I'm going to try and explain what I am asking but I don't know if it will come across clearly. I am using an RA2 Pro chuck roller for a tumbler. How do you make sure that the tumbler is not crooked on the chuck? I know how to make sure it is level with up and down but how do you make sure the cup itself is centered from left to right. Too far in either direction will make your design too high on one side and too low on the other side so it's crooked. Does this make any sense at all???
I don’t have a lot of experience with the RA2 but the operation is basically the same. Make sure the edge is aligned with the locking jaws when you lock it in. You can also use the rollers on the pedestal to hold the end up if needed. I typically run either the atezr or Atomstack chuck because they are so much bigger and seem to hold better.
Something to try when engraving circular pattern on the face of a tapered cylinder. Without tweaking your artwork, when you enter the diameter of your object in lightburn, use the diameter where the center of the circle will be on the cylinder (ie, tumbler). In doing this, the software should do the math to make the actual engraved circle the same width and height. The circle will still not be perfectly round, but should be much better. This is just my observation of your dilema and my knowledge of basic geometry. Would be interested to the results, just to see if I still have some of my math skills at 66 yrs old. BTW, love your videos and have done a lot of bass fishing on the Coosa in your neck of the woods.
I would like to see the enclosure and bed lift I didn’t see a link for the lift table setup and possibly buy the files from you so I could build one for myself I just bought that same engraver and so far I love it
So I have an ATEZR 24W. I have not been successful in cutting 1/4” 5.5mm MDF. I know all machines are different but I can’t get to cut without major burn. It takes about 8 passes. Air assist used as well. 3mm is no issue. What setting have you had success with. Thanks
Under machine settings, make sure the S- value is set to 1000. Also, hit $$ in the command terminal and see what $30 is set to. Anything less than 1000 is limiting the output of the module. I have had reports of it being set to 250. If it isn't correct, type in the following command $30=1000 then hit enter. Or go into machine settings and change it there.
Do you have a step by step instructions for your enclosure build? I'm more interested in how you have the ventilation setup? I want to mirror your setup in this new year as my first laser engraver.
I can't get rotary chuck to hold on to heavy dollar store tapered glasses. It don't matter if I try to grip them from the small end or the wide end, they slip out of the the chuck. And, it also doesn't matter if I grip them outside or inside. Any ideas?
Hey had a question is there anyway on youtube that I would be able to see who is subscribed to my channel I look but there is no name or anything just the # of subscribers
@@TheClackShack - Thank you. I thought perhaps the name on my account appears to be SPAM (it is only a page that I have dedicated to my deceased brother) and may have had something to do with it. Thank you for great videos.
I’m try to engrave a stainless mug with a handle. When I’m using the chuck roller the handle hits the table. If I flip the chuck 180 the laser will hit the roller. How do I overcome this?
place the chuck on a spacer block allowing more room under the rotating parts. You can flip the chuck head 180 degrees off the back but will need to modify the image to avoid it being backwards. You can then weight the flat part to make sure it doesn't tip over.
You mention to stay away from circles. I obviously don’t listen well. Do you have any tips to get them proportional? Mine seem to be squished vertically and I just can’t seem to adjust it out.
I can’t say for sure without testing but using lightburn, I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t. It may have to be plugged in the stepper rather than the rotary port.
I'm going to try and explain what I am asking but I don't know if it will come across clearly. I am using an RA2 Pro chuck roller for a tumbler. How do you make sure that the tumbler is not crooked on the chuck? I know how to make sure it is level with up and down but how do you make sure the cup itself is centered from left to right. Too far in either direction will make your design too high on one side and too low on the other side so it's crooked. Does this make any sense at all???
I don’t have a lot of experience with the RA2 but the operation is basically the same. Make sure the edge is aligned with the locking jaws when you lock it in. You can also use the rollers on the pedestal to hold the end up if needed. I typically run either the atezr or Atomstack chuck because they are so much bigger and seem to hold better.
Something to try when engraving circular pattern on the face of a tapered cylinder. Without tweaking your artwork, when you enter the diameter of your object in lightburn, use the diameter where the center of the circle will be on the cylinder (ie, tumbler). In doing this, the software should do the math to make the actual engraved circle the same width and height. The circle will still not be perfectly round, but should be much better. This is just my observation of your dilema and my knowledge of basic geometry. Would be interested to the results, just to see if I still have some of my math skills at 66 yrs old. BTW, love your videos and have done a lot of bass fishing on the Coosa in your neck of the woods.
Thanks, I will try it
Will you do a video on how you did the eggs? PLEASE
I just put them in the chuck and engraved them. LoL
I would like to see the enclosure and bed lift I didn’t see a link for the lift table setup and possibly buy the files from you so I could build one for myself I just bought that same engraver and so far I love it
ENCLOSUREZILLA- The best diode enclosure EVER ??
ua-cam.com/video/mN4qYZ4hkqE/v-deo.html
Can this work on the Ortur LM3 with the YRR plug? Mine didn't come with an adapter to the YRR.
If you had the cable maybe, I haven't tried it and can't confirm.
@@TheClackShack Found the YRR adapter cable in the OLM3 box, so it comes with the Ortur LM3.
Could you use chuck in spread mode instead of clamping mode to get graphic to top without interference?
Yes, I have done both ways
@@TheClackShack I keep the plastic clamps and the ring clamps on all the time. They rarely interfere. And yes it can clamp in or out
Atezr KR R1 rotary compatible with xtool ?
With the correct cable and settings, yes
So I have an ATEZR 24W. I have not been successful in cutting 1/4” 5.5mm MDF. I know all machines are different but I can’t get to cut without major burn. It takes about 8 passes. Air assist used as well. 3mm is no issue. What setting have you had success with. Thanks
Under machine settings, make sure the S- value is set to 1000. Also, hit $$ in the command terminal and see what $30 is set to. Anything less than 1000 is limiting the output of the module. I have had reports of it being set to 250. If it isn't correct, type in the following command $30=1000 then hit enter. Or go into machine settings and change it there.
@@TheClackShack Thank you Ill go check it out
@@TheClackShack I did check and it is set to 1000
So what setting did you use to cut 1/4” MDF
Do you have a step by step instructions for your enclosure build? I'm more interested in how you have the ventilation setup? I want to mirror your setup in this new year as my first laser engraver.
Maybe soon...
Nice setup! I got the Ikier version of the identical machine and rotary. Now I have Enclosure Envy! ;-)
You got a new sub, sir!
Thanks. It is my favorite enclosure.
Do you know if the xtool rotary tool works with the Atezr 20 watt?
With the appropriate cable, it will work. I have used it with non-xtool machines before.
You said you have a switch for you Y-axis plug. Do you make those or have plans for them?
I got mine from a guy that makes them. He sells them on Etsy. There should be a link in my original enclosurezilla video. If it’s not in this one.
@@TheClackShack Thank you.
@@TheClackShack I looked here and some of your enclosure videos, did not see it. Is it the one from UniMakerByCode on Etsy?
Did you find a pre-made selector switch? If so could you provide the link. If not what was to best location to source the components.
Yea, it is explained here. Link below. ua-cam.com/video/6EPauHAlAnM/v-deo.html
Nice review. The Atezr is now your "go-to" machine ... until the next one comes along and replaces it 😅😃
You never know..
I can't get rotary chuck to hold on to heavy dollar store tapered glasses. It don't matter if I try to grip them from the small end or the wide end, they slip out of the the chuck. And, it also doesn't matter if I grip them outside or inside. Any ideas?
Painters tape can help add friction between the glass and the hard plastic. A small strip around the top of the glass will help.
So, measure the diameter and multiply by pi.
Yea, just following the book. Also, there is a calculator in lightburn that does it automatically.
@theclackshack where did you get the taller legs for the p20?
I do not have legs, I have a power bed in my enclosure. ua-cam.com/video/mN4qYZ4hkqE/v-deo.html
Hey had a question is there anyway on youtube that I would be able to see who is subscribed to my channel I look but there is no name or anything just the # of subscribers
Should be able in studio. Not sure how many subs you have to have to see it
@@TheClackShack ahh okay I only have 4
@The Clack Shack trying to gain more an more
Is there a reason my comments are being deleted? I commented twice about using pi, but both comments were deleted!
I haven’t deleted anything. I do have a filter on for profanity but don’t see any of your stuff in it.
There is also a calculator built in that allows just entering the diameter. I was just following the books directions.
@@TheClackShack - Thank you. I thought perhaps the name on my account appears to be SPAM (it is only a page that I have dedicated to my deceased brother) and may have had something to do with it. Thank you for great videos.
Can this rotary go with any laser machine like a omtech
Not sure about an Omtech, maybe with the right cable.
Where did you get the lift table?
Amazon, there should be a link in the build video
Great video!
Thanks!
I’m try to engrave a stainless mug with a handle. When I’m using the chuck roller the handle hits the table. If I flip the chuck 180 the laser will hit the roller. How do I overcome this?
place the chuck on a spacer block allowing more room under the rotating parts. You can flip the chuck head 180 degrees off the back but will need to modify the image to avoid it being backwards. You can then weight the flat part to make sure it doesn't tip over.
You mention to stay away from circles. I obviously don’t listen well. Do you have any tips to get them proportional? Mine seem to be squished vertically and I just can’t seem to adjust it out.
@@kevinrollins8697 test and adjust. Use green painters tape
Are you ready to make the jump to the Xtool P2 CO2? Enjoyed the video, see you on Sunday …
A little rich for my blood… making a good profit with my hobby machines for now
Can you use this rotary on the xtool or would it be better to buy their rotary? This 1 seems more robust. Thank you Em
I can’t say for sure without testing but using lightburn, I don’t see any reason it wouldn’t. It may have to be plugged in the stepper rather than the rotary port.
So if the engraving on the tumbler is black....was it too much power or not enough?😅
What color tumbler? Usually you can tell if it’s leaving coating. Marked stainless is usually grey
@@TheClackShack It's happened to me with Navy and like a dark purple. Ty