I used to cut the paper like that intill my dad taught me to use sand paper , because its wet you shapes around and freys the paper so you still have the texture of the paper on the corner. Saves loads of time! I love your work you guys are Brilliant!
@@iancrampsie4541 totally agree, wouldn't use any other, I use the 18mm and the 9mm with the black ultra sharp blade. I also use the Olfa BTC 1 scraper which is useful too.
Easy!!! ahahah you make it look easy but i think not!! This may seem a strange comment but when you were doing the arch edges it reminded me of sewing/tailoring a sleeve into a garment... Looking amazing cant wait to see next step TFS
Can I please have a bit of advice. My customer stripped off her own old wall paper and wants me to paint her room again, that’s fine but I was really hoping that underneath the wall would be ok to paint. It is not and I now have to line the whole room with lining paper then paint. I was looking on Dulux website at paper. Can you please tell me the difference between 800, 1000, 1500? Is it just like sandpaper corse to fine ie 800 is rougher. What grade do I need just to paint over it with 2 coats of paint? Thank you
really great video again ! may i ask after you have filled and sanded a wall prior to papering do you treat the walls with anything? I'm concerned that the untreated filler is too porous that may affect adhesion of new lining paper going up? thanks for any help
Hi .... I have an upstairs living room with exposed beams and some sort of lining paper in between the joists ( this is all exposed ) I’m presuming 30 years ago when the house went up this looked quite smart when it had a type of egg shell finish applied . - Now we have some horizontal “ cracks / breaks running in the paper the length of the room ......any suggestions on a) what causes this and b) what would you do
Hi, i have skirtings painted with oil base gloss and its yellowing again. I want to paint with water base gloss. Any recommendations for which one in pure while, brilliant white? Do i have to sand back to bare wood or can i use primer/ undercoat over existing if i key it?
I would key it the use b.i.n primer or another zinsser product, that the will allow your to switch from an oil based system to a waterbased system, I like johnsons waterbased satin or bedec its nice to use.
Nice job again, genuine question from a competent DIYer, isn't all lining paper paintable? I've been hanging it and painting it for years and didn't realise that. I've not had any issues but maybe I've just been lucky and bought the right grade?
Hey chaps - I'm in a bit of a sticky spot and wonder if you can help with any advice. My client from JAnuary had to postpone as her whole house got Covid, and we're on for the end of next week. My client has bought fabric and had it professionally backed with paper. The rolls are 150cms wide, and the paper is wider than the fabric by 5cms each side. I spoke to the man who did the backing. He says that decorators he's spoken to paste the wall and hang a sheet on day one, mark the edges on the wall with a pencil, and measure the shrinkage after a day. Then hang the rest with an overlap and when it's dry they double cut and stick the edges down. Ever heard of this process? Perhaps you have a video that I haven't watched.. Also, the room has been lined and painted previously and is in good condition. Would you cross line the walls with fresh lining first, to help prevent shrinkage? I've only just read about using lining paper to do this, so thought I'd ask!
Years back paper would come with edges needing trimming. And you can get a special tool that trims the paper my dad has one . Personally I would trim and workout a soaking time and hang like wallpaper. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Excellent, Thanks. I guess There's no way on earth to cut a factory type seam using a knife and straight edge though, is there? I'll need 3 pasting tables side by side to hold the paper, and I have a good straight edge on its way but I was just assuming I'd have to double cut every seam, you know, overlap and then cut through both.. I can't see how I can get an edge that will butt all down the drop otherwise..
I'd say yes it gives you more time to position the paper and also ensures the paste doesn't dry out too quickly! Also helps to stick! Like a 2 part system.
There isnt much difference In the cost just to have something like that reskimmed. By the time you have prepped the walls,lined them etc. You know what I mean.
Not really you lose the edge on all the woodwork and all the cracks still need fixing. Always best to take off to the brick and then re plaster. you know what I mean..
I used to cut the paper like that intill my dad taught me to use sand paper , because its wet you shapes around and freys the paper so you still have the texture of the paper on the corner. Saves loads of time!
I love your work you guys are Brilliant!
Nice video Great job stay safe 🇬🇧👍
Thanks.
Just a joy to watch as always, never gets boring.. well done bud
Thank you.
Great work and music 👍🏻
Thank you.
A joy to behold - glad to see you rocking an Olfa knife!
Sorry to disappoint but its not an Olfa knife, I believe its a Stanley
@@marcuschambers62 Ah, Ok - I stand corrected.
At least I used a blade this time. Thanks
Olfa are the bees knees! I have 2 on the go at all times very rarely does it rip the paper.
@@iancrampsie4541 totally agree, wouldn't use any other, I use the 18mm and the 9mm with the black ultra sharp blade. I also use the Olfa BTC 1 scraper which is useful too.
Nice work so nice to se a fellow tradesman at work its not as easy as it looks wish i had a fiver for every yard of lining paper iv hung .
You make it look so easy, top work as usual.
Thank you.
Now that's how it's done great video
A Master Craftsman at his work 👏👏
Top man top job as per usual, great work. 👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you.
Nice job 👍
Yet again another great video great tips mate 👍
Thank you.
I would skim that pretty rapid, but nice work mate 👍
Thanks.
Easy!!! ahahah you make it look easy but i think not!! This may seem a strange comment but when you were doing the arch edges it reminded me of sewing/tailoring a sleeve into a garment... Looking amazing cant wait to see next step TFS
Thank you glad you enjoy.
Nice one mush 👌
Cheers mate.
brill vid u make it look so easy
Thank you.
Can I please have a bit of advice. My customer stripped off her own old wall paper and wants me to paint her room again, that’s fine but I was really hoping that underneath the wall would be ok to paint. It is not and I now have to line the whole room with lining paper then paint. I was
looking on Dulux website at paper. Can you please tell me the difference between 800, 1000, 1500? Is it just like sandpaper corse to fine ie 800 is rougher. What grade do I need just to paint over it with 2 coats of paint? Thank you
really great video again ! may i ask after you have filled and sanded a wall prior to papering do you treat the walls with anything? I'm concerned that the untreated filler is too porous that may affect adhesion of new lining paper going up? thanks for any help
Thank you.. we use diluted PVA
Hi .... I have an upstairs living room with exposed beams and some sort of lining paper in between the joists ( this is all exposed ) I’m presuming 30 years ago when the house went up this looked quite smart when it had a type of egg shell finish applied . - Now we have some horizontal “ cracks / breaks running in the paper the length of the room ......any suggestions on a) what causes this and b) what would you do
Without looking it's difficult to say... but we've loads of videos on how to fix cracks.. ceilings as well.
@@PaintingandDecorating any chance of sending two images to comment?
@@adrianrichards247 sorry not at the minute but I'm sure are videos will help you solve the problem.
Hi, i have skirtings painted with oil base gloss and its yellowing again. I want to paint with water base gloss. Any recommendations for which one in pure while, brilliant white?
Do i have to sand back to bare wood or can i use primer/ undercoat over existing if i key it?
I would key it the use b.i.n primer or another zinsser product, that the will allow your to switch from an oil based system to a waterbased system, I like johnsons waterbased satin or bedec its nice to use.
@@iancrampsie4541 thanks Ian, ill look into johnsons, iv some BIN left over from making a wardrobe from MDF
Nice job again, genuine question from a competent DIYer, isn't all lining paper paintable? I've been hanging it and painting it for years and didn't realise that. I've not had any issues but maybe I've just been lucky and bought the right grade?
Hey chaps - I'm in a bit of a sticky spot and wonder if you can help with any advice. My client from JAnuary had to postpone as her whole house got Covid, and we're on for the end of next week.
My client has bought fabric and had it professionally backed with paper. The rolls are 150cms wide, and the paper is wider than the fabric by 5cms each side.
I spoke to the man who did the backing. He says that decorators he's spoken to paste the wall and hang a sheet on day one, mark the edges on the wall with a pencil, and measure the shrinkage after a day. Then hang the rest with an overlap and when it's dry they double cut and stick the edges down. Ever heard of this process? Perhaps you have a video that I haven't watched..
Also, the room has been lined and painted previously and is in good condition. Would you cross line the walls with fresh lining first, to help prevent shrinkage? I've only just read about using lining paper to do this, so thought I'd ask!
Years back paper would come with edges needing trimming. And you can get a special tool that trims the paper my dad has one . Personally I would trim and workout a soaking time and hang like wallpaper. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Excellent, Thanks. I guess There's no way on earth to cut a factory type seam using a knife and straight edge though, is there? I'll need 3 pasting tables side by side to hold the paper, and I have a good straight edge on its way but I was just assuming I'd have to double cut every seam, you know, overlap and then cut through both.. I can't see how I can get an edge that will butt all down the drop otherwise..
Hi. Did you size the walls first and, if so, what did you use?
We use diluted PVA to seal the plaster. Thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating Do you need to size if papering over an already painted surface?
I'd say yes it gives you more time to position the paper and also ensures the paste doesn't dry out too quickly! Also helps to stick! Like a 2 part system.
@@iancrampsie4541 Cheers 👍
@@PaintingandDecorating do you use pva for painted walls aswell?
There isnt much difference In the cost just to have something like that reskimmed. By the time you have prepped the walls,lined them etc. You know what I mean.
Not really you lose the edge on all the woodwork and all the cracks still need fixing. Always best to take off to the brick and then re plaster. you know what I mean..
@@PaintingandDecorating As a fellow decorator, I just love this reply. It's always about the detail folks...
Yeah, easy for you haha!