Another thing that sets your video apart from others is your excellent narration. You explain very clearly what you did and why. This makes the videos particularly helpful.
I cannot even imagine the immense pride you must feel when getting into something that you built which is so stunningly beautiful. I am really enjoying the design process discussion! Thank you for posting this video
This video was especially fun because you thought things out and invented ways to test what would work. You spent a great deal of time learning about the techniques that were used in other cars. Your enjoyment of how well the car handled when you sorted out the suspension issues was so cool. It was great to see the models you made before construction. I liked the descriptions of what you tried that didn’t work and the things you tried to make things work better. The fun in your two year project was in the planning, research, and the trial and error. All 4 videos are a wonderful resource that shows the amount of creativity, research and work involved in making your own car, or anything else.
If I were able to build my own GT40, I'd be mostly driving it on the street. I was a member of a Mustang club for many years; it was all car shows. One year they decided to do a rally, and I loved it, but they only did it that one time. Autocross looks like it's fun, and I know you're having a blast!!!
A GT40 is not a good Street Car. Impossible to see behind you. The passenger foot well held the batteries and not feet. Hard to see in the small side mirrors due to vibration, and most importantly since the car is so low other drivers will not see you beside them. They were street cars in theory only because the FIA rules dictated they needed to be. including a luggage compartment that fit a regulation suitcase. ( it was under the rear bodywork above the exhaust system. Anything in there would be cooked. )
As explained in my comments in part 4, I'm a Aerospace Engineer and many years in many Countries on many platforms. These comments are on your "Fuselage". Involved in the building of the C-130J Super Herc so know a bit about "Al Clad" construction and corrosion issues. Al Clad has an interior/exterior surface that is basically "pure Aluminum" (that doesn't corrode easily) bonded to an aluminum "core" (a metal composite actually). Helpful info ... it's only about 0.007" thick and if you go deeper, you WILL have corrosion at that scratch/tool mark even with coatings. On your Riveting ... google "Aloha Airlines Flight 243" and know that the reason for failure (even if most don't know except NTSB) was improper hole sizes (Rivet OD to skin/rib ID). Like your "jumping" testing, that's why it breaks (fatigue and wallowing out of the holes). So be advised that is why on the Hercs (main fuselage has over 100 solid AD Rivets and all "hand bucked" in "Dimpled" holes) "Drill Spoons" are a must to keep angularity issues out of the equation. We also use FMS 1044 Sealant on all faying surfaces; it's not as a "glue" but mainly for corrosion prevention ... but know that it does add strength to the Rivet patterns. Lastly, Rule number one in Aircraft manufacture (all) is this: "No sharp corners on parts" (no "Knife Edges") ... prevents cracking. What a wonderful build ... enjoyed all 4 segments and can't wait for your next project ... subscribing.
I just love this series. When you redo your seats, can you please, please, please video document it and share blueprints and material sources? I don't have a GT40, but I'd so love to build the iconic seats in my project car. So cool.
Too true, he's at the age he has not fully appreciate something his pops built from the ground up with his own hands. It'll be something to cherish for life.
Hey Ben - thanks for sharing your journey, great video. I particularly liked your approach to the chassis, and the design of the riveting. How has that held up in use? Has the chassis softened in use? And did you consider adding glue to the joints?
Good questions! I had planned to use adhesive on the Indy car but didn’t because I honestly didn’t think the car would work first time out and I’d be disassembling panels and trying again. But that car has had 8 to 10 events a year for 6 years now and has held up beautifully. No failed/loosened rivets and not even signs in the paint or anything wiggling. On the GT40 I then planned to use adhesive only to find that the adhesive I wanted to use (it’s used on the floor pans of the Formula Fords I’m used to working with) was discontinued. I then couldn’t find a suitable replacement that had the strength, long working time, and resistance to heat (for around the engine anyways). Because the GT40 being wider allows me to use almost double the amount of rivets as the other car I didn’t worry about it. I did use adhesive in the front half just because I could and wasn’t worried about heat there. It’s only been 8 events I think for that car so far but again nothing has loosened. The Lotus 78 and 79 that I was referring to having loosening rivets were made with a less rigid structure that then had to deal with ground effect downforce. So it was a weaker structure dealing with higher loads than my cars. And also a LOT more track time per season. If I was holding road cars for daily use though, I’d definitely use adhesive everywhere.
@@benbeames thanks for taking the time to respond. In the late 80s I helped build some Reynard F3 cars, from memory, the aluminium floor pan was glued to the bottom of the carbon tub using nothing more exotic than Aladite. The floor pan peeled of on a curb in the first test run! After that the aluminium pan was replaced with plywood.
@@benbeames I know that you were interested in adhesive that is suitable for bonding a chassis. Maybe some clues here: ua-cam.com/video/tNcy2NJ1z_U/v-deo.html
@@jahobbis thanks!!! I had stayed away from anything that needed heat to cure because I don’t have a car sized oven. But the heat gun/ heater idea in this is a great idea!
Not sure if you used bonding along the rivet line between the panels. That can be useful and was a method used in the aircraft industry for may years. I am not sure what adhesive they used.
Fantastic. Great video and vert informative. Just finished a 427 SC Cobra replica and want to build a GT 40 Mk II with the same 427. Your video gives me great insight. Good engineering and ingenious techniques. Did you use CAD to aid in your design? The rear uprights are from a T-bird, did I understand that correctly.? Cheers from Texas
No CAD, just graph paper. I’m on a computer all day at work so it’s rare to catch me on one when not at work. Yes, 1989 t-bird rear knuckles like this: www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-1989-Ford-Thunderbird-Knuckle-E9SZ-5A968-A/383198469759?chn=ps&norover=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=383198469759&targetid=1645685074768&device=t&googleloc=9032128&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074768&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh90wWQIahEVr2-R-e9TTjpD4&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0tKiBhC6ARIsAAOXutnBRL4M1NP05WS4DhHAjjU_7kaUrHoKTRdI4Wyu424yd1gN_4lIDeoaAt_kEALw_wcB&pageci=64a0a9b5-e4ee-4cf3-821f-c4dccffbeeb3&redirect=mobile. But they’re harder and harder to find. The newer mustang rear knuckles may be a better option.
Unfortunately not. I was a little to busy building it to post about it at the time. But there are plenty of great build threads over at GT40s.com. That's where I go for info.
@@benbeames thanks for the tip! Also curious, you have a photo album from your progress? (Dropbox, other) that you'd consider sharing? As you know, everything helps! (Very much enjoyed this video series btw, thank you for the uploads!)
@@brianward6291 The pictures I have are in the videos already. Wouldn't you rather have plans with dimensions? I don't want to step on the toes of the many replica makers out there, some of which have helped me and all of which we need for parts availability. However I've been thinking of the info I found on the internet when I started and I'm working on taking some of those diagrams and turning them into a basic design drawing with dimensions that people can use as a generic starting place. I'll post it with a future video when its done.
@@brianward6291 In the meantime here's some resources you might want to check out: Measurmenents from a post in the Locost communinity: www.dropbox.com/s/htn5lfgrkwichzl/a225497-GT40%20Frame%2003.jpg?dl=0 and www.dropbox.com/s/e147bqqu70haya6/GT40%20Measurements.jpg?dl=0 Some original technical drawings can be found here (I think, not sure as I've never seen the book in person and it definitley doesn't contain EVERYTHING): porterpress.co.uk/products/ford-gt40-book Add some other, possibly sketchy sources are here (I've not looked at these either): www.carandclassic.com/car/C1509843 and grabcad.com/library/gt40-mk1-original-mk-1-chassis-blueprints-1 If you spend some time on google you'll probably find more.
I got the nose on eBay, the roof from cushmancomptetion.com, the doors and tail from a place that doesn’t exist anymore and made the sills, nose insert, and tail spoiler myself. There’s a guy in Main that’s supposed to make good bodies. Hold on I’ll see if I can find his name.
The RCR chassis is a great modern way to do it! I like making things in the fashion they were done in period. And that means rivets. Plus I just think rivets looks cool. That the metal doesn’t expand and shift while you’re welding is a nice bonus.
Your kid is developing his preferences. This is normal. He will reach the girl stage soon, but he will always remember these times with his dad, and pine for them later.
I don't want to step on the toes of many replica makers out there who guys like us need for parts availability. But I am going to go into more detail about the plans in a future video and share some of the info I found on the internet that's already out there. Things like these measurmenents from a post in the Locost communinity: www.dropbox.com/s/htn5lfgrkwichzl/a225497-GT40%20Frame%2003.jpg?dl=0 and www.dropbox.com/s/e147bqqu70haya6/GT40%20Measurements.jpg?dl=0 Some original technical drawings can be found here (I think, not sure as I've never seen the book in person and it definitley doesn't contain EVERYTHING): porterpress.co.uk/products/ford-gt40-book Add some other, possibly sketchy sources are here (I've not looked a tthese either): www.carandclassic.com/car/C1509843 and grabcad.com/library/gt40-mk1-original-mk-1-chassis-blueprints-1 If you spend some time on google you'll probably find more.
@@benbeames Thank you very much Ben. I've actually gone pretty far down the rabbit hole. I have a set of plans for the original GT-40 -- those that leaked out, plus a few other original drawings from friends, which let you build a copy of a factory GT-40 from the bottom of the windshield down. They're the ones in your last link. Spent about 300 hours working in CAD to create a 3D model based on them (migrating from FreeCAD to Alibre to Fusion 360). Quickly learned some of those parts are very, very complicated to hand fabricate. Was planning to CNC my own hammer forms and create as accurate a copy of the original chassis as I could. Then one day I asked myself -- why ? A ZF RBT-5 was quoted at $18K to me. My goal is 25K complete. It became obvious that it would be pointless to build a toolroom copy of the original chasses That's when I decided to focus on the some route you chose. Build something street worthy (my goal) and leave "original" to SuperFormance. Looking forward to going through the links. Anything to shorten the learning curve. BTW, a friend bought the porterpress book and said it added only a few drawings to the ones that are already in circulation. Worth it to him, since he's making a tool room copy, but not to me. Major respect, btw. I've already built an airplane from plans, so I understand how long / hard a project like this is. How you ever finished it in 2 years is beyond me.
Oh man, you’ve been fighting the good fight! I love the idea of being as faithful as possible to a piece of history. But yeah when the cost piles up you have to ask yourself is it really worth the expense. I know a guy with a basic tube frame Tornado replica that he used to vintage race and he was really competitive in it. Nowhere close to original in chassis design, but it works. That’s always in the back of my mind. I like monocoques, so i do that but there’s plenty of cars that proved faster than the GT40 as time moved on that were made simpler. CAN-AM cars in particular because their chassis were super simple. They probably weren’t as stiff as a gt40 but they were lighter and faster at a sprint race. So I take a lot of inspiration from them. But back to GT40’s you must know way more than I do on particulars of the chassis. A UA-cam video on you’re journey would be amazing!
Man in the days when 2200lbs with big ol' push rod V8 was a heavy race car... How times change. Although, at least nowadays they're nowhere near as deadly. So there is that.
Another thing that sets your video apart from others is your excellent narration. You explain very clearly what you did and why. This makes the videos particularly helpful.
I cannot even imagine the immense pride you must feel when getting into something that you built which is so stunningly beautiful. I am really enjoying the design process discussion!
Thank you for posting this video
This video was especially fun because you thought things out and invented ways to test what would work. You spent a great deal of time learning about the techniques that were used in other cars. Your enjoyment of how well the car handled when you sorted out the suspension issues was so cool. It was great to see the models you made before construction. I liked the descriptions of what you tried that didn’t work and the things you tried to make things work better. The fun in your two year project was in the planning, research, and the trial and error. All 4 videos are a wonderful resource that shows the amount of creativity, research and work involved in making your own car, or anything else.
If I were able to build my own GT40, I'd be mostly driving it on the street. I was a member of a Mustang club for many years; it was all car shows. One year they decided to do a rally, and I loved it, but they only did it that one time. Autocross looks like it's fun, and I know you're having a blast!!!
A GT40 is not a good Street Car. Impossible to see behind you. The passenger foot well held the batteries and not feet. Hard to see in the small side mirrors due to vibration, and most importantly since the car is so low other drivers will not see you beside them. They were street cars in theory only because the FIA rules dictated they needed to be. including a luggage compartment that fit a regulation suitcase. ( it was under the rear bodywork above the exhaust system. Anything in there would be cooked. )
As explained in my comments in part 4, I'm a Aerospace Engineer and many years in many Countries on many platforms. These comments are on your "Fuselage". Involved in the building of the C-130J Super Herc so know a bit about "Al Clad" construction and corrosion issues. Al Clad has an interior/exterior surface that is basically "pure Aluminum" (that doesn't corrode easily) bonded to an aluminum "core" (a metal composite actually). Helpful info ... it's only about 0.007" thick and if you go deeper, you WILL have corrosion at that scratch/tool mark even with coatings.
On your Riveting ... google "Aloha Airlines Flight 243" and know that the reason for failure (even if most don't know except NTSB) was improper hole sizes (Rivet OD to skin/rib ID). Like your "jumping" testing, that's why it breaks (fatigue and wallowing out of the holes). So be advised that is why on the Hercs (main fuselage has over 100 solid AD Rivets and all "hand bucked" in "Dimpled" holes) "Drill Spoons" are a must to keep angularity issues out of the equation. We also use FMS 1044 Sealant on all faying surfaces; it's not as a "glue" but mainly for corrosion prevention ... but know that it does add strength to the Rivet patterns.
Lastly, Rule number one in Aircraft manufacture (all) is this: "No sharp corners on parts" (no "Knife Edges") ... prevents cracking.
What a wonderful build ... enjoyed all 4 segments and can't wait for your next project ... subscribing.
Excellent series. I wish this channel was promoted better by UA-cam. This is a real gem.
I just love this series. When you redo your seats, can you please, please, please video document it and share blueprints and material sources? I don't have a GT40, but I'd so love to build the iconic seats in my project car. So cool.
Kid's commentary is pure gold.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing your experience!
Not to worry, he'll cherrish the GT40 you built. It's a one off, not "production". Great job!
Too true, he's at the age he has not fully appreciate something his pops built from the ground up with his own hands. It'll be something to cherish for life.
All around very cool. Your son will look back on this so fondly as an adult.
Your son's commentary on your autocross video is hilarious.
Just AWESOME, thanks for sharing!
Hey Ben - thanks for sharing your journey, great video. I particularly liked your approach to the chassis, and the design of the riveting. How has that held up in use? Has the chassis softened in use? And did you consider adding glue to the joints?
Good questions! I had planned to use adhesive on the Indy car but didn’t because I honestly didn’t think the car would work first time out and I’d be disassembling panels and trying again. But that car has had 8 to 10 events a year for 6 years now and has held up beautifully. No failed/loosened rivets and not even signs in the paint or anything wiggling. On the GT40 I then planned to use adhesive only to find that the adhesive I wanted to use (it’s used on the floor pans of the Formula Fords I’m used to working with) was discontinued. I then couldn’t find a suitable replacement that had the strength, long working time, and resistance to heat (for around the engine anyways). Because the GT40 being wider allows me to use almost double the amount of rivets as the other car I didn’t worry about it. I did use adhesive in the front half just because I could and wasn’t worried about heat there. It’s only been 8 events I think for that car so far but again nothing has loosened. The Lotus 78 and 79 that I was referring to having loosening rivets were made with a less rigid structure that then had to deal with ground effect downforce. So it was a weaker structure dealing with higher loads than my cars. And also a LOT more track time per season. If I was holding road cars for daily use though, I’d definitely use adhesive everywhere.
@@benbeames thanks for taking the time to respond. In the late 80s I helped build some Reynard F3 cars, from memory, the aluminium floor pan was glued to the bottom of the carbon tub using nothing more exotic than Aladite. The floor pan peeled of on a curb in the first test run! After that the aluminium pan was replaced with plywood.
@@benbeames I know that you were interested in adhesive that is suitable for bonding a chassis. Maybe some clues here: ua-cam.com/video/tNcy2NJ1z_U/v-deo.html
@@jahobbis thanks!!! I had stayed away from anything that needed heat to cure because I don’t have a car sized oven. But the heat gun/ heater idea in this is a great idea!
Not sure if you used bonding along the rivet line between the panels. That can be useful and was a method used in the aircraft industry for may years. I am not sure what adhesive they used.
I love this guy!
Fantastic. Great video and vert informative. Just finished a 427 SC Cobra replica and want to build a GT 40 Mk II with the same 427. Your video gives me great insight. Good engineering and ingenious techniques. Did you use CAD to aid in your design? The rear uprights are from a T-bird, did I understand that correctly.? Cheers from Texas
No CAD, just graph paper. I’m on a computer all day at work so it’s rare to catch me on one when not at work. Yes, 1989 t-bird rear knuckles like this: www.ebay.com/itm/Nos-1989-Ford-Thunderbird-Knuckle-E9SZ-5A968-A/383198469759?chn=ps&norover=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=383198469759&targetid=1645685074768&device=t&googleloc=9032128&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685074768&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh90wWQIahEVr2-R-e9TTjpD4&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0tKiBhC6ARIsAAOXutnBRL4M1NP05WS4DhHAjjU_7kaUrHoKTRdI4Wyu424yd1gN_4lIDeoaAt_kEALw_wcB&pageci=64a0a9b5-e4ee-4cf3-821f-c4dccffbeeb3&redirect=mobile. But they’re harder and harder to find. The newer mustang rear knuckles may be a better option.
Hey! Long shot, but do you happen to have a build thread for this thing?
Unfortunately not. I was a little to busy building it to post about it at the time. But there are plenty of great build threads over at GT40s.com. That's where I go for info.
@@benbeames thanks for the tip! Also curious, you have a photo album from your progress? (Dropbox, other) that you'd consider sharing? As you know, everything helps! (Very much enjoyed this video series btw, thank you for the uploads!)
@@brianward6291 The pictures I have are in the videos already. Wouldn't you rather have plans with dimensions? I don't want to step on the toes of the many replica makers out there, some of which have helped me and all of which we need for parts availability. However I've been thinking of the info I found on the internet when I started and I'm working on taking some of those diagrams and turning them into a basic design drawing with dimensions that people can use as a generic starting place. I'll post it with a future video when its done.
@@benbeames Agreed! Those would be FAR superior. Subscribed, following, very interested!
@@brianward6291
In the meantime here's some resources you might want to check out:
Measurmenents from a post in the Locost communinity: www.dropbox.com/s/htn5lfgrkwichzl/a225497-GT40%20Frame%2003.jpg?dl=0 and www.dropbox.com/s/e147bqqu70haya6/GT40%20Measurements.jpg?dl=0
Some original technical drawings can be found here (I think, not sure as I've never seen the book in person and it definitley doesn't contain EVERYTHING): porterpress.co.uk/products/ford-gt40-book
Add some other, possibly sketchy sources are here (I've not looked at these either): www.carandclassic.com/car/C1509843 and grabcad.com/library/gt40-mk1-original-mk-1-chassis-blueprints-1
If you spend some time on google you'll probably find more.
Where did you purchase your body from? I am planning an upcoming build very similar to yours, thanks.
I got the nose on eBay, the roof from cushmancomptetion.com, the doors and tail from a place that doesn’t exist anymore and made the sills, nose insert, and tail spoiler myself. There’s a guy in Main that’s supposed to make good bodies. Hold on I’ll see if I can find his name.
Bill Hough is the guy’s name but I don’t have any contact info for him.
I bet your son would love drifting! You should give it a try sometime, it's a lot of fun and really challenges your driving.
Oh if he saw what drifters can do he’d know just how lame my driving really is!
..... it's a fast car !
A would have done it the RCR style aluminium monocoque. No rivets.
The RCR chassis is a great modern way to do it! I like making things in the fashion they were done in period. And that means rivets. Plus I just think rivets looks cool. That the metal doesn’t expand and shift while you’re welding is a nice bonus.
Your kid is developing his preferences. This is normal. He will reach the girl stage soon, but he will always remember these times with his dad, and pine for them later.
Are you considering sharing build details? Sketches etc. I'd be very interested in those.
I don't want to step on the toes of many replica makers out there who guys like us need for parts availability. But I am going to go into more detail about the plans in a future video and share some of the info I found on the internet that's already out there. Things like these measurmenents from a post in the Locost communinity: www.dropbox.com/s/htn5lfgrkwichzl/a225497-GT40%20Frame%2003.jpg?dl=0 and www.dropbox.com/s/e147bqqu70haya6/GT40%20Measurements.jpg?dl=0
Some original technical drawings can be found here (I think, not sure as I've never seen the book in person and it definitley doesn't contain EVERYTHING): porterpress.co.uk/products/ford-gt40-book
Add some other, possibly sketchy sources are here (I've not looked a tthese either): www.carandclassic.com/car/C1509843 and grabcad.com/library/gt40-mk1-original-mk-1-chassis-blueprints-1
If you spend some time on google you'll probably find more.
@@benbeames Thank you very much Ben. I've actually gone pretty far down the rabbit hole. I have a set of plans for the original GT-40 -- those that leaked out, plus a few other original drawings from friends, which let you build a copy of a factory GT-40 from the bottom of the windshield down. They're the ones in your last link. Spent about 300 hours working in CAD to create a 3D model based on them (migrating from FreeCAD to Alibre to Fusion 360). Quickly learned some of those parts are very, very complicated to hand fabricate. Was planning to CNC my own hammer forms and create as accurate a copy of the original chassis as I could. Then one day I asked myself -- why ? A ZF RBT-5 was quoted at $18K to me. My goal is 25K complete. It became obvious that it would be pointless to build a toolroom copy of the original chasses That's when I decided to focus on the some route you chose. Build something street worthy (my goal) and leave "original" to SuperFormance. Looking forward to going through the links. Anything to shorten the learning curve. BTW, a friend bought the porterpress book and said it added only a few drawings to the ones that are already in circulation. Worth it to him, since he's making a tool room copy, but not to me.
Major respect, btw. I've already built an airplane from plans, so I understand how long / hard a project like this is. How you ever finished it in 2 years is beyond me.
Oh man, you’ve been fighting the good fight! I love the idea of being as faithful as possible to a piece of history. But yeah when the cost piles up you have to ask yourself is it really worth the expense. I know a guy with a basic tube frame Tornado replica that he used to vintage race and he was really competitive in it. Nowhere close to original in chassis design, but it works. That’s always in the back of my mind. I like monocoques, so i do that but there’s plenty of cars that proved faster than the GT40 as time moved on that were made simpler. CAN-AM cars in particular because their chassis were super simple. They probably weren’t as stiff as a gt40 but they were lighter and faster at a sprint race. So I take a lot of inspiration from them. But back to GT40’s you must know way more than I do on particulars of the chassis. A UA-cam video on you’re journey would be amazing!
@@benbeames Based on your experience, what are the "best" Haynes Manuals for the late 50's thru early 70's cars of similar type ?
@@dennislithgow5904 Good = GT40, Lotus 49, Lotus 72, Jaguar D-Type, and Lola T-70. Decent is The Shelby Cobra and Ferrari 512.
Man in the days when 2200lbs with big ol' push rod V8 was a heavy race car... How times change.
Although, at least nowadays they're nowhere near as deadly. So there is that.
Having a GT40 mkII in parallel on my PC to look for differences
Man that kid is a grade A hater