The distressed black looked interesting.Have to try that.Experimented with Vinergaroon hoping to get that look.Came out black as night.Cheaper than dye but not the desired outcome.Thanx Chuck.Keep 'em comin'.
Hi Chuck. Great ideas, thanks. An idea for a new video if you haven’t already covered it: how to support work for stitching when it is a large item which doesn’t fit into a stitching pony, and isn’t flat. Like the floppy sides of a large bag in semi-thick leather which needs a lot of support, but isn’t stiff enough to support itself. Guess which project I’m in the middle of right now?!
As a beginner with only 3 colors of dye, I first tried this to get a little more variety of colors/tones and was pleased with the results. I've also done this with the Anglius colors using rubbing alcohol with success. Their purple is very deep and I wanted something lighter. Just be sure you use the correct type of reducer for the dye.
Hey, I know this was a year ago, but I’m just about to do the exact same thing trying to get a lighter purple from the Angelus. I can play around with it but any tips from your experience would be great! What did you find worked well?
Thanks, Chuck, for another great, informative video. I had actually not known the reducer exists until just now. You definitely saved me a lot of time and effort by showing the effects of thinning the dye. Going to have to look into this for some projects. I can see how reduction of pigment density really does result in "new" colors.
I like to use 3 levels of dyes on the same flat surface, using the same original color (no dilute in center, 50% in first outer ring, then 80% on extreme outer ring. I merges well and doesn't look like a "target". It gives your project a "Wait,... what?" look. Oxblood, yellow and green work well. Oh! and I also use 90% Isopropol alcohol to thin (no need to vent). Works well but dries the leather a tad bit more. When using highly thinned dyes, you'll need 1 additional sweep of olive oil or neetsfoot oil afterwards. No problems thereafter.
I use 99% Isopropanol alcohol to dilute my Pro dye, works great. I get about the same results you have there. Plus I mix colors a lot. The black tends to bleed through the leather, I have heard diluting it a bit can help with that. I haven't tried that yet.
Great educational video. Can you do another leather element segment and top coat half of each billet for a side by side comparison between the different percentages of dilution and with / without top coat? Thank you Chuck.
Hate to do this to ya because you sell the stuff, but in a pinch: Fiebings Dye Reducer SDS says it is 85-90% ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and remainder isopropyl alcohol (probably just to poison the ethanol so it's legal to sell). Using denatured alcohol should work very similarly and is more available than the fiebings reducer.
Yeah, I looked up the EU Security Data Sheet for the reducer and came to the same conclusion. The isopropyl-alcohol does, on a chemical level concerning dilution of colour, not very much. If one wants, isopropyl-alcohol is quite readily available (it's the stuff most sanitisers are made out) and mixes effortlessly with denatured alcohol. But I think pure denatured alcohol works the same. And even the smell (in germany we call it "Brennspiritus") goes away after a short while. Just beware if you live in Great Britain: Your denatured alcohol is coloured purple. I have no idea if it affects the final colour.
I usually reduce my brown dye. I find that if I don't, it goes on darker than I want it to. I thin it about 50/50, and add it in layers until I get the desired color.
If searching UA-cam “how to build Chesterfield sofa” there’ll be many different manufacturers applying a solution to lighten the upper layer of the leather sofa so the crevices dye is darker than the upper layer - giving the sofa the classic antique Chesterfield touch. Do you know exactly what these manufacturers are applying? Could it be just alcohol or something stronger like a dye reducer? Seems even Google can’t provide a clear answer but these manufacturers appear to all be using the same solution as this final touch to create the beautiful shading effect with the dye.
I'm up to the same notion for a pair of shoes I am making - client wants grey. I am planning to use Angelus black reduced with Angelus neutral - possibly airbrushing to get a lighter coat and color - hope it works!!
this experiment eliminates couple mistakes for us. thank you, chuck!
The BEST leather learning videos out there.....
Thanks Chuck.. Your 2nd to none my friend...
Thank you so much!
The distressed black looked interesting.Have to try that.Experimented with Vinergaroon hoping to get that look.Came out black as night.Cheaper than dye but not the desired outcome.Thanx Chuck.Keep 'em comin'.
Hi Chuck. Great ideas, thanks. An idea for a new video if you haven’t already covered it: how to support work for stitching when it is a large item which doesn’t fit into a stitching pony, and isn’t flat. Like the floppy sides of a large bag in semi-thick leather which needs a lot of support, but isn’t stiff enough to support itself. Guess which project I’m in the middle of right now?!
These are all great instructional videos- much appreciated!
As a beginner with only 3 colors of dye, I first tried this to get a little more variety of colors/tones and was pleased with the results. I've also done this with the Anglius colors using rubbing alcohol with success. Their purple is very deep and I wanted something lighter. Just be sure you use the correct type of reducer for the dye.
Hey, I know this was a year ago, but I’m just about to do the exact same thing trying to get a lighter purple from the Angelus. I can play around with it but any tips from your experience would be great! What did you find worked well?
Good video. God bless. From Glenn CATT in Massachusetts.
Thanks, Chuck, for another great, informative video. I had actually not known the reducer exists until just now. You definitely saved me a lot of time and effort by showing the effects of thinning the dye. Going to have to look into this for some projects. I can see how reduction of pigment density really does result in "new" colors.
Awesome video and advice as always.
Thanks, Chuck!
I like to use 3 levels of dyes on the same flat surface, using the same original color (no dilute in center, 50% in first outer ring, then 80% on extreme outer ring. I merges well and doesn't look like a "target". It gives your project a "Wait,... what?" look. Oxblood, yellow and green work well.
Oh! and I also use 90% Isopropol alcohol to thin (no need to vent). Works well but dries the leather a tad bit more. When using highly thinned dyes, you'll need 1 additional sweep of olive oil or neetsfoot oil afterwards. No problems thereafter.
Tbh, I haven't thought about thinning my dye yet, it seems to be worth to give it a shot though. 👍🏻
I use 99% Isopropanol alcohol to dilute my Pro dye, works great. I get about the same results you have there. Plus I mix colors a lot. The black tends to bleed through the leather, I have heard diluting it a bit can help with that. I haven't tried that yet.
Great educational video. Can you do another leather element segment and top coat half of each billet for a side by side comparison between the different percentages of dilution and with / without top coat?
Thank you Chuck.
Yes, please. I would really like to see how a top coat affects the final color.
Hate to do this to ya because you sell the stuff, but in a pinch:
Fiebings Dye Reducer SDS says it is 85-90% ethyl alcohol (ethanol) and remainder isopropyl alcohol (probably just to poison the ethanol so it's legal to sell).
Using denatured alcohol should work very similarly and is more available than the fiebings reducer.
Yeah, I looked up the EU Security Data Sheet for the reducer and came to the same conclusion. The isopropyl-alcohol does, on a chemical level concerning dilution of colour, not very much. If one wants, isopropyl-alcohol is quite readily available (it's the stuff most sanitisers are made out) and mixes effortlessly with denatured alcohol.
But I think pure denatured alcohol works the same. And even the smell (in germany we call it "Brennspiritus") goes away after a short while.
Just beware if you live in Great Britain: Your denatured alcohol is coloured purple. I have no idea if it affects the final colour.
I usually reduce my brown dye. I find that if I don't, it goes on darker than I want it to. I thin it about 50/50, and add it in layers until I get the desired color.
Chuck this is good information as always, but how do i get an even coverage with straight black. Mine always looks splotchy and uneven.
Does leather shrink when it's wet with dye? Thanks.
If searching UA-cam “how to build Chesterfield sofa” there’ll be many different manufacturers applying a solution to lighten the upper layer of the leather sofa so the crevices dye is darker than the upper layer - giving the sofa the classic antique Chesterfield touch.
Do you know exactly what these manufacturers are applying? Could it be just alcohol or something stronger like a dye reducer? Seems even Google can’t provide a clear answer but these manufacturers appear to all be using the same solution as this final touch to create the beautiful shading effect with the dye.
It looks like it is called Rub-Off
How can i get a good black cherry color on my leather
I read somewhere mixing dye with neatsfoot oil. Has anybody tried that? I wonder what it does especially compared to the dye reducer.
Is there any natural way, or even chemicals than can eliminate humidity stain and smell on a pair of boots? Please help!
I’m trying to get a grey color for a knife sheath, don’t know if diluting it will do the trick…any help?
I'm up to the same notion for a pair of shoes I am making - client wants grey. I am planning to use Angelus black reduced with Angelus neutral - possibly airbrushing to get a lighter coat and color - hope it works!!
Which pro oil dye color is closest to a caramel color?
Light Brown or Saddle Tan would be the closest to camel.
No matter what I do tan dye comes out dark dark brown on veg tan.