Or just miter an extra 1 or 2 degrees in the other direction, then caulk what remains. Just put a speed square up to it so u know whether it is more or less than 90. Assuming you can't just eyeball it (u probably can).
Not hard at all. This trick works great. A complete noob can do it. I should know. I learned it from my father-in-law in 2 minutes. This guy is trying too hard.
Try fitting out 11 apartments a week by fiddling around with an angle gauge and messing around with the turn table on the drop saw all day. You wouldn't make a profit.
Dude-you cut it short. Always a bit long and spring into place. It’ll keep the coped joint tight. And the long piece should always face the room entry to minimize the possibility of seeing the joint.
Maybe he was planning to but a flat end on the opposite wall aswell . Then take his cut length and make the same cut on the opposite side . Slot it in between the two .
@@davidbrogan606 Totally agree. I coped the main room and thought I'd save time by mitering in the closet where it was less seen. Definitely spent more time getting the joints just right on the miters.
Hi, I noticed that too, when I was doing my baseboards years ago. I taught myself how to do that and I did mine by cutting it with a saw... 😊Thanks for sharing though!❤❤
@@jimmykaci8352 I have to disagree. With a hand coping saw, you can just start cutting, and add a slight back-bevel which makes your joint super tight. By the time he resets his miter saw from 45° to straight, cuts partway, then reaches for his grinder, Id have been done.
A coped corner is faster than a 45. Takes some skill, but no electric, no batteries, no extension cord, one measurement. faster to caulk if it needs it. Crown molding, cope it.
@@brandonsolorzano860 Technique is exactly the same 45 cut and follow the intersecting line with your coping saw. A couple of provisos. Crown moldings are not 45 to the ceiling,, My memory, about 54 degrees? so take care when placing in the chop saw that the wall contact flats are flat to the saw. I am mildly dyslexic,, I must maintain a sample in front of me,, because, there are 8 possible 45s and 4 of them are useless. (inside, outside, left right, and then upside down versions,, and on the saw you are working upside down to the ceiling. Total mind f*** for someone who has difficulty with left and right.) The trick with the coping saw itself,, when coping a baseboard a little inside angle on the cut, and a little over long helps with the final install,, SAME on the crown BUT saw with the coping saw blade in the same alignment as the ceiling will be in,, with that similar slight inside tilt. The extreme benefit when you get proficient at the cuts,,, no 90 ceiling corner ,, plastered or drywall is 90 degrees. IT JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN,,, three intersecting 90 degree angles with plasterers or tapers slinging mud against the ceiling,, never perfect. A COPED crown molding,, just slide it up or down as a unit and you will find a position where it is tight. As it slides up or down the wall to crown angle changes and will adapt to whatever the corner angles are' Always do the easiest. Normally one end will be coped,, the other end butts square end into the next corner,, on around the room. Outside corners are often small. Do the outside corner 45 to 45, with the ends square cut, and cope the long piece coming into it. The coped end pins the small piece effectively and the outside corner can be assembled before it goes up. ALSO Learn to swear like a sailor,, a needed skill,, and do it when the homeowner or wife is not there, so you can sweep the dust and blue smoke out before they return. And if you are mildly dyslexic,, you will KNOW you are before you finish.
Wood putty that matches. Because you have to use it anyway. Unless you don't, and what kind of true carpenter doesn't want his final product looking perfect?
That is fair, we generally just don't work jobs that call for that, keeps us moving. It's good that there are craftsmen around still putting the time in. Most idiots can throw together some trim, come behind them and spackle the hell out of it to pretty it up. Keeps the cost down, works well for people who don't want to pay as much or can't afford to. I think both have their place.
I started coping baseboard in the 1970's when I was a finish carpenter subcontractor. There are also a lot of other tricks installing baseboard to make it look a lot more professional.
F🥰😎kin' ingenious & brilliant! I am a new subscriber because of this amazing video. It's people like you who think outside the box, like I do, & we come up with a way, better solutions or ways of doing things that actually work better than the standard or traditional way. U're a rock star, dude😎💥🌟! I can't wait to OD, on your videos! Please, keep them coming, and could you please, make a video, on better ways of caulking baseboard to floor. Thanks, this was a lifesaver, as I am now, learning how to cut molding/baseboards, and I am a woman, and it drives me insane that women don't try to learn tasks that are predominately associated with males. I think women should learn to be self-sufficient, and women should be able to pick up any power tool, with the same authority and confidence of a man. Thanks for sharpening my newly acquired skill set. I learned a lot, from many, of the men in my life, and I have loved Powertools, since I was a young girl, and it has come in very handy, throughout my life. Not to mention, I truly love working with power tools & fixing things as well as creating, & I'm all about being innovative, & thinking of a new ways of accomplishing all tasks, more proficiently & perhaps with even better results, then the ways of old! 🎉There's nothing wrong with reinventing the wheel because sometimes the wheel is from the Flintstone's era! Much love and respect for your genius, skill set. I've often found that many contractors, in the business for 20+ years, are stuck in the past and truly afraid to deviate from their, pedestrian, & even archaic, ways of doing things, and they don't realize that they could do a job, perhaps more, efficiently, proficiently, with even better results than the best results, they've ever accomplished. I truly believe that learning any skill set is never completed, and there's always room to learn new and better ways of doing anything and everything, and this doesn't just apply to construction, but all things, in life. Anyone who thinks that there's nothing new to learn, even about what they already know, is really being narrow-minded and missing out on, sharpening their skill set and making their job more interesting, exciting, and even more expedient, and getting things done faster. It doesn't necessarily mean that because someone has learned a new way, of accomplishing a task, more efficiently and expediently that they're cutting corners, and thus producing a sub par or an unprofessional result! It's this limited way of thinking and faulty logic that prevents even the most seasoned construction worker, from resisting a new way of doing things. Furthermore, they also think that learning a new way is not accomplishing the task And outcome in a durable, lasting, and aesthetically pleasing way, I don't know why people think learning more proficient ways, with sometimes a better outcome, than what they have been doing prior, is cutting corners or not doing the job correctly. I always want to learn a more innovative, and/or proficient way, about doing an old job. Therefore, when one is, too or totally, close minded about learning, innovative ideas, that are brilliant, such as is demonstrated, in this awesome video, they're truly missing out on such brilliant ideas as yours. Sorry for the long comment, but your video really inspired me to point out, why it is always a good idea to be open minded and adopt new and more brilliant ways of doing things. I can't wait to learn more from you. Thanks for your amazing video, and I would imagine the rest of your videos, would follow suit.🥰🎁💥😎🌟
Good message for trim work. The far end of your cut is way off the wall. Your cope also isn't as tight as it could be. Back cut/sand the cope a little bit for a tighter fit. If the walls are out of plumb or the floor out of level, your cope should follow accordingly. You can also cope the end before cutting the square end to final length. Cut the trim a little on the long side and flex the trim into place to check the cope and adjust if need be. Then cut the square end to final length. This also enables you to re-cope if it comes out messed up the first time around. The angle grinder with the flap wheel is the way to go, along with a dremel sanding drum for smaller radii. The way you take out the large amount of material with the miter saw is great. Good work intent. Keep it up!
@@thecsciworker291 No. Just no... There is almost a 3/4" gap to the right of the baseboard because he cut the baseboard at the length he measured then mitered it for "coping".
@Phillip Kirby I went through the comments just to look for someone calling this out. Agreed, that gap is unnecessary, and anyone posting these kinds of videos should be aware of the high standards us viewers have 😊
@@thomasohanlon1060There are different tools that are commonly used to achieve the same result in the same amount of time. It doesn't matter what you use to get there, the advice is sound
I used to set my miter saw a tiny fraction over 45 degrees so the the visible part is normally a tight fit and I put a caulk bead on the face of one of the miter. Then when I push the another miter into it, I nail it and wipe out the squeeze out. I sometimes used construction adhesive in the joint, instead
If you cut the board slightly too big and spring it into place, the sharp edge of your cope will actually cut into the next piece making a perfect seam with zero caulk necessary.
@@balipan09 Correct, I also use the technique you mentioned but that doesn't give you a perfect miter unless you exactly know the angle of the inside corner. So instead of measuring every miter, I set my saw to 46 degrees and the visible part of the joint will usually touch, unless the angle is even more out of square, but I will cut a piece of scrap mounding at 45 degrees to cut the angle of the existing corner for square first.
The back piece should be the one cut straight on both sides, this allows the coped piece too but up. This hides any slight imperfections from view for your finished product!
From what view? There's 360 degrees of wall in a room, so you'll always be looking at atleast one cope. Doing it this way however makes it impossible to remove just that one piece if it ever need replacing.
@Joshua Powers Great question! It's a bit subjective, but first choice should be from where you walk into the room. If that isn't conclusive, then the most commonly occupied are of the room (usually the centerish)
@@joshuapowers4623 always from the door or room entry. Always. Just like you always lap your trim bevel away from your main entry. In a room with multiple doors, like a living area, you just do what you can. Only other rule in that type of area is don't break (join) your trim over a door or window header...try to run it solid over headers and join it somewhere down the line. People tend to look over headers more than they do blank walls. Don't know why. Just the way I was always taught. Probably doesn't much matter but it's tried and true as my dad always says.
Coping was done in the old days cause miter saws weren't invented till the 60s. We might as well plaster and lath our walls again. Nail your mouldings with a hammer and nails. Lol Measure your angles if you want tight joints, much quicker. Especially for crown mouldings. If you look carefully, the joint isn't even tight. After all that time wasted, it doesn't even look good. He needs to caulk anyways.
Incorrect, coping is done because it leaves it tight and less likely to crack in the future and more professional but hey if that’s how u roll u do u just don’t work for me
Coping provides the toughest fit, always room for error when transferring measurements to a saw. And coping is faster as you aren’t always adjusting your saw
@@Lady_Hiccups you are constantly changing the angle of the saw. This way it’s 45 and 0 degrees only and using this method when accustomed to it takes literally 2 minutes or less. You don’t have to measure every corner and then transfer that to your saw. I’ve done both and prefer this as it’s less room for error. 1 and done
@Jonathan Baxter Oh, I understood the point all right. The point was to set up a saw to make the rough cut, then use your heavy right angle grinder to carefully back cut and sculpt around the top portion. I've been doing this a long time, and I know for sure I can cut a baseboard with a coping saw in far less time than this, and with cleaner results.
I disagree that this looks good because it’s not finished! It’s always one of the first things I notice when people cope then don’t take the extra effort to make it look good. To make a cope cut look good you still have to use paintable caulking and touch it up so what’s the point when you do the same with a 45 degree cut with a 1/4 of the time taken?
44° inside corners, 46° outside corners. Gets you decent joints most of the time, and you're going to be caulking no matter what you do. Coping takes time and time is money.
I had my trim done buy two old guys that did angle cuts, they were beautiful cuts and everything looked good. 2 years later basement flooded and rework, younger guy did a good job but used this method. I really really prefer the other look and I know it's more time consuming to get those cuts.
You don’t have to measure from the piece of base you started with because the 45 degree cut is the thickness of the material. This allows you to measure out everything at once.
Only problem with cutting different degrees is your molding will not line up in the corners as it should. You’ll see one molding shows a little of the raw edge sticking out past the other molding. Which looks worse than using a bunch of silicone to me. But I was brought up really old school back when perfection actually meant something. These days the way things are made, you’ll never see antique furniture any more unless it’s the really old antiques! Furniture today will fall apart and turn to garbage way before anyone would consider it an antique!
Glueing the corners is the worst idea I’ve heard. You can’t remove trim later for other work without breaking it and having to replace it. Makes extra work for the contractor and added expense to homeowners. Sounds like something a lazy unskilled halfass contractor who should be working in a mobile home factory would do.
The time it takes you to find the angle, and the time it takes you to go back and fix when it opens up, I will beat you handedly with my coping saw. Measure once, the whole house, cut and cope once, done! Next!
Amatuer... Take your slim bar knock bottom edge of drywall off on both sides. Cut all at 45 and use slim bar or small shim when pinning ...Far quicker than coping(any method of coping)
Colonial base is barely over half an inch. I can measure an entire house out, make a cut sheet and cut all base at once. With coping saw or using 45. Measure your rooms, mark the square cuts. Then measure deduct an inch. Cut 45 on both sides and cope. If my coping saw blade snaps (it happens, ease pressure and let the blade work) use a jigsaw to finish. DO NOT USE AN ANGLE GRINDER lol
He said no gap! The opposite side of the cope he just made has a 3/4” gap. Guess he didn’t count for the thickness of the trim He was removing. But he did show the right way to trim an inside corner. I use a coping saw and a file to clean it up. Outside corners can get a little janky too though.
Yeah ,I noticed that too,had to do a double take ,Actually created more work and wasted material!So add the thickness of baseboard to the corner to corner measurement.
Not many house's have 90° vertical walls ether . I always scribed my corners . Ohh and no chop saw or angle grinder in my day . Used a fine panel saw and a coping saw for the mouldings , nice ❤
I work for an old-timer who had over 40 years of experience in finish work and remodeling. He taught me how to cope. That is the ONLY way that I do molding.
Thanks for the hack it works so does a 45 the hardest part for most people is measuring properly because they're measuring inside and they want to go to measure the piece of wood they measure outside causing a slight variance either way decent caulking job and patience to measure properly but I like to hack some of it simplifies for some people
45 is fine if you live by the motto:
Do your best, caulk the rest.
Or just miter an extra 1 or 2 degrees in the other direction, then caulk what remains.
Just put a speed square up to it so u know whether it is more or less than 90.
Assuming you can't just eyeball it (u probably can).
Bigger the gob, better the job!
A little caulking, a little paint makes a carpenter what he ain’t.
Putty's your buddy
Tackle with spackle
"don't cut at a 45, instead cut at a 45"
@@disillusioned070 45 inch . Look again
He didn't cut two 45s. He cut 1. That's what he meant.
Its a cope u dope
But it's a special way to do a 45
@@justaguy328As a Carpenter I know that, but he titled and worded this video horribly.
My favorite part is where you don't show cutting that profile at the end and skip over it instead...the hardest part. Nice.
Not hard at all. This trick works great. A complete noob can do it. I should know. I learned it from my father-in-law in 2 minutes. This guy is trying too hard.
This needs more likes
Yeah when he first puts it up there it doesn't fit at all and then it cuts to fitting perfectly hahahaha
It's a lot less evil than that. He just cut the footage to make the short under 60 seconds. Check the length lol
Didn’t know Tom Segura had a carpentry channel. That’s pretty cool 🙂
Keeping that trim high and tight
I thought this guy looked familiar.
The gay version.
I'm having a hard time coping with all these baseboard videos
We’re all gonna have sick baseboard if this keep up.
This comment is busting my balls! Keep up the humor guys, it's how we cope!
😂
I see what you did there.
Stop with the baseboard jokes. Just cut it out, please. 😂
Or buy a $3 angle gauge and know what angle your corners really are.
Cutting angles on inside corners is still a hack solution. The wood eventually shrinks away from each other.
Plus, that assumes the wall is perfectly plumb.
@@dejavu666wampas9 coping doesnt fix the plumb issue unless you angle your cope to match the wall against the other baseboard. Which thus hack didnt
@@jimbendtsen8841 ca. Glue your angle before install
Try fitting out 11 apartments a week by fiddling around with an angle gauge and messing around with the turn table on the drop saw all day. You wouldn't make a profit.
My boss handed me a panel saw and told me to fit the baseboard corners. I said I couldn’t cope with this
did you also get asked if you had a "board stretcher" ?
@@michaellorenzen8200 no but I tried to get my wife to get me one for a birthday 🤣
@@Mars-zgblbl in a pinch it can also help in repairing your muffler bearings on your work truck HAHAHA 👍
I cant cope with that, no-o-ooooo
Haha haha
Dude-you cut it short. Always a bit long and spring into place. It’ll keep the coped joint tight. And the long piece should always face the room entry to minimize the possibility of seeing the joint.
Yes strange it is such a short piece, must be a unit going there, called a scribe in the UK.
You're so correct
Great comment!
Yeah spring into place, then wood will expand and create a crack in the wall corner.
Use a coping saw and snap it in tight.
Hold up… how big was that gap on the next corner to the right?
Lol. Yeah. Fits like the wrong size glove
That’s called the OJ Simpson. If the glove don’t fit you must caulk or something like that
9/16" he probably measured off the base instead of the drywall...
Maybe he was planning to but a flat end on the opposite wall aswell . Then take his cut length and make the same cut on the opposite side . Slot it in between the two .
I peeped that too! 🤣🤦🏼♀️😂
As a painter I thank you. To everyone else that commented stop making me make you look good.
😂😂😂
"...and in just 75 years, you will have a completed house."
Wrong, coping is faster than mitering because you only have to work one piece and there is no caulking or fussing with the joint.
@@davidbrogan606 Yes a miter joint here is for hacks.
@@davidbrogan606 Totally agree. I coped the main room and thought I'd save time by mitering in the closet where it was less seen. Definitely spent more time getting the joints just right on the miters.
@@DerekMorey6505 Indeed, the learning curve is short, one easily gets the hang of accurate coping.
Uh, here come the excuses. Dog ate my coping saw. It's ok, the world needs ditch diggers too.
Hi, I noticed that too, when I was doing my baseboards years ago. I taught myself how to do that and I did mine by cutting it with a saw... 😊Thanks for sharing though!❤❤
If only they made a "coping saw" that they could sell at every single hardware store for $15
Much faster the way he did it.
@@jimmykaci8352 I have to disagree. With a hand coping saw, you can just start cutting, and add a slight back-bevel which makes your joint super tight. By the time he resets his miter saw from 45° to straight, cuts partway, then reaches for his grinder, Id have been done.
I wonder what a coping saw is used for.
I’m not sure why but everyone I see cutting trim on yt reels use everything but a coping saw to cope their baseboard
And with the coping saw you actually get the routed top of the baseboard to match and fit tightly.
If it’s going to be painted and caulked then not worth the time. If it’s going to be stained then yeah I’m with you.
Right....coping is for stained only. Get the caulk out and get moving
A coped corner is faster than a 45. Takes some skill, but no electric, no batteries, no extension cord, one measurement. faster to caulk if it needs it. Crown molding, cope it.
@Sailor376also how would you cope crown molding?
@@brandonsolorzano860 Technique is exactly the same 45 cut and follow the intersecting line with your coping saw. A couple of provisos. Crown moldings are not 45 to the ceiling,, My memory, about 54 degrees? so take care when placing in the chop saw that the wall contact flats are flat to the saw. I am mildly dyslexic,, I must maintain a sample in front of me,, because, there are 8 possible 45s and 4 of them are useless. (inside, outside, left right, and then upside down versions,, and on the saw you are working upside down to the ceiling. Total mind f*** for someone who has difficulty with left and right.)
The trick with the coping saw itself,, when coping a baseboard a little inside angle on the cut, and a little over long helps with the final install,, SAME on the crown BUT saw with the coping saw blade in the same alignment as the ceiling will be in,, with that similar slight inside tilt.
The extreme benefit when you get proficient at the cuts,,, no 90 ceiling corner ,, plastered or drywall is 90 degrees. IT JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN,,, three intersecting 90 degree angles with plasterers or tapers slinging mud against the ceiling,, never perfect. A COPED crown molding,, just slide it up or down as a unit and you will find a position where it is tight. As it slides up or down the wall to crown angle changes and will adapt to whatever the corner angles are'
Always do the easiest. Normally one end will be coped,, the other end butts square end into the next corner,, on around the room. Outside corners are often small. Do the outside corner 45 to 45, with the ends square cut, and cope the long piece coming into it. The coped end pins the small piece effectively and the outside corner can be assembled before it goes up. ALSO Learn to swear like a sailor,, a needed skill,, and do it when the homeowner or wife is not there, so you can sweep the dust and blue smoke out before they return. And if you are mildly dyslexic,, you will KNOW you are before you finish.
A true Craftsman would notice you're cheesy Corner immediately
Been doing this for years. It’s a great way to do inside corners. I learned this from a old finish carpenter about 20 years ago.
Hell Will freeze over before I follow this guy
True Carpenters like myself use a coping saw and we're good at it. You don't caulk wood stained baseboards
With a name like that you are either a master carpenter or a porn star.
Exactly
Wood putty that matches. Because you have to use it anyway. Unless you don't, and what kind of true carpenter doesn't want his final product looking perfect?
That is fair, we generally just don't work jobs that call for that, keeps us moving. It's good that there are craftsmen around still putting the time in. Most idiots can throw together some trim, come behind them and spackle the hell out of it to pretty it up. Keeps the cost down, works well for people who don't want to pay as much or can't afford to. I think both have their place.
@@greenandgold2185 oh believe me it looks professional or we would not be doing million dollar+ houses
I started coping baseboard in the 1970's when I was a finish carpenter subcontractor. There are also a lot of other tricks installing baseboard to make it look a lot more professional.
Like a roofing nail in the corner to get plumb
I'm about to do a bunch of baseboard on a reno and this is fantastic, thank you!
F🥰😎kin' ingenious & brilliant! I am a new subscriber because of this amazing video. It's people like you who think outside the box, like I do, & we come up with a way, better solutions or ways of doing things that actually work better than the standard or traditional way. U're a rock star, dude😎💥🌟! I can't wait to OD, on your videos! Please, keep them coming, and could you please, make a video, on better ways of caulking baseboard to floor. Thanks, this was a lifesaver, as I am now, learning how to cut molding/baseboards, and I am a woman, and it drives me insane that women don't try to learn tasks that are predominately associated with males. I think women should learn to be self-sufficient, and women should be able to pick up any power tool, with the same authority and confidence of a man. Thanks for sharpening my newly acquired skill set. I learned a lot, from many, of the men in my life, and I have loved Powertools, since I was a young girl, and it has come in very handy, throughout my life. Not to mention, I truly love working with power tools & fixing things as well as creating, & I'm all about being innovative, & thinking of a new ways of accomplishing all tasks, more proficiently & perhaps with even better results, then the ways of old! 🎉There's nothing wrong with reinventing the wheel because sometimes the wheel is from the Flintstone's era! Much love and respect for your genius, skill set. I've often found that many contractors, in the business for 20+ years, are stuck in the past and truly afraid to deviate from their, pedestrian,
& even archaic, ways of doing things, and they don't realize that they could do a job, perhaps more, efficiently, proficiently, with even better results than the best results, they've ever accomplished. I truly believe that learning any skill set is never completed, and there's always room to learn new and better ways of doing anything and everything, and this doesn't just apply to construction, but all things, in life. Anyone who thinks that there's nothing new to learn, even about what they already know, is really being narrow-minded and missing out on, sharpening their skill set and making their job more interesting, exciting, and even more expedient, and getting things done faster. It doesn't necessarily mean that because someone has learned a new way, of accomplishing a task, more efficiently and expediently that they're cutting corners, and thus producing a sub par or an unprofessional result! It's this limited way of thinking and faulty logic that prevents even the most seasoned construction worker, from resisting a new way of doing things. Furthermore, they also think that learning a new way is not accomplishing the task And outcome in a durable, lasting, and aesthetically pleasing way, I don't know why people think learning more proficient ways, with sometimes a better outcome, than what they have been doing prior, is cutting corners or not doing the job correctly. I always want to learn a more innovative, and/or proficient way, about doing an old job. Therefore, when one is, too or totally, close minded about learning, innovative ideas, that are brilliant, such as is demonstrated, in this awesome video, they're truly missing out on such brilliant ideas as yours. Sorry for the long comment, but your video really inspired me to point out, why it is always a good idea to be open minded and adopt new and more brilliant ways of doing things. I can't wait to learn more from you. Thanks for your amazing video, and I would imagine the rest of your videos, would follow suit.🥰🎁💥😎🌟
I just dont mess with baseboards at all and it works out great for me. 🍻
Glad you're not on my jobsite.
This is a pretty convoluted alternative to just grabbing a coping saw. 😂
It’s actually not and it’s faster and easier than using a coping saw
@@conqueringdeath2559 for me it’s not. Maybe if I practiced more I could be more efficient but I’m just more comfortable and quicker this way.
@Conquering Death Agreed 100% Been doing this 35 years . Mitered 45 , coping saw . Done .
Thank you.
When there's a different saw or tool for every little thing I wonder how y'all fit inside your rolling tool shed.
Good message for trim work. The far end of your cut is way off the wall. Your cope also isn't as tight as it could be.
Back cut/sand the cope a little bit for a tighter fit. If the walls are out of plumb or the floor out of level, your cope should follow accordingly.
You can also cope the end before cutting the square end to final length. Cut the trim a little on the long side and flex the trim into place to check the cope and adjust if need be. Then cut the square end to final length. This also enables you to re-cope if it comes out messed up the first time around.
The angle grinder with the flap wheel is the way to go, along with a dremel sanding drum for smaller radii. The way you take out the large amount of material with the miter saw is great.
Good work intent. Keep it up!
Nice job mate, been trying similar for ages using a different method, this is much simpler! Thanks
That’s why they make a coping saw…old school 👍🏽
Waste of time/ will never be as good as result as if dont with grinder.
Coping - the perfect solution for unskilled laborers. Measure the angle and cut the correct angles.
Thanks for slowing this down to watch. Great tip
Nice and tight he says😂someone needs practice with the tape measure 👍
Maybe there is a slight gap for wood movement......
@@thecsciworker291
No. Just no...
There is almost a 3/4" gap to the right of the baseboard because he cut the baseboard at the length he measured then mitered it for "coping".
@@thecsciworker291lol no
@Phillip Kirby I went through the comments just to look for someone calling this out. Agreed, that gap is unnecessary, and anyone posting these kinds of videos should be aware of the high standards us viewers have 😊
@@phillipkirby502 I called it a chasm
You should back cut your copes by at least 15 degrees as well this will get them even tighter especially on walls that are farther out of square
Good point !
Its almost like there is a tool and proven methods to doing this job the right way.
I'd hope you would notice if it were that far out. 5 is plenty
@@thomasohanlon1060There are different tools that are commonly used to achieve the same result in the same amount of time. It doesn't matter what you use to get there, the advice is sound
Thanks!
Another tool for my toolbox.
Thank you!!! I never knew exactly how a coping saw was used !! Nice!!
I used to set my miter saw a tiny fraction over 45 degrees so the the visible part is normally a tight fit and I put a caulk bead on the face of one of the miter. Then when I push the another miter into it, I nail it and wipe out the squeeze out. I sometimes used construction adhesive in the joint, instead
That's wrong, just follow this video and it will always be perfect, no caulk, which fails eventually.
If you cut the board slightly too big and spring it into place, the sharp edge of your cope will actually cut into the next piece making a perfect seam with zero caulk necessary.
@@balipan09 Correct, I also use the technique you mentioned but that doesn't give you a perfect miter unless you exactly know the angle of the inside corner. So instead of measuring every miter, I set my saw to 46 degrees and the visible part of the joint will usually touch, unless the angle is even more out of square, but I will cut a piece of scrap mounding at 45 degrees to cut the angle of the existing corner for square first.
I finished my home project yesterday and today I see this lol.
Good thing because If you do like this video you probably been trying to finish by tomorrow
Beautiful and perfect!
Yup! That's the best way. I'm a Master Plumber and I know that little Trim hack. It IS the best way!
The back piece should be the one cut straight on both sides, this allows the coped piece too but up. This hides any slight imperfections from view for your finished product!
Truth! You should always be looking "past" the coped piece from the middle of the room when possible.
From what view? There's 360 degrees of wall in a room, so you'll always be looking at atleast one cope. Doing it this way however makes it impossible to remove just that one piece if it ever need replacing.
@Joshua Powers
Great question! It's a bit subjective, but first choice should be from where you walk into the room. If that isn't conclusive, then the most commonly occupied are of the room (usually the centerish)
@@joshuapowers4623 always from the door or room entry. Always. Just like you always lap your trim bevel away from your main entry. In a room with multiple doors, like a living area, you just do what you can. Only other rule in that type of area is don't break (join) your trim over a door or window header...try to run it solid over headers and join it somewhere down the line. People tend to look over headers more than they do blank walls. Don't know why. Just the way I was always taught. Probably doesn't much matter but it's tried and true as my dad always says.
But like he said, he's a hack. 😂
"Cuz I'm a hack"
*does 7 extra steps* to make it perrrrfect
Coping is the industry standard-procedure.
Wow thank you for sharing this.
I use my chop saw for the entire profile, and do the detail work with a half round file. Perfection every time.
If walls isn't plumb that doesn't fit either.
Exactly
You're going to have to caulk either way so why bother coping
Shim the base or plane it plum.
He didn't even do a good job in coping. Still has a gap, waste of time.
Exactly. Any corner should be caulked and painted or filled and stained…so why does this matter? He still has a gap that needs filled.
Doesn’t really matter on 2” board
Coping was done in the old days cause miter saws weren't invented till the 60s. We might as well plaster and lath our walls again. Nail your mouldings with a hammer and nails. Lol
Measure your angles if you want tight joints, much quicker. Especially for crown mouldings.
If you look carefully, the joint isn't even tight. After all that time wasted, it doesn't even look good. He needs to caulk anyways.
Agreed. Two prices, but same result in less time.
Incorrect, coping is done because it leaves it tight and less likely to crack in the future and more professional but hey if that’s how u roll u do u just don’t work for me
Coping provides the toughest fit, always room for error when transferring measurements to a saw. And coping is faster as you aren’t always adjusting your saw
@Oh Boy how is doing all that faster than slightly changing the angle of the saw? You have to switch between multiple tools. That's not quicker.
@@Lady_Hiccups you are constantly changing the angle of the saw. This way it’s 45 and 0 degrees only and using this method when accustomed to it takes literally 2 minutes or less. You don’t have to measure every corner and then transfer that to your saw. I’ve done both and prefer this as it’s less room for error. 1 and done
That idea has been around for ever.
Because it’s the best way to do it.
Super. Thank you very much for sharing this info.
It’s a shame they don’t make a tool designed just for this purpose….
The tool is a coping saw.
Of course. It was a sarcastic comment.
The copemaster
I got a cope master after seeing it on this old house.
It sits in my shop.
lol My neighbor still thinks the sun and moon are the same thing after I told her YEARS ago.@@user181
I cut and label several small test angles out of the baseboard first. Test each corner first, and pick the one with no gap.
Maybe you should learn to use a coping saw.
Sure, if I want the job to go a lot slower for no benefit. I think you misunderstood the point.
@Jonathan Baxter Oh, I understood the point all right. The point was to set up a saw to make the rough cut, then use your heavy right angle grinder to carefully back cut and sculpt around the top portion. I've been doing this a long time, and I know for sure I can cut a baseboard with a coping saw in far less time than this, and with cleaner results.
@@backwoods6050 No dude, the point is to find the correct angle in a few seconds.
Awesome tip!!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Beautiful trick! Thank you 🙏
I disagree that this looks good because it’s not finished! It’s always one of the first things I notice when people cope then don’t take the extra effort to make it look good. To make a cope cut look good you still have to use paintable caulking and touch it up so what’s the point when you do the same with a 45 degree cut with a 1/4 of the time taken?
Totally agree. His coping isn't even perfect. Still a gap.
44° inside corners, 46° outside corners. Gets you decent joints most of the time, and you're going to be caulking no matter what you do. Coping takes time and time is money.
You don't caulk stained baseboard.
@@TheBloodyKnuckle Did you watch the video (it's not very long)... that is not stained baseboard.
Absolutely done correctly! Great job...
I had my trim done buy two old guys that did angle cuts, they were beautiful cuts and everything looked good. 2 years later basement flooded and rework, younger guy did a good job but used this method. I really really prefer the other look and I know it's more time consuming to get those cuts.
Remember. The best way to avoid cutting a 45 degree angle, is by cutting a 45 degree angle. And knowing is half the battle!
Yo Joe!
G.I. Joe. Thanks, I’d be lost without that cartoon. Lol
That's the only thing it takes to learn how to cope!!! 😅😅. Well thank you for teaching me 👍👍
You don’t have to measure from the piece of base you started with because the 45 degree cut is the thickness of the material. This allows you to measure out everything at once.
Thank you for this. I’m doing 300’ of baseboard installation and running up these stairs is a pain
I’ve done it that way for years with my coping saw. Some people don’t even know how to use one.
Orrr cut 44° and the tiny bit at the back gets filled with paint usually
Only problem with cutting different degrees is your molding will not line up in the corners as it should. You’ll see one molding shows a little of the raw edge sticking out past the other molding. Which looks worse than using a bunch of silicone to me.
But I was brought up really old school back when perfection actually meant something. These days the way things are made, you’ll never see antique furniture any more unless it’s the really old antiques! Furniture today will fall apart and turn to garbage way before anyone would consider it an antique!
And you still have to caulk even if you cope. Caulking makes 45s tight!
You get to use a tiny bead of caulk that looks perfect instead of a big gap.
If you're hack.
@@TheRoomfull I'm talking about painted wood joints. Caulking makes it look better.
Didn’t know that!! Thanks and now I do 👍🏽👍🏽
No, you really don't if you follow this garbage
Love the bandaid on his cut finger!
I just use some gap filler, does a great job
Use a multi tool saw and cut right there no miter saw or running up and down stairs . Use a 45° square and pencil .
All those years I used a coping saw, what a dummy!
DUDE!!! Amazing!!!! 🙌🏼😱👏🏼
I cut at 44¼ and got perfect fit, no coping needed. And that was the 1st time I ever cut trim. Rookie for the win 😂
Great tip, thanks
Nice.
That would never cross my mind
Hence the reason the miter saw has left and right angles. You can adjust the saw to suit the wall. No angle grinder is necessary, just skill.
You can't set a miter saw to cope tho. That was the reason he stopped before the route on the baseboard.
Usually when I am coping baseboard or crown molding I use a coping saw.
Use ca glue on 45 n caulk the top its quicker and looks clean clean
Caulk and paint is the carpenter you ain't!
@@frankrosemeck9898 red neck you must not be good at anything
yeah as long as all you want is white.
Glueing the corners is the worst idea I’ve heard. You can’t remove trim later for other work without breaking it and having to replace it. Makes extra work for the contractor and added expense to homeowners.
Sounds like something a lazy unskilled halfass contractor who should be working in a mobile home factory would do.
@@michiganmoto7687 all professionals glue trim clown. Who removes trim unless they are remodeling. Dont be a fool
This is an amazing hack,awesome !
What a great video, I had to hide a lot of our corner cuts.
I can’t wait to spend 30 min on each corner of a baseboaed as I cut my finger off
You’re wrong more like 5 mins😊
@@luisferrel775 and you only got 36 corners so it's only 3 extra hours and no fingers. Lol
The time it takes you to find the angle, and the time it takes you to go back and fix when it opens up, I will beat you handedly with my coping saw. Measure once, the whole house, cut and cope once, done! Next!
You should hire a carpenter then. Sounds like installing baseboards is above your skill level
@@ohboy2592 hey, keep the smart ass comments to your self, pal! Lmfao!!
My dad, who was a trim carpenter taught me this YEARS ago.
Nice nick where you plunged the mitre saw too deep. 😂
Very cool tip!
45’s look better. Coping is like cutting a miter with an extra step.
Don’t cut to length until your miter is done then measure 1/8” long and it will fit tight on both sides
I do the same thing with the saw but I use a dremel with the sand paper attachment works pretty good
Thanks for this
Amatuer... Take your slim bar knock bottom edge of drywall off on both sides. Cut all at 45 and use slim bar or small shim when pinning ...Far quicker than coping(any method of coping)
You are the hack. You wouldn’t work for my company
Colonial base is barely over half an inch. I can measure an entire house out, make a cut sheet and cut all base at once. With coping saw or using 45. Measure your rooms, mark the square cuts. Then measure deduct an inch. Cut 45 on both sides and cope. If my coping saw blade snaps (it happens, ease pressure and let the blade work) use a jigsaw to finish. DO NOT USE AN ANGLE GRINDER lol
Been doing coping for less than a year.... I'm getting better at it as I renovate the inherited house. Its getting easier every time i do a room.
Nice, we'd do it a bit different, carving out the profile, good tip.
He said no gap! The opposite side of the cope he just made has a 3/4” gap. Guess he didn’t count for the thickness of the trim
He was removing. But he did show the right way to trim an inside corner. I use a coping saw and a file to clean it up. Outside corners can get a little janky too though.
Yeah ,I noticed that too,had to do a double take ,Actually created more work and wasted material!So add the thickness of baseboard to the corner to corner measurement.
Not many house's have 90° vertical walls ether . I always scribed my corners . Ohh and no chop saw or angle grinder in my day . Used a fine panel saw and a coping saw for the mouldings , nice ❤
That was awesome 👌
That’s awesome thanks u for that tip
I work for an old-timer who had over 40 years of experience in finish work and remodeling. He taught me how to cope. That is the ONLY way that I do molding.
Glad we install 5.5" square with eased edge. Butt joint all day long. Looks great.
How many lads are gonna make this exact video over and over, do you not think we've seen this about a dozen times already.
Awesome. Thanks
Good coping skills help keep us from going insane.
Nice work dude
Great tip
Brilliant!! Ty
Way i do it ..💯 exactly have been for yearzz & yearzz.. i cope it all with a coping saw tho..
Excellent!
You can also use a test piece and adjust the miter and cut till it matches.
Great job❤❤❤❤
Finally a practical use for Pythagoras Theorem
Thanks for the hack it works so does a 45 the hardest part for most people is measuring properly because they're measuring inside and they want to go to measure the piece of wood they measure outside causing a slight variance either way decent caulking job and patience to measure properly but I like to hack some of it simplifies for some people