Try running a boost line to your vent line on your gas cap. This will pressurize both sides of the fuel system equally allowing your electric pump to supply plenty of fuel.
That should actually work decently. I came to say he needs a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to up his fuel psi as boost rises. Not sure how much psi that pump is capable of making though so your idea would prob work better in this situation.
You were running that thing VERY lean, when the turbo starts to make boost it will keep fuel from flowing into the bowl of the carb, you will need a electric fuel pump with a boost referenced regulator that will add 1psi of fuel pressure for every 1psi of boost. This is the only way a blow try carb will work to my knowledge. Only other thing I noticed was the turbo oil drain might not be the best but it didn’t seem to be smoking much so I would worry about it right now. Awesome project! God bless
Exactly what I was going to say. Also the carb bowl needs to be pressurized as well. Or the boost going through the carb will try and escape through the carb over flow vents and render the jets useless Bc boost will back feeding through them.
Man, it’s cool how you are able to make videos and do projects like these. I hope these kinds of projects support you financially enough where you can easily slide by doing things like this for a living. Best of luck!
It is recommended to run a 1 step colder plug when introducing boost. You also need a boost referenced fuel system to add to same amount of fuel pressure as to boost.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 he could always use a megasquirt 2 v3.0 bowling and grippo code standalone ecu it will run anything from 1-12 cylinders, has a built in single coil driver and can run up to 12 injectors, built in map sensor he could configure a throttle positioning sensor and be able to tune alpha N. Hardest part would just be a crank trigger which I’m sure he could figure out. Download the free version of Tunerstudio and you can get a feel for what I am saying
@Dark One Yeah, there are a bunch of arduino based mini EFI things. It's involved but some would say worth it. Definitely a fun learning project. In the end you have a laptop-tuneable solution.
As a lot of guys told you; clock the bearing housing of your turbo right!. Take the turbo off the bike and loosen the bolts holding the center section (the bearing housing), and turn it so that the oil inlet is at the top. It is very important that the oil drain port (at the bottom), is large and non-restrictive otherwise, your engine will drink oil from the turbo. There are no oil seals in there, only labyrinth seals... At first, do not try to boost more then say, 8psi. remember that @ 15psi, you will double the horsepower, in a good tuned install...
Frfr a carb is harder to tune, your at a point its all tune. And check the afr screw bro!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just wanna get your attention yo. I gotta stage 2 cam on a 416cc, if it dont wanna pull up in 3ed you can do better bro, BTW I gotta 15 sproket in the front and 36 in the back so I gotta more of a top speed around 90ish and it still wanna pull up around 35 mph
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 for sure but he's on a carb set-up so it's never going to be as manageable as injection systems. On that type of set up the wideband would control the fuel itself. With a carb it's going to change every time he alters altitude or weather or ambient temp. It would make jetting easier for sure but I wouldn't want one without the added fuel mapping benefits from an ecu controlled system. Which I think is the smarter route for a turbo anyway especially in regards to boost cut-offs and oil pressure safety
I think figuring out a way to tune the timing will really improve this thing. I really didn’t expect it to even run this good on a blow through so way to go bud. Love it
With boost you have to pull timing like in a car you can hook up a computer and tune and change stuff but with a atv i just dont understand how it would work properly without a good tunable ignition system and it wasent made to handle boost you would have to stud the head to keep it from lifting and blowing gaskets
I noticed the carburetor has a rubber diaphragm throttle body needle, boost is keeping the needle from opening, remove the diaphragm or use a snowmobile carb.
You still need to get the oil in and out set up right. The oil inlet fitting needs to be vertical and the oil return pointing straight down. The compressor and turbine housings can be clocked so everything lines up. You just need to loosen the housings and rotate them so it all lines up.
@@KillerCamino When a turbo is clocked horizontal the oil will usually go by the exhaust turbine. The compressor seal is a much more positive seal than the turbine seal. He's getting there with it. You gotta start somewhere.
Hey man if you need a fuel pressure regulator that’s GUARANTEED to work on a carb setup look for a fuel pressure regulator from a Yamaha XJ650 Seca Turbo, those bikes were factory turbo’d and like I say you’ll need a decent high pressure fuel pump, that little pump you have now isn’t enough under boost and the boost pressure is just pushing the fuel back to the tank and emptying the float bowl, at the bare minimum you CAN run without any fuel pump with a blow thru setup you can just run a boost line to the tank to pressurise the fuel tank but I wouldn’t recommend that as it’s janky at best, I promise though if you try either of these methods you’ll see a great improvement and it won’t break up like it is currently! Good luck! 👍
Listen to this man right here, this is one of your biggest problems and you do not realize it yet. That surging you felt the engine making that was because of it being a single and it has no exhaust pressure in between the exhaust strokes you have to make a big enough box to hold I think it's double the CC volume of the motor your running. I could be a little wrong on the sides but if you look into it there is a mathematical equation. You can add to get the dimensions of the box you need between the turbo and the intake.
run boost into that gas cap vent. use zip ties to keep the line from popping off. then you will not need a high-pressure fuel pump to come on when boost is made.
Hey Joe. That must've been disappointing. However, when you get that turbo up and running correctly, I am betting it will be totally bad ass and worth every moment of the work you put into it. Keep your head up!! Persistence will pay off!! Dude, it's going to be sweet!!!
man i have to admit. I have left you a couple of not so encouraging comments. However you doing what I should be. Your videos have gotten much, as is from your comfortably. you have gotten better as a mechanic. Your information has gotten a lot better.. Good Job man.. when you 1st started I didnt like you so much. Now I approve. I had a turbo, for my raptor 686, and I knew someone that needed it so I gave it away. how Just the best place for true vacuume is manifold pressure for sure..
Biggest issue is going to be intake air Temp without intercooler it's going to get hot after awhile. Other than that it will work with some work. Great job 👏
Don't give up Joe. You'll get it running right. Just have to get the carb right. Might have to change the jet needle if moving it's clip down (raising the needle) doesn't smooth out that transition 1/4 throttle. I think those rings were worn out a bit too much for the extra pressure and freshening up the top end will help you to dial the fuel mixture in. I have faith in you and am anxious to see you burning the rear tires off the rims. Faithful subscriber Whoop! :D
You may be able to T the bowl overflow and the fuel cap vent to the boost pressure of the turbo . Equalizing the pressure in the fuel tank ,and bowl . And keep the fuel flow the same with out the fancy boost reference fuel pump. . Yes colder spark plugs help prevent detonation / spark knock. .
That's a very technical setup, kudos for trying to work it out. Showing my ignorance I never saw a blow thru setup before. Back in my youth if you wanted to add turbo to a carb engine you put the carb in a sealed boost box with line, linkage, and boosted air ports to equalize the pressures inside and outside the carb so it could operate as designed instead of with a pressure differential inside to out. But I'm no expert so good luck. Lots of good work there.
Hey look up Cars and Cameras, they boosted a Predator 420cc, and added a small BOV. I can't remember what that was taken off of, but ill look into it asap. That will also help with the boost pressurized carb
Check for boost leaks to make sure your getting consistent boost and start playing with jetting she’s going lean and hitting boost cut just as is starting to lit up you got it man just playing with your jet sizes a lot lol! So excited to see this thing rippppppp
There will be no need for back pressure. The turbo builds boost pressure in the manifold aka headers, and in the hot side snail 🐌 on the turbo. After exhaust gases exit out the turbine wheel you wan it to be as least restrictive as possible which is what you did. Looks good
Turbo oil is gravity return. With a side to side oiling system the seals will go bad in the turbo. The feed needs to be on top and the return needs to be on the bottom.
Idea 💡 your original diaphragm carburetor throttle body needle ran off vacuum. Run a vacuum line from the carb top cover to the turbo intake so the throttle body opens under turbo boost.
Fule revision. The boost is pushing the fuel out of the carb. You need a 1 to1 fuel pressure regulator to compensate pun 4 to 6 psi base pressure. And hook up atmosphere vents to boost. Also put a pressure like to the top of the carb so the leaking throttle cable can't make a pressure different and hold it open.
Now you need to add about 4° of ignition timing and tune it some more. Sounds like it is losing fuel when you are in the middle of doing a pull so id say it needs more fuel
Old mechanic here... I know what your problem is. Your fuel pump is only making about 4psi of fuel pressure. Once the turbo is making 5psi or more, no more fuel can get in the carb, and you're running out of gas. Yes, even the float bowl gets pressurized with a blow-through turbo setup. You're going to need a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator, and a better fuel pump. And even then, it's a huge pain to get the fuel pressure regulator set up right so the carb stays full, but doesn't "push past" the float and dump fuel out the over flow. And get rid of that extra fuel dumper that you added. Those are bad news, never work right.
Either switch your carb to a Pull Through with an electric pump, or you need to boost reference your carbs float bowl (if it's not already) and add a fuel pump too The boost is pushing fuel out of the carb atm That's why every time it gets into boost it leans out hard and shuts off after you wing the throttle open I think.
Wide and 02 sensor, some form of fuel control that’s boost referenced, replace the step down coupling going to carburetor (I used one on a car once and it blew from the heat and pressure) And being a single cylinder, I’ve heard of something called an “air capacitor” not sure if it’s really a thing, but you may not need it. There is a LARGE market for small engine turbo kits. So many people would buy one of a complete kit was put together, because it would be pretty universal to set it up.
What an awesome gold thank you for doing this if that gauge is right that's a ton of boost just sitting in the garage with no load. Continuing video now.
Fuel was dumping out of the carb every single time you did a full rev when you changed out the jets . Go back and watch the video. I think it might be losing the fuel pressure due to the leaking fuel. But I don't have too much knowledge with these setups. Hopefully you get it worked out
Like already said, run a boost line into the fuel tank so the fuel gets pressurized if the turbo makes boost, then the carb is gonna mix the air fuel at anytime with right numbers just like with no turbo.
Really enjoy the willingness to try new things! Three thoughts for you to consider. 1. You may want to retard the timing (3-5 deg) to reduce cylinder pressure and save head gaskets. 2. You could move the clip on the needle jet down a couple of slots (needle higher) to richen up the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle jetting. 3. The fuel pump regulator may need to be referenced to boost rather than atmosphere so you get fuel flow under boosted conditions. Enjoy the channel!
The oil drain goes off gravity so how it is setup is bad unless you put in a return pump to help it. There is a chance it will build up oil in the drain and blow the seals
I've been watching turbo builds for bikes and quads. They manifold The turbo where the carburetor usually then build a pipe off the back 90% facing fwd mounting carb there for extra thrust.
Look up boost referenced fuel systems, I think that will be the key to getting it dialed in, fuel pressure has to overcome turbo pressure, also don’t forget ring gap and boost pressure are also a big consideration
Yeah it looks like when it’s ramps up boost it’s not getting enough fuel. That’s why it will hit a good lick and then the power kills. Because the boost starts to be too much for the fuel. Now I may be wrong I’m no expert that’s just what it looks like to me.
Ive done this before, you need to move the carb to the inlet side of the turbo, not post compressor, the boost pressure fluctuations will affect the jets , it will also prevent any fuel from going into the bowl on boost causing a lean condition and bogging. keep the tube from the compressor outlet to the intake short. No need to reference fuel tank to boost when set up this way. You may find youll need a larger carb though.
many put turbo much closer to engine so exhaust pipes are not so long to coollers to turbo so they give better pressure to the trubo and anyways you must set the boost gate in right spot.
Spark ⚡️ plug gap has to be a lot less with boost, hotter plug also is recommended over stock. And high octane fuel is needed or it will detonated and sputter also.
OK, although you are on the right path, you definitely need some more gauges and some basic things to do: I don't know what carb you are using and how much psi your fuel pump can produce or if it is enough to compensate the turbo pressure, but you need a fuel pressure gauge and a fuel pressure regulator. Connect the regulator with the turbo pressure so it gives the right amount of fuel pressure to the carburetor. I think the engine surges you experience are caused by low fuel pressure to the carburetor. But most important : you need to have the correct oil pressure!! 2 to 3 bar pressure is mandatory! Otherwise you will destroy the turbocharger. Also: oil in and out must be vertical! You don't have a good oil return the way you've installed it! (don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. I'm currently installing the same turbo on a Honda cub with a lifan 125cc engine)
Its running out of fuel when boost increases over fuel pump working pressure. You need highpressure fuelpump and malpassi fuel regulator for turbo carb.
I guess u didn't see the bent left rim or something wrong with spacer bolts. I thought it was bent axle but it look's straight 10:23. It has to ride like riding a bucking bronco. could also be bad wheel bearing i guess also?
Seems like he is running lean maybe but the wide ban o2 sensor will help him tune it he probably needs a colder plug too. You may need to jet it to keep it running correctly.
First keep up the great videos you inspired me to make a video similar to what you do should be posting it today if all goes well it’s a kx250 with low compression bought it off a guy who had it sitting in a barn for a long time
As a guy who has been around alot of small engines ive seen briggs an stratton guys hit some high boost an make good power the were using super chargers but they had a big huge intake plenum because the single cylinder engine the way it runs it needs a big intake to give the turbo time to pump up enough air for each power stroke
Badass bike and build!!!!! I love built not bought projects, you most likey need to pressurize your fuel system, I have a blow through carburetor on my twin turbo Mustang, and on there I have fuel set at 4psi and there is a boost reference fuel pressure regulator that adds 1lb of fuel pressure per lb of boost. So 4psi driving then adding 2lb of boost would be 6lbs of fuels pressure, other wise the boost will blow fuel back through the carb counseling lean and or no fuel condition.
The rev problem is most likely to to with the piston. I put a cheap piston in mine and it wouldn’t hardly run. But when I put a wiseco in it it ran perfect
Try running a boost line to your vent line on your gas cap. This will pressurize both sides of the fuel system equally allowing your electric pump to supply plenty of fuel.
This this this this idk why more people didn’t like this
Seriously would fix everything
Of course. The boost is draining the carb bowl. That's a low pressure fuel pump u got there
That should actually work decently. I came to say he needs a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to up his fuel psi as boost rises. Not sure how much psi that pump is capable of making though so your idea would prob work better in this situation.
That is right what i tought when i Heard it stall, Just Like a Nitro engine Setup in a RC car
You were running that thing VERY lean, when the turbo starts to make boost it will keep fuel from flowing into the bowl of the carb, you will need a electric fuel pump with a boost referenced regulator that will add 1psi of fuel pressure for every 1psi of boost. This is the only way a blow try carb will work to my knowledge. Only other thing I noticed was the turbo oil drain might not be the best but it didn’t seem to be smoking much so I would worry about it right now.
Awesome project!
God bless
Exactly.
For that to work, the float bowls also need to be referenced to boost. Can't forget that.
@@kasuraga Not sure what material the float is made of but it does need to be able to handle being pressurized.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 most modern one like that honda are plastic these days. They stopped using brass a while back.
Exactly what I was going to say. Also the carb bowl needs to be pressurized as well. Or the boost going through the carb will try and escape through the carb over flow vents and render the jets useless Bc boost will back feeding through them.
Man, it’s cool how you are able to make videos and do projects like these. I hope these kinds of projects support you financially enough where you can easily slide by doing things like this for a living. Best of luck!
Oh he’s probably doing muuuuch better than you might think
It is recommended to run a 1 step colder plug when introducing boost. You also need a boost referenced fuel system to add to same amount of fuel pressure as to boost.
I agree you also have to clock the oil port so it is strait up and down doing so you should help with the amount of oil that you are burning
Also need to remove some ignition timing. And should just get a cheap EFI system and run it.
@@shawnsatterlee6035 he could always use a megasquirt 2 v3.0 bowling and grippo code standalone ecu it will run anything from 1-12 cylinders, has a built in single coil driver and can run up to 12 injectors, built in map sensor he could configure a throttle positioning sensor and be able to tune alpha N. Hardest part would just be a crank trigger which I’m sure he could figure out. Download the free version of Tunerstudio and you can get a feel for what I am saying
@@shawnsatterlee6035 Agreed. EFI would be soooooo much easier to tune.
@Dark One Yeah, there are a bunch of arduino based mini EFI things. It's involved but some would say worth it. Definitely a fun learning project. In the end you have a laptop-tuneable solution.
I think you are doing an excellent job
Taking real fails and working through them
We enjoy victory, we learn from our fails
Keep on going Joe !
As a lot of guys told you; clock the bearing housing of your turbo right!. Take the turbo off the bike and loosen the bolts holding the center section (the bearing housing), and turn it so that the oil inlet is at the top. It is very important that the oil drain port (at the bottom), is large and non-restrictive otherwise, your engine will drink oil from the turbo. There are no oil seals in there, only labyrinth seals... At first, do not try to boost more then say, 8psi. remember that @ 15psi, you will double the horsepower, in a good tuned install...
His oil drain runs uphill, they will sort it eventually. Probably going to need a pump to scavenge oil out of turbo
Get a wideband O2 sensor bro... It'll tell you how rich/lean you're running and save some heartbreak later. Keep it up though👍🏿
Frfr a carb is harder to tune, your at a point its all tune. And check the afr screw bro!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just wanna get your attention yo. I gotta stage 2 cam on a 416cc, if it dont wanna pull up in 3ed you can do better bro, BTW I gotta 15 sproket in the front and 36 in the back so I gotta more of a top speed around 90ish and it still wanna pull up around 35 mph
And prob need more fuel to your bowl in boost
That's why he reads the plugs usually. Same thing.
@@MaNNeRz91 the o2 sensor will tell him where he's at accurately and throughout the entire rpm range and under load or not.
@@bigfootandbananaman4746 for sure but he's on a carb set-up so it's never going to be as manageable as injection systems. On that type of set up the wideband would control the fuel itself. With a carb it's going to change every time he alters altitude or weather or ambient temp.
It would make jetting easier for sure but I wouldn't want one without the added fuel mapping benefits from an ecu controlled system. Which I think is the smarter route for a turbo anyway especially in regards to boost cut-offs and oil pressure safety
You'll always get the most boost while in gear under load, also running super lean, don't fry that piston
must not of watched the whole video XD
Always best power right before it breaks he will be building that one definitely it's cool though
Jojo this is whats up. Innovation and the process of trial and error. Excellent video my guy.
I think figuring out a way to tune the timing will really improve this thing. I really didn’t expect it to even run this good on a blow through so way to go bud. Love it
A msd would be the easiest I think
Delphi ECU
@@onekick nope. Self adjusting/ variable cdi
Ricky stator adjustable?
With boost you have to pull timing like in a car you can hook up a computer and tune and change stuff but with a atv i just dont understand how it would work properly without a good tunable ignition system and it wasent made to handle boost you would have to stud the head to keep it from lifting and blowing gaskets
I noticed the carburetor has a rubber diaphragm throttle body needle, boost is keeping the needle from opening, remove the diaphragm or use a snowmobile carb.
The 400ex stock carburetor is not a CV carb, the slide operates with the butterfly directly.
You still need to get the oil in and out set up right. The oil inlet fitting needs to be vertical and the oil return pointing straight down. The compressor and turbine housings can be clocked so everything lines up. You just need to loosen the housings and rotate them so it all lines up.
could it also be getting that much oil in the cylinder that it's not able to burn it kinda sounds like a 2 stroke
@@KillerCamino When a turbo is clocked horizontal the oil will usually go by the exhaust turbine. The compressor seal is a much more positive seal than the turbine seal. He's getting there with it. You gotta start somewhere.
Hey man if you need a fuel pressure regulator that’s GUARANTEED to work on a carb setup look for a fuel pressure regulator from a Yamaha XJ650 Seca Turbo, those bikes were factory turbo’d and like I say you’ll need a decent high pressure fuel pump, that little pump you have now isn’t enough under boost and the boost pressure is just pushing the fuel back to the tank and emptying the float bowl, at the bare minimum you CAN run without any fuel pump with a blow thru setup you can just run a boost line to the tank to pressurise the fuel tank but I wouldn’t recommend that as it’s janky at best, I promise though if you try either of these methods you’ll see a great improvement and it won’t break up like it is currently! Good luck! 👍
This man knows what’s up !🙌👌
I remember being at the dunes first time i saw one of those. Dude was smoking all the banshees with ease!
It’s been fun to watch and see you work through the issues. Best of luck and hope there is a next video.
When boosting a single cylinder, your gonna want to build a boost reservoir before the intake. It'll help keep boost between the single exhaust pulse.
Listen to this man right here, this is one of your biggest problems and you do not realize it yet. That surging you felt the engine making that was because of it being a single and it has no exhaust pressure in between the exhaust strokes you have to make a big enough box to hold I think it's double the CC volume of the motor your running. I could be a little wrong on the sides but if you look into it there is a mathematical equation. You can add to get the dimensions of the box you need between the turbo and the intake.
run boost into that gas cap vent. use zip ties to keep the line from popping off. then you will not need a high-pressure fuel pump to come on when boost is made.
Haven’t been on here in a very long time glad to see you’re still keeping up with content !!
That's awesome man, glad to see another video. Good morning!
Hey Joe. That must've been disappointing. However, when you get that turbo up and running correctly, I am betting it will be totally bad ass and worth every moment of the work you put into it. Keep your head up!! Persistence will pay off!! Dude, it's going to be sweet!!!
Your the guy everyone who gave up on their project needs to talk too
man i have to admit. I have left you a couple of not so encouraging comments. However you doing what I should be. Your videos have gotten much, as is from your comfortably. you have gotten better as a mechanic. Your information has gotten a lot better.. Good Job man.. when you 1st started I didnt like you so much. Now I approve. I had a turbo, for my raptor 686, and I knew someone that needed it so I gave it away. how Just the best place for true vacuume is manifold pressure for sure..
Probably been mentioned but welding gas makes welding sooo much easier. Great build and keep up the good content!
I was thinking the same thing...instantly become a better welder the day you use gas shielding.
Or just learn to arc weld
After you get it going again. Check ring gap because when you run a turbo your ring gap should be more. Awesome vid Joe you will get her dialed in.
Everybody thinks there a professional in the comment section🙄 all I got to say is it’s looking great and keep it up.
Glad you are going thru the r&d for us, this saves us some pain if we try it ourselves.
Biggest issue is going to be intake air Temp without intercooler it's going to get hot after awhile. Other than that it will work with some work. Great job 👏
Don't give up Joe. You'll get it running right. Just have to get the carb right. Might have to change the jet needle if moving it's clip down (raising the needle) doesn't smooth out that transition 1/4 throttle. I think those rings were worn out a bit too much for the extra pressure and freshening up the top end will help you to dial the fuel mixture in. I have faith in you and am anxious to see you burning the rear tires off the rims. Faithful subscriber Whoop! :D
You may be able to T the bowl overflow and the fuel cap vent to the boost pressure of the turbo . Equalizing the pressure in the fuel tank ,and bowl . And keep the fuel flow the same with out the fancy boost reference fuel pump. . Yes colder spark plugs help prevent detonation / spark knock. .
That's a very technical setup, kudos for trying to work it out. Showing my ignorance I never saw a blow thru setup before. Back in my youth if you wanted to add turbo to a carb engine you put the carb in a sealed boost box with line, linkage, and boosted air ports to equalize the pressures inside and outside the carb so it could operate as designed instead of with a pressure differential inside to out. But I'm no expert so good luck. Lots of good work there.
Hey look up Cars and Cameras, they boosted a Predator 420cc, and added a small BOV. I can't remember what that was taken off of, but ill look into it asap. That will also help with the boost pressurized carb
You still need to clock the turbo center housing so it gets oil supply in the top and drain out the bottom.
It my pay to add a thicker base or head gasket like most turbo builds to lower the compression slightly.
Mad scientist! I love this! that exhaust flange floating around tho 🤣
Check for boost leaks to make sure your getting consistent boost and start playing with jetting she’s going lean and hitting boost cut just as is starting to lit up you got it man just playing with your jet sizes a lot lol! So excited to see this thing rippppppp
A turbo engine will act completely different under load then it will just reving it up btw
Lol who knows maybe it needs less fuel Ik that wouldn’t be right but hey🤷♂️lol
I agree o2 sensor, and also add a small muffler for the cc size of engine. Will be way better bud
There will be no need for back pressure. The turbo builds boost pressure in the manifold aka headers, and in the hot side snail 🐌 on the turbo. After exhaust gases exit out the turbine wheel you wan it to be as least restrictive as possible which is what you did. Looks good
You can wire in to the ignition switch and it wont drain battery when ignition is off
Your making me think if i should do this to mine! Remember when it's cold out you run richer than when it's warm out
Turbo oil is gravity return. With a side to side oiling system the seals will go bad in the turbo. The feed needs to be on top and the return needs to be on the bottom.
Idea 💡 your original diaphragm carburetor throttle body needle ran off vacuum. Run a vacuum line from the carb top cover to the turbo intake so the throttle body opens under turbo boost.
Yes! Been waiting for this
Fule revision. The boost is pushing the fuel out of the carb. You need a 1 to1 fuel pressure regulator to compensate pun 4 to 6 psi base pressure. And hook up atmosphere vents to boost. Also put a pressure like to the top of the carb so the leaking throttle cable can't make a pressure different and hold it open.
Now you need to add about 4° of ignition timing and tune it some more. Sounds like it is losing fuel when you are in the middle of doing a pull so id say it needs more fuel
Needs a low compression piston, cold plug gapped tight, and boost referenced fuel pump play with jetting and its golden
Old mechanic here... I know what your problem is. Your fuel pump is only making about 4psi of fuel pressure. Once the turbo is making 5psi or more, no more fuel can get in the carb, and you're running out of gas. Yes, even the float bowl gets pressurized with a blow-through turbo setup.
You're going to need a boost-referenced fuel pressure regulator, and a better fuel pump. And even then, it's a huge pain to get the fuel pressure regulator set up right so the carb stays full, but doesn't "push past" the float and dump fuel out the over flow.
And get rid of that extra fuel dumper that you added. Those are bad news, never work right.
You're making great content and I would try a stronger fuel pump keep up the hard work
I thought you would have it sorted by now. It kinda looked like you did, at first! Damn. Keep it up! Looking forward for the next one!
Dont give up Joe, gap the plug down, gap the piston rings, and come back stronger
First person I saw that said end ring gap😐
Also check the gap on your spark plug make it smaller so the air doesn't blow the spark out
Close the gap on the spark plug ..the boost is causing ignition to brake up...gap to .18 - .20
Put a wd-40 squirt tube inside the boost guage hose 👌 it will give a smoother reading with less bouncing about
He probably would lmao
@@owensbama1923 what do you mean?
Either switch your carb to a Pull Through with an electric pump, or you need to boost reference your carbs float bowl (if it's not already) and add a fuel pump too The boost is pushing fuel out of the carb atm That's why every time it gets into boost it leans out hard and shuts off after you wing the throttle open I think.
Right before the adapter you got on the carb try Putin in a plenum so it can have a place to store a little extra air fuel mix to keep up wit the lag
If it’s before the carb there is no fuel, just air, boost bottle is between the carb and the head on 2 strokes if that’s what your thinking about
Wide and 02 sensor, some form of fuel control that’s boost referenced, replace the step down coupling going to carburetor (I used one on a car once and it blew from the heat and pressure)
And being a single cylinder, I’ve heard of something called an “air capacitor” not sure if it’s really a thing, but you may not need it.
There is a LARGE market for small engine turbo kits. So many people would buy one of a complete kit was put together, because it would be pretty universal to set it up.
Why is everybody so worried about blowing up a 400ex engine? It’s one of the easiest things to rebuild
Remember anytime your boost gets higher then your full pressure it will run crappy also would not hurt to get a cheap o2 gage will make tuning it easy
What an awesome gold thank you for doing this if that gauge is right that's a ton of boost just sitting in the garage with no load. Continuing video now.
Fuel was dumping out of the carb every single time you did a full rev when you changed out the jets . Go back and watch the video. I think it might be losing the fuel pressure due to the leaking fuel. But I don't have too much knowledge with these setups. Hopefully you get it worked out
you can get a wideband working on that. that would be a major help tuning the fuel in
I dont understand why you used your perfectly fine honda atv to try turboing it but it was a really entretaining series fo sho!
Like already said, run a boost line into the fuel tank so the fuel gets pressurized if the turbo makes boost, then the carb is gonna mix the air fuel at anytime with right numbers just like with no turbo.
Really enjoy the willingness to try new things! Three thoughts for you to consider. 1. You may want to retard the timing (3-5 deg) to reduce cylinder pressure and save head gaskets. 2. You could move the clip on the needle jet down a couple of slots (needle higher) to richen up the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle jetting. 3. The fuel pump regulator may need to be referenced to boost rather than atmosphere so you get fuel flow under boosted conditions. Enjoy the channel!
The oil drain goes off gravity so how it is setup is bad unless you put in a return pump to help it. There is a chance it will build up oil in the drain and blow the seals
Should have just got a blue bottle= NOS💨 alot less vacume lines and instant fun🤙
Easy things to try .run hose straight from compressor housing to tank then regulator before carb
I've been watching turbo builds for bikes and quads. They manifold The turbo where the carburetor usually then build a pipe off the back 90% facing fwd mounting carb there for extra thrust.
Look up boost referenced fuel systems, I think that will be the key to getting it dialed in, fuel pressure has to overcome turbo pressure, also don’t forget ring gap and boost pressure are also a big consideration
u might not claim to be an expert but my friend u are the shit when it comes to ATVS
Well done. I hope you get it figured out. Looks good so far
If there is a direct vent to the carburetor bowl run a boost pressure line to that , than you will have equal pressure in the bowl as the boost climbs
Yeah it looks like when it’s ramps up boost it’s not getting enough fuel. That’s why it will hit a good lick and then the power kills. Because the boost starts to be too much for the fuel. Now I may be wrong I’m no expert that’s just what it looks like to me.
that's exactly whats happening and that's exactly why he needs a 1:1 FPR with a return line
did you plug off your bowl from the carburetor because if boost gets in your fuel will be pushed right back in your tank
Ive done this before, you need to move the carb to the inlet side of the turbo, not post compressor, the boost pressure fluctuations will affect the jets , it will also prevent any fuel from going into the bowl on boost causing a lean condition and bogging. keep the tube from the compressor outlet to the intake short. No need to reference fuel tank to boost when set up this way. You may find youll need a larger carb though.
Number one gauge is AFR. Dont beat on any boosted engine until you ensure AFR is correct. Bad things happen quick.
really love that you say you are not an expert in your videos now 😂
Haha had to! New people watching seem to think that I am lol
many put turbo much closer to engine so exhaust pipes are not so long to coollers to turbo so they give better pressure to the trubo and anyways you must set the boost gate in right spot.
The most efficient way for turbo is short output from exhaust valves to the turbo and long tube from turbo to the intake valve ,
Spark ⚡️ plug gap has to be a lot less with boost, hotter plug also is recommended over stock. And high octane fuel is needed or it will detonated and sputter also.
The 400ex is so underrated imo
OK, although you are on the right path, you definitely need some more gauges and some basic things to do:
I don't know what carb you are using and how much psi your fuel pump can produce or if it is enough to compensate the turbo pressure, but you need a fuel pressure gauge and a fuel pressure regulator. Connect the regulator with the turbo pressure so it gives the right amount of fuel pressure to the carburetor. I think the engine surges you experience are caused by low fuel pressure to the carburetor.
But most important : you need to have the correct oil pressure!! 2 to 3 bar pressure is mandatory! Otherwise you will destroy the turbocharger. Also: oil in and out must be vertical! You don't have a good oil return the way you've installed it!
(don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. I'm currently installing the same turbo on a Honda cub with a lifan 125cc engine)
Dude it sounds like a 2 stroke as soon as it revs past idle...crazy bro..just crazy
You will get it running proper we have faith in you.👍
The rear axle is bent or your tires are not balanced because when you give it throttle everything is bouncing
Its running out of fuel when boost increases over fuel pump working pressure. You need highpressure fuelpump and malpassi fuel regulator for turbo carb.
Your going to blow that motor up
I know on Banshee's the Crank Seals Have to be Glued In
Who cares that would be a new video
Duh lol that’s the point. Build em, break em , repeat..
I guess u didn't see the bent left rim or something wrong with spacer bolts. I thought it was bent axle but it look's straight 10:23. It has to ride like riding a bucking bronco. could also be bad wheel bearing i guess also?
Better fuel pump and a boost reference fuel pressure regulator. I would recommend a Malpassi...
Boost gauge should be reading some negative pressure in idle not stuck at zero.
Seems like he is running lean maybe but the wide ban o2 sensor will help him tune it he probably needs a colder plug too. You may need to jet it to keep it running correctly.
Trial and error. Good video joe. Keep it up
First keep up the great videos you inspired me to make a video similar to what you do should be posting it today if all goes well it’s a kx250 with low compression bought it off a guy who had it sitting in a barn for a long time
Awesome!
if u add boost you need to make the plug gap smaller especially with a stock coil
After watching this series I really want to turbo my 450 😬😂
I reccomend you don't unless you know how to do it right
Why!? Just why!? Dumb idea for a quad.
@@Davido50 i have a 450 dirt bike, not quad
@@masonnutter6718 yeah...lol
@Rossi Carmichael I know
dont know what looked bent more the rear axle or the rear wheels i was waiting for it to vibrate off the stand n go threw the the garage lol
You should probably clock the turbo cartridge so your oil return is as vertical as possible and an oil scavenger pump
Gap the plug smaller and different jets and you’ll be perfect. A wideband will show you exactly your afrs.
As a guy who has been around alot of small engines ive seen briggs an stratton guys hit some high boost an make good power the were using super chargers but they had a big huge intake plenum because the single cylinder engine the way it runs it needs a big intake to give the turbo time to pump up enough air for each power stroke
I’ve been so excited to watch this!
Badass bike and build!!!!! I love built not bought projects, you most likey need to pressurize your fuel system, I have a blow through carburetor on my twin turbo Mustang, and on there I have fuel set at 4psi and there is a boost reference fuel pressure regulator that adds 1lb of fuel pressure per lb of boost. So 4psi driving then adding 2lb of boost would be 6lbs of fuels pressure, other wise the boost will blow fuel back through the carb counseling lean and or no fuel condition.
The rev problem is most likely to to with the piston. I put a cheap piston in mine and it wouldn’t hardly run. But when I put a wiseco in it it ran perfect