I was a Toyota tech for years and I have done a lot of head gasket recalls on there V6 truck engines. The manual recommends replacing the head bolts because they claim head bolt stretch but when we did the recalls Toyota said no it's ok just use the old head bolts. and so we did and never had any problems.
seems like that counter top would have been a bit flatter, but the results were the same! Thank you for the video, finding new head bolts isn't always possible
I think that if you got new bolts you would find differences between each one. I would not recommend your theory to NASA when they rebuild each space shuttle.
The distinction between reuse or replace is much simpler - torque to yield or not. The former - replace. Aluminum daily driver heads? Not worth a single second of sleep. Toss them back in. remember that SAE torque specs are "wet", step 'em 3 times to the OEM manual's pattern. Done.
Better off replacing and playing it safe than to gamble with a job that takes hours to do. Aluminum and cast blocks have different expansion rates you need the clamping force of the new bolts as well as the elasticity for the expansion rate and better safe than sorry but anyway I know the video is old I hope you got lucky
What do they say about always starting with a good foundation, I seriously doubt using a wood cutting board was a smart way to start, wood absorbs moisture, warps and swells , especially a butcher block with different pieces of wood glued together that absorb moisture differently, I would at least have used a piece of glass at the minimum to set the bolts on. You have to start with a straight edge on one end to compare the bolts at the other end with a straight edge, also the surface of the heads on the bolts can make them not set straight, buy some machinist calipers if you want to measure differences in length. I thought I was going to learn something here, but all I learned is when you are dealing with tolerances, you do not use a cutting board and a cheap plastic level as machinist tools, and 10 thousandths off are you kidding, they looked to be more like a 32nd of an inch or a 1/8 th off, but then who knows when you use a cutting board as your guide. At least plane the thing before you use it for a machine tool.
That's not an engineering examination! Trying to tell is a bolt is straight resting it on its head is stupid! Using a surface which may not be flat (bolts are often cold headed) and then trying to determine squareness over that length is just plain wrong. Go spend the $250 and have done with it...
Why would you tear it down if it ran perfectly???? I could understand doing timing belt and water pump on a high mileage vehicle but why TF would you take the head off for fun? Were you board? Lol
Sorry, but I'm not on board with your testing method. There are flaws in this method. First problem is that you are introducing inaccuracy from the head of the bolt. The head of the bolt doesn't figure into the calculation of stretch. Secondly, the difference can not be scene with the eye. You need to use precision measuring tools. Third reason, I am always looking for a way to save a buck. But this way could have a very heavy price if it produces a failure far exceeding the cost of these bolts. You would be looking at a new motor. Perhaps a little research before tearing down the motor. Would have made you reconsider your decision on this project. Usually, this is not optional. If you need to go here. The best advice is to not take any shortcuts. Do what you can to do it right the first time. These parts will cost far less than a new vehicle if this engine fails after the repair.
I like that plan. Haha. Actually on one of those hotrod t.v crap shows the guy said the OEM uses the least amount of torque for a safe install. Which tells me there's more torque to be had. So I'm going to reuse my old ones and instead of 90 degrees I'm going 95. Haha. one main thing is the blocks nowadays are aluminum. I seen a guy torque his head... Then use a torch to heat the head before installing the can so he could retorque. I believe that's more important than anything else. If I'm not mistakien it was a lambo head. So yeah I'm doing dat deyar.
For the sake of it id just buy new, you're going to all that trouble to change the head gasket. Yet you consider using old bolts, you can only torque one time as they do stretch! You will not get the original clamping force from a 2nd time used bolt, period. Materials weaken and that's basic knowledge. Even one of those bolts weaken it's going to result in a head gasket failure, if not right away a couple hundred miles down the line at best. Anybody considering using used bolts on a cylinder head is absolutely insane. If you're rebuilding an engine for it to last then how can you expect it to when you cut corners on one crucial component in the build.
The workshop manuals for the Mazda Skyactiv and Rover K series both instruct to reuse head bolts if the stretch is within limits.
I was a Toyota tech for years and I have done a lot of head gasket recalls on there V6 truck engines. The manual recommends replacing the head bolts because they claim head bolt stretch but when we did the recalls Toyota said no it's ok just use the old head bolts. and so we did and never had any problems.
Typical nothing matters when money is flying out of the corporate account
Thank you man. I need this becouse I was about to use my old head bolts
seems like that counter top would have been a bit flatter, but the results were the same!
Thank you for the video, finding new head bolts isn't always possible
Kraken Fodder how would you know before they were new the bolts are made like that??
The problem is not the bolt.It is the aluminum block.If they torque to specs your good!
Awesome I love videos like this thank you
Who does a head gasket just for the hell of it
Me amigo iam a new student from India you mala kalla
I think that if you got new bolts you would find differences between each one. I would not recommend your theory to NASA when they rebuild each space shuttle.
hahahaha
The distinction between reuse or replace is much simpler - torque to yield or not. The former -
replace. Aluminum daily driver heads? Not worth a single second of sleep. Toss them back in. remember that SAE torque specs are "wet", step 'em 3 times to the OEM manual's pattern. Done.
Better off replacing and playing it safe than to gamble with a job that takes hours to do. Aluminum and cast blocks have different expansion rates you need the clamping force of the new bolts as well as the elasticity for the expansion rate and better safe than sorry but anyway I know the video is old I hope you got lucky
What do they say about always starting with a good foundation, I seriously doubt using a wood cutting board was a smart way to start, wood absorbs moisture, warps and swells , especially a butcher block with different pieces of wood glued together that absorb moisture differently, I would at least have used a piece of glass at the minimum to set the bolts on. You have to start with a straight edge on one end to compare the bolts at the other end with a straight edge, also the surface of the heads on the bolts can make them not set straight, buy some machinist calipers if you want to measure differences in length. I thought I was going to learn something here, but all I learned is when you are dealing with tolerances, you do not use a cutting board and a cheap plastic level as machinist tools, and 10 thousandths off are you kidding, they looked to be more like a 32nd of an inch or a 1/8 th off, but then who knows when you use a cutting board as your guide. At least plane the thing before you use it for a machine tool.
Your assuming that the original factory bolts were perfect, they were all the same length and perefctly straight. Hell no.
That's not an engineering examination! Trying to tell is a bolt is straight resting it on its head is stupid! Using a surface which may not be flat (bolts are often cold headed) and then trying to determine squareness over that length is just plain wrong. Go spend the $250 and have done with it...
Nothing wrong with the car. Let me fix it haha
wise man once said "Don't fix it if it ain't broke."
Why would you tear it down if it ran perfectly???? I could understand doing timing belt and water pump on a high mileage vehicle but why TF would you take the head off for fun? Were you board? Lol
Sorry, but I'm not on board with your testing method. There are flaws in this method. First problem is that you are introducing inaccuracy from the head of the bolt. The head of the
bolt doesn't figure into the calculation of stretch. Secondly, the difference can not be scene with the eye. You need to use precision measuring tools. Third reason, I am always
looking for a way to save a buck. But this way could have a very heavy price if it produces a failure far exceeding the cost of these bolts. You would be looking at a new motor.
Perhaps a little research before tearing down the motor. Would have made you reconsider your decision on this project. Usually, this is not optional. If you need to go here. The
best advice is to not take any shortcuts. Do what you can to do it right the first time. These parts will cost far less than a new vehicle if this engine fails after the repair.
Great video
Where do you want to spend that much money, shit you can buy them a hell of a lot cheaper on amazon or even an automotive store
thats it, rely on a wood cutting board. Come on man, thats a joke right?
Easiest way to test them is to install and torque, if one breaks pull them and buy new, if they dont break...dont fix them!
That's a terrible plan lol
I like that plan. Haha. Actually on one of those hotrod t.v crap shows the guy said the OEM uses the least amount of torque for a safe install. Which tells me there's more torque to be had. So I'm going to reuse my old ones and instead of 90 degrees I'm going 95. Haha. one main thing is the blocks nowadays are aluminum. I seen a guy torque his head... Then use a torch to heat the head before installing the can so he could retorque. I believe that's more important than anything else. If I'm not mistakien it was a lambo head. So yeah I'm doing dat deyar.
For the sake of it id just buy new, you're going to all that trouble to change the head gasket. Yet you consider using old bolts, you can only torque one time as they do stretch! You will not get the original clamping force from a 2nd time used bolt, period. Materials weaken and that's basic knowledge. Even one of those bolts weaken it's going to result in a head gasket failure, if not right away a couple hundred miles down the line at best.
Anybody considering using used bolts on a cylinder head is absolutely insane. If you're rebuilding an engine for it to last then how can you expect it to when you cut corners on one crucial component in the build.
Terrible test