Which to use when? Garment ASSEMBLY, so attaching pieces together with a seam: the "nameless seaming stitch" (demonstrated first) Garment FINISHING, so hemming the edge of a piece AND laying in the lining for the piece: ‘la point à rabattre sous main’, today often called ‘underhand hem/edge/topstitch (demonstrated second) Do you use these stitches in YOUR work? I'd love to hear what you've been making using these historical techiques!
Thank you for this lovely tutorial. I had my mini sample and followed along. I must admit, I’m amazed at how easy and how quickly these stitches come togethr
There is more names! In PhD Pernilla Rasmussons thesis she has sereval different name for the first one, two german: "die englishe Nath" and "beidseitige Saumstiche", and one norwegian: "spilesøm". The technique is still used in traditional costume in both Norway and Sweden today. For the second stitch I have some different namnes in swedish: Prickfållning (ONLY means that seam), but sometimes it is also called just "fållstygn" or "prickstickning" wich also can be used for similar stitches with but in other places of the garment. How old the terms is I am unsure of, but all of them is still in us in traditional clothing.
This explains a lot. I'd been looking for a tutorial for this stitch just recently but I couldn't find one because I couldn't remember it's name. Turns out it doesn't have one!
I'm glad you found it helpful! When reading modern-day instructions, I find it helps to know what people are calling these things today, even if it's not what may have been used back in the period. So I hope having those additional names help, too -- they're in the video description for easy reference in future, so you don't have to watch/listen to the whole video again to find them.
Thank you for the instruction. Both stitches are beautiful; the English stitch for garment assembly and the 'La pointe a rabattre sous main' (the point will be folded under hand) for garment finishing. Incidentally, the stitch you call 'basting stitch', I call 'tacking stitch' but I believe both are correct. Greetings from Bournemouth, England.
Hi Wallis, I'm glad you find this helpful. I find that "basting" is pretty readily understood on both sides of "the pond", but "tacking" does mean different things to people in different locations and from different sewing backgrounds. (Dual UK/US national here.... 30 years in the US + 20 in the UK. ;) )
“La pointe à rabattre sous main” can be translated to: turn/tuck the point under the hand or very literally: the point to turn/tuck under the hand, for those interested and if it helps to understand the stitch better 😊 as a French person it always makes me smile when I see that some stitches still have french names
For those interested, and if it helps, here is how to pronounce it: “La pwont a rabatr soo mon” -don’t pronounce the “n”s. Pointe and main are both pronounced similarly to the number 1 in French. And the “A”s in “la” “a” and “rabattre” are pronounced like the A in “apple” 😊
@@whatjoaniecreates Thank you! I thought about including that but find that personally the literal translation only confuses me. Hopefully that's only me!
Timesmith Dressmaking yes it can be a bit confusing. I always like to know what something means when it’s in an other language, I think it’s quite interesting 😊
The one with the French name is also referred to as the 18th century edge stitch which is certainly easier to say and remember--given it is on the edge and not used for seaming.
@@TimesmithDressHistory I go with it because I simply cannot pronounce French. LOL. Plus since that stitch is always on the edge, it's easier to remember--it sort of describes the function.
@@kozykitty I agree. Though the first time I heard someone use "edge stitch", I didn't know what they meant and their reply was kind of "oh, you know, whatever you want to do there". I like a bit more precision, personally! But it definitely helps to know that some people saying "edge stitch" do mean *this* stitch! 😂
This is a fantastic video! I do have a small critique about the volume mixing. The music volume is a decent volume or it can be mixed a little louder, but I'd definitely mix your voice over much louder. As it is right now, it's on par with the volume ASMR artists use and I have to turn up my volume all the way just to be able to hear you normally. Thank you for sharing this great information 😊
Thank you! and thank you for the feedback on the audio. I confess I'm still struggling to get to grips with the editing/mixing side of things and my own hearing loss doesn't help. I preview the final sequence in the software, then export to MP4 and listen again, and then so often it's slightly different after it's gone through UA-cam's upload process. :( I'll continue to work on this, as I absolutely do not want poor audio to compromise the communication of the content! I'm also working on sub-title solutions that are better than UA-cam's. I hope you can stick around and give me continued feedback on future videos so I can make sure it's improving!
I've got a head cannon for the first stitch: it's the same as the one Thérèse de Dillmont refers to as "antique or old-german seam" and Bertha Banner as "old german stitch". They apply it to joining two pieces by the selvedge, so it's just "skip one and prick through the other", but "skip one and prick through the others" is not a big stretch. In french, Dillmont calls it "surjet antique", so I guess it's where her first designation comes from, and the second may be more idiomatic in english. I suspect that she may have reverse - engineered it since she says: "Seams of this kind occur in old embroidered linen articles, where the stuff was too narrow to allow for any other." For the second, the french source is Garsault's 1769 "L'Art du tailleur", published by the Academy of science in a series on trades, and not Diderot, who finished working on the Encyclopedia in 1765, and is not responsible for the borrowing of Garsault's work for the "supplement" in the following decade. He describes two types of stitches "à rabattre" (hemming) and "à rentraire" (felling) : the first is just a running stitch through both fabric, when they are level (for example when they will be encased in a ribbon or, for felling a seam, with smaller, almost invisible stitches) called "sur la main" or on the hand, the second, that you showed in the video, "sous la main" or under the hand, when the main fabric is somewhat proud of the lining. He describes it being made from the outside of the garment and not from the lining side. So I guess "underhand hem" is the most direct translation, but since we don't have a modern french equivalent, some of the meaning may have been lost to time.
Also, just because I was curious, I put the French name in Google translate. Google said it means 'the point to be folded off at hand.' So although vague and probably because Google translate is not always up to snuff, it seems to be more a description.
Ooooh, these are two useful stitches.... Now how to describe what you've just taught us??? Thank you for taking the time to share this knowledge, I look forward to trying out these stitches in the future.
I'm glad you find this useful! I've put summaries of what the stitches do, and what modern makers often call them, to help out with remembering which one does what. :)
Yay for basting! I hate stitching garments full of pins, which sometimes mess up how the layers "play nicely" (or not!) Basting adds a step and a little time but prevents sooooo much frustration later.
Juul Thiijson (sorry, I’m probably butchering her name) did a video on the first stitch ua-cam.com/video/EW0W3L30Xg8/v-deo.html, and called it the English stitch there. It’s funny how some stitches gain different names as they travel to other areas. I thought I recognized the stitch, and went back to find what she had called it. Anyway, thank you for sharing. Very informative. Oh, and I absolutely love the fabric for your gown at the end. It is gorgeous! And your construction appears flawless.
Which to use when?
Garment ASSEMBLY, so attaching pieces together with a seam: the "nameless seaming stitch" (demonstrated first)
Garment FINISHING, so hemming the edge of a piece AND laying in the lining for the piece: ‘la point à rabattre sous main’, today often called ‘underhand hem/edge/topstitch (demonstrated second)
Do you use these stitches in YOUR work? I'd love to hear what you've been making using these historical techiques!
Thank you for this lovely tutorial. I had my mini sample and followed along. I must admit, I’m amazed at how easy and how quickly these stitches come togethr
Glad it was helpful!
Only just found your channel - thank you for excellent content and clear explanation.
There is more names! In PhD Pernilla Rasmussons thesis she has sereval different name for the first one, two german: "die englishe Nath" and "beidseitige Saumstiche", and one norwegian: "spilesøm". The technique is still used in traditional costume in both Norway and Sweden today.
For the second stitch I have some different namnes in swedish: Prickfållning (ONLY means that seam), but sometimes it is also called just "fållstygn" or "prickstickning" wich also can be used for similar stitches with but in other places of the garment. How old the terms is I am unsure of, but all of them is still in us in traditional clothing.
Thanks! Yes, just about every language *except English* has perfectly good names for both these techniques! 😂
Very instructive. And so good to see someone clarify a historical confusion. Thank you very much for this video!
You're welcome!
This explains a lot. I'd been looking for a tutorial for this stitch just recently but I couldn't find one because I couldn't remember it's name. Turns out it doesn't have one!
I'm glad you found it helpful! When reading modern-day instructions, I find it helps to know what people are calling these things today, even if it's not what may have been used back in the period. So I hope having those additional names help, too -- they're in the video description for easy reference in future, so you don't have to watch/listen to the whole video again to find them.
Thank you for the instruction. Both stitches are beautiful; the English stitch for garment assembly and the 'La pointe a rabattre sous main' (the point will be folded under hand) for garment finishing. Incidentally, the stitch you call 'basting stitch', I call 'tacking stitch' but I believe both are correct. Greetings from Bournemouth, England.
Hi Wallis, I'm glad you find this helpful. I find that "basting" is pretty readily understood on both sides of "the pond", but "tacking" does mean different things to people in different locations and from different sewing backgrounds.
(Dual UK/US national here.... 30 years in the US + 20 in the UK. ;) )
“La pointe à rabattre sous main” can be translated to: turn/tuck the point under the hand or very literally: the point to turn/tuck under the hand, for those interested and if it helps to understand the stitch better 😊 as a French person it always makes me smile when I see that some stitches still have french names
For those interested, and if it helps, here is how to pronounce it:
“La pwont a rabatr soo mon” -don’t pronounce the “n”s. Pointe and main are both pronounced similarly to the number 1 in French. And the “A”s in “la” “a” and “rabattre” are pronounced like the A in “apple” 😊
@@whatjoaniecreates Thank you! I thought about including that but find that personally the literal translation only confuses me. Hopefully that's only me!
Timesmith Dressmaking yes it can be a bit confusing. I always like to know what something means when it’s in an other language, I think it’s quite interesting 😊
Absolutely luscious. Hopefully you’ll be in the five figures soon. Because you’re producing truly amazing content.
Very kind of you! Sorry I didn't reply to this comment sooner!
I thought I clicked on a sewing video but apparently, it's a detective show! 😁Great content btw
😁 Historical sewing so often is! Glad you enjoyed it.
Most helpful! Thank you very much!
You're welcome!
The one with the French name is also referred to as the 18th century edge stitch which is certainly easier to say and remember--given it is on the edge and not used for seaming.
Yep! It's second on the list, for "modern speak". ☺️
@@TimesmithDressHistory I go with it because I simply cannot pronounce French. LOL. Plus since that stitch is always on the edge, it's easier to remember--it sort of describes the function.
@@kozykitty I agree. Though the first time I heard someone use "edge stitch", I didn't know what they meant and their reply was kind of "oh, you know, whatever you want to do there". I like a bit more precision, personally! But it definitely helps to know that some people saying "edge stitch" do mean *this* stitch! 😂
This is a fantastic video! I do have a small critique about the volume mixing. The music volume is a decent volume or it can be mixed a little louder, but I'd definitely mix your voice over much louder. As it is right now, it's on par with the volume ASMR artists use and I have to turn up my volume all the way just to be able to hear you normally.
Thank you for sharing this great information 😊
Thank you! and thank you for the feedback on the audio. I confess I'm still struggling to get to grips with the editing/mixing side of things and my own hearing loss doesn't help. I preview the final sequence in the software, then export to MP4 and listen again, and then so often it's slightly different after it's gone through UA-cam's upload process. :( I'll continue to work on this, as I absolutely do not want poor audio to compromise the communication of the content! I'm also working on sub-title solutions that are better than UA-cam's. I hope you can stick around and give me continued feedback on future videos so I can make sure it's improving!
I've got a head cannon for the first stitch: it's the same as the one Thérèse de Dillmont refers to as "antique or old-german seam" and Bertha Banner as "old german stitch". They apply it to joining two pieces by the selvedge, so it's just "skip one and prick through the other", but "skip one and prick through the others" is not a big stretch. In french, Dillmont calls it "surjet antique", so I guess it's where her first designation comes from, and the second may be more idiomatic in english. I suspect that she may have reverse - engineered it since she says: "Seams of this kind occur in old embroidered linen articles, where the stuff was too narrow to allow for any other."
For the second, the french source is Garsault's 1769 "L'Art du tailleur", published by the Academy of science in a series on trades, and not Diderot, who finished working on the Encyclopedia in 1765, and is not responsible for the borrowing of Garsault's work for the "supplement" in the following decade.
He describes two types of stitches "à rabattre" (hemming) and "à rentraire" (felling) : the first is just a running stitch through both fabric, when they are level (for example when they will be encased in a ribbon or, for felling a seam, with smaller, almost invisible stitches) called "sur la main" or on the hand, the second, that you showed in the video, "sous la main" or under the hand, when the main fabric is somewhat proud of the lining. He describes it being made from the outside of the garment and not from the lining side.
So I guess "underhand hem" is the most direct translation, but since we don't have a modern french equivalent, some of the meaning may have been lost to time.
Thank you so much for the excessive explanations!! I have been searching to find how to do the le point a rabattre sous la main for some time now. 😊
Also, just because I was curious, I put the French name in Google translate. Google said it means 'the point to be folded off at hand.' So although vague and probably because Google translate is not always up to snuff, it seems to be more a description.
Glad it was helpful!
Ooooh, these are two useful stitches.... Now how to describe what you've just taught us???
Thank you for taking the time to share this knowledge, I look forward to trying out these stitches in the future.
I'm glad you find this useful! I've put summaries of what the stitches do, and what modern makers often call them, to help out with remembering which one does what. :)
Super useful. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Music: Rondo Alla Turca by Mozart. Nice Choice! :)
Mozart is the best. ❤
I too am a fan of basting
Yay for basting! I hate stitching garments full of pins, which sometimes mess up how the layers "play nicely" (or not!) Basting adds a step and a little time but prevents sooooo much frustration later.
Juul Thiijson (sorry, I’m probably butchering her name) did a video on the first stitch ua-cam.com/video/EW0W3L30Xg8/v-deo.html, and called it the English stitch there. It’s funny how some stitches gain different names as they travel to other areas. I thought I recognized the stitch, and went back to find what she had called it. Anyway, thank you for sharing. Very informative. Oh, and I absolutely love the fabric for your gown at the end. It is gorgeous! And your construction appears flawless.
Yes, English stitch seems to now be the most commonly used name , after American Duchess dubbed it that in their book!
And thank you for your kind words about my Italian gown at the end! 😍