Erhard, be sure to go to my coffee youtube channel "the virtual coffee lab" where I have all my new videos. I am uploading a new video there every week. Here is a video how I roast my coffee ua-cam.com/video/lZZbVwLkbmQ/v-deo.html Thanks for checking out my channel!
As a Hottop roaster this is like a wet dream for heat and ROR control!!! I always imagined the lack of delay would be satisfying and your ET graph compared to what I get really illustrates this difference. I'm jealous!
Hi Ed, thanks for your comments. All of my new coffee videos (there are 14 so far) that come out weekly. Checkout my Virtual Coffee Lab channel ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html for my videos.
Ian, All of my new coffee videos (there are 14 so far) that come out weekly. Checkout my Virtual Coffee Lab channel ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html for my videos.
charles, all of my new coffee content is over at the Virtual Coffee Lab so subscribe over there and checkout the videos ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html . I just did a video that talks about charge temperatures and roasting times. when we roasted a colombian gesha!
Nice video, I'm thinking of getting this roaster. How come you don't have the drum speed showing on artisan? I've seen some others using artisan that show sliders on the left side and another row of buttons below the other row. I have no idea what they are all about.
I usually keep my drum speed at a constant while roasting. I used to change the speed to give me a little bump in my ROR but now keep a constant. So I don't have a need to document it for this particular roaster.
@@mikeszone hello Mike, Yes I did, I like your videos, you make roasting look easy and your videos encouraged me to learn more about roasting. thank you
Hi Trevor. Not all Huehuetenango's are the same. This was from a seller on Amazon and it was ok. There were no cupping scores on the listing. There was not as much sweetness as I have tasted in other Huehue's. There were nutty and molasses notes with a slight cherry acidity. I hear you're going to get a larger roaster? Congrats!
@@mikeszone Totally, the region produces many various qualities of coffees. A seller on Amazon, never even would have thought to look there. Sounds like a decent cup. Yes Sir, hoping to have it installed by the beginning of the year.
Hi Bill. I have had a couple of minor issues with my roaster. They all related to regular maintenance so I guess I wouln't consider them problems. 1. Front bearing replacement every 8 months or so. This is a 10 dollar repair that takes about 10 minutes to do. Not a big deal. 2. Ignitors need to be replaced. After about 7 years, my ignitors started to get flakey and not work all the time. It isn't a big deal. I can use a lighter and still use the roaster. I am in the process of removing the ignitors and sending them into Mill City so they can make sure they match the right size. Apparently there are a couple of different sized versions? Other than that I have had no issues with the roaster and would recommend to anyone.
@@mikeszone great I have problem with mine the usb port is built in on mine so when I plugged in my computer it blow the 220 side and blow the transformer I have contact Mill City been taking to a engineer but he keeps telling me to buy transformers I have went through 3 already and he can’t figure out the issue I’m thinking I’ll see about getting a electrician to come and look at it
That stinks. Sorry about that. I'm surprized Mill City isn't able to help. consider what has changed since this began to occur. Did you move the roaster? Did you change USB cables?
@@mikeszone thanks Mike didn’t move it I just plugged it in the USB then the front of the roaster stopped working it turns on but the drum won’t turn the cooling fan don’t come on and the light won’t turn on.
Nice to see how someone else roasts on the Mill City 500g. I have had mine for about a year but it's my backup/sample roaster and I haven't done a lot of roasts on it. I am always interested to see relative gas and airflow changes and watching the temperature changes - I have much thinner probes than you and the BT probe is still currently located in the "old" spot close to the centre bearing (looks like you've already put a bolt in there to block the hole) so I know my responsiveness is always going to be different than yours, but I was surprised how little your temperatures jittered. Are you connecting to a Phidgets box?
Brett, thanks for your comments. Yes, I am connected to the Phidget that comes with the roaster. There may be some artisan settings that smooth the curve. I 'll do another roast along in the near future and talk about my artisan settings.
Thanks for your message. I have a video i made about "how to roast without using artisan" found here ua-cam.com/video/cx-DQouGZ0o/v-deo.html If you are asking how to setup artisan logging software for your machine I am not able to help. I would suggets you go to the artisan software website where they have all of the instructions and help files with pictures. Sorry I can't be more helpfu.
Hi Kaleb, First, be sure to subscribe to my new coffee channel "Virtual Coffee Lab", ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html because that is where all of my coffee roasting content is going. I won't be adding anymore coffee content on MikesZone youtube channel in the future. To answer your question, it all depends on your roaster and roasting style. Here is an example of my complete roast style ua-cam.com/video/lZZbVwLkbmQ/v-deo.html . Assuming you have a drum roaster where you have control to have a variable temperature, air and drum speed, you will need to have an idea of how quick or long you want your total roast time to be. Then, for simple starters, break your roast into two even sections. First is the dry time. The second half would be the milliard/browning phase and also the development phase (first crack and beyond). So, say your total roast time is 10 minutes. The first 5 minutes would be the drying phase. So, you will need to do a test roast and adjust from there. Say you pick 375 degrees as your charge temp. Can you reach "dry" in 5 minutes or less? Once you answer that and do a test roast you will start to get an idea of how your roaster performs. Also, your roasting style might be different and you like a shorter dry phase, this will also influence your charge temp. The size and density of the beans will also influence your charge temp. Some beans are more delicate and can't handle a lot of heat in the very beginning and you will get tipping which is a roast defect..... There are a ton of other variables. If you have a roaster and are new to roasting, try this and watch what happens with your times, temperatures and roast phases..... warn your roaster up after warm up, let it cool down to 350 degrees. Turn gas to 50% max gas ability Have air set to just a little positive pressure/flow (use a lighter at the tryer port and get just a little draw on the flame adjust drum speed to 50 rpm Once you reach 380 degrees, turn off gas and charge your roaster (put beans in) After 1 minute with gas off, turn on gas to 60% max and wait, watch how long it takes for Dry End. Assuming it is 4-5 minutes, when you reach dry end, increase air a little and turn gas down to 10% and begin ROR decent. You will need to make adjustments but start with that and see what happens. Hope that helps AND please subscriber to the Virtual Coffee Lab channel because I am posting a new video every week!
Hey Luke. I usually use three fan adjustments on my roasts (low, medium & high). I was nervous on this roast cause i was recording it so I think I forgot to adjust it. I think the setting you see is a reflection and not the small white line on the dial. On the mill city 500 gram, my low setting is about 35 on the dial. Medium is about 45 and high is about 55 or 60. One trait I noticed about air is the more you add, the more difficult it is to control the descent. Has anyone else noticed this? If I keep my air low, my curve is less erratic?
@@mikeszone cool thanks for the feed back. I have the newer 500g roaster and I'm just trying to calibrate my airflow. Too low air and my beans are a little smoky and to high it's a little drying. I find what MILLCITY posts in there new video about airflow is way to high. If you still try to get the same bend with cigarette lighter trick and a loaded roaster Vs empty your settings are about 70 & 85 the for medium and high. I'm sure Scott Rao would mean empty at least for MCR. CHEERS!
@@Wheresthesoul , great observation regarding airflow with a full charge. I will have to compare and see. I know that riding the curve is much more difficult with higher airflow. The gas adjustments are very sensitive. It's like trying to draw a straight line with an etch-a-sketch!
Great video Mike
Very good show of what to do and how to see it on Artisan and the machine.
Erhard, be sure to go to my coffee youtube channel "the virtual coffee lab" where I have all my new videos. I am uploading a new video there every week. Here is a video how I roast my coffee ua-cam.com/video/lZZbVwLkbmQ/v-deo.html Thanks for checking out my channel!
As a Hottop roaster this is like a wet dream for heat and ROR control!!! I always imagined the lack of delay would be satisfying and your ET graph compared to what I get really illustrates this difference. I'm jealous!
Hi Ed, thanks for your comments. All of my new coffee videos (there are 14 so far) that come out weekly. Checkout my Virtual Coffee Lab channel ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html for my videos.
Thanks for making this video! Really helpful!
Ian, All of my new coffee videos (there are 14 so far) that come out weekly. Checkout my Virtual Coffee Lab channel ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html for my videos.
Nice video Mike. Looking forward to your next roasting videos
Thank You .. that was very instructive .. I will try and duplicate your curves ..
charles, all of my new coffee content is over at the Virtual Coffee Lab so subscribe over there and checkout the videos ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html . I just did a video that talks about charge temperatures and roasting times. when we roasted a colombian gesha!
Nice video, I'm thinking of getting this roaster. How come you don't have the drum speed showing on artisan? I've seen some others using artisan that show sliders on the left side and another row of buttons below the other row. I have no idea what they are all about.
I usually keep my drum speed at a constant while roasting. I used to change the speed to give me a little bump in my ROR but now keep a constant. So I don't have a need to document it for this particular roaster.
thank you for sharing
Hello Osama, I saw you subscribed at the Virtual Coffee Lab. Thank you!
@@mikeszone hello Mike, Yes I did, I like your videos, you make roasting look easy and your videos encouraged me to learn more about roasting.
thank you
thanks Pops for this sweet video. I'd love to know the tasting notes you pulled on the cupping table!
Hi Trevor. Not all Huehuetenango's are the same. This was from a seller on Amazon and it was ok. There were no cupping scores on the listing. There was not as much sweetness as I have tasted in other Huehue's. There were nutty and molasses notes with a slight cherry acidity. I hear you're going to get a larger roaster? Congrats!
@@mikeszone Totally, the region produces many various qualities of coffees. A seller on Amazon, never even would have thought to look there. Sounds like a decent cup. Yes Sir, hoping to have it installed by the beginning of the year.
Hey mike have you had any problems with the 500 gr roaster
Hi Bill. I have had a couple of minor issues with my roaster. They all related to regular maintenance so I guess I wouln't consider them problems.
1. Front bearing replacement every 8 months or so. This is a 10 dollar repair that takes about 10 minutes to do. Not a big deal.
2. Ignitors need to be replaced. After about 7 years, my ignitors started to get flakey and not work all the time. It isn't a big deal. I can use a lighter and still use the roaster. I am in the process of removing the ignitors and sending them into Mill City so they can make sure they match the right size. Apparently there are a couple of different sized versions?
Other than that I have had no issues with the roaster and would recommend to anyone.
@@mikeszone great I have problem with mine the usb port is built in on mine so when I plugged in my computer it blow the 220 side and blow the transformer I have contact Mill City been taking to a engineer but he keeps telling me to buy transformers I have went through 3 already and he can’t figure out the issue I’m thinking I’ll see about getting a electrician to come and look at it
That stinks. Sorry about that. I'm surprized Mill City isn't able to help. consider what has changed since this began to occur. Did you move the roaster? Did you change USB cables?
@@mikeszone thanks Mike didn’t move it I just plugged it in the USB then the front of the roaster stopped working it turns on but the drum won’t turn the cooling fan don’t come on and the light won’t turn on.
Nice to see how someone else roasts on the Mill City 500g. I have had mine for about a year but it's my backup/sample roaster and I haven't done a lot of roasts on it. I am always interested to see relative gas and airflow changes and watching the temperature changes - I have much thinner probes than you and the BT probe is still currently located in the "old" spot close to the centre bearing (looks like you've already put a bolt in there to block the hole) so I know my responsiveness is always going to be different than yours, but I was surprised how little your temperatures jittered. Are you connecting to a Phidgets box?
Brett, thanks for your comments. Yes, I am connected to the Phidget that comes with the roaster. There may be some artisan settings that smooth the curve. I 'll do another roast along in the near future and talk about my artisan settings.
Hi sir I have also same machine but not showing in artisan software what do I do plz reply
Thanks for your message. I have a video i made about "how to roast without using artisan" found here ua-cam.com/video/cx-DQouGZ0o/v-deo.html
If you are asking how to setup artisan logging software for your machine I am not able to help. I would suggets you go to the artisan software website where they have all of the instructions and help files with pictures. Sorry I can't be more helpfu.
How do you determine at what temperature you charge your beans at?
Hi Kaleb, First, be sure to subscribe to my new coffee channel "Virtual Coffee Lab", ua-cam.com/channels/N82dHiZsPXk80URpDVsbsg.html because that is where all of my coffee roasting content is going. I won't be adding anymore coffee content on MikesZone youtube channel in the future.
To answer your question, it all depends on your roaster and roasting style. Here is an example of my complete roast style ua-cam.com/video/lZZbVwLkbmQ/v-deo.html .
Assuming you have a drum roaster where you have control to have a variable temperature, air and drum speed, you will need to have an idea of how quick or long you want your total roast time to be. Then, for simple starters, break your roast into two even sections. First is the dry time. The second half would be the milliard/browning phase and also the development phase (first crack and beyond). So, say your total roast time is 10 minutes. The first 5 minutes would be the drying phase. So, you will need to do a test roast and adjust from there. Say you pick 375 degrees as your charge temp. Can you reach "dry" in 5 minutes or less?
Once you answer that and do a test roast you will start to get an idea of how your roaster performs. Also, your roasting style might be different and you like a shorter dry phase, this will also influence your charge temp. The size and density of the beans will also influence your charge temp. Some beans are more delicate and can't handle a lot of heat in the very beginning and you will get tipping which is a roast defect..... There are a ton of other variables.
If you have a roaster and are new to roasting, try this and watch what happens with your times, temperatures and roast phases.....
warn your roaster up
after warm up, let it cool down to 350 degrees.
Turn gas to 50% max gas ability
Have air set to just a little positive pressure/flow (use a lighter at the tryer port and get just a little draw on the flame
adjust drum speed to 50 rpm
Once you reach 380 degrees, turn off gas and charge your roaster (put beans in)
After 1 minute with gas off, turn on gas to 60% max and wait, watch how long it takes for Dry End.
Assuming it is 4-5 minutes, when you reach dry end, increase air a little and turn gas down to 10% and begin ROR decent.
You will need to make adjustments but start with that and see what happens.
Hope that helps AND please subscriber to the Virtual Coffee Lab channel because I am posting a new video every week!
@@mikeszone awesome thanks!
Thanks for sharing 👍. What was your fan adjustments? Looked like it was super low the whole time. Cheers
Hey Luke. I usually use three fan adjustments on my roasts (low, medium & high). I was nervous on this roast cause i was recording it so I think I forgot to adjust it. I think the setting you see is a reflection and not the small white line on the dial. On the mill city 500 gram, my low setting is about 35 on the dial. Medium is about 45 and high is about 55 or 60. One trait I noticed about air is the more you add, the more difficult it is to control the descent. Has anyone else noticed this? If I keep my air low, my curve is less erratic?
@@mikeszone cool thanks for the feed back. I have the newer 500g roaster and I'm just trying to calibrate my airflow. Too low air and my beans are a little smoky and to high it's a little drying. I find what MILLCITY posts in there new video about airflow is way to high. If you still try to get the same bend with cigarette lighter trick and a loaded roaster Vs empty your settings are about 70 & 85 the for medium and high. I'm sure Scott Rao would mean empty at least for MCR. CHEERS!
@@Wheresthesoul , great observation regarding airflow with a full charge. I will have to compare and see. I know that riding the curve is much more difficult with higher airflow. The gas adjustments are very sensitive. It's like trying to draw a straight line with an etch-a-sketch!