I totally predicted your purchase of a real hammer drill when I saw your video about getting angry with concrete drilling. Sorry, but I was giggling to myself the whole video as you struggled knowing full well someone will eventually tell you your "hammer drill" is not a hammer drill. I am a very loyal watcher and and happy and excited that you have learned your hammer drill lesson.
Spyderco Native. I've been carrying one for over 6 years. Best knife I've ever carried. Holds a good edge, durable, lightweight, just the right size, feels good in the hand and doesn't take up a ton of room in a pocket. Get yourself the Spyderco sharpening system too.
Great Video guys and I have a suggestion on how to make that nice new Makita last a lot longer. First a qualifier, I work for a company that restores brick and stone buildings and I repair their tools. The handle on the nose of that Makita is to restrain rotation only, not to push. Pause your video when doing the first test holes and you will see that masonry drill bow. That will ruin the nose bearing on that tool very quickly and also break masonry bits. When you drill holes push with the hand on the trigger handle only. Also if you push lightly and let the hammer inside the tool run at full stroke and do its job you will drill holes faster and not wear yourself out. Second, the percussion setting on that cordless Makita is for light duty work like holes in tile for hanging towel racks and such. If you really wanna put holes in concrete use a “Hammer” drill, not a “Percussion” drill. We use both here where I work. Hammer drills for concrete and percussion drills for delicate work like terracotta, granite, and tile.
Don't bother he does not read the comments. He rather finds out things the hard way and refuses help being offered. Lately I only watch the channel for laughs. He reminds me of Laurel & Hardy or the three stooges. and other old time slap-sticks. He manages to mess up even the simplest of jobs that not even a fool could do wrong.
Well aren't you just a ray of sunshine. I for one look forward to their videos every day. How bout you not do your best to ruin it for the rest of us who enjoy their content
I think everyone already knows not to use an 18v Makita to drill concrete, well except Jessy, yet here he is now telling us what to do like we didn't already know. I wouldn't bother giving advice, because it sounds like he just laughs at people who do that, like we are all morons or something
Drilling advise!! when you drill don't push down so hard. Let the machine do the work instead. I have noticed at least when drilling stone that if you push hard your drilling bit will get warm and will be destroyed. Just push a little and let the machine do the work. The side handle is only meant to prevent the machine to rotate not push down more. In the video you can see the drill bit bend when you are pushing down as hard as you can.
Hi guys i was a tool salesman for a number of years and i have to say love Makita tools but for the SDS Plus bits I would go with the Milwaukee brand they are made of far better steel that what the feedback from customers. I really enjoy your vids and i am planning to start a new life like you have done. You both should be so proud of what you have both accomplished by yourselves with just a small bit of help every now and then my prayers are with you and I can't wait for the next update
I have had a Spyderco tenacious for the past five years. I absolutely love it. It takes a edge very well and holds it extremely well as well. Also it's not a bajillion dollars so you don't lose your mind if you lose it, but it's also not cheap so it doesn't break from little things like prying or scratching at things if you have to
Makita is a good name. It is in my opinion, really a homeowner tool. Not a bad tool, just more along the homeowner line. I myself have a Hitachi hammer drill. I was in business for a long time so I really needed a drill that could take a beating. The reason I am writing is that I noticed your husband was really pushing on that new drill and he could try letting up a bit on the pressure and let the "Tool" do the work. It's going to make the drill bit last a lot longer and will not tire him out as fast. The other thing is, Do Not drill through the wood with the concrete bit. It will also wear the drill bit prematurely. That's like cutting cardboard with your nice sharp knife, it will dull the heck out of it in no time. Just some food for thought. You folks are really doing a great job on your place and I hope you have the best outcome and many years of joy and happiness now and when you're done!
I know this is probably dated but if you pre-drill the sills with a regular bit, it will make running that concrete bit a whole lot easier and it saves on burning the bit. It seems like more work but when you are on the wall trying to force a bit through wood that is made for concrete, rock, and stone you save a lot of forcing them through wood.
Hey guys, hope you'll read this one Jesse, please don't put any pressure on the handle when drilling. it's only there to prevent turning of the machine when a bit get stuck. if you do put pressure on the handle when drilling with a smaller bit your probably bent your bit or snap it. probably the reason why most pro's leave that handle Hope this makes sense to you, and in doubt check your own footage when drilling, you'll see the bending even on that big bit Peace, and good luck with the build
The best EDC pocket knife is the Benchmade OSBORN 940, period, IMO. MSRP at $215.00 but you can find it for $185.00 if you look around. And it's made right here in the great Northwest, in Oregon City, Oregon. I've been carrying mine for six years and it has performed great, is an easy carry and I feel naked without it on my person. Free lifetime sharpening and repairs, also. You will not be disappointed.
Please let the drill to the work!! You don't have to push that hard, so the drill bit is bending like in the video. I felt pity with the tool. You won’t be faster when pushing hard, even slower, because the hammer is not able to work the right way. Just hold the Hammer-Drill in place and save your sweat. btw love your channel. Your explanations on building your home - even on your mistakes! Greetings from Austria.
HEY! VERY IMPORTANT! While using the "Hammer-Funktion" don`t put any wight or force on the drill. The Hammer hasn`t enought space for ( sorry I don`t know the englisch word) but I mean "hammering" or going up and down. We made a drilling-race when we built our home and i was much faster than my neighbour without any work or sweating... The drill needs space to jiggle... Graetings from Germany!
Sehr gut mine herr! Your English is much better than my Deutsche. Till has a very good point, you don't press down hard on the Rotary Hammer when it's in any form of hammering mode because the inertia of the moving parts does the work. That's why the "hammer drill" feature of those cordless drills aren't very good -- there's not much mass & only a few mm of movement -- very little inertia.
Used SDS drills for 20 years and can't imagine how life used to be. Have drilled many a 22mm hole in concrete with no problem. The only advice for long lasting bearings is, let the drill do the work. The percussive action of the drill will almost "pull" the bit in without any pushing and save you gallons of elbow grease. Another tip for drilling the deeper larger diameter holes, is to withdraw the bit a few times as the drill is running, which will keep the fine dust from collecting and grabbing the bit inside the whole. Good luck and thanks for the vids
You really can't beat the Spyderco Delica. It's available in serrated or plain blades in various sizes and handle materials. I've carried a 3" serrated blade with composite handle for 25 years now. The single thumb operation is about the best thing going. Not cheap but well worth the money.
Don't put so much pressure on the drill. You are working against the hammer action, just push enough to stop it from jumping around. When you put that much pressure on the drill it quickly overheats and gets dull. After a while you learn what it should sound like, it should be higher in pitch and you absolutely should use hearing protection. Also that hammer drill has a what I think is called a ratchet coupling, so that if the drill gets stuck it wont start to rotate on you and break your arms. Also very handy for using large hole saws in wood where the hole saws easily binds.
I don't comment on things, but you have inspired me to start working on my own home. I everyday carry the Leatherman skeletool. It has just what you need, knife, pliers, screwdriver, bottle opener. Fits great in the pocket, and isn't too big.
Hammer drill might not be the tool you need most often but when you do it's simply the only tool that'll do the job. There are many tasks you can complete by improvising with the wrong tools, but that's not the deal when drilling concrete. You need a hammer drill. I got lucky recently when our company did some warehouse cleanup and got rid of old(ish) corded tools and I received almost unused HILTI hammer drill with all the original bits and pieces plus the case. It's SO good. I could drill concrete all day.
@PLfL , you should NOT push on a sds drill but let the weight of the drill do the work , at most a few pounds of load.The hamer weight inside the drill needs to move forth and back against the sds drill and if you restrict that movement it will loose impact force, loosen up your grip.
Christopher Stewart yeah it love the assisted opening. Speaking of easy open, any of the Kershaw with the Wave feature are super nice. Deploys when you pull it out of your pocket. Great when you need a knife quickly and have your hands full. I have a couple of different models and the Emmerson Wave feature works great on both of them.
Ka-Bar Dozier Folding Hunter - Have had my first one for something like 18 years, still holds an edge and is my everyday carry. Single-handed opening with a thumb stud and a lock back blade, what I consider an essential feature for any working blade. Less than $30 from the manufacturer.
Hey man, you are pushing WAAAAY too hard on the front grip. You see in the video how your stop pin and not aligned with the bit? That means your flexing the bit and basically curving it. The pressure for drilling should come with your other hand that is in-line with the bit, and use the grip as a stabilizer. Just a helpful tip from my cousin who owns a concrete company
That moment of disappointment when you realise it's a tool video and not the pour day vid! :( But it's great that you finally got a SDS drill! Will make life so much easier!
I carry and use a pocket knife every day. I have not gone a single day (unless I am flying) without my pocket knife in my pocket for over 25 years. In the last 15 years have carried only two pocket knives. Both are the same design, but three different manufactures have produced them. It is called a Lev-r-lok knife made by Soque River (the one I currently carry going on 5 years). They sold the design to Camillus (one I used to carry for 10 years and still have it, blade was getting smaller from sharpening.) I believe ACME is now making the same design, but I haven't tried theirs. Zero issues with either knife even with heavy daily use. Holds a descent edge and didn't cost me huge $. Easy one handed opening.
Let the weight of the hammer do the work, no need to work harder then you have to. Also put a dab of lube on the shank of the bit every time you put it into the sds chuck. it helps with jamming and getting the bit stuck in there. Good luck and best wishes on your journey!
Next video: "DON'T TAKE A BATH until you see THIS VIDEO!" Summary: In this 20 minute-video, Jesse explains how he has discovered that using hot water makes the whole bathing experience so much better! :-P
The Kershaw Chive (made in USA) is the best small pocket knife I have had. It's not too expensive, has single handed spring assisted opening, has a lock to keep it from opening (can be deactivated), and is a liner lock for single handed closure. Basically find a USA made Kershaw (not from Walmart) and pick the one that fits you.
Another "how not to" video. A hammer drill works better when you not push it with all your weight/strength. It will brake your bit much sooner as it will bend and then snap. Let the tool do the work! If i see it right then that is a 5" diamond disk, and the grinder is a 4". It will fit but it will not be safe.
Okey, step 1: don't push on the machine when drilling in concrete, you only need to put as much pressure on the machine so the hammer function is activated, then you'll just let the drillingbit do the work Step 2: do step1 ;)
Milwaukee Fastback Compact Flip. I can't live without mine. I've used it for carpet, drywall and everything else! You can buy 100 blades and always have a really sharp blade at hand, and they are fairly cheap. So when you have to toss it because you forgot to take it out of your pocket at the airport, our you drop it in concrete, or you leave it on top of a grain silo. I've done them all and I just go grab a new one from the local big box. Buy an SDS chuck and you can throw anything else you have in that hammer drill. INCLUDING paddle bits for mixing paint, concrete, stucco, plaster. I use mine for everything heavy duty.
STOP PUSHING HARD ON THE DRILL!! Only push hard enough for a consistent hammering action. As soon as your rotation slows (even a little bit) down clear the hole by pulling out the bit while running.The cleaner the hole the easier it is to drill. Let the drill do the work you should not be straining in any way. I have drilled probably more than 100,000 holes in my career. The drill will do all the work. I love the channel and what your doing. Didnt mean to yell ;)
I have a Benchmade mini griptilian, this is the size knife you are looking for. Awesome one handed operation. If you want a larger knife the 940 Osborne is the way to go.
I love you guys. You are blessed with boundless energy and have super momentum. I have carried my Case Sod Buster knife for 42 years, my suggestion for you. Also, I have had my Milwaukee SDS hammer drill for 27 years and I still use it for drilling any masonry job.
My son gave me a Kershaw Rexford pocket knife for my birthday over a year ago. It is the best knife I have ever owned and love it. Fantastic stainless blade and holds an edge almost forever. Only need to do a touch up. I've misplaced it a couple of times and felt I had lost a friend. It's 3" blade and compact size and light weight make it ideal for the pocket. It is very pretty, too! I would highly recommend this knife.
Dont push so hard on a rotary hammer. The hammer action is supposed to do the work. Not you. It wont go faster and it puts alot of stress on the bit and tool. Just push enough to engage the rotary action :)
Worked for 42 years building power tools like this one. It appears you are applying a lot of pressure on the tool. This will wear out the tool prematurely. Only light pressure is needed to hold the drill in position, the drill will do the work on its own 😉👍
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but, in my experience, drilling a wood plate with a concrete drill bit is a real pain. A typical 1 1/2" plate wouldn't be a big deal, but 3" is a lot. You may consider pre-drilling your 3" plates with a wood bit, then come back with the concrete bit to finish your holes. Just a thought. Love the videos.
I am a gunsmith in the central Ohio area. One of my specialties is knife sharpening. I think the spyderco paramilitary 2 or 3 is one of the best knives out there.
(Very minor point) you don’t have to retract the collar on an sds to insert a bit. Only to eject after use. For insert, it should slide right in with a satisfying click.
The knife is very personal to your needs and way of using it. My first choice would be a Gerber Gator. Used this extensively during the three years I built large capacity industrial freezers. Everyone wanted it, so I bought 7 or 8 of them (all but mine disappeared!). Sturdy, lies good in your hand, one hand to flip up and folds nicely to fit your pocket. Easy to keep sharp. Still look it up in my old tool cabinet when revisiting the work shop. My second choice would be the good old Mora knife. Inexpensive, takes abuse, good handle but you need sheath when storing/holstering it. Also easy to keep sharp. Good luck.
Honestly my favorite pocket knife is the "Milwaukee FASTBACK Compact Flip Utility Knife". Yes it uses a razor blade so it's a utility knife, but it's very compact, the fastback flip motion makes it extremely easy to open and close with one hand, and it's super inexpensive so I keep several around my house / shop. Can't beat it!
In Germany we use the Rotary Hammers with SDS and SDS-Plus since the 1980s. I mostly used Maktia , AEG or Bosch , but for my private use i bought a cheap Rotary Hammer for around 40 Bucks and it does its work for more than 10 years now.... :-)
You'll be amazed how much easier drilling concrete is with a little water. I keep a cup of water next to me and dip the drill bit in every so often. It keeps the bit cooler and the water also acts as a lubricant in the hole being drilled. This is particularly helpful when drilling concrete that is old, like 30+ years old. Concrete continues to cure for years after it is poured.
One key thing aboute drilling is to not lean your body weight/force the drill into lets say the concrete.. Let the machine do the work for you. You will notice that it goes alot smoother and both the drill and machine will last longer :)
I've had a CRKT M16-01Z for a number of years and I really like it, nice and sturdy blade, one-handed opening and closing, very positive lock when open. And it's nice and slim to carry with you.
There's a lot of knife comments and while I'll throw out my suggestion (Kershaw Link for $40ish, or $80ish with a MUCH better steel and a great deal for American made)- I wanted to mention something you may not have noted with the rotohammer. Makita sells a grease which you should apply to the bit before you insert it into the tool. The grease is meant to help prevent the bits from locking up inside the tool and it also helps prevent dirt/concrete dust from getting where it shouldn't. If you don't use the grease, it's going to definitely shorten the lifespan of the quick change chuck. And as some have mentioned- push on the tool a little less. Those tools are amazing though. I haven't used the hammer mode on my drills in the last 4 years after getting SDS and SDS Max rotohammer
As a guy looking to become an electrician one of my major expenses will be tools - good tools. Guys like you who go hand on with all this stuff, are so much help to guys like us who don't necessarily know where to start when going from home use to industrial/commercial use and dont want to waste hundreds on the wrong option. Serious appreciation for all these reviews and advice.
Best Knife - I love my CRKT model M-16-01KZ. Light, positive locking, one hand operation. Holds an amazing edge. The clip works great as well. I have never owned a better pocket knife
Leatherman Skeletool CX, best ever, super sharp carbon heavy blade, has pliers and a simple flat/phillips and a built in clip so it clips to shorts, pants, belt etc. I carry it every day and it's super easy and sleek, small but capable. I've done everything from stripping wire, to unboxing, to cutting cardboard, etc. etc. etc.
The statement I wasn't going to run out and buy a drill just to do that job, doesn't make sense to me. Its a tool that will be used over and over, the money spent on just drill bits had to add up. Would have sped up the original job by a HUGE amount getting you back on track and not have to work with headlamps to finish. To this end with all the late night you do work why not go out and purchase some really good floodlights.
"Hammer drill has a 'ratcheting' effect" Nope. That would be an impact driver. A hammer drill can be conceptually simulated by twisting a drill bit between your fingers while pounding on the back end with a hammer. (Look up "star drill"). An Impact driver, on the other hand, can be graphically simulated by somehow clicking a Phillips bit into a mechanic's ratchet handle, then tapping the side of the ratchet handle so it turns the screw.
i like watching your videos and following you guys but for the love of god do not give advice in something you barely understand yourselves, the click baitey titles dont suit you guys either
Ive been using the Buck 327 Nobleman for a year or so now and I love it. Takes an edge well, and its very easy to pull out of the pocket and open quickly. Especially nice with the strong pocket clip.
Milwaukie Hardline Flipper. model 48-22-1994 3" D2 tool steel blade, ball bearing pivot, frame lock flipper blade pocket clip knife. So easy to flip open, use, then unlock and fold shut, and hang back in your pocket on its' clip all with using just one hand without even looking at it!! I love mine. The thick meaty blade really holds its' edge, too. So long as you have an SDS Drill Tool, you should pick up some chisels, punches, and an "SDS Bushing Tool" These all work without spinning, just hammering like a little jack hammer! Save your nice SDS drill bits for drilling holes. Save the wear and tear on your SDS drill bit, and use the Bushing Tool in that drill for cleaning out those beam pockets!
have the smaller SDS Makita hammer drill which I bought to help repair a cement wall my father and grandfather put in as a retaining wall, when I was a kid. I was chiselling by hand and decide to buy one. As I started learning to use it and the old cement started coming out, quicker than I anticipated, I got a little concerned on just how big this job was going to turn into but it cut the time it would of taken if I had done it all by hand. Also I was happier that I didn't have to worry about missing the chisel and whacking my left hand instead. I would buy another Makita in a heartbeat if necessary
The side handle is for what was mentioned in the beginning - stabilization and stopping the drill from spinning when it starts to get stuck. You should apply the pressure in line with the drill bit - at the top handle.
Benchmade mini griptilian ! I've owned it for years and it keep on trucking and the customer service is great. you can send it in for free sharpening any time. 10 out if 10
I would go for a Leatherman Wave. The blade opens with one finger. I have had mine since 2003 and carry it with me every day. It is like having a Toolbox in your pocket and I just love it. Greetings from Just outside Berlin' Germany! Jacques
First of all --It is a Roto-Hammer NOT A DRILL ! Sligtht pressure and keep pulling back to clear the "Fines" out of the hole---Let it work at its own pace
DON'T lean on this tool, just hold it against the concrete and let the machine do the work, you are bending the drill with the pressure you are applying. !!!!!!!!
Wow im so glad i didnt drill concrete before i watched you blather on for 22 min about nothing. Im actually surprised i made it through the whole video
I have carried a Benchmade griptilion for years, and recently someone gave me a Kershaw that holds screwdriver tips and a screwdriver. I love it as well.
Ease off the bit man, let the tool do the work. I would just let the weight of the hammer push the bit in. I could totally see your bit bending. Also, imagine trying to chisle a rock with someone pushing on the back of the hammer so you cant swing it back. rotary hammers works by hammering, not drilling like a drill bit into wood. The main purpose of the rotation is to remove the debris
Don't push so hard on the drill; the entire thing is flexing. just let the weight of the machine and the drill/hammer do its work. Pushing it just makes it all croocked
great that you have the new tool, but please use it correctly! Stop pushing so hard and let the tool do the work, and stop using the side handle as something to push on! It looked like you were about to snap the long bit with the sideforce you were putting on it.
Wow, 1718 comments, don't imagine you read them all. I was waiting to see the floor get poured, didn't you record that. I feel like I missed an episode. (not expecting an individual response)
When it comes to pocket knives, i would suggest the following. - Bench made - If they last you a long time, and you don't loose them often, spend some good money on it - Easy to sharpen your self - If it has a belt clip, it needs to be detachable - Not to thin, to make it more robust so you can pry with it - In a bright colour so it is easy to spot - No lanyard, just gets in the way and takes up space in you pocket - Buy it in a shop if possible, so you can touch and feel it before you buy, your hands and preferences are not the same as mine. Also will be easier with the guarantee - very strong mechanism for opening, this should come with a higher price any how, so it does not become flimsy or rattle after use I know this is not a suggestion on a specific knife, but there are to many good knifes out there, and especially if you buy it in a shop they might not carry the brand that I prefer.
For just a pocket knife, I use a Spiderco, easy to open, clip can be point up or down, right or left handed. Blade smooth, serrated or both. As cheap as $25. For a pocket tool, I use a leatherman skeletool, as it is light and has what I really need.
Don't push hard on the drill, let the machine do the work. The harder you push the less the hammer function works.
I totally predicted your purchase of a real hammer drill when I saw your video about getting angry with concrete drilling. Sorry, but I was giggling to myself the whole video as you struggled knowing full well someone will eventually tell you your "hammer drill" is not a hammer drill. I am a very loyal watcher and and happy and excited that you have learned your hammer drill lesson.
surprised the bit didn't snap with the force he was putting on it.
It looks like you put to much presure. You are not suposed to push on the handle.
Spyderco Native. I've been carrying one for over 6 years. Best knife I've ever carried. Holds a good edge, durable, lightweight, just the right size, feels good in the hand and doesn't take up a ton of room in a pocket. Get yourself the Spyderco sharpening system too.
Great Video guys and I have a suggestion on how to make that nice new Makita last a lot longer. First a qualifier, I work for a company that restores brick and stone buildings and I repair their tools. The handle on the nose of that Makita is to restrain rotation only, not to push. Pause your video when doing the first test holes and you will see that masonry drill bow. That will ruin the nose bearing on that tool very quickly and also break masonry bits. When you drill holes push with the hand on the trigger handle only. Also if you push lightly and let the hammer inside the tool run at full stroke and do its job you will drill holes faster and not wear yourself out.
Second, the percussion setting on that cordless Makita is for light duty work like holes in tile for hanging towel racks and such. If you really wanna put holes in concrete use a “Hammer” drill, not a “Percussion” drill. We use both here where I work. Hammer drills for concrete and percussion drills for delicate work like terracotta, granite, and tile.
Cyrus Cosmo exactly. Let the tool do the work don't bear down on it much.
Don't bother he does not read the comments. He rather finds out things the hard way and refuses help being offered. Lately I only watch the channel for laughs. He reminds me of Laurel & Hardy or the three stooges. and other old time slap-sticks.
He manages to mess up even the simplest of jobs that not even a fool could do wrong.
Well aren't you just a ray of sunshine. I for one look forward to their videos every day. How bout you not do your best to ruin it for the rest of us who enjoy their content
I think everyone already knows not to use an 18v Makita to drill concrete, well except Jessy, yet here he is now telling us what to do like we didn't already know.
I wouldn't bother giving advice, because it sounds like he just laughs at people who do that, like we are all morons or something
Drilling advise!! when you drill don't push down so hard. Let the machine do the work instead. I have noticed at least when drilling stone that if you push hard your drilling bit will get warm and will be destroyed. Just push a little and let the machine do the work. The side handle is only meant to prevent the machine to rotate not push down more. In the video you can see the drill bit bend when you are pushing down as hard as you can.
Hi guys i was a tool salesman for a number of years and i have to say love Makita tools but for the SDS Plus bits I would go with the Milwaukee brand they are made of far better steel that what the feedback from customers. I really enjoy your vids and i am planning to start a new life like you have done. You both should be so proud of what you have both accomplished by yourselves with just a small bit of help every now and then my prayers are with you and I can't wait for the next update
I have had a Spyderco tenacious for the past five years. I absolutely love it. It takes a edge very well and holds it extremely well as well. Also it's not a bajillion dollars so you don't lose your mind if you lose it, but it's also not cheap so it doesn't break from little things like prying or scratching at things if you have to
Makita is a good name. It is in my opinion, really a homeowner tool. Not a bad tool, just more along the homeowner line. I myself have a Hitachi hammer drill. I was in business for a long time so I really needed a drill that could take a beating. The reason I am writing is that I noticed your husband was really pushing on that new drill and he could try letting up a bit on the pressure and let the "Tool" do the work. It's going to make the drill bit last a lot longer and will not tire him out as fast. The other thing is, Do Not drill through the wood with the concrete bit. It will also wear the drill bit prematurely. That's like cutting cardboard with your nice sharp knife, it will dull the heck out of it in no time. Just some food for thought. You folks are really doing a great job on your place and I hope you have the best outcome and many years of joy and happiness now and when you're done!
I know this is probably dated but if you pre-drill the sills with a regular bit, it will make running that concrete bit a whole lot easier and it saves on burning the bit. It seems like more work but when you are on the wall trying to force a bit through wood that is
made for concrete, rock, and stone you save a lot of forcing them through wood.
When you use the hammer drill don't put you weight on it, put a little pressure and let it work in its own.
Hey guys, hope you'll read this one
Jesse, please don't put any pressure on the handle when drilling. it's only there to prevent turning of the machine when a bit get stuck.
if you do put pressure on the handle when drilling with a smaller bit your probably bent your bit or snap it.
probably the reason why most pro's leave that handle
Hope this makes sense to you, and in doubt check your own footage when drilling, you'll see the bending even on that big bit
Peace, and good luck with the build
Benchmade Osborne 940 is the best knife I've ever used. Carry it with me everyday.
The best EDC pocket knife is the Benchmade OSBORN 940, period, IMO. MSRP at $215.00 but you can find it for $185.00 if you look around. And it's made right here in the great Northwest, in Oregon City, Oregon. I've been carrying mine for six years and it has performed great, is an easy carry and I feel naked without it on my person. Free lifetime sharpening and repairs, also.
You will not be disappointed.
Please let the drill to the work!! You don't have to push that hard, so the drill bit is bending like in the video.
I felt pity with the tool. You won’t be faster when pushing hard, even slower, because the hammer is not able to work the right way.
Just hold the Hammer-Drill in place and save your sweat.
btw love your channel. Your explanations on building your home - even on your mistakes!
Greetings from Austria.
Sadly they don't seem to read these comments.
HEY! VERY IMPORTANT! While using the "Hammer-Funktion" don`t put any wight or force on the drill. The Hammer hasn`t enought space for ( sorry I don`t know the englisch word) but I mean "hammering" or going up and down. We made a drilling-race when we built our home and i was much faster than my neighbour without any work or sweating...
The drill needs space to jiggle... Graetings from Germany!
Sehr gut mine herr! Your English is much better than my Deutsche. Till has a very good point, you don't press down hard on the Rotary Hammer when it's in any form of hammering mode because the inertia of the moving parts does the work. That's why the "hammer drill" feature of those cordless drills aren't very good -- there's not much mass & only a few mm of movement -- very little inertia.
Indeed, let the tool do the work! You'll save drill bits too...
Used SDS drills for 20 years and can't imagine how life used to be. Have drilled many a 22mm hole in concrete with no problem. The only advice for long lasting bearings is, let the drill do the work. The percussive action of the drill will almost "pull" the bit in without any pushing and save you gallons of elbow grease. Another tip for drilling the deeper larger diameter holes, is to withdraw the bit a few times as the drill is running, which will keep the fine dust from collecting and grabbing the bit inside the whole. Good luck and thanks for the vids
RICHARD MCKINLAY agreed
You really can't beat the Spyderco Delica. It's available in serrated or plain blades in various sizes and handle materials. I've carried a 3" serrated blade with composite handle for 25 years now. The single thumb operation is about the best thing going. Not cheap but well worth the money.
WHAT!!!!!! your telling me the right tool for the job makes the job easier WTF MIND BLOWN!
Benchmade Osborne. Still going strong after all these years. EDC. They make some great American made knives.
Don't put so much pressure on the drill. You are working against the hammer action, just push enough to stop it from jumping around. When you put that much pressure on the drill it quickly overheats and gets dull. After a while you learn what it should sound like, it should be higher in pitch and you absolutely should use hearing protection.
Also that hammer drill has a what I think is called a ratchet coupling, so that if the drill gets stuck it wont start to rotate on you and break your arms. Also very handy for using large hole saws in wood where the hole saws easily binds.
You're wasting your time, they don't read the comments.
I don't comment on things, but you have inspired me to start working on my own home. I everyday carry the Leatherman skeletool. It has just what you need, knife, pliers, screwdriver, bottle opener. Fits great in the pocket, and isn't too big.
Hammer drill might not be the tool you need most often but when you do it's simply the only tool that'll do the job. There are many tasks you can complete by improvising with the wrong tools, but that's not the deal when drilling concrete. You need a hammer drill. I got lucky recently when our company did some warehouse cleanup and got rid of old(ish) corded tools and I received almost unused HILTI hammer drill with all the original bits and pieces plus the case. It's SO good. I could drill concrete all day.
@PLfL , you should NOT push on a sds drill but let the weight of the drill do the work , at most a few pounds of load.The hamer weight inside the drill needs to move forth and back against the sds drill and if you restrict that movement it will loose impact force, loosen up your grip.
Kershaw Skyline. Inexpensive, very durable, light, compact, & deploys easily and quickly.
headchange4u I also have a Kershaw but mine is the Blur serrated. Great assisted opening.
Christopher Stewart yeah it love the assisted opening.
Speaking of easy open, any of the Kershaw with the Wave feature are super nice. Deploys when you pull it out of your pocket. Great when you need a knife quickly and have your hands full. I have a couple of different models and the Emmerson Wave feature works great on both of them.
Benchmade 940 or 943. Absolutely love it.
You can get them for about $150 nee, I got 2 that looked completely unused for 120 each on eBay.
Ka-Bar Dozier Folding Hunter - Have had my first one for something like 18 years, still holds an edge and is my everyday carry. Single-handed opening with a thumb stud and a lock back blade, what I consider an essential feature for any working blade. Less than $30 from the manufacturer.
i've carried a buck model 110 for 35 yrs and it never has let me down
Hey man, you are pushing WAAAAY too hard on the front grip. You see in the video how your stop pin and not aligned with the bit? That means your flexing the bit and basically curving it. The pressure for drilling should come with your other hand that is in-line with the bit, and use the grip as a stabilizer. Just a helpful tip from my cousin who owns a concrete company
That moment of disappointment when you realise it's a tool video and not the pour day vid! :( But it's great that you finally got a SDS drill! Will make life so much easier!
If you don't think a hammer drill is loud, wait until you drill inside of a home. Make sure the pets have ear protection!
I carry and use a pocket knife every day. I have not gone a single day (unless I am flying) without my pocket knife in my pocket for over 25 years. In the last 15 years have carried only two pocket knives. Both are the same design, but three different manufactures have produced them. It is called a Lev-r-lok knife made by Soque River (the one I currently carry going on 5 years). They sold the design to Camillus (one I used to carry for 10 years and still have it, blade was getting smaller from sharpening.) I believe ACME is now making the same design, but I haven't tried theirs. Zero issues with either knife even with heavy daily use. Holds a descent edge and didn't cost me huge $. Easy one handed opening.
Perfect pocket knife that Jesse is qualified/capable of using is called a" Butter Knife", nothing more or he could hurt himself!
Let the weight of the hammer do the work, no need to work harder then you have to. Also put a dab of lube on the shank of the bit every time you put it into the sds chuck. it helps with jamming and getting the bit stuck in there.
Good luck and best wishes on your journey!
Next video: "DON'T TAKE A BATH until you see THIS VIDEO!"
Summary: In this 20 minute-video, Jesse explains how he has discovered that using hot water makes the whole bathing experience so much better!
:-P
Tip from an observer. Let the drill do the work. So much pressure is not necessary. Bending the bit. Will overheat tip.
The Kershaw Chive (made in USA) is the best small pocket knife I have had. It's not too expensive, has single handed spring assisted opening, has a lock to keep it from opening (can be deactivated), and is a liner lock for single handed closure.
Basically find a USA made Kershaw (not from Walmart) and pick the one that fits you.
Benchmade was the best knife I've ever owned. I carried one through two tours in Iraq and it never let me down.
Don't push down on SDS drills - it limits the travel of the drill bit, just let the machine do the work for you and it will drill faster.
Another "how not to" video. A hammer drill works better when you not push it with all your weight/strength. It will brake your bit much sooner as it will bend and then snap. Let the tool do the work! If i see it right then that is a 5" diamond disk, and the grinder is a 4". It will fit but it will not be safe.
Okey, step 1: don't push on the machine when drilling in concrete, you only need to put as much pressure on the machine so the hammer function is activated, then you'll just let the drillingbit do the work
Step 2: do step1 ;)
Alyssa sounds super excited to finally have some proper grinding and drilling going on
Milwaukee Fastback Compact Flip. I can't live without mine. I've used it for carpet, drywall and everything else! You can buy 100 blades and always have a really sharp blade at hand, and they are fairly cheap. So when you have to toss it because you forgot to take it out of your pocket at the airport, our you drop it in concrete, or you leave it on top of a grain silo. I've done them all and I just go grab a new one from the local big box.
Buy an SDS chuck and you can throw anything else you have in that hammer drill. INCLUDING paddle bits for mixing paint, concrete, stucco, plaster. I use mine for everything heavy duty.
STOP PUSHING HARD ON THE DRILL!! Only push hard enough for a consistent hammering action. As soon as your rotation slows (even a little bit) down clear the hole by pulling out the bit while running.The cleaner the hole the easier it is to drill. Let the drill do the work you should not be straining in any way. I have drilled probably more than 100,000 holes in my career. The drill will do all the work. I love the channel and what your doing. Didnt mean to yell ;)
I agree, he's pushing so hard by using the side handle that he's actually bending that SDS bit.
I have a Benchmade mini griptilian, this is the size knife you are looking for. Awesome one handed operation. If you want a larger knife the 940 Osborne is the way to go.
You do know we haven't seen the pour yet. lol
Joe Worden I was thinking the same thing at the start of the video.
I love you guys. You are blessed with boundless energy and have super momentum. I have carried my Case Sod Buster knife for 42 years, my suggestion for you. Also, I have had my Milwaukee SDS hammer drill for 27 years and I still use it for drilling any masonry job.
My son gave me a Kershaw Rexford pocket knife for my birthday over a year ago. It is the best knife I have ever owned and love it. Fantastic stainless blade and holds an edge almost forever. Only need to do a touch up. I've misplaced it a couple of times and felt I had lost a friend. It's 3" blade and compact size and light weight make it ideal for the pocket. It is very pretty, too! I would highly recommend this knife.
Dont push so hard on a rotary hammer. The hammer action is supposed to do the work. Not you. It wont go faster and it puts alot of stress on the bit and tool. Just push enough to engage the rotary action :)
Karl Svensson about to say the same.
Worked for 42 years building power tools like this one. It appears you are applying a lot of pressure on the tool. This will wear out the tool prematurely. Only light pressure is needed to hold the drill in position, the drill will do the work on its own 😉👍
Don't press down on the bit, it will overheat, let the hammer action do the work.
This is important.
He is pressing so hard on the stabilizing handle you can see the bit bend!!!
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong but, in my experience, drilling a wood plate with a concrete drill bit is a real pain. A typical 1 1/2" plate wouldn't be a big deal, but 3" is a lot. You may consider pre-drilling your 3" plates with a wood bit, then come back with the concrete bit to finish your holes. Just a thought. Love the videos.
I am a gunsmith in the central Ohio area. One of my specialties is knife sharpening. I think the spyderco paramilitary 2 or 3 is one of the best knives out there.
Don’t push so hard mate, can see how you are bending the drill bit, let the drill bit do it’s job
came here to say this. glad i wasnt the only one to see that.
(Very minor point) you don’t have to retract the collar on an sds to insert a bit. Only to eject after use. For insert, it should slide right in with a satisfying click.
So you basically bought the right tool for the job! ;)
The knife is very personal to your needs and way of using it.
My first choice would be a Gerber Gator. Used this extensively during the three years I built large capacity industrial freezers. Everyone wanted it, so I bought 7 or 8 of them (all but mine disappeared!). Sturdy, lies good in your hand, one hand to flip up and folds nicely to fit your pocket. Easy to keep sharp. Still look it up in my old tool cabinet when revisiting the work shop.
My second choice would be the good old Mora knife. Inexpensive, takes abuse, good handle but you need sheath when storing/holstering it. Also easy to keep sharp.
Good luck.
Honestly my favorite pocket knife is the "Milwaukee FASTBACK Compact Flip Utility Knife". Yes it uses a razor blade so it's a utility knife, but it's very compact, the fastback flip motion makes it extremely easy to open and close with one hand, and it's super inexpensive so I keep several around my house / shop. Can't beat it!
In Germany we use the Rotary Hammers with SDS and SDS-Plus since the 1980s. I mostly used Maktia , AEG or Bosch , but for my private use i bought a cheap Rotary Hammer for around 40 Bucks and it does its work for more than 10 years now.... :-)
You'll be amazed how much easier drilling concrete is with a little water. I keep a cup of water next to me and dip the drill bit in every so often. It keeps the bit cooler and the water also acts as a lubricant in the hole being drilled. This is particularly helpful when drilling concrete that is old, like 30+ years old. Concrete continues to cure for years after it is poured.
One key thing aboute drilling is to not lean your body weight/force the drill into lets say the concrete.. Let the machine do the work for you. You will notice that it goes alot smoother and both the drill and machine will last longer :)
1 kg pressure should do the work drilling in concrete horizontal and the machineweight vertically
Diddiffs grahm bh
It’s like this guy got out of the cubicle an said I’m going to build a house....
I've had a CRKT M16-01Z for a number of years and I really like it, nice and sturdy blade, one-handed opening and closing, very positive lock when open. And it's nice and slim to carry with you.
There's a lot of knife comments and while I'll throw out my suggestion (Kershaw Link for $40ish, or $80ish with a MUCH better steel and a great deal for American made)- I wanted to mention something you may not have noted with the rotohammer. Makita sells a grease which you should apply to the bit before you insert it into the tool. The grease is meant to help prevent the bits from locking up inside the tool and it also helps prevent dirt/concrete dust from getting where it shouldn't. If you don't use the grease, it's going to definitely shorten the lifespan of the quick change chuck. And as some have mentioned- push on the tool a little less. Those tools are amazing though. I haven't used the hammer mode on my drills in the last 4 years after getting SDS and SDS Max rotohammer
The ear muffs make him look so intelligent. They are to keep dust off your neck, right. He drills without them on his ears.
A little tip when you lose your depth guide and if you use a lot you will most likely lol. I use tape on the bit.
As a guy looking to become an electrician one of my major expenses will be tools - good tools. Guys like you who go hand on with all this stuff, are so much help to guys like us who don't necessarily know where to start when going from home use to industrial/commercial use and dont want to waste hundreds on the wrong option. Serious appreciation for all these reviews and advice.
Best Knife - I love my CRKT model M-16-01KZ. Light, positive locking, one hand operation. Holds an amazing edge. The clip works great as well. I have never owned a better pocket knife
Leatherman Skeletool CX, best ever, super sharp carbon heavy blade, has pliers and a simple flat/phillips and a built in clip so it clips to shorts, pants, belt etc. I carry it every day and it's super easy and sleek, small but capable. I've done everything from stripping wire, to unboxing, to cutting cardboard, etc. etc. etc.
The statement I wasn't going to run out and buy a drill just to do that job, doesn't make sense to me. Its a tool that will be used over and over, the money spent on just drill bits had to add up. Would have sped up the original job by a HUGE amount getting you back on track and not have to work with headlamps to finish. To this end with all the late night you do work why not go out and purchase some really good floodlights.
"Hammer drill has a 'ratcheting' effect"
Nope.
That would be an impact driver.
A hammer drill can be conceptually simulated by twisting a drill bit between your fingers while pounding on the back end with a hammer. (Look up "star drill").
An Impact driver, on the other hand, can be graphically simulated by somehow clicking a Phillips bit into a mechanic's ratchet handle, then tapping the side of the ratchet handle so it turns the screw.
"has a ratcheting sound"
i like watching your videos and following you guys but for the love of god do not give advice in something you barely understand yourselves, the click baitey titles dont suit you guys either
Ive been using the Buck 327 Nobleman for a year or so now and I love it. Takes an edge well, and its very easy to pull out of the pocket and open quickly. Especially nice with the strong pocket clip.
Milwaukie Hardline Flipper. model 48-22-1994 3" D2 tool steel blade, ball bearing pivot, frame lock flipper blade pocket clip knife.
So easy to flip open, use, then unlock and fold shut, and hang back in your pocket on its' clip all with using just one hand without even looking at it!! I love mine. The thick meaty blade really holds its' edge, too.
So long as you have an SDS Drill Tool, you should pick up some chisels, punches, and an "SDS Bushing Tool"
These all work without spinning, just hammering like a little jack hammer! Save your nice SDS drill bits for drilling holes.
Save the wear and tear on your SDS drill bit, and use the Bushing Tool in that drill for cleaning out those beam pockets!
have the smaller SDS Makita hammer drill which I bought to help repair a cement wall my father and grandfather put in as a retaining wall, when I was a kid. I was chiselling by hand and decide to buy one. As I started learning to use it and the old cement started coming out, quicker than I anticipated, I got a little concerned on just how big this job was going to turn into but it cut the time it would of taken if I had done it all by hand. Also I was happier that
I didn't have to worry about missing the chisel and whacking my left hand instead. I would buy another Makita in a heartbeat if necessary
Don't push too hard on the handle on the side or you'll end up bending the drill bit and could break it. See 13:51 for an example of doing that.
The side handle is for what was mentioned in the beginning - stabilization and stopping the drill from spinning when it starts to get stuck. You should apply the pressure in line with the drill bit - at the top handle.
Only push on the hammer drill hard enough to keep it hammering, if you push to hard you deminish the hammering ability...let the tool do the work..
Benchmade mini griptilian ! I've owned it for years and it keep on trucking and the customer service is great. you can send it in for free sharpening any time. 10 out if 10
I would go for a Leatherman Wave. The blade opens with one finger. I have had mine since 2003 and carry it with me every day. It is like having a Toolbox in your pocket and I just love it. Greetings from Just outside Berlin' Germany! Jacques
First of all --It is a Roto-Hammer NOT A DRILL ! Sligtht pressure and keep pulling back to clear the "Fines" out of the hole---Let it work at its own pace
DON'T lean on this tool, just hold it against the concrete and let the machine do the work, you are bending the drill with the pressure you are applying. !!!!!!!!
Wow im so glad i didnt drill concrete before i watched you blather on for 22 min about nothing. Im actually surprised i made it through the whole video
I have carried a Benchmade griptilion for years, and recently someone gave me a Kershaw that holds screwdriver tips and a screwdriver. I love it as well.
I really like my kershaw, liner lock, opening stud. We told you SDS... Like Eric has, I've had Bosch rotary hammers like his. Love them.
The left hand handle isn't for leverage, it's to keep it from spinning and breaking your wrist if the bit catches something and binds up.
Wait... what? You have a slab now? Did I miss a video somewhere?
Ease off the bit man, let the tool do the work. I would just let the weight of the hammer push the bit in. I could totally see your bit bending. Also, imagine trying to chisle a rock with someone pushing on the back of the hammer so you cant swing it back. rotary hammers works by hammering, not drilling like a drill bit into wood. The main purpose of the rotation is to remove the debris
A good accessory for the hammer drill is a : SDS+ Ground Rod Driver 5/8 Inch Diameter
Benchmade 556. Indestructible. Light awesome. Have carried it for 3 years.
Maybe you should read through the comments on your videos. Some of us give you feedback that could save you time and headache in the long run.
Also helps to pull the bit out / up to toss off pulverized dust every few seconds
Don't push so hard on the drill; the entire thing is flexing. just let the weight of the machine and the drill/hammer do its work. Pushing it just makes it all croocked
SDS capable hammer drills will rock your concrete drilling world!!
so glad you wised up to an SDS drill and i would get a Leatherman WAVE had one for over 15 years good steel good guarantee
no need to push on drill that hard just let the drill work for you
great that you have the new tool, but please use it correctly! Stop pushing so hard and let the tool do the work, and stop using the side handle as something to push on! It looked like you were about to snap the long bit with the sideforce you were putting on it.
Wow, 1718 comments, don't imagine you read them all. I was waiting to see the floor get poured, didn't you record that. I feel like I missed an episode. (not expecting an individual response)
When it comes to pocket knives, i would suggest the following.
- Bench made
- If they last you a long time, and you don't loose them often, spend some good money on it
- Easy to sharpen your self
- If it has a belt clip, it needs to be detachable
- Not to thin, to make it more robust so you can pry with it
- In a bright colour so it is easy to spot
- No lanyard, just gets in the way and takes up space in you pocket
- Buy it in a shop if possible, so you can touch and feel it before you buy, your hands and preferences are not the same as mine. Also will be easier with the guarantee
- very strong mechanism for opening, this should come with a higher price any how, so it does not become flimsy or rattle after use
I know this is not a suggestion on a specific knife, but there are to many good knifes out there, and especially if you buy it in a shop they might not carry the brand that I prefer.
For just a pocket knife, I use a Spiderco, easy to open, clip can be point up or down, right or left handed. Blade smooth, serrated or both. As cheap as $25.
For a pocket tool, I use a leatherman skeletool, as it is light and has what I really need.