Add that most starter issues are from the seliniod activating the starter. Many times the contact or at least older ones you could pull seliniod apart and either clean the contact or turn it 180 degrees and be good again. Find that trying to start engine with lower voltage tends to burn the contact. For instance my dodges seemed to corrode at the terminals in cold weather and if not cleaned dont have full voltage going to the starter. Saw a short on YT a couple weeks ago the stater was mounted inside the trans belhousing? All the evidence I need to say they do not want us fixing or own stuff. UTG has the right mindset get vechicals that can be de modernized and keep parts to fix them.
I have literally put on a brand new part, and had it be bad out of the box. Ran through the diagnostic 3 more times, thinking I missed something. Ended up replacing the part I just installed, and it worked. This has happened with parts from the dealership, and aftermarket. If you're at the auto parts store, don't ever let them sell you a doorman part for God's sake! Unless it's from the "help" section.
I had some trouble with my 2003 F150 beginning about 2 months ago. I figured it was probably the EGR DFPE sensor, so I bought a new one and replaced it - no change. In fact, I started throwing more engine codes and kept chasing my tail to figure it out. Ended up swapping the EGR valve too, searching for vacuum leaks. Then on a whim, I bought another DPFE... problem instantly solved, no more codes and the truck is idling smoothly. 🤦♂️
TONY! You just answered the question of why the '71 CB350 I bought cheap a couple of years ago won't start! I bought it from a kid that bought it from the original owner but gave up on it after messing with it for a couple weeks. It was a running bike but he did a tune-up and replaced the points along with an oil change. I messed with it a bit, but pushed it into the corner of the shop while I finished a couple other things. I saw this video, went to the shop and checked the new plugs the kid put in it and BINGO! Resister plugs! I'll put some solid core wires on it this weekend and see if it wants to run now. I bet it will. This isn't the first time you've dropped the answer to one of my problems into my lap. I owe you a Fudgie The Whale or something
Dont use both a resistor plug and a resistor cap, one or the other, or on that bike neither. you can still find non resistor ngk plugs on ebay but they are disappearing and becoming harder to find. .
Every parts-vehicle I've ever got had ended up being much better than the vehicle I needed the parts for and every time I bought a car that was supposed to be in good shape it has always been a mess.
I knew all about the resistor caps and how to make sure whether to use a resistor plug or not. I didn't know what exactly the resistors did in motorcycle ignition systems. I race vintage dirt bikes, so I definitely enjoy knowing this knowledge.
Remember back in the day when you had a failed plug on the road? You pulled the wire away and let it jump an air gap from the wire to the plug or you could do it at the distributer. Sometimes you could do it with the coil wire. You played around a bit and hit the sweet spot and the cylinder would fire and clear out. Usually good enough to get you where you were going without having to deal with a miss
It never dawned on me that stacking resistors would be absolute hell on small engine spark. I got a few poor starting engines that may need a bit of a dive into what plug and cap combo im running. Thanks for the tid bit.
I am having hard time finding conventional auto boots-how many different sizes there are of them and which ones do you order? I live in Europe and availability is close to zero. Will appreciate a link too.
Once again thank you for this good information carburetor and distributor master. Such information is pretty hard to find these days. There's no books, there's no forums , there's no magazine talking about this. What is worse is that finding such information is going to become harder and harder every year.🙏
I've never messed with a motorcycle and I'm not good with small engines. So I have no clue what you're talking about. But now I have the information if the situation ever arises
Spark Plug Cap! I just replaced the cap with a regular terminal and spark plug boot to repair my GF's generator. Radio interference be darned during an emergency.
I have a Honda 90 for a few years that I once saw fire up when I bought it and then immediately did a tune up and it never ran again. I just checked my parts box and low and beer hold i found a non resistor plug.. Palm to face duh. Thank you uncle Tony.
Thanks uncle Tony! I have been working on the line for decades and never knew that about motorcycles etc. I did know that Ford has those in every 4.6 mod or 5.4 mod motor. Ive pulled tons apart to see the condition of the resistor. Alot of times just pulling the coils to chage plugs would result in a misfire I traced to problems with the resistance changing in the coil/ boot with resistor and spring inside. Great tips. I always appreciate the vast knowledge you openly share with everyone.
Two things all my old Yamahas needed when I bought them was spark plug caps and the rubber intake boots that go between the carb and the engine. I always went with genuine NGK spark plug caps and never had a problem.
You’re an encyclopedia uncle Tony Que Dios te bendiga saludos desde Redwood City ca departe e un mexicano que disfruta todos tus videos.I wrote something on Spanish so you know that some Latin people watching you videos to .like my self and I like every single one of them it doesn’t matter the topic saludos a uncle caty to. sorry for my writing I try my best
Back when I worked at a Snowmobile shop that sold Mercury and Polaris sleds, all new units came with resistor caps as they were required in Canada due to their dependence on radio communications due to enormous land mass and dispersed population. Here in Maine, we ripped the resistor caps off and installed regular small engine boots. It made for better plug life...
Always love your videos and willingness to share your knowledge. I have been watching some old carb tuning videos. Have you ever done any on setting up dual quads, 6-pack or other multi carb induction systems? If not, would you consider doing some?
Great information to know! Like many others, I was "schooled" into thinking that resistor type plugs were used simply to reduce the inadvertant production of RF "noise", potentially impacting tv/radio reception and communication equipment. I'll definiely pay closer attention when changing spark plugs on small engine equipment, especially where the owner manual specs a non-resistor plug but all I can find is a resistor type. AND also situations in which an old school rubber boot wire cap is used and the local parts sources only have a non-resistor plug for a resistor plug specified application...I never knew that resistor plugs increased spark quality (except cases where a resistor spark boot was present). One question though... Does using a resistor plug in conjunction with a pre-existing non-solid type plug wire cause much of an issue??? THANKS for taking your time to post this info . I'll definitely seek out your channel going forward!
I feel your pain, at one point in my youth I ended up with 10 60-63 falcons because I wanted 1 parts car lol. Ended up with 1 cherry wagon then sold off 7 drivers and 2 shells with some usable parts left over lol.
I put solid ignition wires on a '78 Volare (California version - a real POS); no problems. Fast forward when the "Spark Control Computer" failed. The replacement was installed and the car ran like crap missing randomly and very undrivable. Took it to a dealer, and they couldn't figure it out. They got some factory guy to look at it and he couldn't figure it out, so they sent a very senior level guy who figured out the replacement Spark Control Computer was a newer digital type instead of a more Analog design. The solid spark plug wires were causing glitches in the digital electronics in the newer design Spark Control Computer. Going back to resistor wires solved the problem. I was lucky that back then, Chrysler wasn't flooded with a bunch of cars with hard to diagnose failures, so they could afford to throw talent at my bazaar problem. Edit: I have personally designed digital electronics that worked glitch free in a somewhat portable system where we were switching 24,000 Volts at ~20,000Amps in ~ 20ns. My stuff won't glitch in the presence of solid wire spark plug wires.
Sometimes when you introduce your content subject, I question your channel. But virtually every time you redeem yourself once again and I am tempted to be enamored. Love you UT! ☝️✌️
I can remember when I was a teenager, this one particular car, every time it went by our ground floor apt. we would get lines and static on our radio and TV. I could even tell when the car misfires. Lol I asked dad why it did that and he said the car probably had copper core wires and plugs. He was NEVER going to sneak by me. Not in that car at anyway.
Tony, you mean spark "gap", not resistor, I think. This additional spark "gap" helps fire partially fouled plugs by (effectively) keeping the spark plug disconnected from the wire until the voltage in the plug wire is high enough to jump the auxiliary gap. Hopefully then, the spark jumps both the auxiliary gap and the spark plug gap at the same time. Champion used to sell spark plugs with a built in "booster gap" inside the porcelain. These had "U" as first letter, Ex: UJ12Y for a 66 Chev w 283. These UJ12Y plugs had a small hole drilled in the terminal to allow some air get to the booster gap. This type plug did help if you had a cylinder that burned oil. Champion says that these booster gap plugs are relatively obsolete as they make RFI (radio freq interference) worse.
If you think about the spark energy as a graph like you said, the resistor “condenses” the duration axis of the graph, magnifying the energy axis. It makes sense because, without a condenser, all a resistor will do is decrease spark energy by limiting current. For this reason, the theory Tony is talking about will only work on a CDI type ignition.
Excellent video Tony well done, it may be worth talking about spark plug temperatures as well as for example you'd probably only be able to get a colder plug for that bike if you wanted to upgrade to iridium plugs which I think for that would be a dpr9eix and what the effect would be.
If you can find non resistor plugs run them in your bike with the stock boots with resistors if not do the coat hanger trick . It has worked for 40 years to make more power. I just fixed a bike last week, piss poor starting ran like crap cold would run ok warm. Pulled the resistor out of the cap/boot and ran great. This is so funny I have to send this to the customer, I didn't change the plugs and he was worried.
I have a 2 stroke 125cc kart engine, the standard cap/boot comes with a 5kohm resistor (not sure what that means exactly) and the spark plug we run also has an R on it. So it seems both the cap and plug both have resistors. Would this be costing power you think?
I had an old motorsiccle that I couldn't start and I did some rewiring on it, and my grandpappy came out to help and when he kicked that bike over, his pacemaker went berserk and blew up and it took grandpappy's head clean off. His head hit the roof of the barn and it put a dent in that roof and it flattened the top of grandpappy's head so bad, we had to have a closed casket at his funeral.
I had no idea, my old virago that was it... Never got a chance to figure it out, guy driving with his knees texting on a flip phone took my bike out lol I do have a 920 project now
if you use a suzuki gs coil you can use aftermarket preformance plug wires, or the cut offs from your taylor or accell wires, and a resistor plug. i do this on all my bikes that are 12V because nifty colored wires makes any bike look like a hotrod. also around here a suzuki gs coil is cheaper than any screw on spark boot.
Ngk now made in china old plugs stamped made in Japan,not anymore,only time will yell if any quality difference,never knew there were resistors in there great info!
Absolutely, but if you have other electronics in the car, you may not have the tells from the rest of the system. You need to do that to every independent device. To protect each individual thing from the pulse. But if they are all independent resistors, that is more places to go bad. Unless its just one for a radio in your car. And no other devices. And if it goes out, for let's just say anotherstyle of ignition/coil, or fuel system. you wont hear it in the radio. And might have issues with boxes and ecu's going bad. The other idea is to try to handle if at its source. Eliminating the energy in the line. That way it lighter, cheaper, easier, easier on the wiring over time, and more fool proof. (And potential easier to diagnose, if you can sence the pulses somewhere else that was supposed to be stopped way back at the engine.) Either tell everyone on one side to wear protective gear every minute of every day, hoping the other side doesn't get lucky. Or try to stop the other side from firing shots, and leave a security monitor system letting you know when they get one through the cracks. (Aka the radio)
Some day I wanna make some PTFE filled high temp silicone insulator caps for my machines. Mine won't have any special resistors or suppression parts though. I don't have radios in any of my trucks.
I am that sick guy that bypass the stock stuff on my ATV and mowers with solid core wires and seek out non resistor plugs. Yes, neighbors complain about their TV reception when in use. I also run point type auto coils (they bite you hard). 1971 cast iron 16hp mower is my favorite! 12v auto coil and a plug wire from an old Farmall tractor. She lights the fire and kills my neighbors TV reception..... Oops. But the factory ignition died so I rigged what I had. Never fouled a plug and she is on her almost 40yrs run. The gap is a bit wider but runs like a clock. Mikel
The resistor is there to allow the coil voltage to build instead of being bled off through the spark plug. It the resistor value is too large, there won't be enough current passing through the resistor to produce a hot (strong) spark. Remember, when the cylinder is on the compression stroke, pressure is increasing in the cylinder, compressing gasses that are essentially an insulator, this makes it so higher spark voltage is necessary to jump the plug gap than would be necessary if the plug was being exposed to air at atmospheric pressure. This is why misfires are more likely to occur at high throttle angles (such as WOT), the spark voltage must increase enough, to jump the plug gap while cylinder pressure is high.
Carbon-core wires are resistive,this is how they decrease RFI. A resistor cap or resistor plug simply lump the resistor into a single location instead of distributing the resistance along the length of the wire. The resistance decreases RFI by slowing the leading and trailing edges of the spark, which decreases the high frequency energy and so the RFI. Resistance cannot amplify the spark. There were plugs with internal gaps (as well as the usual gap); the idea was that if a plug was partially found, the spark could bleed off before the energy built up to the intended level, but the internal gap (which couldn’t foul) would hold the spark energy back until it was great enough to jump the internal gap, at which point the spark energy would reach the usual external gap and spark without bleeding off. It is possible that stacking up too many resistive elements will weaken the spark. Something else that will is when that removable contact in the plug end of the resistive cap vibrates loose, as happened to me on a long road trip. First thing to do if you suspect a bad wire or cap is th ensure the wire is tightly screwed into the cap (and coil), and that the contact at the plug end is tightly screwed into the cap.
Lmao yeah you talking about the RFI issues reminds me of my childhood in the early 70's when everyone would use solid core accel plug wires and non resistor plugs. They would drive by the house and my pops would cuss like hell at the TV. Back when you had TV repairmen to tune your TV, he would call and raise hell a couple times a week and accuse them of being hacks and couldn't fix a simple TV to last a day 😂
I had Mallory Magntion unsuppressed high nickel wound wire because it was guaranteed to have a really hot spark and its "resistant to resistance" [aka tolerated salt and moisture and would not easily corrode]. I don't think those wires are made any more. Apparently they stopped making unsuppressed nickel wires because too many people have digital engine management and too few of them would sell to people like me. They're still 'wound' but they are 500 ohm/ft carbon like everybody else.
guys like you are TOO smart; all these ideas kinda 'log jam' at the mouth. i've got a lot of smart friends and they start a sentence, but realize that they have to insert a parenthetical. (oooh, there's MY big word!) man, that's some good info!
MSD "makes" them , i bought one for my scooter! Seems it was About $15 that made no difference!😢 they made capacitors to go on coil wires that supposedly gave stronger spark, higher current spark. And videos on yt. Wrapping wire around the plug wire , making a crude capacitor to get stronger spark. Not Shure i buy it. The condenser in the ignition basically does the same thing. It prevents voltage drop when the coil is charged to keep a steady current to the coil. For more current/voltage, a better coil is the best option.
Would you be into driver-less in car racing? Real trackside driver control, but drive by remote wire racing. The weight saving should improve times and never any driver body risk. What do you think?
Hey, Tony, we can get BP7ES NGK plugs easily enough in the UK....Online, at least...Which is a sight easier & cheaper than going to a local{?} go-faster store...Keep it all up, excellent stuff....Even if you're only confirming what was known for many decades...Nice to be ''confirmed''......
I don't get the double resistor thing. FSM says motorcycle gets a resistor spark plug, the boot cover/plug resistor cover has a resistor in it. I have Ohm tested them in the past. This is a carbureted 2004 Japanese twin.
Could heat also cause these spark plug caps to fail? Like on an 86 or so Polaris 90 2-stroke quad? It runs great cold, but dies and will not restart when hot.
Working on a Corvair, a honda 74cb550 and gret explanation, i always wondered about these resistor plug adapters,..sooo,i, dropped valve seat on corvair, back to other work, QUESTION can you explain the old coil wire resistor, i am confused, i thought you need 12 volts to coil? i tried petronix, died in less year [corvair gets really hot] so do i need 12 v direct using points? or do i leave it alone and let the resistor do its job? is it 9 volts when warm?
From what I understand, you DO need the resistor if using points and don't want to replace them constantly. It keeps the points and/or condenser from burning up prematurely. 12 volts through the points makes the arc when they open and close far too powerful and will kill them in in short order. That said, most systems bypass the resistor during starting for a more powerful spark when cranking the engine. once the key is released power comes through the resistor.
With the quality of today's auto parts, if I put on a starter, I feel like I'm installing my next broken part.
Add that most starter issues are from the seliniod activating the starter. Many times the contact or at least older ones you could pull seliniod apart and either clean the contact or turn it 180 degrees and be good again. Find that trying to start engine with lower voltage tends to burn the contact. For instance my dodges seemed to corrode at the terminals in cold weather and if not cleaned dont have full voltage going to the starter. Saw a short on YT a couple weeks ago the stater was mounted inside the trans belhousing?
All the evidence I need to say they do not want us fixing or own stuff. UTG has the right mindset get vechicals that can be de modernized and keep parts to fix them.
Truth.. every new part I've put on my f150 is suspect and a form of "imaginary" stress..
I have literally put on a brand new part, and had it be bad out of the box. Ran through the diagnostic 3 more times, thinking I missed something. Ended up replacing the part I just installed, and it worked. This has happened with parts from the dealership, and aftermarket. If you're at the auto parts store, don't ever let them sell you a doorman part for God's sake! Unless it's from the "help" section.
That's why I buy $400 honda starters . You can pay now or pay later
I had some trouble with my 2003 F150 beginning about 2 months ago. I figured it was probably the EGR DFPE sensor, so I bought a new one and replaced it - no change. In fact, I started throwing more engine codes and kept chasing my tail to figure it out.
Ended up swapping the EGR valve too, searching for vacuum leaks. Then on a whim, I bought another DPFE... problem instantly solved, no more codes and the truck is idling smoothly. 🤦♂️
TONY! You just answered the question of why the '71 CB350 I bought cheap a couple of years ago won't start! I bought it from a kid that bought it from the original owner but gave up on it after messing with it for a couple weeks. It was a running bike but he did a tune-up and replaced the points along with an oil change.
I messed with it a bit, but pushed it into the corner of the shop while I finished a couple other things.
I saw this video, went to the shop and checked the new plugs the kid put in it and BINGO! Resister plugs! I'll put some solid core wires on it this weekend and see if it wants to run now. I bet it will.
This isn't the first time you've dropped the answer to one of my problems into my lap. I owe you a Fudgie The Whale or something
Dont use both a resistor plug and a resistor cap, one or the other, or on that bike neither. you can still find non resistor ngk plugs on ebay but they are disappearing and becoming harder to find. .
@@joe6v674 Yes. I know. Having both is why my bike wouldn't start.
Every parts-vehicle I've ever got had ended up being much better than the vehicle I needed the parts for and every time I bought a car that was supposed to be in good shape it has always been a mess.
My '71 H1 Kawasaki, CDI ignition, destroyed TV reception for a city block in all directions! I made sure I rode really slow thru the neighborhood . 😊
Yep,mid 80s as kids on dirt bikes ,my buddies honda elsinore used to make his neighbors TV fuzzy.
No resistor cap or resistor plug.
My 73 H1 was the same way, my brother could tell when i fired it up because his TV would get all goofy, and he lived a quarter mile down the road.
I could key the mic on my cb radio and change the tv channel on my neighbors tv🤣🤣
Yeah, great story and good info. But what we all need to know is, DID IT FIX THE PROBLEM WITH THE ACTUAL BIKE?!!!!!
I knew all about the resistor caps and how to make sure whether to use a resistor plug or not. I didn't know what exactly the resistors did in motorcycle ignition systems. I race vintage dirt bikes, so I definitely enjoy knowing this knowledge.
When it comes to mechanical internal combustion engines, Tony is an oracle. Listen to him. Download his videos.
Remember back in the day when you had a failed plug on the road? You pulled the wire away and let it jump an air gap from the wire to the plug or you could do it at the distributer. Sometimes you could do it with the coil wire. You played around a bit and hit the sweet spot and the cylinder would fire and clear out. Usually good enough to get you where you were going without having to deal with a miss
Back in the '70's I used Packard 440 wires with Rajah snap on spark plug terminals, done deal.
I bought a roll of Packard 440 wire from J.C.Whitney & Co. Over 40 years ago. Still have some on shelf.
.
It never dawned on me that stacking resistors would be absolute hell on small engine spark. I got a few poor starting engines that may need a bit of a dive into what plug and cap combo im running. Thanks for the tid bit.
For a sec....
I thought it was spark plug GAPS
Every small engine that leaves my shop gets that cap removed and a new solid core wire with a HEI style 90 degree connector and boot installed.
I am having hard time finding conventional auto boots-how many different sizes there are of them and which ones do you order? I live in Europe and availability is close to zero. Will appreciate a link too.
Tony, lately I've been turning on your videos and just listen while I work. I love it
Diesel guy here because of uncle Tony.
Love ya brother man
Once again thank you for this good information carburetor and distributor master. Such information is pretty hard to find these days. There's no books, there's no forums , there's no magazine talking about this. What is worse is that finding such information is going to become harder and harder every year.🙏
I've never messed with a motorcycle and I'm not good with small engines. So I have no clue what you're talking about. But now I have the information if the situation ever arises
Spark Plug Cap! I just replaced the cap with a regular terminal and spark plug boot to repair my GF's generator. Radio interference be darned during an emergency.
I have a Honda 90 for a few years that I once saw fire up when I bought it and then immediately did a tune up and it never ran again. I just checked my parts box and low and beer hold i found a non resistor plug.. Palm to face duh. Thank you uncle Tony.
I got something out of it, and thanks!! I may have solved the mystery of poor ignition on some of my antique engines! So thanks, UTG!! 😋👍🏻
Thanks uncle Tony!
I have been working on the line for decades and never knew that about motorcycles etc.
I did know that
Ford has those in every 4.6 mod or 5.4 mod motor. Ive pulled tons apart to see the condition of the resistor.
Alot of times just pulling the coils to chage plugs would result in a misfire I traced to problems with the resistance changing in the coil/ boot with resistor and spring inside. Great tips. I always appreciate the vast knowledge you openly share with everyone.
Keep talking, you are a wealth of knowledge 🙂
When the cap broke on my 2 stroke I just replaced it with a ring terminal. Dont touch it while it runs
Im from the PNW, we call it a "spark plug Boot"
Same here in Australia.
Wow--extremely helpful and educational--again! Thank you Tony!
Two things all my old Yamahas needed when I bought them was spark plug caps and the rubber intake boots that go between the carb and the engine.
I always went with genuine NGK spark plug caps and never had a problem.
You’re an encyclopedia uncle Tony Que Dios te bendiga saludos desde Redwood City ca departe e un mexicano que disfruta todos tus videos.I wrote something on Spanish so you know that some Latin people watching you videos to .like my self and I like every single one of them it doesn’t matter the topic saludos a uncle caty to. sorry for my writing I try my best
Great explanation, thankyou.
Back when I worked at a Snowmobile shop that sold Mercury and Polaris sleds, all new units came with resistor caps as they were required in Canada due to their dependence on radio communications due to enormous land mass and dispersed population. Here in Maine, we ripped the resistor caps off and installed regular small engine boots. It made for better plug life...
Always love your videos and willingness to share your knowledge. I have been watching some old carb tuning videos. Have you ever done any on setting up dual quads, 6-pack or other multi carb induction systems? If not, would you consider doing some?
Thanks Uncle Tony. Very informative.
Great information to know! Like many others, I was "schooled" into thinking that resistor type plugs were used simply to reduce the inadvertant production of RF "noise", potentially impacting tv/radio reception and communication equipment.
I'll definiely pay closer attention when changing spark plugs on small engine equipment, especially where the owner manual specs a non-resistor plug but all I can find is a resistor type. AND also situations in which an old school rubber boot wire cap is used and the local parts sources only have a non-resistor plug for a resistor plug specified application...I never knew that resistor plugs increased spark quality (except cases where a resistor spark boot was present).
One question though... Does using a resistor plug in conjunction with a pre-existing non-solid type plug wire cause much of an issue???
THANKS for taking your time to post this info . I'll definitely seek out your channel going forward!
Again very well done thank you!
I feel your pain, at one point in my youth I ended up with 10 60-63 falcons because I wanted 1 parts car lol. Ended up with 1 cherry wagon then sold off 7 drivers and 2 shells with some usable parts left over lol.
I’ve delt with those plug extender caps.
Arc thru, cant be seen, because they are in a hole.
I put solid ignition wires on a '78 Volare (California version - a real POS); no problems. Fast forward when the "Spark Control Computer" failed. The replacement was installed and the car ran like crap missing randomly and very undrivable.
Took it to a dealer, and they couldn't figure it out. They got some factory guy to look at it and he couldn't figure it out, so they sent a very senior level guy who figured out the replacement Spark Control Computer was a newer digital type instead of a more Analog design. The solid spark plug wires were causing glitches in the digital electronics in the newer design Spark Control Computer. Going back to resistor wires solved the problem.
I was lucky that back then, Chrysler wasn't flooded with a bunch of cars with hard to diagnose failures, so they could afford to throw talent at my bazaar problem.
Edit: I have personally designed digital electronics that worked glitch free in a somewhat portable system where we were switching 24,000 Volts at ~20,000Amps in ~ 20ns. My stuff won't glitch in the presence of solid wire spark plug wires.
Sometimes when you introduce your content subject, I question your channel. But virtually every time you redeem yourself once again and I am tempted to be enamored.
Love you UT!
☝️✌️
I can remember when I was a teenager, this one particular car, every time it went by our ground floor apt. we would get lines and static on our radio and TV. I could even tell when the car misfires. Lol I asked dad why it did that and he said the car probably had copper core wires and plugs. He was NEVER going to sneak by me. Not in that car at anyway.
Thanks Uncle Tony!
We love the side tracking.
Excellent instruction. Thank you!
Hope you and Uncle Cathy rode the storm out okay I'm pulling for you
Good video. Working on my Harley Davidson 1983 FXWG.
Legend mate, clears it up for me
Resistors come in 2, 5, and 10 ohm so you need to check your repair manual for proper spec.
Always informative!
Tony, you mean spark "gap", not resistor, I think.
This additional spark "gap" helps fire partially fouled plugs by (effectively) keeping
the spark plug disconnected from the wire until the voltage in the plug wire
is high enough to jump the auxiliary gap. Hopefully then, the spark jumps both the auxiliary
gap and the spark plug gap at the same time.
Champion used to sell spark plugs with a built in "booster gap" inside the porcelain. These had "U" as first letter,
Ex: UJ12Y for a 66 Chev w 283. These UJ12Y plugs had a small hole drilled in the terminal to allow some air get to the
booster gap. This type plug did help if you had a cylinder that burned oil.
Champion says that these booster gap plugs are relatively obsolete as they make RFI (radio freq interference) worse.
the resistor type plugs make the rfi less and are common now to make less problems with efi (R in the plug spec)
Thank you UT, for the small engine spark ignition info … And There’s Your Dinner!
If you think about the spark energy as a graph like you said, the resistor “condenses” the duration axis of the graph, magnifying the energy axis. It makes sense because, without a condenser, all a resistor will do is decrease spark energy by limiting current.
For this reason, the theory Tony is talking about will only work on a CDI type ignition.
I gotta remember that phrase a another 1 to have enough parts to fix this one lol love it
Excellent video Tony well done, it may be worth talking about spark plug temperatures as well as for example you'd probably only be able to get a colder plug for that bike if you wanted to upgrade to iridium plugs which I think for that would be a dpr9eix and what the effect would be.
If you can find non resistor plugs run them in your bike with the stock boots with resistors if not do the coat hanger trick . It has worked for 40 years to make more power.
I just fixed a bike last week, piss poor starting ran like crap cold would run ok warm. Pulled the resistor out of the cap/boot and ran great. This is so funny I have to send this to the customer, I didn't change the plugs and he was worried.
I have a 2 stroke 125cc kart engine, the standard cap/boot comes with a 5kohm resistor (not sure what that means exactly) and the spark plug we run also has an R on it. So it seems both the cap and plug both have resistors. Would this be costing power you think?
Good video.
I had an old motorsiccle that I couldn't start and I did some rewiring on it, and my grandpappy came out to help and when he kicked that bike over, his pacemaker went berserk and blew up and it took grandpappy's head clean off. His head hit the roof of the barn and it put a dent in that roof and it flattened the top of grandpappy's head so bad, we had to have a closed casket at his funeral.
I'm so sorry for him having bought a middle eastern pacemaker at a good price from a hungarian middleman.
Old granpy still kickin like an ole' flat head engine
I hate when that happens.
Thank's Uncle Tony...
Thats some good info, that i never knew, now to file that away in my diminishing brain cells 😅
Reminds me of my chipper shredder; same problem of not sparking!
I had no idea, my old virago that was it... Never got a chance to figure it out, guy driving with his knees texting on a flip phone took my bike out lol I do have a 920 project now
if you use a suzuki gs coil you can use aftermarket preformance plug wires, or the cut offs from your taylor or accell wires, and a resistor plug. i do this on all my bikes that are 12V because nifty colored wires makes any bike look like a hotrod. also around here a suzuki gs coil is cheaper than any screw on spark boot.
Lol!! I thought this was a vid on spark plug “gaps”….😂 I’m watching anyway.., love the UTG👍
Great video.
Gives diesel MCs a whole new attraction
Really interesting !
Are used to take my old performance spark plug wires and put them on my motorcycle
Not about resistor plugs but I remember booster gap plugs. Do a talk on that to enlighten us??
Ngk now made in china old plugs stamped made in Japan,not anymore,only time will yell if any quality difference,never knew there were resistors in there great info!
That radio noise could be solved by a capacitor in the right place...
Absolutely, but if you have other electronics in the car, you may not have the tells from the rest of the system.
You need to do that to every independent device. To protect each individual thing from the pulse.
But if they are all independent resistors, that is more places to go bad. Unless its just one for a radio in your car. And no other devices.
And if it goes out, for let's just say anotherstyle of ignition/coil, or fuel system. you wont hear it in the radio. And might have issues with boxes and ecu's going bad.
The other idea is to try to handle if at its source. Eliminating the energy in the line.
That way it lighter, cheaper, easier, easier on the wiring over time, and more fool proof.
(And potential easier to diagnose, if you can sence the pulses somewhere else that was supposed to be stopped way back at the engine.)
Either tell everyone on one side to wear protective gear every minute of every day, hoping the other side doesn't get lucky. Or try to stop the other side from firing shots, and leave a security monitor system letting you know when they get one through the cracks. (Aka the radio)
Some day I wanna make some PTFE filled high temp silicone insulator caps for my machines.
Mine won't have any special resistors or suppression parts though.
I don't have radios in any of my trucks.
I am that sick guy that bypass the stock stuff on my ATV and mowers with solid core wires and seek out non resistor plugs. Yes, neighbors complain about their TV reception when in use. I also run point type auto coils (they bite you hard). 1971 cast iron 16hp mower is my favorite! 12v auto coil and a plug wire from an old Farmall tractor. She lights the fire and kills my neighbors TV reception..... Oops. But the factory ignition died so I rigged what I had. Never fouled a plug and she is on her almost 40yrs run. The gap is a bit wider but runs like a clock.
Mikel
The resistor is there to allow the coil voltage to build instead of being bled off through the spark plug. It the resistor value is too large, there won't be enough current passing through the resistor to produce a hot (strong) spark.
Remember, when the cylinder is on the compression stroke, pressure is increasing in the cylinder, compressing gasses that are essentially an insulator, this makes it so higher spark voltage is necessary to jump the plug gap than would be necessary if the plug was being exposed to air at atmospheric pressure.
This is why misfires are more likely to occur at high throttle angles (such as WOT), the spark voltage must increase enough, to jump the plug gap while cylinder pressure is high.
cant have enough of these XJs, right? 👌
Carbon-core wires are resistive,this is how they decrease RFI. A resistor cap or resistor plug simply lump the resistor into a single location instead of distributing the resistance along the length of the wire. The resistance decreases RFI by slowing the leading and trailing edges of the spark, which decreases the high frequency energy and so the RFI. Resistance cannot amplify the spark. There were plugs with internal gaps (as well as the usual gap); the idea was that if a plug was partially found, the spark could bleed off before the energy built up to the intended level, but the internal gap (which couldn’t foul) would hold the spark energy back until it was great enough to jump the internal gap, at which point the spark energy would reach the usual external gap and spark without bleeding off. It is possible that stacking up too many resistive elements will weaken the spark. Something else that will is when that removable contact in the plug end of the resistive cap vibrates loose, as happened to me on a long road trip. First thing to do if you suspect a bad wire or cap is th ensure the wire is tightly screwed into the cap (and coil), and that the contact at the plug end is tightly screwed into the cap.
Magnito, Packard 440 wire, and Rajah ends. None of those problems
Coat hanger.
Better specify "Wire coat hanger, NOT PLASTIC". There are some who have never encountered an actual wire coat hanger.
Just sayin'.
Unless I missed something, the resistor sounds more like a capacitor to me. It stores charge until it collects enough charge to then discharge.
Lmao yeah you talking about the RFI issues reminds me of my childhood in the early 70's when everyone would use solid core accel plug wires and non resistor plugs. They would drive by the house and my pops would cuss like hell at the TV. Back when you had TV repairmen to tune your TV, he would call and raise hell a couple times a week and accuse them of being hacks and couldn't fix a simple TV to last a day 😂
I've had problem with them _plastic plug caps) too...i cut them off and use a straight ignition wire.
I had Mallory Magntion unsuppressed high nickel wound wire because it was guaranteed to have a really hot spark and its "resistant to resistance" [aka tolerated salt and moisture and would not easily corrode].
I don't think those wires are made any more.
Apparently they stopped making unsuppressed nickel wires because too many people have digital engine management and too few of them would sell to people like me.
They're still 'wound' but they are 500 ohm/ft carbon like everybody else.
HOWdy U-T-G, ...
Thanks for the HISTORY Lesson
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
And Kathy doesn't have a Monte Carlo yet.
Bananas needs a Monte
What was the middle thing?
Let's see it run.
I have been seeing the newer vehicles with cop having resistors in there coils
guys like you are TOO smart; all these ideas kinda 'log jam' at the mouth. i've got a lot of smart friends and they start a sentence, but realize that they have to insert a parenthetical. (oooh, there's MY big word!) man, that's some good info!
MSD "makes" them , i bought one for my scooter! Seems it was About $15 that made no difference!😢 they made capacitors to go on coil wires that supposedly gave stronger spark, higher current spark. And videos on yt. Wrapping wire around the plug wire , making a crude capacitor to get stronger spark. Not Shure i buy it. The condenser in the ignition basically does the same thing. It prevents voltage drop when the coil is charged to keep a steady current to the coil. For more current/voltage, a better coil is the best option.
Tony I think you have a hoarding problem for old jeeps, bikes and mopars 😂😂
Would you be into driver-less in car racing? Real trackside driver control, but drive by remote wire racing. The weight saving should improve times and never any driver body risk. What do you think?
Spark plugs used to be B8ES now they’re BR(resistor) 8ES prone to failure
(Cue Jonny Carson voice) I did not know that.
Hey, Tony, we can get BP7ES NGK plugs easily enough in the UK....Online, at least...Which is a sight easier & cheaper than going to a local{?} go-faster store...Keep it all up, excellent stuff....Even if you're only confirming what was known for many decades...Nice to be ''confirmed''......
Did not know this
This video needs a TLDR.
Someone link to a guide of when and what. Tony was too scatterbrained.
Turn the channel
Stoned lol
@@tonyb3864 Bob rules !
BTW what ever happened to the Turbo Slant?
I don't get the double resistor thing. FSM says motorcycle gets a resistor spark plug, the boot cover/plug resistor cover has a resistor in it. I have Ohm tested them in the past. This is a carbureted 2004 Japanese twin.
Could heat also cause these spark plug caps to fail? Like on an 86 or so Polaris 90 2-stroke quad? It runs great cold, but dies and will not restart when hot.
Most likely the ignition coil... Check and clean coil ground connection between engine and coil and ground wire connections.
Now I know why my heart rate went up after I got my pace maker installed and I would cut my lawn with a vintage mower..
Are you reading my brain Tony? I appreciate the info but get outa my head.
Was Tony stoned?
last time I got a plug it had a resistor part that could be screwed off.
Working on a Corvair, a honda 74cb550 and gret explanation, i always wondered about these resistor plug adapters,..sooo,i, dropped valve seat on corvair, back to other work, QUESTION can you explain the old coil wire resistor, i am confused, i thought you need 12 volts to coil? i tried petronix, died in less year [corvair gets really hot] so do i need 12 v direct using points? or do i leave it alone and let the resistor do its job? is it 9 volts when warm?
From what I understand, you DO need the resistor if using points and don't want to replace them constantly.
It keeps the points and/or condenser from burning up prematurely.
12 volts through the points makes the arc when they open and close far too powerful and will kill them in in short order.
That said, most systems bypass the resistor during starting for a more powerful spark when cranking the engine. once the key is released power comes through the resistor.
Ignition resistor is for old Chrysler only
@@fastinradfordable ahhh no. they are in all old cars. ask the doge dude tony
@fastinradfordable no gm builds resistor into wire feeding the coil on points distributor.
Wonder if my solid core Taylor plug wires will irritate the Tesla sitting next to me at a stoplight....😂
It is not the resistor! It is the induction resistor coil in the cap that makes that spark, hven it got the energy from the low energy coil.