8 reasons you get NUMB HANDS when cycling
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
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The cutaway you did with the rolled hands was so smooth I honestly thought you had orange tipped fingernails for a second.
Following your advice, I've pretty much eliminated numb hands when I bought my latest bike...narrow saddle, lower saddle, less reach. I still need to widen the pedals a bit but I can comfortably ride 20-30 miles before anything starts feeling off. A few minutes break and I can be off again for the same distance. Given my favorite ride for a good cup of coffee is about 35 miles one-way, I'm good. Ride, drink coffee, ride home. No pain.
Wished I lived in the UK,id love to get a proper bike fit with James,he really knows what he's doing and it would be great to experience a proper fit. Not like the crap they dish out here in Australia!!
The only numb hands I get are from our appauling whether in the UK!
And that goes for our Summers also nowadays
Yeah,what happened to that global warming we were promised, we've gotten global dampening instead 12months round
This decade has been terrible in the UK,and we're halfway through it already.
appauling? whether? what happens to the englishmen?
Another masterclass by James
had my bikefit and we went 15mm wider on my stance and added alittle to my setback and bang way lighter on the front of the bike, my knees track better. botb resulting in more confort for me
My fitter gave me a 30 degree stem to try out, because I'm using my old CX race bike as a gravel bike, and it has a very low stack height. It hasn't 100% solved my issue, but it's a major step up. The angle also incurs an implicit shortening of the stem--so the 110mm stem only has something like an 85mm reach. When I get my next bike, I'll make sure the stack isn't so low.
Great masterclass! 👏
Hi James, big question I have is: As a new cyclist, not being used to the long and low road position… is my discomfort (not pain) actually discomfort that has to be partly “solved” through riding more and getting used to the position? f.e. my neck isn’t used to hold my head in this position for extended amounts of time and so on…
I ride an old hardtail MTB with swept back bars. I used to get numb fingers, but this week I've made a conscious effort to keep the weight off my hands by engaging my weak core, and so far it seems to be working because I can almost let go of bars while tucking.
One thing you did not mention is Gloves.
Depending on the padding (size, shape, position) you can get numb hands/fingers very fast.
I had one pair that gave me numb fingers within minutes of riding, where as a other pair i could ride 100km without any issues.
One if you're new to cycling is gripping the hoods or grips too tightly. Even after a year of riding I still need to tell myself to not hold it too tight.
When are you going to do a bike fit for mtb and the pitfalls about fitting for them (seeing that you are an avid mtber
@EverythingsBeenDone as James reads the comments 😅, bar width, i ride my “road bike” with 40cm handlebar but for gravel, CX and XC, I ride a 42cm (flared) because of control but, to be good, I shortened the stem, 90 instead on 100mm. Basically, the hypotenuse between the saddle center (fabric scoop on both) and the hoods (rival on both) is the same.
What does James think? 😅
I used to get numb hands on my last bike - a gravel bike with 44cm bars. I sold it and bought a Specialized Roubaix, which immediately fixed the problem. I always put it down to the future shock suspension, however I did also put 40cm bars on it. Perhaps the bars were more of a factor?
Of all my bikes the only one I get numb hands on is my Wahoo Kickr Bike. It starts to come on gradually but after an hour it’s severe enough that it’s a struggle to change gear. In all other regards the bike is comfortable but I’ll have to work through this list to see if I can solve it
You can pop into your local bike store for the advice and maybe adding something to your bike.
No more cade media thing?
I like James so no worries at all!!
And the question now is have wrongly fitted anyone?
And what does it take to teach a person in bike fitting more or less to your level from scratch?
What is the issue Sir. James when having elbow pain while riding my RB?, ❤️🇵🇭
i went for shorter crans and so far 3 months in it feels better , tho only went from 175crnks down to 170
I solved my pedal issue with flat MTB pedals, now I never have a single moment of pain because I can place my foot wherever it feels comfortable
I've thrown a set of 3" Bucklos branded riser bars on my 29r to see if it helps. Bike now looks like a BMX cruiser, but that's fine with me. Haven't tested it yet. but I'm confident it will make a big difference. This video popped up after I did this, which is rather interesting. Maybe AI has been spying on me again!
Great video as always brother.
I'm pretty sure my stem is too long, even that is a 90mm.
BTW Im riding a Triban RC120 from Decatlhon, size L.
I'm 1.87cm and Im starting to think she's too long for me.
Being from a BMX background,I love short stems. They offer better control also because the front end is less twitchy.
I only get numbness in my left hand! Why would that be?
Font of knowledge 👌
Is there any difference with a 0mm setback seatpost than 20mm setback seatpost, I feel more comfortable with the 0 rather than the 20mm.
Too much upper body weight without the core strength to support it is a factor. Back in my racing days when I weighed 150 pounds soaking wet, I had no problems with numb hands and a slammed stem. Not so much at age 70 and 40 pounds heavier (most of it from my homebrewing hobby and a desk job).
How do you make a saddle level flat when it has a slope on the back f the saddle and a bit in the nose?
Can you please make a video about numb toes? I am struggeling for years, spent 1000s on shoes, bike fits, pedals, cranks, insoles etc. and I cant find a solution
Check your cleat fore aft. If the saddle is too far back and then you are over extending and the only thing you feel is toe pain. It could also be that the shape of your sadde is too flat and your legs do not come straight down.
@@ShadowzKiller I played arround with every setting. I also tried several saddles. I might try a different bike fitter this spring.
@ Sounds like a good idea. I think that maybe your toes move too much when you apply force. This could mean that your toe movement inside in the shoe is caused by lack of arch support, the shape of the itself, or the size of the shoe. If the shoe is also too stiff, this can cause problems for some people as well.
If the handlebar is too high, then it can also cause the same problem!
I have noticed that on rounded seats I have problems with pain in my hands, while on flat seats I don't
I can't fit four fingers inside the levers when riding on the hoods. I have to insert only three fingers and keep my pinkies straight. After two hours my pinkies are numb from the pressure on the .drops. Not a big deal I can wiggle them every five or ten minutes but it is annoying. I wish longer brakes were available or they had some sort of extender. It just feels better with four fingers gripping the hoods. Seems to put less pressure on my palms. (I use Shimano Ultegra. Maybe Sram x brake levers have more room?)
I would like to know the reasoning behind the wider stance for reducing weight on the front ? Did i missed it ?
Probably similar reason as arch support reducing saddle pressure. Body supporting itself better from the bottom up.
I’d like to know why it makes a difference too! All I know is it just does!
I believe it is due to a wider base of support, albeit maybe only millimetres, providing better bracing and balance = stability. Might not even be acknowledged consciously, but the brain knows what it likes and if it perceives extra stability then you use your feet more and hands less to support yourself.
That's my 2c worth anyway, based on much experimentation on myself, some anatomy and biomechanics at uni and some bike fitting courses. I started using the Assioma Duo Shi axles about two years ago and they've been fantastic in helping with a few issues.
I think it has to do with being better planted. Less iffy to pedal = Less rocking of weight from front and back. Removes any unnecessary movement on the pedal stroke that could cause weight shifting in all directions.
@@Bikefitjames thanks for the reply ! Sadly I had to buy some favero assioma to try to widen my stance because I have big hips. 😂 can’t wait to receive my expensive pedal extender 😂
I need lots of help - numb hands, numb feet, saddle discomfort. Can you recommend a fitter in the US (Denver CO) that has training/expertise similar to you? Thank you!
GRX levers solved my problems
Interesting video. Surprised lever position didnt come into it. I only suffer numbness 8n the smallest two fingers of the right hand after tweaking bar position and lever hight. The idea of bsrs down hoods up created a hammock so i was getting no support in the middle of the hand. I now have the bsr and lever creating a level surface. Both angle up slightly. As im still getting some numbness it might be time to come up a couple more degrees.
@steveedwards5280 you can also use very thin medium density foam under the rubber grip on the hoods to alter the shape and surface height. Essentially, customise the hood to give you a precise fit for your hand and potentially improve wrist angle.
@@jasonhurst2491 Shorter cranks, wider saddle and heavy heads contribute to hand numbness and not the shifters orientation, bar tape, stiffness of the handlebar and stem , this has to be the funniest video i have watched in a while, there is no stopping them from putting anything out there
This microphone is much better
Hi James! Lake silently released CX239 and I ordered it yesterday. What's your opinion on it? Look like the most of features remain the same as CX238.
Supposedly it’s the same as the 238 with a revised tongue and tighter heel cup, although after the CX333 debacle I’m reserving judgement!
Question: if your saddle slopes up at the back (like the Giant Approach saddle) do you put on a book or something flat and then level it out? (so it is level overall)
@keessonnema I just had a look at that saddle on the Giant website. The rear is designed to be higher than the centre and front to provide support to your sit bones. Also helps to locate you on the saddle by acting as a bit of a shelf. Check the website for instructions as each manufacturer should tell you what their definition of 'level' is. For that saddle I'd say that having the rails horizontal means the saddle is level. The side view image I saw on their website was a very good example of what I expect 'level' looks like.
@@jasonhurst2491 I've been tinkering with it a few times, but level as in the whole thing definitely isn't great, so I think you're right about the rails being the best way to tell if it's level.
@keessonnema I have a bike fitting business in Australia and for similar shaped saddles that I sell, I'd either use the rails as a guide or have the front two thirds of the saddle sloping almost imperceptibly downward. Then maybe tilt up half a degree at a time if you felt like you were moving or tipping forward when pedaling. Of course saddle height and reach to the bars also need to be considered if you feel like you need to brace of shift when pedaling.
@ Yeah I will get a bikefit next month, but I've been fiddling with the saddle for a while, got the height and fore/aft almost nailed where I feel comfortable, but still a bit of weight on the hands, so I guess I have to move it back just a tad and thus lower it a little aswell. I'll try it still before I get the fit
does road buzz cause numb hands? feels like it to me.
Definitely. I get numb hands in the UK but not so much when riding on smooth European roads
Seriously thought you'd had ya nails done for a moment then
do you have any idea why i get pain on the lower outside of my left foot only? i've had a cheap bike fit, changed shoes once and added arch support but cannot fix it. is it a shoe issue and if so how can i find one without this issue? i only get this pain from pedalling
Ha! Brilliant 🇬🇧🙌
I only get numb in left hand is this common or what?
@jamespark3944 if you're sitting to the left of the saddle and/or dropping your left hip as you pedal then you'll probably be hammering your left hand at each pedal stroke as you try to support yourself and maintain some stability with your hands. I've seen it and resolved it with one of my bike fit clients. Whether it's saddle too high, reach too long, leg length difference, unstable feet or whatever, anything that destabilises you usually causes you to instinctively use your hands for greater support to try and regain stability. It is predominantly on one side then the hand on that side does most of the work and suffers as a result of the extra weight/pressure.
How does #1 (too-wide bars) apply to a mountain bike?
I have a similar question with straight handlebars. Is the drop style just better because less wrist twist?
Forget about the MTB, most gravel bikes come with wider handlebars , same shifters and drops like a road bike , sure the position is uncomfortable if bikes are too wide or too short but they translates in more than just hands numbness
@@edithmaverickfolger4014 I find drop bars far worse. Straight bar on MTB or light rise on fixie never caused issue on my hands. But, then, more kilometers are eaten with drop bar ones.
@ Why "forget about the MTB"? I mean, your point may be valid, but it still doesn't come close to answering my question.
@ I think Livonia just was saying they had the same question you posed about mountain bikes about gravel bikes with wide bars. Reflecting on this further perhaps the answer is since mountain bikes have a more upright position with less weight being supported on the hands, the problem isn't as serious as with a road bike. That answer doesn't help me, or gravel bike riders much though because we might be a bit more upright but still have a good portion of weight on our hands.
Is there any solution for a bike with peculiar crank arm design? a fat bike with 30mm and 40mm offsets; left and right are different. Both bike and crank brands refuse to supply shorter cranks. Maybe there's a place to order custom cranks?
Interestingly enough, while my bike came with 170, the same bike in belt drive is designed with 180mm cranks!! and they still recommend it for riders as short as 155cm (5'1")!
@SonnyDarvish 5Dev do really nice offroad cranks in a huge range of sizes and styles. They are VERY expensive though. As for the offset issue, is there any room on the crank axle for spacer to move one crank out more (assuming the other can't come in more)? Or longer pedal axle on the 30mm offset side?
Kept getting a really numb left hand, turned out it was cubital tunnel syndrome and had to go under the knife. The reason turned out to being 50 years old!
C'mon man!!! i wanted to take this seriously but these reasons apply to any problems and discomfort, hands, back, shoulders ETC , Short cranks????
Would angle of hoods also not be a factor?
Not really, only if you point them inwards a lot, so the wrists are at a weird angle I think.
@@keessonnema Sorry, I meant like angled forwards or backwards, rather than inwards. So the hands aren't naturally inline with forearms.
@ Other than wrist pain for overextending the wrist, or pointing the wrists upwards because the hoods are so far up, I don't think numb hands can come from that.
@JohnSmith-ox7xc it can be if the hood angle is way off relative to the natural position of the wrist. Eg, cocking the wrist excessively up or down. I would expect you'd notice the discomfort in your hands though before the numbness set in. In addition to adjusting lever position you can make small adjustments to bar rotation if the hoods already make a comfortable line/join with the bars that you don't want to change. Be careful of too much rotation though if you use the drops as it can affect hand comfort in the drops as well as ability to reach the levers.
You can also customise hood shape and height to some degree using very thin pieces of medium density foam and experimenting with shape and number of layers under the rubber grip. I do this on my bike and have recommended it to clients.
Lastly, I have my hoods angled inward very slightly and find it more comfortable. Everyone is different, but typically your wrists will rotate inward slightly when your arms are extended so mirroring that angle of inward rotation with the hoods can be more comfortable for some people.
Let's see which have applied to me with numb hands and achy shoulder. I'm 5'10" with broad shoulders riding a 56cm gravel bike with 44cm wide bars, a short nose saddle that's maybe too high, maybe too far forward and overall the reach feels too long. Also bad posture. Also got a large noggin.
Honestly man you've helped a lot in the last 2 years. I've lowered the saddle, increased the setback to balance my weight behind the seat post, got rx8 shoes that are snug and put the cleat almost all the way back, and I've greatly improved my posture by not slouching, keeping a more aero position, trying to keep my arms bend, engaging my core. And I've repositioned my hoods and bars in every possible configuration no less than twice. I've read a number of people that ride a Jamis renegade s2 that at around my height, some would prefer a 54 so it's possible its too big and I'm running a 80mm stem so I don't think a 70mm stem is feasible for gravel.
I'm considering a whisky spano carbon bar for the progressive flare, to keep the hoods naturally straight but have wider drops for gravel descents but really considering 42 vs 44 for ya know said reasons above. Also reduces reach from to 68.
When setting up new bars do you prefer the hoods be completely flat off the bars and extended out further or is it acceptable for the bars to slightly dive and hoods slightly rise, to achieve that a tiny bit of reduced reach?
is there a fitter in Taiwan that can help me hah
Reason 9: handlebars too high and/or too close.
I only get it in my right hand when my heart rate gets high
Sounds like a happy heart going into becoming broken. 😅
On a serious note, for people who don't know, that's one of symptom of stroke.
@lancewatson2839 Dude, see a cardiologist! If it's not an issue in the heart or veins and arteries immediately around the heart they may refer you to a vascular specialist. If it only occurs on the bike it may be some form of vascular occlusion that occurs due to pressure on your hands. If it occurs off the bike as well then make that appointment ASAP
@@jasonhurst2491 it only happens on the bike
What is in your experience common range of effective seat tube angle? And I am also curious why smaller sizes of frames have typically steeper seat tube? I particularly struggle with that as I am just 170 cm tall and I have probably longer than average femur for my height. Even on bikes with 73.5 deg seat tube I have to push saddle as far as possible and it still does not feel enough. Moreover, finding road or gravel bike with slacker seat tube seems like mission impossible.
"Typically 44cm bars are too wide" *blushes as he looks at his 46cm gravel bars*
I haven't watched it yet, but can I guess at "saddle height"..? 😉
I HAD NUMB HANDS ON MY COLNAGO C60 DREAM BIKE, MANY YEARS AGO, SO GOT ANOTHER BIKE-FIT!
JAMES AT CYCLING POSITION IN BRISTOL IMMEDIATELY SAW THE PROBLEM, AS BIKE BEING TOO BIG, WITH TOO LONG STEM,
AND TOO WIDE BARS!
I WAS TOLD THE WRONG FRAME SIZE BY FIVE OFFICIAL COLNAGO DEALERS, WITH ONE HAVING OVER 40 YEARS EXPERIENCE!
I HAD THE BARS AND STEM CHANGED TO 38CM BARS & 80MM STEM, BUT 80MM STEM LOOKED A BIT SILLY, SO I SOLD THE BIKE,
AND GOT A RIGHT SIZE C64!
IT LOOK'S AMAZING WITH THE NEWER CAMPAGNOLO 12-SPEED SUPER RECORD EPS DISC/WTO ULTRA WHEELS, ETC!
I ALSO HAVE A CUSTOM ORANGE BIANCHI SPECIALISSIMA, RIM BRAKE WHICH I HAVE IN THEIR RIGHT SIZE FRAME WITH THE
DURA-ACE REMOVED, AND REPLACED WITH 12-SPEED CAMPAGNOLO SUPER RECORD EPS/WTO WHEELS, ETC!
BOTH BIKES HAVE ENVE CARBON BAR & STEMS WHICH LOOK AMAZING!
There is no such thing as perfect position, any seasoned rider who riders a variety of bikes and terrain needs to learn how to adjust position and how everything works on the bike , paying $$$$$ for a perfect fit done in a studio on a stationary bike is silly , sure is helpful for the new riders or the clueless ones but there is no way that investment is worth it unless you learn how to do it yourself. I own few bikes , Caad, Tommasini steel, RITTE CARBON, Cervelo TT, Ritchey steel gravel , MTB and a Zullo fixie. The geometry and fit is totally different betwokn these bikes. Cannondale is a bike I use for training and don’t mess with it much, Tommasini is a classic and don’t mess with it much but the other bikes I change saddles, stem, wheels and tires all the time depending on the event I am doing. Welcome your thoughts
Forget about the short cranks, people with big heads need more saddle back???? how about heavy helmet? don't we have to compensate for extra weight from now on? buy a heavy helmet? move your saddle back, was this video suppose to be funny?
There's a whole other list away from bikefit solutions,a list of bad habits,habits that you can't bikefit your way out of.