Great advice Mike, especially the "get you home" fix. I will carry a home made 24mm in my emergency tool kit now. It will fit next to the emergency welder that I keep in the emergency tow truck that follows me wherever I go!
I have to be the worst for carrying tools - an adjustable, a hammer and a Phillips screwdriver usually - and my mobile with the tow truck number on - just in case but never needed it yet! Mike
Great video. I've fashioned all manner of spanners and used crow feet spanners thread lubricant and she won't budge. From what I can see of the thread it looks good, only a few mm mind. No corrosion. So I can only guess it's cross threaded. Anyone else had such issues removing? Next step is to apply heat. Hopefully that will help.
Thanks for the video. This is very helpful as the Haynes manual really doesn't show just how difficult access is. This solenoid is faulty on my Landy so I've got a new one to swap them over. Thankfully I do have a 24mm spanner. Incidently, I'm 56 now but when I was a youngster I couldn't afford quality tools and my Grandad who was a mechanic told me that if I was skint and couldn't afford Shefield made tools, to buy Indian tools instead. I was puzzled by this and asked him why Indian tools were a good alternative, his answer was, who do you think taught the Indians to make steel? Seems like he had a point, especially when you look at their old railways still running so well today!
One of my old muckers in Guisborough went to India in the 70's to show the Indians how to make steel - He was with British Steel at the time We don't half rib him now the Redcar steel works have closed down - it was his fault! lol!
Thanks for that video, I had an issue starting my vehicle at the weekend and after changing the mechanical lift pump and then resorting to gravity fed fuel to the filter housing and then testing the trigger live to the solenoid and finding that to be fine, the solenoid must be kaput, hence my question... so many thanks again for the reply and the video.
Your welcome - sometimes it is simpler to do a video than write it down here! A quick test I do is keep the ignition on and pull the wire on and off the solenoid - no clicking = kaput! Mike
Any idea why the rubber ends on the plunger get chewed up? Had 2 plungers disintegrate on one pump, changed pump, and the third plunger just got chewed up too. Can't switch engine off, got to stall it because just enough diesel gets past the knobbled plunger.
Should I remove the small o-ring if I want to test starting the car without the pin and spring attached? Just wondering could it drop in without the pin in place?
I've got a 1989 fiat ducato that has a dead solenoid valve. But it's really stuck! I have a 24mm wrench that I cut shorter to reach the solenoid but it doesn't move. Do you have good tips how I could get it open? Rustoff & wd40 used already.
Does it have a bracket for the cable that is restricting movement of your key? - You should be able to remove the bracket and gain better access I have not seen a Fiat pump, so cannot be 100% right
Hi Mike. I'm having a similar problem with our old LDV 400 convoy, which has the Ford 2.5di engine. The pump looks very similar as is the location of the stop solonoid. Would you happen to know if its the same location. Ours runs but won't stop?? Love the spanner adaptation...old school like me!! 👍 regards Mick
Evening Mike Just a quick question . I have stripped and rebuilt my 200tdi defender engine ,almost ready to start it for the first time , I want to flush the injector pump out to make sure there's no dirty fuel, etc, in it whats the best way ? I had thought about aiming the pipes to the injectors into a bucket and turning the engine over . Any tips ? Cheers Matt
You will never really clean a pump out by flushing it as there are lots of cavities in there, but yes blow the pipes out into a bucket is better than nothing
Just rebuilt my 200tdi ground starter it now before install but got diesel to injectors not 100% sure if the solenoid should make a sound if I connect to the pos on the batt didnt hear anything but if it didnt work would diesel still get to the injectors ? it fired instantly with barely a sniff of start ya bastard any ideas ?
I'm trying to make a simple rev limiter for my diesel engine with the same pump. I don't want to damage it from over revving it which isn't hard to do because it is a workhorse that lives on maximum duty cycle most of the time. The only thing I can use is that solenoid. I\ll probably have to route the solenoid through something that reads RPM signal and shuts it off if the signal gets to a set point, then turns it back on when it drops to another point that will be designated as safe. In this case probably 3900rpm cutoff, 3800rpm safe to turn back on. Will cycling the solenoid quickly like that burn it out? I'm aware it has a limited number of cycles, but I'd rather spend money on solenoids than on new engines.
Designed courtesy of the ministry of crap design... replaced mine 2 or 3 times. Twice because valve wont close. My suggestion is rrun a better quality shut off valve inline just before that one and take plunger out of that one. Job done forever then. The spring is a bit weak in the lr one.
A Cummins 4bt injection pump should bolt up. And it has a lever on the front for mechanical shut-off. I don’t Think it’s realistic to run an in-line valve. Because the circuit that gets blocked off is inside the injection pump. If you were to simply shut off the inlet it would cause extreme stress to the pump and seals. And if you stop the outlet you will have insane fuel pressures. I imagine you could get a Cummins pump. And swap in the 300tdi governor-assembly and spring. But this is theoretical I have not tried it.
@@fastinradfordable I ended up getting the pump rebuilt for an unrelated reason. I used a Bosch specialist with all genuine parts incl new solenoid and filter. Been perfect since. Im just going to use genuine parts/filter.. hopefully wont need a solenoid again.
Thank you for tips. Solenoids are available not only from bosch, and no so expensive, example: FAE 73012.
Great advice Mike, especially the "get you home" fix. I will carry a home made 24mm in my emergency tool kit now. It will fit next to the emergency welder that I keep in the emergency tow truck that follows me wherever I go!
I have to be the worst for carrying tools - an adjustable, a hammer and a Phillips screwdriver usually - and my mobile with the tow truck number on - just in case but never needed it yet!
Mike
Thanks,great tip. Got a vw syncro with the same pump that is not passing fuel, fingers crossed that’s the problem.
Good luck!
Another great, practical video - Thanks Mike
You're welcome!
Mike
Nice one Mike, I've learnt another tip today!
Thanks!More to come - watch this space!Mike
Great video. I've fashioned all manner of spanners and used crow feet spanners thread lubricant and she won't budge. From what I can see of the thread it looks good, only a few mm mind. No corrosion. So I can only guess it's cross threaded. Anyone else had such issues removing? Next step is to apply heat. Hopefully that will help.
They should spin off easy as there is only an O ring as a seal
@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike, I'm going to remove the pump, only way it's going to work. Good excuse to do the timing belt.
Thanks for the video. This is very helpful as the Haynes manual really doesn't show just how difficult access is. This solenoid is faulty on my Landy so I've got a new one to swap them over. Thankfully I do have a 24mm spanner. Incidently, I'm 56 now but when I was a youngster I couldn't afford quality tools and my Grandad who was a mechanic told me that if I was skint and couldn't afford Shefield made tools, to buy Indian tools instead. I was puzzled by this and asked him why Indian tools were a good alternative, his answer was, who do you think taught the Indians to make steel? Seems like he had a point, especially when you look at their old railways still running so well today!
One of my old muckers in Guisborough went to India in the 70's to show the Indians how to make steel - He was with British Steel at the time
We don't half rib him now the Redcar steel works have closed down - it was his fault!
lol!
Thanks for that video, I had an issue starting my vehicle at the weekend and after changing the mechanical lift pump and then resorting to gravity fed fuel to the filter housing and then testing the trigger live to the solenoid and finding that to be fine, the solenoid must be kaput, hence my question... so many thanks again for the reply and the video.
Your welcome - sometimes it is simpler to do a video than write it down here!
A quick test I do is keep the ignition on and pull the wire on and off the solenoid - no clicking = kaput!
Mike
That's the conclusion I came to.
Super ciekawy
hello did you make a video showing the dismantling of the injection pump on a 200 tdi???
Any idea why the rubber ends on the plunger get chewed up? Had 2 plungers disintegrate on one pump, changed pump, and the third plunger just got chewed up too. Can't switch engine off, got to stall it because just enough diesel gets past the knobbled plunger.
Most unusual problem - never had one go
Should I remove the small o-ring if I want to test starting the car without the pin and spring attached? Just wondering could it drop in without the pin in place?
You can take the pin out, but you will have to stall to stop, or cut the fuel supply somehow
I think you can stop the engine with the min idle lever that the throttle cable moves under.
I've got a 1989 fiat ducato that has a dead solenoid valve. But it's really stuck! I have a 24mm wrench that I cut shorter to reach the solenoid but it doesn't move. Do you have good tips how I could get it open? Rustoff & wd40 used already.
Does it have a bracket for the cable that is restricting movement of your key? - You should be able to remove the bracket and gain better access
I have not seen a Fiat pump, so cannot be 100% right
My car finally started and it was the faulty solenoid that caused problems.This video is a pure gem, thank you!@@BritannicaRestorations
Hi Mike. I'm having a similar problem with our old LDV 400 convoy, which has the Ford 2.5di engine. The pump looks very similar as is the location of the stop solonoid. Would you happen to know if its the same location. Ours runs but won't stop?? Love the spanner adaptation...old school like me!! 👍 regards Mick
I cannot say Mike - never see one of those motors for 25 years!
Evening Mike
Just a quick question . I have stripped and rebuilt my 200tdi defender engine ,almost ready to start it for the first time , I want to flush the injector pump out to make sure there's no dirty fuel, etc, in it whats the best way ? I had thought about aiming the pipes to the injectors into a bucket and turning the engine over . Any tips ?
Cheers
Matt
You will never really clean a pump out by flushing it as there are lots of cavities in there, but yes blow the pipes out into a bucket is better than nothing
@Britannica Restorations Ltd thanks for the reply 👍
Just rebuilt my 200tdi ground starter it now before install but got diesel to injectors not 100% sure if the solenoid should make a sound if I connect to the pos on the batt didnt hear anything but if it didnt work would diesel still get to the injectors ? it fired instantly with barely a sniff of start ya bastard any ideas ?
If it starts, it is working!
I'm trying to make a simple rev limiter for my diesel engine with the same pump. I don't want to damage it from over revving it which isn't hard to do because it is a workhorse that lives on maximum duty cycle most of the time. The only thing I can use is that solenoid. I\ll probably have to route the solenoid through something that reads RPM signal and shuts it off if the signal gets to a set point, then turns it back on when it drops to another point that will be designated as safe. In this case probably 3900rpm cutoff, 3800rpm safe to turn back on.
Will cycling the solenoid quickly like that burn it out? I'm aware it has a limited number of cycles, but I'd rather spend money on solenoids than on new engines.
The factory setting is 4,600 Rpm - why not adjust the pump on the side to reduce rpm?
@@BritannicaRestorations it's an Isuzu engine, it revs to just over 7k if you step on it unfortunately 😅
Actually we did try adjusting it to as low as it can go but it still goes to 5500 and is held back by the viscous fan, also a lot lower on power
No idea - This was for Land Rover Bosch VE pumps
@@BritannicaRestorations ya, mine has the same pump on it. I guess I will have to get a spare solenoid and do a trial by fire
...I have a cut down 24mm spanner with thinned sides that I keep handy for this pain in the arse job :)
Yeap, but I only have 2 x 24mm quality spanners, and 20 x old 3/4 inch!Mike
It’s a lot easier with the pump off than on ...ask my knuckles..
Designed courtesy of the ministry of crap design... replaced mine 2 or 3 times. Twice because valve wont close. My suggestion is rrun a better quality shut off valve inline just before that one and take plunger out of that one. Job done forever then. The spring is a bit weak in the lr one.
hi Great idea. Can you say what is the best location for the inline shut off valve? Does it work instantly when you switch off?
A Cummins 4bt injection pump should bolt up. And it has a lever on the front for mechanical shut-off.
I don’t Think it’s realistic to run an in-line valve.
Because the circuit that gets blocked off is inside the injection pump.
If you were to simply shut off the inlet it would cause extreme stress to the pump and seals.
And if you stop the outlet you will have insane fuel pressures.
I imagine you could get a Cummins pump.
And swap in the 300tdi governor-assembly and spring.
But this is theoretical I have not tried it.
@@fastinradfordable I ended up getting the pump rebuilt for an unrelated reason. I used a Bosch specialist with all genuine parts incl new solenoid and filter. Been perfect since. Im just going to use genuine parts/filter.. hopefully wont need a solenoid again.