5 Ways To Connect a Generator To Your House
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- My Favorite Tool: amzn.to/3NIFJuO
1 - Transfer Switch for Individual Circuits: amzn.to/322OmZi
2 - Main Manual Transfer Switch: amzn.to/34mXg5j
3 - Generator Breaker Interlock Kits: amzn.to/2qZEwue
4 - Generlink Meter Mounted Transfer Switch: amzn.to/36mdHAR
5 - Generator Extension Cords: amzn.to/34nDKpl
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Here I show 5 ways to connect your generator to your home, shop, or property using 5 different methods. All have pros and cons but generally I recommend going with the breaker interlock option if it meets code in your area. Always consult with your local inspector to ensure compliance with the regulations in your area.
Thanks for watching and subscribing! As an Amazon affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
0:00 - Generator To House Intro
0:08 - 1: Generator Transfer Switch Indiv. Cirquits
3:38 - 2: Main Manual Transfer Switch
7:16 - 3: Generator Breaker Interlock Kit
8:13 - 4: Generlink Transfer Switch
9:12 - 5: Generator Extension Cords
11:13 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
Blessings from Minnesota,
Ben
The best DYI video on how to correctly connect my portable generator to my house. I chose the breaker interlock method, which was easy and the least expensive. Thanks for teaching this old soldier some new, useful, and safe lessons for keeping the lights on in a black out. Blessings to you and your family!
Even tho I have my place and my Mom's hooked up with the Generac Automatic whole house transfer switches, I still watched both of your hook up videos in order to help others that want a less costly system than ours. Well done on both. I find you knowledgeable and easy to understand. I've learned little things that will help in the future and what to look out for.
yep... new favorite channel.
I'm a machinist starting my first shop in a shipping container and I'm at the point now where I need to install electrical and stop moving extension cords around.... 208 three phase lets goooooo
Your content has pretty much everything I need to get foundational concepts with the ability to know what I'm looking for on more specific research. Thanks dude.
Since Generlink is not available in our area we went with the "Interlock" option. It's fairly easy to install (make sure you buy the correct one for your panel), they give much greater flexibility regarding which breakers you may want to use/not use during different seasons (heat or A/C) and the overall price is pretty reasonable. Depending on your personal experience and local laws, you can install it yourself fairly easily and quickly. Thanks for a very informative video, well done.
Nice video Ben and the cat is great! … Right now I'm using the last method - extension cords (we very seldom lose pwr), but plan on adding a transfer switch later. I like the interlock kit like you used the best. … your doing a great job - Keep doing what you do!
I have the interlock system in my homestead. I also built a wooden generator shed and have our generator converted and running off our homes natural gas service. It was the most cost effective way for us to do it.
Sounds like a great setup! Having a natural gas generator is something I wish I could have but alas that usually is not possible in rural locations like where we live.
When it comes to electrical tutorials, your videos are the best!
Awesome Video! I never heard of the Generlink until you mentioned it. Cool idea! I had to search for a question I had.. "GenerLink detects when a generator is operating and automatically disconnects from the utility grid, eliminating dangerous backfeed."
Yeah it is pretty neat and seems like a pretty "smart" device. Of course the "smarter" it is the more there is to go wrong but I am sure it is a well built piece of equipment especially since it is so vital that it ALWAYS work properly in order to prevent back feeding onto the grid. It sounds like installation cost (since this is not a DIY option) varies widely from area to area so depending on that it may or may not be a good option.
Con for interlock it seems for me would be a full panel with no spare double pole breaker locations. I maybe able to do two tandem breakers on some 15 or 20 amp circuits !
I love your videos and your thorough explanations, including (sometimes) asking questions to the audience. Brilliant. For #1 the load side switch .... 8 bolts to the wall??? Do you have a problem with your boxes running away? :)
A friend of mine has a different hybred system.
In the main breaker box is a 50 amp 240 breaker that feeds a double throw breaker box, which then goes to breaker box “B”.
Anything that you want to run off the generator, has to originate from breaker box “B”.
Breaker box “B” feeds furnace, some lights, well pump, refrigerator, freezers, some outlets.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
I know the cat is really the house electrician! LOL Enjoyed the video!
The sizing of the AWG of your extension cord is also dependant on the length of the cord. Size DOES matter - always size up from the starting amps, not running amps and size up for longer lengths of cord. Your refrigerator motor will thank you by not burning up. Also, turn breakers on slowly - let loads start up one at a time. A typical generator can not start everything up at the same time. Trying to do that will burn out things you are trying to power up.
Also remember a generator will run better on propane or natural gas, but the power output will be lower than running on gasoline.
Natural gas has the least BTUs, thus less power to run the load, but if hooked to a gas main will not require refueling. Tri-fuel kits are available for most generators and are well worth the money. Gasoline is dirty, gummy, sputters, and is dangerous to refill on a hot generator. Propane and NG run clean, don't sputter, don't gum up, and are generally far less expensive to run on.
Hey video man as a fellow electrician I am glad to see that you are giving average people good advice. There are a lot of videos on you tube that as a electrician make me cringe. Great job
Great video*
Good job love watching your videos!!!
Ben do you need to break the neutral as well as the 2 hots in the disconnect panel after the meter socket
When I built my house I had a generator ready load center installed. It can be used with a portable generator or an automatic transfer switch and a permanent standby generator. If I decided to upgrade to an automatic standby generator the switch just snaps into the breaker box. 200 Amp 42-Space 54-Circuit Main Breaker Generator Ready Load Center by Siemens
I wanted to go with a Generlink - but ran into issues almost immediately. First off, pulling the meter out of the socket is not a DIY job. It is both illegal and wicked dangerous to try to DIY it. So, I reached out to a number of electricians to get quotes. Long story short, they all wanted huge amounts of money. One guy wanted to charge me $250 to pull the permit (which costs $75), $650 for the Generlink (which is the normal retail price), and $500 labor. He explained that although it would only be a 15 or 20 minute job, he was going to have to have someone in his office spend many hours trying to get a statement from the utility that they would allow the use of the product.
After getting a similar story from 2 other electricians, I went with the interlock solution and did the job myself for less than $300 (including the $75 permit).
I totally agree that this is NOT a DIY project for sure. I'm sure it all depends on your location as to weather the electricians, inspectors, and utilities, are familiar with the Generlink. Overall I think the breaker interlock is better like you ended up doing but in some situations the Generlink might be a good fit IF the electricians charge a reasonable amount to install it. Thank you for sharing your experience!
I just checked with my friend a licensed electrician he called Florida Power & Light they said they don’t allow them !!!!!
Seems crazy to me. No safer way to protect utility workers in case of outages. With hurricanes here we loose power even if we aren’t directly hit. The generator would be outside and no cord running through a window or door that would be letting in exhaust fumes.
I am thinking of installing a Generlink device to my meter. I have a mobile home. The generlink device would be perfect for my application.
I have a transfer throw switch, the way I am using it is like an AB switch where A is a 50A generator connection, B is a 30A generator connection. Since this is now considered the first power entry point to the property during a power outage do I need to add a bonding screw? Do I need to add a Earth ground Rod?
The main panel and generator input is at opposite sides of the house.
Another awesome video man, thank you!
Amazing and insights you got there...keep up the vids man!
Thank you! I'll do my best. Thanks for being a subscriber!
Been enjoying your helpful videos. My backup goals could be met with a 30 amp 10 position transfer switch (like a Reliance 310c). HOWEVER, some of my 10 circuits are on the main panel and some are on a sub panel. As I understand it, I can't do that because of the sub panel ground/neutral setup. Could I have electrician move my incoming feed to a separate panel with a 3-way switch where I can connect the generator?? Thanx again for your great videos!!
That interlock system wouldn't fly in Australia because we don't use the same panel geography but when I had an electrician come and set up my board to accept my new genny I didn't know squat about this aspect of electrical work, even as a lapsed electrician myself (many years past) but I have to mention that there is another way which you Ben would like although it's a bit dearer than an interlock you do get the same effect. My electrician installed a two way switch which breaks the mains, both active and neutral, then connects the busbar active and neutral only to the genny socket. That way, it's either one or the other and can never be both.
Also I get to choose which circuits I want to power. I had him install a bunker light that has its own circuit and breaker and continues to stay connected to the mains. With an outage I flip its breaker to ON but with no mains power the light remains OFF.
When mains power is restored this bunker light (easily see from inside the house) lights up and I know mains power has been restored. I haven't seen this method used in any US based video as yet and I wonder why - it's so easy to install.
Thank you
Was that the ghost of " generator past " @ 1:02 ... Lol ... Scary but good vid ... Even that cat is haunted at the end ... Ohhh that's funny ...
Is there a video to show how to install a Genelink from your channel, Ben? Thx
It seems like at the 50 A power input plug on the post the ground wire is jumpered to neutral in order to plug in cheaper power generators, where the star point of the generator is not earthed.
@Benjamin Sahlstrom
Look at all those wire nuts in the Electrical Panel !!
Just wondering what NEC says about it !
Ben on #2 you are not using a 30 amp breaker can this be done with a shut off box feeding the main panel without auxiliary it’s just on and off
A couple of comments...I installed a 30 amp plug on the outside of my home and ran two standard receptacles from it...one upstairs and one in the basement. When the generator is not connected these receptacles are dead but when energized allow me to plug in varies items in the home without worrying about cords going through windows under doors etc. works very well but limited capacity.
I also have a 50 amp circuit in my panel and an outside plug for my tractor/pto 15kw generator. I have a disconnect switch in the panel that only allows the 50 amp breaker to engage with the power off. However I am curious about the neutral wire as it is not switched and connected both to the generator and the electrical service. I assume the neutral current will follow the path that is feeding the circuits and not become an issue. Is that correct? I also personally don't believe all electric breakers need to be shut off but you need to be very aware of your generator limitations and not overload the generator with your power demand. Any comments regarding these items would be helpful.
Excellent video and explanation on everything.
Great video.
Wow, I have seen those meter heads that stick out from the meter socket on some properties, and had absolutely no idea those were for generator hookups. Just thought it was some funky kind of meter. Lol
Yeah they seem like a pretty great option actually! Just a bit spendy. It is also nice since the meter is almost always outdoors so you can just set your generator out in the yard next to your meter area.
sometimes their whole system surge protectors
Those things are by far the easiest way to go but some electric companies don't allow them, like pg&e and they are beyond expensive. About $700 if I remember
There is another option for connecting a generator which I would like to see in a video. If you install a sub panel adjacent to a main panel, you can purchase manual breaker interlocks in the sub panel to be fed by a generator. I would like to see an example of this and if you relocate breakers from the main panel to the sub panel, how is the wiring done correctly. If you wire nut the hot wires from the main breaker to get them to the sub panel, do you need to extend the neutral wires as well since they are essentially bonded together between the sub panel and the main panel.
Hi, do you know where it's possible to order a "federal pioneer generator interlock kit" ?? Thanks!
I had solar panels hooked to batteries, invertor and to a transfer switch connecting to a few pertinent breakers in my main panel. Solar works great but with the snow covering my panels during winter months rendering it useless in the snow.
use heat tape on your panels during winter time or use a recirculating heating system
Good Job Ben🤩👏👏👏
I'm trying to figure out my system we moved into a house recently with 2 transfer switches already installed and in the same metal box of each switch to the left is what looks like a hole where a whole electric meter would fit however in it's place is a clear plastic plug with a strap on it, maybe it's an emergency turn off?? who knows but the switches are labeled for generator. I believe one is for the main house and the other is for the well pump and garage. The wires coming from these transfer switches have been cut where the old generator was removed so I guess i need to hard wire straight to the gen... can you even do that??? or splice the exposed wires into a plug that I would then run into the generator. Since there are 2 sets of wires do I make 2 plugs or is there a way to hard wire both sets of wires into the generator?
Hi Ben , I have a generator which only product 120 volts can you show how can I use a inter lock kits?
Is there a way to do the same thing but instead of using the generator use solar panels system?
Are you planning on getting a Tesla Cybertruck? If so, would you be able to use it as your backup instead of a generator assuming that the Cybertruck has the requisite AC outlets?
At my previous rural residence, I had the manual Generlink transfer switch between the the utility meter and the meter housing (option 4). I had it for 10 years, maybe used it 15 times.. and then it stopped working. A rather expensive ($1200 CDN) that did not last. Very disappointed. Currently I have a sub-panel with the interlock transfer switch (Federal Pioneer) but the interlock mechanism requires a simutaneous "throw" between two breakers connected by a bar mechanism. That mechanism doesn't always work and can be very frustrating. I want to replace it.
Great Video, If a generator can be used using a manual transfer switch with branch circuits selection, can a 2nd generator be connected the same way via a 2nd transfer switch to select other branch circuits not covered by the 1st generator? Not paralleled.
Easier to buy a bigger generator or run two generators bonded together.
A reminder here that with a sufficiently sized generator, most all circuits can be powered by the genny. I'm talking about 20kW or larger beasts and these are usually set up as prime power or called standby (rather than backup power).
They can run the whole house or smaller shop and use an ATS (automatic transfer switch) so you don't have to do anything at all.
Ben I enjoy your videos. Leads me to even more research.
QUESTION. I have an old FPE stab lok 100 panel in our house that was probably built around 1961 or 63. Was wondering if you are familiar with them and the problems I’m reading about and now considering replacing due to lack of protection from the breakers. A few years ago I ended up installing a 200 amp box outside wall which is an Eaton panel. (after tree limb pulled off service line). So I guess my old FPE is now a sub panel. Living in South Carolina and wondering what would be typical cost to replace.
Also bought an interlock kit for gen. Thought right match but when I contacted Eaton she said wrong match. My panel has meter attached and therefore what’s required is new breaker cover with built in interlock. Probably high dollar. Find out tomorrow on price. Ugh
honestly if there is a breaker for the fpe panel in the new 200 amp panel it wld be just a matter of you getting a new panel and breakers but if you need to get a permit chk with bldg dept as they may want you to upgrade to afci/gfci breakers and tamper proof outlets otherwise if you cld find an electrician to do time and materials and you dont need to upgrade make sure they get permit or you pull yourself it will be around $2000 to $4000. call around you might find it for $1500 or lower ( i live in new england live free or die )
I am surprised that I didn't see a way to use a subpanel such as a Square D QO panel where you can purchase individual breaker interlocks in the subpanel to switch between the generator power and the main house power.
Had a question related to the Evergen Switch (First option in video). Can the generator and the line power be on at the same time with some circuits on generator and some on line power? Although the hot lead is switched the Neutral would be tied between the generator and the line. Not sure if this is an issue or not. Since current would be returning to both sources through their branch circuits I guess it may be OK. Let me know your thoughts on this scenario. Thx.
Love that kitty 🤣👍
Hey Ben-another great video, with cat bonus...love it!! Question on the transfer switch scenario you’re showing in the video: I’m assuming there are separate breakers inside the transfer switch for each circuit, correct? And how are the neutrals for each circuit handled... to what is the neutral pin of the transfer box outlet wired? And what about the ground... to what is the ground pin of the transfer switch outlet wired?
Guess I should be calling it the transfer switch inlet!
Todd LaRoche I guess I want to understand how the neutral circuits are established in the transfer box so that they connect to the neutrals exiting the “original” neutral circuits that are wired at the main panel? And then if the ground pin of the transfer box power inlet goes to the ground at the main...? Wouldn’t that be a problem then because the ground and neutrals would be bonded there?
I think it would be a lot easier to have a mechanical interlock .for the gen breaker and
mains breaker. Power goes out, you shut off mains and then ur able to turn on gen brker.
Great Video Ben. In these systems, specifically the not manual transfer switches, does having a solar panel system that feeds into the grid (without battery backup) complicate things? Can we just turn off that circuit breaker backfeeding the grid from solar panels?
Great question! I would guess that you are correct with the disconnection of the solar panels but I am not very familiar with those systems. I would recommend calling the utility or company that installed your solar system and ask them what they would recommend.
Of the two common methods for residential solar, if you have a backed breaker in your main panel, the inverter(s) on the array manage the interconnection by default. Power must be coming in for X minutes and then the solar comes online. If you switch power sources (Util. to Gen) the inverters go to standby mode, and once the generator is online, will begin countdown to reconnect.
[[[What I'm not sure of is whether there are adverse conditions to combining solar with a generator. Sounds like a good idea though, but needs some research]]]
The second method of interconnection is where the solar is tied into the electrical service upstream of your main panel but after the mater(s). If integrating the generator at the panel board, the solar remains tied only to the utility. If a meter base type generator interconnect is chosen, then it combines the Gen with the Solar.
I have a 7250 running watts generator wired into my breaker box via 10/3 w ground, 30 amp breaker, with interlock kit. Can I use my heat pump which has a 40 amp breaker and uses nearly 6000 watts?
Thanks in advance and take care!!
Does anyone know where Ben's link is to Generlink OUTSIDE PRODUCT THAT LETS YOU HOOK GENERATOR UP TO AN EXTENSION THAT is PUT ON THE OUTSIDE METER GLASS WIDOW AREA WHERE THE MAIN POWER COMES INTO THE HOUSE FROM THE LINE? He mentions a link below but none go to that product that goes outside the house no where near the control panel and looks like the easiest most versatile safest hook up for an emergency portable generator for power during a blackout. Please send link to product. Thanks JJ
Is there a more modern version of #1? Maybe for 1 or 2 circuits only?
There are sizes from one circuit to 10. Look up Reliance Controls and Connecticut Electric, those are the two companies that I have found that make these. I think Generac also has a small one with two circuits.
9:10 thanks for this tip "Extension cords are an extremely common way of f*cking things up inside of your house..."
The only disadvantage with the genre link device you talked about, is is that the electric company would have to install it for you
I have a question, my generator 5300max watts 4800 running watts has 4 20amp plug and one 240 3-prong plug has 2 hots 1 ground or neutral how would I wire this in to my house panel?
I'm thinking the 1 neutral or ground would tie in to the neutral bar
he has a video on that here ua-cam.com/video/Y26CBqpS2M0/v-deo.html
Nice bangs
kick ass vid. thanks. god damn square d panels. i hate square d panels. good breakers tho.
Ha thanks! Square D is all that most people use in our area for some reason. What is your favorite panel manufacturer these days?
@@BenjaminSahlstrom forever and always siemens. dual breakers all the way baby. woohoo
@@MrTooTechnical square d makes duel too whats your point siemens is my 2nd choice though must be a regional thing
What brand of meter can was that with the transfer switch? I haven't seen that one before.
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That scenario #1 ... Yeah I really don't know why those units were ever allowed in this country. The later versions of them with real breakers are OK, but that one is a no-go in my book. (Chintzy button breakers and Doesn't maintain gfci/afci breaker protection when on generator supply).
With the sample shown, I could see lots of red flags looked like most circuits were multiwire (shared neutral) on 1P breakers, which even if grandfathered, poses hazard if the neutral is carrying load from both legs from two sources that are out-of-phase since the generator is not synchronous with the utility.
Pretty sure it was Square D but I would have to look again to be sure. I don't know if they still make them in that configuration or not.
I couldn't agree more with regard to the first type. It just makes more sense to power the entire panel and keep all of the breakers operating as they should.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom they do a frnd had the same system house was built 8 yrs ago before the afci was mandated in their area ive had to help them a cple of times with the change over they dont understand they need to flip the switches over still lol
What about using an Auto Transfer Switch?
IMO auto transfer switch is not useful in a typical DIY home setting. To make it useful you need a generator that will start up by itself and run continuously without babysitting for long periods. That means utility natural gas, no significant oil consumption, auto restart after overload, etc etc. For most homes that's a $20K+ project requiring building and planning permits, a competent plumber, a concrete pad, etc ... And if you don't have all of that, if you have a smaller generator that does need a little tending to, an auto transfer switch is pointless.
Unfortunately, this is becoming more relevant to California. Thanks, PG&E
Yeah no kidding.
And do you have a vid on how to chose the correct generator for my house?
Not yet! My recommendation would be something that provides 30A of power or around 7,200 watts. This model would be about the right size: amzn.to/34ieTnk
With that you will be able to run (by cycling between appliances) an electric water heater, electric dryer, electric range (not all burners but one or two) and of course all of your "normal" household loads. Anything larger really isn't necessary unless you want to run everything at once. Let me know what size you end up going with!
amps X volts=watts so your refrigerator 7amps max x 120v = 840 watts
light bulb 60 watts/ 120 v= .5 amps
kind of a pain but you do that for all appliances you need add %20 tells you the size of generator you wld want
Did I see a spirit coming down from the main breaker? at 1:02
You have a ghost!
Ha! That's hilarious!
Wow I see the little ghost. never seen that before
I did the generator interlock kit because I also like to pick the breakers I use. From summer to winter they could be a totally different set of breakers. I did a video of a must have if you do any of these installs. The question always is when you get off the grid's power, how do you know when to get back on? This thing will tell you. Reliance Controls - PowerBACK Utility Power Return Alert ua-cam.com/video/v6OAW7xq8fM/v-deo.html
When connecting with the interlock kit, is it possible for power to feed back into the power lines outside through the neutral if the main is off?
No
Do you have to turn off the main 100 amp breakers on the electrical panel along with all the circuit breakers on the electrical panel before starting your generator to run power through the GenerLink? Oh, and that cat must know it has 9 lives the way it uses the electrical panel area as a playground, lol.
waiting for that cat to byte into the wrong wire XD
That cat had 9-lives, he just spent 'em all! - Uncle Eddie - Christmas Vacation
Isn’t it against code to have junctions in the panel?
I don't think so as I see it pretty frequently. Where did you hear this? Obviously the panel is much cleaner if you avoid connections in the panel but that isn't always possible and or convenient.
Benjamin Sahlstrom I’m an 2 year apprentice and a journeyman I work with mentioned to me that it was against code to make junction inside of a panel that a junction box would need to be placed outside of the panel and new conductors should be brought inside as well as it being against code to pass circuits through one panel into another that they would have to come in directly. I have not found any code to back it up but it caught my attention when I saw your generator video. I have only installed the interlock transfer switch. When I saw the the meter mounted transfer switch I was amazed but then I saw the price and decided to stick with the interlock.
@@steve-tm6nh Cool! Thanks for sharing your experience!
The whole installation looks like it came out of the 1920s. Seriously dangerous.
Two things: 1 - I understand you are just trying to educate, but you are also giving "non electricians" the tools to kill themselves. Only a licensed and trained electrician should be doing anything with the main power coming into you house. 2 - Hooking up a generator that is not an "inverter generator" is hazardous to any and all electronics that need "pure sinewave" power. Those framed construction style generators are "modified sinewave".
There's always one "You're going to get someone killed by making this video" from some fucktard that thinks he can save the world. Congratulations on being that fucktard.
Thank you