Optimizing Small Room Acoustics
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2019
- Audioholics GoFundMe: bit.ly/GOFUNDAUDIOHOLICS
We discuss small room acoustics and how to best treat them acoustically with passive treatments or natural room object to ensure great sound for 2CH and multi-CH applications. We talk about the best treatment practices for dealing with side wall reflections, floor and ceiling, as well as the listening area. If you're wondering how to get the best bass in your home theater room, you'll want to listen to this discussion. Before spending thousands more on the latest AV equipment, get your room to sound right first. Watch this video!
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These videos are not too long Gene. Audioholics is a science based source for home audio not a cat video. The longer the better with well informed people like you and Matt and James doing the teaching. I've watched Matt's REW training videos as well on AV Nirvana in the past. That guy knows his stuff. Keep up the good work.
Having Matt there is awesome, is a rare opportunity to listen someone with experience on the field, hopefully it will be a nice quorum to learn about acoustics.... Cheers!
Definitely DEFINITELY more room acoustics videos. This was great.
Also how to stop mechanical room noise. How to seal the doors and so on.
Love it. Thanks Gene and Matt. Here's one of several quotes I wrote down: "A speaker that has controlled dispersion does basically the same thing you'd expect an acoustic panel to do, but it does a better job. And it allows you to get away with no panels on the wall." BRILLIANT!!
I moved my system to the long wall and put in a bunch of 2" rockwool treatments behind my fronts and acoustic room dividers along the side walls coming about 10' from the front walls. Finally put thick shag carpet in across the width of the room between the fronts and main listening position. It's made a huge positive difference in the sound. It could look a lot better though. Luckily I only have to please myself...I would love to see more discussion of this topic. Thank you Mr. Poes!
First the ported vs sealed sub and now on acoustics. Matt's insight has been very really refreshing. Would love more such insights from Matt on acoustics.
Matt is always awesome to hear from! I’m treating my small listening room right now and his advice has been invaluable.
Yes please, more videos on acoustics and treatments! I'd imagine for most of us these collaborations are a prime source of information on this topic. Thank you Gene and Matt for all that you do!
Good stuff Matt & Gene, keep it coming and thanks so much!
I've noticed a lot of questions in the original live feed related to what I think was soundproofing related rather than acoustic treatment. First, 5/8" drywall has substantially higher sound transmission loss than 1/2" drywall, but acoustically there is a small difference. It's quite a bit stiffer, so it can cause increased strength in the modes. Decoupling the drywall can reduce that problem.
Now, are people also interested in a video on soundproofing and sound isolation? That is a very different topic, but I'd be happy to talk about it.
Yes that too would be very helpful Matthew. I am about to start work on building a dedicated theater room and this is one thing i am interested in knowing more about. Thinking about doing a staggered stud build. And also more about the acoustic treatment types and placement.
Yes. I finally have a man cave but it's made of bricks wall with cathedral wood style ceiling. I can hear my neighbors talking and dogs barking so clearly. Any suggestion would be appreciated ☺️
Yes, that would be great. Please include information for us people with smaller UK size rooms, eg 15'x10'.
@@guppy9713 good point. I dont think many people realize rooms in other countries vary from what a small us home is. Principle still apply Id think
Yes a soundoroofing video would be great. Like my theater is upstairs ground floor. It has two windows at one of its corners. Also my neighbors driveway is on that front wall. I like them and there blind so Id be interested in a soundproofing vid and options for walls that have things like windows and such. Ive bern looking at double drywalling the wall part with greenglue between as a option. There is also soundproof drywall from a few companies which I think is drywall with the greenglue already added but it costs like 6 timed a regular drywall sheet. I would like to stop ad much of the ht noise from reaching my neighbors and the livingroom right next to the theater. I look at some of these soundproofing web sites and they are selling solid doors for above 2500! There's got to br some reasonable priced solutions for those who wish to keep there home theater sound in it.
Great topic guys. I like how you give us the theory and details but then give practical rules of thumb that we can apply. Looking forward to the next video.
This is just what I needed, thanks for sharing. Love watching your channel, it's informative, fun and not pretentious.
Brilliant Video Gents!!!! Keep the acoustics coming. This is so needed!!!
Gene, you've done it my friend. Excellent video!
Yessssss! Please, more videos about Acoustics treatment! Thank you both 😉🤗☺️
Thank you for this. I would definitely be interested in more videos on this topic.
Superb video. Lot´s of useful information and real life experience, thank you both!
This was awesome, very informative. Thanks Gene and Matt.
It's a lot more popular than I anticipated! I'm glad people liked it.
@@PoesAcoustics Matt I know treating 100% of the front wall is recommended for home theater use but how does it affect your 2 channel listening if you even do any more 2 channel with the Auromatic upmixer becoming more popular? I have to sit against my back wall in my setup so the advice for treatment was a help in that respect. Should I just build a rock wool or fiberglass absorber and leave the cloth off of it or is going with someone like GIK Acoustics along with their support a better option? I have 2 closet doors on either side so I'd probably only be able to add a single panel directly behind my head. TIA.
One of your best/most interesting videos!
This topic is so important .. please make more!
Huge thanks to Matthew for his informative contributions in the comments!
I was getting ready to start installing Acoustic panels. Now I'll wait thanks to this (and future videos)
Good topic Gene and Matt it really teaches you when you deal with bright sounding rooms .
More of these videos!!! It’d be great to talk about 2 channel and the appropriate way to set this up. Please more!
This was awesome, please do more.
Great video, one of the most practical. More please, expand on the details.
Love you new content! Please keep up these videos going! Thank you
Good video! Keep the acoustic videos coming please!
Thanks guys very educational. I’d like some more topics on this.
Guys, you asked for some feedbacks... Me and some friends are elaborating our home theatres together now since approx. 2 years and we end up now to exactly the topics discussed in this video... This was (at the right moment in time ) for sure the most helpful video i watched on youtube so far! Congratulations!
Big thanks for sharing your amazing knowledge, gentlemen.
I hung 34 blackout drapery panels around my 14.5' W x 19' L room. Very minimal reflections. I have a 7.2.4 system. Yamaha RX-Z11 receiver. One sub & one transducer in my seating platform riser.
Yes, more more more on acoustics! Most people have no idea just how much a WELL treated room can improve your sound. You'll get much larger gaines from treating a room then you'll ever get from changing out electronics(within reason). I many cases even larger then changing out speakers.
I've treated my ceiling also, it's well worth it if possible.
Not according to this video! They're both basically saying don't bother with any acoustic absorption on a small room because the reverb time is already small. Thus conflicts with pretty much everybody else who say you need more bass absorption to tame a small room! Confusing or what? ☹️
Great video. Acoustic Treatment is very under rated. More videos very much welcome.
I’m in UK, just converted a 4x4m room in my house to a dedicated 5.1.2 Atmos home cinema room on a budget. Have used 4” absorption on most of ceiling, multiple side wall panels, carpeted floor and rear defusion.
My 18year old Kef egg speakers have never sounded so good, the clarity is something else.
An acoustically treated room allows you to have a $1k audio setup sound like something that is many times that.
Peter does it feel like you’re in space when you clap?
That for a lack of a better word sounds amazing!
Clap Ecco is pretty non existent in most places of the room.
The 2.4m wall of Quadratic Defusers on rear wall at head level when seated to make the room feel larger than it is was a great addition.
Your setup is not $1K if you have spent all that money treating the room.
Brent Povey I spent around $350 on mine and did it all myself, it is not expensive if you make panels yourself. Each panel cost me $30, 4” acoustic wool, mdf wood for frame and coloured hessian material to cover front and sides.
Acoustic treatment does NOT have to be expensive. It’s a very cheap audio improvement technique that most people don’t do and would rather get way more expensive speakers. If you room isn’t treated you will never get the benefit those speakers could give you.
ineed more of this, do the series. thank you
Always find these videos a good watch 👍
Found the comment at the end interesting about NOT having an infinitely rigid room, the reason being I was trying to decide between a wood frame / drywall outhouse theatre build vs solid brick and drywall interior, I’d originally decided the more solid construction was better but I may rethink that now.
I'm a couple months late, but if you do have follow up acoustic videos it would be great to see examples of the type of treatments you are referring to, even examples of them installed. I really appreciated how Matt broke down which type of treatments are good for where and why. Thanks!
Good room treatment plus a good DSP is a killer combo
Love this video, it has been really informative! I am now going to try to rotate my living room and see if that improves my current 2.1 setup.
If that means having your mains more spread out on the longest wall you should be very happy with the results.
This really is great information guys especially as a home theatre designer
These videos are awesome. Also the ones with Anthony Grimani. The multi-sub approach becomes extra compelling when you can get smaller, more affordable subs like the PreSonus Temblor T10
You guys are awsome. I learn so much with you.
Video topics I’d be interested in:
Does speaker size matter in a small room?
What problems are there with surround sound in a small room and how/if they can be solved.
Size will not matter in a small room (quality of the speaker will). See how much space you have for the number of speakers you want (2.1 vs 5.1 vs 7.1). Figure our your budget and where you would place them (before buying). How many bare walls do you have (this is bad for reflections), how much furniture? (more stuff the better for absorption). Problems come up when you have bare walls and floors, if you clap and hear and echo, there is your first red flag.
Great video, I have a very small bedroom I’m turning into a entertainment room with 7.1 and 5 height channels. It’s open for half the room on the back right and has a closet along the left. So far I’ve put a foam mattress behind my listening spot, and covered the walls in sweatshirts. This actually made a large improvement in placing objects in the mix. If I go all out with it, my plan was to put theater curtain on both sides but keep it lower on the right to let the room breathe. I think deflection with some heavy bass abortion for the back wall, mostly absorption for the front wall behind my desk and deflection on the walls at the first reflection points for the front l r. I use mirage Omni speakers and I think this should help disperse and sustain their sound while damping the room resonance. Multi sub dsp to create best bass response balance and that’s all that can be done. I need a really good but light bass solution for the ceiling though 🤔
Very informative video, would also be interested in sound proofing also. Thanks.
Some really good information. Thank you.
Cool guys I'm really glad you did this acoustics special, I love acoustics! :D I'd like to see a video exploring how speakers measure when the speaker or listening position changes. Particular exploring boundary pressures and bass reinforcement along walls. Measuring what being up against a wall will do to bass extension. For example, if you put your speakers against the front wall while you also sit against the back wall, will your measured response roll off lower, will the roll-off slope be changed, or just shifted in volume? Could you use these boundary pressures to affectively get more range out of your speakers? Then getting into the specifics of the undesirable affects. Is there distortion in measurable terms from being against a wall, are they detriments a receiver's built in room correction software could fix, leaving you with more bass extension than before, and no adverse affects? Is it just a bass volume boost? What's it do?
wow you guys are interesting and know your stuff-i like your inexpensive and fun ways to check the room acoustics
Great subject would love to learn a lot more about that.
Would love more videos about how to use a Mini DSP for multi subs. Thanks. excellent video
That Tribble microphone is a nice Star Trek touch 😉
I've got Sonus Faber Olympica 3s on the long wall of a short room with a Rel s510 subwoofer in a corner all 8ft from my listening position --a leather couch against a wall. No room treatment and the sound stage and clarity is fantastic. I can hear all the instuments seperate and clean. No distortion at any volume. I tried dirac and it reduced the quality. I listen at 192khz using Qobuz streaming. Great quality equipment well placed can beat all the room rules.
Love this! Need more videos like this
Both you guys are great!! more more!!
Matt is so interesting in these videos. Great work guys.
Great video - really helpful.
Gene you are freaking JACKED bro. love the channel.
Where's Hugo at these days?
@@GothamsFinest2010 Gene needed the protien, so he ate Hugo! Just a rumor, but it could be true :p
Thanks guys for the awesome video, great balance between the theory and practical stuff. Can I follow up with a question...I am about to buy some quality standmounted bookshelf speakers for my (very) small listening room. Would you advise rear or front ported speakers given that I have a placement constraint of max. 50cm from back and side walls? Many thanks.
I’d like you guys to setup a room together with some affordable speakers Maybe something from RBH. With treatment and some bass management perhaps from Minidsp.
A real tutorial. Spread the knowledge.
Holy crap, Matt's new camera looks AMAZING compared to the old one.
I think we need to invent binuaral head mics for audio measurements, with acoustic processing programmed in.
Great channel btw - I've been a fan of you guys for almost 20 years - you guys are great but I think you might be dissuading people from a really good DIY setup - I've done many rooms - a smaller Family Room, a bigger Family Room, a big Master Bedroom, my kid's rooms and a 'hang out room with really high ceilings' - ALL with ceiling speakers - some 5.1 - some are 7.1 - some are 7.2 - all with Yamaha YPAO and Triad Subwoofers and Polk ceiling speakers that you can aim at you ( or not at you if you prefer ) - let's just say it's better than anything I've heard in my neighborhood from the pro's that did my friend's homes - when some special effect occurs and those of us watching are disturbed because they believe someone's kicking in our front door down the hallway - I think it's adequate . Considering how 'live' most rooms are now with hardwood floors - I 'believe' you are doing people a real disservice by saying ceiling speakers can't take care of you - I think they're way better - no point source 10 feet from your ear on the side wall . I'm a Harbeth guy so you'll have to work hard to change my mind ; P. Let me repeat so people don't miss out - you think your A/V wall or floor mounted transducers are going to 'disappear' when they are 8-10 feet ( or less ) from your right or left ear like a Harbeth or Spendor can ?
More of this, please! Well done! Just wondering, which speaker manufacturer publishs reliable directivity information / measurement? I guess you can't measure this on your own w/o an anechoic room, can you?
This was great. I like the sound of my speakers but have no acoustic treatment. Watched the first half hour of this and I'm now fairly certain I don't need any! E.g., I have no panel, or anything, on the back wall - from this video that's optimal! I don't have symmetry - try and simulate it by balancing objects in the room - probably is fairly balanced already. So me liking the sound of my speakers is explained - my room is OK! No treatment needed. Much $$$ saved, no more angst,...
Resonance points at lower frequencies are fewer and further apart (HZ) than at high frequencies . (like big vs little ripples rebounding from the shore in pond)
This cleared up some issues for me, please go deeper to help us understand this.
This is great . Six months or so ago i figured out that i didn't need more money in audio equipment. I have been playing around with acoustic treatment ever since. Diffraction on the back wall and absorption on the front. It's been driving me a little nuts. There's no one size fits all. When i got enough absorption for the low end the high end seems like it took to much? I'm getting on my own nerves moving panels around. Please more discussion on this!
My takeaway is to get your speaker placement nailed down, install whatever furniture, rugs, curtains, wall art, etc. you planned on having anyway, run your receiver's correction algorithm, and spend a good deal of time listening. Only then should you start considering acoustic room treatments, because maybe none will be required.
Ebutech 3276 recomendation is fantastic for domestic rooms. Thanks for the video
Love these science-based tips!
Nice video Gene and Matt, awesome job! Quick question, I have a 7 by 6 meters room (distance between front wall and back wall is 6 meters) with left, center and right speakers with no subs, my seating position is my head is about 1 meter away from the back wall, but I don't get any bass at this seating position. If I move 1 meter closer to my speaker, I hear bass (exactly how I like it). To solve this problem without moving my seating position, should I get 2 subs and place them in the middle of the each 2 side walls?? Or do I need some room acoustic treatment like bass trap for the corners or some sort to solve this issue? Thank you so much in advance!
i got the same problem in my house, living room is weirdly shaped and open to kitchen, i hate those for any use, basically making the living room unusable for music or just being there. i had to live in the only normal room in the house i could find.
i cant remember this was a problem when i was young.
and i really like heavily absorbed rooms, cant have enough of it, it do negatively affect some acoustic music. but for everything else its the best thing ever.
Thanks for this guys :-)
A video on how to manually adjust parametric EQ on a AVR would be helpful. I doubt anyone knows what they are trying to do (except make it sound better) and how to do it.
We should get a video of Matt's home theater :)
Thank you 😮
Please do more videos.on this topic
This is a great video and I love mixing the science with practical discussion and recommendations. So now a few questions... What is the ideal, or ideal range, for small room slap echo? This then begs the question how can we measure for it? and then treat for it.
Slap echo can be measured but I don't have a way for you to quantify it. Most people look at RT60 time instead. As I mentioned, the theory behind RT60 is invalid in a small room, but the measurement of decay in a room is accurate. You can use Room EQ Wizard to do this. Just ignore all the fluff on using waterfalls, those are a waste of time in my opinion. Stick to RT60 and wavelets as a better alternative to the waterfall.
As for acceptable range, as noted before, its about what is comfortable for you. We will need to go into this more later, but the problem is, eliminating slap echo totally may not sound any different than allowing for some of it, but eliminating it totally may make the room too dry.
As for what I target, I prefer to target a flat and even decay rate from 100hz to 5khz and I prefer to see a gradual and minimal rise in the decay down to 20hz. RT60 won't be as accurate down past 100hz with REW, so I switch to wavelets. The wavelet will make a hickey stick shape, which is ok. The broadening at the base is fine. You want to see that it still remains linear and that the broadening is minimal.
I also look at bandwidth limited impulse responses. So you do a 1/3 octave at 250 hz and what you look for is that it should have roughly an egg shape. After the egg, an anechoic room will have nothing. A reverberant room that is treated well will have a gap or space with nothing, but there will be obviously smaller eggs which are the reflections. What you don't want is an irregular egg with a long irregular tail. That implies modal interference and strong reflections.
I bought the Audyssey app to limit my 3500's XT32 to 300hz for all speakers, but was really surprised to find that I like XT32 running full tilt boogie on all my speakers much better.... XT32 vs XT is a night and day difference when running it to 20k.
Some people like that. I really think people should do what they like over all else. There are technical problems with the approach, but it doesn't mean you shouldn't do it. If you like it, do it.
The technical problems may not be problems either, depending on the room and speakers.
Yep, and the way it calibrates bass is incredible.
Yes. I like these videos.
Also a great thing about 80's houses they have popcorn ceilings leave the popcorn!
Everyone should have a chance to go in an anechoic chamber. I used to do electronics product testing in anechoic chambers to measure the products radiated emissions. It is almost uncomfortably quiet. I think a person could go insane if they were locked in there long enough.
Atypical question for Matt --
Suppose one has a home theater with the reverse issue you cite in this video; that is, one where all of the walls have hung treatments by necessity i.e. to prevent light reflections bouncing back onto the screen?
In my case, I have Fidelio black velvet on all surfaces surrounding the entire theater (24 x 12 x 8) including on the ceiling.
It would seem that under that circumstance, one would need to find a way to liven up the space, and if so, what recommendations would you suggest?
Another video please!!!!
Best video on room acoustics.. saved me plenty of bucks.. no wonder the acoustic companies don't like this kind of videos.. but great fr consumers..
Hello; If you are building a rectangular freestanding room ie. new construction in my Barn as a home theater would I be better of using acoustical tiles (2x4 panels) attached to stringers with Rockwool insulation in-between the ceiling joists rather than two layers of 5/8 sheetrock? would that act as a better absorber ( semi Bass trap) in a 15x24x 9.25-dimensional room?
Your videos are really great source of info, Gene and Matt, so thank you very much. What are your thoughts with adding a minidsp into the mix with the multi-subs with and without the right amount of bass trapping?
Alain my main gripe with the Minidsp is that it adds delay. If your main speakers don’t also go through it, that delay is group delay. If you don’t have a way to compensate for that group delay, it can become audibly significant.
If you do run your speakers through it, it can audibly compromise fidelity. The few I’ve used added noticeable hiss. I wasn’t a fan of that.
However, without that kind of DSP control, multisub can be tricky. The individual subs may need individual delay, phase, and crossovers. Most HT processors can’t handle that. For many people it’s a good option, they just need to be sure to compensate for the delay.
@@PoesAcoustics Man, they're MiniDSP 2x4 HD nuts over on the AVS subwoofer threads for BEQ. It's like 300 dollars with the wifi dongle they recommend to quickly upload the profiles. That's not cheap. I keep going back and forth whether to get one or not. I have Audyssey XT32 with he MultEQ mobile app already so I'm in no rush to add more DSP.
Thomas Hoctor do you have your own measurement capabilities?
If so, i would take measurements of your system at a set of key locations around your listening position. If you have a good flat response in the bass and it sounds good, you don’t need the Minidsp. It’s just a tool, if you don’t need that tool, done buy it.
@@PoesAcoustics Yes I do Matt. I have REW on my Acer laptop and a CSL Umik-1 I bought used from an AVSer a while back. I've also watched your 2 REW tutorial videos several times as well even though I had a good understanding of how REW worked before that from following Austin Jerry's FAQ those videos also helped immensely. The wavelet advice and RT60 just to mention 2 tips from those videos. I know a lot of MiniDSP users who EQ their setups to death using REW. I have the advantage of a smaller sealed rectangular space with equidistant dual subwoofer placement from the MLP. Unfortunately that MLP is smack up against a back wall and there's not really much I can do about that seating wise sadly. I only recently bought the MultEQ mobile app though so I haven't run it through my laptop using the Android BlueStacks emulator just yet. I still just correct full range through the receiver with Audyssey XT32.
Hi Matt, yes I'll still probably try out the minidsp later just because of the multisub configuration. I plan add more bass trapping first to try to flatten the bass response to an acceptable level then add the minidsp after.
Love the room acoustics topics... because of room acoustics, my Klipsch Reference system sounds better than my dads Def Tech system (He’s not happy about it)
How do you figure best sub placement in a large open concept basement with stairs splitting up the basement in two sections? Where do you place sound absobtion panels ceiling and walls?
In a 40 foot wide basement, with a 12*12 area home theatre in the middle of the open 40 feet, would you consider adding a floating sound absobtion pannel?
My basement home theater has open joists above instead of acoustic drop ceiling, should I consider this? Room is 12’ x25’. I am running my mains as small and have 2 SVS subs, have a big null in center of room, lifted one of my subs 20” off floor, sounds the best so far, but still have that null, just not as bad.
I have a rather low acoustic ceiling. 7ft would i do better to remove the ceiling tiles and use owens 703 in between the rafters? My room is 22.5 ft x13 but the ceiling is not helping my cause. i use two svc subs and a set of ar90's and i still can't get the bass i want. Would i do better with 4 subs? It is in the basement,i do have treatment several acoustic panels and a few diffusers but i'm not where i want to be. Thanks Ken
What if I have a relatively large shared space room (around 6x9) with the listening are being about the front right quarter of the room, will treating most of the ceiling at the listening area only (say thick 4x60x120 panels to create a 120x240 panel, hanging with air gap) make any difference? I get a large number of what seems to be nasty room modes 70-120Hz which seem to (also) include a floor-ceiling aspect, and was wondering if that can help or if it's a too small portion of the ceiling to make any real difference?
How effective are multi subs if the positioning for those subs is limited? Especially when the worst room modes (for me 20Hz peak, 24Hz null, 27Hz peak) seem to be shared between most possible subwoofer positions?
Bonjour ,
Dommage que ce ne soit pas sous titré !!! Ça a l'air très intéressent !!!
Je vais regarder les commentaires pour en comprendre plus ! ...
Merci quand même de ces bons tutos 👍
Count me in Gene & thanks Matt.
If the situation was you living in a small apartment (11x12x9ft, bottom floor and concrete underneath) and you wanted to soundproof the ceiling to stop neighbours hearing most of the sound, would that have a massive adverse effect on the sound?
Edit. Just saw matt did say a bit on ceiling proofing but would a totally dead ceiling be to much?
I have an open plan room, for speaker placement ….. is it better to have the speakers placed with openings both sides, or better to have walls off to the sides? Reflecting walls or open ‘absorbing’ space? Please let me know
What are your thoughts on 18ft cathedral ceilings?
I have same type shape livingroom as you Gene, left speaker is 3ft from wall, right speaker reflection is about 14ft or more plus 9' ft ceilings. How do I start treatment ? I hear echo, voices sound tall longer in sound to me.
I was thinking about Matt's idea with curtains in back of system on the big wall. Just wasn't sure if it would look good...
2nd question, why I ask is Matt mentioned it, I have Klipsch RP 280's iv'e heard because of horns i dont toe in but straight into the room. I believe i have a bigger sweet spot.
Rudy Rutan the best option is probably to seek consultation from experts. Complex rooms are hard to treat without really digging into the details of the room. I gave away my free knowledge in the video and will do so in more videos. For targeted advice I would have to charge.
We don't just need to go "deep" on this subject... We need to go BALLS DEEP on it.... Love this stuff... Keep it coming guys... 👌👏👏👏
wow lol that is deep
6:43 since you’ve basically killed any meaning of the term “small room” can you make a video discussing “tiny rooms” so that can address the challenges of a room like my 11x15 living/theater room?
I have a dilemma. In my 5.1 home theatre system the center speaker is a Dynavoice Challenger c-5 mk1, and I recently noticed that out of the two 5.25inch woofers one sounds louder than the other (even tried swapping them, same problem). Why is this happening? The speaker receives the a mono signal from the AV receiver (LFE) so there is no problem with the balance. Or maybe the passive crossover in the speaker is faulty somehow. Please, what should I do?
I live in a super small house and have my bookshelf speakers sitting on foam pads on top of a console along with my turntable and receiver. Is this set-up appropriate? Should I be concern with vibration interference or any other issues?