Looking good bud. Just take your time on it make sure it's done right like you have been, and dont worry bout how long its taking you. Been waiting for the next video on this build. Gonna come out bad ass
Man I can’t get enough of this channel. You are my all time favorite! I can’t wait to see this thing together and making passes. I’m in souther SC, gotta come up and see you race this season
Welds are getting better. Do you drill a hole in any of the tubes? That helps when fully welding the tube. I have found less porosity in the weld. From hot gasses escaping from the tube being welded. Especially of short sections of tube. Keep up the good work.
Looking good John. Not telling you what to do, just a couple of suggestions. Glad you tied the cage to the back bars at the end of the video, but i would have went lower and came off the the middle where the spine bar is. Cage is stronger there. I would just lower the front, back is fine, let them angle up. I would also complete those bars in the middle. That would be a complete tub bar. Lastly, right at the base of the "x" bar, where it attaches to the frame, the frame has a bend. At that bend, go straight up on both sides to the bottom of the cage bar. You have a support forward and back, but that bend WILL kink in a bad situation. Always support at the bends.. Other than that, I agree with the wishbone.
This is my first one, honestly probably the last.....lol.... very hard work. This vid today was two days, first day 4 hours, second day 9 hours. I need to fire my boss too, he never lets me take a break....lol.....so tired today
Getting better! Hardest thing starting off is torch angle and positioning your hand to keep it steady. You seem to be figuring it out pretty quick! Good job doing it yourself
Thanks again for the awesome videos. Watching these have made me believe that I too could do something similar. Your can do attitude is inspiring. Looking forward to future videos.
make a nice heavy spot to add those barbell weights secure and safe...and maybe plan it little to one side or the other if you think weight to one side might be better. I think a diagonal top double frame rail might be real strong.
Idk if you have said what your gonna do with your motor but a got a ls3 thats completely filled and 1/2 head studs its ready for some good rods and pistons with a 4" crank with some decent heads and you can party in stock block classes
That really is the hardest part now, I had to charge the camera when I was on my back on the creeper welding under the back bars....wow...hurting today, lol
Welds look good enough that I'm ready to throw you money to install a cage in my pickup. :) Lookin' good and looking forward to see it at our local events this year so I can see it in person. 👍
It is looking damn good for a first timer. I have seen so called fab shops with all this experience not look as good.. The welds are coming along nice. What pipe notcher are you using?
@@TurboJohnRacing wow 2,600/2,700 pounds that's gonna be some hot rod. I hope you win a lot of races. Thanks for the video's and thanks for responding that means a lot to the fans...God bless you and your family.
Don't know what you are keeping of the front of the car but suggest having a pretty close idea where you are putting that front trans bar before you run the frame connectors from the back of the car forward. It may end up some bars want to occupy the same space, undoing work you just did is no fun and that is where feet/pedals need to go so room is at a premium. Make it as comfortable for the driver as possible.
Yes, we are gonna lay it all out. I'm moving the seat all the way to the cage, and plan on moving the steering wheel and pedals forward so I hope I can get the bars close to the firewall
Chassis flex robs power and negatively affects how the car plants the tires (and corners if that is what the car is used for). As Tre Fink commented the trade off is you don’t want so many bars that it weighs 4000 lbs.
John, food for thought. I’ve seen a video where Tim McAmis said a single frame rail cars was better suited for rougher, marginal tracks than a double frame rail. I don’t know if you’re still going to no prep this car this car but a double frame rail may not be worth the work. Your fab skills are way better than you give yourself credit. Keep up the good work.
@@TurboJohnRacing thanks, I was thinking of buying a pre fab cage for my f body it comes mild steel tho... I don’t know much about welding but I noticed you did a lot of TIG welding
I'm getting better at tig welding and notching, hope by the end I will be pretty proficient at it. I have some small welding projects I want to do later and the welds need to be great
John im gonna give you my number and if anyone has a bad word about your welding or the strength of your chassis let them have my number and i will personally put at least one if not both of there eyes completely out , you my friend are killin it right now. the only thing i would do different is sand the bars down before you weld them in its just easier when its time to prep or paint ,
One thing I was warned against by some very knowledgeable guys is absolutely DO NOT put a double frame rail in a car you plan on street/no prep racing.. We talked about doing one in my car and after discussing it with people smarter than me, we’re not going to do it.
Turbo John it made the chassis too stiff.. the chassis needs some sort of flex in it for the bad surfaces. I was told unless you are radial racing on killer surfaces, don’t do it. This came from the Plan B corvette camp.. the car was killer on no prep and street racing but they struggled getting the number they wanted on radials. Added the double frame rail to it and it picked up on the smooth tracks but was not able to work as well on street/no prep after that. They regretted doing it
I have never heard of a chassis bring “too stiff”. Handling numbs and holes is what the suspension is designed to handle. Wondering if their issue was the wrong springs and/or shocks?
Looking good bud. Just take your time on it make sure it's done right like you have been, and dont worry bout how long its taking you. Been waiting for the next video on this build. Gonna come out bad ass
Agree with Mr Wells, she’s gonna deserve a bad a$$ motor! Looks solid as a rock
Man I can’t get enough of this channel. You are my all time favorite! I can’t wait to see this thing together and making passes. I’m in souther SC, gotta come up and see you race this season
Welds are getting better. Do you drill a hole in any of the tubes? That helps when fully welding the tube. I have found less porosity in the weld. From hot gasses escaping from the tube being welded. Especially of short sections of tube. Keep up the good work.
Looks really nice for a home build. You are now a fabricator and should be considered a fabricator,two thumbs up for john!!!
I wish!
Nice work John
real nice john looks good
Coming along great. Well done!
thanks
nice Progress TJ
As good as this car is going to be your going to have to build a badass engine for it John.
gonna have to put it back together the way it was
So the block and crank are repairable?
Before you paint it you should put all your body mounts on
Damn John she’s looking good.
Lookin good bro. Personally I like the wishbone to the back bar.
Looking good John. Not telling you what to do, just a couple of suggestions. Glad you tied the cage to the back bars at the end of the video, but i would have went lower and came off the the middle where the spine bar is. Cage is stronger there. I would just lower the front, back is fine, let them angle up. I would also complete those bars in the middle. That would be a complete tub bar. Lastly, right at the base of the "x" bar, where it attaches to the frame, the frame has a bend. At that bend, go straight up on both sides to the bottom of the cage bar. You have a support forward and back, but that bend WILL kink in a bad situation. Always support at the bends.. Other than that, I agree with the wishbone.
Thanks for the tips
@@TurboJohnRacing Just tryin' to share some experience... 🤘
Car looks awesome good video can’t wait to see it when it’s finish
You and me both!
Very nice John I don't know how many tube cars you have built but you should be very proud of the job your doing this time.
This is my first one, honestly probably the last.....lol.... very hard work. This vid today was two days, first day 4 hours, second day 9 hours. I need to fire my boss too, he never lets me take a break....lol.....so tired today
Getting better! Hardest thing starting off is torch angle and positioning your hand to keep it steady. You seem to be figuring it out pretty quick! Good job doing it yourself
Thanks
Wow, Amazing work John.
Many thanks!
I like that shirt your wearin!!! That is a badass foxbody!!!
Thanks again for the awesome videos. Watching these have made me believe that I too could do something similar. Your can do attitude is inspiring. Looking forward to future videos.
You can do it! Thanks a ton
Your welds look good quit being so critical they are great ...love the cage set up.keep up the awesome work brother ..
Thanks man
What about your parachute mount in the rear since your putting the bars in now..
Looking good. You are keepin after it. Jealous of your shop space.
Luckily, Bryan lets me use a corner of his shop so I can work on it. He has a big shop for sure.
Looks good keep up with the video’s
grate job mate loving the content
make a nice heavy spot to add those barbell weights secure and safe...and maybe plan it little to one side or the other if you think weight to one side might be better. I think a diagonal top double frame rail might be real strong.
Looking very good keep up the good job!
Idk if you have said what your gonna do with your motor but a got a ls3 thats completely filled and 1/2 head studs its ready for some good rods and pistons with a 4" crank with some decent heads and you can party in stock block classes
I should hear back from my machine shop tomorrow
Great job ready for mine
You can do it! I'm gonna have to pass, it is way more work than I thought
Lookin great John! Car and your welds! 👌🏾
Thanks 👍
Looks really nice but don’t forget the two uprights that create the driveshaft loop.
I have a weld in loop I'm gonna put in once the motor is in
Turbo John can’t wait to see it on the track
Not bad for out of position and overhead. Looking good 💪🏻👍🏻
That really is the hardest part now, I had to charge the camera when I was on my back on the creeper welding under the back bars....wow...hurting today, lol
Welds look good enough that I'm ready to throw you money to install a cage in my pickup. :)
Lookin' good and looking forward to see it at our local events this year so I can see it in person. 👍
Can't wait!
Looking good John keep it up!!!
Thanks, will do!
Looks killer John!!
Thanks man, see you soon
Looking awesome tj!!!
Awe sugar , ran those chickens off I see..... The tin is gonna be some fun the way you did those rails at the front....
lol, was thinking about just doing it like a truck, lol.....one sheet of aluminum on the cage........
@@TurboJohnRacing hahaha. How'd i know that was coming
Hey uh. Does that 2v romeo head yall used as a floor weight have a match, and are they good pairs?
hey john what is goin to happen whit the other Mustang ?? is for sale???
Love your vids TJ. You are a talented Man... Keep bringing it brother , you are a bad man !!!
I appreciate that!
Amazing work!
Thanks a lot!
How much would it cost to do a full chassis / roll cage on a 1986 S10?!
It is looking damn good for a first timer. I have seen so called fab shops with all this experience not look as good.. The welds are coming along nice. What pipe notcher are you using?
it's one of the allstar's
Man she's looking good. What are you going to name it?
Hopefully you have before and after weight measurements and you will share them with us
I'll share final weight for sure
It would be cool to see the weight of the new car vs the OG.
Looking good 💪
Pro Mod- ish thumbnail
John Doc has entered the chat
lol
How much do you expect your new race car to weigh ?
2600-2700 with me
@@TurboJohnRacing wow 2,600/2,700 pounds that's gonna be some hot rod. I hope you win a lot of races. Thanks for the video's and thanks for responding that means a lot to the fans...God bless you and your family.
Don't know what you are keeping of the front of the car but suggest having a pretty close idea where you are putting that front trans bar before you run the frame connectors from the back of the car forward. It may end up some bars want to occupy the same space, undoing work you just did is no fun and that is where feet/pedals need to go so room is at a premium. Make it as comfortable for the driver as possible.
Yes, we are gonna lay it all out. I'm moving the seat all the way to the cage, and plan on moving the steering wheel and pedals forward so I hope I can get the bars close to the firewall
I was sitting around in the house and seen this pop up. And I said to myself dang I guess I should probably go work on the back half of mine as well.
lol
Looking good
Thanks man, hope you are doing well!
Looks like Turbo John chassis shop.
Are you swapping your motor and transmission into the new car or building a new motor setup for the new car?
Yes, engine, trans, turbo kit, efi from old car
Looks great. I learned a lot..
How much for your old car?
I'm gonna hang on to it, in case this one doesn't do like I want it too.
Man look at my welding I mean it’s getting better 😂 I love humble people
Hi love the vids keep up the good work how fast you looking to go with it
4.50's at the local semi prepped tracks, but then do a bunch of no prep 4.80's
Keep up the good videos how much do you think it will weight.
I'm hoping 2600ish with me in it....I better stop adding bars
Thats my luck too. On shitty welds, my camera focuses PERFECTLY. Not so much on the nice ones lol
What size cup were you using on the tig welder
-12, was using a -10 clear but the -12 lets me stick out the electrode more when needed
how is the tail panel of the body held in place?
Couple tubes welded from chassis to body.
There is off road cars with less bars!!
You need to mount the body from the roof back.Light guage 1" will be more than enough.
Looks good, heck it has a tag it’s just another average North Carolina “street car”!
yes, lol
Is there such a thing as too stiff when it comes to the chassis... depending on what type of racing your doing?
You don't want your chassis to bend or flex causing bends, but you also don't want it 4000 lbs hah
I hope not, lol
Chassis flex robs power and negatively affects how the car plants the tires (and corners if that is what the car is used for). As Tre Fink commented the trade off is you don’t want so many bars that it weighs 4000 lbs.
So is the plan to go back to radial racing?
no, plan on doing mostly no prep and limited prep stuff. BUT, may throw in an occasional radial prep
Are you using mild steel ?
I believe the main cars are moly but he is using mild steel for the smaller tie in bars. Not sure why. Cost?
*main bars...
@@danmyers9372 What do you mean "main bars"
Driver compartment bars are all chomoly, most of the back half is moly as well. But there are some mild steel bars too.
@@TurboJohnRacing Thanks John. You know for a guy who dislikes fabricating you sure are good at it.
For not being a fabricator or an experienced tig welder hour a bar is not horrible. I know guys that say they are fabricators that cant do that.
That's crazy, I didn't know it was this slow of a process
John, food for thought. I’ve seen a video where Tim McAmis said a single frame rail cars was better suited for rougher, marginal tracks than a double frame rail. I don’t know if you’re still going to no prep this car this car but a double frame rail may not be worth the work. Your fab skills are way better than you give yourself credit. Keep up the good work.
Thanks man, you are the second person that has said that. I'm going to investigate some more
You need a welding cap
yes, and long sleeves.....
Triangle’s = strength
Are you using mild steel or chrome moly?
Both, cage is all molly. Most of the back half is moly, but some is mild steel
@@TurboJohnRacing thanks, I was thinking of buying a pre fab cage for my f body it comes mild steel tho... I don’t know much about welding but I noticed you did a lot of TIG welding
Just a ? It looks as there is nothing hold the upper down bars together for the very long span
Pro mod
yes
Ish...
John it would appear that you are definitely a fabricator sir
I'm getting better at tig welding and notching, hope by the end I will be pretty proficient at it. I have some small welding projects I want to do later and the welds need to be great
You can do my Blazer back half next...
Lol
I'm gonna have to pass, lol
Comment for the algorithm 👍
John im gonna give you my number and if anyone has a bad word about your welding or the strength of your chassis let them have my number and i will personally put at least one if not both of there eyes completely out , you my friend are killin it right now. the only thing i would do different is sand the bars down before you weld them in its just easier when its time to prep or paint ,
I should have done that, lol. I'm probably gonna hammertone it so hopefuly it will cover
One thing I was warned against by some very knowledgeable guys is absolutely DO NOT put a double frame rail in a car you plan on street/no prep racing.. We talked about doing one in my car and after discussing it with people smarter than me, we’re not going to do it.
Why, what was the reasoning?
Turbo John it made the chassis too stiff.. the chassis needs some sort of flex in it for the bad surfaces. I was told unless you are radial racing on killer surfaces, don’t do it.
This came from the Plan B corvette camp.. the car was killer on no prep and street racing but they struggled getting the number they wanted on radials. Added the double frame rail to it and it picked up on the smooth tracks but was not able to work as well on street/no prep after that. They regretted doing it
I have never heard of a chassis bring “too stiff”. Handling numbs and holes is what the suspension is designed to handle. Wondering if their issue was the wrong springs and/or shocks?
I thought you were trying to build a lighter car than COPPERCOAT stop adding bars Never seen a 3500 lbs. Pro-Mod Ha Ha! See you Wed.
lol, that's what I was thinking.....soon it's gonna be heavier than the one I got now.....hahahaha
Overall weight isn't as important as where the weight is...
@@vengeanceizmine9878You are right I agree 52 % for slick /57% for radial's my 2 cents
@@rodneybohanan8572 Definitely a good starting point.. every car is different. 👍
I made a tiktok of your car. tiktok is @jonathonowensby
Trans - mod
Man I think this is to much your over killing it is it heavyer than the original car now
Looking good
Thanks
Looking good