Very clever idea -- it's the experience of Landy Lovers like you that keep these Iconic vehicles going and they will still be here in a few hundred years time . When all the modern cars have already been recycled ! ! !
You are very sharp eyed. My late sister participated in many VH (vehicule historique) rallies around France. I remember that Morzine rally well. The weather was bracing.
@@defendermodsandtravelsamazing, thats a lovely bit of history; my garden is luckily on a nice switchback for the rallye mont-blanc, theres even the remains of a slick on an alloy where its splines have sheered off sitting under a tree that I need to do something with! If you're passing and its on or you fancy a brew - feel free to message! I'll hopefully have my old 74 s3 with me that I need to drive out from Cumbria in Spring! (ps its the wettest I've seen it in 12 years the last week here). Keep up the videos they are very interesting and informative.
I am currently overlanding in Zimbabwe and not relishing the return to cold, wintery Britain but realise that all good things must end. I have a lot of material for new videos and will try to publish a few in the New Year. Feel free to post comments, supportive or otherwise, whenever you wish.
@@defendermodsandtravelsamazing enjoy! I've been to Zambia and I'll never forget that experience, other worldly, I'm more a lurker than a commenter but will try :)
They have been around for donkey's years. They are very effective with Pozi screws - the hammer blow drives them in as well as providing the twist, hence the bit doesn't jump out. With an air tool you are much more likely to damage the head of the screw. Use the impact tool to break the initial bond and something quicker to extract the screw.
Great functional solution to S3& Defender Hinges. The Series 2/2A had much nicer simple hinges with a replaceable drilled brass ball separating the door & post which worked well & were easy to replace if not exactly hi tec.
Thank you sir, for your bloody marvelous idea 👍 Land rover have no interest in utility anymore it would seem, their newer vehicles being made for less practical repair and use it would seem. So to keep these old proper ones going becomes more important for future generations to see where we lost our spirit of spannering for ourselves. I have new hinges for my wonderful 300Tdi farmy Pick-up, and also a range of nipples, lucky me, with some I think are a perfect fit for your B'y Marvelous design. I will paint 2K first with pin out then fit as you do. I hope your still getting away on adventures thank you for your time and knowledge 👍
I hope it goes well. A good, steady bench drill makes all the difference. My hinges are fitted now and are the real thing at 10% the price of the others :-)
Good man.....thought of doing this on the S3 I bought new in 1975....but never got around to it. I did try to know a pin out once.....gave up in the end would not budge. Fitted grease nipples to all my steering joints....still has several that were fitted in the factory in 75....also fitted a nipple on the parking brake joint bolted to the chassis.
Very clever young lad,must admit was unhappy when you dumped us here in Australia in 1770 but that is fine because the weather is great. Please say hello to the Queen for us.😁😁😁😁
Old man’s wise I like your attitude them fancy expensive Crome pieces don’t get you home my dad fluid films everything on his truck to he also uses red heavy duty cv axle and knuckle grease to put on the high rust areas he washes the underneath very good and makes sure it stays wet with oil theirs not a single bit of rust anywhere on his 2008 GMC Sierra and we live in the rust belt of western Pennsylvania he swears that the rubberized undercoating is made bye the auto industry to rot cars out sooner and sell you a new one and I believe him that salt dust is so fine it gets in everything and in between everything don’t ever raptor liner or bed line line x or other rubberize your undercarriage will give the salt a new spot to sit inbetween that and the actual paint intended for bare metal those aren’t meant for that
So it's the pin that deteriorates rather than the surrounding hinge plates? Can you buy replacement hinges? I have to 'lift and slam' my Wolf doors, great solution with the greasing, cheers.
You provide some useful information , thank you for posting your videos. i would advise cautious use of copper grease anywhere near aluminium. Add water to those two elements and you have a fine battery = galvanic corrosion. Nickel anti seize is kinder.
@@defendermodsandtravels There is a product called Tefgel. I have used it in marine applications and it is unsurpassed for corrosion elimination. Not a lubricant however. Wiring, fasteners, dissimilar metal contact, its uses are limited by our imaginations.
I'm unlikely to outlive my tin of Coppaslip, still giving sterling service since about 1985 to need to try anything else! You`d think that the aluminum bodywork would act as a sacrificial anode to keep all steel Land Rover parts pristine, but electrolysis apparently takes no prisoners! There used to be a theory that the change from positive to negative earth reduced vehicular rusting, but I'd put any correlation there down to paint technology improving.
Bill, i've recently acquired a 110 wolf that I intend on using for long-distance travel overland. It's really in great shape having been waxoil injected into the chassis and bulkhead from the factory and kept in Cyprus for most of its life. You've mentioned you've done this too on your example. Could you do a video on the maintenance of the chassis and bulkhead? There are videos out there but I'd very much appreciate your take on it. Cheers.
Hi, you are very lucky to own a Wolf and by the sounds of yours should be in great shape. You do however need to redo the corrosion protection periodically and keep the vehicle away from seawater - this is standard stuff. There are indeed several videos about protecting Land Rover chasses. Whilst I don't do it quite like the other guys their videos are just fine. I tend use my limited resources to do videos on topics not covered elsewhere. I'll pass on this one unless I can find a very different angle on the subject. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@defendermodsandtravels Thank you for the response. Having owned an '86 N/A 110 prior to the wolf, it is a big difference but the older ones have more character. One thing that concerns me is the fact it's a soft top so probably not ideal in terms of security. Would this prevent you from travelling to certain countries?
@@ptr6092 The short answer is no, I'd make it work for me. You'd need to give an awful lot of thought to security, storage and sleeping arrangements. I'd miss the roof rack where I carry things I dont want inside and the roof top tent which I love. In some countries they're a bit jumpy about anything military so be sensitive to that. Your vehicle would make a good solo camper or would be good for a couple with a ground tent. Where do you plan to go?
@@defendermodsandtravels I intend on doing an initial trip in the UK, then venturing out into spain, portugal, italy etc. I'm very new to this so I'll be learning as I go along. I was considering making a bed in the load space for now and adapting from there. The soft top wolf does have a very significant internal roll cage which could carry a roof rack and indeed may even be a stronger platform than the hard top on a civilian version. I completely sympathise re military sensitivity, particularly important given the wolf is still in service in some parts of the world.
what if you replace the pin with a slit pin a pin witch is hollow and has a slit running down one side then you could put the grease nipple in the top hole and plug the bottom one
Yes that might work too. I may even try converting my old hinges when I take them out, out of interest. Thanks for the suggestion. Others have drawn my attention to premium, greasable hinges offered by a few specialist manufacturers (at an astronomical price). They put the grease nipple at the end of hinge pin hole, as you suggest, and that certainly has some advantages.
Great content as always! As a side note there are several German suppliers that have a Hinge Set with Grease Nipples built into the vertical orientation of the pin but are as expensive as Optimill?
I wasn't aware but then I don't move in those lofty circles. I have now found the FerroForcia greasable hinges at €450 for a 2 door set (without fastenings and unpainted) or at €850 in anodised finish. A snip at the price. Thanks for the info.
These are Pozi screws? Try an impact driver with a clump hammer which should get the screws moving. Use penetrating oil of course. Failing that you will need to drill them out and use an extractor. For the replacements you can use Torx screws for added security. I got mine out with an impact driver and they were in good condition for reuse. Good luck,
Did you use a Drill Doctor to sharpen your bit ? I have a Drill Doctor 850. Brilliant kit. I can do do 2mm up to 16mm. Thank you Bill for keeping engineering alive and relevant.
It's a bit sharpener made by Sealey which is a large tool supplier here. This is a mid range model. I find it invaluable - there's nothing more frustrating than trying to drill with blunt bits.
@@defendermodsandtravels Absolutely. I am a stickler for watching the size and shape of swarf coming off a drill bit or milling cutter - Speaks volumes. Whilst I can sharpen by eye I prefer to let the machine do it. So many folk think they can sharpen bits but you see the horrid swarf coming off one side edge and you can see it's not right. In engineering there is tradesmen and craftsmen. The chasm between the 2 is wider than the rift valley.
It’s a shame the Defender has been discontinued. The revamped version is hideous. This channel seems like more evidence of the continued demand for the old style defender.
LR would not have been able to do this as the protruding grease nipple would not pass the safety regulations which required them to introduce this flat hinge design for the series 3. In reality this mod is unlikely to be an issue unless your vehicle needs inspection for import or is used somewhere with very strict roadworthyness inspections (In the UK this would fail an IVA but likely pass an MOT). Series 2A and before don't seem to be known for maiming pedestrians on their hinges so its unlikely to really be hazardous as its within the narrow tolerance between someone already having had a slap from the mirror to being fully ran over. None the less that is perhaps why no one on the aftermarket has taken on the liability for this design and instead hide them underneath if they bother with serviceability at all.
@@defendermodsandtravels welcome to the [not so] modern world of automotive design - yet more constraints for the engineers. Funny how the most distinctive vehicles tend to predate such requirements and the latest ones have all morphed into roughly the same shaped blob.
hello mr defender mods and trevels, this is really good! however, I have seen a flaw in the system! if I remove the screws from the hinges, the door is open! then with the tire lever I can force it open, that is correct - right? It seems to be a completely flawed system!
You are correct that the door hinges can be removed from the outside (you don't need a lever to do it) however I am not responsible for this aspect of the Defender design. It is quite common in the UK for the doors to be removed, usually for resale. There are several security measures which can be used. The first is to replace the screws with others which are harder to remove - Torx is popular alternative although there are other more exotic types available. There's also a security plate which can be fitted which prevents the door from being removed even if the hinges are undone. I need to look into this myself. Thanks for the comment.
At the rear I had a strong 2 pin diff (often mistakenly called 4 pin). I moved that to the front and discarded the single pin diff which was there . I installed an Ashcroft LSD at the rear, pegged for extra strength. It works pretty well.
@@defendermodsandtravels So you went for an LSD instead of a locker. That's interesting. If you ever fit an LSD in your transfer case would you do a before and after review, I think that would be of interest to many viewers. Thank you for your reply and best wishes. I enjoy watching your videos and find them very informative.
@@orangutanfan3179 I'll stick with the standard locker in the transfer box. Thw LSD at the rear is better than the standard diff except for the rare event of being cross axled. Locking diffs are too heavy, complex and expensive IMO. When on a long trip simplicity is the key. I will do a video shortly about the breakages on my recent African trip.
Interesting that your hinges have no provision for lubrication. On my Series III when you open the door fully there's a slot on the back side of the hinge where you can oil the centre pin. I'd never seen them before until I bought a set of Genuine NOS ones from Cyprus. When you close the door the slot isn't visible. It also says to lubricate every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) or 3 months in my Owner's Manual, so they've obviously increased the interval later on.
@@defendermodsandtravels I'll be interested to know. Yes the slots are fairly small. What will be even more interesting is a back-to-back test between your modification and the original!
Your universal lump hammer was impressive in all applications; no ball pein frippery here ! BTW I persevered with Alfatronix on a battery disconnect unit and bought some of their USB outlets also. Indirect sales sources apparently lack stock and it took a few attempts to connect with the in-house sales team. Where did you find your unit ?
I like the lump hammer because I find I get fewer arguments that way. I think I bought the Alfatronix from a marine equipment place. They always have good equipment for overlanders.
Land Rover tips from a man who looks like an elderly William Saddler. This is truly the pinacle of the internet :)
An elderly William Sadler? I'm not sure if that's meant to be complimentary. Another viewer called me an old fossel (sic).
@@defendermodsandtravels he is a great actor.
If the after market sellers had fitted grease nipples the hinges they would last longer and they wouldn’t make profit from us .lol
Very clever idea -- it's the experience of Landy Lovers like you that keep these Iconic vehicles going and they will still be here in a few hundred years time . When all the modern cars have already been recycled ! ! !
Currently watching this from my home in Morzine and enjoyed the rallye memorabilia in the garage!
You are very sharp eyed. My late sister participated in many VH (vehicule historique) rallies around France. I remember that Morzine rally well. The weather was bracing.
@@defendermodsandtravelsamazing, thats a lovely bit of history; my garden is luckily on a nice switchback for the rallye mont-blanc, theres even the remains of a slick on an alloy where its splines have sheered off sitting under a tree that I need to do something with! If you're passing and its on or you fancy a brew - feel free to message! I'll hopefully have my old 74 s3 with me that I need to drive out from Cumbria in Spring! (ps its the wettest I've seen it in 12 years the last week here). Keep up the videos they are very interesting and informative.
I am currently overlanding in Zimbabwe and not relishing the return to cold, wintery Britain but realise that all good things must end. I have a lot of material for new videos and will try to publish a few in the New Year. Feel free to post comments, supportive or otherwise, whenever you wish.
@@defendermodsandtravelsamazing enjoy! I've been to Zambia and I'll never forget that experience, other worldly, I'm more a lurker than a commenter but will try :)
Thank you for a brilliant video - from South Africa
had not seen a manual impact driver before, very good
They have been around for donkey's years. They are very effective with Pozi screws - the hammer blow drives them in as well as providing the twist, hence the bit doesn't jump out. With an air tool you are much more likely to damage the head of the screw. Use the impact tool to break the initial bond and something quicker to extract the screw.
I have one that was MY grandfathers, and I’m 63!
Thanks for another good video. I am always amazed by the lack of grease nipples on so many items that clearly benefit from them.
Fantastic upgrade, so simple to accomplish!
A bit of careful drilling. You need a decent drill press.
Great functional solution to S3& Defender Hinges. The Series 2/2A had much nicer simple hinges with a replaceable drilled brass ball separating the door & post which worked well & were easy to replace if not exactly hi tec.
Thank you sir,
for your bloody marvelous idea 👍
Land rover have no interest in utility anymore it would seem, their newer vehicles being made for less practical repair and use it would seem.
So to keep these old proper ones going becomes more important for future generations to see where we lost our spirit of spannering for ourselves.
I have new hinges for my wonderful 300Tdi farmy Pick-up, and also a range of nipples, lucky me, with some I think are a perfect fit for your B'y Marvelous design.
I will paint 2K first with pin out then fit as you do.
I hope your still getting away on adventures thank you for your time and knowledge 👍
What a fantastic solution to an age old problem. Well done gonna do this myself shortly thanks....
I hope it goes well. A good, steady bench drill makes all the difference.
My hinges are fitted now and are the real thing at 10% the price of the others :-)
This is brilliant - very much looking forward to watching more of your videos.
@@chrisdavie4660 You are welcome.
This is one of the best ideas I have seen and it's cheap.
Very nice idea and work, sir. I liked your cap! Best regards, from Brazil! 🇧🇷
I did sumilar, just druled the holes inside of the hinge and grees them and I do that realy often.
Cheers. 🍻
Good man.....thought of doing this on the S3 I bought new in 1975....but never got around to it.
I did try to know a pin out once.....gave up in the end would not budge.
Fitted grease nipples to all my steering joints....still has several that were fitted in the factory in 75....also fitted a nipple on the parking brake joint bolted to the chassis.
Thanks mate, I've been through a few hinges in my travels!
Yes well worth repairing your old original LR hinges. I’ve avoided the blue box parts an I have a very reliable series2a109.
Even if don’t agree with u I can’t argue new subscriber
Very clever young lad,must admit was unhappy when you dumped us here in Australia in 1770 but that is fine because the weather is great. Please say hello to the Queen for us.😁😁😁😁
I will mention you to the old girl next time I see her.
great idea, now done this to my 110,
An old-school solution that works!
Good video, ive been putting grease nipples in my hinges for years. You used to be able to get new pins, but that seem to dissapear.
Very simple solution 👍
I like simple, economical solutions.
@@defendermodsandtravels Genius is found in simplicity
brilliant idea i think i will give it a go on one of mine
Old man’s wise I like your attitude them fancy expensive Crome pieces don’t get you home my dad fluid films everything on his truck to he also uses red heavy duty cv axle and knuckle grease to put on the high rust areas he washes the underneath very good and makes sure it stays wet with oil theirs not a single bit of rust anywhere on his 2008 GMC Sierra and we live in the rust belt of western Pennsylvania he swears that the rubberized undercoating is made bye the auto industry to rot cars out sooner and sell you a new one and I believe him that salt dust is so fine it gets in everything and in between everything don’t ever raptor liner or bed line line x or other rubberize your undercarriage will give the salt a new spot to sit inbetween that and the actual paint intended for bare metal those aren’t meant for that
Great solution
Very good Idea !
Jens
So it's the pin that deteriorates rather than the surrounding hinge plates? Can you buy replacement hinges? I have to 'lift and slam' my Wolf doors, great solution with the greasing, cheers.
Great solution. Nice work.
You provide some useful information , thank you for posting your videos.
i would advise cautious use of copper grease anywhere near aluminium.
Add water to those two elements and you have a fine battery = galvanic corrosion.
Nickel anti seize is kinder.
Thanks for the good advice. Most greases work perfectly well as anti-seize compounds even if not designed for the job.
@@defendermodsandtravels There is a product called Tefgel. I have used it in marine applications and it is unsurpassed for corrosion elimination. Not a lubricant however. Wiring, fasteners, dissimilar metal contact, its uses are limited by our imaginations.
I'm unlikely to outlive my tin of Coppaslip, still giving sterling service since about 1985 to need to try anything else! You`d think that the aluminum bodywork would act as a sacrificial anode to keep all steel Land Rover parts pristine, but electrolysis apparently takes no prisoners! There used to be a theory that the change from positive to negative earth reduced vehicular rusting, but I'd put any correlation there down to paint technology improving.
@@philhealey449 Positive earth vehicles suffered more severe cooling system corrosion. That is why they changed.
@@nkelly.9 Evolution from germanium to silicon transistors in car radios and in alternator diodes is a more plausible explanation I suspect....
Bill, i've recently acquired a 110 wolf that I intend on using for long-distance travel overland. It's really in great shape having been waxoil injected into the chassis and bulkhead from the factory and kept in Cyprus for most of its life. You've mentioned you've done this too on your example. Could you do a video on the maintenance of the chassis and bulkhead? There are videos out there but I'd very much appreciate your take on it. Cheers.
Hi, you are very lucky to own a Wolf and by the sounds of yours should be in great shape. You do however need to redo the corrosion protection periodically and keep the vehicle away from seawater - this is standard stuff.
There are indeed several videos about protecting Land Rover chasses. Whilst I don't do it quite like the other guys their videos are just fine. I tend use my limited resources to do videos on topics not covered elsewhere. I'll pass on this one unless I can find a very different angle on the subject. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@defendermodsandtravels Thank you for the response. Having owned an '86 N/A 110 prior to the wolf, it is a big difference but the older ones have more character. One thing that concerns me is the fact it's a soft top so probably not ideal in terms of security. Would this prevent you from travelling to certain countries?
@@ptr6092 The short answer is no, I'd make it work for me. You'd need to give an awful lot of thought to security, storage and sleeping arrangements. I'd miss the roof rack where I carry things I dont want inside and the roof top tent which I love. In some countries they're a bit jumpy about anything military so be sensitive to that. Your vehicle would make a good solo camper or would be good for a couple with a ground tent. Where do you plan to go?
@@defendermodsandtravels I intend on doing an initial trip in the UK, then venturing out into spain, portugal, italy etc. I'm very new to this so I'll be learning as I go along. I was considering making a bed in the load space for now and adapting from there. The soft top wolf does have a very significant internal roll cage which could carry a roof rack and indeed may even be a stronger platform than the hard top on a civilian version. I completely sympathise re military sensitivity, particularly important given the wolf is still in service in some parts of the world.
what if you replace the pin with a slit pin a pin witch is hollow and has a slit running down one side then you could put the grease nipple in the top hole and plug the bottom one
Yes that might work too. I may even try converting my old hinges when I take them out, out of interest. Thanks for the suggestion.
Others have drawn my attention to premium, greasable hinges offered by a few specialist manufacturers (at an astronomical price). They put the grease nipple at the end of hinge pin hole, as you suggest, and that certainly has some advantages.
Brilliant!
Great content as always! As a side note there are several German suppliers that have a Hinge Set with Grease Nipples built into the vertical orientation of the pin but are as expensive as Optimill?
I wasn't aware but then I don't move in those lofty circles. I have now found the FerroForcia greasable hinges at €450 for a 2 door set (without fastenings and unpainted) or at €850 in anodised finish. A snip at the price. Thanks for the info.
Great idea mate but is the clearance sufficient between the pin and the bigger part of the hinge enough to allow the passage of grease?
Yes the grease gets through
If the pin is a hand fit then grease at 300 psi will find it’s way.
Really struggling to remove hinges because the screws are rounding, any advice appreciated ❤
These are Pozi screws? Try an impact driver with a clump hammer which should get the screws moving. Use penetrating oil of course. Failing that you will need to drill them out and use an extractor. For the replacements you can use Torx screws for added security.
I got mine out with an impact driver and they were in good condition for reuse.
Good luck,
Did you use a Drill Doctor to sharpen your bit ? I have a Drill Doctor 850. Brilliant kit. I can do do 2mm up to 16mm.
Thank you Bill for keeping engineering alive and relevant.
It's a bit sharpener made by Sealey which is a large tool supplier here. This is a mid range model. I find it invaluable - there's nothing more frustrating than trying to drill with blunt bits.
@@defendermodsandtravels Absolutely.
I am a stickler for watching the size and shape of swarf coming off a drill bit or milling cutter - Speaks volumes.
Whilst I can sharpen by eye I prefer to let the machine do it.
So many folk think they can sharpen bits but you see the horrid swarf coming off one side edge and you can see it's not right.
In engineering there is tradesmen and craftsmen. The chasm between the 2 is wider than the rift valley.
It’s a shame the Defender has been discontinued. The revamped version is hideous. This channel seems like more evidence of the continued demand for the old style defender.
great hack there sir
LR would not have been able to do this as the protruding grease nipple would not pass the safety regulations which required them to introduce this flat hinge design for the series 3.
In reality this mod is unlikely to be an issue unless your vehicle needs inspection for import or is used somewhere with very strict roadworthyness inspections (In the UK this would fail an IVA but likely pass an MOT).
Series 2A and before don't seem to be known for maiming pedestrians on their hinges so its unlikely to really be hazardous as its within the narrow tolerance between someone already having had a slap from the mirror to being fully ran over. None the less that is perhaps why no one on the aftermarket has taken on the liability for this design and instead hide them underneath if they bother with serviceability at all.
For heaven's sake put in an angled grease nipple if necessary with a plastic shroud over it.
@@defendermodsandtravels welcome to the [not so] modern world of automotive design - yet more constraints for the engineers. Funny how the most distinctive vehicles tend to predate such requirements and the latest ones have all morphed into roughly the same shaped blob.
hello mr defender mods and trevels, this is really good! however, I have seen a flaw in the system! if I remove the screws from the hinges, the door is open! then with the tire lever I can force it open, that is correct - right? It seems to be a completely flawed system!
You are correct that the door hinges can be removed from the outside (you don't need a lever to do it) however I am not responsible for this aspect of the Defender design. It is quite common in the UK for the doors to be removed, usually for resale.
There are several security measures which can be used. The first is to replace the screws with others which are harder to remove - Torx is popular alternative although there are other more exotic types available. There's also a security plate which can be fitted which prevents the door from being removed even if the hinges are undone. I need to look into this myself.
Thanks for the comment.
thank you mr. land rover man.
Do you use standard differentials on your Defender?
At the rear I had a strong 2 pin diff (often mistakenly called 4 pin). I moved that to the front and discarded the single pin diff which was there . I installed an Ashcroft LSD at the rear, pegged for extra strength. It works pretty well.
@@defendermodsandtravels So you went for an LSD instead of a locker. That's interesting. If you ever fit an LSD in your transfer case would you do a before and after review, I think that would be of interest to many viewers. Thank you for your reply and best wishes. I enjoy watching your videos and find them very informative.
@@orangutanfan3179 I'll stick with the standard locker in the transfer box.
Thw LSD at the rear is better than the standard diff except for the rare event of being cross axled. Locking diffs are too heavy, complex and expensive IMO. When on a long trip simplicity is the key. I will do a video shortly about the breakages on my recent African trip.
@@defendermodsandtravels I look forwards to it, thank you 👍
Interesting that your hinges have no provision for lubrication. On my Series III when you open the door fully there's a slot on the back side of the hinge where you can oil the centre pin. I'd never seen them before until I bought a set of Genuine NOS ones from Cyprus. When you close the door the slot isn't visible. It also says to lubricate every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) or 3 months in my Owner's Manual, so they've obviously increased the interval later on.
There are some tiny slots but they are ineffective. When I change the hinges I'll open up the old ones and see what they look like inside.
@@defendermodsandtravels I'll be interested to know. Yes the slots are fairly small. What will be even more interesting is a back-to-back test between your modification and the original!
Your universal lump hammer was impressive in all applications; no ball pein frippery here ! BTW I persevered with Alfatronix on a battery disconnect unit and bought some of their USB outlets also. Indirect sales sources apparently lack stock and it took a few attempts to connect with the in-house sales team. Where did you find your unit ?
I like the lump hammer because I find I get fewer arguments that way.
I think I bought the Alfatronix from a marine equipment place. They always have good equipment for overlanders.
They don’t put grease nipple’s in so that they can sell more hinges. Would not sell many if hinges worked for the life of the vehicle!!
Ugly but works! They should have put hinge inside like other normal vehicles!
That's a very good point.
Not many people EVER want to touch a grease gun for any reason.
We inhabit different worlds I think.