Electric Tractor Conversion - Spinning Wheel the first time
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- Опубліковано 7 чер 2024
- Converting a classic tractor to electric, I give you a tour of the work so far and spin the wheels for the first time!
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YES! This is exciting. The current electric tractor/skid steer etc. market availability is so limited this could be a viable route.
Very cool. You've done a lot of work to get to this point. I'd like to do this with my old Allis someday.
Having it set up like that is just how my international m tractor is!! It works fine just a little different getting used to it!!
That is so exciting! Great progress on this project!
Nice work Ben, can't wait to see this thing outside making some miles. 👍
Congrats Ben!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Definitely not immediate satisfaction but SATISFACTION nonetheless!
Nice, the great thing about conversions like this is you take a reliable machine, remove a lot of complexity and parts you may no longer get and open it up to decades of new use. 20-30 years from now it should still be working but it may have new better batteries. The motor is durable, kept cool the motor controller should be and you have no proprietary tech to anchor the machine, no planned obsolescence.
No John Deere saying “You can’t fix that!”
@@BenjaminNelsonX very practical for stuff like this. Seems like with the weight to power ratio, under 25 hp is very economical with lifepo4 and you can solar charge up to 100 volts with mppt controllers.
Exciting times. A small farm could be nearly fuel free.
Thanks Ben, this is coming along nicely! Next one will be ready to plow and pull for sure 🙂
👍💪✌
the screws holding the plate along with the washers that are "standoffs" are going to be the weak point, a lot of torque might crack them. I'd go and add a smaller "washer' plate stacked up there to connect to the bigger plate, if that makes sense.
Looking good! When you say that the transmission was only designed to spin one direction I agree that this is true but did someone actually tell you that there are elements in the transmission that wouldn't work in reverse direction? If so what were they? oil pump maybe?
I physically couldn’t spin it the other direction by hand. It can spin the one direction, but not the other.
Congrats on wheelspin - that's a major milestone! I do have a little concern with the thickness of the adapter plate... With the big torque of the motor combined with vibration you may get small tears in the metal around the bolt holes leading to a Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly. Don't be afraid to get a much thicker piece after this prototyping phase.
P.S. Have you heard about the EVCCON convention in September? Would be great to meet you there, I'll be upgrading my 914 with 6 Tesla battery modules.
Yes, that metal is a little thin, but it's what I had handy, and it's easy to cut and drill. The original engine mounting plate is 1/4", so that's what I always planned on using for any final configuration.
Hmm. I really hadn't thought about EVCCON. I just looked and I could drive there in a day, and don't have much on my calendar at that time. I'll check to see if I can make it.
@@BenjaminNelsonXI figured you had a plan! Great, hope to see you there.
Before you get too far down the path you're heading, contemplate putting a PTO implement on there, like say a flail mower. Start it while at a stand-still, which is what one is supposed to do, and now put in in gear to pull forward in a controlled manner.
To know and understand what's going to happen, get into a regular automatic transmission car, put it in neutral, rev the engine to around 3 or 4 thousand RPMs, and shift into drive.
You need to power the PTO and the drive wheels independently of one another.
The one limitation of this setup is that it cant start the PTO and THEN start moving the wheels. It CAN start moving the wheels and THEN start the PTO.
@@BenjaminNelsonX I know you've already touched on this... But it might be helpful to do a deeper dive and clarify that your 300 has the "Independent" PTO option (and maybe explain what that is) which means that there's a separate clutch in the back to activate and deactivate the PTO. Your 300 is not using the main transmission clutch foot pedal to engage / disengage the PTO (Which is the more commonly used method sometimes referred to as "live" PTO) instead that lever to the right hand side of the seat activates and deactivates an actual clutch assembly which allows you to engage the PTO while the motor and wheels are at speed.
The one downside to what you did is by welding together those gear sprockets: you tied the PTO and transmission together so that when you push the clutch in to stop any momentum in your mower will "push" the transmission with more force than your brakes will be able to resist. But as long as you have an over-run clutch on the PTO output that should solve that issue.
@@JeremyAkersInAustin
Yeah, I've been thinking about shooting a video specific to the PTO.
The tough part of this is that I pretty limited experience with tractors - mostly what I've learned by working on this project! Whereas my UA-cam audience is half people with ZERO tractor knowledge/experience and half with WAY MORE than I do!
Makes it challenging to create good videos with such a diverse audience!
I saw you mention the transmission is one way rotation, but I don't think that's a real concern here. The main concern you should watch is PTO rotation. Most PTO equipment has one-way drive ratchets so that when you slow the tractor with the PTO spinning the equipment won't over-ride the brakes. It also looks like you have plenty of room to mount that forklift hydraulic power unit in front of your drive motor if you just run longer hydraulic hoses back to the valve spools. I'm not sure how much you've played with the hydraulics, but they should hold position without the power unit running, so you would only have to power the hydraulic pump when you are moving the hydraulic levers.
The issue with the transmission is that it literally only spins the one way. As in “the motor will break something” if trying to spin it the other direction.
In front of the drive motor was the original plan for locating the hydraulic pump. I just didn’t have the hose length for it.
If I end up using a larger drive motor, then the hydraulic pump motor will have to go on the side somewhere, a bit like how I have it. (Only more securely held than just ratchet straps!)
I own and have used a LOT of PTO powered equipment over the years... And I have only ever seen one piece of equipment with a built in over-ride clutch. The vast majority of PTO equipment does not have this protection built in. You typically have to buy an over-ride clutch that attaches to the output shaft of the PTO on the tractor. I have an old Farmall Super H (Which is the "row crop" version of the International 300 Ben is converting here) and I have to use an over-ride clutch on all my equipment because otherwise the kinetic energy in the mower/tiller/shredder, etc will easily over-power the brakes when I try to stop.
This is why tractors moved away from having the PTO input and transmission input tied together in the late 50s: If the PTO is spinning: Then so is the transmission. Pushing the clutch and slamming the brakes will do you no good when that brush hog is spinning at full speed.
There have been quite a few Ford 8N conversions. Part of that is there's still a lot of those tractors out there, but I think the other part of it is just how SIMPLE they were.
Separate drive, PTO, and hydraulic systems VERY much complicates converting a tractor to electric.
@@BenjaminNelsonX
If your worried that the transmission is going to break if you spin it backwards, then I'd disable the regen function, as that will put the same reversed forces through the transmission.
Nice project though.