When energizing a circuit with the exposed conductors sticking out of the box, stick a wire nut or wago on each conductor. It won't protect the serious Darwin contenders, but it reduces the chance of someone simply brushing against a hot conductor as they walk down the hall.
For the TP-Link 2-pack dimmer switches such as KS230, the specs note that 1 switch is the Main switch (Wi-fi active) and 1 switch is the Satellite switch. I imagine the Satellite switch is not Wi-Fi active, correct? If that is the case, then I'm not seeing the cost benefit here since you can't use each switch on 2 different 3-way setups. Do you have a method that works here though?
Excellent video and explanation!!! I did learn the hard way to read and reread the little manual that comes with the switches. I only had two, 3 way switches left on hand, and didn’t want to order just one single pole smart switch, but I wanted all the switches in the room to look the same. So I just used two, 3 way switches. The circuit never worked. Only one switch would work and the other switch would only work if the main switch was on. Turns out the brand of smart switch will only work if only one switch on the circuit is a 3 way switch, not both. I ordered the single pole version of the smart switch and it now works great. There was a notation in the little manual, and I didn’t see it until I reread the manual a few times out of frustration.
What brand of smart switch were you using? What the video is showing is that you can replace (one) 3 way switch (where power is fed to) with a single smart switch and buying the pack of more than one might save $ If you used a KASA 3 way switch, but wired a single pole switch in the same circuit, please share a wiring diagram of this?
I installed only one smart switch at the main switch (power line from breaker) . It works fine when manually turn on/off at either smart or standard 3-way switch. However, the Kasa and Alexa apps do not show the light status correctly so I am not able to know whether it is on or off to turn off or on. It does switch the light on/off at the app when I click the button on the app. The schedule setup doesn't work as I set up to turn off at sunrise and on at sunset. I tried using timer schedule on/off too but same problem. I tried multiple of these smart switches but had the same problem. I think there is some kind of firmware problem. There is also another problem the light status at the smart switch always show on even the light is off, this status light should be on only when the light is off and on when the light is off
Very useful.. I have a 3-way switch at the top of the stairs, and the second one on an inconvenient wall downstairs: I'd like to just put a wireless switch at the bottom of the stairs to control the downstairs switch and I think this helps me do it. Thanks.
I almost thought that you meant that you're able to use a normal non 3-way smart switch for a 3-way switch. Had to go back to realize you still need a 3-way switch, which makes more sense.
Unfortunately I don't see this working with the DIMMABLE version of Kasa Smart WiFi switch because the dimmer kit comes with one smart switch and one satellite (not smart switch). It works well for the non-dimmable 3-way kit since that kit has 2 smart switches in the box.
Perhaps both switches in that kit could actually work (kit KS230) but maybe the one can dim, not the other then. FYI, I called KASA support just prior to finding this video. They informed me what the video shows, won't function *(even though I strongly suspected that it did!) so they're trying to sell their kits, more sales, etc.
Kasa KS230 (3-way dimmer) is an exception to the rule. It uses the travellers to communicate on/off state AND to allow both switches to control dimming level. Also it's designed so the satellite doesn't need a neutral connection. These extra features necessitate the switches being used together. Kasa 3-way non-dimming switches can be installed as singles or pairs.
Question for you...I have one light control by 3 switches and to complicate things the electrician ran the power to the light not to a switch box. Is there a way to wire this light up with a smart switch and still be able to use all three switches? Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer. Currently I have removed all switches and have a smart bulb that I control via wifi.
Question. I have two three-way switches controlling two lights. I want to separate them so one will be on while the other is off and vice versa. Can two three-way smart switches accomplish this? Thanks. Great video btw.
How do you handle it if the switch requires a neutral? I have a bundle of neutrals bundled on one but in the box, but 2 circuits in the box. From what I’ve come to understand, those neutrals shouldn’t be bundled. I guess my second question would be, if the smart switch requires a neutral, but the opposite 3 way switch doesn’t, can I make that work? Thank you!
Wow... I really liked your video and the comments and responses are not hostile as one tends to find. I have a smart 3 way dimming Kasa + 3 way dumb non-dimming and it is not working. I need one to be white and one black and unfortunately Kasa doesn't do but white. Any tricks to make it work?
Hi there! If the one you replaced for the smart switch needs to be white and it isn’t working, that usually means you need to replace the other one, unfortunately. To your point, it’s harder to find a black smart switch but perhaps another brand makes them?
Agreed, it should. The key with all 3 way and 4 way switch wiring is for everything to be wired exactly as it must be. *Some electricians even have a challenge doing it correctly the first attempt. Also, where the power is as noted in the video is key!
I'm a bit unclear on the wiring of the 2 way switch. Which of the travelers coming from the 3-way do I hook up to the 2-way, presumably as the "live" source? Thanks for your help!
No 2 way can be used! A 2 way switch is on/off. A 3 way switch is different, where it is actually on/off 100% of the time (the way the switches are wired together *only one of the switches is actually "ON" at any time)...
Interesting video, thanks. Are you using wire cutters to pull the wires out instead of pliers? You probably don't want to reuse such endings as the might be damaged. Also labeling should be recommended when power is off. Otherwise it's a huge risk of touching exposed ends of hot..
I think that would function, but you obviously can't control the dimming via the KASA App. *If you mean both are KASA brands, I think that would work same as above, you'd have to test dimming via the App.
Generally, a non-smart 3 way switch is used with only another type of 3 way switch, in some cases where there are several, 4 way switches (at least some of them) are required. If using a 1 way (single pole) switch in a 3 way circuit, it'll defeat the purpose as you can't make use them a (as w way switches) It doesn't seem possible, you'd have switch connection terminals, that have nothing to connect to/it won't function.
Exactly. As long as you put the switch on the main, the traveler wires will keep that one informed as to the light status, so it should work there too.
So if you have a 3 way switch and one of the switches has a dimmer, is the one with the dimmer the main switch? Meaning, if I get the TP link Kasa switches that come with a dimmer, do I just replace the existing dimmer switch and I'm good to go? Also, I've used TP Link in the past, but it can get heavy on the network, which smart switches do you recommend?
Just because there’s a dimmer on it now doesn’t mean it’s the main. I’d verify which is the main, put the smart dimmer on it, then use your regular dumb (3-way) switch on the other one. As for brands, I’ve enjoyed TP Link and haven’t had network issues with them even with 110 devices on my network. I’d go off of the Amazon reviews if you want to look at other brands.
@@LRN2DIY I had my old house almost completely with the TPLink smart switches, it was great. But I know each switch is a device on the network taking up an IP address. I was wondering if you preferred TPLink over the brand that Lowes/HD carry. Great video, I can't wait to smarten up this house too. Can you believe, I have to actually get off the couch to turn on the light. OH the humanity. Haha.
@@brandonb417 Haha - now that's just not cool ;) (having to get up to turn on the light) So as far as IP addresses, yeah - you've got a few options. 1) Do what you and I have done with a bunch of switches and a bunch of IP addresses or 2) get a second router and keep, set up a different network and only put your smart devices on that, 3) go with products that use a hub to reduce the amount of traffic going throughout the house and 4) start replacing switches/outlets etc with SmartThings / Zigbee products. These work differently than standard WiFi switches and take up less bandwidth. I can't claim to know all the options but those are some out there that are popular. We use the Google / Nest Mesh setup with several satellites and it handles all of our devices just great.
@@LRN2DIY I've seen those options as well. One thing I liked about the TP Link was if one switch acted up the whole system didn't go down. I have one Philip's hue light with the hub and it was a pain in the neck. Good idea with the second router. I'm oy planning on a few switches though, so shouldn't be a problem. One thing I did before that was really cool, I used a smart outlet on my patio cover for the patio lights, ordering Google to turn on the patio lights was pretty great. Thanks again for the info in the video.
I called KASA support just prior to finding this video. They informed me what the video shows, won't function *(even though I strongly suspected that it did!) so they're trying to sell their kits, more sales, etc.
If your using tp link switches at least flash them with Tasmota. Second time on this channel he’s used esp based hardware with junk cloud firmware! Like one foot in.
Too complicated for me. We have 3 switches that control nine bulbs. I replaced the 9 with smart bulbs and I can turn on any combination of 1-9 bulbs instead of turning on the whole 9. Saves electricity and I had no wiring to do.
When energizing a circuit with the exposed conductors sticking out of the box, stick a wire nut or wago on each conductor. It won't protect the serious Darwin contenders, but it reduces the chance of someone simply brushing against a hot conductor as they walk down the hall.
For the TP-Link 2-pack dimmer switches such as KS230, the specs note that 1 switch is the Main switch (Wi-fi active) and 1 switch is the Satellite switch. I imagine the Satellite switch is not Wi-Fi active, correct? If that is the case, then I'm not seeing the cost benefit here since you can't use each switch on 2 different 3-way setups. Do you have a method that works here though?
Correct the Dimmer KS230 Satellite one cant stand alone, just installed a couple recently.
Excellent video and explanation!!! I did learn the hard way to read and reread the little manual that comes with the switches. I only had two, 3 way switches left on hand, and didn’t want to order just one single pole smart switch, but I wanted all the switches in the room to look the same. So I just used two, 3 way switches. The circuit never worked. Only one switch would work and the other switch would only work if the main switch was on. Turns out the brand of smart switch will only work if only one switch on the circuit is a 3 way switch, not both. I ordered the single pole version of the smart switch and it now works great. There was a notation in the little manual, and I didn’t see it until I reread the manual a few times out of frustration.
What brand of smart switch were you using?
What the video is showing is that you can replace (one) 3 way switch (where power is fed to) with a single smart switch and buying the pack of more than one might save $
If you used a KASA 3 way switch, but wired a single pole switch in the same circuit, please share a wiring diagram of this?
Thanks! This saved me a LOT of guesswork and cussing. Super easy to understand and implement.
I installed only one smart switch at the main switch (power line from breaker) . It works fine when manually turn on/off at either smart or standard 3-way switch. However, the Kasa and Alexa apps do not show the light status correctly so I am not able to know whether it is on or off to turn off or on. It does switch the light on/off at the app when I click the button on the app. The schedule setup doesn't work as I set up to turn off at sunrise and on at sunset. I tried using timer schedule on/off too but same problem. I tried multiple of these smart switches but had the same problem. I think there is some kind of firmware problem. There is also another problem the light status at the smart switch always show on even the light is off, this status light should be on only when the light is off and on when the light is off
Did they fix it with firmware updates?
Very useful.. I have a 3-way switch at the top of the stairs, and the second one on an inconvenient wall downstairs: I'd like to just put a wireless switch at the bottom of the stairs to control the downstairs switch and I think this helps me do it. Thanks.
THANK YOU. GOOD direct answer to this question.
Super great video thank you very much have a great week.
I almost thought that you meant that you're able to use a normal non 3-way smart switch for a 3-way switch. Had to go back to realize you still need a 3-way switch, which makes more sense.
Unfortunately I don't see this working with the DIMMABLE version of Kasa Smart WiFi switch because the dimmer kit comes with one smart switch and one satellite (not smart switch). It works well for the non-dimmable 3-way kit since that kit has 2 smart switches in the box.
Perhaps both switches in that kit could actually work (kit KS230) but maybe the one can dim, not the other then. FYI, I called KASA support just prior to finding this video.
They informed me what the video shows, won't function *(even though I strongly suspected that it did!) so they're trying to sell their kits, more sales, etc.
Wow. I just now noticed that. First comment or mention of that at all. That’s why it was only working half the time
The switches aren’t even remotely the same depth beyond the “main/satellite” labeling I’ve been missing
Kasa KS230 (3-way dimmer) is an exception to the rule. It uses the travellers to communicate on/off state AND to allow both switches to control dimming level. Also it's designed so the satellite doesn't need a neutral connection. These extra features necessitate the switches being used together. Kasa 3-way non-dimming switches can be installed as singles or pairs.
Try ks210, i tried the 230 but u need to install them both.
Thank you for this great video; well narrated!
Question for you...I have one light control by 3 switches and to complicate things the electrician ran the power to the light not to a switch box. Is there a way to wire this light up with a smart switch and still be able to use all three switches? Thanks in advance for any insight you can offer. Currently I have removed all switches and have a smart bulb that I control via wifi.
Question. I have two three-way switches controlling two lights. I want to separate them so one will be on while the other is off and vice versa. Can two three-way smart switches accomplish this? Thanks. Great video btw.
How do you handle it if the switch requires a neutral? I have a bundle of neutrals bundled on one but in the box, but 2 circuits in the box. From what I’ve come to understand, those neutrals shouldn’t be bundled. I guess my second question would be, if the smart switch requires a neutral, but the opposite 3 way switch doesn’t, can I make that work? Thank you!
You need to identify the neutral that comes from the same common/live wire and bundle the switch neutral to it.
Wow... I really liked your video and the comments and responses are not hostile as one tends to find. I have a smart 3 way dimming Kasa + 3 way dumb non-dimming and it is not working. I need one to be white and one black and unfortunately Kasa doesn't do but white. Any tricks to make it work?
Hi there! If the one you replaced for the smart switch needs to be white and it isn’t working, that usually means you need to replace the other one, unfortunately. To your point, it’s harder to find a black smart switch but perhaps another brand makes them?
can you manually alter the dimming settings from both switches if you use the kasa set?
Yes, but only the main switch has the led gauge that shows brightness level. Not a big deal, since the bulbs show that anyway.
Does the same apply for a 4-way setup? (hall way of lights, 4 light switches)
Yup - works the same with a 4-way switch.
Agreed, it should. The key with all 3 way and 4 way switch wiring is for everything to be wired exactly as it must be. *Some electricians even have a challenge doing it correctly the first attempt. Also, where the power is as noted in the video is key!
I'm a bit unclear on the wiring of the 2 way switch. Which of the travelers coming from the 3-way do I hook up to the 2-way, presumably as the "live" source? Thanks for your help!
No 2 way can be used! A 2 way switch is on/off. A 3 way switch is different, where it is actually on/off 100% of the time (the way the switches are wired together *only one of the switches is actually "ON" at any time)...
You find the one that works in the right direction. There's two options you only use one
Interesting video, thanks. Are you using wire cutters to pull the wires out instead of pliers? You probably don't want to reuse such endings as the might be damaged. Also labeling should be recommended when power is off. Otherwise it's a huge risk of touching exposed ends of hot..
I used cutters to snip the wires then stripped them.
Can I put one 3 way dimmer and one regular smart 3 way ?
I think that would function, but you obviously can't control the dimming via the KASA App.
*If you mean both are KASA brands, I think that would work same as above, you'd have to test dimming via the App.
it doesn't seem to work with the Leviton DW6HD, maybe they are differnt?
Can a smart 3-way switch be installed with a smart single pole switch?
Did you ever find the answer to this?
@@Vcize No I havn't, I read some where that Kasa might be bring this option to customers sometime this year...who knows..
Generally, a non-smart 3 way switch is used with only another type of 3 way switch, in some cases where there are several, 4 way switches (at least some of them) are required. If using a 1 way (single pole) switch in a 3 way circuit, it'll defeat the purpose as you can't make use them a (as w way switches) It doesn't seem possible, you'd have switch connection terminals, that have nothing to connect to/it won't function.
What if I have 3 switches controlling one light? Would it be the same, one main and two secondary?
Exactly. As long as you put the switch on the main, the traveler wires will keep that one informed as to the light status, so it should work there too.
@@LRN2DIY Thank you for the response, I've been trying to get an answer and now I finally got one!!
So if you have a 3 way switch and one of the switches has a dimmer, is the one with the dimmer the main switch? Meaning, if I get the TP link Kasa switches that come with a dimmer, do I just replace the existing dimmer switch and I'm good to go?
Also, I've used TP Link in the past, but it can get heavy on the network, which smart switches do you recommend?
Just because there’s a dimmer on it now doesn’t mean it’s the main. I’d verify which is the main, put the smart dimmer on it, then use your regular dumb (3-way) switch on the other one.
As for brands, I’ve enjoyed TP Link and haven’t had network issues with them even with 110 devices on my network. I’d go off of the Amazon reviews if you want to look at other brands.
@@LRN2DIY I had my old house almost completely with the TPLink smart switches, it was great. But I know each switch is a device on the network taking up an IP address. I was wondering if you preferred TPLink over the brand that Lowes/HD carry.
Great video, I can't wait to smarten up this house too. Can you believe, I have to actually get off the couch to turn on the light. OH the humanity. Haha.
@@brandonb417 Haha - now that's just not cool ;) (having to get up to turn on the light) So as far as IP addresses, yeah - you've got a few options. 1) Do what you and I have done with a bunch of switches and a bunch of IP addresses or 2) get a second router and keep, set up a different network and only put your smart devices on that, 3) go with products that use a hub to reduce the amount of traffic going throughout the house and 4) start replacing switches/outlets etc with SmartThings / Zigbee products. These work differently than standard WiFi switches and take up less bandwidth. I can't claim to know all the options but those are some out there that are popular. We use the Google / Nest Mesh setup with several satellites and it handles all of our devices just great.
@@LRN2DIY I've seen those options as well. One thing I liked about the TP Link was if one switch acted up the whole system didn't go down. I have one Philip's hue light with the hub and it was a pain in the neck.
Good idea with the second router.
I'm oy planning on a few switches though, so shouldn't be a problem.
One thing I did before that was really cool, I used a smart outlet on my patio cover for the patio lights, ordering Google to turn on the patio lights was pretty great.
Thanks again for the info in the video.
So I can use a TP-Link 3 way dimmable smart switch on just one of the switches and it will work??
As long as you put it on the main switch (the one connected to the circuit breaker box) then yes.
If the switch has two common/live wires, then it's the main switch?
Why do sone of these smart 3-way need a neutral (white) wire connected?
Well that is exactly what I did I tried my Smart three-way switch in both locations either way it only works when the other switches on
Does this concept still hold true if the smart 3way switch is a dimmer switch, the dumb 3way switch is not a dimmer, and the light(s) are dimmable?
While I can't be 100% positive, it definitely should still work. It's the exact same principle.
I called KASA support just prior to finding this video.
They informed me what the video shows, won't function *(even though I strongly suspected that it did!) so they're trying to sell their kits, more sales, etc.
You can use a shelly switch (or dimmer), wire the second switch to the second channel, and Bob is your uncle.
If your using tp link switches at least flash them with Tasmota. Second time on this channel he’s used esp based hardware with junk cloud firmware! Like one foot in.
I am confuse... can I use single pole switch on 3 way switch? or does it has to be 3 way switch?
no, has to be a three-way.
There is another popular configuration where the light is between the main and other switch. I dont think this video works for that case.
Why do you have 3-way switches that are barely 3 steps from each other? LOL
They’re each for separate lights.
I feel so dumb for not realizing this.
bro you have free delivery where my country takes 305$ delivery fee:(
Clark Kevin Rodriguez Linda Harris Donald
Too complicated for me. We have 3 switches that control nine bulbs. I replaced the 9 with smart bulbs and I can turn on any combination of 1-9 bulbs instead of turning on the whole 9. Saves electricity and I had no wiring to do.
good video but I would never allow YT to attach that type of advertisement to any video.
I don't have any control over what the ads are and I don't get to even see what gets shown, so I'm curious - what kind of ad did you see?