once you do 400 grit, add a final layer of poly with an ox bristle brush and put it on slowly, and add 1 part mineral spirits to 3 parts poly. That final coat will be a beautiful finish without the cloudiness, without the bubbles of the quick coats, and will be safe to eat off of (will not require a polish). only con, is that it will take just a little while longer to cure. If you find that the finish still has a couple spots that you dont like, sand those spots and areas surrounding them in the same direction as your grain, then refinish the complete surface with a 50% min spirits and 50% poly blend, using a lint free rag to dip and the brush across. you'll have an even finer finish with even less imperfections than option one; with 1 caveat, do it in an area with minimal dust.
After the first layer my dark floor looks blotchy where parts of the wood are shiny and the other parts dull. How can I fix this? I tried sanding with 180 on a patch and it took the stain off too. Maybe I I used too much pressure but Any advice would be appreciated.
(Try General Finishes oil poly. "Arm-R-Seal." You probably will find it thin enough directly out of the can. I love the results I have been getting using at least three coats and light sanding 320, then 600, then brown paper (approx. 1000). )
Beautiful finish. I work for Duncan Aviation as a SWAT tech so a lot of my work follows through finish. This video was helpful to help me learn about finish. The only thing we do different is we start at 1000 and work to 3000 grit on finish surfaces. Still a helpful video.
Just make sure you spend enough time with each grit of sanding before moving to the finer grits. That was my mistake, just need to make sure all of the previous sand marks are gone before moving onto the next grit.
I dont know if you need to hear this or not . But ima tell you anyway lol keep making videos , keep making and creating and doin your thing ! I have a tiny channel and i post videos for the simple fact i like to share what im doing and inspire others to go out and work with there hands . I have had some of the nastiest comments and it does suck . But for me its therapeutic in that in helps me in deal with the fact i cant please everyone. You brought this finish in this video from dang it..... To DAAAAANNNNNGGGG! Great job and keep going !
after 32o you still had those glossy area where 32p paper did not reach and you switched to 600 , it will take more time than i thought after 320 you gonna switch to 150 and will sand evenly untill the entire surface will become smokey...
Any reason you didn’t show the cloudy buff out process? We’re you not successful here? This isn’t a gotcha or anything- but it’s probably the most difficult part imo to really get correct
What about scratches going dif directions from the grain using sn orbit sander?? Akso do u use it on a slow or high soeed i ua r a deeal varuable speed
Your close, but no cigar! Typical of folks thinking it can be done fast. Last coat of sanding should be done wet, Has to be done by hand ( not a machine) In small circular motion with a start of 800 grit. That's all the real secrets I'm willing to give. But you guys keep showing off your vids...I enjoy em, & wait for folks to call me to get it done the right way.
Thanks for the vid. I've put 4 coats of polyurethane on a small table top I have built. The second coat was basically perfect looking, but I was afraid it wasn't enough so I sanded with 220 grit which was really a mistake. After the third coat I basically sanded it off with a brown paper towel on a square type electric sander. I have the fourth coat on now. It looks pretty good although I can see some brush marks in it. It's not been sanded yet and I'm wondering what grit of sandpaper I should use?
Its alittle late but im working on a project currently. I did 2 coats without sanding. And then sanded on the 3rd and 4th. Just to make sure it was thick enough to sand mostly flat without going through stain, because my first go round i accidentally sanded straight through to the wood at a low spot.
@@larracis Lately I've been sanding the first coat with 320 grit and the second coat with 600 grit (palm sander). The third coat is smoothed out using pieces of a paper shopping bag. That's the system I developed for my projects since writing the above comment.
Here's a quick and simple solution to get the best results: (1) use a top quality commercial-grade poly, and (2) spray finish it with a quality HPLV spray system like the Fuji Spray System. Save time and get showroom quality results without all of the hassles.
The awkward one hand in the pocket while sanding was so odd like u knew u had the camera on u and u didn't know what to do with ur hand he felt embarrassed even know he was alone
Yup! Even if it's easy, the other hand helps guide the sander so you get a more even sanding pattern. I've polished and sanded vehicles for over 30 years and notice it makes a difference how you move...slow machine speed and even movement.
Thanks for sharing your work. It is impossible to buff our residual haze when the poly does not fully harden. Would you be able to recommend a gloss poly product that comes with a hardener?
I have used a clear coat that is premixed from Sherman Williams. They mix it for you at the store. It has a pretty short shelf life because it will harden in the can. But if you spray it, it dry very quickly.
It’s something you will have to decide depending on how many coats you put on and how thick they were, because you won’t want to sand too far into the poly, or into the stain layer. I basically got all the major imperfections.
I have some mahogany pieces I’m trying to poly and can get it almost perfect but I have some imperfections. Do I sand/buff the whole project? Or Can I just fix the imperfections somehow?
I have been successful “patching imperfections. Just lightly sand the areas that are effected and dab some poly in that area with a foam brush. It may take more than one coat depending on how deep the imperfections are. It can be done, but usually I like to finish off the whole project with a coat of poly.
It was for me. I tried this with 3 coats tonight. It ended poorly. I just finished the first coat after starting over. It was quick, as most of the finish had already been removed with my "buffing".
@@Ben.Builds.There is a difference between drying and curing. Polyurethane takes about 30 days to fully cure. Waxes should only be applied after this period to avoid trapping solvents within the finish which can result in the failure of the finish.
I’m sure it can be, it will just be a lot more work. You can get a pretty inexpensive buffer from harbor freight. I don’t usually buy tools from harbor freight unless it’s a tool I know I won’t be using a lot.
At the end of the video you applied polish and said it was cloudy and it can get buffed out. How do you buff it out? Do you use another type of polish with a car buffer? Can you please advise. I'm restoring an antique bedroom dresser for my friend and changing the color like she wants and after spraying the water base polyurethane it feels like rough texture, it looks beautiful but the texture is not smooth. I also used paint, not stain because I believe it's redwood. After stripping it and trying stain it wouldn't take the stain so we went with primer and 100% acrylic and the poly. I just started with the 12 drawers and I'm trying to get the glass feel. I know it won't really shine because I'm using a satin finish but I'm not sure if she'll like the way it feels right now. My wife likes it a lot but I'm thinking it should feel smooth, at least that's what I'm used to seeing in furniture stores. Can you tell me what type of rubbing compound and polish you used? The stain and the polyurethane you placed in front of the camera to show us but the rest you didn't display it. May you please advise and help me out a bit. Thank you very much. I saw another video where the gentleman was wet sanding between coats. Again, thank you very much and I loved the video, very educational.
If you can feel it’s still rough it’s not ready for buff or polish. I would pick a spot in the dresser that won’t be seen and do a test spot with 1000 grit sand paper, then moving to 2000 grit and then buffing/polish. I don’t remember the buffing compound I used, but you can use any auto buffing compound like Meguiars. Basically the idea is to sad away any high points and the buff it until it shines. Just make sure you don’t sand through the poly layer.
I have this same question. After sanding and buffing, it's still a little "milky". Have I just not buffed it enough? how do I get rid of the final milky bit from the polyurethane dust getting stuck in the micro valleys from the first levels of sanding?
Thank you for the tips and for sharing your experience. I'm curious about one thing though, you mentioned needing to wash off the polish after the fact several times which is very logical, my question is what did you wash it with? Just water? Soapy water? or something else entirely? Thanks again. Cheers!
I took the exact same steps that you did however, I ended up with some spider cracking. Any idea what to do with that? Any idea how it happened! Thanks for the video by the way.
@@Ben.Builds. honestly, I’m not sure what happened. I ended up re-sanding and using polyurethane several more times with 220 instead of 400 grit. The only thing I can think of is that I hadn’t waited quite long enough for to cure. All in all, it came out nicely just that one bump along the way! Thanks for replying by the way.
I believe it was just Meguiars buff and polish. If you are getting a cloudy finish you will need to make sure you sanded the previous grit before moving to the finer grits.
Any tips for applying oil-based poly over a painted surface? I know you should wait about a month for the paint to fully cure, but I'm curious if there are any other important points to be aware of.
Does anyone know if I can apply polyurethane on top of the table I just finished with spar urethane? I’m so confused as to why it doesn’t harden even though it’s been days since I finished it and I let it dry 24 hours between coats ( 3 were recommended) I have no bubbles just brush lines possibly because I ran out and didn’t have enough to spread. My neighbour said to get finishing wax and it would look better but I need this to be extremely hard. It’s an outdoor table that I refinish for my mom.
To the best of my knowledge, spar urethane is UV resistant, but not as hard as polyurethane. I accidentally sprayed poly over spar. Called the manufacturer and they said go with it. (All oil based)
I have a table top that looks just like your project at the begging, I do not own buffer so can I just use mineral spirits to finish it up and get the color back? or would it still look cloudy?
@@Ben.Builds. "I believe"??? While I fully appreciate your taking the time to make a video to share what you did but if you're going to make "how to" UA-cam video's you should know, not guess, what it was that you used to do the job. Just sayin
@@karenwalker3958 If I am going to bush on the poly, my best results have been foam brushes. I usually spray the poly now, it’s seems to work out better.
U need something like mcquires m100 to get the sanding marks out. Ull need to do more buffing then this guy did too. You need to look at it in the light to see how cloudy it is and to tell how much buffing u need to do. After that u want to finish with something less abrasive like mcguires ultimate compound and then finish it off with a polishing compound.
Yep. That’s what happens sometimes. Many different factors can effect the finish. Could have been an old can of poly, weather, humidity, or putting more coats on too soon. This video is to show how to fix the problem.
@@Ben.Builds. Pretty mean comment above! Disregard it man. You can still work that table and have it look really really good. Sand some more to get out those final craters, use a better/thicker twisted wool pad and set the rpm on your buffer if it is variable speed to between 1400 and 1600. Don't use too much polish next time you do it. The friction is what is gonna shine that mf up! Finishing is a learning process. Don't let this discourage you!
once you do 400 grit, add a final layer of poly with an ox bristle brush and put it on slowly, and add 1 part mineral spirits to 3 parts poly. That final coat will be a beautiful finish without the cloudiness, without the bubbles of the quick coats, and will be safe to eat off of (will not require a polish). only con, is that it will take just a little while longer to cure.
If you find that the finish still has a couple spots that you dont like, sand those spots and areas surrounding them in the same direction as your grain, then refinish the complete surface with a 50% min spirits and 50% poly blend, using a lint free rag to dip and the brush across. you'll have an even finer finish with even less imperfections than option one; with 1 caveat, do it in an area with minimal dust.
After the first layer my dark floor looks blotchy where parts of the wood are shiny and the other parts dull. How can I fix this? I tried sanding with 180 on a patch and it took the stain off too. Maybe I I used too much pressure but Any advice would be appreciated.
@@Insp.CountMortisWinshipKlaw 180 is too aggressive, 220 is the absolute lowest. Between coats many say 320
(Try General Finishes oil poly. "Arm-R-Seal." You probably will find it thin enough directly out of the can. I love the results I have been getting using at least three coats and light sanding 320, then 600, then brown paper (approx. 1000). )
Beautiful finish. I work for Duncan Aviation as a SWAT tech so a lot of my work follows through finish. This video was helpful to help me learn about finish. The only thing we do different is we start at 1000 and work to 3000 grit on finish surfaces. Still a helpful video.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
What a good idea .. I went up to 3000 myself and the smoothness and feel you get is top notch you want to keep touching it .. oops! :)
I'm in Special Forces and we go all the way to 10000 making the buffing process 10 times quicker
I'm in MI6 and we tend to go to 15000...
@@jamesfoo8999 I'm going to send you my email address I need some of that 15,000
Wow, I didn’t even know that sand paper came in such fine grits. The most fine I’ve ever used is 120. I’m glad to know there is much finer grit👍🏻💥💥💕
Thanks, man. You saved my butt. Was going to start out with much rougher selection of papers
I enjoyed the video. I just wish you had shown what the table looked like after you got rid of cloudy film. I'm hesitant to start.
Just make sure you spend enough time with each grit of sanding before moving to the finer grits. That was my mistake, just need to make sure all of the previous sand marks are gone before moving onto the next grit.
4:30- good point about washing the table, but usually I put my food on a plate rather than directly on the wood finish.
😂😂😂
He has kids tho. You can hear them in the background. So you can never be too careful. I’d rather wash it off than take my kids to the ER.
Thanks for the video, I appreciate the tips
Thanks for watching!
Is this exclusively for oil based polyurethane? Would it be the same prescription for a water based polyurethane?
I'm curious about how many coats of poly did you apply before going through this process?
It was three thick coats, the last coat was the problem coat. The first two went on smooth.
Wow! HUGE difference! 🙌
Thanks!!
thank you for your very informative video
You are welcome!
I dont know if you need to hear this or not . But ima tell you anyway lol keep making videos , keep making and creating and doin your thing ! I have a tiny channel and i post videos for the simple fact i like to share what im doing and inspire others to go out and work with there hands . I have had some of the nastiest comments and it does suck . But for me its therapeutic in that in helps me in deal with the fact i cant please everyone. You brought this finish in this video from dang it..... To DAAAAANNNNNGGGG! Great job and keep going !
Thank you for watching and the comment! Keep sharing positivity! Awesome!
Helpful. Thanks for doing this.
after 32o you still had those glossy area where 32p paper did not reach and you switched to 600 , it will take more time than i thought after 320 you gonna switch to 150 and will sand evenly untill the entire surface will become smokey...
Yes I think I should have spent more time sanding at each grit. It would have turned out a lot more clear.
I rather prefer thinner finishes that make the wood grain stick out and preserve the texture somewhat.
What’s the name of the buffing product and waxing product
Very nice video. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Any reason you didn’t show the cloudy buff out process? We’re you not successful here? This isn’t a gotcha or anything- but it’s probably the most difficult part imo to really get correct
What about scratches going dif directions from the grain using sn orbit sander?? Akso do u use it on a slow or high soeed i ua r a deeal varuable speed
Really i was searching this kind of video , but its focusing more on process rather than sanding it evenly and getting gloss
Thanks for watching!
Your close, but no cigar!
Typical of folks thinking it can be done fast.
Last coat of sanding should be done wet,
Has to be done by hand ( not a machine)
In small circular motion with a start of 800 grit.
That's all the real secrets I'm willing to give. But you guys keep showing off your vids...I enjoy em, & wait for folks to call me to get it done the right way.
That could work too!
Could work with a DA sander instead of orbital
Thanks for the vid. I've put 4 coats of polyurethane on a small table top I have built. The second coat was basically perfect looking, but I was afraid it wasn't enough so I sanded with 220 grit which was really a mistake. After the third coat I basically sanded it off with a brown paper towel on a square type electric sander. I have the fourth coat on now. It looks pretty good although I can see some brush marks in it. It's not been sanded yet and I'm wondering what grit of sandpaper I should use?
Great video
Thank you!
Hello would you recommend sanding between coats of poly in order to flatten them out a little before the next coat?
Its alittle late but im working on a project currently. I did 2 coats without sanding. And then sanded on the 3rd and 4th. Just to make sure it was thick enough to sand mostly flat without going through stain, because my first go round i accidentally sanded straight through to the wood at a low spot.
@@larracis Lately I've been sanding the first coat with 320 grit and the second coat with 600 grit (palm sander). The third coat is smoothed out using pieces of a paper shopping bag. That's the system I developed for my projects since writing the above comment.
Good job!
Thanks!
Great video thanks
Honestly i thought it looked better before sanding than it did after
Ever tried 0000 steel wool and 1 final thinned coat of poly? usually what I do after sanding and buffing like crazy.
That’s a really good idea! Thanks!
Here's a quick and simple solution to get the best results: (1) use a top quality commercial-grade poly, and (2) spray finish it with a quality HPLV spray system like the Fuji Spray System. Save time and get showroom quality results without all of the hassles.
And on that note, a high gloss finish makes most furniture look tacky/ daggy, imo, and you can't beat a nice satin finish.
why didn't you fill the grain first?
Should have
The awkward one hand in the pocket while sanding was so odd like u knew u had the camera on u and u didn't know what to do with ur hand he felt embarrassed even know he was alone
Yup! Even if it's easy, the other hand helps guide the sander so you get a more even sanding pattern. I've polished and sanded vehicles for over 30 years and notice it makes a difference how you move...slow machine speed and even movement.
LMAO.
I would have thought the 1st view of the super glossy table was the finished product not the last view.
Good eye.
Why because you saw a shiny? It was all wavy and blotchy
I went looking for those grits u mentioned for an orbital sander but couldn't find any....where do I find them ?
My project becomes tacky when I sand it. what am I doing wrong?
Thanks for sharing your work. It is impossible to buff our residual haze when the poly does not fully harden. Would you be able to recommend a gloss poly product that comes with a hardener?
I have used a clear coat that is premixed from Sherman Williams. They mix it for you at the store. It has a pretty short shelf life because it will harden in the can. But if you spray it, it dry very quickly.
@@Ben.Builds. Thanks for your kind response. I will try your suggestion.
What kind of buffing compound?
Ben, how much time did you spend with the 320 Grit sandpaper. Do you get it almost completely smooth before moving on to the next "Grit" level?
It’s something you will have to decide depending on how many coats you put on and how thick they were, because you won’t want to sand too far into the poly, or into the stain layer. I basically got all the major imperfections.
I have some mahogany pieces I’m trying to poly and can get it almost perfect but I have some imperfections.
Do I sand/buff the whole project?
Or
Can I just fix the imperfections somehow?
I have been successful “patching imperfections. Just lightly sand the areas that are effected and dab some poly in that area with a foam brush. It may take more than one coat depending on how deep the imperfections are. It can be done, but usually I like to finish off the whole project with a coat of poly.
Wow. 320 seems agressive with only 3 coats and an electric sander. Although, the results speak for themselves. Nice work and a very helpful video.
Yeah they do. The thing was cloudy like the sky. It needs a ton more polishing
It was for me. I tried this with 3 coats tonight. It ended poorly. I just finished the first coat after starting over. It was quick, as most of the finish had already been removed with my "buffing".
May I ask usually how long should it wait for polyurethene to complete dry?
It usually will dry within 24-48 hours depending on temperature and humidity. It should say on the back of any polyurethane product.
@@Ben.Builds.There is a difference between drying and curing. Polyurethane takes about 30 days to fully cure. Waxes should only be applied after this period to avoid trapping solvents within the finish which can result in the failure of the finish.
Thank you so much for the video and the tips. Question? What if I don not have a buffer? Can this process be done by hand??
I’m sure it can be, it will just be a lot more work. You can get a pretty inexpensive buffer from harbor freight. I don’t usually buy tools from harbor freight unless it’s a tool I know I won’t be using a lot.
So this compound won't change the original sheen? And does it work with paint as well as poly?
It will change the sheen, it will never be as glossy if you are sanding and buffing gloss poly. I wouldn’t do it on paint.
At the end of the video you applied polish and said it was cloudy and it can get buffed out. How do you buff it out? Do you use another type of polish with a car buffer? Can you please advise. I'm restoring an antique bedroom dresser for my friend and changing the color like she wants and after spraying the water base polyurethane it feels like rough texture, it looks beautiful but the texture is not smooth. I also used paint, not stain because I believe it's redwood. After stripping it and trying stain it wouldn't take the stain so we went with primer and 100% acrylic and the poly. I just started with the 12 drawers and I'm trying to get the glass feel. I know it won't really shine because I'm using a satin finish but I'm not sure if she'll like the way it feels right now. My wife likes it a lot but I'm thinking it should feel smooth, at least that's what I'm used to seeing in furniture stores. Can you tell me what type of rubbing compound and polish you used? The stain and the polyurethane you placed in front of the camera to show us but the rest you didn't display it. May you please advise and help me out a bit. Thank you very much. I saw another video where the gentleman was wet sanding between coats. Again, thank you very much and I loved the video, very educational.
If you can feel it’s still rough it’s not ready for buff or polish. I would pick a spot in the dresser that won’t be seen and do a test spot with 1000 grit sand paper, then moving to 2000 grit and then buffing/polish. I don’t remember the buffing compound I used, but you can use any auto buffing compound like Meguiars. Basically the idea is to sad away any high points and the buff it until it shines. Just make sure you don’t sand through the poly layer.
I have this same question. After sanding and buffing, it's still a little "milky". Have I just not buffed it enough? how do I get rid of the final milky bit from the polyurethane dust getting stuck in the micro valleys from the first levels of sanding?
@@StrawberryGS wash is more?
I’m not sure but that’s my guess
Water based poly same as oil poly finishing?
Yes it should be. The big thing is to just make sure it’s dry before sanding
great video i put 3 coats of water base poly on my project would that be enough to sand and buff..?
Should be enough. It really depends on how thick the coats were.
Was this water based poly? Can I use the same process for water polyurethane?
Yes you can do this with water based or oil based polyurethane.
Thank you for the tips and for sharing your experience. I'm curious about one thing though, you mentioned needing to wash off the polish after the fact several times which is very logical, my question is what did you wash it with? Just water? Soapy water? or something else entirely?
Thanks again. Cheers!
I used mineral spirits to wipe it off. Another option is letting it all dry and sanding it down to the stain.
@@Ben.Builds. stain or poly?
Would this same process work on a wood countertop coated with epoxy clear coat?
I haven’t worked with epoxy much, but I believe it would work. Epoxy works well in multiple pours. It should work! Let me know what happens.
What kind of pad did you use to buff ? You mentioned every other abrasion I believe but the buffing pads I believe .
I was just a cheap microfiber buffing pad.
You can also use a wool pad for the initial buffing and the a waffle or foam pad for the polishing part.
Great video. Did you ever try rotten stone for a final finish it Really enhances to finish.
Nice job, how many clear coats did you put on?
This was three coats
What should I wash it with between sands and buffing?
I just used a wet towel in between sanding. After it’s buffed and polished, I used just some mild surface cleaner. Don’t use anything with bleach.
How you going to buff out the cloudiness?
If its still cloudy, you can either go back to coarser grits and re sand and buff, or you can do one or two gloss coats with a sprayer or can.
it looks more shinny before you sand it and after you polished it, it went dull
I took the exact same steps that you did however, I ended up with some spider cracking. Any idea what to do with that? Any idea how it happened! Thanks for the video by the way.
I wonder if you sanded too far ?
@@Ben.Builds. honestly, I’m not sure what happened. I ended up re-sanding and using polyurethane several more times with 220 instead of 400 grit. The only thing I can think of is that I hadn’t waited quite long enough for to cure. All in all, it came out nicely just that one bump along the way! Thanks for replying by the way.
@@diehardfan173 glad it worked out!
What did you use for buffing compound?
How do you remove the cloudy look...... What type of compound and finish wax??? Thanks Tim...
I believe it was just Meguiars buff and polish. If you are getting a cloudy finish you will need to make sure you sanded the previous grit before moving to the finer grits.
need a video how to finish it evenly gloss , sir
Thanks!
What pads did you use to buff it
I believe it was just a cheap microfiber buffing pad from harbor freight.
Nice!
Any tips for applying oil-based poly over a painted surface? I know you should wait about a month for the paint to fully cure, but I'm curious if there are any other important points to be aware of.
Strip the paint.
If wet sand with high grit paper, it might be less cloudy.
Thanks for the tip!
Overkill
You didn't give the most important information as to what kind of buffing & polishing compound you used???
I believe I used meguiars buffing and polish compound. I am sure you could use just about any buffing and polish.
Does anyone know if I can apply polyurethane on top of the table I just finished with spar urethane?
I’m so confused as to why it doesn’t harden even though it’s been days since I finished it and I let it dry 24 hours between coats ( 3 were recommended) I have no bubbles just brush lines possibly because I ran out and didn’t have enough to spread.
My neighbour said to get finishing wax and it would look better but I need this to be extremely hard. It’s an outdoor table that I refinish for my mom.
Drying time will depend on temperature and humidity levels. Polyurethane requires 30 days to fully cure.
To the best of my knowledge, spar urethane is UV resistant, but not as hard as polyurethane. I accidentally sprayed poly over spar. Called the manufacturer and they said go with it. (All oil based)
@@davidconnors8830 thank you for your help
Brushing not best way for smooth finishes,wipe or spray best,brush is a never win!!!!!
I have a table top that looks just like your project at the begging, I do not own buffer so can I just use mineral spirits to finish it up and get the color back? or would it still look cloudy?
I’m not sure. You’ll have to give it a shot and let me know!
This turned out nice. What is the name of the buffing compound and polishing compound? What did you use to wash it off?
I believe it was some McGuires compound. I just used soap and water to clean it.
@@Ben.Builds. "I believe"??? While I fully appreciate your taking the time to make a video to share what you did but if you're going to make "how to" UA-cam video's you should know, not guess, what it was that you used to do the job. Just sayin
@@AncientApparatus I made the video over a year ago. I don’t have all the answers, just sharing my experiences.
What a mess. Thin your polly. I do 60/40. Lays down flat. Takes more coats but gets you that mirror finish. Also wet sanding between coats with 1000.
Thanks !
I just used poly over my painted drawers and it’s patchy and streak marks. What brush do you use?
@@karenwalker3958 If I am going to bush on the poly, my best results have been foam brushes. I usually spray the poly now, it’s seems to work out better.
I don't think you should have to do this, if the poly was applied correctly in the first place. It is self-leveling.
True. It was most likely caused by either applying the second coat too soon or by the high temperature.
@@Ben.Builds. with that said, I am yet to apply a poly correctly myself 😆😆
What buffing and polishing compound did you use?
U need something like mcquires m100 to get the sanding marks out. Ull need to do more buffing then this guy did too. You need to look at it in the light to see how cloudy it is and to tell how much buffing u need to do. After that u want to finish with something less abrasive like mcguires ultimate compound and then finish it off with a polishing compound.
@@timm5970 will this work for a water based polyurethane as well?
@detroitstreetfilms never tried it but I imagine it would make no difference. It's essentially just sanding
@@timm5970 I guess I was referring more to the kind of rubbing and polishing compounds you used.
@@detroitstreetfilms yeah they are basically just liquid sandpaper
Since coats of poly don’t fuse together like lacquer, how do you keep from getting halo’s in the finish?
Shit, I did 3 coats and my poly doesn't seem nearly as thick as what you are showing
That's way cloudy. It's not going to look good in the light
I think it looks worse after you did it
This guy is so lost,its not a car or metal surface,lol😂😂😂😂
THAT IS THE MOST HORRIBLE FINISH I HAVE EVER SEEN.
ARE YOU KIDDING?
BACKWATER GARBAGE
Yep. That’s what happens sometimes. Many different factors can effect the finish. Could have been an old can of poly, weather, humidity, or putting more coats on too soon. This video is to show how to fix the problem.
@@Ben.Builds. Pretty mean comment above! Disregard it man. You can still work that table and have it look really really good. Sand some more to get out those final craters, use a better/thicker twisted wool pad and set the rpm on your buffer if it is variable speed to between 1400 and 1600. Don't use too much polish next time you do it. The friction is what is gonna shine that mf up! Finishing is a learning process. Don't let this discourage you!
Let's see your UA-cam video on how you do it... oh, you don't have any cause you're just a nerd with a keyboard.
Awesome!!
NAHHHH bro you can't leave it cloudy then end the video lolllll now we all got cloudy tables :(
Haha just make sure to spend enough time eat each grit or it will be a little cloudy.
@@Ben.Builds. thanks bud!