I try this technique with my crown using sprintray ceremic crown material and it looks pretty nice. Right out of the printer and no polishing. Great technique! Thanks.
nice! that‘s pretty much exactly my procedure I came up with. I use little UV-blocking nail polish glass bottles that have a little brush inside on their cap for the resin "glaze“. It makes the workflow a bit quicker. You can just store a bunch of these with different resins inside them and don’t worry about accidently curing some of them. If you need one just shake it a bit, screw it open and you already have a soaked brush in your hands thats never been contaminated with a different resin nor does it ever need cleaning.
Curious if you have any recommendations on how to design supports on the buccal surface of the splint vs the AI designed ones generated by sprint ray? What density of supports/how far apart can they be? I’d love to eliminate supports on the occlusal surface. Thanks for the video - super helpful.
Did you polish off the support nibs? It looks like you broke them off cleanly. I print using Keystone Soft and always need to polish after cutting off the supports.
So Dr. Wally if you still have nubs from the supports when you would you smooth those? Also the step when you spray with alcohol and dry is that in place of placing of putting it in the wash unit?
After painting the glaze coat, could you skip that first "pre-curing" step and go straight from painting the glaze on and into the glycerin for a full cure cycle?
Sometimes I have little bubbles on the inner surface of the nightguard. What do I do wrong? Thanks for your help, awesome content and best wishes from Germany!
Wow. You are perfectly capable of doing a pubmed search and downloading the literature and reading it. I am not your personal library. It is well known that increasing cure times increases color stability, hardness, flexural strength, biocompatibility and wear resistance. Have you been living under a rock? Here are a few you should read that look at extra long curing times for a variety of materials: Al-Dulaijan YA, Alsulaimi L, Alotaibi R, Alboainain A, Alalawi H, Alshehri S, Khan SQ, Alsaloum M, AlRumaih HS, Alhumaidan AA, Gad MM. Comparative Evaluation of Surface Roughness and Hardness of 3D Printed Resins. Materials (Basel). 2022 Oct 1;15(19):6822. doi: 10.3390/ma15196822. PMID: 36234163; PMCID: PMC9571863. Lee EH, Ahn JS, Lim YJ, Kwon HB, Kim MJ. Effect of post-curing time on the color stability and related properties of a tooth-colored 3D-printed resin material. J Mech Behav Biomed Mater. 2022 Feb;126:104993. doi: 10.1016/j.jmbbm.2021.104993. Epub 2021 Nov 24. PMID: 34871954. Kim D, Shim JS, Lee D, Shin SH, Nam NE, Park KH, Shim JS, Kim JE. Effects of Post-Curing Time on the Mechanical and Color Properties of Three-Dimensional Printed Crown and Bridge Materials. Polymers (Basel). 2020 Nov 23;12(11):2762. doi: 10.3390/polym12112762. PMID: 33238528; PMCID: PMC7700600. Dantagnan CA, François P, Le Goff S, Attal JP, Dursun E. Degree of conversion of 3D printing resins used for splints and orthodontic appliances under different postpolymerization conditions. Clin Oral Investig. 2023 Jun;27(6):2935-2942. doi: 10.1007/s00784-023-04893-8. Epub 2023 Feb 9. PMID: 36757463.
@@wallyrenne Very helpful video!! just wondering that brittleness is usually undesirable physical property that negatively affect flexural strength. It may improve surface roughness but it comes at a cost
AMAZING! Mine have turned out so beautiful, thank you for your guidance! Do you need to use FRESH glycerin EVERY time or can you just change it out every few cures?
ive tried this technique several times and its just not working for me, im using the nightguard flex i apply the same resin very lightly on the occlusal surface then place it in the procure for some reason it just will not cure it comes out still sticky before i place it inside the glycerin and once it comes out the glycerin it washes off but leaves a semi sticky clammy surface. please any help would be appreciated. Thanks' in advance
It will always be sticky out of the procure before glycerin. It’s the oxygen inhibition layer. The point of the glycerin is to remove and cure that slime layer. Make sure to rub the glycerin into the guard before placing into glycerin. Also notice I tack cure before placing in the procure. That’s a critical step.
Wally, with the Otoflash, how many cycles are you programming in for each cure cycle? I am trying this on Primeprint Splint but can't get any information on the IFU for that material and have asked for information on the DS PPU's curing cycle, but no information as of yet to try and translate over to the Otoflash. Thank you!
I had two observations after candycoating with keystone soft. I did two identical splints and only candy coated the intaglio surface of one of them. I made the layer as thin as I possibly could, and the splint that was not candy coated on the intaglio fit better. Also after the occlusion of the splint was adjusted with marking paper, I polished it with fine pumice and it took the candy coat layer right off. Any thoughts on this? Thanks
Yea if Candy Coating the intaglio as well as the cameo surface your design has to have the appropriate spacer. What setting did you use when you did your design ? My guess is you did not increase the offset? 100 micron spacer is needed. Lastly, of course when you grind on the surface you destroy it. You are not removing the Candy coating, you are rather roughing the surface. The same exact thing happens when grind on a hand polished guard with pumice.
You are correct. I did not adjust the offset. I was interested in seeing how much the candy coat layer actually influenced the fit. I will account for this in the future. It looked great out of the cure box. I was sad, however, that I could not get the polished ice look back after using a pumice wheel. Thanks for all your knowledge and input.
Could you please link the brush, or at least describe what type of brush you would need to look for that has the ideal properties? I know you got this one on Amazon and it doesn't shed bristles, but given that information I am unable to find this exact model. I'd like to ensure I get a brush that has ideal stiffness and wicking, etc. Thanks
I try this technique with my crown using sprintray ceremic crown material and it looks pretty nice. Right out of the printer and no polishing. Great technique! Thanks.
Try putting ONX Tough on the Cermic Crown. Works even better
Looks great! Going to try this in our lab soon
Please do!
Really nice presentation and results
Thank you! Cheers!
nice! that‘s pretty much exactly my procedure I came up with.
I use little UV-blocking nail polish glass bottles that have a little brush inside on their cap for the resin "glaze“. It makes the workflow a bit quicker. You can just store a bunch of these with different resins inside them and don’t worry about accidently curing some of them. If you need one just shake it a bit, screw it open and you already have a soaked brush in your hands thats never been contaminated with a different resin nor does it ever need cleaning.
Curious if you have any recommendations on how to design supports on the buccal surface of the splint vs the AI designed ones generated by sprint ray? What density of supports/how far apart can they be? I’d love to eliminate supports on the occlusal surface. Thanks for the video - super helpful.
Did you polish off the support nibs? It looks like you broke them off cleanly. I print using Keystone Soft and always need to polish after cutting off the supports.
Yea depends on the material and printer but definitely want to make aure they are smooth
So Dr. Wally if you still have nubs from the supports when you would you smooth those? Also the step when you spray with alcohol and dry is that in place of placing of putting it in the wash unit?
Can you replace the alcool spray and 5 min step with the prowash 2? Thanks
Not if you want it perfectly clear because any dirty alcohol will cloud the guard
After painting the glaze coat, could you skip that first "pre-curing" step and go straight from painting the glaze on and into the glycerin for a full cure cycle?
You have to at least tack cure the resin so it’s hard before it touches glycerin
Do you reuse the glycerin or dispose after each use?
Reuse if same print material. About 10 times
Sometimes I have little bubbles on the inner surface of the nightguard. What do I do wrong? Thanks for your help, awesome content and best wishes from Germany!
Try to keep it very thin. Also cure it first. Before curing again in glycerin
Do you ever cure with nitrogen? Would it simply eliminate the second cure with the glycerin?
Yes they are interchangeable
"It takes more than double curing to make the material brittle" with all due respect; would you mind proving this take?
Wow. You are perfectly capable of doing a pubmed search and downloading the literature and reading it. I am not your personal library. It is well known that increasing cure times increases color stability, hardness, flexural strength, biocompatibility and wear resistance. Have you been living under a rock?
Here are a few you should read that look at extra long curing times for a variety of materials: Al-Dulaijan YA, Alsulaimi L, Alotaibi R, Alboainain A, Alalawi H, Alshehri S, Khan SQ, Alsaloum M, AlRumaih HS, Alhumaidan AA, Gad MM. Comparative Evaluation of Surface Roughness and Hardness of 3D Printed Resins. Materials (Basel). 2022 Oct 1;15(19):6822. doi: 10.3390/ma15196822. PMID: 36234163; PMCID: PMC9571863.
Lee EH, Ahn JS, Lim YJ, Kwon HB, Kim MJ. Effect of post-curing time on the color stability and related properties of a tooth-colored 3D-printed resin material. J Mech Behav Biomed Mater. 2022 Feb;126:104993. doi: 10.1016/j.jmbbm.2021.104993. Epub 2021 Nov 24. PMID: 34871954.
Kim D, Shim JS, Lee D, Shin SH, Nam NE, Park KH, Shim JS, Kim JE. Effects of Post-Curing Time on the Mechanical and Color Properties of Three-Dimensional Printed Crown and Bridge Materials. Polymers (Basel). 2020 Nov 23;12(11):2762. doi: 10.3390/polym12112762. PMID: 33238528; PMCID: PMC7700600.
Dantagnan CA, François P, Le Goff S, Attal JP, Dursun E. Degree of conversion of 3D printing resins used for splints and orthodontic appliances under different postpolymerization conditions. Clin Oral Investig. 2023 Jun;27(6):2935-2942. doi: 10.1007/s00784-023-04893-8. Epub 2023 Feb 9. PMID: 36757463.
@@wallyrenne Very helpful video!! just wondering that brittleness is usually undesirable physical property that negatively affect flexural strength. It may improve surface roughness but it comes at a cost
@@samjob6149 brittle guards are bad. Using Keysplint soft, nigtguard flex or other less brittle materials are ideal for this technique.
Do you always break away the support nibs prior to curing. Everytime I polish off the nibs, it takes away the clear look that I am looking for.
Just after washing polish nubs
AMAZING! Mine have turned out so beautiful, thank you for your guidance! Do you need to use FRESH glycerin EVERY time or can you just change it out every few cures?
what does the glycerin do?
Removes the oxygen inhibited layer
these guards are a lot thinner than the ones designed by sprintray. i'm going to have to ask them to thin it out a bit
May I ask how do you clean the brush after the resin application?
Thanks! Great demonstration.
ive tried this technique several times and its just not working for me, im using the nightguard flex i apply the same resin very lightly on the occlusal surface then place it in the procure for some reason it just will not cure it comes out still sticky before i place it inside the glycerin and once it comes out the glycerin it washes off but leaves a semi sticky clammy surface. please any help would be appreciated. Thanks' in advance
It will always be sticky out of the procure before glycerin. It’s the oxygen inhibition layer. The point of the glycerin is to remove and cure that slime layer. Make sure to rub the glycerin into the guard before placing into glycerin. Also notice I tack cure before placing in the procure. That’s a critical step.
What do you reckon is the different is the level/comfort of the fit of a printed appliance vs a vacuum formed one?
Hi Wally, what is your adaptation value in exocad for candy coat technique?
Occlusal adaptation is 50 microns out of occlusion.
Wally, with the Otoflash, how many cycles are you programming in for each cure cycle? I am trying this on Primeprint Splint but can't get any information on the IFU for that material and have asked for information on the DS PPU's curing cycle, but no information as of yet to try and translate over to the Otoflash. Thank you!
Typically 1000 flashes per side is normal. So 2000 flashes. Then put in glycerin and do another 1000 each side
Do you mind me asking wheee you buy the brush and the 2 trays you are working out of/glycerin
Amazon m
Can you post the exact brush your using?
Yes, definitely interested in getting a link for that same brush for this. Thank you.
@@wallyrenne Would be awesome if you can share the exact brush. I tried a couple and they lose bristles :(
@@sebastianrang3064 @travels5416 He just responded to my comment above! The brush is Southside Plants Cactus Cleaning Brushes Pack - Soft Goat
Sick bro 🔥
I had two observations after candycoating with keystone soft. I did two identical splints and only candy coated the intaglio surface of one of them. I made the layer as thin as I possibly could, and the splint that was not candy coated on the intaglio fit better. Also after the occlusion of the splint was adjusted with marking paper, I polished it with fine pumice and it took the candy coat layer right off. Any thoughts on this? Thanks
Yea if Candy Coating the intaglio as well as the cameo surface your design has to have the appropriate spacer. What setting did you use when you did your design ? My guess is you did not increase the offset? 100 micron spacer is needed. Lastly, of course when you grind on the surface you destroy it. You are not removing the Candy coating, you are rather roughing the surface. The same exact thing happens when grind on a hand polished guard with pumice.
You are correct. I did not adjust the offset. I was interested in seeing how much the candy coat layer actually influenced the fit. I will account for this in the future. It looked great out of the cure box. I was sad, however, that I could not get the polished ice look back after using a pumice wheel. Thanks for all your knowledge and input.
Any particular recommendations for the brush that is used?
No it doesn’t matter
Could you please link the brush, or at least describe what type of brush you would need to look for that has the ideal properties? I know you got this one on Amazon and it doesn't shed bristles, but given that information I am unable to find this exact model. I'd like to ensure I get a brush that has ideal stiffness and wicking, etc. Thanks
Southside Plants Cactus Cleaning Brushes Pack - Soft Goat
Amazing! Much appreciated, I didn't expect you to respond at all.@@wallyrenne