The tip to test the source chemistry is a good one ! With the breather bag info., drip method, and anti-stress techniques you have given us much better odds of successful transport. Thanks, Jim
Awesome video Chris! I have the same breather bags. Been surfing channels. Getting info on how to use and ship fish with these bags. Thanks to your channel I now have the info I need. Thanks for the info. New sub.
Interesting so the pressure only drops outside of the bag causing it to inflate when it goes up in the air?! That's good to know. I've been packing my bags; so far no complaints about leaking. Thanks.
the bags don't inflate or deflate. you just fill the bags with water, no air. the walls of the bags are semi permeable allowing molecules smaller than water to pass through thereby providing gas exchange
Can you please explain what "stray ammonia" is? I know there might be ammonia in a shipping bag but why would it only become harmful when you add clean filtered water? Now if the pH in the bag was super low and you had ammonium in there, I would imagine you're saying the ammonium would turn to ammonia. I wouldn't know if that's true or not but I would definitely keep that in consideration since my water is very alkaline. But if the water in the bag is already high in pH that means the ammonia is already as harmful as it's going to get. After hearing your 2nd explanation I think maybe that is what you meant: If the bag pH is below 6, and you drip-acclimating raises it above 6 it can cause nitrogen to convert to the ammonia form. However, you *have* to still acclimate. So what I do is add a few drops of Seachem Prime, API Ammo Lock, or Imagitarium Ammonia Neutralizer before I start the drip process. Problem solved.
stray ammonia radicals are present and increase as the fish excrete and respirate, so the longer they are in the bag more ammonia present. Having shipped fish worldwide theres lots of products used to bind, alter and convert the ammonia during shipping. several products also often added to the shipping water change the colour of the water so testing via common methods are not feasible. All fish have a level of tolerance some being more sensitive than others. The real concern comes when one doesn't know their ph and hardness of their aquarium water. Ammonia toxicity levels are far greater in neutral base Ph versus in an alkaline environment that same level of ammonia can quickly be lethal. Hope this clears it up a bit. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed it. Many people say that the ammonia can be released as soon as opening the bags. Thus the argument long drip times could also be detrimental. I always try to match the water in my hospital tank to conditions reported by the supplier. Then after temp match I plop n drop into the hospital tank most species. Obviously shrimp and very sensitive fish I pretty much follow your suggestion of pouring into a container and using drip irrigation adjustable valve to set up my drip time. Great presentation!
I honestly do not know if they manufacture them anymore. I’ve resorted to ordering online from sources over seas. Not the exact Same Product but I’ve had very little issues otherwise
Yes that’s the same ones I’ve used. Not the same but no real issues other than a few leakers. I try to answer every comment if I can. I’m honoured to have people watch my videos
Thank you for watching. Not poly fill but poly filter. It’s a brand name of a product that was originally designed for kidney dialysis machines. Truly a wonderful product. www.amazon.com/Poly-Bio-Marine-Poly-Filter-Aquarium-3-pack/dp/B00HYN8602 Here’s a link to what it is. Shop around. I generally get the smaller one for about $15- each and cut into extremely small pieces when shipping. Cheers!
@@themadaquarist I wish I had a guy like you around with all your knowledge and experience. For a young guy who hasn't been in the hobby all that long, its invaluable. Take care!
I cheat and squirt some Ammo-lock in the container before I start the drip, so I don't have to worry about the ammonia shifting to the unionized form due to pH. BUT sensitive species still require that slow drip because of differences in TDS/hardnesses. I'm a very big fan of the Polyfilter as well, it's always a relief to see that in the bag when fish arrive
entertaining video man. Thanks for the great explinations.
Very kind thank you
Good idea thanks🙏
Thank you
The tip to test the source chemistry is a good one ! With the breather bag info., drip method, and anti-stress techniques you have given us much better odds of successful transport. Thanks, Jim
Thank you for the support Jim
Awesome video Chris! I have the same breather bags. Been surfing channels. Getting info on how to use and ship fish with these bags. Thanks to your channel I now have the info I need. Thanks for the info. New sub.
Im honored to have you my friend. Thank you very much for the kind words.
Interesting so the pressure only drops outside of the bag causing it to inflate when it goes up in the air?! That's good to know. I've been packing my bags; so far no complaints about leaking. Thanks.
the bags don't inflate or deflate. you just fill the bags with water, no air. the walls of the bags are semi permeable allowing molecules smaller than water to pass through thereby providing gas exchange
Can you please explain what "stray ammonia" is? I know there might be ammonia in a shipping bag but why would it only become harmful when you add clean filtered water? Now if the pH in the bag was super low and you had ammonium in there, I would imagine you're saying the ammonium would turn to ammonia. I wouldn't know if that's true or not but I would definitely keep that in consideration since my water is very alkaline. But if the water in the bag is already high in pH that means the ammonia is already as harmful as it's going to get. After hearing your 2nd explanation I think maybe that is what you meant: If the bag pH is below 6, and you drip-acclimating raises it above 6 it can cause nitrogen to convert to the ammonia form. However, you *have* to still acclimate. So what I do is add a few drops of Seachem Prime, API Ammo Lock, or Imagitarium Ammonia Neutralizer before I start the drip process. Problem solved.
stray ammonia radicals are present and increase as the fish excrete and respirate, so the longer they are in the bag more ammonia present. Having shipped fish worldwide theres lots of products used to bind, alter and convert the ammonia during shipping. several products also often added to the shipping water change the colour of the water so testing via common methods are not feasible.
All fish have a level of tolerance some being more sensitive than others.
The real concern comes when one doesn't know their ph and hardness of their aquarium water.
Ammonia toxicity levels are far greater in neutral base Ph versus in an alkaline environment that same level of ammonia can quickly be lethal.
Hope this clears it up a bit. Thanks for watching
Hi Chris - What's the biggest cichlid you'd transport in a breather bag? I'd think most 2-3"-ers would be fine.
I’d agree however depending also on type of fish. I don’t know if I’d be comfortable transporting even a one inch Cory cat in a breather bag.
@@themadaquarist Agreed!
Can the breather bags be double bagged? Will the oxygen transfer work the same way?
No they will
Smother if doubled
Enjoyed it. Many people say that the ammonia can be released as soon as opening the bags. Thus the argument long drip times could also be detrimental. I always try to match the water in my hospital tank to conditions reported by the supplier. Then after temp match I plop n drop into the hospital tank most species. Obviously shrimp and very sensitive fish I pretty much follow your suggestion of pouring into a container and using drip irrigation adjustable valve to set up my drip time. Great presentation!
Thank you kindly
@' The Mad Aquarist 'Hi, any link to order Kordon bags please? They are hard to find these days. Thanks.
I honestly do not know if they manufacture them anymore. I’ve resorted to ordering online from sources over seas. Not the exact
Same
Product but I’ve had very little issues otherwise
@@themadaquarist Yes me too, I used the generics Longlife but the Kordons were larger, much more practical for big fish. Thank you for your reply.
Yes that’s the same ones I’ve used. Not the same but no real issues other than a few leakers.
I try to answer every comment if I can.
I’m honoured to have people watch my videos
Cool video!
thank you my friend
That's a new concept. When I want my bags to breathe, I use Calvin Kline.
lol hows that working out for you?
Just standard poly fill for the absorption? Do you have a link nor picture of what you use by chance?
Thank you for sharing your experiences!
Thank you for watching.
Not poly fill but poly filter. It’s a brand name of a product that was originally designed for kidney dialysis machines. Truly a wonderful product.
www.amazon.com/Poly-Bio-Marine-Poly-Filter-Aquarium-3-pack/dp/B00HYN8602
Here’s a link to what it is. Shop around. I generally get the smaller one for about $15- each and cut into extremely small pieces when shipping.
Cheers!
@@themadaquarist thank you very much!
Thank you my friend for watching and supporting
@@themadaquarist I wish I had a guy like you around with all your knowledge and experience. For a young guy who hasn't been in the hobby all that long, its invaluable. Take care!
Heat packs also compete for oxygen, which would be terrible for use with breather bags in a relatively closed box
I cheat and squirt some Ammo-lock in the container before I start the drip, so I don't have to worry about the ammonia shifting to the unionized form due to pH. BUT sensitive species still require that slow drip because of differences in TDS/hardnesses. I'm a very big fan of the Polyfilter as well, it's always a relief to see that in the bag when fish arrive
Polyfilter and breather bags travel with me everywhere
Tubas?
Jeez Biggsy, Tattoos , dry Botanicals and little Baggies. Remind me not to travel with you.
For the win!