Whenever I build a kit I always sand off the rust on the weight and paint both sides black for future corrosion control. If I have to add weights to make it to NMRA standards, I paint those Harbor Freight wheel weights black as well. It helps to hide the weights. I also cut the parts off of the sprue with a pair of nippers or side cutters and sand the flash off. I always use Kadee couplers mounted to the body. Metal wheel sets are a must on my layout. I hate talgo trucks (couplers mounted to the trucks). I've built a few kits in my lifetime as I'm now 72 and still playing with trains. Cheers from eastern TN
As The52Car said earlier, please, please *do* *not* remove plastic parts from the sprue by bending the pieces back and forth then snapping off the piece! This method is *guaranteed* either to damage the part or to leave a large amount of flash on the part which must be sanded or shaved off. Instead, invest about $20 in a decent set of sprue nippers (Xuron or Tamiya). The Accurail instruction sheet agrees: "CUT PARTS FROM SPRUES (DO NOT BREAK OFF)"
Hi BN. Love your project. 2 major problems on the Yellow Burlington Northern box car : The wheels & the couplers The Accumate couplers are annoying, & they're garbage. Plastic wheels ? They're the trains worst enemies & mess up your trackage please use metal wheels they're 100% better looking & more realistic. Otherwise a good looking model box car . 👍
As much as I love Accurail models (and I really do love them) I *hate* Accumate couplers. Kadee couplers cost about $2 per pair if you buy them in bulk, and they are easier to install and more reliable to operate. Based on how the couplers are (not) moving, I suspect you are over-tightening the coupler pockets.
Whenever I build a kit I always sand off the rust on the weight and paint both sides black for future corrosion control. If I have to add weights to make it to NMRA standards, I paint those Harbor Freight wheel weights black as well. It helps to hide the weights. I also cut the parts off of the sprue with a pair of nippers or side cutters and sand the flash off. I always use Kadee couplers mounted to the body. Metal wheel sets are a must on my layout. I hate talgo trucks (couplers mounted to the trucks). I've built a few kits in my lifetime as I'm now 72 and still playing with trains. Cheers from eastern TN
As The52Car said earlier, please, please *do* *not* remove plastic parts from the sprue by bending the pieces back and forth then snapping off the piece! This method is *guaranteed* either to damage the part or to leave a large amount of flash on the part which must be sanded or shaved off. Instead, invest about $20 in a decent set of sprue nippers (Xuron or Tamiya). The Accurail instruction sheet agrees: "CUT PARTS FROM SPRUES (DO NOT BREAK OFF)"
You need to ensure that you're in frame when videoing. At least you don't play loud background music and try to talk over it.
Hi BN. Love your project. 2 major problems on the Yellow Burlington Northern box car : The wheels & the couplers The Accumate couplers are annoying, & they're garbage. Plastic wheels ? They're the trains worst enemies & mess up your trackage please use metal wheels they're 100% better looking & more realistic. Otherwise a good looking model box car . 👍
I 100% agree definitely gonna need to upgrade
If you making a how-to, you've at least gotta use some proper nippers to cut the parts off without any flashing.
👍👌
As much as I love Accurail models (and I really do love them) I *hate* Accumate couplers. Kadee couplers cost about $2 per pair if you buy them in bulk, and they are easier to install and more reliable to operate. Based on how the couplers are (not) moving, I suspect you are over-tightening the coupler pockets.
Nicee
hello