Contactors buzz when they don't seat all the way. This is caused by low coil voltage, defective coil, or debris, corrosion in the solenoid. They often can be cleaned inside and repaired, but they're so cheap that normally I just replace them.
The bussing noise comes from the oxidation of the armature of the contactor. It really is just annoying. The iron rusts and oxidizes causing the armature to struggle to pull in. Rule of thumb, replace it.
I’ve been told you can replace one that’s buzzing and it will still buzz…. I’ve tried tightening down wires on it and making sure everything is secure and it has helped
Do you help with diy troubleshooting? Upgrade planning? My lines freeze if I have the thermostat in auto. If I put the fan on, lines don't freeze, but the blower motor is continuously running. My system uses gas furnace for heat. Filters are changed regularly. We had some storms in Texas. First storm I changed capacitor that went bad. Next storm made the thermostat go out. I called a company to diagnose. Tech replaced fuse on furnace board and contactor on outdoor unit. Tech connected guages to check outside unit. Pressure was fine and tech said it was not low on refrigerant. AC works, but lines/condenser freezing up with 2 different thermostats in auto. Fan on continuously it's not freezing. Do I need to test the amps on the blower motor and compare the to the furnace panel? Also do I need to test amps on compressor and compare to outside panel? Any help my guy please! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
That at first sounds like a thermostat issue and still think it might be. You're not getting the 24v call to G with the fan in auto in cool mode but for some reason, you get 24v to G from FAN ON AT the stat...I'd recommend calling a trusted HVAC company in your area to be honest. This'll probably be in the back of my head now all day 🙄
Id replace it. Sounds like the contacts are chattering on the high volt side. I always been told if ohming out the contacts anything double or more then your leads indicates they are pitted to all hell
Exactly how would I ohm that out and see since you're talking about the high volt side? Would I just remove high volt power and keep the low volt pulling in the contactor and check across the contacts?
@@AB_HVACcorrect, and another way to check is to take a voltage drop between the line and load side. It should be near zero. If you have like 3-4 volts, that's bad.
@AB_HVAC Disconnect out. And send a low voltage call. When the contactor pulls in you check ohms across the top and bottom of the pole. Looking for a nice steady ohm reading as to whatever your leads ohm out at. Typically leads are about 0.02-.03. I recommend at 0.04-0.05 and up.
The contacts on the contractor are most likely pitted and making that noise. Only way to get rid of it, replace the contractor. The way to check would be to take the face plate off and visually check the contacts.
I never thought or ran across pitting doing that so it's cool everyone telling me that. In the future I'll make sure to keep that in mind. Normally I come across that buzzing sound from when there are some ants on the contactor blocking the contacts (I typically find this issue on Goodman units 🙃)
Contactors buzz when they don't seat all the way. This is caused by low coil voltage, defective coil, or debris, corrosion in the solenoid. They often can be cleaned inside and repaired, but they're so cheap that normally I just replace them.
Definitely should change the contactor when it is buzzing loud when the high voltage is off.
The bussing noise comes from the oxidation of the armature of the contactor. It really is just annoying. The iron rusts and oxidizes causing the armature to struggle to pull in. Rule of thumb, replace it.
So whenever you hear that, it's pretty much on its last leg kind of deal. Better to change it than wait for the thing to just not work
I’ve been told you can replace one that’s buzzing and it will still buzz…. I’ve tried tightening down wires on it and making sure everything is secure and it has helped
Another good job and video
Thanks ✊🏽 appreciate it
Do you help with diy troubleshooting? Upgrade planning?
My lines freeze if I have the thermostat in auto. If I put the fan on, lines don't freeze, but the blower motor is continuously running. My system uses gas furnace for heat.
Filters are changed regularly. We had some storms in Texas. First storm I changed capacitor that went bad. Next storm made the thermostat go out. I called a company to diagnose. Tech replaced fuse on furnace board and contactor on outdoor unit. Tech connected guages to check outside unit. Pressure was fine and tech said it was not low on refrigerant. AC works, but lines/condenser freezing up with 2 different thermostats in auto. Fan on continuously it's not freezing.
Do I need to test the amps on the blower motor and compare the to the furnace panel? Also do I need to test amps on compressor and compare to outside panel? Any help my guy please! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
That at first sounds like a thermostat issue and still think it might be. You're not getting the 24v call to G with the fan in auto in cool mode but for some reason, you get 24v to G from FAN ON AT the stat...I'd recommend calling a trusted HVAC company in your area to be honest. This'll probably be in the back of my head now all day 🙄
What do 240v contacts on contactor..??? Look like
Not changing it is going to cost the customer another service charge real soon
Sounds much better! Good outtro 😂
It’s too easy! 🤙🏽
Id replace it. Sounds like the contacts are chattering on the high volt side. I always been told if ohming out the contacts anything double or more then your leads indicates they are pitted to all hell
Exactly how would I ohm that out and see since you're talking about the high volt side? Would I just remove high volt power and keep the low volt pulling in the contactor and check across the contacts?
@@AB_HVACcorrect, and another way to check is to take a voltage drop between the line and load side. It should be near zero. If you have like 3-4 volts, that's bad.
Oh okay. These are the tips I've been looking for 😅
@AB_HVAC Disconnect out. And send a low voltage call. When the contactor pulls in you check ohms across the top and bottom of the pole. Looking for a nice steady ohm reading as to whatever your leads ohm out at. Typically leads are about 0.02-.03. I recommend at 0.04-0.05 and up.
@chrisdevine5328 cool I'll keep that in mind going forward as a way to test them. Thanks for the tip
why would you leave a loud contactor ! i know is passing 240v but thats annoying 😑
The contacts on the contractor are most likely pitted and making that noise. Only way to get rid of it, replace the contractor. The way to check would be to take the face plate off and visually check the contacts.
I never thought or ran across pitting doing that so it's cool everyone telling me that. In the future I'll make sure to keep that in mind. Normally I come across that buzzing sound from when there are some ants on the contactor blocking the contacts (I typically find this issue on Goodman units 🙃)
@@AB_HVAC Bro, you're not too far from me. I'm in the Columbia area.
@HVACK maaaan what! Just called up your Trane supply house today to get a fan motor. The Augusta store didn't wanna pick up the phone
@@AB_HVAC Yeah, that's normal. LOL
Man DM me on Insta @_abhvac_ I'd love to chop it up sometime
Douche the contactor down with WD 40 and it will shut up works every time.
Douche it?