Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent. Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!
Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved. I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer). Like a new printer!!!
Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers. They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away! This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go... Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast. Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!
So you run in stealthChop2 with no missed steps? From the datasheet, it seems you can just leave them in standalone mode and adjust current with trimpot, no need to program with the UART interface.
Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.
Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.
By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.
Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.
HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.
Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.
Tom, I really liked this video, but the "sideways" shots that were interjected every so often didn't really look great. If it's to indicate towards an object you're holding it works fine, but the rest of it doesn't really look great to me. The fact that it changes to 30fps makes it stand out a bit more to me. Just my thoughts. Still a great video! I may buy a set of these for my FT-5.
Wow, you actually caught that! Yes, I know the side shot was less than perfect (out of focus, too), but it still felt better in there than leaving it out. Might need to get another GH5 one day for 4k60 everywhere ;-)
Yeah -- I've noticed other channels / TV shows do the same thing, but to me it always feels like the cameraman and host are out of sync on which camera the host was supposed to be looking at. I'd much rather see an over-the-shoulder looking down at whatever you're working on as an alternate view.
The change in frame rate distracted me too. But I kind of liked the side shot, it has a nice aesthetic to it. It was only the frame rate that caught me off guard
Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor. Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference. kevin
I absoluteley agree to you! While pc is a good thing in many places, in this case it can acutally lead to some misconception, as transfer protocols that require subscription (such as MQTT) exist too, but they have completely different applications. Still, Tom is a great guy
@@mcintyr100 , you know these are edited, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight? That means every time TS stumbles , he's actually making a bit of a joke. Sorry to tell you this, 'Murrikkkan!, you're not too bright.
Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?
Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?
since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos
omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.
I think I've understood almost everything on adapting the Marlin firmware, but that hardware part was far to fast for me! Personally I would need a step-by-step instruction. I know how to solder, that's not the point.
Resist doing a screenshot of the schematics. Pause and draw them yourself. The act of drawing them will help with visualization when doing the actual hookup. Everybody knows that we get faster at procedures the more we do them - this is because we are almost thinking in parallel, not series - like the first time we do a "step by step" wiring something. You can get past this serial thinking very quickly by pre-drawing the diagram yourself. I mean, a diagram on a video only needs to be about 3 seconds.
After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!
I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!
The amount of people in the comment section that can't take a joke is amazing... smh Hello, UA-cam comment section! One of the most-asked questions here is "will this work with boards like the RAMBo (mini) that have integrated drivers?" - short answer: Yes! The driver's step/dir/enable signals are typically also available on a header for each axis - connect those signals to the pins on your new driver (and plug your motor into the new driver) and you're in business. Works for both replacing blown drivers and for upgrading to something nicer!
A lot of people (Me included) want to add this to the Prusa i3 MK2, as a decent amount of viewers do own an i3 MK2, would you be willing to show us how to do it (and maybe comment on the MK2.5 Upgrade as well as some of us (Myself included) have already ordered it. :) Keep up the great work Thomas! Been a fan for ages. Thank you very much!
Hello Thomas! I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers. With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year. Best regards from Köln, Germany!
Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.
Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.
I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there. I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?
Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?
Awesome video. The type only you can do! exactly why I subscribe. You make it easy to follow along and this video will be relevant for years just like your other firmware/hardware vids.
Hmmm. So I'm figuring out pins to try this on my GT2560 board. Seems like the MOSI/MISO/SCK pins in AUX3 on the RAMPS board are present in the SD card header on mine. Don't really mind losing SD but since it's SPI I think both should work - Guess we'll find out :) Looks like the select pins just go to arbitrary pins to the chip so hopefully I can use some of the spare endstop pins or similar...
Nice :) But I don't get how the motors could run even more silent with stealthchop than with spreadcycle. I'm running one of my printers with TMC2100 and spreadcycle and there is no motor whine or anything. All I hear are the bearings..?
depends on speed and motor current it will be louder. stealthchop is definitely quieter than spreadcycle in that regard. Also spreadcycle has motor whine at 12v... at least for me it did. 24v did the trick.
digibluh: this depends on the voltage of the motors used.... for the tmc drivers the supply voltage should be typically 3 to 4 times the motor voltage... So 3 to 4 volt motors should run with a 12v supply. 5 to 8 volt motors with 24v supply. NOTE that if you are using 2 Z-motors in series these motors should be 3 to 4 volt types and the x and y motors should be 5 to 8 volt types and you should use a 24v supply !
Tom - You and Joel have quickly become my go-to gurus for all things 3D printer. Your videos are great for learning, even if my feeble Boomer brain occasionally has trouble keeping up. In following this video I heard you mention that with the TMC 2100 drivers you no longer have to manually calibrate them. My son is running a maker build i3 clone with an MKS Gen L board and A4288 drivers but I just purchased TMC 2208 stepper drivers, which I assume are an upgrade of the 2100s. I’d prefer to use software to handle the calibration if it will be more reliable so any advice you can give on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work and thanks in advance.
I couldn't wait for your next video to explain how to connect these drive on spi with the display. So I checked the diagram of the board to identify the miso, mosi, sck. Then I mapped other pin to CS and I'm glad to say it work. Now I'm working to replace the endstop...
Thanks for your reply. The issue turned out to be a faulty TMC2130 stepper. Weird because it worked fine in SPI , but caused the SD to stop working whenever it was in the board.
Hi, thanks for the great video, I just ordered the drivers. When you place the drivers (7:39), I see no jumpers underneath on the RAMPS. When you program (13:40) I read 16 microsteps in your firmware. Doesn’t no jumpers mean no microstepping? And with the 256 stepping of the 2130, do we need 16th microstepping on the RAMPS? Thanks!
Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?
when you're using a ramps and a simple display, both of the aux slots are used. hope you make the video that shows how to use other pins as soon as possible!
Done! I soldered SDO, SCK and SDI on top of the AUX3 connector on the LCD board, and then remapped CS_X and CS_Y on the unused 57 and 58 pins, in "pins_RAMPS.h" >>> #define X_CS_PIN 57 #define Y_CS_PIN 58 Hope it help :)
You can use all the Data Pins in Parallel to the Display as he explained. You only have to use some other CS Pins. I Have changed my X_CS to D66 and the Y_CS Pin to 44 in Marlin. (pins_ramps.h) Like that you can use the Display and all the Stepper Drivers at the same time.
When set to spread cycle is it still quieter than the old drivers? I am thinking of putting these on my Sienci Mill One. would you imagine there would be anything different setting that up compared to what you showed for the 3d printer?
Will it work on my Tevo?? Just pulling your leg.:D Thanks for this video. Waiting for my MK3, then I am going to rebuild and modify my Anet A8. Tech reviews like this is great! Hope you going to do more like them.
There are some words in International English that are keep being prohibited "over-the-pond" (U.S.of A.) . Thomas is just being oddly-politically-correct.
Is there any benefits using the TMC2130 over TMC2100 if i don't plan to use the UART interface? i see it has features such as CoolStep ,stallGuard and dcStep that the TMC2100 is missing, but they might be useless anyway without the UART connection? Great video btw!
I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa
Tom, there is a pretty important piece of info missing from this video. Unlike any driver we've worked with before, these suddenly care about how you power them up. Motor voltage has to come up before logic voltage, and logic has to go out before Motor voltage. I can't fathom why they wouldn't just put a diode somewhere to prevent this annoyance, but giving these drivers logic voltage only has a chance to blow them. I know, because it happened to me. Only when it happened I was quite frustrated and very confused because the only place where this is mentioned is in Waterott's FAQ page. No videos, no announcements, no anything to make the fact more widely known. Were it not for the fact that I hadn't been able to find my way to Waterott's page before it happened, I wouldn't have received a replacement. In a nutshell, people need to be warned that they can't have a USB cable providing power to the board from a computer or an OctoPi without the power supply being on too. USB has to be unplugged before the printer is turned off, and USB cannot be plugged in before turning on the printer's power supply. For such a divergence as this is from what has become common knowledge regarding 3D printer electronics, I am utterly dissatisfied with how it was, or in this case seemingly wasn't, mentioned a lot more and with more urgency. Some people have scolded me saying I shouldn't be connecting the outputs of two regulated sources together. Wouldn't this be common knowledge if printers were failing every time someone hosted GCODE to them from a computer? Most reprap boards take 5V power from an onboard regulator and from USB, but there's no isolation between them. And need I mention the many side by side VRM's that supply CPU's on motherboards? Anyways, I digress. I doubt many people will know how to, or even be able to remove JUST the 5V connection from the USB side of the board while maintaining the data connections. It's not like there's a wire one can just cut.
Awesome guide!I am thinking of upgrading to these drivers. They run smoother so you should get better prints right?It would be nice if you also demonstrated print quality comparison between the two drivers. If noise wasn't a problem would you recommend them? Thanks :)
+Core3D 3D Printing it could work, but you'd need a very rigid setup and set stallguard to quite a high sensitivity. An active sensor is probably the better choice there.
As AUX3 is being used, I guess there's a challenge having the adapter PCB for the 12864 RepRap Discount display installed. I assume, that other pins on AUX1 and/or AUX2 can be used as well, even though it probably will require a bit of modifications in the pins_RAMPS.h file....
Could you please do a short video on this but with a delta style printer such as the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus??Would love to to do this mod to my Linear Plus and make it silent and smoother.Thank you
Hi Thomas. At 2:34 of your video, That drv8825 caught my attention, i'm building a printer from scratch and bought those drivers. Why does it have a resistor and a jumper soldered on it? Sorry about my english.
I'm too lazy to check the pinout but he was probably playing with decay modes. You can make them less annoying and more imprecise by pulling the decay pin high or low... not really sure which offhand. But get yourself some trinamic drivers, 2208/2224 for normal homing or 2209/2226 for sensorless. It's a really big difference
Excellent Video! Thank you so much. Upgrading to TMC2130 made it so much easy. Now, looking forward to changing pins video (from Aux3 to Aux 2? so that it doesnt interfere with using LCD) and another video for transferring old Marlin setup to new one. Great work as always!
Hi krishnakumar You can use all the Pins in parallel to the LCD except for the Cable Select Pins. I just changed the the two CS Pins for X and Y in Marlin (pins_ramps.h) X_CS_PIN to 66 and Y_CS_PIN to 44. Works like a charm
Hi Thom, do you want on dolly or another printer connect a large LCD and explain the more larger software on that LCD? I mean: you have the usual software, but also the more comprehensive software how you can use that software on that LCD? can you give a tour (of that software) on that LCD? friendly greetings from The Netherlands! Rob.
i know you planned on doing another vid adressing the wiring when an LCD screen uses the AUX-3 port but I would need to get that done soon, is there a tutorial somewhere on the internet already for that?
Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?
Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?
if you need to do a new marlin configure video, lin_advance, UBL, possible firmware retraction, and fil width with volumetric are some complex features (at least the advance k value and UBL)
Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.
Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago
Can these be wired up directly to an MKS v1.4 board? Bought some of these drivers a while back, had no idea how to use them until I saw this video. For some reason they came with all of the pins soldered on down, trying to figure out if I need to change that.
Any where I can find the instructions for switching the pin outs from Aux 3 to Aux 1 or two (I am only using the 2130 on the X and Y), I know you will have a video soon, but I am over eager.
Alright, figured it out. For Marlin/Ramps 1.4 in your Pins_Ramps.h arduino file change define X_CS_PIN to 44 and Y_CS_PIN to 64 (change the jumpers on the ramps board using a pinout diagram reprap.org/mediawiki/images/c/ca/Arduinomega1-4connectors.png). Next (and this may not be the best way of doing this) I physically soldered my SDo, SCk, and SD1 jumpers directly to the header tips on the LCD jumper board (the solder points are fiddly, use a multi-meter to check for shorts).
So I got a set of these and the question I have is, what if I want to do Sensorless Z axis homing as well? How could I accomplish that? A bit of backstory. My MK2 clone used mechanical endstops as I detest inductive/conductive/etc sensors and I'd prefer to keep it that way. Plugging in the Mechanical endstops just causes the Z-axis to lift a tiny bit and not do anything else, and having the Diag pin plugged in (as indicated in the video) causes it to continuously try to self destruct by running the motors even when bottomed out.
I tried it out on my highly modded Anet A8. It doesnt work with prusa type printers, because you have too much torque in the Z gear. Even lowered the Power for the Z Steppers to 400mah and the Homing Sensitivity for Z to 1. Doesnt work. Also the Bed itself uses a Spring which would make the measuring quite inaccurate, because it would always trigger somwhere else
Tom, thanks for video and all information your share with the community. I am in Brazil and I have a CR 10. Also I am building a 3D Printer from scratch - a cr10 clone. I am installing MKS-Gen 1.4 with TMC 2130 drivers on it. What are some other videos you recommend me to guide me in a full configuration of my build. Thanks a lot.
My question is.. I am waiting for my Prusa 2.5 upgrade.. makes you think.. why do they not include this already done and we can just also make a change on the board?
You could make it even quieter by converting to small noctua fans, those things have great airflow and are silent
And expensive for such small fans ;)
just if noctua made some blowerfans, that would be next level
Sintoxic
Very, but you usually only need two or three per printer maybe
wito
There are plenty of fan duct designs that work almost as well as squirrel cage blowers
My printer runs at 24v. Could I still use Noctua fans because I have only found 12v
Dude! This is insane! I've just installed 4 of these drivers on an ultimaker clone, in standalone mode and all I had to do was remove a couple jumpers, reverse the steppers and change z steps/mm. I didn't even have to change the firmware. It's like I have a completely new, silent, cooler, printer. I can't believe how great these work. It's completely silent.
Thank you for making us aware of these drivers. It's hands down absolutely the best upgrade one can make to a printer. Again, can't thank you enough!
Thanks Tom. I instantly bought the drivers after watching the video. I soldered them, wired them up and put them in wrong direction on my board. I fryed them. I ordered 3 new ones and now my printer is super quiet. Also i got the feeling that my print quality has improved.
I connected them to the icsp-header for spi. For the 3 CS-Pins, I could use my ZMin-Pins (Delta Printer).
Like a new printer!!!
Since theirs a couple of people asking about the TMC 2208's I'll talk about them briefly. First off, yes they do have Stealthchop2, but i'm afraid I have no way of comparing it to the 2130 version, i'm running a large (300mmx300mmx350mm) printer on them using some very beefy 0.9degree steppers.
They are virtually silent, I have to check its running sometime and i'm usually sat 3 feet away!
This is on a RADDS board running Reprapfirmware 1.19 using a 24v power supply which is pretty esoteric as far as configs go...
Configuration is very different, you can use them as direct drop in replacements for the A4988's and they just work, however to adjust them you need to use a serial interface, theres no SPI support on these, and currently Marlin does not support this method. I built an programming board to do this, since my Z axis is very heavy (large alu plate on a openbuilds frame) and stealthchop wasn;t strong enough for me. There's a desktop app for this which I used to switch the board for my Z axis into Spreadcycle, the noise is irreverent since the x axis doesn't go very fast.
Be aware the serial pins are not connected at first you need to connect a solder jumper on the underside of the board, which can be fiddly (especially if like me you accidentally solder the pins on first! I'll try and answer any questions, but I would say if your not sure and using Marlin, get the 2130's since you'll get all the features Tom talks about. If your not using Marlin, its a hard choice since i'm not sure on the status on the TMC support in other firmwares. For me they are super quiet and awesome, but my hardware is a bit off the norm!
So you run in stealthChop2 with no missed steps? From the datasheet, it seems you can just leave them in standalone mode and adjust current with trimpot, no need to program with the UART interface.
Hi Jamie, Yes that's right, the XY and E are doing exactly that, however the Z axis did need to be changed to Spreadcycle which you can only do via the serial programming.
Hi npgoalkeeper_ With the 2208's no firmware i'm aware of supports all the features on RADDS, Reprapfirmware itself runs fine but lacking the networking features, so if it ever supports the serial interface and featureset in theory the board would be fine, however RADDS is a bit of an edge case so its hard to tell what will happen. the Reprapfirmware guys do have a good chunk of the TMC features working on the Duet Boards, but they use the 2660 series drivers i'm not sure how different they are to 2130's or 2208's so I can't recommend picking up the RADDS if you want more than basic features with the TMC stepper drivers. I think its totally possible as long as the firmware support it, but RADDS is a 32bit board so the standard Marlin doesn't work on it.
Thanks for the info on the 2208. Very helpful.
Now, Marlin 1.1.8 support 2208, have you tried this version ? i am waiting mks version of 2208 from aliexpress :)
By the time you've bought a controller and 4x tmc2130 drivers then soldered it all up and reconfigured marlin you might as well have bought a Duet and be able to run 2.8A motors on tmc2660 in silence plus all other benefits. But as an instructional video it was good it shows you how to do it.
Exactly the sort of technical vids I love. Thank you Tom
Yeah, he finally made video for normal human beings. This is something that regular people with jobs can watch. :)
Yeah for the nube like me this is gold ! I'm learning so much with Tom's vids
Just got my old Prusa I3 Czar upgraded with these (sort of a why not upgrade while doing a bunch of other tweaks) and they work just as advertised/reviewed. Your guide was all that I needed to get them together, soldered/wired up and Marlin configured. Thanks for laying the groundwork! So much smoother and the silent running claims are not exaggerated... about all i hear is my fan and bed springs wiggling at this point... night and day from the old unknown vintage A4988s on there previously.
HEY, great timing! I was just digging through the data sheets for these drivers last night. The SPI connection was particularly compelling to me. I also saw reference in the literature to an encoder input, but according to Trinamic that was an error... oh well: I would like a simple on-chip solution to close the loop, but these will do for now. I plan to put them through their paces after the holiday with 2 Amp steppers at higher speeds, so we’ll see how they hold up. If they fry, I'll give the TMC2660 a go.
Awesome video Tom, really useful and worth looking into the TCM2130's. I use TCM2100 and love them. Was impressed with how Prusa used the feedback of these new chips to add in lots of "fail safe" and error checking - just what the next generation of 3D printers need.
Tom, I really liked this video, but the "sideways" shots that were interjected every so often didn't really look great. If it's to indicate towards an object you're holding it works fine, but the rest of it doesn't really look great to me. The fact that it changes to 30fps makes it stand out a bit more to me.
Just my thoughts. Still a great video! I may buy a set of these for my FT-5.
Wow, you actually caught that! Yes, I know the side shot was less than perfect (out of focus, too), but it still felt better in there than leaving it out. Might need to get another GH5 one day for 4k60 everywhere ;-)
Yeah, not sure why people do that. Always hated those. Never made sense to me.
Yeah -- I've noticed other channels / TV shows do the same thing, but to me it always feels like the cameraman and host are out of sync on which camera the host was supposed to be looking at. I'd much rather see an over-the-shoulder looking down at whatever you're working on as an alternate view.
The change in frame rate distracted me too. But I kind of liked the side shot, it has a nice aesthetic to it. It was only the frame rate that caught me off guard
I liked it Tom, but noticed the frame rate drop too.
Thomas you are AMAZING at what you do. Your public speaking skills are very good, and have a very clever sense of humor.
Thank you for what you do, it makes a positive difference.
kevin
Don't be afraid of saying the term "slave" when you explain the SPI interface! It's a master-slave communication.
I absoluteley agree to you! While pc is a good thing in many places, in this case it can acutally lead to some misconception, as transfer protocols that require subscription (such as MQTT) exist too, but they have completely different applications. Still, Tom is a great guy
Jonathan McIntyre
Relax dude it's a joke.
Or he doesn't want to get demonetized.
Get used to it and move on, world's changing.
@@mcintyr100 , you know these are edited, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight? That means every time TS stumbles , he's actually making a bit of a joke.
Sorry to tell you this, 'Murrikkkan!, you're not too bright.
Hey Tom, Any idea when we'll be getting that video explaining different pin usage when we have an LCD? Or maybe a video explaining how to update firmware without having to reconfigure it every time?
I was looking for the videoon the pin usage too... Seems Tom has forgotten about it :/
Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?
Yes, Tom. Please give us that lcd instruction!
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
You could just hook up the tmcs in parallel.
I am so glad to see another "How to" video from you Thomas. These made me subscribe a year ago;)
Very interesting and informative. I have been building a camera slider with a TMC2130 and I am loving how silent it is!
since i saw tom's mk3 video, i fell in love with the 2130, i was looking into integrating the 2130 in my ramps, suddenly the youtube subscription notification showed up on time :), thanks tom , love your videos
I was about to buy one of these but were confused concerning the variety of the tmc family. Thanks for clearing me up, Tom!
Trinamic For The Win!!! I love the TMC2660 drivers on my Duet WiFi. Excellent video, Thanks Tom!
omg. this is SO GOOD. So detailed. Some of it ("this is a comment") is really basic, but I probably benefit in other seconds where I have dumb questions. For me, this is the part of 3D printing that isn't well-discussed: how to change driver boards, fundamental changes.
I think I've understood almost everything on adapting the Marlin firmware, but that hardware part was far to fast for me! Personally I would need a step-by-step instruction. I know how to solder, that's not the point.
+Cat Pause on the wire diagrams! All the info should be in there, but I'll try to get the diagrams up on the website as well.
Resist doing a screenshot of the schematics. Pause and draw them yourself. The act of drawing them will help with visualization when doing the actual hookup. Everybody knows that we get faster at procedures the more we do them - this is because we are almost thinking in parallel, not series - like the first time we do a "step by step" wiring something. You can get past this serial thinking very quickly by pre-drawing the diagram yourself. I mean, a diagram on a video only needs to be about 3 seconds.
After 3 months of using TMC2130's on my x and y axis, I removed them both today and refitted the original 4988 drivers, heres why. With the 2130s fitted I found that yes they ran very quiet, but they ran very hot, so hot that you must provide extra active cooling ( thats more fan noise). I found that I had to turn the print speed down quite a lot, plus the accel by a substantial amount too. I also noticed that both my X and Y motors ran a lot hotter (too hot to hold my hand on) even though they were running at a slower print speed. My printing was also unreliable as it often failed during the print with missed steps and layer shift all due to the 2130 drivers overheating. So, overall the TMC2130 drivers are nice and quiet, but if you want reliable prints every time, and at a faster speed, then I recommend to stick with the 4988 drivers and just get used to the musical noise!
I just finished adding these to my Original Prusa i3 Mk2, following this guide. I had to swap the Mini Rambo board out for one that supports removable drivers - I went with a generic MKS Gen 1.4. Since the Original i3 Mk2 has an LCD, I changed the CS pins to use the board's servo pins (which I don't use): 11, 6, 5, and 4. I had to reconfigure vanilla Marlin from scratch, since the Prusa fork of Marlin is so far out of sync with vanilla, it doesn't support the 2130s (except in the Mk3 fork of course, which would have been even more work to back-port). Re-configuring vanilla Marlin from scratch for the original i3, but with a MKS Gen board ended up being the hardest part of the whole process. Once I got Marlin working using A4988's I had laying around, the rest was relatively easy. The whole process took me about 1.5 days. With a printer that has a vanilla Marlin config already, like an Anet or Creality, it probably only would have been 1/2 day. My printer went from 75 dB max during printing (as measured by an app on my phone) to 60 dB. Wow! Definitely worth it! Thanks for the awesome video, Tom!
The amount of people in the comment section that can't take a joke is amazing... smh
Hello, UA-cam comment section!
One of the most-asked questions here is "will this work with boards like the RAMBo (mini) that have integrated drivers?" - short answer: Yes!
The driver's step/dir/enable signals are typically also available on a header for each axis - connect those signals to the pins on your new driver (and plug your motor into the new driver) and you're in business. Works for both replacing blown drivers and for upgrading to something nicer!
Thomas Sanladerer will you post short video how to do it?
Thanks Thomas.
What about other boards with integrated drivers? like the Tarantula MKS v1.4?
Not without some annoying and fragile hackery.
A lot of people (Me included) want to add this to the Prusa i3 MK2, as a decent amount of viewers do own an i3 MK2, would you be willing to show us how to do it (and maybe comment on the MK2.5 Upgrade as well as some of us (Myself included) have already ordered it. :) Keep up the great work Thomas! Been a fan for ages. Thank you very much!
will it work/be beneficial on a delta
You are just the neatest person. This information is super helpful, thanks for sharing!
What obout 2208, do they have the same functionality but without the missed steps feedback etc.
ORSM, thx for yet an high quality video, with reasonably in depth explanation, u'r the master
With the TMC, it might be a good idea to revisit the water cooling hotend - as the hotend cooling fan is now the loudest part of my printer...
Your video production is on point,Tom! You've come a long way :)
Hello Thomas!
I have to thank you for all the Know-how you share with the community. I really appreciate your work and I'm a huge fan of what you do with 3D printers. For me as an electrical engineering student I do have to say that the quality of your information is amazing. I would love to see more engineering updates for DIY 3D printers.
With 2018 heading infront of us I wish you all the best for the new year and I hope to see you soon in the new year.
Best regards from Köln, Germany!
Get my nerd on? ALWAYS.
Haha you're a nerd... My favorite nerd! I love your channel!
:O====
odinata I haven't. Not yet!
really interesting. just ordered two for my very noisy repstrap build
Nice video. And about time stepper drivers for these machines are updated. Take a look at the development that has happened for ESCs for multicopters (FPV/Racers) over the last couple of years. It's a world of difference. I'm sure this is a nice step. But also that there are plenty more optimization ahead of us.
Good job Thomas! Thanx for giving me some new things i have to do on my printer.
Great job as usual, I look forward to the setting up Marlin 1.1.6 video. I've been debating moving from 1.1.4.
Looking good @ 60FPS! Keep up the fantastic work Tom!
Awesome video! I can now hear all of the other mechanical noises my Robo R1 makes. Time to start printing some NinjaFlex dampers and ordering new linear bearings.
I would love a video giving an overview of everything involved with the electronics and control solution out there.
I'm looking into upgrading my ardunio mega/ramps1.4 based printer to a better control board/stepper drivers, but I'm a bit lost, is it a good idea to move to 32 bit yet or should I wait till marlin catches up?
Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?
Awesome video. The type only you can do! exactly why I subscribe. You make it easy to follow along and this video will be relevant for years just like your other firmware/hardware vids.
that soldering iron looks beautifull
No Doubt. I am very jealous! :D
Hmmm. So I'm figuring out pins to try this on my GT2560 board. Seems like the MOSI/MISO/SCK pins in AUX3 on the RAMPS board are present in the SD card header on mine. Don't really mind losing SD but since it's SPI I think both should work - Guess we'll find out :) Looks like the select pins just go to arbitrary pins to the chip so hopefully I can use some of the spare endstop pins or similar...
Nice :) But I don't get how the motors could run even more silent with stealthchop than with spreadcycle. I'm running one of my printers with TMC2100 and spreadcycle and there is no motor whine or anything. All I hear are the bearings..?
depends on speed and motor current it will be louder. stealthchop is definitely quieter than spreadcycle in that regard. Also spreadcycle has motor whine at 12v... at least for me it did. 24v did the trick.
digibluh Maybe I‘m just lucky🤭 I‘m 23 so I should still be able to hear the full audible spectrum 😅
digibluh: this depends on the voltage of the motors used....
for the tmc drivers the supply voltage should be typically 3 to 4 times the motor voltage...
So 3 to 4 volt motors should run with a 12v supply. 5 to 8 volt motors with 24v supply.
NOTE that if you are using 2 Z-motors in series these motors should be 3 to 4 volt types and the x and y motors should be 5 to 8 volt types and you should use a 24v supply !
Tom - You and Joel have quickly become my go-to gurus for all things 3D printer. Your videos are great for learning, even if my feeble Boomer brain occasionally has trouble keeping up. In following this video I heard you mention that with the TMC 2100 drivers you no longer have to manually calibrate them. My son is running a maker build i3 clone with an MKS Gen L board and A4288 drivers but I just purchased TMC 2208 stepper drivers, which I assume are an upgrade of the 2100s. I’d prefer to use software to handle the calibration if it will be more reliable so any advice you can give on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work and thanks in advance.
I couldn't wait for your next video to explain how to connect these drive on spi with the display. So I checked the diagram of the board to identify the miso, mosi, sck. Then I mapped other pin to CS and I'm glad to say it work. Now I'm working to replace the endstop...
Hi
Does your SD card reader still work?
I got 4 steppers set up fine. LCD still works, but SD no longer working.
Some type of SPI error me thinks
lemmingDev yes, everythings works fine. However I just used them for x and y. lcd fine, sd fine. Endstop detection fine.
Thanks for your reply. The issue turned out to be a faulty TMC2130 stepper. Weird because it worked fine in SPI , but caused the SD to stop working whenever it was in the board.
Fixed some soldering - all good now
Appreciate for your video, building a new printer, and your info was very helpful for the TMC2130! Thanks :)
Hi Thomas; great video! But... how could this be done with the MK2's Rambo mini 1.3a that include the motor drivers onboard?
I really want to add these drivers to my mk2 (I'm getting the mk2.5) but obviously having some of the mk3 features would be awesome)
When do you plan on doing the follow-up videos on reassigning the aux pins? I have the drivers sitting on my desk right now.
Wow! This looks great! I will definitely be upgrading my X and Y axis to these drivers for my new printer.
Hi, thanks for the great video, I just ordered the drivers. When you place the drivers (7:39), I see no jumpers underneath on the RAMPS. When you program (13:40) I read 16 microsteps in your firmware. Doesn’t no jumpers mean no microstepping? And with the 256 stepping of the 2130, do we need 16th microstepping on the RAMPS? Thanks!
Don't panic, choose trinamic!
Missed you Thomas! Like these kind of video's
Good video as always. Just wish they came a little more frequently. Always look forward to your videos.
Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?
when you're using a ramps and a simple display, both of the aux slots are used. hope you make the video that shows how to use other pins as soon as possible!
Agreed!
me too !
Benoit B writing a tutorial on doing this as we speak! Mines already working and it’s amazing!!!
Done! I soldered SDO, SCK and SDI on top of the AUX3 connector on the LCD board, and then remapped CS_X and CS_Y on the unused 57 and 58 pins, in "pins_RAMPS.h" >>> #define X_CS_PIN 57 #define Y_CS_PIN 58
Hope it help :)
You can use all the Data Pins in Parallel to the Display as he explained. You only have to use some other CS Pins. I Have changed my X_CS to D66 and the Y_CS Pin to 44 in Marlin. (pins_ramps.h) Like that you can use the Display and all the Stepper Drivers at the same time.
When set to spread cycle is it still quieter than the old drivers? I am thinking of putting these on my Sienci Mill One. would you imagine there would be anything different setting that up compared to what you showed for the 3d printer?
Will it work on my Tevo??
Just pulling your leg.:D
Thanks for this video. Waiting for my MK3, then I am going to rebuild and modify my Anet A8. Tech reviews like this is great! Hope you going to do more like them.
did tom ever show us how to configure the use of other pins in another video? for using the LCD as well as the driver functions ?
I bought 12 of those drivers yesterday!
Hey, are you saying you are the master of all us subscribers?
0calvin he is saying we are his slaves
There are some words in International English that are keep being prohibited "over-the-pond" (U.S.of A.) . Thomas is just being oddly-politically-correct.
Ski animal - yes, I got that. I was joking as well.
There is a saying in Russia, that goes something like this: "There is a joke in every joke". I do hope that it amuses You.
hey 😄
whats about the Tmc2208?
They have the silentchop2 Mode .
Should i buy the 2130 or the 2208? 😄
TMC2208 won't give you the "smart" features as neither software nor hardware support their UART interface. May as well get the TMC2100!
I thought the UART is only used for configuring them?
Thomas Sanladerer okay thanks
then i order some 2130 😄
it's Uart VS SPI, has 2.0a peak current vs 2.5a and no stallguard for hard endstops.... 2130 is fine.
Wow, this is awesome! Is it just me or shouldn't these enable (once it's in the software) auto bed leveling without extra sensors?
Is there any benefits using the TMC2130 over TMC2100 if i don't plan to use the UART interface? i see it has features such as CoolStep ,stallGuard and dcStep that the TMC2100 is missing, but they might be useless anyway without the UART connection? Great video btw!
Great in depth video as usual from you, wish you had a version showing it being done for some of us who can't get our nerd on quit right ;- )
that jumper looks tricky in some views what you got on there. Nice and informative videos you got on your channel
Do you have an idea of when you might have the video of using an LCD with the TMC2130 drivers and a RAMPS 1.4 board out?
I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa
Tom, there is a pretty important piece of info missing from this video.
Unlike any driver we've worked with before, these suddenly care about how you power them up. Motor voltage has to come up before logic voltage, and logic has to go out before Motor voltage. I can't fathom why they wouldn't just put a diode somewhere to prevent this annoyance, but giving these drivers logic voltage only has a chance to blow them.
I know, because it happened to me. Only when it happened I was quite frustrated and very confused because the only place where this is mentioned is in Waterott's FAQ page. No videos, no announcements, no anything to make the fact more widely known. Were it not for the fact that I hadn't been able to find my way to Waterott's page before it happened, I wouldn't have received a replacement.
In a nutshell, people need to be warned that they can't have a USB cable providing power to the board from a computer or an OctoPi without the power supply being on too. USB has to be unplugged before the printer is turned off, and USB cannot be plugged in before turning on the printer's power supply. For such a divergence as this is from what has become common knowledge regarding 3D printer electronics, I am utterly dissatisfied with how it was, or in this case seemingly wasn't, mentioned a lot more and with more urgency.
Some people have scolded me saying I shouldn't be connecting the outputs of two regulated sources together. Wouldn't this be common knowledge if printers were failing every time someone hosted GCODE to them from a computer? Most reprap boards take 5V power from an onboard regulator and from USB, but there's no isolation between them. And need I mention the many side by side VRM's that supply CPU's on motherboards? Anyways, I digress. I doubt many people will know how to, or even be able to remove JUST the 5V connection from the USB side of the board while maintaining the data connections. It's not like there's a wire one can just cut.
If sensorless homing doesn't work try disabling pullup ! Took my a while to figure it out.
Thanks so much for this, I'm in the process of rebuilding a printer and this will really help a lot.
Great video! But do you have tips or a guide on making it work with the lcd display?
Well done Tom. This may be a mod I'll look at in the future. Gotta get my feet wet in the 3D printing end first. Thanks.
7:50 nice. that's gotta be the smoothest plug ive seen yet.
Awesome guide!I am thinking of upgrading to these drivers.
They run smoother so you should get better prints right?It would be nice if you also demonstrated print quality comparison between the two drivers.
If noise wasn't a problem would you recommend them?
Thanks :)
8:51 I am really looking forward to that video! :)
Would this work with auto bed leveling? I'm not sure what pressure is need to actually detect a hard stop
+Core3D 3D Printing it could work, but you'd need a very rigid setup and set stallguard to quite a high sensitivity. An active sensor is probably the better choice there.
fyi, i picked my drivers up from digikey in canada. cheaper than ordering from US (conversion+shipping=$$) and they ship fast.
As AUX3 is being used, I guess there's a challenge having the adapter PCB for the 12864 RepRap Discount display installed. I assume, that other pins on AUX1 and/or AUX2 can be used as well, even though it probably will require a bit of modifications in the pins_RAMPS.h file....
Good stuff, thanks Tom! Love your tech videos. I just built a noisy printer and these would work great for shutting it up.
Hi, does the Marlin has been updated to new features you speak in the end of the video? The auto home if it loses steps. Thanks
Could you please do a short video on this but with a delta style printer such as the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus??Would love to to do this mod to my Linear Plus and make it silent and smoother.Thank you
Thanks Tom for a very good tutorial.
Hi Thomas. At 2:34 of your video, That drv8825 caught my attention, i'm building a printer from scratch and bought those drivers. Why does it have a resistor and a jumper soldered on it? Sorry about my english.
I'm too lazy to check the pinout but he was probably playing with decay modes. You can make them less annoying and more imprecise by pulling the decay pin high or low... not really sure which offhand. But get yourself some trinamic drivers, 2208/2224 for normal homing or 2209/2226 for sensorless. It's a really big difference
@@vedranlatin1386 thanks a lot for the tip!!!
Excellent Video! Thank you so much. Upgrading to TMC2130 made it so much easy. Now, looking forward to changing pins video (from Aux3 to Aux 2? so that it doesnt interfere with using LCD) and another video for transferring old Marlin setup to new one. Great work as always!
Hi krishnakumar You can use all the Pins in parallel to the LCD except for the Cable Select Pins. I just changed the the two CS Pins for X and Y in Marlin (pins_ramps.h) X_CS_PIN to 66 and Y_CS_PIN to 44. Works like a charm
Knu7Nuk3m thanks! I’ll give it a go..,
Hi Thom,
do you want on dolly or another printer
connect a large LCD
and explain the more larger software on that LCD?
I mean:
you have the usual software,
but also the more comprehensive software
how you can use that software on that LCD?
can you give a tour (of that software) on that LCD?
friendly greetings from The Netherlands!
Rob.
i know you planned on doing another vid adressing the wiring when an LCD screen uses the AUX-3 port
but I would need to get that done soon, is there a tutorial somewhere on the internet already for that?
Thomas, was this example on 12v? Also could you have a 12v setup with 2560/1.4 and run 24v or higher to the vmot and ground for the drivers only or would this affect the ability to control all the features through FW?
Tom, I'm really proud that you're chosing to set a good example.
Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?
if you need to do a new marlin configure video, lin_advance, UBL, possible firmware retraction, and fil width with volumetric are some complex features (at least the advance k value and UBL)
Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.
Tom will these drivers allow individual control of all steppers as the Z-axis on my printer uses 4 stepper motors one on each corner
Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago
Can these be wired up directly to an MKS v1.4 board? Bought some of these drivers a while back, had no idea how to use them until I saw this video. For some reason they came with all of the pins soldered on down, trying to figure out if I need to change that.
Do you have them running? I was also wondering about that.
Any where I can find the instructions for switching the pin outs from Aux 3 to Aux 1 or two (I am only using the 2130 on the X and Y), I know you will have a video soon, but I am over eager.
Alright, figured it out. For Marlin/Ramps 1.4 in your Pins_Ramps.h arduino file change define X_CS_PIN to 44 and Y_CS_PIN to 64 (change the jumpers on the ramps board using a pinout diagram reprap.org/mediawiki/images/c/ca/Arduinomega1-4connectors.png). Next (and this may not be the best way of doing this) I physically soldered my SDo, SCk, and SD1 jumpers directly to the header tips on the LCD jumper board (the solder points are fiddly, use a multi-meter to check for shorts).
This man trying really hard to not be cancelled.
So I got a set of these and the question I have is, what if I want to do Sensorless Z axis homing as well? How could I accomplish that?
A bit of backstory. My MK2 clone used mechanical endstops as I detest inductive/conductive/etc sensors and I'd prefer to keep it that way. Plugging in the Mechanical endstops just causes the Z-axis to lift a tiny bit and not do anything else, and having the Diag pin plugged in (as indicated in the video) causes it to continuously try to self destruct by running the motors even when bottomed out.
I tried it out on my highly modded Anet A8. It doesnt work with prusa type printers, because you have too much torque in the Z gear. Even lowered the Power for the Z Steppers to 400mah and the Homing Sensitivity for Z to 1. Doesnt work. Also the Bed itself uses a Spring which would make the measuring quite inaccurate, because it would always trigger somwhere else
Tom, thanks for video and all information your share with the community. I am in Brazil and I have a CR 10. Also I am building a 3D Printer from scratch - a cr10 clone. I am installing MKS-Gen 1.4 with TMC 2130 drivers on it. What are some other videos you recommend me to guide me in a full configuration of my build. Thanks a lot.
Thanks Tom, for yet another great Video!
My question is.. I am waiting for my Prusa 2.5 upgrade.. makes you think.. why do they not include this already done and we can just also make a change on the board?