How to use USB Power for things other than charging
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- Опубліковано 17 гру 2022
- How to use USB Power for things other than charging
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In this video I am looking at how USB power can be used to power other devices beyond the basics of charging things. There are many ways to accomplish this but I went with a simple easy method that anyone can do.
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Number 119 - Наука та технологія
You're like the lockpicking lawyer but for electricity
Thank you! That is great stuff.
Glad you mentioned PPS. Not has common but would hit all the needs. You can also get programmable cables to have flexibility. Now just get an inline USB C UPS and you will have a killer setup. You can get cheap DC "router UPS" that would also work and are more common. Loveing the content. You are doing what I had always wanted to do.
Yeah, the options have exploded for powering things and it is great. I will need to look into some of the battery backup options.
Definitely a good use case and demonstration of how you can do things a little different.
Thanks. Yeah, it is after all, only that, a demonstration.
Awesome, i was considering this in the past. I had no idea those adapters are so easy to find and at a reasonably low cost
Yeah, it was surprisingly easy to pull this off. Solder free, plug and play. Still using this setup today and it just works.
I've been looking into USB power for a travel ultrasonic cleaner (for a dental retainer) and electric shaver, so this video is right up my alley. While both of the above use 12V power, zero of the USB-C power adapters I already own support 12V output. I'll need to get a new adapter, so here's a good opportunity for me to buy one that doesn't suck. Thanks!
It is quite useful having the multiple voltage output options, 12v became optional a while back and some totally dropped it while others kept it in.
Great video! Useful as always!
Thanks for watching!
I've had USB-A to barrel plug connectors before and it also worked despite the lack of proper power delivery but it really depends on what's powering and what's being powered. It's good to know that there are USB-C versions out there now that do PD and proper power negotiation too!
I was able to run a router for quite a while with that USB-A connector in the past with a powerbrick, so yeah, this stuff is useful for that use case too besides getting rid of the stock adapters that take too much socket space and efficiency.
The reason USBA works despite Power Delivery protocol or special trigger plugs is because USBC, unlike USBA, does not maintain 5V on VBUS until cc lines have communicated sinkcap and srccap and identified which device will act as source or sink. USBA maintains 5V on VBUS at all times and is a one way connection.
Under USBC Specification Revision 2.2
2.3.1
Initially, Source-to-Sink attach is detected by a host or hub port (Source) when one of the CC
pins at its USB Type-C receptacle senses a specified resistance to GND. Subsequently,
Source-to-Sink detach is detected when the CC pin that was terminated at its USB Type-C
receptacle is no longer terminated to GND.
Power is not applied to the USB Type-C host or hub receptacle (VBUS or VCONN) until the
Source detects the presence of an attached device (Sink) port. When a Source-to-Sink attach
is detected, the Source is expected to enable power to the receptacle and proceed to normal
USB operation with the attached device. When a Source-to-Sink detach is detected, the port
sourcing VBUS removes power.
No power is sent to VBUS until a negotiation along CC lines has occurred in USBC, requiring the use of a PD Trigger in a USBC to Barrel cable/adapter. In USBA, you have 5V live on VBUS at all times allowing for easier use of passive USBA to Barrel Cables where you simply terminate D+ and D- and take your VBUS +/- connectors and connect them to their respective contacts in a barrel connector.
Thank you for the detailed comment!!
Trying to make this solution functional for a handful of raspberry pis and monitors at work, your channel has been incredibly helpful
Thanks! Yeah, it can be tricky to keep them all powered with usb.
@@AllThingsOnePlace It's even trickier trying to figure out who the actual manufacturer of a unit is, I have a headache.
Would love to hear your thoughts on the Satechi 108W 3-port USB-C charger. I like that they forwent USB-A ports for 3 USB-C ports on that model (I don't really have any USB-A cables anymore). Thanks for the informative (beyond my head most of the time haha) content!
haha, yeah, I need to dial this in and explain things better to grow the channel more. Thank you very much for watching and for the suggestion!
I didn't think such cables were around! I always thought I had to go through a cumbersome negotiation board to get the desired output. I guess that for lower power laptops it could be great too.
Are going to review more power banks in the future? I bought one from Baseus but it's not negotiating correctly with my phone for some reason (works fine with other devices and laptops).
Yeah, putting this together was easier than I thought. I was kind of surprised at how plug and play it all was. Yes, I need to do a lot more power banks!
I keep forgetting how stupidly little the ICs can be and how they can fit in a USB strain releif no problem.
Nice! I'll be here for new roundup on powerbanks. Hoping to find the review of one with PPS modes and good QC 3.0 compatibility.
I bought a USB-C to Dell barrel adapter for my Dell 7530 laptop about a year ago. It works well with the Bauseus GAN 100W that you reviewed. It charges at 65W. The original adapter is a 180W brick monster.
Nice! Thanks for sharing. Yeah I’d imagine running out of power if the machine was really using 180w but if it’s working that’s great.
@@AllThingsOnePlace laptops I've used in the past will draw from the battery when using an undersized power adapter. This is fine for basically anything other than perpetual max load.
@@frp1276 As far as I understand, your max boost wattage will be sevearly limited (and so laptop will be a bit slower) and constant topping up of the battery will wear then down. Although sounds like it works perfectly for your use case so no stress. Just thought I'd include some extra info incase it's handy
@@caidelander2561 setting the charge threshold is very useful. My laptop doesn't charge until it's below 50% SoC and it stops at 85% regardless of how often it gets plugged in. I go for months without increasing the SoC
You should make a video on what is the difference between pps vs pd 💖
That sounds like a great topic for a short. Thanks for the suggestion.
I use the trigger cables (mostly the 20V variety) to test 100W power bank modules on my DL24 through the DC barrel input. Yeah I know the DL24 has a USB C port right next to it but the barrel plug is easy to use with some of the other random projects I’ve already installed a DC jack in. I sometimes use the USB C to USB C and USB A trigger boards that have a + and - button with 5 LEDs for 5V 9V 12V 15V and 20V. There’s also some ways you can hold and release a combination of the two buttons when powering up the board but it’s too much to keep track of. I just leave the boards “unlocked” so I can hit the buttons to change the voltage. I also have a few ZY12PDN’s…that I only bought because the LED in the cycle mode is really pretty if your adapter has all the voltages. Again, a lot to remember in terms of user interface.
I just put out a review video of all the modules I’ve tried to help people save money since there are so many POS modules out there that fail past 3.5A on the 20V PDO. If that’s your thing go check it out and maybe I’ll save you $20 if you were thinking about buying an IP5389 based module to power something with 100W. I love me some USB PD but can’t stand shitty sellers on Aliexpress. Some know they are selling garbage and some don’t even know why the product theyre selling doesn’t meet the listed spec.
Yep, that is one of the problems I have seen. A lot of bad mixed in with a few good items. But yeah, I've got a few that only do 60W and a few that are rated for the full 100W. Thanks for sharing your uses for these adapters.
i freaking love this
Thank you!
This is a great topic and a great video. An interesting addition I can make is that the Belkin BoostCharge Pro 4-Port GaN Charger 108W does not drop power from connected devices when it is re-negotiating due to devices being plugged/unplugged. It's a completely supported part of the USB PD specification that is ignored by most manufacturers. For example the only GaN charger apple has certified is this belkin for this very reason. It is a great option for things that cannot drop power such as routers or record players. A video on that adapter or a follow up on this topic using that adapter would be great. I believe it to be the only GaN on the market that does this.
Thanks for the suggestion. I might even have that one here... I tested one that didn't renegotiate on plug but it did as soon as you tried to draw power. I will have to check out how the Belkin goes this.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Do you remember what one that was out of curiosity?
@@benperkins2929 I can't remember. If I do I'll try to mention it in a future video.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Annoyingly, the Belkin doesn't have 12v output :( but I can confirm the power doesn't drop when another device is plugged in
cool project. this is the real beauty of usbc. imagine how much less electronic waste if everything didnt need to be shipped with a special power adapter and you could just use usb-c. old devices you could junk and reuse the adaptor. then it makes sense to invest in gan/better built adaptors which would help the grid reduce costs
Yeah, that's the end idea here, it is less efficient than a barrel plug and the requirement for negotiation can get complicated, but yeah, if a device is 5V, the negotiation is less troublesome, you can get up to 15W, that's enough to power a set top box or most consumer routers I'd hope.
Could you review the ugreen 100w Europe edition with a extra outled on the brick itself?, you could check if that outlet had any impact on the power/noice
I want to! I need to get a bunch of European adapters in. So many adapters so little time.
I have powered a lot of 5v network switches on usb power. If the power draw is under 1 amp at 5v, you should be fine doing it with just a usb a port to barrel adapter.
Yeah, these devices always put out 5V so great application.
hey there, first of all, thanks for the video and all the effort!. its good to think about efficiency.But if you save 1$ each year and the anker costs about 16$ so it could mean that you will just get the costs back after 16years. I know that you can also use the USB power adapter for other gadgets which might be practicable for the future. but if we think simple that it sounds like it would not be worth it? But thanks for pointing that topic out. I really need to think if it would be effordable in my appartment.
Yeah, the point here is simplifying, I also used too expensive of cables, not the best power adapter replacement. The manufacturer could've supplied a better adapter to begin with or even none if you don't need it. I used relatively low power devices and also didn't consider some of the losses from the bad power quality of the smaller adapters. It is really hard to find anyone who has quantified this data. I also was trying to reduce noise from the AC power supplies, which was accomplished. Also, that cost is already out of date with energy costs as of late. In Germany it is quadruple that dollar (euro) per year for normal electricity costs now. It does save a significant portion, 5%+ energy savings, of kWh but the fact is electricity is still cheap most places. I need to make a follow up to this getting more in depth on the economics of electricity and when it really starts to make a difference.
awesome videos you, I am big fan!
quick question. I bought from amazon an adapter USB-C PD to 5.5 2.5mm for my mini PC which requires 12v.
On the amazon description it mentioned 12V and 18-20V. To my shock when the adapter arrived, it just said up to 100W 18-20 v. Will I damage my mini pc if i use this adapter? thank you
Yeah, if the mini PC needs 12V you have to get a trigger cable that specifically outputs 12V. 12 - 20 is too large of a jump to say it will be compatible. Also, you may find it hard to find a good USB adapter for that since many mini PC's need more than what USB will supply at 12V, which is typically limited to 3 amps. So, hopefully it is a lower powered system also.
That was very interesting. I was wondering 💭 what about powering mini itx PCs, I read about pico psu and plex powered trough laptop bricks and c13 (3-pin connector). Let’s say we intended to build an AMD APU with 1 ssd or NVMe M2 drive and 16gb ram.
Do you think that USB C will be stable and efficient?
The loss on USB C is very dependent on cable but mostly you will probably be at 10-20 watts with an AMD APU so powering from USB C should be fine, actually a bunch of the mini-PC's out now offer that capability. You can actually gain versus some barrel plugs since the barrel plug designs may have a thin and long cable which is lossy, versus you can use a very short USB C cable.
The trick is you probably have to use a single port device or only one of the ports of a multiport device to keep it stable otherwise you will get the renegotiation show, you're PC won't appreciate that. It wouldn't take much energy could build a little hold-up box to keep the power delivered to the computer for a few seconds while that happens to make it stable and work with mutli-port USB C adapters.
I picked up some Dell USB C power adapters for $2 each on Amazon and a bunch of USB C to barrel adapters. They are very compact and actually have removable plugs on them. So much better than holding onto a tote with about 50 adapters in it just in case I find the devices they go with.
I run half of my network rack off of them now, from switches to mini PCs and 5 Lenovo Tiny PCs.
So much better than huge wall warts taking up 2 plugs or even the cost of 6" extension cables.
My next project is to run all those devices off of 1 old ATX power supply.
That sounds like a great project. Great way to get use out of those power adapters, the laptops last a few years and the bricks last 10 and, as I've tested on the channel, the Dell power adapters are actually quite good.
I did a similar project a bunch of years ago now with a PC power supply to power 10 external DVD drives, USB hub, and SATA to USB converters, rip station on the cheap...
@AllThingsOnePlace I was really surprised when I got them in and put them on the oscope. They work great on the Raspberry Pi, external monitor, pretty much anything I throw at them. I even tossed a few keystone USB C passthroughs on the front of the rack so I can plug my phone, tablet, laptop, or anything I need to charge in my office into them. I ended up going with usb c to barrel adapters so I can use those magnetic usb c cables since all the usb plugs of the past always end up shorting out the port on the device over time. I swear those things were designed to break.
Sample use cases are, Routers, cctv, Monitors, TVboxes, Mini PCs, Projectors.
Yeah, any power adapters you want to consolidate.
Please do different powerstrips and surge protector test.
I can do some power strips with USB in them, really testing the USB adapter. I don't have surge protection test equipment that can also be destructive testing.
Any suggestions for using USB C to equipment that requires higher voltage, like 24-48V? I DIYd a 20V sink connected to an Aliexpress module that allowed me to increase the voltage, but it isn't very efficient.
Yeah, technically, USB will get there, which will be great. Working with 48 volts unlocks high efficiency PoE devices from USB bricks. Right now I didn't find anything. I am working on a similarly hacky project right now just to get by.
1:44 Have you tested the fancier ones that convert your USB PD power supply into a real bench power supply, with CV and CC modes?
I haven't yet. But it is a good idea! You've been on quite the binge of videos, haha. I forgot some of these even existed.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I have. And since you patiently respond to comments, I'm enticed to keep going....
Do you have any suggestions for powering Raspberry Pi clusters? I have a 8 node cluster consisting of a combination of RP3 and RP4 boards. It has always been a pain powering these with their default AC adapters, which takes too many sockets on power strips. I would love to be able to replace all of those connections with a single adapter.
The documentation indicates that the RP3 requires 5.1V at 2.5A, while the RP4 requires 5.1V at 3.0A. Would USB 5.0V be sufficient? Also, the RP3 does not support PD, while the newer RP4 boards do. (Note: there was a PD bug with the initial RP4 release.) As I understand it, as long as the voltage is constant, a device will only draw as much amps as necessary. Does this sound right? Please let me know if I am missing anything. Now if I could only find a 8 port USB adapter...
First, nice project! You are correct that the supplied power adapters get difficult to work with. For something like the raspberry pi I would recommend something like a power factor corrected DC power supply, (mean well modules can be found for example) then wire to each pi at 5V for the easiest and nearly most efficient configuration. It would require a little tinkering. Basically make an octopus power supply. I know the Pi can be PoE powered too to make the wiring much neater but it is marginally less efficient.
In terms of using PD, as the voltage increases the current will decrease. This can be a little more efficient. It would require a many port USB adapter, as each has to negotiate individually. It doesn't need a lot of total power though. I want to make something that can distribute the power from a higher voltage/current USB port to lots of devices. For example, 8x15W ports out of a 140W adapter sounds perfect. It'd still have enough to power a network switch.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thank you for the detailed response. I checked the Mean Well website and the RS-15-5 looks compact enough and ideal for my environment. However, it is non-PFC. Could you explain more about PFC and why it is desirable? Also, looking at the datasheet, it seems to only have five sockets. Can these somehow be split / doubled, or would two of these supplies be necessary to power eight nodes? Another issue is my cluster is a simple stack tower and not enclosed. I am a little concerned with exposed bare wires. Could one end of the USB cable be cut to attach to the PSU while connecting the other end as normal to the RP? I note that only the USB power connector has surge protection, while the GPIO pins do not; this is another reason I would favor the USB power connector if possible.
Then again, the USB adapter seems to be the simpliest. Your reviews on the Anker 737 (120W) and uGreen (200W) adapters make these appealing. However, not enough ports. Will probably need to look around a little more.
@@bendono Yeah, that is only a 15W supply so that might not work. It is also an open frame supply so that might be tricky too (more difficult to do the wiring and without an enclosure shouldn't be used). Anyway, yes, the framed power supplies you can connect multiple wires to each output. In the case of the open frame power supply you were looking at only two terminals are the output. The other three are the mains input wires. So, Earth, Line, Neutral. If the power is low enough PFC doesn't matter, but for 8 pi's it starts to matter. But yeah, I 100% agree if you aren't comfortable with the wiring then this isn't the solution.
For plug and play options, I would think going with the PoE Hat for each pi is the easiest way to go and get a PoE switch that can handle the 100 or so watts.
Is it okay to use a cable that has a 20v pd trigger inside on a Samsung laptop who requires 19v? I bought a cable (usb-c to barrel jack) that is supposed to be 19v, but measuring it I could see that it's actually 20v
Yeah, I've been doing that with my HP laptop for a while now. No issues. There is a tolerance of voltage of course manufacturers don't want to tell people that and every device is different so there is some risk without finding some fine details. I just plugged it in with my laptop and checked for any weirdness made sure it indicated charging then never looked back. I'd check around the internet to see if anyone else has done it and had success with your device.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks!
I'd like to know if these adapters can do multiple voltages at the same time if multiple devices are connected at the same time.
I can only find info about wattage
They can, within the limits of the PD specification and the adapter capabilities. In this case with a 200W budget you can get 5, 9, 12, 15, or 20V on each of the USB C ports. Each can be a different voltage. Remember that within the same charger, plugs and unplugs of devices will potentially cause resets of all the other ports. The USB A ports, depending on number of ports used can also go up to higher voltages with QC modes. The PPS mode, if you have a device repeatedly capable of asking for that can get other voltages on some of the USB C ports. Not all of them support all the modes.
Would you recommend powering the Synology NAS (12V with 5,5mm round plug) and internet router (12V too) with USB power? (one USB-C power supply with 2 USB-C outputs, one for NAS, the second for the router). I will have to buy it including the USB-C to 12V cables, so I don't know if the investment return makes sense. But these two devices are plugged in all the time.
Yeah, so, you would have to assess based on long term usage of power. Is this adapter going to offset that much cost? If the total power used is 30-40 watts, then probably not. If you get up to 100 - 200 watts then it really makes sense to switch everything over. I have a bunch of stuff so switching over to DC makes sense, I still haven't done it yet though. It would be nice if they sold products with the option of a little less cost and no power adapter.
What was that adjustable power module at 1:50? Is it sold premade or is it a diy kit? Any sources?
Hello, I attached a couple links below, non-affiliate and affiliate for Amazon, I'm sure it's on eBay or Ali-express too. The affiliate link earns me a few percent if you use it to make your purchase (it doesn't cost you more). I use that supply with a small battery all the time and it's pretty useful, I like the mostly enclosed design and the price for what you get. You have to assemble the plastic bits, but the module is all completed. I would never use it anywhere near what they 'rate' it for power.
Non-Affiliate Link:
www.amazon.com/DROK-5-5-30V-Adjustable-Regulator-Converter/dp/B07VNDGFT6
Affiliate Link:
amzn.to/4bFpify
Cool! Do you think a GaN charger could be used to power a mini pc? It has a 120W brick and I would get a 160w (able to output 140w on a single usb c) charger.
I doubt it will work as the PC won't be able to negotiate for 28V EPR or be able to handle that much voltage if you use a trigger board.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I see. Not even via a usb-c pd port? Thanks for the answer!
Now just get a UPS USB C battery bank and you got a killer setup. Any chance you will do a round up of battery banks that can act like UPS?
Yeah, it has been on the list for awhile. I need to do some research.
ZMI No.20 power bank seems popular for this.
Hi, can you possible review the item "Rocoren 100W GaN Charger 6 Ports Charging Station"?
Although it states 100W total, The highest wattage per port is only 30W.
The difference between this and other multiport chargers on the market is that plugging in and out devices on one port does not cause the other ports to reset.
hmmm, yeah, that's cool. I have some other adapters that function that way also here. Thank you for the suggestion!
@@AllThingsOnePlace Hope to see those that you already have on hand soon! That was the only model I could find at the moment
can we sum up the year and choose the top 5 best adapters? I think it would be interesting for everyone, thanks :)
It’s a good idea. I don’t know if I’ll be able to pull it off. I already moved out my next video. End of year visiting family and such. It might be 2022 summary / 2023 preview in one. Maybe first week January? I need to get more content out, my request list is 100s of items long but as or if the channel grows I’ll continue to put in more effort and hopefully start catching up. Thank you for the suggestion.
@@AllThingsOnePlace it would be cool, even in the first week of January) just wondering what you suggest as top 5 or top 10 adapters of the year :)
Cable Matters brand your thoughts? Thanks
I don't think I have any but I will certainly check them out! Thanks for the suggestion.
currently running my 54liter 12v frige with my gan power brick at 16.5v lol. seems to be working fine. ironic
Yeah. ‘12’ volt devices usually are tolerant up to a pretty reasonable voltage since cars can supply 14-15 volts when running on the 12v socket. 16 is pushing it but if it’s working.
Could we get some power strip/ stations review
Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi, im confused which one should i buy
Satechi 200w or ugreen 200w charger?
Please advise me
I think it’s kind of a toss up between those two. The satechi has the 140w mode if you need that.
@@AllThingsOnePlace ugreen also have 140watt charger
how about that brand corsulin from aliexpress ?
I have them in my list but I haven’t checked them out yet. It’s getting into the territory where detailed tear downs and a lot more complicated measurements are required to determine if they really are good or not.
How much is your new cable? How long does it take to recover the cost of it?
By a yearly savings it seems it would take decades to recoup the cost of the USB power adapter and cables. Overall, it proves that the PQS is pretty useless in the grand scheme of things. I wish the reviews would focus more on heat, efficiency, form factor, rather than useless metrics. The 200w brick being 83 degrees C is proof enough that random China adapters don't deserve a place in anyone's home.
Yes, you are correct for the setup in the video. This does provide about 5% of power savings but is that worth dollars at these low power levels, not really. I had an assumption of 3 hours per day and only included real power losses, longer term devices start to make more sense, also assuming relatively low electricity rate. My major reasoning behind changing over was saving a few power outlets and I could see the electrical noise in measurements. I fully agree on the hot power adapter, not made to last.
Thank you for cutting back on electrical power wasted as heat.
Long way to go ha.
I do see a good case against global warming here. Using less energy overall and also turning less electricity to heat would help if done on a big scale. However my main concert is, won't making these additional power adapters use more energy and emit heat by itself vs using the ones that people already have?
Yes, to some degree. This is a slight lean of we should probably get better or more useful adapters with products or even go the phone route of you get your own adapter (or have this option on products when we don't need another one) rather than these $5 cheap and less efficient adapters being mass shipped with everything.
It turns into a debate of recycling and unfortunately the system in the US is an absolute joke, we recycle almost nothing. It almost all goes into the landfill. Almost everything is not recyclable and you don't want to wish cycle. That guarantees it all goes in landfill or worse. So, from that perspective, it is hard to say buy anything ever. Use that old adapter until it breaks, then fix it. Energy consumption is a piece of the pie. So, I wouldn't say throw it out either, but if you consolidate you have to either find a use for the old adapter or find a way to actually recycle it. They won't take them at my recycling center. Systematically, it is not easy.
I'm looking for a power hub that only outputs 5V max and 3- 5A; Ideally 5V 5A 25ish Watts for eight ports.
They sell USB hubs with power that should meet that criteria.
Interesting video
Thanks for watching.
I am charging my Phillips Norelco grooming machine with type c. I bought a type c decoy board on aliexpress and bought another cable for my machine. I set the board to 15v output and soldered the cable to it. The machine takes about 0.3 amps at 15v so its really low.
Nice, that's pretty slow but also not charging a big battery. A more efficient adapter makes sense in that case like the Anker, and you can use it for other things too. Consolidate the travel kit.
@@AllThingsOnePlaceThis cable is indeed part of my traveling kit hahah but I actually use it daily too. I am charging from my Baseus 140w adapter or Ugreen 65w one.
I've got the same machine and I'd love to convert it to USB-C. Can you share links to the items you purchased and how you did it?
@@spiralshapestarship There are a few links in the description of the video (they are affiliate links). You can also search for USB C PD trigger cable to find there are tons of options out there.
@@spiralshapestarship For some reason I am getting my responses deleted... Buy a PD decoy board, make sure it is capable of delivering 15v (Verify on your machine that it takes in 15v, maybe you use a different model). Buy a usb to HQ8505 cable. HQ8505 is the Philiphs connector. Cut it on the USB side. Solder it to the board, make sure board is set to 15v. Insulate everything with shrinking tubes and you are good to go.
How can I build the DIY power adapter you showed
The little module? That is a premade buck-boost converter I picked up on ebay or amazon. It's an every changing market so those things appear and disappear in various forms all the time. Maybe search for buck boost converter with screen and case?
@@AllThingsOnePlace not that, the thing that looked like a Raspberry pi
@@AllThingsOnePlaceat around 1:45 into the video
@@steveslounge www.amazon.com/DROK-5-5-30V-Adjustable-Regulator-Converter/dp/B07VNDGFT6
give me the link of 'usb c to 8.4 v barrel dc cable'.
That is a tough one. I'd say closest you will get is a 9V PD trigger for reasonably low cost.
electricity is cheap? have you checked the energy prices in the EU lately?
I know... I make quick mention of that in a more recent video. Like 3-4 times the price, easily. It is starting to matter more and more. Even in the US, the rates are on the rise, thankfully it is a mild winter but people are still getting hit with $600 heating bills for one month here.
@@AllThingsOnePlace yeah. We also drive our cars and house heating with heatpumps here. My bill went from 50€ a month, to 450€ a month. Still beareable, but barely
This is a great idea -- except the adapters are $130-$200 plus $15 cords for each, and at 1$ saving per year, we're taking 200+ years to break even for 1 port, and maybe 50 years to break even if you fill each port up on an adapter (assuming those adapters can last 50 years, likely not). Not to mention more cables/waste for the environment. So I think it goes both ways.
The real solution is going to be for manufacturers to do this (PFC) out of the box and not rely on consumers to do go through this work to save a few bucks a year on electricity.
Yeah, the cost is no where near in it on this one, it is included for completeness though. I am also assuming 3 hours per day usage. If you were using this for router, modems, etc. or something on 24 hours a day these figures change quite a bit.
I could see the distortion from the power adapters on the AC line though in other measurements though so that's my primary reason for swapping, and gaining back some power outlets. I am saving about 5% on the electricity for this one thing but it's still pretty low. There is a point where it turns around where PFC makes sense and where it doesn't. 30W not so much. 65W there should at least be options. 100W makes a difference.
$15 cords? Where you shopping? I pay $3-7 for DC to USB C trigger cables.
@@ericklein5097 I clicked the links that ATOP posted.
anker newst generation dosent have 12v on usb c why?
The newest DOES have 12V they just don't put it in the user manuals.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Hi sorry if I bothered you but how do I know that it does support 12v. I've some 12v devices that I want to power via USB-c pd adapter(like the vid attached) how can I be sure that the adapter supports 12 v? ua-cam.com/video/sXO119vI-pg/v-deo.htmlsi=o80pyLSwKr2o_p5u
I think I'm missing something, how did the chip in the wire know that the device required 15W?
It doesn't. The light requires a specific amount of power and some voltage, as long as the voltage matches the device and enough power is available everything will work. The chip in the wire just picks the voltage not the power or current.
@@AllThingsOnePlace Thanks!
@@AllThingsOnePlace Ah, I had the same question. If time permits, would it be possible to share a couple more examples of cables you've aquired for this? I have a rats nest of "Power Splitter, Power Squid, 1 to 4 Splitter" cables to accommodate all the odly shapped power adapters that won't fit in my (almost) 30-year-old Monster power strip because some are wide or the prongs point the housing over other outlets. It's kind of funny to think I could get rid of all that pile under my media center. What would I do with all that space? Put DVD's in there?
@@bayardwoodworth7993 haha, yes store the DVD's forever. I have a couple bins of those I need to get rid of. I'm pretty sure I know what I would do with some extra space... More power adapters of course. I will keep updating. I plan to add them to the USB cables list too, I have a few in there but I need to add more.
i used the usb ports on a power strip for some neon lights but they eventually failed.
Any particular brand? Also, the word neon and USB sounds like it should break, with neon needing 100+ of volts and USB being generally low voltage.
Why don't you connect all the lights to a single USB C port with a DC splitter? One port has plenty enough wattage for all 3 and you wont have the negotiation issue
I did think about it, I wasn't sure the quality on the barrel plug splitters and this was a good way to demonstrate how USB does it's thing to figure out where to send power. Once it is on there is no issue. I probably will swap it out at some point since I want to add some more lights. I was also thinking how how you can get different voltages at once too, in my case they are all the same though.
Saving on replacing all the black bricks will pay back on buying a USB-C hub.
In this case, it is not about savings, yes I am saving about 5% electricity usage but that won't add up to much, it was more about cleaning up the noise on the AC line for me and using less outlets.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I wonder what my USB-C monitor does. It has a brick but also 65W PD for DP laptops.
8:30 You're saving power on your electric bill, yes. But you're also spending $100 on a USB adapter that required some resources to be manufactured, shipped, advertised etc.
The world would be better off if power supplies were more efficient but I'm not sure that would be the case if everyone had to buy one fancy power supply to replace three old ones going to the landfill.
Yeah, this was just a demo, it's not the end all solution by any means. I have some newer devices and the power supplies that come with these same type products now are far worse. No safety marks, lighter than air, and don't even meet the power ratings on the products. So, in those cases, you basically have to upgrade out of the box.
7:56 I thought I kinda understood what the cos φ (which you call cos 𝜃 in the US I believe?) is, why power companies don't like it and why they charge their industrial customers when it deviate too far from 1 but I'm not sure anymore. Why does a cos φ improvement leads to a 5% energy saving in your case? Have you considered making videos about the theory, explaining in greater depth what the metrics you measure are and what their impact is (with cost analysis like here)?
Yeah, working on a video and presentation for that, no idea if it'll ever see the light of day, but yeah, reactive power, in this case of the non-linear variety, which most people just don't talk about. The grid focuses on super large scale and the consumer standards strictly focus on one device and real power only. The in between picture is lost. It's got a lot to do with more than one device especially as more devices use switching power supplies and have higher current demand.
@@AllThingsOnePlace I hope you'll release that video!
If you have some USB power supplies with an inductive loads and in the same room some LED bulbs using a capacitive dropper...do they kinda cancel each other? Meaning you'd be better of with a USB power supply that doesn't correct its power factor?