Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Part 2)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- This is the conclusion to the rear suspension rebuild on a first generation Honda Pilot. It includes all control arms, dampers (shocks), rebooting the rear axles, replacing the stabilizer links and bushings, the right side parking brake cable, the rear brakes, the differential seals, and much more.
Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Part 1): • Honda Pilot Complete R...
Honda Pilot Complete Rear Suspension Rebuild (Full Version): www.ericthecar...
Be sure to check the links below for other videos about this Pilot project #ETCGHackHawk
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Tools
Hood Prop (Brake Pedal Holder): www.jbtools.co...
Eastwood Rust Encapsulator: www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Internal Frame Coating: www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Chassis Black Paint: www.eastwood.c...
Fluid Extractor: www.jbtools.co...
Seal Removal Tool: www.jbtools.co...
Impact Driver: www.jbtools.co...
Drum Brake Tools: www.jbtools.co...
Plastic Vice Guards: amzn.to/3DpJVuJ
LOCTITE Sticks: www.amazon.com...
Parts
R Parking Brake Cable: 47520-S3V-A11
Differential Seals: 91206-PGJ-013
Stabilizer Bar Bushings: 52306-S3V-A00
Stabilizer Links: 52325-S3V-023
CV Boot Outer: 42018-S9V-A50
CV Boot Inner: 42017-S9V-010
Front Differential Bolt: 90161-S3V-A01
R Control Arm: 52371-S3V-A00
L Control Arm: 52372-S3V-A00
Dog bone Control Arms: 52345-S0X-A01
Adjustable Upper Control Arms: www.1aauto.com...
Cam Bolt Kit: 06520-S0X-C00
Upper Spring Seat: 52686-S3V-023
Dampers (Shocks): 52610-S9V-A02
R Lower Control Arm: 52350-S9V-A00
L Lower Control Arm: 52372-S3V-A00
Subframe Bolts: 90160-S0X-A00
Related Videos
How To Repair Structural Rust Damage: • How To Repair Structur...
Bodywork Without Welding: • Bodywork Without Welding
Honda Pilot Rear Bumper Replacement: Video link posted when available
2003 Honda Pilot Inspection This Thing Needs Help: • 2003 Honda Pilot Inspe...
MOOG Sucks: • MOOG Sucks
Parking Brake Shoe Replacement: • Parking Brake Shoe Rep...
CV Boot Replacement: • How To Replace CV Boot...
How To Remove Rusted or Damaged Fasteners: • How To Remove Rusted o...
#ETCGHackHawk Playlist: • 2003 Honda Pilot Inspe...
Type R Playlist: • EricTheCarGuy Gets an ...
Dads Truck Series: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
The Fairmont Project: • ETCG Gets a New Car! -...
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0:00 Introduction
46:03 Torque Specs
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®.
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I would suggest you Fluid Film the undercarriage once you're totally done. That and the rust encapsulator will be permanent. I did that to my rust 03 F150 and those two things halted rust.
the way you explained and demonstrated the elliptical bolt's motion and effect at 21:21 just demystified wheel alignment for me. i've had an idea of how it works but that little clip made it all make sense for me, so thanks for that.
I'm glad you found that useful. It's my goal to help people understand things. It's always great to hear when I've actually accomplished that. Thanks for your comment.
I already appreciate people who Fix stuff and show you how its done properly, but I have a next level of appreciation for those who show the part numbers in said videos.
I agree. And based on past experience, using Honda parts is the best way to avoid future time and aggravation.
I’m a parking brake guy too. I learned to drive in hilly San Francisco. If a car runs away down a hill, it happens, and the parking brake wasn’t set, you’re in big trouble.
Nice job on the rear suspension job.
Agreed, I decided to go ahead and replace the shoes on my brother's 06 when I overhauled the suspension as I discovered that the parking brake wasn't holding on a hill when I tested it with the car in neutral. There's a good chance that I could've adjusted the shoes and then the parking brake probably would work just fine, but I figured that since the car had well over 200k and was over 10 years old, who knows how much life those shoes had left. Plus at the time my brother was getting ready to move to Virginia, where they do in fact have State safety inspections, and a faulty parking brake is a failure point for that. So I wanted to make sure that it was something that was going to last and not present any problems in the future.
Congrats on finishing up the rear end. As you've said before, most folks would have condemned her as being to costly to repair, but sometimes there are other considerations than dollars and cents. Hellava lot of work. Well done!
Thank you!
@@tammylott921 thx for being such a positive contributor, how about posting videos of your own rebuilding a vehicle you prefer...?
@@fcex558 weird, there was one who defamed Eric with some random insult but it appears to have been removed
@@ericthecarguy Why you didn't clean the rust at 35:00?
Completely fascinating and I don't even own a Honda. They're all basically similar, at least my Kia is. So thanks for all the info, well worth the watch.👍 Thank you.
Now you’ve entered my world as a rustmeister, as I have been chasing rust around my ‘01 Jeep TJ for 5+ years. I haven’t used Rust Encapsulator Plus, but I have used the non-plus encapsulator in combination with Eastwood Rust Converter. I was disappointed by the performance of those products, and to keep it relatively short, what I found is that you must cover the encapsulator with a top coat paint. Must. My memory is that the instructions on the encapsulator said top coating was optional - oh no it’s not! Even in places under the car where you think there is no exposure to UV light - top coat it. It’s more work & time yes, but I think it will help keep the rust monster from quickly returning. For my latest round of rust hunting I decided to try POR-15 instead, since I am just completing this on the frame and underbody I can’t say yet whether POR-15 + POR Chassis Top Coat is better, worse or the same as Eastwood. Time will tell. I also tried the new Eastwood Platinum rust product on the front half of my frame, so I’ve got a long term experiment going on which Product is better. I will say with POR-15, it’s clear that good thorough proper prep is King, so it’s a LOT of work. Lastly, for small and midsize parts like your rusted floor tray, I derust those parts using the electrolysis method. Electrolysis leaves no mystery that every spec of rust has been removed. It too is time consuming to let the electrolysis do it’s thing, but I am a fan of that method if you want to be sure Mr Rust is deader than a rusty door nail. Every year I go on a rust hunt and inspect the car for new or recurring rust. I wish I had a lift for that! Thanks!
Thank you for that info.
Very informative @Mike Hartmann
When I bought a brand new or used car, I just do a full detailed underwash and spray with WD-40 White Lithium Grease all over connections, joints, bolts, electrical wiring sockets, etc. I'm surprised the chemical stays there like forever, it prevented water, rust and it doesnt fllused away with water and mud. I just have to do a full detailed underwash and lithium spray twice a year. Car looks brand new without signs of rust when the old lithium coat is removed for a fresh new spray. The lithium grease looks like a aerosol white paint because it stays there and doesnt run even after a few months. But nobody goes under to check how your car looks like.
@@bethzarin6439 to try and shorten up my long note here, I omitted my intention to spray Fluid Film over the POR-15 work I’ve just completed. POR15 takes 4 days to fully cure, so I’ve wrapped up that work and will wait the 4 days and then apply the Fluid Film.
Such a satisfying repair -- watching all the rusty junk be replaced with new (or refurbished, freshly-pained) parts. Reminds me of when I rebuilt the suspension on my '68 Galaxie 500 convertible. It all looked so great when it was done.
Looks like there was a bit of water intrusion.
Car looks good didn't expect that amount of rust on the inside.
it isn't. Thats how every 10 year old car's floor will look in the rust belt if you don't clean your carpets and use weathertech floormats otherwise all the snow/salt from your shoes melts and goes right on your floor
@@Motorsportsgeek and stays wet forever! (and stinks)
The amount of camera work you do to get us these videos through the years is amazing and underappreciated.
Thank you!
Just saw a video where a guy is doing a 2 year comparison between Eastwood and Rustoleum rust remover and encapsulators, along with Ace HW. TLDR; surprisingly Eastwood seems way overpriced for performance, and Rustoleum Reformer is very close runner-up, which is nice as its only $7 at Tru Value. Bother work even better if you throw a coat of cheap exerior paint over the top too. Also a good video here: ua-cam.com/video/oXlhmbvdKBo/v-deo.html
If I got a Honda project (which I do on a non-stop basis) I go to EricTheCarGuy. Did my timing belt on a 2000 Civic and a steering rack for the same car. The Hayes Manual is there for show. 😂
This is the most work I've ever seen anyone perform on a $500 car
Eric's experience shows when his guesses on torque specs are all in range.
Here in the Philippine countryside we don't even know what is torque is, I've never seen and used an actual torque wrench even now. I just see it on youtube. We just hand feel everything and the cars lifespan is just the same with any car maintained by the dealership or some fancy motor shop. What we do is we don't buy Ford because it's too high tech system and buggy computers, BCM and other stuff often fails and you cannot fix it when your in the mountains. You can't even replace a fucking light bulb without taking it to the fancy motorshop.
I remember one time he didn't follow the torque spec it came back to haunt him. He had did some work on a Mini Cooper and ended up having to repeat the job. I believe it was a part that was bolted to the crank.
@@Rhaspun Yeah, that's German engineering for you, near zero tolerance and out of spec everything goes kaput.
32:16 one thing i've started doing lately is to sleeve the connectors, fill the sleeve with dielectric grease on both ends, and then tie the ends over the connection with copper wire wraps. It's an old boatie trick a friend taught me to do, and it really does the trick for connectors under the car.
This series is fresh air in a putrid disposable society! Thank you, Eric!
All of us, and everything is disposable. That’s just life….
Great job nice to have a nice place to work very informative. You must edit out all the curse words LOL.
Looks like someone has been driving through rivers in that Honda.
So much rust inside. Either that or you have serious water ingress from somewhere.
Good informative video as always Eric Great work @EricTheCarGuy
This kind of videos is why I love ETCG
I could watch all day!
Nice catch on the CV axle cup falling out. Stinks to pull it apart again, but at least it only cost some time and a boot clamp.
Refreshing to see a rebuild like this. Many would have taken it to the scrap yard. This video is practically inspiring me to go find a 1st gen AWD, rebuild the front and rear suspensions (maybe add a small lift) and make it an off-road vehicle. Love when I see these done up like that.
Corrosion X is your friend in your area and it is electrical safe we spray our controllers and servos with it on our rc boats and anything else that mite grow fungus aka rust
Hats off to ya E.C. !!! You're correct, what a journey, and to have filmed it added stop and go time. Thank you for what you do Sir!
Imagine caring enough that you put in all the money time and effort to restore a Honda pilot.
Well done Eric!
Because working on car is so satisfying, specially when it's installed clean, no rust, sprayed with WD-40 all over underneath and everything is greased and oiled.. I'm not even a mechanic, I'm an Architect but I love fixing and cleaning my cars on my own.
welp, never gonna own a pilot or ridgeline. i am not even remotely impressed with how these things hold up to body corrosion.
Yep my son’s 2004 rear dust shield rusted and was making noise and now he needs to replace them.
Non stop source of noises
So I get the impression that the rear diff requires VTM4 fluid.
don't have but enjoy watching the streaming video awesome!
Been waiting soooo long for part two. Cant wait to watch it!
Hey, Eric. Quick question from a weekend warrior: Why did you decide to lube up the bolts with oil vs using anti-seize?
fluid film or something over all that. Your paint will thank you later
It's a shame in a typical Honda fashion, the drainage is very poor and easily clogged. There's also moisture insulation issue. Any one of these or both likely lead to water intrusion into the cabin, which resulted in collecting at the parking brake spot and slowly leaking out through the holes for the cables.
GREAT JOB ERIC!!! Such emphasis on detailing as usual. I'm IN PA, so ANOTHER rust belt state. Ppl will probably cringe, but I anti seize ALL my suspension parts, except rubber & silicone those. I've never had anything come loose. Love how u encapsulated parts/painted. I have OCD, I'd prob fluid film when I was done. I get excited on fixn vehicles like u did. It keeps it on the road. Everytime I drove it, I appreciate the job I did & the vehicle ALSO. Money doesnt grow on trees, so I appreciate simple things. Thanks for showing tightening on ground,wished u would say what u were tightening. Looks SUPER!!🙌 Ppl will see ur shiny suspension parts driving behind u!😁Will u be doing anything to front suspension being u mentioned it? Ur SO interesting/down to earth guy! I'm not even DOING this job but it's so damn interesting!! Great video! 🇺🇸
Thank you. I tightened all the fasteners on the ground. I thought I covered that just before that part of the video. Sorry if it wasn't clear. Yes, I will be covering the front suspension when I drop the front subframe to replace the transmission. Here's a video detailing my plans for this vehicle. ua-cam.com/video/11nl6FCkr-s/v-deo.html
There's an Australian guy on YT who was a Mechanical Fastener Engineer, and has the skinny on proper torqueing of fasteners. When you lube them, even 'lightly', they are classified as a lubed fastener, and in general require ~30% less torque than when 'dry'. May not be critical for some parts if they are over-tightened, others is definately is. IIRC, John Cadagan is his name.
The term is lightly oiled.
I've also spoken to engineers. My take away is, it's not the torque, it's the stretch that creates the clamping force. Therefore I think of fasteners as springs. I'm not saying proper torque isn't important, quite the opposite, but as I said in the video before this one, over time you get a 'feel' for what a fastener is doing. Thanks for your comment.
Really good stuff! That was a massive amount of work.
How about putting anti-seize on the axle "teeth" instead of WD40? Those tend to be a pain to remove if they get seized up real bad.
I don't think that's an appropriate use of antisieze. I think that will mostly just make a mess. WD40 is a rust inhibitor, and a good one at that.
Hello. Once again, I enjoyed watching your video. You are a terrific mechanic, diagnostician and teacher. What impresses me the most is your honesty and integrity towards your clients. You treat them as if they were family. As a police officer, I always try to meet those expectations from our "clients" as well. Honesty and professionalism!! Well done. Congrats.
Thank you for what you do, and for your comment. Both are appreciated.
Thanks Eric you da best:)
Looking really good Eric. Good catch on the cv joint.
Hay Eirc, thanks for the info on those rusty bolt sockets( I forgot the name) that I just used yesterday on the battery tray of my 08 civic. They did a dam good job of getting the bolts out!!! You take care and I'm gonna stay dirty.......
Time to comment about using the parking brake. I recommend using it. Last year we had a bad wind storm and power was out for a while. Just wanted to charge the mobile. My driveway is on a hill. Got lucky didn't hit anyone. But the neighbors house it crushed the down spout that was easily bent straight with a screwdriver. Don't be me.
It's always satisfying watching you work, Eric. Plenty of tips and tricks picked up to apply to my own vehicles. I've got 4 in the fleet and something is always needing done. I thank you for your time and expertise! - Long time subscriber.
Thank you and good luck with your future repairs.
@3:27 WOW !! Even y'alls styrofoam rusts up there! I recently recovered an accord with leaking sunroof drains from a swamp in Florida that has way less rust then this Acura.
I just don't understand the lack of use of a parking break, especially with an auto transmission... Why would you want the weight of your car resting on the transmission instead of your break - something it was designed to do?
The Honda Pilot was manufactured in Lincoln, Alabama in the USA. I wonder how many people that worked there watch this channel?
This video was brought to you by loctite antisieze sticks lol
Just kidding Eric. Enjoyed the video as always!! They actually look pretty handy, might get me some!!
You've mentioned people not using parking brake (hand brake here in uk), must be an American thing, we use the handbrake all the time here. But then again we mostly use manuals!
They are really useful. ua-cam.com/video/QIYkCqBNibs/v-deo.html
@@ericthecarguy yea I watched that video when you posted it, they seem really useful indeed!! I actually have a tin of anti seize and use an old stiff paint brush, I started doing that after one of your first videos you did the same thing. Looked less messy than my finger lol. But I might change again thanks to your good self haha. Even got them snap on line wrenches after seeing them, the stronger open end side is awesome!! Just wish I could get a lift like you have next!! I'm like the Eric of 8 years ago, using nothing but trolley Jack's!
Anti seize on the shank, to keep your gear in good working order.
Great job Eric!
I just can't get over the fact that this video series was posted TWO YEARS AGO. Like, where?!?!??
I hope you get a shop again soon my friend. No one deserves it more than you do. Maybe soon something good will happen and you CAN get that dream shop you deserve.
Take care, and of course, as always....stay dirty.
Eric sure is a top notch mechanic 👨🏼🔧
Great video thank you
almost looks like this thing was in a flood... Seems to be even more rust on the inside floor than there is underneath... like it held water for a while? weird. (although, there's plenty underneath too). I live in Oklahoma, I don't see any of this type of salt belt rust--- I don't know how you guys deal with it. lol.. There's no way I could ever buy a new car living in an area like that--- knowing it's gonna be destroyed before I can even pay it off.. what a bummer.
When I worked at the Acura dealer we had an MDX of about the same vintage come in with a water leak that was contaminating the fuse box behind the LF kick panel. It turned out that they forgot to put body sealer on one of the seams behind the door pillar. Perhaps this Pilot has the same issue. I plan to check for that in a future episode. BTW, the MDX is just an expensive Honda Pilot.
@@ericthecarguy Yeah,I'm aware. I actually bought an AWD, 2002 Acura MDX for $1700 a couple years ago.. 3 rows of leather, heated seats and mirrors, big moon roof. Only had 160k miles, 90% tire tread all around. AC blows stupid cold and really hard. Has the 3.5l vtek, Not a drop of oil leaking anywhere on it, not a single sign of rust (again, I live in Oklahoma, so we don't have rust here typically).. I absolutely love this thing, and I feel like I stole it... The only one thing that is wrong with it is the center screen doesn't work-- but sometime when it gets really cold outside, it will suddenly turn on and work for the first few minutes of driving, until the car warms up and then the screen just shuts off again.. Doesn't matter to me, I'd just assume take it out and put in a big "Din cubby hole, or something.... Between Honda/Acura and Toyota/ Lexus... and the Big four motorcycle brands--- I love Japanese engineering. I can't get enough of it.. I have several used dirtbikes and several more quads that I've picked up as projects along the way and I take time to fix them and get them running... The Japanese know how to engineer things.
My thoughts as well.
Big job, nice work.
Just awesome!!! Thank you for this video...😁
Hey Eric, when you re-boot the axles is it a warm boot or a cold boot? 😛
Also boot: what's the order you boot the axles on ;)
Good point. You don't wanna mess up the boot sequence.
@@michaelblacktree exactly.. or if there's an alternative to using the hard/solid state drive and ya wanna use it lol
My Friday is complete. Many thanks for sharing the journey.
Really enjoyed seeing Eric save the Pilot. But cannot find any footage on the weld repair of the subframe mount points. Really appreciate Eric’s work.
Surprised you kept the rear springs, though you switched them. I have 177k on my '08 Pilot and just had the springs replaced, they were sagging terribly. Perhaps yours had its springs replaced before you acquired it? Or maybe just didn't have as much weight in the rear over its life - mine is used for light towing perhaps 12 days a year.
/we just got a Honda 2005 and all you are doing is helping us. We The Few appreciate learning from you...OORAH!!
Eric
Your awesome man. Impact guns have really changed everything versus wrenching on everything. It looks like you taking things to a next level. I have always wondered why more people don't undercoat or take steps to prevent problems in the future. I understand that you have to stop somewhere. Now that you have taken things to another level will it be difficult to go back to just bolting on new parts.
Your a awesome mechanic and my goto on UA-cam when I'm researching.
Thank you!!
8:10 that's what she said
Notification squad!👍🏻 have a good weekend!👍🏻🔥🔥
Thanks for all of the Honda videos! Great quality "how to" and teaching!
Great work Eric!!! And a lot of it. I find there are a lot of people who look at the cost of repairs and then the value of the vehicle, and say you're putting more money into it than it's worth. You should replace it. But on the other side is you own that vehicle that can be rebuilt for the cost of a down payment on a new or newer vehicle minus the car payments. I'm doing it myself after watching tons of videos by you and a few other guys who work on Hondas. I greatly appreciate your attention to detail. Some just bolt it back together not concerned about breaking new bushings or wearing parts out before their time because they didn't wait to tighten bolts after they were on a full weight load. I quit watching those dudes.
My mechanic told me it was time to replace it, but I'm replacing all the suspension on my 97 CR-V and all I can say is 1) it's a simpler system and 2) thank goodness I don't live in the rust belt. I have no rust on the underside; just a little corrosion on some of the bolts (???) that came out of the subframe in front. Water must have gotten into the bolt holes while I was fording street flood water during heavy rains. I coated them all with blue thread locker after brushing the corrosion off, cleaning them with oil and wiping the heck out of them to get the oil off using very little solvent just on the threads. I'm not too pleased with my mechanic who never changed the rear differential fluid or the transmission fluid even though they were due at least when the timing belt was changed. My manual says at 60,000 miles for the transmission.
I also replaced the steering rack and that was just hell on that vehicle. I did it right after someone stole my catalytic converter, saving me from dropping the exhaust, but I still had to drain the trans and drop the AWD transfer case, and found out I will need a new shifter cable. (The transmission fluid was worse than very old sludgy oil). Something kept hitting me in the head while I was under the truck and it wasn't wet. When I put the transfer case back I saw the cable has a huge hole in it and it's failing strand-by-strand. The cover ripped and the cable is brittle from age and slowly breaking.
Bad ass mechanic right here! Excellent video to show me mortals how it's done! Impressive stuff
My rear springs need replacing on my 2011 pilot, will the muffler be in the way when I drop the control arm 🤔
My 2007 pilot has some rust in the rear, I am planning to dress it as soon as the cold goes away. I’m definitely buying new screws for the alignment adjustments. Thank you for showing us the proper way to work back there.
Question, how did you weld that part where the subframe frame attaches to the body? Do you have like a diagram or a video of how you did it? Thanks! My pilot doesn’t show rust around that area but I’ve seen that it’s common for that area to rust real bad and the subframe could detach from the body. Thank you again!
I have to do this eventually on my 04 MDX. I have a nasty pull to the right on crowned road surface. Everything in the front has been done. All of the bushings in the rear are trashed at 265k miles. Have had it since new might as well keep going. Thanks for the videos!
Excellent Video!!!
I'm glad I don't live in the snow belt. Lot's of quality work.
The pump for the differential fluid looks like the standard pump for sta-lube brand gear oil bottles.
Can someone help me! I swap a new pair of sway bars links for the rear of my Honda pilot 2006 and the clunking noise persist, what can I check or change ?
What a great video
Eric! I just snapped a bolt into the frame of the rear diff mount in my CRV and had to EZ out it. The OEM bolts are 1.25 10x96.5 but 10x100 worked well, if you're in a pinch unti OE can come in.
Really enjoying this series, Eric. Thanks for making the videos. 👍
These Pilot's rear driveshafts have no direct connection to the drivetrain unless the electronic systems are engaging AWD. This Borg-Warner rear end has no differential (spool) and therefore cannot have a direct connection to the wheels or it would quickly destroy the tires. Instead the computer engages clutch packs at each driveshaft to drive the rear wheels as it deems necessary. Therefore you should be able to do parking brake adjustments with the driveshafts connected and the vehicle in park.
Speaking of using the parking break. I like to use mine with the automatic transmission. When I park my car/ Honda pilot I hold the service brake put it in neutral and apply the park brake then put in park. No pressure is on park.
Okay,I’m going to be “that guy”
You are saying foot pound but showing the abbreviation for pound foot these are 2 different units of measure.
Nice job. Absent the frame welding work, would you have any idea what it would cost to redo the rear suspension like you just did?
When I see all that rust, I'm glad I don't have to deal with that in Cali.
you must really like this car, unless you really like playing with your gear ! You definitely have one thing against you.... not saying I can, but you need to learn how to weld.
These are so enjoyable and informative to watch, Eric, thank you! And may I say - is it just me, or do you really look younger and younger with every new video?
Two of my cars are automatics and I don't think twice. I always apply my parking brake. It's there for a reason and if you look at some of those transmissions, those notches that hold the transmission when in park are not that robust...
Really annoying that Honda uses those bolts with the ridges on only one or two spots on each suspension corner. Every control arm bolt should be like that, especially on rust belt vehicles.
Wow Ive never seen a Honda with rust on the floor pan like that. Yeah much as I love my Acura/Hondas i would let it go. Since it rust out fast.
So satisfying when you know how to put all the whatnots back together! For a lay man that looks like 10k jigsaw puzzle 😂
Is there a reason that you choose to use WD40 instead of anti-sieze on the axle spline at 17:57? I've used anti-seize before on the spline but I'm not sure if it's safe or recommended. Does anti-seize not provide any rust prevention? Any insight is greatly appreciated! :)
I don't think antisieze is appropriate in that application. As I said in the video, WD40 is a rust inhibitor, and a very good one at that. I hope that helps.
Wow, ton of work. Great video but as a DYI type I'm afraid I would be scrapping the vehicle or parting it out. Hope it lasts you a good long time.
Honestly if a 'customer' brought me this Pilot I would recommend scrapping it. One of the reasons I'm making this series of videos is to show how expensive SUV service and maintenance can be. Although I never expected to have to deal with all this rust which has driven up the cost of repairs considerably. Thanks for your comment.
PA inspection sounds similar to Maryland currently a Maryland state inspector, you have a video discussing your time as a inspector?
Do you ever wonder what it would have been like if you were Toyota or Lexus tech first, your channel would be so much different,
As a DIYer that is afraid of breaking the bolt off or not getting it tight enough, I really appreciate those torque specifications. I couldn't care less how you assemble your own projects, but it scares me if I don't torque almost everything. So, with sincerity, thank you for the information.
Thank you for being reasonable about that. I really appreciate your comment.
The question is how much is it worth your time to do a car restoration vs buying another car.
Thank you Eric love watching your videos and can learn from you I am watching from South Africa
Always nice to see you in the comments. Have a great weekend.
Eric I have the exact problem can you fixed like yours and how much it will cost.
Very nice work Eric
I appreciate all your videos. I really won't be working on cars much anymore, but I love your knowledge and all the how-too pieces. Just great and thank you so much.
Thank you!
Nice one Eric
A lot work for old Honda you can buy same Honda no rust in wa state for cheap and fix transmission or engine but work in enjoying to watch
Another thorough job by the master mechanic! Love the videos!
Men - ABS and handbrake line screws I replaced with stainless steel screws. Easy and always shiny.
This was very fun to watch, thank you!
I am a PA safety and emissions inspector and he's right about parking brakes not working. That's just the start on what the state wants us to check