and forth the starter cap sticks a little and is finicky to reinstall. This is really easy to do with a metric socket set . And torque wrench.
It will teach you how to tune CVT . Hight performance snowmobiles next month.
I agree with you about the clutch. I had the same issue with a scooter and I removed the clutch bell and sanded the contact surface of the clutch bell which cleared up the harsh vibration when accelerating from a stop.
It’s the cvt clutch engaging and disengaging. You need to give it more gas to fully engage clutch. Also just take off the cvt cover and check variator and clutch/rear pulley
The stopping is an important part, so glad you tested that 🤣
😂😂😂
I was thinking the same thing! Maybe something misaligned in the clutch. It's almost like how a full size vehicle would act when you let the clutch out to fast, or don't press the clutch when you come to a stop.
"How to disassemble/assemble a Honda Navi clutch" Video incoming :D (hopefully). I also bet on the centrifugal clutch and it would be cool to see some mechanical DIY stuff.
Hahah I wouldn’t doubt that there’s a video like that coming very soon! 😂
There is several vids already
Rolling wrench has one out.
More also on variator upgrades
Malossi variator kits ect.
Go carts have centrifugal clutches too and they make that same sound/shake at take off. I think you nailed the source of the issue.
Hope you get it fixed so you and Nina both have one!
But stress-testing it would be a blast for you!
Thanks!! And yea the torture test would be a BLAST! Some people already seem upset at that idea, but oh well 😂
@@LifeOfBurch you do you!!
I would make sure the previous owner hasn't done anything to the CVT, I know there are some UA-cam videos about changing the clutch/springs/weights to increase the acceleration of these bikes. Definitely would be my first look.
My dads Honda lead has the exact same rattling and shaking however he doesn’t acknowledge it as a problem and he has had it for over 10 years now he has not had a problem with it I personally wouldn’t worry about it
That’s reassuring! 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻
Even though the guy passed-the-title, he doesn't owe you anything. This is part of the game and once you paid the money, the vehicle is yours, including the problems. You should be ready for that going into buying used vehicles. I really enjoy your channel btw
Agreed! A deal’s a deal and I should’ve checked better. Just trying to figure out what to do next. Live and ya learn! I knew better, but didn’t do better 😂 I appreciate the support dude!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
@@LifeOfBurch I'm in Fairfax, I missed the meet up this year but I'll be there next year for sure 👊
If it were me, the first stop would be the dealer for warranty evaluation for sure. You can always decide to torture test it for clicks later, but if it’s obviously abused, the dealer definitely won’t cover it under warranty later.
This is one of the reasons why I think America is total s***, you don't run into these problems in Japan. Buy used vehicle (from a dealer) and you get a guarantee that the vehicle will be in perfect operating condition upon it's sale.
@@kakachi that's cool, he didn't get it from a dealer so it still applys to japan
The problem is in the variator and it is a fairly easy fix. Some of the variator weights are sticking.
Your idle speed rpm is faster than the rpm that you're turning the throttle at so when it syncs up it probably just stops really quick and catches after or the belt could be pinching. Take off that side plate with the kick stand. Those transmissions are only 3 parts. Clutch, belt and the variator( if you don't include the flywheel and clutch bell lol) super super super easy to work on. Rolling wrench would probably point you in the right direction. Keep that thing. The fix is gonna cost $100 and half an hour
My first bike I bought from this very nice couple who also had another Rebel and some Grom's, but the title of the bike they were selling me wasn't in their name yet but was signed to transfer over to them from the previous owner. I had absolutely no problem getting the title into my name and notarized. I definitely do agree, though, with what you said. It was sketchy AF and I just got a hell of a deal. $4,800 for a Rebel 500 last year.
Nice deal dude!! Definitely can be sketchy with title situations like that, but best to feel the situation out. It’s usually kinda easy to tell if the person is trustworthy or not. Just gotta hope your gut instinct is right! 😅
I bought a bike amd sold it 2 weeks later before I transfered it to my name. No issues. I hadnt signed the link yet so I just gave the pink to the dude how I got it from the seller and everything was gucci
That’s standard protocol for most dealers no need to put the assets in their name it’s a waste of money
@@dontdoxmebro yes but typically when private sellers do this it means they found an issue with the bike and are trying to ditch it fast
Check everything you can with a Tork wrench and tighten everything to the proper tork pressure.
My wife’s bike was similar to that I just adjusted the carb a little. And it helped. First just start with the simple adjusting just the throttle screw yes the rear wheel will try to turn or move the bike but at least it will make it rideable
Sounds like the first owner tried doing a tuneup to get more performance out of it and it didn’t go as well as they hoped.
Absolutely. Leave the damn things alone
2 things it probably could be from my experience. Either flat spots on the variator rollers seems to be common. 20 bucks fix or a bad belt thats less than 20 bucks. Even if you had to replace the stock clutch or variator and you wanted to stay stock cvt and not upgrade to better performance parts you would spend less than 100 bucks. If you can use a socket set you can do this yourself.
about 350 for a new upgraded cvt system.
You have the right idea for the cause. Its a variator weight issue. When you give it gas the variator moves to make the belt diameter larger that is causing the issue. Not a big fix. But it was ridden hard by previous owner. I have rebuilt them on Yamaha 50 cc , 125, and one 400 cc scooter that I rode hard.
Really sounds like a CVT issue to me. Maybe weights or springs, I'd see if it could be warrantied out before I went digging around.
When you said it feels faster top end, I figured someone had been in that thing.
Yea I think warranty is the first step for sure. I’ve considered whether someone had swapped out some stuff previously, but it doesn’t seem to have been opened up before. And Nina and I took the Navis out together last night and it actually didn’t seem faster than hers like I thought, so I don’t know 😅
@@LifeOfBurch These CVTs are not that complicated. Could just be a belt or a varitor adjustment. Maybe check out ua-cam.com/video/229726ox3fc/v-deo.html
Yeah I agree it sounds like a a CVT issue. Maybe the original person tried to do some upgrades and possibly didn't reinstall either the clutch or variator back correctly.
@@LifeOfBurch check the variator rollers are stock. And that they have no flat spots
@Neel Nguyen This is the most correct, accurate and close to what might have happened with this bike and previous owner and bike....
Sad to hear, hope you get it figured out man! I would take it to get it looked at under warranty bro if you can
Thanks dude! I’m definitely leaning towards starting out with the warranty attempt first.
Warranty doesn't transfer owners
@@californiapoontappa yes it does. Warranty is a attached to the bike, not the owner. It is absolutely still under warranty
clutch pads and clutch bell can become glazed and overheated. I resurface the pads with some 60 grit sandpaper to remove glazing, and hit the clutch bell with a drill mounted 3M pad- removes buildup and puts a nice crosshatching on the surface.
Honestly I think you are right about the centrifugal clutch
The clutch bell is out of round. It sometimes happens if they have overheated. The only way to fix it is to replace it. It shouldn’t be too expensive. Another possibility is a weak or broken centrifugal clutch spring. Also cheap to fix.
Is the CVT clutch, you should keep it build up over time make it yours ROI will be better than just trashing it. I don’t know if is just me being a mechanic But I like watching this kind of videos. Definitely try to do the warranty first.
Yes I concur.. Please, just don't thrash turd Navi, for the sake of thrashing. I would take the CVT cover of and look around. Now that Birch have 2, it is even better to get intimate with the Navi's!
@@heritagehillsecurity8778 I second that notion.
It's weird that the front rattles so much if it's a CVT issue, but I also do feel like it's a CVT issue since it happens on take off. The CVT is pretty simple (variator spins with engine, uses rollers to push the v-plate outward which moves the belt up and engages the clutch and changes the gear ratio), and it almost sounds like your belt is super loose. It's like 6 8mm bolts to pop that CVT cover off and take a look; super quick and easy. You can run it with the cover off and get a much better idea of what might be happening.
Changing the rollers in the stock variator is one of the cheapest upgrades for the money that can really change performance. The stock rollers are 17grams and a lot of people go down to 12 or 13g for more acceleration. This previous owner could have done this and reinstalled incorrectly. I'm still banking on a loose belt which you would see right away when you pop that cover off.
Hope you get it figured out! Looking forward to a follow up video.
Thanks for the insight brotha!! I really appreciate it! I’ll for sure keep everyone posted on what I find out 🤘🏻
100% agree with this. Pop that bad boy open and give her a looksie.
I had a scooter that acted identical, issue was a flat spot on one of the rollers.
Long time lurker, I came across your channel looking for rider review on the Rebel 1100, and now im hooked on this journey with you. I feel there would be much more value in going the warranty route, telling that story and continuing to give real talk about how to solve these issues, than the instant click bait of destruction/stress video's. My other concern is the kind of message it sends to destroy a bike with only 800 miles on it, go for the bigger victory my dude!
Check the oil to! Cvt comments also sound like it might be in the right place violent shaking sounds like the clutch is not opening up all the way to grab the belt
I just watched another UA-cam video on the Honda Navi where a guy took the variable trans apart, put in newer light weight rollers in the front and a new smaller clutch in the back to squeeze faster times and higher speed from his navi. It looked pretty easy to take apart and put back together. Famous last words...
Great video Burch !!! 🤙🏽
Thanks Marvin!! 🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
Ima put post notifications on and I would LOVE to see you just absolutely WRECK THIS BIKE
im sorry to hear this brother! i hope they find out something and you get it fixed!
100% Clutch. You answered your own question. Thanks for posting.
Can’t wait to find out what’s wrong with it. Keep it.
Heard it said on a previous video, that the spark plug wire has been know to come loose; make and break. Just shove the spark plug wire back in place. Food for thought.
Centrifugal clutch..you can pick up different weight sliders if you really don’t think it’s engaging enough.
I really feel it’s the carb. I may not have worked on one (yet) but I’ve done a bunch of research in preparation to work on my inherited vfr750 rc36. At idle it may be fine but under acceleration it sputters and rattles.. you have two sets of jets. Your idle which from what you’re describing wouldn’t be the issue. Your primary jet is what I’d say is the culprit.
Pull the spark plug and check it’s colour.
I doubt it’d be the sync since it’s a single cylinder…but worth a try. Run a vacuum test (look it up as carburetor balancing)
All the research I’ve done says that on a carbureted engine most of the problems you’ll encounter can usually be traced to the carb body
Always bringing good content 😌👌✨
Variator weights would be my guess. One probably has a flat spot. Replace them clean everything well and good to go. Easy cheap repair.
My old 125cc CVT scooter used to do this. It was the CVT belt. I never fixed it and it rode fine. I eventually sold it and got a Trail 125 (which is so much better).
Could be a CVT issue but check the spark plug wire. If there’s a cut in the wire it could arc to the frame or motor and it will get worse when it warms up. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and when the engine warms it actually becomes more resistive to send a pulse to the plug. When that happens the current will spit out of any where it can like a cut in the wire insulation.
If you’re allowed to go to these high and condos upscale living quarters sometimes a lot of the times they will have a message board in the main area bulletin board where residence can someone passively communicate with each other a lot of the times they will leave items for sale.
I would see about the warranty
Yea I’m definitely leaning that way! It would make my life much easier if it were a warranty item 🤞🏻
@@LifeOfBurch agreed....good luck 🤞
Check your belt and clutch. A big bore kit will help alot
Just bought a 2023 rebel and the dealer near me had a new brown Navi for $1600. In fact they actually had a lot of new bikes under MSRP.
That’s why the old saying is true “buyer beware” & Never ever make a purchase of anything in a hurry. I’m sorry you’re going through this but at least you have another bike to ride.
Check to see how much play you got on the chain and all bolts that hold the motor and rear tire on place
If it's under warranty then take it to a dealer
I had Same issue on my Honda Wave about 10 years ago...
it's easy and cheap fix as ppl say and describe it ...
Im not an expert, but i worked at a scooter shop. It soulds like the belt or weights are screwing up. If its not covered under warranty, you can upgrade the whole cvt system, pretty cheap.
I bought a Navi for my first bike about four weeks ago I wrecked it on Halloween no broken bones my arms a little jacked up but it’s gonna be fine my front tire was bent to the left
My Suzuki Burgman does a similar thing but only when it’s really cold outside and only does it until it gets a little heat in it I’ve deduced. Usually when I pull out of my driveway and by the time I get to the end of my street, it doesn’t do it again. I would definitely say your not over reacting tho because if mine did it that bad/often I would be worried as well. Good luck with it, I’m sure it’s something simple since it doesn’t do it the entire time.
I'm not being a dick but I don't get the amount of UA-camrs who buy shit under warranty then make videos complaining or trying to get people troubleshooting off a video. First off it's not brand new and it has 800 miles on it. So there was time for someone to mess with the CVT and change things, or it's new and despite Hondas reputation new things can go bad. That's what warranty is for. Seems like the seller is pretty stand up by telling you to bring it in but warning you if someone messed with it it won't be covered. Obviously the guy who sold it didn't do it or run it to know. And everyone skips titles it's not a sign of anything. I don't because I can get a title in a reasonable time where I live but if you get something on trade or are flipping you don't want to wait weeks to sell it.
i would agree with you. I think its the clutch or worst case the whole transmission. Im no expert or have ever had a scooter or mini moto or know about cvt's but that would make the most sense.
i had a similar issue with a yamaha c3,it was vapor lock,i had to blow into gas tank to pressurize it several times and that fixed it for the time,do it through a rag to avoid getting gas in mouth
From PH here.. We've had CVT bikes for years now and in most cases, the rattling you mentioned is what we actually call dragging.. The main cause of it are dust.. Either carbon dust, normal dust, or dust from the belt and clutch lining.. That's pretty normal especially if all the CVT parts are brand new since it needs to break-in.. All you have to do is open your CVT, disassemble everything, clean it with either a de-greaser or a carb cleaner, and then re-assemble it again.. Just don't forget to add high temp grease again on parts where the grease needs to be..
You can watch Pinoy CVT cleaning tips here on YT.. You'll learn how to maintain a CVT type bike in no time..
My own Honda Click 125i started dragging at 300km.. Some CVT drags early and some don't but as a rule of thumb, clean your CVT every 3000km - 5000km depending on your riding condition.. If the area is dusty, you'll need to clean it earlier..
I hope the shakes get figured out! Yikes! 😢😭❤️
Either the clutch or the rollers
Check out the cvt. I wonder if someone put different rollers in the cvt since you said it’s faster than the other Navi. I got a Honda pcx and I put ncy golden transmission kit in it with after market rollers and occasionally when I take off from a dead stop the belt slips and it chatters and jerks like that.
I think your on the right track. Could be a spring issue or shoe pad issues.
That thought had crossed my mind, but it doesn’t look like anyone’s opened it up before 🤔 Half of me wants to start digging into it, the other half of me wouldn’t know what I was looking for even if I did 😂 and if it is warranty thing, I don’t want to ruin that by doing anything myself. Decisions, decisions…
Check the torque on the nuts. The clutch and pulley have a nut that’s is torques on to hold everything together. Might just be a loose nut and the assembly is falling apart.
@@LifeOfBurch I say fix it or try to. Lots of people have navis. Could make a whole trouble shooting the Navi cvt series. Probably have a lot of views from it.
@@LifeOfBurch Open and compare both your Navi’s, as a UA-camr lol
Auotmatic transmissions suck like Nissan CVTs. You should dig into the problem one piece at a time. You will definitely learn how to disassemble and reassemble as you go along. Lay the parts out in order, only to put them back the same way. Most importantly take your time and don't rush. Quality beats quantity everytime.
I had a scooter that had one of the clutch pads broke and did a very similar situation. 25 or 30 bucks later all fixed and easy repair.
My first guess is the clutch. Pull the cover and watch the action of the clutch (rear) and variator pulley (front). You'll have elevate the rear wheel before doing that.
My vote is to fix it. You haven't done it before, but that just means a chance to learn. CVTs aren't overly difficult to fix/upgrade and it's pretty cheap to boot.
Clutch springs not strong enough to spin clucht out so it can engage with drive bell housing
Fix it. Try the warrently first, if not new rollers for the cluch are probably less than 40 bucks. Another option is upgrading the clutch for a couple hundred.
I happen to be a ctv guy. This has a ctv that uses 6 barrel rollers to engage. There is some issue with them; maybe a few are stuck, not sure. But that rollers are what cause the clutch to engage with this system. The shaking is caused from the clutch not fully engaging the belt. So it could also be the clutch itself; gotta look at it and see whats going on. It's very accessable and easy to get to it. Just take the cover off.
Scored a used navi 2022 for 1000$ dude dropped it once only 700 miles rlly lucky have been enjoying the bike no issues at all
Check the warranty but it might be a broken clutch spring.
Kill two birds with one stone; sell the NAVI to Whistlindeisel so he can 'test' it thoroughly.
This has been an issue with Honda for ages! I had the same problem with a Honda Scoopy way back in 1987! On that the belt is supposed to ride on cone shaped system, but at idle it's resting on a straight axle. When you rev up, the belt is supposed to smoothly go up the cone, but it slips. Never got it sorted. Thought Honda had managed to sort it out in the last 35 years....
Go the warranty route first and let the shop take a look at the bike first. If it is something the warranty doesn't cover at least you'll have a answer what the noise is. I think the noise has something to do CVT/belt. I've worked on bikes many years and would be able to figure out how to fix it. Getting a Honda Navi service manual would also help. One thing also, please don't destroy this bike, I think this Navi can be fixed for a reasonable cost. I still think you still got a good deal on a used Navi.
A different set of weights in the CVT will definitely cause that to happen! Could also be damage to the clutch mechanism like a spring or a variator plate. But most likely, different weights are causing the clutch to shudder because you need some more engine speed to actually stretch the belt.
Pop open the CVT, inspect the belt, clutch, and variarator. Its not complex, lots of youtube videos on the matter.
Do a video of you fixing it yourself, change weights and belt or see if they do a polini kit for it, that can make it go a bit faster also? Videos are on UA-cam, you will benefit from the experience and knowledge, knowing how to change belts and roller weights will save you money in future anyway... do not stress test it, it's a lovely machine that probably has minimal fault I love the colour if it too... we don't get them in UK but I wish we did, the only thing I would like to see is fuel injection on them..
they also have aftermarket clutches that are lighter and will add performance
Before you said it I was thinking clutch, see if they replaced it. A lot of people in my Navi group swapped for an aftermarket clutch, and some had issues after the swap
Always rebuild plus more power!!
My Navi after a few hundred miles started to shake and bog down when taking off. Finally it just wouldn’t start, Turns out the spark plug cap was mot screwed into the spark plug wire. Just a thought.
Gary
i'm not a bike guy. but i like to think im a mechanic ( no not just a guy down the street that only does spark plugs that come pre gapped but i have my A&P and i'm obsessed with cars carburetor and fuel injected ) if i'm going to guess yes its the clutch too ( if not the clutch then a part on the clutch that gets jammed and once unjammed works good at any speed above the engagement speed ( or stall speed). should be under warranty if im guessing only because it seems like with 800 miles it still should not need a lot of maintenance. if not i dont think that the part is alot just sux that its something you may need to buy that may bump up the cost to more than MSRP. :(
good luck and i hope it's covered. im looking into getting a NAVI, i go to car shows a lot and would like one for the pits or shows.
Taking in for the warranty is your best bet
Imma need your luck finding deals. I can only find an early 2000's bike for the same price as your new Honda Rebel :/
Honestly def start with the warranty then I would take a peek at the belt, because maybe its slipping when the belt gets warm. I suggest a high quality gates belt
Definitely a centrifugal clutch issue. Maybe there's oil on the clutch, or maybe a spring is broken. Suggest looking at two UA-cam videos, "2022 HONDA NAVI CLUTCH INSTALL!" and "Honda Navi clutch broke / how to change clutch"
just take it in and see how much to fix the clutch. if it's not covered, fix it yourself and make a how-to-fix-it series. the navi is popular and if this issue is common then it'll be a popular video getting consistent hits even after it's a few months old
Its the cvt transmission, take the cover off and check the clutch and rollers there are videos to show you how, someone, probably changed rollers and didn't do it right
The whistling diesel in me says stress test but I also have a Navi so it would be cool to learn about how it gets fixed
Just noticed a red one across the street. The kid that owned it was working on it feverishly but couldn't get it running. Hard to believe this is a Honda.
Pretty much like a moped clutch and belt id assume, my friend decided to take his mopeds one apart. Theres alot of springs and plates in it and if you dont get fhem assembled right the bike does this or in his case wouldnt go over 30mph and reving super high
Its the centrifical clutch, my bonanza mini bike did the same. Should be an easy fix.
Dude theres nothing wrong with it, relax man. Its a nice bike and your on this nice ride. It'll Be Fine!
Better yet i bet it needs a new belt. The cvt seems like its causing the jumping as well.