Great video, the best explanation of crankcase evac system I have found ON UA-cam. Most of the boosted production cars come with a connection from the breather to the intake before the turbo to evacuate gases under boost. Arguably, on boosted applications which have more blow-by, it's more important to evacuate under boost than at idle / low engine speeds. Unless you are using a dry sump, routing both the PCV and the breather ends to catch cans (separate ones is the preferred approach) leads to more pressure in the crankcase, which is not good.
Great video! Such a smooth explanation of a topic that is misunderstood by many car enthisiasts including myself. I come from a Nissan RB mods background and I know many RB enthusiasts have done their catch can setups the wrong way including myself simply due to lack of understanding of how PCV works underboosted conditions. It makes perfect sense to me now and I can now relate to my older installations of catch cans and laugh at myself lol. Thanks
Excellent explanation!! Australia university did a study for catch cans, found only the PROVENT catch can made in Germany by Mann Hummel cleaned up the vapours by 95+ % All others with stainless mesh only 35% efficient. Plus the PROVENT HAS SAFERY VALVES FOR OVER AND VACUUM 👍👍🇨🇦
For racing especially drifting I capped my PCV side and on the IM caped and only run the breather to a catch can. Very well documented on miata turbo under the definitive oil catch can thread.
3:40 No, that is not how it works. Not from the factory. It is what happens to people that do not understand how the PCV system actually works, no disrespect, no offense, I want to fix this knowledge gap for everybody. I recommend you take a measurement of the factory turbo engines, measure their crankcase pressure at wide open throttle. Resolution is on the order of two to four inches of mercury at most. It is not a positive pressure as you suggest. The actual crankcase pressure at WOT is NEGATIVE in a factory turbo engine because the pressure scalar component is driven by air filter pressure drop. I have a video in my channel where I set and measure the crankcase pressure to become negative during boost. This is how you keep oil inside the engine and prevent deposits from circulating and ruining the engine quickly. This is also how you keep piston rings draining properly in boost and wick oil down from engine components back to the oil pan. This is also how you reduce blow-by and prevent oil from being pulled up into the chamber during intake stroke from the ring pack. Basically it is the most important and fundamentally mis-understood principle of combustion engines. Fundamentals are pressure testing and crankcase pressure measurement.
I did the setup where you route the catch can to ait intake on my supercharged Camaro and it was SUCKING up oil when it was in vacuum. Sucking up 1qt per 1,000 miles!! So capped off that intake side run breather catch from both Valve covers only! So much better!
Great video! To share my experience, when venting breather to catch can to intake, you got to keep an eye on the catch can after a few runs at the track. I filled up my intercooler with oil pretty fast at the track and blew excess out the blow of valve. I now use your first example breather to catch can to breather filter works better. For reference my car is a na with 99 motor and gt2560r w/ mishimoto catch can.
Thanks that’s great feedback. I’ve also read of some people actually draining the oil from the catch can back in to their oil pan. This way you don’t have to worry about oil overfilling the catch can.
PCV valve is only installed on street car set up as you have to return air from AOS or catchcane to intake manifold to be burned again so you put PCV as a one way check vakve there to prevent boost leak when we are under boost. Race set up only returns filtered oil back to crankcase through one of the other ports depends of the car now. The air is vented to atmosphere hence no need for PCV valve
An excellent explanation. Just one thing: the first system you showed (around 5 mins) with the catch can vented to atmosphere is defo a BAD way to do it. Why is that? Under vacuum conditions (cruising down the motorway for example) the air that comes IN this filter to the crankcase and then to the inlet mani to join the combustion mixture is UNMETERED air that has not passed through the mass airflow (MAF) sensor.Thus the engine is actually breathing IN more air than is being measured. Since measured air is used to determine the correct amount of fuel required, this system will result in the engine running slightly weak. The system you showed later (c7 mins) with a connection to the incoming airflow is the correct way to do it. This is a closed system and ALL the air that enters the engine is metered, so no problems with running weak.
Exactly, i see so many builds on Instagram for instance that are all wrong, where they even delete the PCV valve all together and vent both to a atmospheric vented cant, they must enjoy sludge damaged motors due to it all being stagnated and oil mist filled cabin carcinogenic gasses, no wonder we have climate change.
@@robywankenobi32 I hope they are not deleting the PCV valve on turbo cars, lol lol lol. Actually, I have seen that done. Double quick way to destroy your rings and wreck the engine.. I'll have to do a video on my channel for how to install a catch can properly. My Saab is turbo too, so I can explain turbo and non turbo installs.
@@CycloneCyd Pretty much every turbo car i've seen has it wrong, then when you try explain whats wrong they will be all protective about there system EVEN if it is bad for the environment and the motors longevity - current situation with the human condition. Theres not enough definition between a dedicated track car and road registered car, and people think they can blur the lines.
PCV was created originally during WW2 because certain engines such as tanks and other military vehicles. The water they had to operate in. With just a filter on the valve cover it would allow water to enter the engine. Sure was used later for immissions control, but again it was created for military vehicles and water they had to operate in. PCV sealed the engine from water.
thank you thank you thank you. Was debating single can (PVC only) or double (PVC + Breather) for my Forte5 GT with 1.6T Gamma. Was going to go for single PVC only until watching your video made me realize that the breather side goes positive during boost so I'm going to need dual catch can set up.
Yes, and this is why typically the breather pipe plumbed from rocker cover to turbo inlet/MAF sensor T-piece junction is actually bigger, it has less vacuum to assist it, so the pipe internal diameter is normally double what the vacuum side pipe is used on the PCV valve to make sure it is not a restriction, if all custom work is being done the pipe plumbed in has to be downstream of the MAF sensor, so that a) the ECU knows how much air the PCV valve ion oppisote side is letting into the combustion process as the MAF is measuring it both into the rocker cover as well as the turbo inlet during normal idle, and b) has to be downstream of MAF otherwise turbo inlet draft during WOT will pull oil from rocker cover through the MAF sensor and coat it with oil - a big headache.
First of all thank you for the video, very informative. Nowww.. I have a 2010 challenger srt8 with a Vortech centrifugal supercharger, long tube headers and methanol injection. Im having a nasty problem of oil getting out of the valve cover into the intake filter, supercharger, intercooler(top mount, water to air cooling) and all the way back to the manifold and into the ground since a lot stays in the filter. I added a baffled 3 port catch can ran the valve cover tube and pcv tube into the can and put a filter into the 3rd port. Oil still managed to get thru the can and splattered all over the engine bay. I added a 2nd catch can and the oil still made it out and splashed everywhere! Idk what else to do
I'm considering running the hose into the side of the dump pipe so the hot exhaust gas will draw the vapour out as a venturi system and burn the vapour as well
I have a 91 Mercury Capri xr2 which is the turbo model. From valve cover to pcv valve I get all this gunk sludge (looks like honey) in pcv valve and then goes into the intake manifold. I’ve checked inside valve cover valve train and none in there. I’ve changed oil etc but still happens only at pcv valve and aft. Drives me crazy. I also don’t drive the car long trips just short trips maybe 7miles round trip and not always in hwy. more city driving.
I realise it's about 18 months ago now, but another thought: if I were you I would NOT put that SS wool in your cam cover. That wool will eventually become clogged and the only way to unclog it will be to remove and disassemble your cam cover. But how will you know when it's clogged? Well, you won't untill the engine starts building up excess crankcase pressure and you start blowing rings❗ Let the dirty air out through the cam cover vents and let the catch can(s) do their job of catching that oil which you can easily drain off at intervals.
I understand why we have it and that an oil catch-can will help with blow-by; but does the catch-can affect the FUEL-TRIMS any? or the operation of the PCV valve?
I used that exact scrubber in my catch can for added surface area. I still had oil in my intake of my blower and the intercooler. Seems there is no win-win . I thought about the race breather catch can but just as you said, the contaminates will be trapped in the engine. What do you think about using a vacuum pump to pull clean air through the engine? No emissions here.
But this is a legal requirement for all road registered cars, an inline GAS TIGHT catch can on the clean side is the best and legal way to do it, venting to atmosphere on the breather side is bad for the environment - and is not possible if the car still uses a MAF sensor - this sensor has to measure all the mass in the combusting, letting unmetred air into the rocker cover and thus out the PCV vavle into the intake manifold breaks the PCV system, as the computer won't know about it the extra air.
Hi, hope you're doing great. I block my pcv and use a vented oil catch can, new rings, fresh rebuild engine. I have some smoke from the breather top of the catch can. Seems water vapor but so scary. Is it normal? How fix this, please. Thanks.
How did you go with 1)the stainless wool 2) getting oil past the catch can on breather side and 3) the moshimoto catch can? The moshimoto catch can looks like it would cause a significant restriction so wonder if you found that or if you're still using it?
The catch cans have worked out just fine. The breather side catches about twice the oil as the pcv side. I check them at every oil change, great about a 40ml total at most out of them.
Dont run catch cans with that gold lookin filter element to restrictive. get a can that u can unscrew the baffle put some steel wool in baffle and screw back on. That restrictive gold baffle will blow oil seals
Great video.. am stuck here .. the pcv closes at vaccium ..right?? And opens when the throttle opens ? So with boost it would open even more ? Or the case here is ..the boost is higher than the crank case pressure so it wont come out though the pcv is open?
I know some people put check valves into the pcv valve for GDI engines when using a catch can. Can this damage the crank case ! Or the manifold intake ?
really want to know how your experiment with the stainless steel material in the exit chamber of the valve cover came out. I drive an audi with a 2.7 bi-turbo and oily air being sucked back into the turbo's under boost is a real issue. ...but a related issue is even worse, that is, crankcase pressure in the valve covers forces very annoying gasket leaks. Did the added pre-exit materials add to the gasket pressure while capturing oil from the crankcase air...? What were the consequences... ??
The valve cover never leaked before or after I added the ss scrub pads. It did reduce the oil being pushed out the vent side. Tho I did still get some still captured in the catch can, but 50% less…
Stainless mesh is good in a can because it has a great deal of surface area. This gives vapors entering the can the best chance to condense and fall harmlessly to the bottom of the can. Putting the mesh where you show it in the valve cover baffles will have the same condensing effect. Where does the condensate go then? Will the liquid then get sucked out the pcv valve?
@@Seandoestech I am more inclined to think it will just get sucked out the pcv from the baffled area. Won’t there always be flow in that direction when the engine is running?
Such a great video! Your the man!!! Quick question how would any of the application options differ if the car was a non turbo? v6 with pcv valve on front cover where oil filler cap is and the rear (closest to firewall VC has air inlet hose going back into the airbox... Got eclipse 3.0 with worn rings and I get oil leaking out of my filler cap as well as smoke when filler cap is open. Was going to leave pcv as it is and try to modify my oil cap to vent or go into a catch can to relieve some crankcase pressure.. I don't care about venting off into the air as long as the smoke is not visible just don't want to suck in any air through that modified oil cap breather and possibly throw off MAF ... Thanks to you and anyone else that could assist. :)
Thanks man! I think the same principles apply for an NA engine. In your case, you’ll want to be sure the PCV valve is functional because will definitely impact crankcase pressure.
Can the setup apply to Hyundai gdi motor that are not boost it yet but are on their way because I change my spark plugs and found oil vapor in my air intake manifold I have a catch can on pcv valve now I want to try with a other one with a breather on the crankcase what do you think.
I'm confuse. With you're racing set up I have smoke from the breather of the catch can and you're pcv + wool for daily crankcase pressure still high. Any tips ? Thanks
Love the video, where and how would a crank case extraction system fit in? Would you just replace the pvc? Or would you need an oil catch can on the breather side?
Very easy to follow and use this in relation to completely different engine to understand all the options and pro and cons as to how to deal with venting my oroject
I have a catch can installed recently. 2006 mustang 4.0. I hooked it up to the passenger side pcv to the in on the catch can and the out to the air intake. The ccv straight to the air intake. Is this a correct way to run this system? Thanks.
Thanks for the video! Explains it very nicely. Wish I had watched this before building my supercharged Xterra. Just working on getting my rb25det running right now on my Stagea and trying to figure out the catch can situation. Looks like I will be redoing the Xterra as well :(
I had an issue with the PCV that caused engine surge which was solved by disconnecting the air intake hose from the PCV.. Can you explain what could be the cause of engine surge? Tks for you advice.
great video, i own a 1999 montero v6 gdi 3.5 litre and on the passenger side it has a PCV valve which is routed from the top of the passenger valvecase over to the drivers valvecase, then there is another pipe which then exits the drivers side back into the air filter housing before the throttle body, if im reading this right i would need ! catch can fitted inline on the PCV side to deal with off boost stuff then another catch can fitted inbetween the drivers pipe that exits that valve cover which eventually goes back into the air filter housing for on boost yes.. think im right here, maybe someone verify this cheers
I pauzed it when you opened the occ the brass filter in the occ doesnt that restrict the flow like does it increase crankcase pressure i got a airtec one but i dont thrust the damn filter in it due to more pressure being created can someone tell me if im wrong or not good video tho
in my unit i installed occ but i removed the brush filter inside the occ beacuse it can restrict the air flow and can increase crankcase pressure that leads a damage to the engine
Today's engines no longer use a PCV valve like the one in this video!! Please show how the valve that is integrated into the rocker cover/valve cover works! They are relabeled as Crankcase Pressure Regulating Valve.
I don't know about Miatas specifically. I've got a Speed 6. and, there are a lot of variations. Some people just put one catch can on the breather side. That is basically the first-step version. Some people will put a second can on the PCV side, as you suggest. Or, some people will go the "race car" route and tie both sides into one catch can and then VTA. (Vent to atmosphere.) The "race car" route is definitely not emissions compliant.
Welp, the motors out again 🤣 but I basically ran a catch can on both the breather and pvc side. The breather side gets virtually no oil since I put the scrubber pad in the VC, but I get about 4 oz of oil out of the PVC side every 6k (I empty it every other oil change)
Boosted Miata Thanks for the information and I hope you can get your motor back. I have also been trying to troubleshoot the addition of an OCC to my 2017 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. I modified the hoses so they are spliced together 2 in 2 out and had to follow up with drilling pinholes in the oil cap to relieve pressure. I tried fitting the filter that came with the OCC to the oil cap but it was not relieving enough pressure. The system works great except for the oil misting up the engine bay. I am going to get a breather cap that hopefully solves that problem, but otherwise I am getting great results. BTW I think the internal scrubber filter you added might be your engine trouble just for the fact that everything else you have done has some kind of equilibrium with the intake and output. Thanks for the video as it has helped me out a lot and for the fast response, I am a subscriber as of now.
yeah if you install check valve in the breather it can add crankcase pressure maybe installing filter along with the breather hose is a good idea to prevent sucking dirt during vaccum
So can I install another catch-can to the breather filter side of the v8 dodge? or does all of your instruction applies only to a TURBO engine? I'm not a turbo guy, only trying to make my Dodge run better.
Since you’re not going to build boost in a naturally aspirated set up, having a catch can on the breather port probably not necessary unless you are seeing oil being pushed through the port.
For serious crank case pressure‘s probably want to do the option I spoke about I called at the race car option where you drill out the breather port and the PVC port and then run some AN Dash 10 hose and connectors into a large vented to air catch can.
@@michaelvanna8982 the catch can only acts as a separator vented out to your liking... nearly no internal pressure if the flow pipes are sized properly ✌🏻
Other than emissions? Well you’re not actively pulling vapors from your crankcase when not in boost. Some might consider that risky for oil seals in the engine.
I have a boosted 1.6 NA. Both valve cover ports are vented to a single catch can that has a vent filter on it. This sort of works, but fills up fast. If you let it get too full, which only takes 100 to 200 miles, it starts saturating the vent filter and building up crankcase pressure, and making a mess. It is a very short term solution, no good for a daily driver, unless you want to empty that thing with every tank of gas.
So when turbo or supercharging any piston or rotary engine, I can't just vent the crankcase breather to the intake of the compressor, because that will damage the turbo or supercharger? But if it's a naturally aspirated engine, then its perfectly ok to vent the breather into the carburetor or throttle-body intake? ....This makes me sad. Because if I want a boosted engine, then I'll need a catchcan, and all that oil, fuel, and water in the can, will just be discarded, instead of burning for power, and water becoming steam to clean the combustion chambers. I really don't like that going to waste, and just adding to the maintenance & mess of an engine. ... What if I do a Draw-through turbo setup, a carburetor on the intake of the turbo, instead of carburetors on each intake-port, and if the crankcase breather goes before the turbo carburetor, then won't the gas from the carburetor keep the compressor clean, from the breather vapors?
You can vent to the intake system and most off the shelf systems have some form of this, but there is a risk of pulling oil into the intake when it comes out the breather port, and the PVC port as well, as well. Burning the vapors is good for emissions but the oil is bad because it can increases knock as well as reduce the performance of intercoolers as it may coat the tubes.
@@Seandoestech A Draw-Through turbo setup, does not require an intercooler, because the atomized fuel from the carburetor, has a cooling effect. And to cool it down even more, alcohol can be injected after the turbo compressor. But instead of doing that, I'm chilling the air that's entering the turbo's carburetor. I just want to know how much of a cleaning effect, does a carburetor have, on everything behind it, even with a crankcase breather venting into it. If it works with naturally aspirated engines, their intake ports & valves, then can it also work, on a compressor? ... I didn't know oil increases knock. How? Carbon deposits? And if I can chill the air/fuel mix, below ambient, even after the compressor. Then wouldn't that greatly reduce any chance of knock? Even with high boost?
Or u can spend alittle more money and buy the provent 200 that can dosent create any more backpressure then running without can so its the best can outthere
So when pcv valve close under boost so the breather became pcv so what about breathing cuz when air get sucked so engine need breather so what about breather...???
ali qadri the breather side is both under boost, there is no check valve on the breather side. Also you are not constantly in boost, so temporarily not having a breather is not an issue. However a race car that runs under boost significantly will used a non-PCV system where both the breather and PCV connections on the valve cover will run to an oil catch can with a vented to atmosphere filter. I explain this in the video.
I do have a quick question for you =going from front mount to rear mount turbo on my satty. I know its not a miata, so hopefully you won't stop reading at this point! I got a copy of the STS pdf install guide just as a reference due to the rear mount nature of the kit (figured some things might be different). In the guide, they mention using a 1psi switch to open an actuator so that the pcv system doesn't see any boost. BUT, just watching this, It appears the stock pcv will stop boost coming from the intake into the engine/crankcase anyway, correct? Any ideas why they'd want to implement a separate system that seemingly is already accomplished with the stock pcv?
I’m not sure why, could just be for extra caution, so your not pushing oil into the intake. If you use a PCV valve, you want one that is designed for boost applications if possible. I use the Mazdaspeed version.
Could I trouble you for a part number? When you say mazdaspeed, for the 3 being that its factory turbo'd? I found a ford part number ev274? its a black and orange valve?
I agree for most applications, this might be extreme, but if you find the catch cans filling up, it’s an option just keep the mesh loose, not dense, just enough to help mitigate the oil pushing through.
Bull. You can put a loose knit metal sponge inside the valve cover before the pcv or case vent. Infact many engines do this. Two off the top of my head Detroit Diesel 12.7s and jeep 4.0. The Detroits are turbo'd and outside the valve cover the case vent is routed to a oil slinger that drops any remaining oil from the vapor and drains it back into the case usually at the timing cover.
So the most optimal way for a boosted car is to run some sort of a catch can from the breather side vented to atmosphere (while in boost) and a recirculated breather (block->breather->PCV) on the PCV side while not in boost (pulling vacuum). Just trying to understand it correctly since English is not my main language it's kinda hard to understand certain terms. Great video tho :)
For reference: Have a b16 ~300hp@10psi I want to delete the factory black box and run 2 hoses to a catchcan and 1 hose to factory PCV port. My brain understands this as: vapours go to the catch can, seperate from oil and clean air goes back to PCV. Sorry for the long post 🙂
Spent an hour trying to find somebody to actually explain this system PROPERLY and couldn't find one till I found yours THANK YOU
although u-tube is great....answers can be long in coming ...and you often need the answers immeadiately if youre going to solve a problem
Best explanation ever after watching 100s of videos❤❤
Great video, the best explanation of crankcase evac system I have found ON UA-cam. Most of the boosted production cars come with a connection from the breather to the intake before the turbo to evacuate gases under boost. Arguably, on boosted applications which have more blow-by, it's more important to evacuate under boost than at idle / low engine speeds. Unless you are using a dry sump, routing both the PCV and the breather ends to catch cans (separate ones is the preferred approach) leads to more pressure in the crankcase, which is not good.
I agree! Best explanation I have ever found. PCV and boost makes so much sense now.
Great video! Such a smooth explanation of a topic that is misunderstood by many car enthisiasts including myself. I come from a Nissan RB mods background and I know many RB enthusiasts have done their catch can setups the wrong way including myself simply due to lack of understanding of how PCV works underboosted conditions. It makes perfect sense to me now and I can now relate to my older installations of catch cans and laugh at myself lol. Thanks
the catch can I got has an IN and OUT and a diagram I found on-line shows that the PCV valve side is connected to the IN.
Excellent explanation!! Australia university did a study for catch cans, found only the PROVENT catch can made in Germany by Mann Hummel cleaned up the vapours by 95+ % All others with stainless mesh only 35% efficient. Plus the PROVENT HAS SAFERY VALVES FOR OVER AND VACUUM 👍👍🇨🇦
For racing especially drifting I capped my PCV side and on the IM caped and only run the breather to a catch can. Very well documented on miata turbo under the definitive oil catch can thread.
3:40 No, that is not how it works. Not from the factory. It is what happens to people that do not understand how the PCV system actually works, no disrespect, no offense, I want to fix this knowledge gap for everybody. I recommend you take a measurement of the factory turbo engines, measure their crankcase pressure at wide open throttle. Resolution is on the order of two to four inches of mercury at most. It is not a positive pressure as you suggest. The actual crankcase pressure at WOT is NEGATIVE in a factory turbo engine because the pressure scalar component is driven by air filter pressure drop. I have a video in my channel where I set and measure the crankcase pressure to become negative during boost. This is how you keep oil inside the engine and prevent deposits from circulating and ruining the engine quickly. This is also how you keep piston rings draining properly in boost and wick oil down from engine components back to the oil pan. This is also how you reduce blow-by and prevent oil from being pulled up into the chamber during intake stroke from the ring pack. Basically it is the most important and fundamentally mis-understood principle of combustion engines. Fundamentals are pressure testing and crankcase pressure measurement.
Thanks again for your service
I did the setup where you route the catch can to ait intake on my supercharged Camaro and it was SUCKING up oil when it was in vacuum. Sucking up 1qt per 1,000 miles!! So capped off that intake side run breather catch from both Valve covers only! So much better!
Thank you. Exactly what I needed. And I love the style you used by mixing actual parts with drawings.
Very well done explanation! This will help me figure out the right setup for my 2JZ. Thanks for the great video!
Great video! To share my experience, when venting breather to catch can to intake, you got to keep an eye on the catch can after a few runs at the track. I filled up my intercooler with oil pretty fast at the track and blew excess out the blow of valve. I now use your first example breather to catch can to breather filter works better. For reference my car is a na with 99 motor and gt2560r w/ mishimoto catch can.
Thanks that’s great feedback. I’ve also read of some people actually draining the oil from the catch can back in to their oil pan. This way you don’t have to worry about oil overfilling the catch can.
PCV valve is only installed on street car set up as you have to return air from AOS or catchcane to intake manifold to be burned again so you put PCV as a one way check vakve there to prevent boost leak when we are under boost. Race set up only returns filtered oil back to crankcase through one of the other ports depends of the car now. The air is vented to atmosphere hence no need for PCV valve
An excellent explanation. Just one thing: the first system you showed (around 5 mins) with the catch can vented to atmosphere is defo a BAD way to do it. Why is that? Under vacuum conditions (cruising down the motorway for example) the air that comes IN this filter to the crankcase and then to the inlet mani to join the combustion mixture is UNMETERED air that has not passed through the mass airflow (MAF) sensor.Thus the engine is actually breathing IN more air than is being measured. Since measured air is used to determine the correct amount of fuel required, this system will result in the engine running slightly weak.
The system you showed later (c7 mins) with a connection to the incoming airflow is the correct way to do it. This is a closed system and ALL the air that enters the engine is metered, so no problems with running weak.
Exactly, i see so many builds on Instagram for instance that are all wrong, where they even delete the PCV valve all together and vent both to a atmospheric vented cant, they must enjoy sludge damaged motors due to it all being stagnated and oil mist filled cabin carcinogenic gasses, no wonder we have climate change.
@@robywankenobi32 I hope they are not deleting the PCV valve on turbo cars, lol lol lol.
Actually, I have seen that done. Double quick way to destroy your rings and wreck the engine..
I'll have to do a video on my channel for how to install a catch can properly. My Saab is turbo too, so I can explain turbo and non turbo installs.
@@CycloneCyd Pretty much every turbo car i've seen has it wrong, then when you try explain whats wrong they will be all protective about there system EVEN if it is bad for the environment and the motors longevity - current situation with the human condition. Theres not enough definition between a dedicated track car and road registered car, and people think they can blur the lines.
PCV was created originally during WW2 because certain engines such as tanks and other military vehicles. The water they had to operate in. With just a filter on the valve cover it would allow water to enter the engine. Sure was used later for immissions control, but again it was created for military vehicles and water they had to operate in. PCV sealed the engine from water.
Brilliant, thanks for the that, makes perfect sense.
thank you thank you thank you. Was debating single can (PVC only) or double (PVC + Breather) for my Forte5 GT with 1.6T Gamma. Was going to go for single PVC only until watching your video made me realize that the breather side goes positive during boost so I'm going to need dual catch can set up.
Yes, and this is why typically the breather pipe plumbed from rocker cover to turbo inlet/MAF sensor T-piece junction is actually bigger, it has less vacuum to assist it, so the pipe internal diameter is normally double what the vacuum side pipe is used on the PCV valve to make sure it is not a restriction, if all custom work is being done the pipe plumbed in has to be downstream of the MAF sensor, so that a) the ECU knows how much air the PCV valve ion oppisote side is letting into the combustion process as the MAF is measuring it both into the rocker cover as well as the turbo inlet during normal idle, and b) has to be downstream of MAF otherwise turbo inlet draft during WOT will pull oil from rocker cover through the MAF sensor and coat it with oil - a big headache.
Spent like a day trying to find someone to go into this to see if I can run it like this and thank you that’s all I can say is thank you
Best ccv system video ever
First of all thank you for the video, very informative.
Nowww.. I have a 2010 challenger srt8 with a Vortech centrifugal supercharger, long tube headers and methanol injection.
Im having a nasty problem of oil getting out of the valve cover into the intake filter, supercharger, intercooler(top mount, water to air cooling) and all the way back to the manifold and into the ground since a lot stays in the filter.
I added a baffled 3 port catch can ran the valve cover tube and pcv tube into the can and put a filter into the 3rd port.
Oil still managed to get thru the can and splattered all over the engine bay.
I added a 2nd catch can and the oil still made it out and splashed everywhere!
Idk what else to do
if you do have a cheapo catch can without baffles, like me, stainless still in the can also helps catch oil from the air
Gracias por traernos éstas obras maestras !
Watch the Donut Media 'Money Pit' video on their track test of the turbo Miata. They capped the valve cover breather and it caused massive oil leaks!
I'm considering running the hose into the side of the dump pipe so the hot exhaust gas will draw the vapour out as a venturi system and burn the vapour as well
I have a 91 Mercury Capri xr2 which is the turbo model.
From valve cover to pcv valve I get all this gunk sludge (looks like honey) in pcv valve and then goes into the intake manifold.
I’ve checked inside valve cover valve train and none in there.
I’ve changed oil etc but still happens only at pcv valve and aft.
Drives me crazy.
I also don’t drive the car long trips just short trips maybe 7miles round trip and not always in hwy. more city driving.
I realise it's about 18 months ago now, but another thought: if I were you I would NOT put that SS wool in your cam cover. That wool will eventually become clogged and the only way to unclog it will be to remove and disassemble your cam cover. But how will you know when it's clogged? Well, you won't untill the engine starts building up excess crankcase pressure and you start blowing rings❗ Let the dirty air out through the cam cover vents and let the catch can(s) do their job of catching that oil which you can easily drain off at intervals.
I understand why we have it and that an oil catch-can will help with blow-by; but does the catch-can affect the FUEL-TRIMS any? or the operation of the PCV valve?
great video for the OCT explanation. thanks!
I used that exact scrubber in my catch can for added surface area. I still had oil in my intake of my blower and the intercooler. Seems there is no win-win . I thought about the race breather catch can but just as you said, the contaminates will be trapped in the engine. What do you think about using a vacuum pump to pull clean air through the engine? No emissions here.
Well said..Some of the nasty stuff that I have seen in my catch can I wouldn't risk any of that heading towards my compressor wheel
But this is a legal requirement for all road registered cars, an inline GAS TIGHT catch can on the clean side is the best and legal way to do it, venting to atmosphere on the breather side is bad for the environment - and is not possible if the car still uses a MAF sensor - this sensor has to measure all the mass in the combusting, letting unmetred air into the rocker cover and thus out the PCV vavle into the intake manifold breaks the PCV system, as the computer won't know about it the extra air.
Hi, hope you're doing great. I block my pcv and use a vented oil catch can, new rings, fresh rebuild engine. I have some smoke from the breather top of the catch can. Seems water vapor but so scary. Is it normal? How fix this, please. Thanks.
Blow by is mostly burnt fuel exhaust that makes it past the rings then atomises oil from crankcase then expelled from vent.
How did you go with 1)the stainless wool 2) getting oil past the catch can on breather side and 3) the moshimoto catch can? The moshimoto catch can looks like it would cause a significant restriction so wonder if you found that or if you're still using it?
The catch cans have worked out just fine. The breather side catches about twice the oil as the pcv side. I check them at every oil change, great about a 40ml total at most out of them.
Awesome explanation, thank you sir!
Moroso makes some good vacuum pumps. That might be a solution.
Dont run catch cans with that gold lookin filter element to restrictive. get a can that u can unscrew the baffle put some steel wool in baffle and screw back on. That restrictive gold baffle will blow oil seals
You’re wrong about that
Great video.. am stuck here .. the pcv closes at vaccium ..right?? And opens when the throttle opens ? So with boost it would open even more ? Or the case here is ..the boost is higher than the crank case pressure so it wont come out though the pcv is open?
I know some people put check valves into the pcv valve for GDI engines when using a catch can. Can this damage the crank case ! Or the manifold intake ?
really want to know how your experiment with the stainless steel material in the exit chamber of the valve cover came out. I drive an audi with a 2.7 bi-turbo and oily air being sucked back into the turbo's under boost is a real issue. ...but a related issue is even worse, that is, crankcase pressure in the valve covers forces very annoying gasket leaks. Did the added pre-exit materials add to the gasket pressure while capturing oil from the crankcase air...? What were the consequences... ??
The valve cover never leaked before or after I added the ss scrub pads. It did reduce the oil being pushed out the vent side. Tho I did still get some still captured in the catch can, but 50% less…
Excellent video - so well explained thank you!
I always connect the breather port into the intake pipe so it has draw on it.....
Stainless mesh is good in a can because it has a great deal of surface area. This gives vapors entering the can the best chance to condense and fall harmlessly to the bottom of the can. Putting the mesh where you show it in the valve cover baffles will have the same condensing effect. Where does the condensate go then? Will the liquid then get sucked out the pcv valve?
Ideally it drains back down into the head and block
@@Seandoestech I am more inclined to think it will just get sucked out the pcv from the baffled area. Won’t there always be flow in that direction when the engine is running?
Such a great video! Your the man!!!
Quick question how would any of the application options differ if the car was a non turbo? v6 with pcv valve on front cover where oil filler cap is and the rear (closest to firewall VC has air inlet hose going back into the airbox...
Got eclipse 3.0 with worn rings and I get oil leaking out of my filler cap as well as smoke when filler cap is open. Was going to leave pcv as it is and try to modify my oil cap to vent or go into a catch can to relieve some crankcase pressure.. I don't care about venting off into the air as long as the smoke is not visible just don't want to suck in any air through that modified oil cap breather and possibly throw off MAF ...
Thanks to you and anyone else that could assist.
:)
Thanks man! I think the same principles apply for an NA engine. In your case, you’ll want to be sure the PCV valve is functional because will definitely impact crankcase pressure.
Can the setup apply to Hyundai gdi motor that are not boost it yet but are on their way because I change my spark plugs and found oil vapor in my air intake manifold I have a catch can on pcv valve now I want to try with a other one with a breather on the crankcase what do you think.
Rare good content thanks for all the info and detail!
very detail explanation and i fully understand. Thank you!!!
I'm confuse. With you're racing set up I have smoke from the breather of the catch can and you're pcv + wool for daily crankcase pressure still high. Any tips ? Thanks
Love the video, where and how would a crank case extraction system fit in? Would you just replace the pvc? Or would you need an oil catch can on the breather side?
Very easy to follow and use this in relation to completely different engine to understand all the options and pro and cons as to how to deal with venting my oroject
Can you do a video of blow by on a turbo engine?
Excellent video! Thanks
I have a catch can installed recently.
2006 mustang 4.0. I hooked it up to the passenger side pcv to the in on the catch can and the out to the air intake. The ccv straight to the air intake.
Is this a correct way to run this system?
Thanks.
Awesome and true explained.
Thanks for the video! Explains it very nicely. Wish I had watched this before building my supercharged Xterra. Just working on getting my rb25det running right now on my Stagea and trying to figure out the catch can situation. Looks like I will be redoing the Xterra as well :(
Great 👌👌👌,the way of explanation ❤️❤️❤️
Great video 👍
great video, thank you!
I had an issue with the PCV that caused engine surge which was solved by disconnecting the air intake hose from the PCV.. Can you explain what could be the cause of engine surge? Tks for you advice.
Change the PCV valve. The PCV (ball/spring) might be stucked
great video, i own a 1999 montero v6 gdi 3.5 litre and on the passenger side it has a PCV valve which is routed from the top of the passenger valvecase over to the drivers valvecase, then there is another pipe which then exits the drivers side back into the air filter housing before the throttle body, if im reading this right i would need ! catch can fitted inline on the PCV side to deal with off boost stuff then another catch can fitted inbetween the drivers pipe that exits that valve cover which eventually goes back into the air filter housing for on boost yes.. think im right here, maybe someone
verify this cheers
Very good knowledge.Thanks
i think something is not right at 5:00, I think it will suck unmeasured air into your intake manifold (air leak)
I pauzed it when you opened the occ the brass filter in the occ doesnt that restrict the flow like does it increase crankcase pressure i got a airtec one but i dont thrust the damn filter in it due to more pressure being created can someone tell me if im wrong or not good video tho
in my unit i installed occ but i removed the brush filter inside the occ beacuse it can restrict the air flow and can increase crankcase pressure that leads a damage to the engine
Today's engines no longer use a PCV valve like the one in this video!! Please show how the valve that is integrated into the rocker cover/valve cover works! They are relabeled as Crankcase Pressure Regulating Valve.
is it means that we have to put 2 oil catch cans one on breathing and other on PCV valve side? or just one ?
I don't know about Miatas specifically. I've got a Speed 6. and, there are a lot of variations. Some people just put one catch can on the breather side. That is basically the first-step version. Some people will put a second can on the PCV side, as you suggest. Or, some people will go the "race car" route and tie both sides into one catch can and then VTA. (Vent to atmosphere.) The "race car" route is definitely not emissions compliant.
Results? Curious what the final system configuration looks like.
Welp, the motors out again 🤣 but I basically ran a catch can on both the breather and pvc side. The breather side gets virtually no oil since I put the scrubber pad in the VC, but I get about 4 oz of oil out of the PVC side every 6k (I empty it every other oil change)
Boosted Miata Thanks for the information and I hope you can get your motor back. I have also been trying to troubleshoot the addition of an OCC to my 2017 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. I modified the hoses so they are spliced together 2 in 2 out and had to follow up with drilling pinholes in the oil cap to relieve pressure. I tried fitting the filter that came with the OCC to the oil cap but it was not relieving enough pressure. The system works great except for the oil misting up the engine bay. I am going to get a breather cap that hopefully solves that problem, but otherwise I am getting great results.
BTW I think the internal scrubber filter you added might be your engine trouble just for the fact that everything else you have done has some kind of equilibrium with the intake and output. Thanks for the video as it has helped me out a lot and for the fast response, I am a subscriber as of now.
They are not necessarily unburned Vapors
Would you please relook the update
excellent video
How did it work with the clean side connected to the intake tube? That's what in thinking of doing on my bosted Ls 5.3..
When I did it, it pulled oil into the turbo even through the catch can, so I just vented to air.
@HooverTuber damn. I have a elite oil cap that has a hose vent. I was gonna ad a small catch can and plumb to intake side of turbo...
Having this issue on my supercharged srt8
Don't you want a check valve on the breather side, because, under vacuum, on the intake manifold side - you're just adding pressure in the crankcase?
yeah if you install check valve in the breather it can add crankcase pressure maybe installing filter along with the breather hose is a good idea to prevent sucking dirt during vaccum
So can I install another catch-can to the breather filter side of the v8 dodge? or does all of your instruction applies only to a TURBO engine? I'm not a turbo guy, only trying to make my Dodge run better.
maybe it's a good idea to have a catch can for pcv and another catch can also for the breather
@@marcianc.biodor8798 thanks for the reply although it is long in coming.......
Since you’re not going to build boost in a naturally aspirated set up, having a catch can on the breather port probably not necessary unless you are seeing oil being pushed through the port.
Focus was on vapors. How about the crankcase pressure? Tnx
For serious crank case pressure‘s probably want to do the option I spoke about I called at the race car option where you drill out the breather port and the PVC port and then run some AN Dash 10 hose and connectors into a large vented to air catch can.
@@Seandoestech got yah but the pressure have now shifted to the catch can
@@michaelvanna8982 the catch can only acts as a separator vented out to your liking... nearly no internal pressure if the flow pipes are sized properly
✌🏻
Great food for thought on my build! Liked, subbed, bell'd
negative effects of venting both sides to a catch can on a street weekend car?
One is idle issues in some cars with stock tune.
Other than emissions? Well you’re not actively pulling vapors from your crankcase when not in boost. Some might consider that risky for oil seals in the engine.
@@Seandoestech thank you! :-)
it stinks the whole car up. I had it happen on idle and low speed driving
I have a boosted 1.6 NA. Both valve cover ports are vented to a single catch can that has a vent filter on it. This sort of works, but fills up fast. If you let it get too full, which only takes 100 to 200 miles, it starts saturating the vent filter and building up crankcase pressure, and making a mess. It is a very short term solution, no good for a daily driver, unless you want to empty that thing with every tank of gas.
I always thought that vacuum was supposed to be on the pcv valve side, is that wrong?
Vacuum is created by the intake manifold which pulls it through the PCV into the manifold and into combustion process.
@@Seandoestech can tie up or cover pcv valve using rubber stopper?
So when turbo or supercharging any piston or rotary engine, I can't just vent the crankcase breather to the intake of the compressor, because that will damage the turbo or supercharger? But if it's a naturally aspirated engine, then its perfectly ok to vent the breather into the carburetor or throttle-body intake?
....This makes me sad. Because if I want a boosted engine, then I'll need a catchcan, and all that oil, fuel, and water in the can, will just be discarded, instead of burning for power, and water becoming steam to clean the combustion chambers.
I really don't like that going to waste, and just adding to the maintenance & mess of an engine.
...
What if I do a Draw-through turbo setup, a carburetor on the intake of the turbo, instead of carburetors on each intake-port, and if the crankcase breather goes before the turbo carburetor, then won't the gas from the carburetor keep the compressor clean, from the breather vapors?
You can vent to the intake system and most off the shelf systems have some form of this, but there is a risk of pulling oil into the intake when it comes out the breather port, and the PVC port as well, as well. Burning the vapors is good for emissions but the oil is bad because it can increases knock as well as reduce the performance of intercoolers as it may coat the tubes.
@@Seandoestech
A Draw-Through turbo setup, does not require an intercooler, because the atomized fuel from the carburetor, has a cooling effect. And to cool it down even more, alcohol can be injected after the turbo compressor. But instead of doing that, I'm chilling the air that's entering the turbo's carburetor.
I just want to know how much of a cleaning effect, does a carburetor have, on everything behind it, even with a crankcase breather venting into it.
If it works with naturally aspirated engines, their intake ports & valves, then can it also work, on a compressor?
...
I didn't know oil increases knock.
How?
Carbon deposits?
And if I can chill the air/fuel mix, below ambient, even after the compressor.
Then wouldn't that greatly reduce any chance of knock? Even with high boost?
Or u can spend alittle more money and buy the provent 200 that can dosent create any more backpressure then running without can so its the best can outthere
can we cover pcv valve using stopper?
It needs to ventilate or crankcase pressures will blow out seals potentially.
I need to bye one of the pcv valves
Where will l the pcv valves to bye in Ghana
Where will l get the pcv valves to bye in Ghana
Wow that was great man!! 66
So when pcv valve close under boost so the breather became pcv so what about breathing cuz when air get sucked so engine need breather so what about breather...???
ali qadri the breather side is both under boost, there is no check valve on the breather side. Also you are not constantly in boost, so temporarily not having a breather is not an issue. However a race car that runs under boost significantly will used a non-PCV system where both the breather and PCV connections on the valve cover will run to an oil catch can with a vented to atmosphere filter. I explain this in the video.
@@Seandoestech yes, extremely well done presentation... 🤗
I do have a quick question for you =going from front mount to rear mount turbo on my satty. I know its not a miata, so hopefully you won't stop reading at this point! I got a copy of the STS pdf install guide just as a reference due to the rear mount nature of the kit (figured some things might be different). In the guide, they mention using a 1psi switch to open an actuator so that the pcv system doesn't see any boost. BUT, just watching this, It appears the stock pcv will stop boost coming from the intake into the engine/crankcase anyway, correct? Any ideas why they'd want to implement a separate system that seemingly is already accomplished with the stock pcv?
I’m not sure why, could just be for extra caution, so your not pushing oil into the intake. If you use a PCV valve, you want one that is designed for boost applications if possible. I use the Mazdaspeed version.
@@Seandoestech Thank you sir!
Could I trouble you for a part number? When you say mazdaspeed, for the 3 being that its factory turbo'd? I found a ford part number ev274? its a black and orange valve?
Kurt Bennett sure pcv valve is E301-13-890A
The last part with this stainless steel sponge thing is dangerous. You will cloag a lot specially pcv side.
agreed. should use the mesh in the can to precipitate out the liquids ... not the engine
I agree for most applications, this might be extreme, but if you find the catch cans filling up, it’s an option just keep the mesh loose, not dense, just enough to help mitigate the oil pushing through.
Bull. You can put a loose knit metal sponge inside the valve cover before the pcv or case vent. Infact many engines do this. Two off the top of my head Detroit Diesel 12.7s and jeep 4.0.
The Detroits are turbo'd and outside the valve cover the case vent is routed to a oil slinger that drops any remaining oil from the vapor and drains it back into the case usually at the timing cover.
So the most optimal way for a boosted car is to run some sort of a catch can from the breather side vented to atmosphere (while in boost) and a recirculated breather (block->breather->PCV) on the PCV side while not in boost (pulling vacuum).
Just trying to understand it correctly since English is not my main language it's kinda hard to understand certain terms.
Great video tho :)
For reference:
Have a b16 ~300hp@10psi
I want to delete the factory black box and run 2 hoses to a catchcan and 1 hose to factory PCV port.
My brain understands this as: vapours go to the catch can, seperate from oil and clean air goes back to PCV.
Sorry for the long post 🙂