Another Video on Epoxy Primer -- I get more calls on this subject then anything else.. Thanks for watching! Please support My Friend Pete and Minnie by checking out the Merchandise Shelf above this comment and Buying SOME COOL STUFF!
Hey Pete, I got some stuff from a paint supply store that claimed to be a "hybrid 2 in 1" Epoxy Primer and High Build all in one....was 380 a gallon....I got hosed right...😂 Praying you hand / elbow tendon surgery goes well and you feel better after
I have learned most of what I know about painting from you Pete. I really appreciate DIY Auto School. I'm still learning but after a few cars I'm getting a lot better. You've always been clear about Epoxy sealer but I can see how other places would really confuse someone about the topic. I love all of your educational videos.
Epoxy primer, depending on the brand will not fully cure for 3-7 days. If your sanding before it fully cures it’ll gum up. When a true epoxy cures it’ll sand like stone. Epoxy primers have a working time you can finish prime or use body filler, or color coat without sanding. If you exceed that time you have to sand it and that will be difficult. Epoxy primer is a fantastic bare metal sealer, you just have to finish it before it fully cures.
Great information and spot on. Epoxy “primer” has excellent adhesion and sealing properties, but it does not sand well at all. Ideally, you shoot over it with your polyester “sanding” primer wet-on-wet. (After the epoxy has flashed off but while it is still just barely on the edge of tacky). So when should you ever sand epoxy primer? Epoxy primer *needs* to be sanded or scuffed before the next layer when you’ve gone outside of the open or full cure window generally around 24 to 48 hours for most products, as always look at your technical data sheets. You can save yourself a ton of work by being ready to put your polyester (or urethane) sanding primer on immediately after you epoxy prime/seal. However there are times when you need to wait days, weeks, or even more before moving to the next stage, so sometimes sanding or scuffing epoxy is necessary to remove the “rind” that develops and reduces next layer adhesion. AFAIK polyester doesn’t have this issue, but then again, polyester sanding primer doesn’t provide as much of a moisture barrier (it’s porous) and isn’t quite as good with adhesion.
Not to get into disagreements, everybody has their own take on materials, but the best way to start from bare metal up is epoxy prime itimmediately before any oxidation can start. Then you CAN do your filler work over that, scuff it if it has been longer than recomendation of manufaturer but usueal a few days is cool. Applying body filler direct to bare metal is fine if no oxydation has started but if you get a chip down to bare metal later it will rust and creep under the filler becasue the filler is pourous. The same reason Pete says he wont put polyester primer over bare metal. Polyester primer is basically sprayable polyester body filler. Start with epoxy primer, do body filler work, then polyester primer if needed or urethane primer, then to urethane sealer then paint or straight to paint depending on prep and if there is any sand throughs. Thats my opinion and the products data sheets will align with that. There are sandable hybid epoxies out there also that can be sanded. Not trying to be a know it all, but like the commercial,.....I know a few things ;)
Hey Pete. Another good video, and you are spot on as usual. Just a bit of information for anyone in the UK or Europe, I don't know what the situation is in the States. There is a coatings brand called HB Body, it is manufactured in Greece. I have used their products for years with good results. They make an epoxy primer which, according to their TDS can be thinned down quite a lot (40% rings a bell), this allows it to be used like a wet on wet non-sanding primer. You can apply it with a 1.3mm fluid tip and it goes on really smooth. It is ideal for those areas where you have rubbed through the original epoxy coating exposing bare metal. Just a very light scuff with 320 leaves it ready for accepting high build 2K primers.
Bob, That sounds like a DTM to me. Matrix sells a MP 200 here in America that does what you described above. I for one am not ready to completely trust this. But I am not disputing you. Maybe I am being overly cautious. lol Phillip Hall
As i work on a project it is moved in and out of the shop so i seal it with epoxy then body work over that. The humidity is low here so if i can keep it in the shop i would body work without sealing. There is no one way of doing things but a reason to do things certain ways at certain times. I also seal before base coat so i do not have to worry about burn throughs. With sufficient dry time there is no worry of dieback
Thanks so much for this video. I have a Falcon that got stalled for over 7 years that I used epoxy on 80% of the metal. I would like to get started on it again but still have some body work/high build to shoot on the car. Had no clue how to deal with the now 7 year old epoxy. You answered all of my questions.
If i repaint a car and rust is there i remove the rust and then epoxy primer even before bondo if i bondo over metal i epoxy prime over that then 2k sandable primer. Epoxy should gas out a few days then put 2k sandable primer over and don sand through then just paint over the sanded primer. easy as that.
Well explained thanks! One question, you mentioned can paint directly over Epoxy primer(sealer) but will that get good adhesion? Because sanding the epoxy is out of the question.
That's what it's used for. Basic two ways to apply. One way, after you have completed all your bodywork you use it as a sealer then topcoat before it cures as per TDS. Make sure you reduce it per TDS so that it lays slick and you reduce any chances of orange peel. Or two, If you are going bare metal and extensive bodywork you spay it as a sealer without the added reducer then do bodywork the areas that need filler etc. When you are done then 2k high build prime over it and block and guide coat to finish. Then top coat. Or before top coating, at that point if you are spraying reds, yellows or orange's you can tint and seal with with urethane primer that has been reduced per TDS to lay slick and immediately spray topcoat within tack period as per TDS. You do that to make surface uniform same color to reduce the amount of paint required to achieve coverage. Sealing also eliminates shrink back from body filler absorption. Otherwise you will see the filler in the final paintjob. It will look like dull areas in the paint......:)
👍 I see lots of people making this big mistake and using epoxy primer as a finish before paint.Only industrial epoxy primer works as prime but it's for stuctured steel.Great vids my Friend Pete!
First of all Pete, and Minnie i appreciate all the videos and all the knowledge you share! I enjoy your videos! Question is i am painting a 1964 chevy impala. It has been dustless blasted and has some remenents of the laquer paint. Can i safely cover with epoxy primer or do i need to remove the laquer paint completely? Thank you for any info .
I used to work for Ford 25 years ago. I worked in the insurance refinishing shop. In other words I took vehicles with bad paint from the factory and stripped them and repainted them. We would always etch primer then seal with PPG DP50 which is an epoxy SEALER,,we never called it primer. We never sanded the DP50, iit said on the can not the sand, use as a sealer only. After sealing we would the use PRIMER,,,PRIMER folks. We used PPG K36, which is an acrylic URETHANE PRIMER,,,we would sand it smooth and then reseal with DP50 agin then paint.....IT IS A SEALER not a primer.....
All this newer faster confusing stuff but with a one man show, you can't afford help even if you could find trustworthy people the new stuff is time saving and cost effective.
Great Explanation, following your site why'll i get my 2002 Chevy Tahoe Ready. I had to strip the the roof and the hood down to the metal.. I am just doing a raptor Liner job.
When sanding rust off of the bare metal, should I use a high grit sand paper to make the surface ultra smooth before applying epoxy primer or is that not necessary?
So I'm new to this but I've just finished sand blasting a trailer and I have actual real epoxy primer so are you saying I don't have to send it to put the pain on it.?
So if you have prepped bare metal shoot it with epoxy primer do you have to use 2k primer or can you go right to paint after the epoxy primer is sprayed also if you do body work can you epoxy over it and then paint or does 2k absolutely have to be used after epoxy primer
I just found you, and subscribed. I’ll be watching this video again, and looking at your other videos. I like the way you explain this topic. Thank you.
Sir i am currently sanding my 1981 chevy malibu to the metal because it has 5 layers of nasty material that has messed up two paint jobs because it was never sealed. My question is if there is any type of primer that i can spray over the bare metal maybe a high build and just sand and paint. I am not looking for a fancy paint job just something a step above primer. Im doing this in my storage room that small and hot and i want to just get this done with minimal steps. I need to prime each panel as i get done with it. I wouldn't mind sealing it as a last atep but firstly i need to prime the panels to protect against rust while i work panel per panel. I am not in very good shape or health but i am trying to do it myself at least get the sanding done so i can save some money. Then i will find a body man that can do body work prime where needed,seal and paint. Id appreciate any advise.
Hey Pete. Don't know if you'll ever see this comment but wanted to say I love your videos. I watch them pretty often but never catch your live streams. I work weird hours. Great content and for a guy working on his own like me...a source of inspiration.
I am going to glass bead my auto frame, I will be using a black epoxy primer. Then I will use a urethane black paint as my finish coat. So, I do not need to sand the epoxy primer before applying the urethane?
I only watch, listen & learn from my friend Pete. There's just too much miss information out there & Pete has been doing these videos (for our benefit) for well over a decade. He is Mr. Miyagi & you are Daniel San. Sand floor, paint fence, wax on wax off. Just do it !!!!
Hi Pete, your thoughts on dustless vacuum sanding systems, Mirka vacuum and sanding blocks or Pinky's Blox sanding blocks from the UK. thinking of dropping a small fortune on 1 of these systems and would like to know why you're not using any sort of dustless system these days. Will I be wasting my money, any thoughts appreciated cheers.
There's Epoxy Primer that's Takes time to dry like a 72hr window pried to paint over with no scuffing necessary. But if you try to paing after it's 72hr window then your going to have to sand down for adhesion purpose. But!!!!!! If you lay the epoxy down and try to sand it yah you can for get about that hands down...but it is more solid of a primer then any reduction Reducers. I had a House of colors Epoxy 2k primer that I put on and let it bake out under the sun for a week and it was ready to sand not the easiest first layer to go through. But one's your over the bridge it's easy breezy sanding from there on.... But like he sead it's different strokes for different folk's..👍📍
Epoxy primer / sealer is what is says it is. ideally, you’re supposed to use 2K primer first sand it get it really nice and then once you blow it off, you can spray a coat of epoxy primer to make a nice even surface once that dries then you can apply paint. The word primer just means it can be used before paint. Like a primer you put on your wall at home to cover a blemish or dark spot before putting on the topcoat of paint. This helps with adhesion and coverage
So I was told by a PPG rep that nothing will stick to the D P 90 that has been cured. Was told to scuff the D P re-coat, then 2 K before 24 hours do not sand in between
First of all I want to say I love your station. You're no BS guy and I like that. I'm working with a 63 Impala super sport that was my father's and restoring it I painted it once before in 1980 with pure lacquer. The lacquer is gone it's checked some rust. The car is very straight my question is do I strip it rough it up with 80 or 36 skim coat it with Bondo. Or strip it and coat it with epoxy and go from there. Cars in pretty good shape straight but I'd like to get it more straight. If you can please get back to me on this I appreciate it or I can exchange phone numbers and briefly talk to you I do need help on this matter. Thank you
Pete how's it goin..? I wanna paint my harley ironhead , peanut tank and fender to look like a gray bomber plane with face and teeth...how much to do it lol...or what would be steps to prime, seal and paint...just what would you recommend...thanks bud hope all is well. Also when I went to vocational school for collision repair we used acid etch primer to bare metal...do you use that?
Hey Pete, You would not believe how hard it was to finally obtain epoxy primer/sealer...Thanks to you I persisted and finally got some (in Australia). The stuff I got can be sanded, but it is not a filler or 2k sandable primer. If you break through it must be spot sealed. This stuff etches and seals the metal to help reduce the chance of rust travelling any further under the epoxy sealer e.g if you get stone chips. I probably make no sense but thanks to you, but I have the stuff. Interestingly the hardener is nothing like any 2k primer hardener. It has a very distinctive odour, and my primer/sealer must have a special dedicated thinner. 2K thinner does not blend at all. Any project I do, gets applied first. Bog (bondo) can go over it, after a 320 sanding for keying.
@@SOLDOZER No, but any knowledge or info you have I will always consider. Remember these are Australian made products...Concept and Florite epoxy primers are sandable. refer to ua-cam.com/video/N_3WIdr-dWk/v-deo.html @ 2:35.
i think maybe i've got it. the epoxy "primer" (sealer) is for protecting bare metal while you do body work. sand off epoxy primer to do body work. re-prime to protect body work. then we remove all the sealer, and use a sandable primer. or, after body work and blocking, seal with epoxy "primer", then color.
Yeah like a suspension part that been sandblasted and use epoxy sealer as a non-sanding situation and then paint But i preffer washprimer -> 2k high build -> sand it out and then paint if it is on the outside of the car (or other items that is supposed to be pretty)
I agree Pete because rust scares me especially when I am doing a vehicle for me, myself and I. This 1967 C10 pickup fortunately had way less rust on it than many. But properly stripped, cleaned bare metal multiple panels is something I can't done in a month, 6 months or multiple years. I want it sealed like a layer of liquid plastic wrap, outside and in. That is right, the inside of doors, bedsides, behind the window pinch welds, behind and inside the inner wheel house(S) all four. The bedsides are neglected and the Rodney Dangerfeild of body panels. To me, it is NOT enough to have cleaned the inside of the side bed panels (As we are talking a truck) using your methods of metal cleaning with "Muriatic Acid, followed by vinegar solution then drying with heat & a leaf blower if needed to reach with my long arms and scuff, wax & grease then spray each with two coats of epoxy primer for mil-thickness and protection I desire to have inside these panels so I can sleep well knowing I did everything correctly to get best protection I can have on these hidden areas. They will be painted with a good coat of black to provide that rock chip, ice burg hit they take and be safe. Formulas of plastic filler have come and long way since the 50's when introduced, but regardless of what they pack in the can, to me, first needs bare metal but act as a sponge. I have removed factory paint from our family cars where a rock chip is visible and find an 8 inch spider web of rust fingers the size of pencil lines appear like lightening bolts that cover the night sky, and this freaks me out in amazement how it travels under OEM paint. Dipped at the factory or not, this damage never sleeps. So hammer & dolly or sand to apply a quality filler, I will re-coat these repair with epoxy and not the "DTM" type as this stuff with a mild acid is trapped under everything else you do afterwards and I don't trust it! You video info is dead on in todays world as being pushed at the point of sale as a product that does everything ! I call this "Spray & Pray" as every product of theirs after that will last for ever. I have OEM pressure pot with quick release hose nozzles for internal frame coating, but has 11 quarts. I just took delivery of 4 more in a case. This goes inside doors, rockers, A-pillar, B-pillar, roof, inside bed sides (pickup) but all places water goes but not sunshine. Your videos on epoxy it step one on bare metal. If folks ignore this step & product, they should use house paint to finish the vehicle. But always researching and not seeing common sense applied. It is like a concourse restoration but no seam sealer! Isn't that step 3rd or fourth? DK, ASE master, retired. Blessings on you knee surgery soon! Take care...
@@PhillipHall01 I didn't own a cell since 2008, but now 4 fusions and 3 surgeries since December has left me using a cain to walk. I have to go back to the fall of 86, to lock my toolbox, walk out and change jobs. This would have avoided the injury outside the shop that took five hours. I am not able to stand in front of my own tool box to put tools away. I wish. Thanks!
@@PhillipHall01 I am sorry as I can't quit thinking about your question. I would enjoy sharing what I learned but physical going down hill fast. I have a son out of state who is doing very well in business, my youngest has a desire for his 80's cars but has developed a very abrasive personality. He ask me to mix paint products and I used my spray gun, not his purple one. His 81 El Co needed the twin cooling fans wired & a newer single wire alt. I added fused distribution center and ATC center that is off with key. Choke heater, alt, 2 fans do not need to drag the starter down on his 450HP 383 cu in stroke I built him 4 years ago. He blew up two diff's, 2 transmissions until I built a 700R4 capable of 600HP. He wants it done, but my nature it to explain...he gets mad claiming I am waisting time! He wants to wear his hat backwards, smile and wave at total strangers! That is a cry for attention. He gets mad because I never taught him to MIG weld, yet he simply yells at me to do it, he takes off. No respect, mess, can't put sockets or wrenches away as he claims he doesn't understand fractions. 90% is metric on the floor, bench and driveway. I saw gum foil in the grass on my way to the mailbox, took a detour to pick it up, found my 10mm long pattern combination wrench from SnapOn laying there. He was born in 85, I told him the wrench is older than him & cost me $26 to replace. He blamed me, he is gone from my house back to his baby's mama rental house, two boys + dog! He drinks straight whiskey and she does to. Shame. He has hit me, pushed me backwards over parts and called cops on me in my house. I leave a room, go to garage, he shows up an hour later, starts in again. I leave the garage, go outside close the door and sit on the landscaping. I have a declining back problem & they are running out of things to try. Where to my tools go? Who gets my house, motorcycle, 69 Datsun 1600 Roadster restored. I have 2 tons of new boxed GM parts and can't figure out how to use Facebook marketplace! I have room behind the house for a nice sized garage, but permits, concrete, wood everything is bad timing. We live in beef country surrounded by towns with packing plants yet paid $4.58 per pound at a reasonable store. Crazy! We don't go out to eat, I never go anywhere, want to buy some 2X4" metal tubing to build a rotisserie but they told me $890 for 24' with 6 cuts ($1 per cut) What? Oh well that is life. Stay healthy and safe. After 7yrs as Raytheon contract Labor holding 4hr tech seminars in 7 states, they say my number climb to 100+ at seminars as 54 others say declines. No one will stay if you don't bring an "A-Game." Best of luck!
@@deankay4434 Wow Dean, I don't know what to say. Your Son is Blessed beyond his understanding to have a Daddy like you. Its sad he does not realize just how blessed he is to have you. I am sorry your golden years are not happy ones. I think it is awesome that he someone like you who is knowledgeable and skilled in your profession who is more than willing to teach him. It seems to be the way of the world these days. Just as the Bible says people lacking natural affection. God Bless you in your sorrows and may he shine a light of hope and love in your life. Jesus is the answer and Jesus is the Way. John 14 King James Version 1. Let not your heart be troubled: ye believe in God, believe also in me. 2, In my Father's house are many mansions: if it were not so, I would have told you. I go to prepare a place for you. 3. And if I go and prepare a place for you, I will come again, and receive you unto myself; that where I am, there ye may be also. 4. And whither I go ye know, and the way ye know. 5. Thomas saith unto him, Lord, we know not whither thou goest; and how can we know the way? 6. Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me. Blessing Dean, Phillip
@@PhillipHall01 I have been looking in the Bible as well but can't find the passage; Let thy spinal cord stimulator technician know his trade! ;) I live one day at a time even though the new neighbors ask my wife who the guy is, that is mowing the leafs and lawn while walking wife a cain? I would just as soon be in the top of the barn stacking hay on a 100 degree F day, it was easier. Over a week and had not heard back from stimulator rep/tech or Dr. I believe they want this 6' 3" guy to go away after they had 3 tries. I was 62 when they started last December. Getting worse each year and it scares me. Then they tell me about a lot of scare tissue...YES! 4 fusions, 1 done twice, 2 are bone, 2 are rods, screws and bars (Harrington procedure / internet video if you have the stomach to watch) radio frequency ablation, stimulator trial = good (60-70%) implant = backwards, went down legs into heels, not up into lumbar? Then second set of electrodes = 4" right of spine in ribs not spine. I am almost ready to give up if it wasn't for my pickup rebuild. Engine / transmission done. I hope I can get it done! Thanks for the very words.
Every filler I've used says to put it over bare metal. I would follow the instructions on your filler's can or TDS(technical data sheet, which is the manufacturer's instructions, basically). I mostly use Evercoat Rage Ultra, which is probably overpriced but I can find it for $60-$70 a gallon. On Amazon it was $128 last time I checked.
Epoxy primers are also peroxide activated. Urethane s are cyanide activated. Pete is spot on explaining this. Thanks Pete. Lots of non painters claiming to be experts
@@ronbittner450 many respected painters put filler on top of epoxy primer. Personally, I put body filler on bare metal because I think that’s what Evercoat Rage Ultra recommends in it’s TDS. I’m not sure if they mention epoxy primer. I don’t doubt that it’s probably better to our body filler on top of epoxy primer but I don’t like the part where I have to spot prime all of the spots where I sand through the epoxy. Seems like it’s probably better than way though. Again, I put filler on bare metal, personally.
I'm about to epoxy primer my suv for winter driving because the paint is trashed it looks like a meth mobile.. will I be safe to drive all winter and paint when the weather breaks in spring?
Thank you for unf...cking my head when it comes to primer. So many freaking videos out there you never know which one to believe but I always seem to come back to you and mini cuz I don't have to hear the other b*******
So my friend Pete, my question to you is, I live in Minnesota and basically a tuck under garage. Cars flash rust real quick up here. If I’m taking a car down to bare metal and can’t do all the prep work on the car at once. To keep the metal from flash rusting would I then apply the epoxy primer sealer then when I get to that part of the car, would I then grind it down to bare metal to do the body work then primer over that again? Thanks My friend Pete, I really like your channel
Well said, I never heard this before and is very logical. Prior to a build I'm planning, I've only done body work once to be honest, turned out sweet,, BUT I had to redo and redo and redo because I was only using epoxy primer... Thank you sir.
Ok Pete I watched again if you could say when to use epoxy primer and when to use polyester primer that would help me understand. Thanks for making your videos I really enjoy watching them.
Thank you. I do have a question: why use "epoxy primer (sealer)" at all? is the purpose to prevent rust? Why use "epoxy primer (sealer)" once all the body work is done, prior to painting? why don't just use primer?
If you have a car that has been stripped to bare metal, putting an epoxy sealer on the bare metal will protect it from moisture so it won't rust while doing body work over long time period. It's waterproof while sandable primers are not. Resealing prior to painting gives you a better surface for your paint and color to be more consistent. Your paint won't soak in the epoxy sealer like it would on softer primers and give you inconsistencies where you may have body filler and areas that don't.
After block sanding you will have areas where your primer is thicker in places than others and areas that have filler and areas that don't. So your paint will lay on top of some areas more than others and soak in areas more than others. A seal coat before painting will give you a consistent surface for a more consistent look.
Been in the business since 86. To my knowledge...epoxy isn't porus like fill primer. Even direct to metal is questionable, as long as you never watersand until you have it painted. No epoxy under fill primers can result in moisture absorption down to the bare metal. Lacquer primer days, people stripped to bare metal, primed, put outside to cure and shrink. Then it gets wet, later watersand it for paint. Wash it all up,then paint. 2 months later...all these small bubbles come up in the paint. Oh it's moisture in your air lines, possibly! But more likely you didn't have an epoxy under you primer that keeps moisture from soaking thru. Just an observation.
I can spray epoxy sealer lol and paint over it no sanding😂 but it must be in the window of opportunity, you have to make sure there is no runs, but I sprayed the 2K on epoxy without sanding once again, if it’s in the window before it sets up fully I only spray paint over epoxy on the Flores or inside the cab
There is so many different epoxy paints, most are gummy to sand. Some industrial use epoxy primers go rock hard and are pretty ok so sand. Harder to sand than highbuild 2k primers, but still pretty ok. Remember folks to accurately measure the hardner and paint in epoxies, too litle hardner and wont cure. Too much hardner and the "too much" part of the hardner will not be used in the cross linking prosess and will act like a plastisizer.. and paint will be soft and gummy. Acrylics and polyurethanes aint even close to be so tempementral as epoxies are. So measure the parts of paint/hardner, not just pour by eye.
This is what I dont like about paint industry. Confusing names about their own products. They say primer while its not. They say Acrylic urethane but its only urethane etc. As far as I know EP should only use as sealer. Sealing bare metal or sealing your 2k primer surfacer before laying your base paint for max adhesion and proper hiding. Its also ( for me ) a reason why I dont prefer putting bodyfiller over an EP. Its not meant to be block sanded and filling imperfections like your regular 2k priner surfacer does. It also gum your sandpaper a lot.
Err... Regular epoxy primer is not sandable... BUT sandable versions do exist. Epoxy primer is a moisture sealer and the best option when you are not going to paint the car soon. It is the primer used on new pre-primed panels.
So body work first on bare metal then spray epoxy, can high build primer be used on top or is high build primer for bare metal all this knowledge you drop makes me want to not do my own body work
Epoxy primer is for if you're stripping your whole car to bare metal only. It's to protect the bare metal, nothing else. If you're not stripping your car to bare metal, you would not use it.
So epoxy for metal, then any body work repairs then primer for something to guide coate and block? I'm a newbie but metal is the way I'm going as paints cracked and very very old.
@@SOLDOZER missing my point. I had gumming up on dry sandpaper so I used wet and no more gumming. I was being general in my "question" meaning wet sanding would stop gumming. Not specific to the point where he was at in his procedure. And this is the first time I heard you can't wet sand in this context..chill, too much stress from you. You will meet newbies you know? All have to learn and ask seemingly "dumb" questions at time or repeat questions you have heard asked before. Take it easy.
@@saeefullahmohammad1402 You are correct you can wetsand epoxy primer. If i use it as a sealer before base, and i need to nib out any dust imperfections, 800 grit wet works great.
Has anyone tried SPI Epoxy Primer? It IS sand-able, will not gum up when dry sanding. And can be reduced to be used as a sealer. Might be too thin for heavy build areas, but can build small stuff.... Just wondering if anyone tried it?
I Use it all the time! Very good Sealer! Yes you are correct it will not gum up sandpaper after sitting 48 or more hours before sanding. Sands quite nice actually, obviously not as nice as a 2K urethane Primer but its not meant for that purpose anyways.
Yeah but that's not a true sealer but a true sealer will not be sandable it's non-sanding a true sealer is self leveling and does just what it says seals and is not porous like a over reduced primer
Another Video on Epoxy Primer -- I get more calls on this subject then anything else.. Thanks for watching! Please support My Friend Pete and Minnie by checking out the Merchandise Shelf above this comment and Buying SOME COOL STUFF!
Hey Pete, I got some stuff from a paint supply store that claimed to be a "hybrid 2 in 1" Epoxy Primer and High Build all in one....was 380 a gallon....I got hosed right...😂 Praying you hand / elbow tendon surgery goes well and you feel better after
First time ever somebody explained thoroughly in youtube what a sealer actually is! Thank you!
I have learned most of what I know about painting from you Pete. I really appreciate DIY Auto School. I'm still learning but after a few cars I'm getting a lot better. You've always been clear about Epoxy sealer but I can see how other places would really confuse someone about the topic. I love all of your educational videos.
Me too
Epoxy primer, depending on the brand will not fully cure for 3-7 days. If your sanding before it fully cures it’ll gum up. When a true epoxy cures it’ll sand like stone. Epoxy primers have a working time you can finish prime or use body filler, or color coat without sanding. If you exceed that time you have to sand it and that will be difficult. Epoxy primer is a fantastic bare metal sealer, you just have to finish it before it fully cures.
Yea noticed the super long curing time.. prob due to being single pack with no hardener.
@@patrickm9785 No, it is deliberate to allow to do light body filler work that flashed after sealing, then top coating within two days
Great information and spot on. Epoxy “primer” has excellent adhesion and sealing properties, but it does not sand well at all. Ideally, you shoot over it with your polyester “sanding” primer wet-on-wet. (After the epoxy has flashed off but while it is still just barely on the edge of tacky). So when should you ever sand epoxy primer? Epoxy primer *needs* to be sanded or scuffed before the next layer when you’ve gone outside of the open or full cure window generally around 24 to 48 hours for most products, as always look at your technical data sheets. You can save yourself a ton of work by being ready to put your polyester (or urethane) sanding primer on immediately after you epoxy prime/seal. However there are times when you need to wait days, weeks, or even more before moving to the next stage, so sometimes sanding or scuffing epoxy is necessary to remove the “rind” that develops and reduces next layer adhesion. AFAIK polyester doesn’t have this issue, but then again, polyester sanding primer doesn’t provide as much of a moisture barrier (it’s porous) and isn’t quite as good with adhesion.
Not to get into disagreements, everybody has their own take on materials, but the best way to start from bare metal up is epoxy prime itimmediately before any oxidation can start. Then you CAN do your filler work over that, scuff it if it has been longer than recomendation of manufaturer but usueal a few days is cool. Applying body filler direct to bare metal is fine if no oxydation has started but if you get a chip down to bare metal later it will rust and creep under the filler becasue the filler is pourous. The same reason Pete says he wont put polyester primer over bare metal. Polyester primer is basically sprayable polyester body filler. Start with epoxy primer, do body filler work, then polyester primer if needed or urethane primer, then to urethane sealer then paint or straight to paint depending on prep and if there is any sand throughs. Thats my opinion and the products data sheets will align with that. There are sandable hybid epoxies out there also that can be sanded. Not trying to be a know it all, but like the commercial,.....I know a few things ;)
Hey Pete. Another good video, and you are spot on as usual. Just a bit of information for anyone in the UK or Europe, I don't know what the situation is in the States. There is a coatings brand called HB Body, it is manufactured in Greece. I have used their products for years with good results. They make an epoxy primer which, according to their TDS can be thinned down quite a lot (40% rings a bell), this allows it to be used like a wet on wet non-sanding primer. You can apply it with a 1.3mm fluid tip and it goes on really smooth. It is ideal for those areas where you have rubbed through the original epoxy coating exposing bare metal. Just a very light scuff with 320 leaves it ready for accepting high build 2K primers.
Bob, That sounds like a DTM to me. Matrix sells a MP 200 here in America that does what you described above. I for one am not ready to completely trust this. But I am not disputing you. Maybe I am being overly cautious. lol
Phillip Hall
As i work on a project it is moved in and out of the shop so i seal it with epoxy then body work over that. The humidity is low here so if i can keep it in the shop i would body work without sealing. There is no one way of doing things but a reason to do things certain ways at certain times. I also seal before base coat so i do not have to worry about burn throughs. With sufficient dry time there is no worry of dieback
Best channel on UA-cam!!! By far been watching my friend Pete for a while now.
Thank you so much Pete for your videos I thought you were supposed to seal it first but now I understand I was wrong so thank you very very much
Thanks a ton for the valuable knowledge you provide to everyone, Pete😇 stay blessed
Thanks so much for this video. I have a Falcon that got stalled for over 7 years that I used epoxy on 80% of the metal. I would like to get started on it again but still have some body work/high build to shoot on the car. Had no clue how to deal with the now 7 year old epoxy. You answered all of my questions.
If i repaint a car and rust is there i remove the rust and then epoxy primer even before bondo if i bondo over metal i epoxy prime over that then 2k sandable primer. Epoxy should gas out a few days then put 2k sandable primer over and don sand through then just paint over the sanded primer. easy as that.
Thanks Pete for helping me learn the right way and clarifying and cutting through the lies out there . I appreciate you.
Well explained thanks! One question, you mentioned can paint directly over Epoxy primer(sealer) but will that get good adhesion? Because sanding the epoxy is out of the question.
That's what it's used for. Basic two ways to apply. One way, after you have completed all your bodywork you use it as a sealer then topcoat before it cures as per TDS. Make sure you reduce it per TDS so that it lays slick and you reduce any chances of orange peel. Or two, If you are going bare metal and extensive bodywork you spay it as a sealer without the added reducer then do bodywork the areas that need filler etc. When you are done then 2k high build prime over it and block and guide coat to finish. Then top coat. Or before top coating, at that point if you are spraying reds, yellows or orange's you can tint and seal with with urethane primer that has been reduced per TDS to lay slick and immediately spray topcoat within tack period as per TDS. You do that to make surface uniform same color to reduce the amount of paint required to achieve coverage. Sealing also eliminates shrink back from body filler absorption. Otherwise you will see the filler in the final paintjob. It will look like dull areas in the paint......:)
👍 I see lots of people making this big mistake and using epoxy primer as a finish before paint.Only industrial epoxy primer works as prime but it's for stuctured steel.Great vids my Friend Pete!
First of all Pete, and Minnie i appreciate all the videos and all the knowledge you share! I enjoy your videos!
Question is i am painting a 1964 chevy impala. It has been dustless blasted and has some remenents of the laquer paint. Can i safely cover with epoxy primer or do i need to remove the laquer paint completely? Thank you for any info .
Do you have to wait for the full cure time on the epoxy after you spot prime before you cover it?
I'm more confused now than before. Primer sealer what is it?
I used to work for Ford 25 years ago. I worked in the insurance refinishing shop. In other words I took vehicles with bad paint from the factory and stripped them and repainted them. We would always etch primer then seal with PPG DP50 which is an epoxy SEALER,,we never called it primer. We never sanded the DP50, iit said on the can not the sand, use as a sealer only. After sealing we would the use PRIMER,,,PRIMER folks. We used PPG K36, which is an acrylic URETHANE PRIMER,,,we would sand it smooth and then reseal with DP50 agin then paint.....IT IS A SEALER not a primer.....
Why not just call it epoxy sealer Already have filler primer 1K primer 2K primer Geish
All this newer faster confusing stuff but with a one man show, you can't afford help even if you could find trustworthy people the new stuff is time saving and cost effective.
Great exsplaining the difference. Hope you and Minnie are well Pete!
Great Explanation, following your site why'll i get my 2002 Chevy Tahoe Ready. I had to strip the the roof and the hood down to the metal.. I am just doing a raptor Liner job.
When sanding rust off of the bare metal, should I use a high grit sand paper to make the surface ultra smooth before applying epoxy primer or is that not necessary?
So I'm new to this but I've just finished sand blasting a trailer and I have actual real epoxy primer so are you saying I don't have to send it to put the pain on it.?
Hi Pete.... isn't it best to spray epoxy over metal and then use the body filler on top? Then prime and paint?
It depends on what type of epoxy primer you use. There are sandable versions you can use both on top and below the body filler.
I really appreciate the video. I was confused as hell on the sealers versus primers. 1976 TA to bare metal.
So if you have prepped bare metal shoot it with epoxy primer do you have to use 2k primer or can you go right to paint after the epoxy primer is sprayed also if you do body work can you epoxy over it and then paint or does 2k absolutely have to be used after epoxy primer
I just found you, and subscribed. I’ll be watching this video again, and looking at your other videos. I like the way you explain this topic.
Thank you.
Sanding a compound round fender my hats off baby
Sir i am currently sanding my 1981 chevy malibu to the metal because it has 5 layers of nasty material that has messed up two paint jobs because it was never sealed. My question is if there is any type of primer that i can spray over the bare metal maybe a high build and just sand and paint. I am not looking for a fancy paint job just something a step above primer. Im doing this in my storage room that small and hot and i want to just get this done with minimal steps. I need to prime each panel as i get done with it. I wouldn't mind sealing it as a last atep but firstly i need to prime the panels to protect against rust while i work panel per panel. I am not in very good shape or health but i am trying to do it myself at least get the sanding done so i can save some money. Then i will find a body man that can do body work prime where needed,seal and paint.
Id appreciate any advise.
Thanks for the reminder. Looking forward to the build ...
Hey Pete. Don't know if you'll ever see this comment but wanted to say I love your videos. I watch them pretty often but never catch your live streams. I work weird hours. Great content and for a guy working on his own like me...a source of inspiration.
So helpful, answered every question i had about epoxy and body work. Thanks a ton.
I am going to glass bead my auto frame, I will be using a black epoxy primer. Then I will use a urethane black paint as my finish coat. So, I do not need to sand the epoxy primer before applying the urethane?
Thanks for clearing this up for me. I thought it was really a sealer.
It seems to me that every manufacturer out there has a "sandable epoxy" or some magical "hybrid". What brand sealer do you recommend?
I only watch, listen & learn from my friend Pete. There's just too much miss information out there & Pete has been doing these videos (for our benefit) for well over a decade. He is Mr. Miyagi & you are Daniel San. Sand floor, paint fence, wax on wax off. Just do it !!!!
Excellent!!
Southern polyurethane aka spi has an epoxy that is very good.
Just curious...did you apply the Featherfill G2 to the bare steel?
Hi Pete, your thoughts on dustless vacuum sanding systems, Mirka vacuum and sanding blocks or Pinky's Blox sanding blocks from the UK. thinking of dropping a small fortune on 1 of these systems and would like to know why you're not using any sort of dustless system these days. Will I be wasting my money, any thoughts appreciated cheers.
There's Epoxy Primer that's Takes time to dry like a 72hr window pried to paint over with no scuffing necessary. But if you try to paing after it's 72hr window then your going to have to sand down for adhesion purpose. But!!!!!! If you lay the epoxy down and try to sand it yah you can for get about that hands down...but it is more solid of a primer then any reduction Reducers. I had a House of colors Epoxy 2k primer that I put on and let it bake out under the sun for a week and it was ready to sand not the easiest first layer to go through. But one's your over the bridge it's easy breezy sanding from there on.... But like he sead it's different strokes for different folk's..👍📍
Preach preacher! Very well presented information👌
Epoxy primer / sealer is what is says it is. ideally, you’re supposed to use 2K primer first sand it get it really nice and then once you blow it off, you can spray a coat of epoxy primer to make a nice even surface once that dries then you can apply paint. The word primer just means it can be used before paint. Like a primer you put on your wall at home to cover a blemish or dark spot before putting on the topcoat of paint. This helps with adhesion and coverage
Great video, keep the good work up Pete ❤
10-4 that's what I'm talking about Pete. Doing it right baby Woooooooo 👍😉✌
So I was told by a PPG rep that nothing will stick to the D P 90 that has been cured. Was told to scuff the D P re-coat, then 2 K before 24 hours do not sand in between
Whats up pete ... love the video keep up the great job always looking forward to learning from u thank you for the information
First of all I want to say I love your station. You're no BS guy and I like that. I'm working with a 63 Impala super sport that was my father's and restoring it I painted it once before in 1980 with pure lacquer. The lacquer is gone it's checked some rust. The car is very straight my question is do I strip it rough it up with 80 or 36 skim coat it with Bondo. Or strip it and coat it with epoxy and go from there. Cars in pretty good shape straight but I'd like to get it more straight. If you can please get back to me on this I appreciate it or I can exchange phone numbers and briefly talk to you I do need help on this matter. Thank you
House of colors makes a sandable epoxy primer
Thanks Pete.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge . It really helps.
You videos help me build my 1972 monte carlo
The first gen Monte Carlos are nice cars..
Pete how's it goin..? I wanna paint my harley ironhead , peanut tank and fender to look like a gray bomber plane with face and teeth...how much to do it lol...or what would be steps to prime, seal and paint...just what would you recommend...thanks bud hope all is well. Also when I went to vocational school for collision repair we used acid etch primer to bare metal...do you use that?
What happens to the Epoxy Primer where you sand thru the Polyester primer. Do you get scratches??
Hey Pete,
You would not believe how hard it was to finally obtain epoxy primer/sealer...Thanks to you I persisted and finally got some (in Australia). The stuff I got can be sanded, but it is not a filler or 2k sandable primer. If you break through it must be spot sealed. This stuff etches and seals the metal to help reduce the chance of rust travelling any further under the epoxy sealer e.g if you get stone chips.
I probably make no sense but thanks to you, but I have the stuff.
Interestingly the hardener is nothing like any 2k primer hardener. It has a very distinctive odour, and my primer/sealer must have a special dedicated thinner. 2K thinner does not blend at all.
Any project I do, gets applied first. Bog (bondo) can go over it, after a 320 sanding for keying.
You are still confused on what epoxy primer is.
@@SOLDOZER No, but any knowledge or info you have I will always consider. Remember these are Australian made products...Concept and Florite epoxy primers are sandable. refer to ua-cam.com/video/N_3WIdr-dWk/v-deo.html @ 2:35.
@@desobrien3827 Like he said in the video. True epoxy primers are not sandable. Sandable epoxy is a marketing gimmick.
i think maybe i've got it. the epoxy "primer" (sealer) is for protecting bare metal while you do body work. sand off epoxy primer to do body work. re-prime to protect body work. then we remove all the sealer, and use a sandable primer.
or, after body work and blocking, seal with epoxy "primer", then color.
Sounds about right !
New seam sealer
I should remove existing paint, apply epoxy “primer”-seam sealer-another layer of epoxy?
Great info
So if you wanted to seal everything before color can you use epoxy sealer reduced
Yeah like a suspension part that been sandblasted and use epoxy sealer as a non-sanding situation and then paint
But i preffer washprimer -> 2k high build -> sand it out and then paint if it is on the outside of the car (or other items that is supposed to be pretty)
Thank you Pete ! that is the best way there is thanks for the info keep it up man
What happens if I have some runs in my DTM primer?
I agree Pete because rust scares me especially when I am doing a vehicle for me, myself and I. This 1967 C10 pickup fortunately had way less rust on it than many. But properly stripped, cleaned bare metal multiple panels is something I can't done in a month, 6 months or multiple years. I want it sealed like a layer of liquid plastic wrap, outside and in. That is right, the inside of doors, bedsides, behind the window pinch welds, behind and inside the inner wheel house(S) all four. The bedsides are neglected and the Rodney Dangerfeild of body panels. To me, it is NOT enough to have cleaned the inside of the side bed panels (As we are talking a truck) using your methods of metal cleaning with "Muriatic Acid, followed by vinegar solution then drying with heat & a leaf blower if needed to reach with my long arms and scuff, wax & grease then spray each with two coats of epoxy primer for mil-thickness and protection I desire to have inside these panels so I can sleep well knowing I did everything correctly to get best protection I can have on these hidden areas. They will be painted with a good coat of black to provide that rock chip, ice burg hit they take and be safe. Formulas of plastic filler have come and long way since the 50's when introduced, but regardless of what they pack in the can, to me, first needs bare metal but act as a sponge. I have removed factory paint from our family cars where a rock chip is visible and find an 8 inch spider web of rust fingers the size of pencil lines appear like lightening bolts that cover the night sky, and this freaks me out in amazement how it travels under OEM paint. Dipped at the factory or not, this damage never sleeps. So hammer & dolly or sand to apply a quality filler, I will re-coat these repair with epoxy and not the "DTM" type as this stuff with a mild acid is trapped under everything else you do afterwards and I don't trust it! You video info is dead on in todays world as being pushed at the point of sale as a product that does everything ! I call this "Spray & Pray" as every product of theirs after that will last for ever. I have OEM pressure pot with quick release hose nozzles for internal frame coating, but has 11 quarts. I just took delivery of 4 more in a case. This goes inside doors, rockers, A-pillar, B-pillar, roof, inside bed sides (pickup) but all places water goes but not sunshine. Your videos on epoxy it step one on bare metal. If folks ignore this step & product, they should use house paint to finish the vehicle. But always researching and not seeing common sense applied. It is like a concourse restoration but no seam sealer! Isn't that step 3rd or fourth?
DK, ASE master, retired.
Blessings on you knee surgery soon! Take care...
Dean do you do videos? I would watch...... Phillip Hall
@@PhillipHall01 I didn't own a cell since 2008, but now 4 fusions and 3 surgeries since December has left me using a cain to walk. I have to go back to the fall of 86, to lock my toolbox, walk out and change jobs. This would have avoided the injury outside the shop that took five hours. I am not able to stand in front of my own tool box to put tools away. I wish. Thanks!
@@PhillipHall01 I am sorry as I can't quit thinking about your question. I would enjoy sharing what I learned but physical going down hill fast. I have a son out of state who is doing very well in business, my youngest has a desire for his 80's cars but has developed a very abrasive personality. He ask me to mix paint products and I used my spray gun, not his purple one. His 81 El Co needed the twin cooling fans wired & a newer single wire alt. I added fused distribution center and ATC center that is off with key. Choke heater, alt, 2 fans do not need to drag the starter down on his 450HP 383 cu in stroke I built him 4 years ago. He blew up two diff's, 2 transmissions until I built a 700R4 capable of 600HP. He wants it done, but my nature it to explain...he gets mad claiming I am waisting time! He wants to wear his hat backwards, smile and wave at total strangers! That is a cry for attention. He gets mad because I never taught him to MIG weld, yet he simply yells at me to do it, he takes off. No respect, mess, can't put sockets or wrenches away as he claims he doesn't understand fractions. 90% is metric on the floor, bench and driveway. I saw gum foil in the grass on my way to the mailbox, took a detour to pick it up, found my 10mm long pattern combination wrench from SnapOn laying there. He was born in 85, I told him the wrench is older than him & cost me $26 to replace. He blamed me, he is gone from my house back to his baby's mama rental house, two boys + dog! He drinks straight whiskey and she does to. Shame. He has hit me, pushed me backwards over parts and called cops on me in my house. I leave a room, go to garage, he shows up an hour later, starts in again. I leave the garage, go outside close the door and sit on the landscaping. I have a declining back problem & they are running out of things to try. Where to my tools go? Who gets my house, motorcycle, 69 Datsun 1600 Roadster restored. I have 2 tons of new boxed GM parts and can't figure out how to use Facebook marketplace! I have room behind the house for a nice sized garage, but permits, concrete, wood everything is bad timing. We live in beef country surrounded by towns with packing plants yet paid $4.58 per pound at a reasonable store. Crazy! We don't go out to eat, I never go anywhere, want to buy some 2X4" metal tubing to build a rotisserie but they told me $890 for 24' with 6 cuts ($1 per cut) What? Oh well that is life.
Stay healthy and safe. After 7yrs as Raytheon contract Labor holding 4hr tech seminars in 7 states, they say my number climb to 100+ at seminars as 54 others say declines. No one will stay if you don't bring an "A-Game."
Best of luck!
@@deankay4434
Wow Dean, I don't know what to say. Your Son is Blessed beyond his understanding to have a Daddy like you. Its sad he does not realize just how blessed he is to have you. I am sorry your golden years are not happy ones. I think it is awesome that he someone like you who is knowledgeable and skilled in your profession who is more than willing to teach him. It seems to be the way of the world these days. Just as the Bible says people lacking natural affection. God Bless you in your sorrows and may he shine a light of hope and love in your life. Jesus is the answer and Jesus is the Way.
John 14 King James Version
1. Let not your heart be troubled: ye believe in God, believe also in me.
2, In my Father's house are many mansions: if it were not so, I would have told you. I go to prepare a place for you.
3. And if I go and prepare a place for you, I will come again, and receive you unto myself; that where I am, there ye may be also.
4. And whither I go ye know, and the way ye know.
5. Thomas saith unto him, Lord, we know not whither thou goest; and how can we know the way?
6. Jesus saith unto him, I am the way, the truth, and the life: no man cometh unto the Father, but by me.
Blessing Dean, Phillip
@@PhillipHall01 I have been looking in the Bible as well but can't find the passage; Let thy spinal cord stimulator technician know his trade! ;) I live one day at a time even though the new neighbors ask my wife who the guy is, that is mowing the leafs and lawn while walking wife a cain? I would just as soon be in the top of the barn stacking hay on a 100 degree F day, it was easier. Over a week and had not heard back from stimulator rep/tech or Dr. I believe they want this 6' 3" guy to go away after they had 3 tries. I was 62 when they started last December. Getting worse each year and it scares me. Then they tell me about a lot of scare tissue...YES! 4 fusions, 1 done twice, 2 are bone, 2 are rods, screws and bars (Harrington procedure / internet video if you have the stomach to watch) radio frequency ablation, stimulator trial = good (60-70%) implant = backwards, went down legs into heels, not up into lumbar? Then second set of electrodes = 4" right of spine in ribs not spine. I am almost ready to give up if it wasn't for my pickup rebuild. Engine / transmission done. I hope I can get it done! Thanks for the very words.
Wouldn't the peroxide in the filler cause it to rust if you do body work over bare metal?
Every filler I've used says to put it over bare metal. I would follow the instructions on your filler's can or TDS(technical data sheet, which is the manufacturer's instructions, basically). I mostly use Evercoat Rage Ultra, which is probably overpriced but I can find it for $60-$70 a gallon. On Amazon it was $128 last time I checked.
The peroxide in the harder is technically corrosive to bare metal. Does it cause any issues? None that I have ever seen.
Epoxy primers are also peroxide activated.
Urethane s are cyanide activated. Pete is spot on explaining this.
Thanks Pete. Lots of non painters claiming to be experts
@@ronbittner450 many respected painters put filler on top of epoxy primer. Personally, I put body filler on bare metal because I think that’s what Evercoat Rage Ultra recommends in it’s TDS. I’m not sure if they mention epoxy primer. I don’t doubt that it’s probably better to our body filler on top of epoxy primer but I don’t like the part where I have to spot prime all of the spots where I sand through the epoxy. Seems like it’s probably better than way though. Again, I put filler on bare metal, personally.
@@Titans2138 I have also put fillers over epoxy and straight over metal.Depends on what I'm going for $$$$
I'm about to epoxy primer my suv for winter driving because the paint is trashed it looks like a meth mobile.. will I be safe to drive all winter and paint when the weather breaks in spring?
Just prep the surface really well with 80 grit on a da sander you’ll be fine
So you can just redo it again in spring
If you use EPOXY PRIMER. Yes.
Epoxy primer sealer
Thank you for unf...cking my head when it comes to primer. So many freaking videos out there you never know which one to believe but I always seem to come back to you and mini cuz I don't have to hear the other b*******
Good job thank you for sharing 👍
I'm old enough to remember when there was no epoxy primer/sealer or 2k primer. Yet somehow paint jobs would last 20 years if you took car of the car.
So my friend Pete, my question to you is, I live in Minnesota and basically a tuck under garage. Cars flash rust real quick up here. If I’m taking a car down to bare metal and can’t do all the prep work on the car at once. To keep the metal from flash rusting would I then apply the epoxy primer sealer then when I get to that part of the car, would I then grind it down to bare metal to do the body work then primer over that again?
Thanks My friend Pete, I really like your channel
Not sure if MFP replied to you or not, but yes thats how you do it, if your working in stages
Yes you got it
When stripping to bare metal and doing Epoxy you can do one panel at a time. Strip > Clean > Spray with epoxy. Repeat with every panel.
Thanks! g m ,I appreciate that
@@SOLDOZER thanks 😊 for the reply and advice
Well said, I never heard this before and is very logical. Prior to a build I'm planning, I've only done body work once to be honest, turned out sweet,, BUT I had to redo and redo and redo because I was only using epoxy primer... Thank you sir.
Ok Pete I watched again if you could say when to use epoxy primer and when to use polyester primer that would help me understand. Thanks for making your videos I really enjoy watching them.
Epoxy on bare metal. Poly on filler
Epoxy = For protecting bare metal.
Poly = Sprayable bondo.
Great video....I learned!
Simply put, primer is for adhesion and corrosion protection. Primer/Surfacer is for smoothing imperfections out.
Does the color of epoxy primer matter?
Where does Rustoleum's Rusty Metal Primer fall into this? Asking for a friend. (I only use it on firewalls, etc.)
That's junk 1K for your patio furniture, not automotive paining.
@@SOLDOZER I know, Karen. ua-cam.com/video/LsnBrVjOc2w/v-deo.html
I used to use ditslers dp 40 for sealer before I would paint, I bet crazy expensive now though
Very!
Thank you. I do have a question: why use "epoxy primer (sealer)" at all? is the purpose to prevent rust?
Why use "epoxy primer (sealer)" once all the body work is done, prior to painting? why don't just use primer?
If you have a car that has been stripped to bare metal, putting an epoxy sealer on the bare metal will protect it from moisture so it won't rust while doing body work over long time period. It's waterproof while sandable primers are not. Resealing prior to painting gives you a better surface for your paint and color to be more consistent. Your paint won't soak in the epoxy sealer like it would on softer primers and give you inconsistencies where you may have body filler and areas that don't.
After block sanding you will have areas where your primer is thicker in places than others and areas that have filler and areas that don't. So your paint will lay on top of some areas more than others and soak in areas more than others. A seal coat before painting will give you a consistent surface for a more consistent look.
Thank you.@@caseycassidy-k4z
Thank you.@@caseycassidy-k4z
Thanks Pete
Been in the business since 86. To my knowledge...epoxy isn't porus like fill primer. Even direct to metal is questionable, as long as you never watersand until you have it painted. No epoxy under fill primers can result in moisture absorption down to the bare metal. Lacquer primer days, people stripped to bare metal, primed, put outside to cure and shrink. Then it gets wet, later watersand it for paint. Wash it all up,then paint. 2 months later...all these small bubbles come up in the paint. Oh it's moisture in your air lines, possibly! But more likely you didn't have an epoxy under you primer that keeps moisture from soaking thru. Just an observation.
No misunderstanding this video, listen up people!
you can sand it wet if you have to. I don't recommend it but if you have to sand a run...
I can spray epoxy sealer lol and paint over it no sanding😂 but it must be in the window of opportunity, you have to make sure there is no runs, but I sprayed the 2K on epoxy without sanding once again, if it’s in the window before it sets up fully I only spray paint over epoxy on the Flores or inside the cab
There is so many different epoxy paints, most are gummy to sand. Some industrial use epoxy primers go rock hard and are pretty ok so sand. Harder to sand than highbuild 2k primers, but still pretty ok. Remember folks to accurately measure the hardner and paint in epoxies, too litle hardner and wont cure. Too much hardner and the "too much" part of the hardner will not be used in the cross linking prosess and will act like a plastisizer.. and paint will be soft and gummy. Acrylics and polyurethanes aint even close to be so tempementral as epoxies are. So measure the parts of paint/hardner, not just pour by eye.
Good video
I'm COFUSED AS HELL NOW! What primer do I need for fiber glass????
This is what I dont like about paint industry. Confusing names about their own products. They say primer while its not. They say Acrylic urethane but its only urethane etc. As far as I know EP should only use as sealer. Sealing bare metal or sealing your 2k primer surfacer before laying your base paint for max adhesion and proper hiding. Its also ( for me ) a reason why I dont prefer putting bodyfiller over an EP. Its not meant to be block sanded and filling imperfections like your regular 2k priner surfacer does. It also gum your sandpaper a lot.
Direct to metal primers were meant as a "shortcut" for very small bare metal areas,not for complete bare metal repaints
Err... Regular epoxy primer is not sandable... BUT sandable versions do exist.
Epoxy primer is a moisture sealer and the best option when you are not going to paint the car soon. It is the primer used on new pre-primed panels.
Why do I see so many respray jobs that go..... 1. Bodywork 2. Epoxy; (Flash and immediately go to step 3)
3. Base & Clear. Is that wrong?
So body work first on bare metal then spray epoxy, can high build primer be used on top or is high build primer for bare metal all this knowledge you drop makes me want to not do my own body work
Epoxy primer is for if you're stripping your whole car to bare metal only. It's to protect the bare metal, nothing else. If you're not stripping your car to bare metal, you would not use it.
So epoxy for metal, then any body work repairs then primer for something to guide coate and block? I'm a newbie but metal is the way I'm going as paints cracked and very very old.
Thanks
Good deal my friend Pete
👍your the man 😉
You can wet sand it no?
NOOOOOOOOOO
For the 2,000,000th time.........NOOOOO.
@@SOLDOZER missing my point. I had gumming up on dry sandpaper so I used wet and no more gumming. I was being general in my "question" meaning wet sanding would stop gumming. Not specific to the point where he was at in his procedure. And this is the first time I heard you can't wet sand in this context..chill, too much stress from you.
You will meet newbies you know? All have to learn and ask seemingly "dumb" questions at time or repeat questions you have heard asked before. Take it easy.
@@saeefullahmohammad1402 You are correct you can wetsand epoxy primer. If i use it as a sealer before base, and i need to nib out any dust imperfections, 800 grit wet works great.
Thanks pete
YOU THE MAN💯
Like it's really hard to add the word sealer to the word primer
What about DTM primer?
What about it?????
Has anyone tried SPI Epoxy Primer? It IS sand-able, will not gum up when dry sanding. And can be reduced to be used as a sealer. Might be too thin for heavy build areas, but can build small stuff.... Just wondering if anyone tried it?
I Use it all the time! Very good Sealer! Yes you are correct it will not gum up sandpaper after sitting 48 or more hours before sanding. Sands quite nice actually, obviously not as nice as a 2K urethane Primer but its not meant for that purpose anyways.
@@chadwetzel1322 and a VERY good DTM primer... 😉
Yeah but that's not a true sealer but a true sealer will not be sandable it's non-sanding a true sealer is self leveling and does just what it says seals and is not porous like a over reduced primer
@@tonydiesel3444 SPI Epoxy is a true Epoxy, It is not porous.
I only use it...
👍👍
200% true
Material cost are out of control now. Maybe we shod just go back to enamel paint jobs