Back in 1970, I went to work at a tile company in L. A., learned to float my own mud walls, ceilings, floors and counter tops. This "peel and stick today is just a reason to replace two to five years. We would cut the bath sub floor out, place 1x2s one and a half inch below top of floor joists. (the old guys would axe off top of joists into upside dowe vee), install 15 lb tarpaper, then stucco/chicken wire with furring nails. Set floor level thickness below hall floor. Float out bath floor with - pact. Day two dry-pack mud. I have actually done dryrot under bath floor by jacking entire tile and mud floor up to base shoe level and reframed entire bath subfloor. Try that with todays material. The senior tile setter in 1970 still soaked tile in square tub, (as an apprentice, I had to do this), he set tile in grout, horizontal space using string from a large ball of string. I did a lot of tearouts, mixed mud in mud box on the ground, hauled mud in rubber pails. Three yrs ltr, journeyman setter and I pulled up to a job in Beverly Hills, he said, "you're doing the tile in this kitchen today", My first, turned out good. During apprenticeshop I worked with tilesetters plasterers and carpenter. That way I understood all techniques. Hawk and trowel mudboard.
What peel and stick are you referring to? I also came up old school and in a mud box and carried in full five gallon buckets. I would break all the other helpers haha.
Thank you! Yea the mag float pulls too much moisture to the surface when doing deck mud imo. It also doesn’t “cut” very well like the woody does. You made a good move, much easier with the wood float.
Love watching how people in different countries do things, i screed similar in Australia but we don’t use these floor wastes so we do boarders first as we may be restricted to shower angle heights and or the bathroom door height
Been following you on Facebook for a while now, just moved over to finding you here on YT. Love your work, have always done tile work? Is that how you broke out when you first started working?
I’ve seen you guys do this a lot, in CA where there is more movement isn’t there a higher risk or cracking? Would those membrane systems that provide little give be better?
What's the approximate working time for this deck mud before it becomes too difficult to tamper with? I assume one should work in sections before mixing the next bag?
Good stuff I just did one the boss gave me a chance to do it it came out good but the only thing is that I just seen your video but for the next one I’ll try out your method
Looks awesome man, Is that a regular thing that you have to clean the hot mop out of the weepholes, when it's brand new? Would love to see a shorter video Like this on how the pre slope and hot mop and drain all come together. I stopped using gravel around drains because it grows bacteria and such and the growth of stuff around the drain And how's the possibility of early weap holes clogging?they say to use rubber spacers now. Slows growth. I use a plastic $15 weep hole protector on every shower.
I’ve used the screens ebbe provides and plastic but I just prefer the rock. If done properly it would be 10+ years before any signs of failure or build up etc.
And yes the most common failure I believe with these hot mops and mud floated showers is guys don’t check the weep holes. They attach the clamping ring when the tar is still hot and fresh and every time there’s at least one partially clogged if not all four completely clogged 😮
@calidadtools Awesome! Thank you for your response. yeah, we don't have hot mops in Florida. But I have to come in after most plumbing. Companies and disassemble the drain before their silicone dries because they smash silicone on the top of the shower panliner. And on bottom of the second piece and they bolt it down and then all the weep holes are are clogged.🤣.... But I would definitely say longer than 10 years. a lot of these sealed system. Guys, that's their only go to is that weep hoes clog. But I believe and have seen that. A traditional in and out system done correctly with a pre slope, liner, the drain hooked up correctly. They should last for 30 to 50 years. before any type of weepholes are clogging because they're plastic drains and a lot of. The problems with weepholes clogging is with metal or cast iron drains. these new oatey 3 piece Gray drains are great. They have the threading slotted out in 2 places and 8 weepholes and 4 troughs on top and on bottom of the second piece. Along with a plastic weep hole protector or gravel or plastic Spacers. showers are good for at least 30 years. the main key to that is plastic drains nowadays. Also I would love to see how you put that all together with the pre slope, the drain, and the hot mop.
@@calidadtoolssame here. But then I mist the finished pack with a spray bottle before I smooth it. I found it helps hold the surface from having bits of loose sand.
We use an auger so it comes out pretty fluffy and mixes are consistent. But I like it on the dryer side a bit. Too wet and it’s hard to cut as it sorta moves. Just gets messy if too wet.
Quickrete from Home Depot. Way cheaper and better imo then most of the other brands out there. I get the same stuff at SD marble and tile and bedrosians as well.
Back in 1970, I went to work at a tile company in L. A., learned to float my own mud walls, ceilings, floors and counter tops. This "peel and stick today is just a reason to replace two to five years. We would cut the bath sub floor out, place 1x2s one and a half inch below top of floor joists. (the old guys would axe off top of joists into upside dowe vee), install 15 lb tarpaper, then stucco/chicken wire with furring nails. Set floor level thickness below hall floor. Float out bath floor with - pact. Day two dry-pack mud. I have actually done dryrot under bath floor by jacking entire tile and mud floor up to base shoe level and reframed entire bath subfloor. Try that with todays material. The senior tile setter in 1970 still soaked tile in square tub, (as an apprentice, I had to do this), he set tile in grout, horizontal space using string from a large ball of string. I did a lot of tearouts, mixed mud in mud box on the ground, hauled mud in rubber pails. Three yrs ltr, journeyman setter and I pulled up to a job in Beverly Hills, he said, "you're doing the tile in this kitchen today", My first, turned out good.
During apprenticeshop I worked with tilesetters plasterers and carpenter. That way I understood all techniques. Hawk and trowel mudboard.
What peel and stick are you referring to?
I also came up old school and in a mud box and carried in full five gallon buckets. I would break all the other helpers haha.
I don’t think I’ll ever do this but man is it cool to watch. This is an art
Used a mag for a long time, wood float has truly been a game changer. I’m claiming best shower pan video out there 🤙
I’m still on the magnesium game but maybe I’ll try to level up. 😊
Thank you! Yea the mag float pulls too much moisture to the surface when doing deck mud imo. It also doesn’t “cut” very well like the woody does. You made a good move, much easier with the wood float.
Thanks for explaining things as you go! Really appreciate that 🤙🏻
Love watching how people in different countries do things, i screed similar in Australia but we don’t use these floor wastes so we do boarders first as we may be restricted to shower angle heights and or the bathroom door height
Very helpful -- thank you!!
You're welcome!
I like watching your videos at night before bed
Been following you on Facebook for a while now, just moved over to finding you here on YT.
Love your work, have always done tile work? Is that how you broke out when you first started working?
That’s awesome!! But how do you compensate for the thickness of the mud?
This makes me harder than that packed concrete. Great work
That’s really really hard 😳
This is exactly how i do my mud pans
Thanks for teaching us very helpful videos quality craftsmanship
🙏🏻🙏🏻
Sick bro!
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
I’ve seen you guys do this a lot, in CA where there is more movement isn’t there a higher risk or cracking? Would those membrane systems that provide little give be better?
That was impressive
What's the approximate working time for this deck mud before it becomes too difficult to tamper with? I assume one should work in sections before mixing the next bag?
What kind of deck mud do you use?
Bro you're a boss man very educational
Thank you. Appreciate that
Good stuff I just did one the boss gave me a chance to do it it came out good but the only thing is that I just seen your video but for the next one I’ll try out your method
Right on. Only gets easier the more ya do it.
@@calidadtools thanks for your videos
MY MAN!
Looks awesome man, Is that a regular thing that you have to clean the hot mop out of the weepholes, when it's brand new? Would love to see a shorter video Like this on how the pre slope and hot mop and drain all come together. I stopped using gravel around drains because it grows bacteria and such and the growth of stuff around the drain And how's the possibility of early weap holes clogging?they say to use rubber spacers now. Slows growth. I use a plastic $15 weep hole protector on every shower.
I’ve used the screens ebbe provides and plastic but I just prefer the rock. If done properly it would be 10+ years before any signs of failure or build up etc.
And yes the most common failure I believe with these hot mops and mud floated showers is guys don’t check the weep holes. They attach the clamping ring when the tar is still hot and fresh and every time there’s at least one partially clogged if not all four completely clogged 😮
@calidadtools Awesome! Thank you for your response. yeah, we don't have hot mops in Florida. But I have to come in after most plumbing. Companies and disassemble the drain before their silicone dries because they smash silicone on the top of the shower panliner. And on bottom of the second piece and they bolt it down and then all the weep holes are are clogged.🤣.... But I would definitely say longer than 10 years. a lot of these sealed system. Guys, that's their only go to is that weep hoes clog. But I believe and have seen that. A traditional in and out system done correctly with a pre slope, liner, the drain hooked up correctly. They should last for 30 to 50 years. before any type of weepholes are clogging because they're plastic drains and a lot of. The problems with weepholes clogging is with metal or cast iron drains. these new oatey 3 piece Gray drains are great. They have the threading slotted out in 2 places and 8 weepholes and 4 troughs on top and on bottom of the second piece. Along with a plastic weep hole protector or gravel or plastic Spacers. showers are good for at least 30 years. the main key to that is plastic drains nowadays. Also I would love to see how you put that all together with the pre slope, the drain, and the hot mop.
Very informative!! Most def learned something!. Whats your water ratio per 80lb bag of mud?
We go a little less than the bag states as I like it on the dryer side
@@calidadtoolssame here. But then I mist the finished pack with a spray bottle before I smooth it. I found it helps hold the surface from having bits of loose sand.
Good vid bro
Thank you
🔥
Does the mud has to be dry like this???? Just wondering if is better this way or a little more wet????
It’s referred to as “dry pack” that sorta answers the question yea?
Will you show your mixing set up?
Sure.
Hot mop weep holes are almost always clogged. Good video for new guys.
What consistency do you like to make your deck mud?
We use an auger so it comes out pretty fluffy and mixes are consistent. But I like it on the dryer side a bit. Too wet and it’s hard to cut as it sorta moves. Just gets messy if too wet.
Need a thinset slurry underneath dry pack on a concrete slab
Cool. This is over hot mop.
Yikes Larry. No membrainz?
@@calidadtools ah. Looks like concrete
@@jessevennard2640 what?
That Mud pan will always be saturated with water it’s how that system works water in water out.
Is there a brand of Deck Mud you prefer?
X2
Quickrete from Home Depot. Way cheaper and better imo then most of the other brands out there. I get the same stuff at SD marble and tile and bedrosians as well.
Sand topping mix right?@@calidadtools
good job grandpa !! 👍🏼🙋🏾♂️
Nice screedin
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Man, you do great work but we need more hot daddy Jorts camera angles…
Haha I’m on it!!!
Das it
Money
Doesnt that shit burn ur hands?