FYI: The Ikea handle was not the best choice. Its screws are very long and thin, and after making several cuts through 8/4 maple they started to bend. The jig's been seeing a LOT of service with and without it though, will update the video and repost when I either make or get a new more robust handle.
Hi - this is a great video, and I made a Fritz and Franz inspired by it. I was very frustrated by the Lee Valley stops, however, and replaced with the Jonathan Katz ones. They are fantastic. I also attached the track from below with T Bolts, so it’s adjustable should I decide I need to adjust it (it’s .2mm off, and I’m sure I will spend 2 hours at some point trying to get it perfect). Of course with the Katz stops, I can just adjust the stops instead of the track. I don’t think I can attach a picture in the comments, but will try to send one.
Thanks! J.Katz is a champ, gonna go check out his stops right now 😄. I haven’t had any issues with my Lee Valley ones yet, but maybe I’ve been lucky (?).
Hello and thank you for making this video. Would you be kind enough to share the details of the articulating lite you have attached to your bandsaw? Many thanks.
It's Laguna's Woodturners Lathe Light, but it fits their bandsaw's too (and comes with a generic clamp for non-Laguna equipment too). It's called the LED Chameleon 95CRI Lamp. I'm in Canada and was told by my local tool store that it hasn't been certified for use here yet, so I ordered it straight from Laguna and have had no issues. Link: www.shop.lagunatools.com/Laguna-LED-Chameleon-95CRI-Woodturners-Lathe-Lamp
Interesting, I used a giant 4"x6" douglas fir board as the substrate for my F&F jig. I cut two 18" pieces and squared them up then stuck the rail on top of that. Did you find you needed to retrim the back side of the jig's zero clearance surface? I ended up with a bit of play in my back runner and needed to retrim.
So far I’ve had no play and no need to retrim the zero clearance edge (fingers crossed) despite constant use. I think the dado was largely responsible. I was very pleased to have gotten it just right. 4”x6” sounds awesomely robust!
So do I! It's Laguna's Woodturners Lathe Light, but it fits their bandsaw's too (and comes with a generic clamp for non-Laguna equipment too). It's called the LED Chameleon 95CRI Lamp. I'm in Canada and was told by my local tool store that it hasn't been certified for use here yet, so I ordered it straight from Laguna and have had no issues.
I got mine at Lee Valley tools. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/jig-and-fixture-parts/32045-uhmw-polyethylene?item=46J9014&CAN-EN%7CPLA%7CShopping%7CHardware%7CNon-displayItems&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBlev5eDp6cu7uRmoZg5GSXLuia3G_VX0aYDpXQprZOMP5hBfnp2zbbB0aAswXEALw_wcB
I don't know why everyone makes the F&F jig so complicated. I have ben using the F&F jig for well over 10 years and all it is is two bits of MDF with runners and some sand paper faces made in about 20 minutes, no measuring is needed as that should be done using the rip fence as a measured bump stop.
@@duster8100 I like it for the small hobby stuff I’ve been doing lately, which keeps everything on the slider side, but you’re totally right! Thx for the comment✌🏻
F&F jigs do not need tracks and flip stops or even measuring tapes. Use the rip fence to measure the cut off to the needed dimension and simplify the build to two bits of wood and a handle if you need one but in 12 years of using an F&F jig I have never had a handle. The flip stop thing comes from using cabinet saws and if you go back to the original video they used a handle but it is not necessary. I am sure the craze for having flip stops etc comes from cabinet saw users who have changed to a slider.
For the small stuff I’ve been cutting lately I prefer having the bulk of the piece on the slider and the cutoff on the rip fence side of the slider. I should be using the crosscut fence for my measurements, but my scales are Imperial and I’ve been slow to call Felder to get a metric replacement. 😄. Thanks for commenting!👍🏻
FYI: The Ikea handle was not the best choice. Its screws are very long and thin, and after making several cuts through 8/4 maple they started to bend. The jig's been seeing a LOT of service with and without it though, will update the video and repost when I either make or get a new more robust handle.
No you didn't. You are a procrastinator just like the rest of us. Ha
@@robertcornelius3514ha ha ha, you are absolutely correct! 😂 And it’s working fine without the handle, thanks!
Hi - this is a great video, and I made a Fritz and Franz inspired by it. I was very frustrated by the Lee Valley stops, however, and replaced with the Jonathan Katz ones. They are fantastic. I also attached the track from below with T Bolts, so it’s adjustable should I decide I need to adjust it (it’s .2mm off, and I’m sure I will spend 2 hours at some point trying to get it perfect). Of course with the Katz stops, I can just adjust the stops instead of the track.
I don’t think I can attach a picture in the comments, but will try to send one.
Thanks! J.Katz is a champ, gonna go check out his stops right now 😄. I haven’t had any issues with my Lee Valley ones yet, but maybe I’ve been lucky (?).
Hello and thank you for making this video. Would you be kind enough to share the details of the articulating lite you have attached to your bandsaw? Many thanks.
It's Laguna's Woodturners Lathe Light, but it fits their bandsaw's too (and comes with a generic clamp for non-Laguna equipment too). It's called the LED Chameleon 95CRI Lamp. I'm in Canada and was told by my local tool store that it hasn't been certified for use here yet, so I ordered it straight from Laguna and have had no issues.
Link: www.shop.lagunatools.com/Laguna-LED-Chameleon-95CRI-Woodturners-Lathe-Lamp
Enjoyed the video and a very interesting design. I noticed you used a dado blade during the construction, what brand is this blade?
Thanks! It's an 8" Dado set from Royce. The model number is 3008400M
Interesting, I used a giant 4"x6" douglas fir board as the substrate for my F&F jig. I cut two 18" pieces and squared them up then stuck the rail on top of that. Did you find you needed to retrim the back side of the jig's zero clearance surface? I ended up with a bit of play in my back runner and needed to retrim.
So far I’ve had no play and no need to retrim the zero clearance edge (fingers crossed) despite constant use. I think the dado was largely responsible. I was very pleased to have gotten it just right. 4”x6” sounds awesomely robust!
I love the task light you have on your bandsaw!! Where can I get one?
So do I! It's Laguna's Woodturners Lathe Light, but it fits their bandsaw's too (and comes with a generic clamp for non-Laguna equipment too). It's called the LED Chameleon 95CRI Lamp. I'm in Canada and was told by my local tool store that it hasn't been certified for use here yet, so I ordered it straight from Laguna and have had no issues.
Link: www.shop.lagunatools.com/Laguna-LED-Chameleon-95CRI-Woodturners-Lathe-Lamp
Where did you get the polymer ?
I got mine at Lee Valley tools. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/jig-and-fixture-parts/32045-uhmw-polyethylene?item=46J9014&CAN-EN%7CPLA%7CShopping%7CHardware%7CNon-displayItems&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_qexBhCoARIsAFgBlev5eDp6cu7uRmoZg5GSXLuia3G_VX0aYDpXQprZOMP5hBfnp2zbbB0aAswXEALw_wcB
you can also grab a thick cutting board (in Canada, SuperStore has what they call a "Commercial" cutting board, which is just as thick
I don't know why everyone makes the F&F jig so complicated. I have ben using the F&F jig for well over 10 years and all it is is two bits of MDF with runners and some sand paper faces made in about 20 minutes, no measuring is needed as that should be done using the rip fence as a measured bump stop.
@@duster8100 I like it for the small hobby stuff I’ve been doing lately, which keeps everything on the slider side, but you’re totally right! Thx for the comment✌🏻
F&F jigs do not need tracks and flip stops or even measuring tapes. Use the rip fence to measure the cut off to the needed dimension and simplify the build to two bits of wood and a handle if you need one but in 12 years of using an F&F jig I have never had a handle. The flip stop thing comes from using cabinet saws and if you go back to the original video they used a handle but it is not necessary. I am sure the craze for having flip stops etc comes from cabinet saw users who have changed to a slider.
For the small stuff I’ve been cutting lately I prefer having the bulk of the piece on the slider and the cutoff on the rip fence side of the slider. I should be using the crosscut fence for my measurements, but my scales are Imperial and I’ve been slow to call Felder to get a metric replacement. 😄. Thanks for commenting!👍🏻
The stops on the F&F are incredibly useful, and allow me to do things I could not do with the fence, with much smaller pieces as well.
I would have watched more- but the music is awful...
Thanks for trying! All feedback appreciated