Thank you for your awesome videos! I like how descriptive, yet straight to the point they are. I just finished setting up my darkroom to do prints. Can’t wait to order some plates in the future and give it a go!
Great video as usual. Have you ever considered writing down each of your experimental processes and Turing it into a book? “Lost light Art processes” would be really useful! Keep up the fab work.
This is great. I was having problèmes with the traditional reversal méthode, and i hâte using some of those chemicals, so this is right up my street. Many thanks.
Timing had Nevers been a problem for me, Luthier, but coating thé plates just that thin had been a chalange, and as I Saïd some of those chemicals are deadly. P.S. I might be able to get you a radio système for your microphone problem. Will be in touch soon about that.
@@phillipP8848 I meant timing for running the test when you get things figured out is becomes very simple. Yeah forgot to mention the hazardous chemicals! Oh a microphone thats great! Thanks
Very cool stuff. I've never seen this done so precisely. Thanks. You could always just do a plate to plate contact print to get a positive on glass - but that wouldn't be such fun!
Well that was perfect timing! Just walked in from shooting some dry plates at letchworth state park set down the stuff and had this video to watch. Thank you for the knowledge and taking time to share it. I have a Kodak No.3 model H I love shooting with it. I wish I could find a working combination back for shooting dry plates with it so I didn't have to use a changing bag every shot. I'm going to have to try this
Just had a thought I don't own one or have any clue how to design anything for them. But if I had a 3d printer I bet I could print a back for plate holders.
Oh well I am glad I got the timing right. Yes there is so many beautiful vintage cameras out there that could benefit from some adapters. But there is to many for me to make adapters for all 😬 If you have a 3d printer just go ahead it shouldnt be hard to design...
Steve Lloyd at Chroma Cameras does 5x4, etc dry plates. Have a chat with him he can do custom ones I 🤔 think. He makes hand held 5x4 cameras through to traditional 5x4 and does 6x9 backs
@@lostlightart6064 the design should be done if I could find someone with an original dry plate back for it I could copy it. It uses 1/4 plate negatives and kodak plate holders. I don't think I have a 3d printing place near me I'll have to look probably a couple hours away maybe. Didn't think of that thank you again
Question: I have just found your channel and find it very interesting and learn a lot. Thanx. One question: your darkroom light is “just” led- red light strips? 🤔
the SAME happened to me (a positive have being developed when it should be a negative) using my laboratory camera one day. I was shocked and puzzled and after talking with some friends the conclusion was some kind of solarization had happened.
Great idea and great Job, Bro ! (by the way, I guess you stay in Europe. I'm just wondering, how someone in Asia could purchase that ZEBRA dry plate products. I've found one source in SLOVENIA. So, I'm guessing that you also live in SLOVENIA) . In 1976 (more tha 140 years ago), when I was still in junior high school (8th year school) I've learned some 'old technique' Black-White photography from my elder brother. From him, I have learned and practiced to set up a "dark-room" in our parent house, to develop negative film, and to "print" the "final" B & W picture on phorographic papers using both the "Magnifying / Vergroot projector" and using simple "direct contact" exposure. At the time I had even created a simple projector for magnifying printing.
I read about Sabatier effect in the early 1970s, but only ever attempted it once, and go the standard "solarized" negative-on-positive result. I'm interested to see how this goes -- perhaps it'll be a good use for a fifty year old box of 4x5 Tri-X Ortho I've got sitting around...
@@lostlightart6064 I haven't tested, but I doubt it would. Modern films are almost incapable of loss of density via overexposition, likewise the majority of modern paper. Perhaps a really classic emulsion, like foma 100... But even then I wouldn't put my two cents on it.
I have heard of the Sabbatier effect in my dealings with wet plate work when plates are taken out into light after inadequate washing/stopping after development prior to fixing.
Do you think the ratio of the film exposure to the flash exposure needed to make a 'good' plate might be a constant? From the info given, I calculated the film exposure to be at 6.4eV, but not enough info to calc the flash eV. If so, you could predict the Flash time/intensity needed based on your film exposure, or perhaps the film exposure subject brightness range. Enjoyed this video! Made be think of fun things to try.
Thanks, I enjoyed your video as usual. I do have one suggestion. Sometimes it is difficult to hear you because you are apparently using the on camera microphone. You might consider the use of a wireless microphone to improve sound quality. Thanks!
Hey Larry. Thanks for the sugestion. I do have a on camera mic but when its turned away from my face it is catching more of the ambience sound not mine. Anyway I have to invest in a on body mic!
Wait.. making autochromes.. again? That's super impressive, along the lines of developing Kodachrome at home.. or worse. To complicated to be a normal product though, probably. In other news, I can't wait to try this using a photographic paper in my 4x5.
Yes Autochorome! I have done a few a year or so ago but yes there is zillion things that have to be executed perfectly in order to get colours. Good luck with your paper positives!
@@lostlightart6064 Paper positives came out.. weird. It's really hard to not solarize the highlights and the contrast is fairly high, hard to get it just right. I got some pretty funky dark skies and positive foreground though. Seems like you might be able to control contrast by flashing earlier and exposing the plate more, but my setup wasn't stable enough to compare head to head. I made about 15 tests
@@lostlightart6064 Please, keep us in the loop! These were likely the most beautiful process ever. I imagine the availability of extrusion and cheap ten ton presses makes this a lot more viable than thirty or so years ago.
this is magic stuff. thank you for sharing yr results.
Thank you :)
I love photography.
This has been fascinating and a great tutorial.
Thanks so much.
Thank you. I am glad you enjoyed it 😊
Fantastic video. And the outcome! Perhaps not for every subject, but I'm sure that portraits and perhaps still life can benefit of this technique.
Thanks Marques!
Done Sabatier effect on a print -Iove it although I haven’t done it in ages
Yes such a beautiful and satisfying technique ❤️
As always Nejc, great video!
Thanks Reynaldo 🙏
Congrats on making it a full time job!
Thank you Andrew!
Congratulations from Brazil, great job!
Test 3 actually looks like a cool effect
Your are an inspiration!
Thanks Seth!
Thank you for your awesome videos! I like how descriptive, yet straight to the point they are. I just finished setting up my darkroom to do prints. Can’t wait to order some plates in the future and give it a go!
Thank you for the kind words 🙏
Thanks for the video!
You are welcome 🤗
This is most useful, thank you and well done.
Thanks I am glad you enjoyed 😊
On my way to the darkroom right now to load some plates! Great video!
Yesss! Enjoy your shoot!
Great video as usual. Have you ever considered writing down each of your experimental processes and Turing it into a book? “Lost light Art processes” would be really useful! Keep up the fab work.
This is great. I was having problèmes with the traditional reversal méthode, and i hâte using some of those chemicals, so this is right up my street. Many thanks.
Yes this is a very "simple" technique compared to reversal process. Simple chemicals but maybe a tiny bit more precise work with the timings
Timing had Nevers been a problem for me, Luthier, but coating thé plates just that thin had been a chalange, and as I Saïd some of those chemicals are deadly. P.S. I might be able to get you a radio système for your microphone problem. Will be in touch soon about that.
@@phillipP8848 I meant timing for running the test when you get things figured out is becomes very simple. Yeah forgot to mention the hazardous chemicals! Oh a microphone thats great! Thanks
Very cool!!
Thanks 🤗
Very cool stuff. I've never seen this done so precisely. Thanks. You could always just do a plate to plate contact print to get a positive on glass - but that wouldn't be such fun!
Thank you 😊
amazing, thanks for doing this. I have used your plates under the enlarger to get positive glass images, but this method looks like a lot of fun.
Yes it is! Thanks 🤗
Well that was perfect timing! Just walked in from shooting some dry plates at letchworth state park set down the stuff and had this video to watch. Thank you for the knowledge and taking time to share it. I have a Kodak No.3 model H I love shooting with it. I wish I could find a working combination back for shooting dry plates with it so I didn't have to use a changing bag every shot. I'm going to have to try this
Just had a thought I don't own one or have any clue how to design anything for them. But if I had a 3d printer I bet I could print a back for plate holders.
Oh well I am glad I got the timing right. Yes there is so many beautiful vintage cameras out there that could benefit from some adapters. But there is to many for me to make adapters for all 😬 If you have a 3d printer just go ahead it shouldnt be hard to design...
Oh I see you dont have a printer. Maybe you can just design it and 3d print it in a shop near to you?
Steve Lloyd at Chroma Cameras does 5x4, etc dry plates. Have a chat with him he can do custom ones I 🤔 think. He makes hand held 5x4 cameras through to traditional 5x4 and does 6x9 backs
@@lostlightart6064 the design should be done if I could find someone with an original dry plate back for it I could copy it. It uses 1/4 plate negatives and kodak plate holders. I don't think I have a 3d printing place near me I'll have to look probably a couple hours away maybe. Didn't think of that thank you again
That's amazing. What does the plate look like from the other side?
Very Cool! Kentucky Darkroom will be trying this
Nice thank you for sharing 👍🏿🔔
Your welcome 🤗
Very nice video!!!
Thanks Christos 💙
Question: did you make or buy your dark room sink? If purchased whats the brand? If you made it what is the material you used? Thanks.
Hey,
Yes I made it myself using wood and epoxy to make it waterproof 😉
Do you think this would be possible with arista ortho lith film? (Iso 6)
In theory it should work with any silver gelatine material so yeah give it a try!
Question: I have just found your channel and find it very interesting and learn a lot. Thanx.
One question: your darkroom light is “just” led- red light strips? 🤔
the SAME happened to me (a positive have being developed when it should be a negative) using my laboratory camera one day. I was shocked and puzzled and after talking with some friends the conclusion was some kind of solarization had happened.
Great idea and great Job, Bro ! (by the way, I guess you stay in Europe. I'm just wondering, how someone in Asia could purchase that ZEBRA dry plate products. I've found one source in SLOVENIA. So, I'm guessing that you also live in SLOVENIA) . In 1976 (more tha 140 years ago), when I was still in junior high school (8th year school) I've learned some 'old technique' Black-White photography from my elder brother. From him, I have learned and practiced to set up a "dark-room" in our parent house, to develop negative film, and to "print" the "final" B & W picture on phorographic papers using both the "Magnifying / Vergroot projector" and using simple "direct contact" exposure. At the time I had even created a simple projector for magnifying printing.
I read about Sabatier effect in the early 1970s, but only ever attempted it once, and go the standard "solarized" negative-on-positive result. I'm interested to see how this goes -- perhaps it'll be a good use for a fifty year old box of 4x5 Tri-X Ortho I've got sitting around...
Yes like I said in the video Dry Plates seem to work great with Sabattier producing really good complete positives
Can you try an 8x10 version?
Sure I just didn't want to ruin so many 8x10s for the test I have done
Should this work with color photo paper, too?
Just wondering if this would work with normal film...?
Most definitely. Usually it works the best with fast films that have large grain 😉
@@lostlightart6064 I haven't tested, but I doubt it would. Modern films are almost incapable of loss of density via overexposition, likewise the majority of modern paper. Perhaps a really classic emulsion, like foma 100... But even then I wouldn't put my two cents on it.
I remember being taught this in the 1980s, but on paper instead. Fun technique but takes ages to get the balance of the two exposures correct.
I didnt find it as hard with dry plates it just takes a bit of methodological work 😊
Can you do this with paper negatives?
Well I shot some of them today also ill have to try it
Yes you definitely can. Actually paper is most frequently used with this techniqe 😉
I have heard of the Sabbatier effect in my dealings with wet plate work when plates are taken out into light after inadequate washing/stopping after development prior to fixing.
Interesting thanks for sharing :)
Do you think the ratio of the film exposure to the flash exposure needed to make a 'good' plate might be a constant? From the info given, I calculated the film exposure to be at 6.4eV, but not enough info to calc the flash eV. If so, you could predict the Flash time/intensity needed based on your film exposure, or perhaps the film exposure subject brightness range.
Enjoyed this video! Made be think of fun things to try.
Thanks, I enjoyed your video as usual. I do have one suggestion. Sometimes it is difficult to hear you because you are apparently using the on camera microphone. You might consider the use of a wireless microphone to improve sound quality. Thanks!
Hey Larry. Thanks for the sugestion. I do have a on camera mic but when its turned away from my face it is catching more of the ambience sound not mine. Anyway I have to invest in a on body mic!
Wait.. making autochromes.. again?
That's super impressive, along the lines of developing Kodachrome at home.. or worse. To complicated to be a normal product though, probably.
In other news, I can't wait to try this using a photographic paper in my 4x5.
Yes Autochorome! I have done a few a year or so ago but yes there is zillion things that have to be executed perfectly in order to get colours. Good luck with your paper positives!
@@lostlightart6064 Paper positives came out.. weird. It's really hard to not solarize the highlights and the contrast is fairly high, hard to get it just right. I got some pretty funky dark skies and positive foreground though. Seems like you might be able to control contrast by flashing earlier and exposing the plate more, but my setup wasn't stable enough to compare head to head. I made about 15 tests
@@lostlightart6064 Please, keep us in the loop! These were likely the most beautiful process ever. I imagine the availability of extrusion and cheap ten ton presses makes this a lot more viable than thirty or so years ago.
I have no words.
Its like magic.
I need to know the science behind.
Add light to erase light...
Nop cant help it.need to know..