This is awesome, thanks. You said it several times, and I 100% agree, that anyone who wants to photograph this event be massively prepared and be sure to include time in that minute or two of totality to just look and wonder. If you've never seen totality, it's quite a moving thing and honestly best seen with your eyes and enjoyed with loved ones.
Hi Nico, Great eclipse prep video...thanks! May I please suggest to also attach a string, about 10 or so inches long, to you DIY Solar Filter and tie a loop in the other end to go over the camera lens barrel. Invariably, with all of the ensuing excitement, when C3 comes around you can easily find the thing hanging there! I did this in 2017 and it worked well for me. Clear skies, Jim in Oregon
Hey Nico. I appreciate your work on this series. One thing I’ve made for my eclipse setup is a reflective camera shade - basically a very thin, lightweight sheet of 7” x 9.5” hardboard with silver foil tape on the sun side and a hole cut in it that fits loosely onto the camera lens against the camera body. This will keep my camera cooler than it would be if left facing the direct sunlight for the entire duration and it gives me a shaded space when looking at my viewfinder. A few strips of foam tape around the hole secure the shade onto a portion of the lens that does not need to move for focusing or zooming.
I think the solar film is actually designed to have wrinkles in it from something I read from the makers. The purpose made ones have wrinkles so suggests that's the way to go.
I was in Makanda, Illinois ‘17 Eclipse. Drove downstate 6 hours to see it! I only had my iPhone on hand to take pics, I ending up putting a cheap pair of eclipse glasses over the lens. Surprisingly, I was able to get some awesome shots. I’m going back to Makanda in April and this time I want to be prepared! Thanks for sharing tutorials for this amazing event. This time I’m bringing my Nikon Z7II. I’m so excited!
One tip you should mention in the next video in the series is to use the October 2023 annular/partial eclipse as practice. If you're anywhere in the partial eclipse path (which is most of the US and Canada) you can practice everything except your actions during totality (you need to keep the Baader filter on at all times).
I live about an hour from the center point of the October Eclipse. I am definitely using it as a test run. Since almost everything I have is new form 2017, I will probably find all kinds of problems.
I did this and I learned a lot. 1) Normal OD 5.0 (15.5 stop) viewing safe solar filters block too much light in my opinion. I had to bump my ISO up to 640 just to get 1/10th-1/100th of a second shutter speeds. I bought some baader planetarium astrsosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8 (12.5 stops). It is NOT viewing safe but is safe for the camera. I used this on my backup camera and shot handheld, 1/6400th F13 ISO 100 at 560mm. These images turned out tack sharp and showed more detail than my 1120mm setup on an equatorial mount with the ~1/50th second shutter speeds I was getting. 2) the wind was blowing hard which was causing motion blur in my slow shutter speed 1120mm setup, it had no affect on my handheld shots due to the super fast shutter speeds. I will still try and get out of the wind next time. 3) I set timers on my phone for my interval to shoot but I had to drive an extra ~80 miles the morning of to get out of the clouds so my timer was slightly off. I will make sure timer is set for exact location. 4) Shoot at 2-3 times the interval you need for your final composite image. I only needed an image every 10 minutes to end up with 13 image composite. I shot every 5 minutes and I'm glad I did. At one interval the sun was completely blocked by clouds, but since I shot every 5 minutes I used every other image (skipped the cloudy one) and it worked out. 5) Shoot multiple images at each interval so you have better odds of getting a tack sharp one. I took five, 3 shot bracketed images every 5 minutes. 5) While trying to drive out from under the clouds I ended up 11 miles off of the centerline of the eclipse. In my ring of fire image, the moon is not perfectly centered (one side of the suns ring is just slightly wider than the other). It is enough to slightly annoy me but most people would not even notice (not near as bad as I thought it would be). I feel like if you are within 3 miles of the centerline you should get a evenly spaced ring (should not matter as much during a total eclipse I think).
Yes, I will be doing full walk-throughs with each kit. The one at 6:38 could technically be done with any of the three kits, but will be much easier with kit 2 or 3. The one at 7:36 is a more advanced kind of image blending several different features of the corona, that I would only attempt with automation software. But yes, all of this will be covered in upcoming videos in the series.
Great tips! You were way ahead of me on polar aligning during the day. I look forward to a how-to on polar aligning and eclipse software for using with an EQ mount.
A few thoughts maybe for the next video in this series: what about camera settings A/P/M mode during the eclipse? And what about metering? I don’t think matrix metering is the best for this High Dynamic Range event. Also is it possible and desired to make Bracketed images. Thanks ever so much Nico!
Terrific video Nico. Love the idea of using the downspout clip for a solar finder; I'll pick one of those up tomorrow. I also recommend practicing focusing on the sun with the solar filter installed before eclipse day! I got some pretty good shots of the 2017 eclipse while in Kentucky, but focus was just a hair off. I'll try to be better prepared for April.
I used to make my solar filters using embroidery hoops. These days, I 3D print them instead. The observing results are the same, but the filter itself looks nicer.
Awesome instructions for homemade filters. I modified your DIY sun finder with the downspout, some inexpensive 1/4 inch hot shoe mounts and a 1/4-20 bolt to attach to my Nikon D780 hot shoe. Works nicely. 2017 was my first TSE. This time I’ll be in Leakey, Texas west of San Antonio.
Don't forget to take a white cloth or white plastic or even shiny foil to put over the camera between pictures outside of totality - the sun can really fry your equipment if it's standing out there for a while!
Thanks for this, particularly part 2 -- I had my plans set for location for a long time, but the discussion of how to photograph with basic equipment in the second half of this video is an excellent integration.
Very helpful series for both the first time total solar eclipse viewer, and someone who has seen a few. This won't be my first eclipse, but I wasn't fully satisfied with the images I got last time. These equipment lists will be useful. And the special offer will be _really_ useful. That was my biggest issue the last two eclipses: my Plan A site ended up cloudy on the day of the eclipse, which caused me to have to drive a lot further.
Just before totality in the 2017 eclipse in Wyoming, someone in the campground yelled "Hey everybody, look at the ground". There seemed like waves of light photons, spectrum colors subdued opacity almost like giving out tiny little flashes. The lines of light looked about 1/8 of an inch thick and about a foot and 1/2 long, in a grid-like pattern wiggling individually like twisted rubber bands on the ground and wrapping around trees and rocks and boulders and cars and people in the campground. I have video footage of the campground as it happened but not pointing down on the ground. The light grid was just too faint for the video camera to pick up, although you could here the guy yell, to tell us about it. Most people left after totality and only a few stayed who were doing a timelapse sequence as I was. The lights never came up in the conversations after. Has anyone seen the phenomenon we witnessed? If it happens often is there a name for it? I googled but found nothing. Are we just projections? Please everyone, if you see this phenomenon this coming total eclipse, please report it, to anybody, news organizations, radio tv, to Nico in these pages. I was waiting for it during the annular eclipse last month but never saw it. I would guess this phenomenon only happens in full total eclipse. So let's be vigilant this coming eclipse and see if we can spot it.
These videos got me practicing. Thank much for that. One thing I think you might say a bit more about is using the downsout clip to find the sun. I have found that it can work, but it is too easy to have it not attached and aligned with the camera lens and then while the sun will pass through both holes - you are not shooting the sun. Do you have any tricks to "calibrate" the clip to align with the lens, especially when you have to do things like adjust the focus. Thans for any ideas.
Thanks so much for this great video. 2017 was absolutely amazing from eastern Oregon. Planning to travel to southern Utah for October 2023. Did you make a specific recommendation for automation software for the solar eclipse? I have a MacBook Pro but I’m wondering about getting a Lenovo if necessary.
I haven't made a recommendation because I'm still exploring myself. Last time I used Solar Eclipse Maestro on a Macbook, which I really loved. Unfortunately, Xavier is not making an M1/M2 version of the software, so I'm seeing how easy it is to virtualize an old version of MacOS to run the software, or if I want to switch to Eclipse Orchestrator (PC) or something else.
@@NebulaPhotos I'm looking forward to your recommendations on software automation. I really wish there was an option for astronomy cameras. However, it seems like that is not an option.
Great video Nico! I have a question about the "sun finder" brace on the top of the camera, though. Why would that be needed if you have your LED screen flipped open, you are wearing solar glasses and your camera has a solar filter on it?
To save time. It’s much faster than trying to line up the camera by eye, just using the screen. The eclipse glasses make everything dark except the sun, so it’s hard to line things up with them on. The solar finder will make a process that can take minutes, only take a few seconds with practice. More essential if tracking the sun manually, but useful with any setup.
The sun is tiny (0.5 degrees) and surprisingly hard to get in your field of view, especially if you have a non-zoom telephoto or telescope . If you're using the viewscreen you need to have solar glasses off, btw.
💥 9:05 you are saying to let the intervalometer just shoot away so that you don’t have to touch the camera but the sun will quickly drift out of the frame.
I photographed the 2019 total solar eclipse in Argentina using the Lumix FZ330 camera that is the European version of the FZ300. The zoom was set to the maximum of 600mm and the exposures were auto exposure bracketed to give 7 different exposures for every button press. Two different exposure settings were used, on for the partial phases with the filter and the other for the totality without the filter. The Lumix Android remote control software was used to control the camera, where one press of the button initiated the 7 auto bracketed exposures. The software was loaded onto a 10.4" tablet to give a nice big image that assists with focusing. The camera was mounted on the Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount that had been modified to be an equatorial mount. This mount was controlled by my phone. After setting the latitude the mount was roughly aligned using a real magnetic compass and lunar tracking was set. When photographing the eclipse the Sun and the Moon could be easily centred by adjusting the mount orientation using the phone. The tracking was worse than I expected and on arriving home I realised that the mount's location was set to the northern hemisphere. Anyway it worked. On pixel peeping the images, they were not a clear as I would have hoped and this is probably because of the small sensor size. So I will be taking a Fujifilm X-S20 camera with a 70-300mm lens and a 1.4X teleconverter to give a 630mm full frame equivalent focal length. On trying the auto exposure bracketing on a different Fujifilm camera and the Fujifilm Android remote control software, pressing the button on the tablet would not take all of the auto bracketing images, so I will be using an external intervalometer that is remotely controlled. Hopefully the image quality will be better.
@@brasilemfotosevideos2737 No I didn't, but tried doing an HDR image of totality using GIMP. It sort of looked OK, but it wasn't as good as I was expecting. This was probably caused by the small sensor on the camera. I should be using a Fujifilm X-S20 next year and that one has a larger sensor with 26MP and expect to have higher quality images. That camera can also auto bracket 9 images.
I am planning to go to Little Rock AR for the eclipse. Weather is the thing, let us know which area you are going if you have info on cloud cover, if you will. I am planning to use an ND variable lens filter. How long will the eclipse last so I have a large enough space on the SD card. What about tracking the moon and just time that to keep it in the picture. I went to the 2017 eclipse but only had a point and shoot camera. This time I have a DSLR with lenses. Very informative video and you present well. Keep the vid's coming.
I did the 2017 and removed the solar shield after looking at the images. i got some just before the diamond all the way after the second diamond. I had no damage to the lens or sensor of my mirrorless A7RM2. Not covered in many videos is when to remove the solar film and to replace. I mean if you take it off at the start of the moon beginning to touch the sun till it leaves you will get more spectacular images as well as the total darkness. I used the FE 24-240mm but with a press of the aps-c button that I assigned it to I got 36-360. I think the 240 setting got more of the shine of the ring glow and more story of clouds and the 24mm setting more of the whole scene of where everyone saw. I was in South Carolina and it was like straight up so I was leaning against the car roof with the tripod not extended. It is like doing a Lunar Eclipse from before and after midnight but lasted some 5 hours out in the cold of January. The question is damage to the aperture fins and sensor. I read before people who rented a lens burned the fins, very expensive to clean and replace. Last I mention today you can crop in to get a closer view but still the extra from the 240mm size there was more to the image. Also your image will be basically all white then in post you will get all the colors so not to be worried out in the field.
You're absolutely right to "belabor" eye safety. Years ago I met a young man who told be he got severe eye damaged because he looked during a partial eclipse.
Thanks for this. I see all of your setups are using a DSLR. Is that recommended over a dedicated camara like a QHY or ZWO? I had been planning on using my "advanced" rig that has a QHY183 on it. Should I reconsider and set up a DSLR instead?
I haven't found any eclipse automation software that supports astro cameras. If I do, I will share it on the channel. Until I find something like that, I'm assuming the best camera for the eclipse will be a DSLR/MILC supported by the automation software you plan on running. You could always use a QHY or ZWO and not use eclipse automation software, but it would be hard to get something as precise as Bailey's beads without software written specifically for eclipse timing.
Hello Nico, fantastic video as always! I've been on the edge of my seat for another release in this series. I'm trying to decide how to automate my exposure sequence. I want it to be almost completely hands off except for removing and replacing the filter. I was really planning to use Eclipse Orchestrator, but they haven't published an update and my Canon 90D isn't on the support list. I've read some people are planning to use SharpCap, but I'm concerned it will be too slow for successful diamond ring and Bailey's beads. I'm very curious how you plan on sequencing!
I agree not to rely on Sharpcap for the kind of precise timing and full automation we are after. Your really want dedicated eclipse automation software for this. I'm planning to use CaptureEclipse, and it does report supporting the 90D, but it's a MacOS program. The only ones I know of for Windows are Eclipse Orchestrator and SETnC, but neither have the 90D on their supported cameras list. You might still want to try SETnC since it's free to see if it can control your Canon.
Unfortunately, that project is on hold because I ended up not liking the angle from the house so I think it will make more sense to build my observatory window with the analemma in mind, but now I have to build the observatory first, which is another huge project. :)
Hi Nico, I like the way you do your filters. I got the Baader filter and their instructions have been bugging me in the part they say: "Cut two equal sized rings out of stiff cardboard. The inner diameter should match the full aperture of the objective lens, the outer diameter should be 10cm (~4”) larger." 10cm is a lot and the instruction isn't clear if they mean every aperture size. Have you seen this?
Nico, great Part 2 video on how to prepare to image the 2024 solar eclipse! Discussing the fundamentals, especially eye safety, and then covering three setups of increasing complexity was well done. Thank you for mentioning my Solar Eclipse Timer app! The timing functions and the audible announcements of the Solar Eclipse Timer app are a definite need to those using setup 1 and 2. For those who will use setup 1 (no guiding) they will be perfectly fine with eclipse photography except they will not be able to do a long exposure of the corona. Fred Espenak says that the lonest unguided corona image you can take (in seconds) is 340/effective focal length in mm. Longer than this calculated time and you will start to get pixel blur from the Earth's rotation. So, as you suggested, if someone was using a 500mm setup, the math would be: 340/500= 0.68s. In my experience you can stretch that a little and probably get away with a 1 second exposure of the corona with no guiding at 500mm. Of course, to get long coronal filaments and get a Earth shine shot you need exposures of 3 or 4 seconds and in that case you have to upgrade to guiding and some basic polar alignment as you discussed so nicely. Thanks again, Gordon
Good point Gordon! And thank you for the kind words on the video. I have several more ideas for this series, including full practice walk-throughs using the three kits I covered here. I will definitely go into more depth on use of your app in those future videos. I just added the link to your website in the description. Cheers, Nico
@@NebulaPhotos , I would like that video as I would be in the kit 1 camp. I plan on using a mirrorless camera with a Canon rf 100-400 lens. Shooting tips with exposure settings would be very useful to us novices in the Astro World! Great two part series. My wife and I enjoyed it!
Correct! I should have mentioned in the video. The surface will look a bit wavy with this style of filter. You don't attempt to stretch taut. I don't think 'creases' is quite the right word, just 'not stretched'.
i will be video recording and potentially streaming the oct eclipse later this year. i was looking at white light filters and saw some 16.5 + ND filters for solar photography. could you talk about the differences between them? perhaps show some examples of them in use? even just regular solar pics as they will be easier to get in the time available.
They should work if designed for solar photography specifically. I can't comment since all my filters are made with the stuff I show in the video. I find it much easier for a total solar eclipse since the filters come off. For the Annular, where the filter never comes off, a screw-on filter like you are talking about should work just fine.
@@NebulaPhotos i was thinking i would get one of each, and borrow a friends identical camera, but i only have one lens...maybe i can find one to rent...
I found out that for my 70-200mm 2.8L (not the IS version) a Ball Wide Mouth mason jar lid ring is almost EXACTLY the same diameter (3.30" vs 3.38" respectively) and it already has the top 'missing' because the ring and lid are seperate. I traced the lid on some solar film, then cut it out carefully and fit it into the mason jar lid and taped it in place using some neoprene foam tape weather stripping placed around the inner ring to make up the .08inch gap and make for a snug fit. It worked out perfectly, the neoprene is pliable and screws onto the threads intended for the lens hood providing quite a snug fit. I'll probably still tape it down the day of to be extra safe and ensure my camera doesn't get destroyed. Saved me a bunch of money, hopefully someone else with a 70-200 sees this lol.
Thanks Nico - thought I had subscribed and was waiting for this one. Good job I checked and found it. Now defo subscribed. Travelling from the UK so no EQ6R-Pro in the luggage! AZGTi and WO66SD. I could automate it all but.......methinks thats a riskys plan so far from home and no power apart from small power packs (good enough for camera and mount). Going to be in Kerrville in the Texas hill country. Fingers crossed for blue skies!
Another option would be to make your filter diameter the same as the inside diameter of your len's sun shade and then tape it inside. To remove the filter just remove shade. Also much more secure if the day gets windy.
Im gonna attempt Earthshine Eclipse since I have the star tracker Im probably gonna be polar aligning it as much as I can during the entire partial phase just to see how accurate I can get it
I photographed the 2017 solar eclipse in Sullivan Missouri. I used a Sony mirrorless camera with a 600 mm reflex lens. I had purchased a German equatorial amount and got up at 3 am to do a polar alignment. Needless to say, I failed miserably, and I had to manually track the sun with my camera. I struggled mightily, but I was able to get reasonable photographs. I decided I wanted something that was a lot more streamlined and hopefully fool proof for this upcoming eclipse. I came upon the Vaonis Vespera and was planning on using this to photograph the eclipse. Do you have any experience or opinions regarding using this smart telescope for the eclipse?
Yes, an astrophotography friend of mine, Alex Hawkinson, captured 28 hours on it with his Planewave and let me process the data. Here's the result: www.astrobin.com/3stv25/
@@original0ri Weird - it's working for me even logged out - if you go to my profile here: www.astrobin.com/users/2ghouls/ do you see it? 2nd photo in the grid
I’m planning to use the polar scope align pro app to polar align for the eclipse. I’ve read while it’s not accurate enough for start tracking, it’s accurate enough for the sun. Look forward to your thoughts on this.
Yes, I suggest using it. I cover how I plan to use it in part 4: Preparing for the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse, Pt. 4 (Star Tracker Tips incl. Daytime Polar Alignment) ua-cam.com/video/zfL0phpISAM/v-deo.html
To results on a search for rotary cutter are mostly pizza wheel-like things for fabric along with a few power tools. Do you have a link for yours? I'd like to improve on the iteration I made for the annular eclipse.
Thanks. Another great video. The only caution I would like to add is that one has to be careful with the screens on Lenovo laptops. They are easily cracked.
Thanks for all your effort and expertise on this. I will be filming a segment for a tv show at a location that will have totality. Since we are doing video, we plan to use ND filters…assuming we have clear skies. Are neutral density filters just as beneficial as the filters you are making? I would think so but not sure if there is something different for pictures verses video when it comes to filming a solar eclipse. Thanks.
ND filters may work, but it’s usually easier to just get a solar filter as you want something easy to take off at totality. If you do use an ND filter(s) you need ND100,000 (equivalent to 16.6 stops)
How important is it that the downspout clip be 4" long? I used your link from Home Depot and ordered it, but they sent me a different version with two holes on each end. I noticed they seem to have a 2"x3" version and I was thinking of trying to order that one to see if it looked more like what you used. Any thoughts are appreciated!
Fantastic tutorial, Nico! As always 👍 I’m debating converting a cheap magnetic UV/protective filter. Got both Baader AstroSolar and Thousand Oaks SolarLite filter films. Any suggestions for that type of setup?
@@NebulaPhotos oh thank you! I also just found the links in your kit. Will look for the rubber cement as I couldn't find that. I'm so excited, just ordered the filter paper, and ordered lens rentals. 😊
@@NebulaPhotos Sorry, one more question: does the card stock have to be black for light blocking reasons? I have a set of other colored card stock paper.
@@NebulaPhotos I'm so sorry, I have one more question: I ordered a Sony 200-600 lens for rental for those particular dates. I won't have it before that. It uses 95mm filters as per the spec. Does that mean that the inner diameter according to your guide is the 95mm? Thank you!
@@hbhavsiAny color card stock is fine. Just make sure it's opaque (doesn't let light through). Yes, 95mm is correct for the inner diameter. Not sure the best way to make the collar without the lens in hand. Maybe you could go to a camera or electronics store that carries it to take some measurements? Either that or guestimate from looking at only photos and other lenses you own. If anything I'd make the collar slightly too big than too small of course. As if it's too small the filter would need to be re-made.
Just watched the video - great advice. I've started practicing daytime polar alignment with a SkyGuider Pro and I saw some drift. What's the rule of thumb on the adjustments you mentioned: if the sun drifts down, do you simply adjust the tracker down? If drift is up, adjust mount to point more up? Is it the opposite of that? What if my It's cloudy for the next week or so it will be a while till I practice some more. If it's tracking left or right, does indicate the azimuth is off? Which way would I adjust for each? Just move tracker in the direction of the drift? I just bought Polar Scope Align Pro so I hope that helps my accuracy as well. Thanks!
To answer my own question for anyone reading through the comments: what I've found is that if the sun drifts up, alignment is too far west. Try nudging your tracker east a couple of degrees. If the sun drifts down, alignment is far east. Nudge your tracker west a couple of degrees. I believe the goal with using the daytime alignment software or a basic compass adjusted for declination is to get an initial close starting point. Then fine-tune it as you go. When you're way off, you'll see noticeable drift in the first couple of minutes. As you fine tune it, it will take more time to see the drift. My strategy would be to do a final centering ~10 minutes out from totality.
Thanks for this very detailed presentation on how to capture a solar eclipse. I have read recommendations to use solar filters instead of ND filters so the camera sensors are not damaged. I have 6&10 ND filters. Your feedback is appreciated.
The safest is to get a solar filter. While a 10+6 ND filter would *likely* work, I'm not sure how well they are blocked in the Infrared, and therefore wouldn't risk it. Solar filters are still in stock today. You don't have to make a custom one like I show in this video, there are pre-made ones that will work.
@@DR-fy7qy If you are still looking, I just bought a Tiffen ND 5.4 18 stop filter from B&H - a special 50th anniversary edition. It says it limits infrared and ultraviolet and is multi-coated to reduce glare. The filter is a bit pricey though ($59.95). If you go for it, be sure to order the correct size because there are no returns or exchanges.
Thanks for the info. Looks like you got a great deal. Soon after I posted my question a month ago, I ended up getting a Kase Magnetic Solar filter since I already own a kit. Have fun with your solar eclipse shoot.
Hi Nico! Great video :) a few questions. First off, where do you go about finding eclipse parties? I'm going with some friends and taking a chance on potential clouds in VT and I feel like the whole experience would be a lot easier with others who are more experienced. I want to avoid commercial events being hosted by the city. Thoughts? Also, I have absolutely no experience with photography. Should I even attempt to try photographing? Or just view and take it in? Thank you and either way, I can't wait!!!
I took pics of the last eclipse in South Carolina. I set my camera up and took some pics. Keep in mind that the sun and moon are moving and you need to track the eclipse or you may end up with sky and not the eclipse. Ben
I got a little smudge of rubber cement on the Astrosolar film. Do I have to start over? I haven't tried to look at the sun with it yet to see where it falls on the image. Thanks!
Probably not. For me, the partial eclipse shots are not that interesting, and the point of the solar filter is just to find and focus on the sun before the main event (totality) where the filter is removed. If the partial eclipse images are important to you and the rubber cement shows up, it may be worth remaking the filter if you have enough material.
@@NebulaPhotos, thank you so very much! Any reason not to try a little acetone on a Q-tip? I've watched the video 5 times to try to get it right! Thank you for it!
Does it matter that the solar film isn't completely flat? I feel like that should diffract the light a little and spoil the image, but if the film is thin enough I guess the effect will be negligible. Is there a focal length where this becomes a problem? I've also heard of things called solar-rejection-filters, but these seem to be really expensive. Is there a certain focal-length/focal ratio where the filters you describe are not enough?
In my experience, no. Every Baader astrosolar filter I've seen has that bit of wavy-ness to it, as it's not designed to be stretched taut. I haven't heard of any problem using it at high focal length. Many accomplished solar photographers have used it at high focal length for ISS transits very successfully.
Hi Nico…as usual you do such wonderful detailed tutorials…thank you… Please could you tell me for the Solar Eclipse Timer on the IPad…do I need to have an internet connection once the app is set up from the internet for my locality…because in the field I will have no internet connection?
You do not need an internet connection to use the Solar Eclipse Timer app. If your iPad is a 'wifi only' model (no GPS chip built in) you will need the exact GPS coordinates for your location, and input those into the app manually.
So 3 questions... 1. With using a laptop, what programs are you running for this? 2. Can this be done with ASIair or only on a laptop? 3. When shooting Baileys beads, or the "Diamond ring" segments, do you leave solar filter on or take it off when shooting these as you would for shooting the iris?
1. I'm still reviewing all the options, but some that I know of: Eclipse Orchestrator, Solar Eclipse Maestro (this is what I used previously, only runs on old MacOS), Set'N'C 2. Only in a limited sense - ASIAir won't be able to trigger the camera precisely enough to get all the different eclipse events 3. Filter is off for those
Great tips Nico! Thanks! Will you do some kind of timelapse with the photos that you will take it? If so, how many photos per minute do i have to take to get a good video sequence with the photos during all phases of eclipse? Tks!
Hi Nico, love this series but a quick question. It seems everyone uses stock dslr or Mirrorless cameras, is it possible to use dedicated Astro cameras like my ZWO asi533mc pro? If so what changes do i need to make to use my Astro camera? Thanks
I’ll cover this in a future video. As it stands right now, I’m not aware of any software that works with dedicated astronomy cameras and does synchronization with the eclipse events. This is the main reason why no one uses them for this
Thanks for this great series. I’m wondering if you have a reason for choosing black as the color for your solar filter? I know you said that you’ve made many filters so I assume they’ve always performed well. I was just wondering if black would add unwanted heat? White would reflect but would that affect the image? Does black help by absorbing light?
Hey Nico, yep, its question time - lol. So, if i wanted to use cardboard, since it would be very difficult to make a tube for the collar, could i make a square? As long as it is flush on all four sides against the outer of the lens? Also, does it matter if the shielding is not wrinkle free?
I wouldn't advise that (a square collar). You want the collar to be round to avoid possible light leaks that could fry your sensor. If you don't want to use cardstock / construction paper, there are other materials that can work like PVC pipe, but cardstock is easiest to work with.
@@NebulaPhotos who knew that astrophotography required some grade school arts and crafts projects. Luckily i still have my calipers from my sheet metal manufacturing days...i do NOT miss those days. But the calipers were $300 sooo they stay with me.
Great informative video's! (Part 1 & 2) Really helped me a lot with the preparation for Next years total Eclipse. I have however a question as to the solar filter. My main thing will be filming the eclipse, (at different focal lengths from wide to super-tele, with Sony Full-Frame system camera's ) Now I've come across two different strengths of Baader Solar film.. ND 5.0 and ND 3.2 , I know only ND 5.0 will also be save for observation with the eyes, ND 3.2 is not for visual observation. However... , which one is better for my type of capturing the eclipse? I've searched around, but cannot find much info on the use of ND3.2 Baader film... Thx in advance
Thanks for the insights Nico! Do you think it is really necessary an equatorial mount for the eclipse? Since we will not be doing long exposures I was thinking only using an alt-az goto mount (like the az gti goto), and with a rough alignment to the north with a compass could be enough. I will do an alignment experiment once my L bracket arrives for my mirrorless camera but what do you think?
I've been telling my friends and family...you MUST get into the path or totality! It's simply not the same unless you are inside the totality region. This will be my fourth solar eclipse and the third one that I'll attempt to capture. They are far more incredible than what you would normally expect. Here is a video I put together of the annular eclipse back in October '23... ua-cam.com/video/VVjA2e65zUY/v-deo.htmlsi=OxUylmS5PQc_EzBV
TIP- If you make the square solar film box, with the circle in it for the solar film you can use 3/4 foam cut the the inside of the solar film holder and make the round opening in the foam a little smaller than the lens barrel. Push the foam all the way in up to the solar film holder. It will not all off and is easy to remove and put back in place. WITH SOLAR FILTER IN PLACE- If you want to be able to align the sun in the viewfinder in seconds, make an alignment tool. Cost MINIMAL. Get a 5 to 6 inch piece of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, remove the burrs and sharp edges with sandpaper. On one end use white electrical tape, stretch the tape to cover the 1/2 inch hole. Now when your camera is mounted on the tripod, take copper pipe and put it UNDER THE CAMERA NEXT TO THE BLLHEAD MOUNT. Take an elastic band put it around the pipe in front of the camera wrap it around the other side of the tripod mount then back around the back of the camera back onto the other end of the pipe with the white tape. The 1/2 in copper pipe is now being held parallel to your lens barrel. I used a 275mm lens and as soon as the tape on the back was all lit up (looks like a mini partial eclipse when looking for perfect alignment on the white tape) I turned on live view and the sun was in the viewfinder every time. Even if you cannot see the sun with higher magnifications it's very very close. I will be using my Star Adventurer on Solar setting. Testing Polar alignment in the DAYTIME I just used my latitude and aimed the leveled wedge to where I know Polaris is "approximately" the tracker kept the sun in the viewfinder for 3 hrs and it only moved about one diameter of the sun during that time. I can watch the alignment tool the entire time to see if I am getting too far off course and realign the camera with my ballhead mount. Get out there now and practice on a sunny day, take some full sun images and record what ISO, shutter speed and F-stop works best for YOUR setup.
Nico, great video and thanks. I was about to order some of the solar film you use in your demo but realized I had previously purchased a high quality glass 6-stop 77mm filter for the telephoto lens I will be using in April. Is the density of this filter adequate for the partial phases of the eclipse or do I need the solar film? Thanks
Okay thanks. I got confused since on the exposure calculator chart you demonstrated on Javier Jubier's website, some of the first button options for partial eclipse talk about ND 5 and ND 6 filters. I've ordered some of the solar film as well and will do some tests in the next couple days. I'll be shooting from Llano, TX which looks to be a sweet spot.@@NebulaPhotos
@@zachryall2527Gotcha, yes, I agree that's confusing. Different terminology with your typical photographic ND filters and solar filters. In that case the ND 5/6 is referring to the optical density, not the number of stops.
Really appreciate these videos man. I have a dslr but only have the standard focal length so I'll be renting a 400 lense and flying back home to south Texas to film. The solar lenses are a great cost saving strategy. Think I might use those savings to invest in that solar tracker. Side note, your the lense tutorial was some solid unintentional asmr. 👌🏻
do you think that astro software - like ASIAIR - will have any special upgrades for the eclipse? Would you use your astro camera or a DSLR (as you showed) assuming that you already have a setup.
I doubt it. That would be a huge amount of work to develop. I think it would be much easier for one of the existing eclipse automation softwares to support the astro cameras, but so far I haven't found any eclipse automation software that supports astro cameras. If I do, I will share it on the channel. Until I find something like that, I'm assuming the best camera for the eclipse will be a DSLR/MILC supported by the automation software you plan on running. You could always use your ZWO and ASIAir for the eclipse, but it would be hard to get something as precise as Bailey's beads without software written specifically for eclipse timing.
Yet another awesome video! Btw, if it’s a windy day, do you think that the filter may blow off? I recall the 2017 one in Wyoming was very breezy. Also, if you can’t cut an exactly perfect circle (don’t have that tool), does it matter?
Circle doesn’t have to be perfect. I think my ‘collar’ is long enough that even a very windy day wouldn’t blow it off, but it is a good reason to make the filter reasonably snug (but not tight or it will be too hard to remove gracefully for totality)
Are you still going to photograph the eclipse? I've been working on my plan and did not realize how complicated the shooting sequence alone can be. Below is my sequence of events on eclipse day. Obviously, it is specific to my camera but if it is helpful to anyone, please feel free to use it. More importantly, if I have missed something, please do an updated video. Where I use the notation f11x2=f22, I am using a 2x converter so I will set my lens to f11 which will give me an f22 exposure. I didn't want to write f22 and then forget to do thee math in my head during the excitement of the moment Thanks for some great tutorials! Pre-Eclipse Check weather - move observing site as needed Select a spot to set up tripod,camera, scope, etc Level tripod, mount Install sun finder Install lens Install camera install solar filter Find Sun Check focus with sun spots - f4x2=f8, ISO 200, 1/2000 sec Tape focus ring Verify focus with sun spots - re-focus, re-tape, re-verify as necessary approaching 1st Contact Verify solar filter is in place Lens f11x2=f22 Release mode - self timer 2 second delay Set auto bracket to 0 1/1000 sec Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/8000 sec 1st Contact Use manual trip about once each minute
30 sec B4 2nd Contact Set lens to f5.6x2=f11 take last shot @ 2nd Contact Remove solar filter Shoot diamond ring, Baily’s Beads after diamond ring Lens f4x2=f8 Release mode - Continuous Low (CL) ISO 800 Set auto bracket to 0 1/50 sec Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/400 sec Interval Timer (camera shooting menu) 10 sec interval, 22 shots 30 sec B4 3rd Contact Release mode - self timer 2 second delay take last 1 or 2 shots Shoot diamond ring, Baily’s Beads a current settings after diamond ring install solar filter take one more shot at current settings Set lens to f5.6x2=f11 take one shot set lens to f11x2=f22 Set auto bracket to 0 1/1000 sec Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/8000 sec Use manual trip about once each minute
Yes, editing part 3 right now. There is a lot of good stuff in your plan. If this is your first eclipse, I would suggest either simplifying your shooting sequence or using eclipse automation software to handle all the changes you are talking about. As it is, it looks like you will so busy changing things in camera menus that you won't have time to really observe totality visually, which I think you will regret. While if you use a tethered laptop, the script can take care of all the changes to shutter speed, and do it with perfect timing. Another option is to just skip baileys beads / diamond ring and only get the partial phases and corona (bracketed). That is what I'm going to recommend in part 3 for people who are using a setup with no computer (just interval timer).
Still waiting to hear ideas for photography of shadow bands. Kind of like astrophotography, but inside-out. Very scarce existing work on this subject, making this a very useful amateur endeavor.
For those who want automation to capture all elements of the eclipse, but who can’t travel with a large scope/GEM, would it be advisable/possible to use a laptop with a star tracker / dslr?
This information is great! By the way, how much did the baader astro solar film cost you? I see varying prices online. Thanks for the videos! I’ve learned so much from you.
Hey if you need a place to shoot, let me know. My property in Texas is directly in the path. #Fredericksburg, TX 30° 24' 26.16" N 98° 43' 16.73" W 4m 23.6s (total solar eclipse)
Hi kdogbigdog - Not sure if this offer is for Nico, or for those of us traveling to your part of Texas. I'm coming from California and considering Fredericksburg or Lampasas as good viewing spots. Any suggestions for someone who has never explored this part of Texas? Up to now, my focus has been on narrow-band photos of nebulas. But this total solar eclipse opportunity sounds too good to pass up. Thank you.
Kerrville is the prime location but even during the Oct 23 eclipse, it was crazy down there. If you want some dark sky and great eclipse. Look at Brady or Mason too. @@craigmarks7025
Yes, a 16 stop (ND 100000) glass filter will work. Every one I’ve seen for sale notes that it is a solar filter Although I wouldn’t suggest screw on filters for the eclipse, magnetic or friction fit over the lens hood is better so they are easy to take off
Great stuff as always. Planning to use my HEQ5 and WO GT71. How do I polar align during the day or is getting close, close enough? I can always use my phone for rough RA and DEC. Is there something else better? Will use ASIAIR+ Thanks
2 questions: 1. the homemade filter appears to have slight wrinkles. Will this be apparent in your images? and 2. With the filter in place, will this protect my camera sensor for extended imaging of the sun or should I be cautious of how long I'm pointing my camera at the sun.
1. Nope the wavy-ness is expected and the material is not meant to be stretched taut. It doesn’t affect the images 2. I haven’t had any issues but someone below in the comments mentioned making a reflective disk for keeping direct heat off the camera. Maybe a good idea
Using a downspout clip as a solar finder is genius! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Such generous sharing of your knowledge and experience. Thanks!
This is awesome, thanks. You said it several times, and I 100% agree, that anyone who wants to photograph this event be massively prepared and be sure to include time in that minute or two of totality to just look and wonder. If you've never seen totality, it's quite a moving thing and honestly best seen with your eyes and enjoyed with loved ones.
Hi Nico, Great eclipse prep video...thanks! May I please suggest to also attach a string, about 10 or so inches long, to you DIY Solar Filter and tie a loop in the other end to go over the camera lens barrel. Invariably, with all of the ensuing excitement, when C3 comes around you can easily find the thing hanging there! I did this in 2017 and it worked well for me. Clear skies, Jim in Oregon
One place not to store the filter during totality is on the lens. I did that in 2017. Once I thought of it, I just watched.
Hey Nico. I appreciate your work on this series. One thing I’ve made for my eclipse setup is a reflective camera shade - basically a very thin, lightweight sheet of 7” x 9.5” hardboard with silver foil tape on the sun side and a hole cut in it that fits loosely onto the camera lens against the camera body. This will keep my camera cooler than it would be if left facing the direct sunlight for the entire duration and it gives me a shaded space when looking at my viewfinder. A few strips of foam tape around the hole secure the shade onto a portion of the lens that does not need to move for focusing or zooming.
Nice idea, thanks for sharing it!
I just 3D printed a filter assembly a few days ago. It allows the solar film to lay perfectly flat with no bumps or wrinkles.
I think the solar film is actually designed to have wrinkles in it from something I read from the makers. The purpose made ones have wrinkles so suggests that's the way to go.
Thanks!
I was in Makanda, Illinois ‘17 Eclipse. Drove downstate 6 hours to see it! I only had my iPhone on hand to take pics, I ending up putting a cheap pair of eclipse glasses over the lens. Surprisingly, I was able to get some awesome shots.
I’m going back to Makanda in April and this time I want to be prepared! Thanks for sharing tutorials for this amazing event. This time I’m bringing my Nikon Z7II. I’m so excited!
One tip you should mention in the next video in the series is to use the October 2023 annular/partial eclipse as practice. If you're anywhere in the partial eclipse path (which is most of the US and Canada) you can practice everything except your actions during totality (you need to keep the Baader filter on at all times).
Good idea!
I live about an hour from the center point of the October Eclipse. I am definitely using it as a test run. Since almost everything I have is new form 2017, I will probably find all kinds of problems.
I did this and I learned a lot. 1) Normal OD 5.0 (15.5 stop) viewing safe solar filters block too much light in my opinion. I had to bump my ISO up to 640 just to get 1/10th-1/100th of a second shutter speeds. I bought some baader planetarium astrsosolar PHOTO film OD 3.8 (12.5 stops). It is NOT viewing safe but is safe for the camera. I used this on my backup camera and shot handheld, 1/6400th F13 ISO 100 at 560mm. These images turned out tack sharp and showed more detail than my 1120mm setup on an equatorial mount with the ~1/50th second shutter speeds I was getting. 2) the wind was blowing hard which was causing motion blur in my slow shutter speed 1120mm setup, it had no affect on my handheld shots due to the super fast shutter speeds. I will still try and get out of the wind next time. 3) I set timers on my phone for my interval to shoot but I had to drive an extra ~80 miles the morning of to get out of the clouds so my timer was slightly off. I will make sure timer is set for exact location. 4) Shoot at 2-3 times the interval you need for your final composite image. I only needed an image every 10 minutes to end up with 13 image composite. I shot every 5 minutes and I'm glad I did. At one interval the sun was completely blocked by clouds, but since I shot every 5 minutes I used every other image (skipped the cloudy one) and it worked out. 5) Shoot multiple images at each interval so you have better odds of getting a tack sharp one. I took five, 3 shot bracketed images every 5 minutes. 5) While trying to drive out from under the clouds I ended up 11 miles off of the centerline of the eclipse. In my ring of fire image, the moon is not perfectly centered (one side of the suns ring is just slightly wider than the other). It is enough to slightly annoy me but most people would not even notice (not near as bad as I thought it would be). I feel like if you are within 3 miles of the centerline you should get a evenly spaced ring (should not matter as much during a total eclipse I think).
@@mdees88had to do the same thing because of a pretty bad cloud cover luckily only sacrificed 14 seconds of the annular part
6:38 7:36 Will you be doing a video on how to achieve different shots like this one?
Yes, I will be doing full walk-throughs with each kit. The one at 6:38 could technically be done with any of the three kits, but will be much easier with kit 2 or 3. The one at 7:36 is a more advanced kind of image blending several different features of the corona, that I would only attempt with automation software. But yes, all of this will be covered in upcoming videos in the series.
@@NebulaPhotos great...i plan to take my 2i, all my lenses and my MAK. Thanks for the videos!
Great tips! You were way ahead of me on polar aligning during the day. I look forward to a how-to on polar aligning and eclipse software for using with an EQ mount.
Amazing series ! Planning for this allready your tutorials help a lot.
A few thoughts maybe for the next video in this series: what about camera settings A/P/M mode during the eclipse? And what about metering? I don’t think matrix metering is the best for this High Dynamic Range event. Also is it possible and desired to make Bracketed images. Thanks ever so much Nico!
Terrific video Nico. Love the idea of using the downspout clip for a solar finder; I'll pick one of those up tomorrow. I also recommend practicing focusing on the sun with the solar filter installed before eclipse day! I got some pretty good shots of the 2017 eclipse while in Kentucky, but focus was just a hair off. I'll try to be better prepared for April.
I used to make my solar filters using embroidery hoops.
These days, I 3D print them instead. The observing results are the same, but the filter itself looks nicer.
Great info. Thanks Nico. I am super excited about April.
Awesome instructions for homemade filters. I modified your DIY sun finder with the downspout, some inexpensive 1/4 inch hot shoe mounts and a 1/4-20 bolt to attach to my Nikon D780 hot shoe. Works nicely. 2017 was my first TSE. This time I’ll be in Leakey, Texas west of San Antonio.
Keep up the good work! Im watching from Canada and I love how you tell historical stories associated with these places.
Don't forget to take a white cloth or white plastic or even shiny foil to put over the camera between pictures outside of totality - the sun can really fry your equipment if it's standing out there for a while!
I'm intending to image both the annular in October and the total in April (2024). This series is helpful for all the reminders it provides.
Thanks for this, particularly part 2 -- I had my plans set for location for a long time, but the discussion of how to photograph with basic equipment in the second half of this video is an excellent integration.
This content is pure gold thank u!
Very helpful series for both the first time total solar eclipse viewer, and someone who has seen a few. This won't be my first eclipse, but I wasn't fully satisfied with the images I got last time. These equipment lists will be useful. And the special offer will be _really_ useful. That was my biggest issue the last two eclipses: my Plan A site ended up cloudy on the day of the eclipse, which caused me to have to drive a lot further.
Just before totality in the 2017 eclipse in Wyoming, someone in the campground yelled "Hey everybody, look at the ground". There seemed like waves of light photons, spectrum colors subdued opacity almost like giving out tiny little flashes. The lines of light looked about 1/8 of an inch thick and about a foot and 1/2 long, in a grid-like pattern wiggling individually like twisted rubber bands on the ground and wrapping around trees and rocks and boulders and cars and people in the campground. I have video footage of the campground as it happened but not pointing down on the ground. The light grid was just too faint for the video camera to pick up, although you could here the guy yell, to tell us about it. Most people left after totality and only a few stayed who were doing a timelapse sequence as I was. The lights never came up in the conversations after. Has anyone seen the phenomenon we witnessed? If it happens often is there a name for it? I googled but found nothing. Are we just projections? Please everyone, if you see this phenomenon this coming total eclipse, please report it, to anybody, news organizations, radio tv, to Nico in these pages. I was waiting for it during the annular eclipse last month but never saw it. I would guess this phenomenon only happens in full total eclipse. So let's be vigilant this coming eclipse and see if we can spot it.
Maybe diffraction from the turbulent atmosphere, if I was guessing
These sound like shadow snakes! Destin from smartereveryday explained and tried to capture the phenomenon back in 2017 I believe.
@sonicbrush aka shadow bands
These are the edge diffraction bands, but these are typically several feet across and moving fast❤
Yes! Exactly 💯 Well Said! We have no idea be very Vigilant!! Oh my god!!
These videos got me practicing. Thank much for that. One thing I think you might say a bit more about is using the downsout clip to find the sun. I have found that it can work, but it is too easy to have it not attached and aligned with the camera lens and then while the sun will pass through both holes - you are not shooting the sun. Do you have any tricks to "calibrate" the clip to align with the lens, especially when you have to do things like adjust the focus. Thans for any ideas.
Thanks so much for this great video. 2017 was absolutely amazing from eastern Oregon. Planning to travel to southern Utah for October 2023. Did you make a specific recommendation for automation software for the solar eclipse? I have a MacBook Pro but I’m wondering about getting a Lenovo if necessary.
I haven't made a recommendation because I'm still exploring myself. Last time I used Solar Eclipse Maestro on a Macbook, which I really loved. Unfortunately, Xavier is not making an M1/M2 version of the software, so I'm seeing how easy it is to virtualize an old version of MacOS to run the software, or if I want to switch to Eclipse Orchestrator (PC) or something else.
@@NebulaPhotos I'm looking forward to your recommendations on software automation. I really wish there was an option for astronomy cameras. However, it seems like that is not an option.
Great video Nico! I have a question about the "sun finder" brace on the top of the camera, though. Why would that be needed if you have your LED screen flipped open, you are wearing solar glasses and your camera has a solar filter on it?
To save time. It’s much faster than trying to line up the camera by eye, just using the screen. The eclipse glasses make everything dark except the sun, so it’s hard to line things up with them on. The solar finder will make a process that can take minutes, only take a few seconds with practice. More essential if tracking the sun manually, but useful with any setup.
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks so much! Guess I have a shopping trip to Home Depot in my future!
The sun is tiny (0.5 degrees) and surprisingly hard to get in your field of view, especially if you have a non-zoom telephoto or telescope . If you're using the viewscreen you need to have solar glasses off, btw.
💥 9:05 you are saying to let the intervalometer just shoot away so that you don’t have to touch the camera but the sun will quickly drift out of the frame.
Also… 26:32 the wrinkles don’t affect image quality.?? 🤟🏼
I photographed the 2019 total solar eclipse in Argentina using the Lumix FZ330 camera that is the European version of the FZ300. The zoom was set to the maximum of 600mm and the exposures were auto exposure bracketed to give 7 different exposures for every button press. Two different exposure settings were used, on for the partial phases with the filter and the other for the totality without the filter. The Lumix Android remote control software was used to control the camera, where one press of the button initiated the 7 auto bracketed exposures. The software was loaded onto a 10.4" tablet to give a nice big image that assists with focusing.
The camera was mounted on the Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount that had been modified to be an equatorial mount. This mount was controlled by my phone. After setting the latitude the mount was roughly aligned using a real magnetic compass and lunar tracking was set.
When photographing the eclipse the Sun and the Moon could be easily centred by adjusting the mount orientation using the phone. The tracking was worse than I expected and on arriving home I realised that the mount's location was set to the northern hemisphere. Anyway it worked.
On pixel peeping the images, they were not a clear as I would have hoped and this is probably because of the small sensor size. So I will be taking a Fujifilm X-S20 camera with a 70-300mm lens and a 1.4X teleconverter to give a 630mm full frame equivalent focal length.
On trying the auto exposure bracketing on a different Fujifilm camera and the Fujifilm Android remote control software, pressing the button on the tablet would not take all of the auto bracketing images, so I will be using an external intervalometer that is remotely controlled. Hopefully the image quality will be better.
Great! Did you do some kind of timelapse with your photos?
@@brasilemfotosevideos2737 No I didn't, but tried doing an HDR image of totality using GIMP. It sort of looked OK, but it wasn't as good as I was expecting. This was probably caused by the small sensor on the camera.
I should be using a Fujifilm X-S20 next year and that one has a larger sensor with 26MP and expect to have higher quality images. That camera can also auto bracket 9 images.
Great video and super informative dude - can't wait for next year's eclipse!!!
Thanks Ian!
I am planning to go to Little Rock AR for the eclipse. Weather is the thing, let us know which area you are going if you have info on cloud cover, if you will. I am planning to use an ND variable lens filter. How long will the eclipse last so I have a large enough space on the SD card. What about tracking the moon and just time that to keep it in the picture. I went to the 2017 eclipse but only had a point and shoot camera. This time I have a DSLR with lenses. Very informative video and you present well. Keep the vid's coming.
I live in Conway, AR. That’s my only concern from a viewing standpoint. I plan to set up in my driveway & enjoy the show.
I did the 2017 and removed the solar shield after looking at the images. i got some just before the diamond all the way after the second diamond. I had no damage to the lens or sensor of my mirrorless A7RM2. Not covered in many videos is when to remove the solar film and to replace. I mean if you take it off at the start of the moon beginning to touch the sun till it leaves you will get more spectacular images as well as the total darkness. I used the FE 24-240mm but with a press of the aps-c button that I assigned it to I got 36-360. I think the 240 setting got more of the shine of the ring glow and more story of clouds and the 24mm setting more of the whole scene of where everyone saw. I was in South Carolina and it was like straight up so I was leaning against the car roof with the tripod not extended. It is like doing a Lunar Eclipse from before and after midnight but lasted some 5 hours out in the cold of January. The question is damage to the aperture fins and sensor. I read before people who rented a lens burned the fins, very expensive to clean and replace. Last I mention today you can crop in to get a closer view but still the extra from the 240mm size there was more to the image. Also your image will be basically all white then in post you will get all the colors so not to be worried out in the field.
You're absolutely right to "belabor" eye safety. Years ago I met a young man who told be he got severe eye damaged because he looked during a partial eclipse.
Thanks for this. I see all of your setups are using a DSLR. Is that recommended over a dedicated camara like a QHY or ZWO? I had been planning on using my "advanced" rig that has a QHY183 on it. Should I reconsider and set up a DSLR instead?
I haven't found any eclipse automation software that supports astro cameras. If I do, I will share it on the channel. Until I find something like that, I'm assuming the best camera for the eclipse will be a DSLR/MILC supported by the automation software you plan on running. You could always use a QHY or ZWO and not use eclipse automation software, but it would be hard to get something as precise as Bailey's beads without software written specifically for eclipse timing.
This video is exactly what I was looking for! Looking forward to watching the other parts!
Hello Nico, fantastic video as always! I've been on the edge of my seat for another release in this series. I'm trying to decide how to automate my exposure sequence. I want it to be almost completely hands off except for removing and replacing the filter. I was really planning to use Eclipse Orchestrator, but they haven't published an update and my Canon 90D isn't on the support list. I've read some people are planning to use SharpCap, but I'm concerned it will be too slow for successful diamond ring and Bailey's beads. I'm very curious how you plan on sequencing!
I agree not to rely on Sharpcap for the kind of precise timing and full automation we are after. Your really want dedicated eclipse automation software for this. I'm planning to use CaptureEclipse, and it does report supporting the 90D, but it's a MacOS program. The only ones I know of for Windows are Eclipse Orchestrator and SETnC, but neither have the 90D on their supported cameras list. You might still want to try SETnC since it's free to see if it can control your Canon.
hello!You have very cool videos! How are things going with the shooting of the analemma??
Unfortunately, that project is on hold because I ended up not liking the angle from the house so I think it will make more sense to build my observatory window with the analemma in mind, but now I have to build the observatory first, which is another huge project. :)
Hi Nico, I like the way you do your filters. I got the Baader filter and their instructions have been bugging me in the part they say: "Cut two equal sized rings out of stiff cardboard. The inner diameter should match the full aperture of the objective lens, the outer diameter should be 10cm (~4”) larger." 10cm is a lot and the instruction isn't clear if they mean every aperture size. Have you seen this?
Nico, great Part 2 video on how to prepare to image the 2024 solar eclipse! Discussing the fundamentals, especially eye safety, and then covering three setups of increasing complexity was well done. Thank you for mentioning my Solar Eclipse Timer app! The timing functions and the audible announcements of the Solar Eclipse Timer app are a definite need to those using setup 1 and 2. For those who will use setup 1 (no guiding) they will be perfectly fine with eclipse photography except they will not be able to do a long exposure of the corona. Fred Espenak says that the lonest unguided corona image you can take (in seconds) is 340/effective focal length in mm. Longer than this calculated time and you will start to get pixel blur from the Earth's rotation. So, as you suggested, if someone was using a 500mm setup, the math would be: 340/500= 0.68s. In my experience you can stretch that a little and probably get away with a 1 second exposure of the corona with no guiding at 500mm. Of course, to get long coronal filaments and get a Earth shine shot you need exposures of 3 or 4 seconds and in that case you have to upgrade to guiding and some basic polar alignment as you discussed so nicely. Thanks again, Gordon
Good point Gordon! And thank you for the kind words on the video. I have several more ideas for this series, including full practice walk-throughs using the three kits I covered here. I will definitely go into more depth on use of your app in those future videos. I just added the link to your website in the description. Cheers, Nico
Great info!
@@NebulaPhotos , I would like that video as I would be in the kit 1 camp. I plan on using a mirrorless camera with a Canon rf 100-400 lens. Shooting tips with exposure settings would be very useful to us novices in the Astro World! Great two part series. My wife and I enjoyed it!
I take it the filter doesn't have to be totally stretched flat with no creases?
Correct! I should have mentioned in the video. The surface will look a bit wavy with this style of filter. You don't attempt to stretch taut. I don't think 'creases' is quite the right word, just 'not stretched'.
i will be video recording and potentially streaming the oct eclipse later this year. i was looking at white light filters and saw some 16.5 + ND filters for solar photography. could you talk about the differences between them? perhaps show some examples of them in use? even just regular solar pics as they will be easier to get in the time available.
They should work if designed for solar photography specifically. I can't comment since all my filters are made with the stuff I show in the video. I find it much easier for a total solar eclipse since the filters come off. For the Annular, where the filter never comes off, a screw-on filter like you are talking about should work just fine.
@@NebulaPhotos i was thinking i would get one of each, and borrow a friends identical camera, but i only have one lens...maybe i can find one to rent...
I found out that for my 70-200mm 2.8L (not the IS version) a Ball Wide Mouth mason jar lid ring is almost EXACTLY the same diameter (3.30" vs 3.38" respectively) and it already has the top 'missing' because the ring and lid are seperate. I traced the lid on some solar film, then cut it out carefully and fit it into the mason jar lid and taped it in place using some neoprene foam tape weather stripping placed around the inner ring to make up the .08inch gap and make for a snug fit. It worked out perfectly, the neoprene is pliable and screws onto the threads intended for the lens hood providing quite a snug fit. I'll probably still tape it down the day of to be extra safe and ensure my camera doesn't get destroyed. Saved me a bunch of money, hopefully someone else with a 70-200 sees this lol.
Thanks Nico - thought I had subscribed and was waiting for this one. Good job I checked and found it. Now defo subscribed. Travelling from the UK so no EQ6R-Pro in the luggage! AZGTi and WO66SD. I could automate it all but.......methinks thats a riskys plan so far from home and no power apart from small power packs (good enough for camera and mount). Going to be in Kerrville in the Texas hill country. Fingers crossed for blue skies!
Another option would be to make your filter diameter the same as the inside diameter of your len's sun shade and then tape it inside. To remove the filter just remove shade. Also much more secure if the day gets windy.
THANKS MUCH.....LOOKING FORWARD TO THE NEXT VIDS!
Im gonna attempt Earthshine Eclipse since I have the star tracker
Im probably gonna be polar aligning it as much as I can during the entire partial phase just to see how accurate I can get it
I photographed the 2017 solar eclipse in Sullivan Missouri. I used a Sony mirrorless camera with a 600 mm reflex lens. I had purchased a German equatorial amount and got up at 3 am to do a polar alignment. Needless to say, I failed miserably, and I had to manually track the sun with my camera. I struggled mightily, but I was able to get reasonable photographs. I decided I wanted something that was a lot more streamlined and hopefully fool proof for this upcoming eclipse. I came upon the Vaonis Vespera and was planning on using this to photograph the eclipse. Do you have any experience or opinions regarding using this smart telescope for the eclipse?
Great video as always Nico! did you capture more footage of the hummingbird nebula? I'm dying to see your nebula in all its glory!
Yes, an astrophotography friend of mine, Alex Hawkinson, captured 28 hours on it with his Planewave and let me process the data. Here's the result: www.astrobin.com/3stv25/
@@NebulaPhotos The link ins't working, did you delete it?
@@original0ri Weird - it's working for me even logged out - if you go to my profile here: www.astrobin.com/users/2ghouls/ do you see it? 2nd photo in the grid
The original link works for me!
I’m planning to use the polar scope align pro app to polar align for the eclipse. I’ve read while it’s not accurate enough for start tracking, it’s accurate enough for the sun. Look forward to your thoughts on this.
Yes, I suggest using it. I cover how I plan to use it in part 4: Preparing for the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse, Pt. 4 (Star Tracker Tips incl. Daytime Polar Alignment)
ua-cam.com/video/zfL0phpISAM/v-deo.html
I'm going to be in a zone of about 85%, so I will be keeping my filters on the whole time. It still should be pretty cool though.
To results on a search for rotary cutter are mostly pizza wheel-like things for fabric along with a few power tools. Do you have a link for yours? I'd like to improve on the iteration I made for the annular eclipse.
Yep, here you go: kit.co/nebulaphotos/total-solar-eclipse-kit-1-basic/rotary-circle-cutter
Thanks. Another great video.
The only caution I would like to add is that one has to be careful with the screens on Lenovo laptops. They are easily cracked.
Thanks for all your effort and expertise on this. I will be filming a segment for a tv show at a location that will have totality. Since we are doing video, we plan to use ND filters…assuming we have clear skies. Are neutral density filters just as beneficial as the filters you are making? I would think so but not sure if there is something different for pictures verses video when it comes to filming a solar eclipse. Thanks.
ND filters may work, but it’s usually easier to just get a solar filter as you want something easy to take off at totality. If you do use an ND filter(s) you need ND100,000 (equivalent to 16.6 stops)
@@NebulaPhotos thanks for getting back to me. Cheers.
Niko, fantastic video as always!
How important is it that the downspout clip be 4" long? I used your link from Home Depot and ordered it, but they sent me a different version with two holes on each end. I noticed they seem to have a 2"x3" version and I was thinking of trying to order that one to see if it looked more like what you used. Any thoughts are appreciated!
where would I get the rotary cutter you showed in this clip, please ?
Fantastic tutorial, Nico! As always 👍 I’m debating converting a cheap magnetic UV/protective filter. Got both Baader AstroSolar and Thousand Oaks SolarLite filter films. Any suggestions for that type of setup?
I'm sure it could work. I don't have any suggestions as I've always just made them with cardstock, glue and tape as shown.
Where do you get the construction paper and rubber cement? Thank you for showing the process.
I got them at a craft store (Michael’s) but you can also find them on Amazon.
@@NebulaPhotos oh thank you! I also just found the links in your kit. Will look for the rubber cement as I couldn't find that. I'm so excited, just ordered the filter paper, and ordered lens rentals. 😊
@@NebulaPhotos Sorry, one more question: does the card stock have to be black for light blocking reasons? I have a set of other colored card stock paper.
@@NebulaPhotos I'm so sorry, I have one more question: I ordered a Sony 200-600 lens for rental for those particular dates. I won't have it before that. It uses 95mm filters as per the spec. Does that mean that the inner diameter according to your guide is the 95mm? Thank you!
@@hbhavsiAny color card stock is fine. Just make sure it's opaque (doesn't let light through). Yes, 95mm is correct for the inner diameter. Not sure the best way to make the collar without the lens in hand. Maybe you could go to a camera or electronics store that carries it to take some measurements? Either that or guestimate from looking at only photos and other lenses you own. If anything I'd make the collar slightly too big than too small of course. As if it's too small the filter would need to be re-made.
Just watched the video - great advice. I've started practicing daytime polar alignment with a SkyGuider Pro and I saw some drift. What's the rule of thumb on the adjustments you mentioned: if the sun drifts down, do you simply adjust the tracker down? If drift is up, adjust mount to point more up? Is it the opposite of that? What if my It's cloudy for the next week or so it will be a while till I practice some more. If it's tracking left or right, does indicate the azimuth is off? Which way would I adjust for each? Just move tracker in the direction of the drift? I just bought Polar Scope Align Pro so I hope that helps my accuracy as well. Thanks!
To answer my own question for anyone reading through the comments: what I've found is that if the sun drifts up, alignment is too far west. Try nudging your tracker east a couple of degrees. If the sun drifts down, alignment is far east. Nudge your tracker west a couple of degrees. I believe the goal with using the daytime alignment software or a basic compass adjusted for declination is to get an initial close starting point. Then fine-tune it as you go. When you're way off, you'll see noticeable drift in the first couple of minutes. As you fine tune it, it will take more time to see the drift. My strategy would be to do a final centering ~10 minutes out from totality.
I'm gonna have a great seat. Searcy County AR right from my front porch! 😁
14:23 setting star tracker to track the sun
Thanks for this very detailed presentation on how to capture a solar eclipse. I have read recommendations to use solar filters instead of ND filters so the camera sensors are not damaged. I have 6&10 ND filters. Your feedback is appreciated.
The safest is to get a solar filter. While a 10+6 ND filter would *likely* work, I'm not sure how well they are blocked in the Infrared, and therefore wouldn't risk it. Solar filters are still in stock today. You don't have to make a custom one like I show in this video, there are pre-made ones that will work.
Thanks.@@NebulaPhotos
@@DR-fy7qy If you are still looking, I just bought a Tiffen ND 5.4 18 stop filter from B&H - a special 50th anniversary edition. It says it limits infrared and ultraviolet and is multi-coated to reduce glare. The filter is a bit pricey though ($59.95). If you go for it, be sure to order the correct size because there are no returns or exchanges.
Thanks for the info. Looks like you got a great deal. Soon after I posted my question a month ago, I ended up getting a Kase Magnetic Solar filter since I already own a kit. Have fun with your solar eclipse shoot.
Does Baader Astrosolar film come in various "strengths?" If so, how many stops do you recommend? GREAT VIDEO!!!!!
Hi Nico! Great video :) a few questions. First off, where do you go about finding eclipse parties? I'm going with some friends and taking a chance on potential clouds in VT and I feel like the whole experience would be a lot easier with others who are more experienced. I want to avoid commercial events being hosted by the city. Thoughts? Also, I have absolutely no experience with photography. Should I even attempt to try photographing? Or just view and take it in? Thank you and either way, I can't wait!!!
I have a Mirrorless Camera with a 150-600. Would you photograph with the lens extended all the way to 600 or should I bring it down a bit?
I took pics of the last eclipse in South Carolina. I set my camera up and took some pics. Keep in mind that the sun and moon are moving and you need to track the eclipse or you may end up with sky and not the eclipse. Ben
I got a little smudge of rubber cement on the Astrosolar film. Do I have to start over? I haven't tried to look at the sun with it yet to see where it falls on the image. Thanks!
Probably not. For me, the partial eclipse shots are not that interesting, and the point of the solar filter is just to find and focus on the sun before the main event (totality) where the filter is removed. If the partial eclipse images are important to you and the rubber cement shows up, it may be worth remaking the filter if you have enough material.
@@NebulaPhotos, thank you so very much! Any reason not to try a little acetone on a Q-tip? I've watched the video 5 times to try to get it right! Thank you for it!
Does it matter that the solar film isn't completely flat? I feel like that should diffract the light a little and spoil the image, but if the film is thin enough I guess the effect will be negligible. Is there a focal length where this becomes a problem? I've also heard of things called solar-rejection-filters, but these seem to be really expensive. Is there a certain focal-length/focal ratio where the filters you describe are not enough?
In my experience, no. Every Baader astrosolar filter I've seen has that bit of wavy-ness to it, as it's not designed to be stretched taut. I haven't heard of any problem using it at high focal length. Many accomplished solar photographers have used it at high focal length for ISS transits very successfully.
Hi Nico…as usual you do such wonderful detailed tutorials…thank you…
Please could you tell me for the Solar Eclipse Timer on the IPad…do I need to have an internet connection once the app is set up from the internet for my locality…because in the field I will have no internet connection?
You do not need an internet connection to use the Solar Eclipse Timer app. If your iPad is a 'wifi only' model (no GPS chip built in) you will need the exact GPS coordinates for your location, and input those into the app manually.
So 3 questions... 1. With using a laptop, what programs are you running for this?
2. Can this be done with ASIair or only on a laptop?
3. When shooting Baileys beads, or the "Diamond ring" segments, do you leave solar filter on or take it off when shooting these as you would for shooting the iris?
1. I'm still reviewing all the options, but some that I know of: Eclipse Orchestrator, Solar Eclipse Maestro (this is what I used previously, only runs on old MacOS), Set'N'C
2. Only in a limited sense - ASIAir won't be able to trigger the camera precisely enough to get all the different eclipse events
3. Filter is off for those
Great tips Nico! Thanks! Will you do some kind of timelapse with the photos that you will take it? If so, how many photos per minute do i have to take to get a good video sequence with the photos during all phases of eclipse? Tks!
Hi Nico, love this series but a quick question. It seems everyone uses stock dslr or Mirrorless cameras, is it possible to use dedicated Astro cameras like my ZWO asi533mc pro? If so what changes do i need to make to use my Astro camera? Thanks
I’ll cover this in a future video. As it stands right now, I’m not aware of any software that works with dedicated astronomy cameras and does synchronization with the eclipse events. This is the main reason why no one uses them for this
Thanks for this great series. I’m wondering if you have a reason for choosing black as the color for your solar filter? I know you said that you’ve made many filters so I assume they’ve always performed well. I was just wondering if black would add unwanted heat? White would reflect but would that affect the image? Does black help by absorbing light?
Hey Nico, yep, its question time - lol. So, if i wanted to use cardboard, since it would be very difficult to make a tube for the collar, could i make a square? As long as it is flush on all four sides against the outer of the lens? Also, does it matter if the shielding is not wrinkle free?
I wouldn't advise that (a square collar). You want the collar to be round to avoid possible light leaks that could fry your sensor. If you don't want to use cardstock / construction paper, there are other materials that can work like PVC pipe, but cardstock is easiest to work with.
@@NebulaPhotos Gotcha. I was looking for cardboard tubes today....surprise, no one carries them.. PVC sounds like a better option - easier at least.
@@NebulaPhotos who knew that astrophotography required some grade school arts and crafts projects. Luckily i still have my calipers from my sheet metal manufacturing days...i do NOT miss those days. But the calipers were $300 sooo they stay with me.
Great informative video's! (Part 1 & 2)
Really helped me a lot with the preparation for Next years total Eclipse.
I have however a question as to the solar filter.
My main thing will be filming the eclipse, (at different focal lengths from wide to super-tele, with Sony Full-Frame system camera's )
Now I've come across two different strengths of Baader Solar film.. ND 5.0 and ND 3.2 ,
I know only ND 5.0 will also be save for observation with the eyes, ND 3.2 is not for visual observation.
However... , which one is better for my type of capturing the eclipse?
I've searched around, but cannot find much info on the use of ND3.2 Baader film...
Thx in advance
Sweet. I can't wait for next episode.
Thanks for the insights Nico!
Do you think it is really necessary an equatorial mount for the eclipse? Since we will not be doing long exposures I was thinking only using an alt-az goto mount (like the az gti goto), and with a rough alignment to the north with a compass could be enough. I will do an alignment experiment once my L bracket arrives for my mirrorless camera but what do you think?
No, an EQ mount is not necessary. An Alt-Az mount or star tracker is fine too. Anything that can reliably hold the telescope and track the sun.
I've been telling my friends and family...you MUST get into the path or totality! It's simply not the same unless you are inside the totality region. This will be my fourth solar eclipse and the third one that I'll attempt to capture. They are far more incredible than what you would normally expect. Here is a video I put together of the annular eclipse back in October '23...
ua-cam.com/video/VVjA2e65zUY/v-deo.htmlsi=OxUylmS5PQc_EzBV
TIP- If you make the square solar film box, with the circle in it for the solar film you can use 3/4 foam cut the the inside of the solar film holder and make the round opening in the foam a little smaller than the lens barrel. Push the foam all the way in up to the solar film holder. It will not all off and is easy to remove and put back in place.
WITH SOLAR FILTER IN PLACE- If you want to be able to align the sun in the viewfinder in seconds, make an alignment tool. Cost MINIMAL. Get a 5 to 6 inch piece of 1/2" copper plumbing pipe, remove the burrs and sharp edges with sandpaper. On one end use white electrical tape, stretch the tape to cover the 1/2 inch hole. Now when your camera is mounted on the tripod, take copper pipe and put it UNDER THE CAMERA NEXT TO THE BLLHEAD MOUNT. Take an elastic band put it around the pipe in front of the camera wrap it around the other side of the tripod mount then back around the back of the camera back onto the other end of the pipe with the white tape. The 1/2 in copper pipe is now being held parallel to your lens barrel. I used a 275mm lens and as soon as the tape on the back was all lit up (looks like a mini partial eclipse when looking for perfect alignment on the white tape) I turned on live view and the sun was in the viewfinder every time. Even if you cannot see the sun with higher magnifications it's very very close.
I will be using my Star Adventurer on Solar setting. Testing Polar alignment in the DAYTIME I just used my latitude and aimed the leveled wedge to where I know Polaris is "approximately" the tracker kept the sun in the viewfinder for 3 hrs and it only moved about one diameter of the sun during that time. I can watch the alignment tool the entire time to see if I am getting too far off course and realign the camera with my ballhead mount.
Get out there now and practice on a sunny day, take some full sun images and record what ISO, shutter speed and F-stop works best for YOUR setup.
Nico, great video and thanks. I was about to order some of the solar film you use in your demo but realized I had previously purchased a high quality glass 6-stop 77mm filter for the telephoto lens I will be using in April. Is the density of this filter adequate for the partial phases of the eclipse or do I need the solar film? Thanks
You need solar film or a 16.5 stop (ND100000) glass filter.
Okay thanks. I got confused since on the exposure calculator chart you demonstrated on Javier Jubier's website, some of the first button options for partial eclipse talk about ND 5 and ND 6 filters. I've ordered some of the solar film as well and will do some tests in the next couple days. I'll be shooting from Llano, TX which looks to be a sweet spot.@@NebulaPhotos
@@zachryall2527Gotcha, yes, I agree that's confusing. Different terminology with your typical photographic ND filters and solar filters. In that case the ND 5/6 is referring to the optical density, not the number of stops.
Really appreciate these videos man. I have a dslr but only have the standard focal length so I'll be renting a 400 lense and flying back home to south Texas to film. The solar lenses are a great cost saving strategy. Think I might use those savings to invest in that solar tracker. Side note, your the lense tutorial was some solid unintentional asmr. 👌🏻
I'm attaching my Nikon D5600 to my Celestron NexStar SE8. Any tips on camera settings? I'm no photographer. Thank you.
do you think that astro software - like ASIAIR - will have any special upgrades for the eclipse?
Would you use your astro camera or a DSLR (as you showed) assuming that you already have a setup.
I doubt it. That would be a huge amount of work to develop. I think it would be much easier for one of the existing eclipse automation softwares to support the astro cameras, but so far I haven't found any eclipse automation software that supports astro cameras. If I do, I will share it on the channel. Until I find something like that, I'm assuming the best camera for the eclipse will be a DSLR/MILC supported by the automation software you plan on running. You could always use your ZWO and ASIAir for the eclipse, but it would be hard to get something as precise as Bailey's beads without software written specifically for eclipse timing.
Does the construction paper have to be black? Great video btw
Yet another awesome video! Btw, if it’s a windy day, do you think that the filter may blow off? I recall the 2017 one in Wyoming was very breezy. Also, if you can’t cut an exactly perfect circle (don’t have that tool), does it matter?
Circle doesn’t have to be perfect. I think my ‘collar’ is long enough that even a very windy day wouldn’t blow it off, but it is a good reason to make the filter reasonably snug (but not tight or it will be too hard to remove gracefully for totality)
Thanks a million for the speedy response
Are you still going to photograph the eclipse?
I've been working on my plan and did not realize how complicated the shooting sequence alone can be. Below is my sequence of events on eclipse day. Obviously, it is specific to my camera but if it is helpful to anyone, please feel free to use it. More importantly, if I have missed something, please do an updated video. Where I use the notation f11x2=f22, I am using a 2x converter so I will set my lens to f11 which will give me an f22 exposure. I didn't want to write f22 and then forget to do thee math in my head during the excitement of the moment
Thanks for some great tutorials!
Pre-Eclipse
Check weather - move observing site as needed
Select a spot to set up tripod,camera, scope, etc
Level tripod, mount
Install sun finder
Install lens
Install camera
install solar filter
Find Sun
Check focus with sun spots - f4x2=f8, ISO 200, 1/2000 sec
Tape focus ring
Verify focus with sun spots - re-focus, re-tape, re-verify as necessary
approaching 1st Contact
Verify solar filter is in place
Lens f11x2=f22
Release mode - self timer 2 second delay
Set auto bracket to 0
1/1000 sec
Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/8000 sec
1st Contact
Use manual trip about once each minute
30 sec B4 2nd Contact
Set lens to f5.6x2=f11
take last shot
@ 2nd Contact
Remove solar filter
Shoot diamond ring, Baily’s Beads
after diamond ring
Lens f4x2=f8
Release mode - Continuous Low (CL)
ISO 800
Set auto bracket to 0
1/50 sec
Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/400 sec
Interval Timer (camera shooting menu) 10 sec interval, 22 shots
30 sec B4 3rd Contact
Release mode - self timer 2 second delay
take last 1 or 2 shots
Shoot diamond ring, Baily’s Beads a current settings
after diamond ring
install solar filter
take one more shot at current settings
Set lens to f5.6x2=f11
take one shot
set lens to f11x2=f22
Set auto bracket to 0
1/1000 sec
Set auto bracket to 7 shots with 1 stop change - camera will now show 1/8000 sec
Use manual trip about once each minute
Yes, editing part 3 right now. There is a lot of good stuff in your plan. If this is your first eclipse, I would suggest either simplifying your shooting sequence or using eclipse automation software to handle all the changes you are talking about. As it is, it looks like you will so busy changing things in camera menus that you won't have time to really observe totality visually, which I think you will regret. While if you use a tethered laptop, the script can take care of all the changes to shutter speed, and do it with perfect timing. Another option is to just skip baileys beads / diamond ring and only get the partial phases and corona (bracketed). That is what I'm going to recommend in part 3 for people who are using a setup with no computer (just interval timer).
Windy days can blow your filters off or your glasses off. Make sure they are secured.
Good tip!
Still waiting to hear ideas for photography of shadow bands. Kind of like astrophotography, but inside-out. Very scarce existing work on this subject, making this a very useful amateur endeavor.
For those who want automation to capture all elements of the eclipse, but who can’t travel with a large scope/GEM, would it be advisable/possible to use a laptop with a star tracker / dslr?
Yes, should be possible. I’ll try it out and report back in a future installment in this series
@@NebulaPhotos thank you! I eagerly await your report!
Also respectfully submitting a request for a tutorial on the use of Set n C software if/when you review the various software options!
This information is great! By the way, how much did the baader astro solar film cost you? I see varying prices online. Thanks for the videos! I’ve learned so much from you.
It looked the the homemade solar filter is not perfectly flat. Does that interfere with the image quality at all?
The wrinkles have zero effect on the image or safety.
I feel very fortunate to be in the path of totality. But knowing my luck it will be super cloudy lol.
So when totality occurs it's okay to take off the filter? That's how you can take pics of the corona
Exactly! I will do some full 'practice run' videos in this series showing this.
Hey if you need a place to shoot, let me know. My property in Texas is directly in the path. #Fredericksburg, TX 30° 24' 26.16" N 98° 43' 16.73" W 4m 23.6s (total solar eclipse)
Hi kdogbigdog - Not sure if this offer is for Nico, or for those of us traveling to your part of Texas. I'm coming from California and considering Fredericksburg or Lampasas as good viewing spots. Any suggestions for someone who has never explored this part of Texas? Up to now, my focus has been on narrow-band photos of nebulas. But this total solar eclipse opportunity sounds too good to pass up. Thank you.
Kerrville is the prime location but even during the Oct 23 eclipse, it was crazy down there. If you want some dark sky and great eclipse. Look at Brady or Mason too. @@craigmarks7025
I would add sunscreen to the essentials list. Stellar video dude!
My question is....The filter isn't straight and has ripples. Don't the ripples affect the way the light reaches your lens ?
Try to get it as straight as possible, but you don't want it to be taut, so some waviness is expected. I don't see an issue in the images.
😅how many stops is that film? can I get a 16 stop filter instead?
Yes, a 16 stop (ND 100000) glass filter will work. Every one I’ve seen for sale notes that it is a solar filter Although I wouldn’t suggest screw on filters for the eclipse, magnetic or friction fit over the lens hood is better so they are easy to take off
Great stuff as always. Planning to use my HEQ5 and WO GT71. How do I polar align during the day or is getting close, close enough? I can always use my phone for rough RA and DEC. Is there something else better? Will use ASIAIR+ Thanks
Nico, you're the man!
2 questions: 1. the homemade filter appears to have slight wrinkles. Will this be apparent in your images? and 2. With the filter in place, will this protect my camera sensor for extended imaging of the sun or should I be cautious of how long I'm pointing my camera at the sun.
1. Nope the wavy-ness is expected and the material is not meant to be stretched taut. It doesn’t affect the images
2. I haven’t had any issues but someone below in the comments mentioned making a reflective disk for keeping direct heat off the camera. Maybe a good idea
@@NebulaPhotos Thanks for the speedy reply! I appreciate all the great videos.
Hi...great video, thanks so much....did u ever do a video about daytime polar alignment...you said you might do one! thanks!
Coming soon (in the next week) in part 4. Will be in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLrzbdmripj1fiZT1_XvxASYDQmEUH_J_a.html&si=MJAQdNvF8amFkzf9